Chef Kyle Connaughton’s forthcoming dining experience has been touted as one of the nation’s most important restaurant openings of 2016. Connaughton and his wife, Katina, have been preparing for the opening for more than a year, and The Wall Street Journal and national food blog Eater have called them culinary visionaries.
Reservations are available here, and pre-paid tickets are required. The cost of the late fall and early winter dining experiences are $296 per person.
Since it opened three years ago, the Graton Resort and Casino has brought a taste of Las Vegas to Sonoma, offering a sea of slot machines, table games, stylish restaurants, bars and event space — but no accommodations.
Rendering of guest room suite at Graton Resort & Casino Hotel in Rohnert Park.
That changes Nov. 15 with the opening of the casino’s $175 million hotel near Rohnert Park, including 200 upscale rooms, a resort-style pool, fitness center, spa and salon.
Rendering of guest room suite at Graton Resort & Casino Hotel in Rohnert Park.
The six-story hotel, with an expansive ballroom for concerts and conventions, essentially doubles the resort’s size and boosts its bid to compete as an overnight Wine Country destination, with Vegas flair.
“We’re going to do some world-class pampering,” said Joe Hasson, the casino’s vice president and general manager.
Gamblers who participate in the casino’s four-tier loyalty program, Graton Rewards, can expect the expansion to offer points toward hotel perks, including free and discounted rooms.
Premium Double Room Bathroom at the Graton Resort & Casino Hotel in Rohnert Park. (Photo Courtesy: Graton Resort & Casino)
The luxurious pool area comes with amenities standard on the Strip: a bar, cabanas and look for online casino at Svenskkasinon lounge chairs in the water. Other elements will remain unique to Sonoma, however, including a design and color palette Hasson said was meant to be reflective of the area’s scenic beauty.
The Graton Resort & Casino’s six-story luxury hotel, in Rohnert Park. (Photo by Christopher Chung)
This being Wine Country, hotel guests can also anticipate a taste of the area’s finest inside their rooms: Hasson said “the region’s terrific liquids” will find their way to the mini bars.
Room rates start at $399 for weekdays and $499 for weekends, plus taxes and fees. A stay at one of Las Vegas’ luxury resorts can go for far less, but Hasson said demand for the rooms has been strong, driving prices high and keeping them there.
Graton Resort & Casino, 288 Golf Course Drive W., Rohnert Park, 707-588-7100, gratonresortcasino.com
The view from a 2,600 square-foot luxury suite on the top floor of the Graton Resort & Casino’s new hotel, in Rohnert Park. (Photo by Christopher Chung)
News that G&G Markets is being sold to Safeway hit me like a ton of bricks. I just didn’t see that one coming, and it’s bad news for Sonoma County for a lot of reasons — from G & G’s ongoing community involvement and financial generosity for local organizations to its willingness to give fledgling local producers space on the shelves.
The sale won’t be finalized until the end of the year, but the latter is what has me especially concerned.
Since I was a teen visiting my grandma in Santa Rosa, G&G was the place you went when you needed something unusual or hard to find. In the 1980s, that meant rarities like pickled ginger or rice noodles. Later we went for the Pasta King’s famous pesto sauce or good deli meat. More recently, it was my go-to for everything from small-production butter and arrowroot powder to holiday crab, shrimp chips and local cheeses.
It’s heaven to walk the aisles, peering at cans of Heinz spotted dick, bottles of Mexican sodas and packages of dried fish, mushrooms and unidentifiable Asian specialties. During baking season, I can count on finding just about any kind of flour, from coconut to rice, and then grabbing a box of fried rice and pork to keep me cooking. Not to mention their annual Christmas town display, something that delighted both young and old.
But every time I went, I also found dozens of little local producers just starting production. Unlike Whole Foods or Safeway, which have a fairly intensive vetting process, or Costco, which demands massive amounts of product to go on its shelves, G & G (along with Pacific Market and Oliver’s Markets) is the Sonoma County food kick starter where you can talk to a human about your idea, possibly even an owner. They have hosted live feeds of John Ash’s Good Food Hour and cooking lessons with chefs like Josh Silvers.
I admit that I’m also part of the problem. I don’t faithfully shop at G&G, usually preferring the convenience and cost of my nearby Safeway. For specialty items, I make the trek from my house to G & G or Oliver’s Markets, but for daily staples like toilet paper, milk and ice cream, proximity rules the day. I suspect many others do the same.
Acquisition of local markets seems to be accelerating. Bay Area Andronico’s supermarkets also announced this week their sale to Safeway, meaning even fewer local grocers to support local producers.
And I get it. Safeway isn’t in the business of supporting community purveyors. Its buyers make attempts, and as a regular Safeway shopper I love seeing things like Bella Rosa Coffee, Clover dairy products and Franco-American bread in my basket. But these boutique small producers are primarily loss-leaders that represent good will. Safeway can make far more money on its house brands and mass-produced consumables from companies like Frito-Lay and General Mills than it can from small batch spaghetti sauce made in Sonoma.
That’s the reality we’re living in, where small grocers get snapped up by bigger grocers, where small production companies get snapped up by international conglomerates, and where we all want chicken that costs 99 cents a pound.
So farewell to G & G. Sonoma County won’t be the same without you.
There’s a bite to the air in the mornings now, a turning of seasons that brings to mind cozy gatherings and holiday feasts. And this year, unlike last, it appears there will be fresh, succulent Dungeness crab on the table as the centerpiece of the celebration.
In Bodega Bay, the fishing fleet has been readying for the Nov. 15 opener, with hopes pinned on hauling in tons of the delectable crustaceans from Thanksgiving through the new year and beyond.
That wasn’t the case last year, after an unprecedented, four-and-a-half-month delay kept boats tied at the docks, the harvest suspended over health concerns raised by a massive toxic algae bloom off California.
This year, cooler water and promising test results are buoying expectations for a bountiful haul of Dungeness in California ports.
At Fisherman’s Cove, enjoy a crab sandwich with some local crafts beer at on of the communal tables overlooking the bay. (yelp.com)
Go to Bodega Bay and see the state’s $60 million crab fishery in action: Crab boats coming and going, stacked high with the big metal traps, or pots, used in the catch. You can buy your crab there at one of several outlets, or at your local grocer or fishmonger.
“Being in Sonoma County, we are spoiled with the best crab on the planet,” said Todd Davis, meat and seafood coordinator for Oliver’s Markets. “When our Dungeness locally is running, it’s the best out there. Nothing compares.”
If you’re really in the mood, grab an outdoor table at Spud Point Crab Co or Fisherman’s Cove. and feast on a crab-filled menu in sight of the working men and women who make it all possible.
“They’re kind of excited,” said Lorne Edwards, president of the Bodega Bay Fisherman’s Marketing Association.
Jayme Powers, owner of SIGH bubble lounge in Sonoma. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
If there’s one thing Jayme Powers wants wine drinkers to know, it’s that Champagne and other sparkling wines are for every day — not just special occasions. But as the holiday season approaches, no one can deny that they become top of mind.
Jayme Powers, owner of SIGH bubble lounge in Sonoma. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
Powers, owner of SIGH bubble lounge in Sonoma, has long loved sparkling wine. The title on her business card is bubble boss, her customers are bubbleheads, and her tasting room offers carefully selected choices from around the world.
So, boss, what to serve for the holidays?
“If you’re looking for something that’s more approachable, to drink on a daily basis, try the Anna de Codorniu Brut Rosé ($22) from Spain,” she said. “Its packaging is eye-catching, too.
“For the middle price range, I suggest Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs ($48). It’s a delicious, Pinot Noir-driven sparkling wine from one of the most historic wineries in Napa Valley.”
To impress even the most discerning wine connoisseur, Powers recommends the Lelarge Pugeot Quintessence ($72), from a small Champagne winery in France that grows its own grapes. “It’s from one of my favorite producers, and it isn’t found in most stores,” she said.
To dress up the glass a little more, “Add a little pomegranate juice and float a few seeds.”
SIGH offers fizz by tasting flight, glass and bottle. Cheese plates and beer “for the people who don’t like sparkling wines” are also available.
29 E. Napa St., Suite C, Sonoma, 707-996-2444, sighsonoma.com
After a trip to Spain, restaurateurs Mark and Terri Stark decided to bring the concept of true Spanish tapas to Sonoma County, opening Bravas bar de Tapas in late 2012.
Now well-established in the Healdsburg restaurant scene, the expansive patio is a year-round draw for Sangria, cider, wine and cocktails with served with bites of paper-thin Iberico ham and Manchego cheese, tuna belly salad, mushroom escabeche, bacon-wrapped dates with blue cheese and Marcona almonds.
The tapas menu is expansive, so come hungry.
Spanish for “cover”, tapas originally referred to slices of bread, meat and cheese served atop a glass of wine or sherry to keep the flies out of your cocktail (or so the legend goes).
Now it’s anything served on a saucer-sized plate — from sushi to nachos. And folks, that ain’t tapas.
At Bravas, it is best to order a few cold tapas and a few warm, along with bocadillos (or little sandwiches). That’s the whole point, sharing and tasting with your fellow eaters. We love roasted red beets with cinnamon, goat cheese toast, duck meatballs, long-cooked pork cheeks, foie gras with orange marmalade and the required Patatas Bravas–fried potatoes with spicy tomato sauce and aioli.
Heartier dishes cooked on a flat griddle called a plancha include Monterey Calamari with lemon ($10.50), fresh Gulf prawns ($15), skirt steak with red onion marmalade, pimenton chicken thighs and smother pork riblets.
Family-style plates — appropriate for several eaters –include a whole crispy skin Mt. Lassen Trout ($32), Tomahawk coffee-crusted certified Angus beef ($72) and fried chicken with mumbo sauce ($28)
It’s a menu filled with brassy, bold flavors that do the cha-cha through your mouth and leave no question that you’ll need a breath mint or two before getting familiar with friends or co-workers. In a good way.
A departure from the usual Wine Country lineup, the basic building blocks of the menu (shrimp, pig ears, fried duck eggs, Dungeness crab, sardines, skirt steak, seafood ceviche) are ingredients the Starks have a proven track record of cooking to perfection at their other restaurants (Willi’s Wine Bar, Willi’s Seafood, Monti’s, Stark’s Steak and Seafood and Bird and Bottle).
Faction Brewery beer sampler. (Photo by Tim Vallery)
Faction Brewery beer sampler. (Photo by Tim Vallery)
This Saturday, The NorCal Beer Geeks Festival returns to Petaluma for its third consecutive year, serving up beers from 20+ Northern California breweries and live music. This is a great opportunity to taste new brews while supporting a good cause – proceeds from the event will be donated to Sonoma County Vet Connect, a Veterans helping Veterans nonprofit organization.
Here are 5 reasons why you should spend your Saturday afternoon with the NorCal Beer Geeks:
Faction Brewery in Alameda brews an IPA just for the Norcal Beer Geeks. The NorCal Beer Geeks IPA will only be available at Faction Brewery after the event.
Faction Brewery beer sampler. (Photo by Tim Vallery)
The Pat Jordan Band is playing live, nuff said. For those of you who know Pat Jordan, you’ll understand. For those who don’t: Pat Jordan is amazing, energetic and humorous; he immediately wins the crowd over and steals the show. His sound is electrifying; it’s one of a kind.
Pat Jordan Band playing at the Trione Halloween event. (Photo by Tim Vallery)
The folks from Sacramento’s New Glory will be at the event. The Sacramento beer scene is exploding with unique, well made beers and New Glory is among the top producers in town. On Saturday, they’re coming in hot with their Farmhouse French Saison and Greenergy Double IPA.
New Glory beer sampler.
There will be plenty of local flavor:Bear Republic will be bringing their popular Racer X IPA and their Great American Beer Festival silver medal winner: Pace Car Racer. Thousands of beers from breweries all over the US are entered into the GABF each year and the Pace Car Racer was the only Sonoma County beer to take home a medal. Cooperage Brewing never disappoints. Expect something hop forward, clean, and cleverly named like the “Curt Don’t Hurt” and “Trimcoe IPA”. St. Florian’s is keggin up “Fresh Hop on the Engine” as well as some other fun surprises.
Ryan, the bar manager at Bear Republic pub pouring beers for the locals. (Photo by Tim Vallery)
Proceeds from the event will be donated to Vet Connect. The non profit assists veterans in locating the services they have earned during their military service. 100 percent of proceeds from raffle tickets will go to the non-profit; a portion of event proceeds will go directly to the organization.
Sonoma County Vet Connect volunteer veterans. (Photo courtesy of Sonoma County Vet Connect Facebook)
NorCal Beer Geeks Festival
When: Saturday, November 5, 2016 1:30-5:00 PM
Where: Petaluma Veterans Building, 1094 Petaluma Boulevard South, Petaluma, CA 94952
Tickets: Tickets are $20-$45 per person. General admission includes unlimited beer tastings, a tasting glass and an entry into the raffle. Food is available for purchase. VIP ticket holders are granted one hour early access to the event. Buy your tickets here
It’s not just the ladies who enjoy a getaway weekend with their friends – guys do, too. Whether it’s reconnecting with college comrades, buddies who’ve moved, or celebrating a milestone like a promotion or engagement, it’s always a treat to get together with those who know you best.
Here are three hotels in Sonoma County to book when it’s time to catch up:
Bodega Bay Lodge – Bodega Bay
Bodega Bay Lodge. (Image courtesy of Bodega Bay Lodge)
Overlooking the Pacific Ocean, the Bodega Bay Lodge is a great destination for guys who enjoy ocean views, deep sea fishing, and a good game of golf.
View of the beach. (Image courtesy of Bodega Bay Lodge)
The Bodega Bay coastline is rugged and ready for some on-shore adventure: see local fisherman getting the catch of the day, watch surfers angle for an incoming wave – maybe even catch sight of a whale or two. This is the area where Alfred Hitchcock filmed ‘The Birds’ – the drama definitely remains in the landscape.
Room at the Bodega Bay Lodge. (Image courtesy of the Bodega Bay Lodge)
Rooms: The rooms at the Bodega Bay Lodge create a comfortable spot for some downtime – nothing beats being able to relax by a fireplace after a day of sea air activities.
The lobby at Bodega Bay Lodge.
The spacious lodge lobby comes with a warming fireplace, deep and comfortable couches and leather armchairs. This is a good place to start your day – or end it, with a glass of whiskey in hand.
The course at the Links at Bodega Harbour. (Image courtesy of The Links at Bodega Harbour)
Adventure: Start your day with a round of golf at The Links at Bodega Harbour, take in the views and chat between swings.
Boats parade by the Fisherman Festival out of Bodega Harbor for the Blessing of the Fleet in April. (Photo by Crista Jeremiason)
If fishing is more your game, visit Nor Cal Fishing Adventures. This Bodega Bay business offers a wide array of boats to charter for the day.
Heated pool at Bodega Bay Lodge. (Image courtesy of the Bodega Bay Lodge)
Relax: If you’re a bit sore after your daytime adventures, the pool, whirlpool and sauna at the lodge are available from 7:30am – 11:00pm.
Drakes Sonoma Coast Kitchen chef Jeffrey Reilly crab cioppino. (Photo by Christopher Chung)
Food:Drakes Sonoma Coast Kitchen, formerly The Duck Club, is located at the Bodega Bay Lodge and is known for serving up the freshest local food; much of the seafood is caught in Bodega Bay. One of the added services the restaurant provides is a to-go box lunch to take on any adventure you may be heading off to for the day. Or try the clam chowder at Spud Point Crab Company, or the oysters and crab sandwich at Fisherman’s Cove.
At Fisherman’s Cove, enjoy a crab sandwich with some local crafts beer at one of the communal tables overlooking the bay. (yelp.com)
Reserve your epic guys weekend: Bodega Bay Lodge 103 CA-1, Bodega Bay, CA 94923, (707) 875-3525. bodegabaylodge.com
Farmhouse Inn – Forestville
Farmhouse Inn. (Image courtesy of the Farmhouse Inn)
If countryside is more your style than seaside, The Farmhouse Inn in Forestville will hit the spot. This inn, opened in 2001, features just the right balance of rustic and refined for gentlemen who like the outdoors, but still appreciate amenities like jetted tubs – and high thread count sheets.
Patio outside a Barn Room.(Image courtesy of the Farmhouse Inn)
Rooms: The rooms at the Farmhouse Inn have feather beds with European linens and down comforters, but the real draw is being able to sit outside and watch the game on a flat screen TV while sipping on some local craft beer.
Spa at the Farmhouse Inn.
Relax: Fellas, enjoying a spa treatment isn’t just for the ladies. The Spa at the Farmhouse Inn features “A Man’s Turn” 90-minute treatment that includes an extremity massage with hot towel compresses as well as a steamy hot towel facial experience with products designed for a man’s skin. To follow up the treatment, you’ll receive a personalized DIY shave kit to take home. Go ahead – enjoy.
Adventure: Explore the local landscape the way author Jack London did, on horseback. Triple Creek Horse Outfit in Glen Ellen offers tours of Jack London State Historic Park, with riding trails through Jack’s Beauty Ranch, across oak woodlands and under shady groves. See the ruins of Wolf House, Jack and wife Charmian’s dream home which burned down the day before they were to occupy it in 1913; visit London’s boulder gravesite, writing cottage, and Charmian’s House of Happy Walls. At tour’s end, enjoy a wine tasting at neighboring Benziger Family Winery, included in the tour.
Or you could just spend the day floating down the Russian River…
People float down the Russian River by various methods of transport towards Johnson’s Beach in Guerneville. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
Food: Farmhouse Inn houses an upscale, but surprisingly low-key, Michelin-starred restaurant. The ambiance is sophisticated yet cozy, the Cal-French cuisine delicious yet unpretentious, the decor chic and the service snappy. Try the Snake River Farms Beef: pan-seared New York strip loin, with potato-spinach pie, corn pudding, bluefoot mushroom, and blistered sungolds.
Steaks coming up at Backyard in Forestville.
For a mid-range option, check out Backyard in Forestville. The chefs at this popular downtown restaurant source the menu from their own backyard: meats from local ranchers, fish from local fishermen, fruit from local orchards, vegetables from local farms, wine and beer from local producers. Be sure to try the Buttermilk Onion Rings first with their signature hot sauce. You won’t regret it.
Reserve your epic guys weekend: Farmhouse Inn, 7871 River Rd, Forestville, CA 95436, (707) 887-3300. www.farmhouseinn.com
Northwood Lodge & Resort – Monte Rio
Pool at Northwood Lodge. (Image courtesy of Northwood Lodge & Resort)
Sometimes, when you get together with the guys, you don’t care about spa treatments or Michelin stars…you just want to go to a lodge, play some golf, and have a few beers (or nice Cabernet). The Northwood Lodge knows this, and they don’t veer too far from the original idea of a lodge being simply a place to rest your head after a day of doing more exciting things, like golfing, hiking, kayaking, or fishing.
Room: The rooms are not fancy, but nicely appointed. If you’re traveling with a group, you could even reserve the ‘Two Double Bed Rooms, Bunk Beds’ special that has space for up to 6 people. This can save everyone plenty of money for the golf club and drinks at the Northwood Restaurant – happy hour starts at 3pm, and if you’re in the mood, you can usually catch some live music in the evening.
Amenities: If you’d like to spend an afternoon barbecuing with your buddies, there’s an outdoor barbecue and picnic facilities for guests to use. If you’re sore after an afternoon of golf, a few laps in the swimming pool might do the trick.
Kayakers on the Russian River. (Photo by Beth Schlanker)
Adventure: Looking to pump up the adrenaline? Rent all the equipment you need for river rafting, stand up paddle boarding and kayaking on the Russian River at Rubicon Adventures, in nearby Forestville. Rubicon also has friendly and skilled tour guides.
Northwood Golf Club course. (Image courtesy of Northwood Golf Club)
For a little less adventurous – and more relaxing – day, head to Northwood Golf Course. This course in the Monte Rio redwoods was designed in 1928 by golf architect Dr. Alister MacKenzie, and has been rated by Golf Magazine as one of the top five MacKenzie courses in the world. Even with such a pedigreed background, you can choose from an array of tee times that won’t break the bank.
Craving a chowder? Seaside Metal in Guerneville serves up superb seafood. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
Food: Make next-door neighbor Guerneville your dining destination. This eclectic and hip town serves up a variety of top-notch restaurants, including California cuisine bistro Boon Eat + Drink and seafood and raw oyster bar Seaside Metal.
If you’d prefer to stay in Monte Rio, the Village Inn is a traditional restaurant on the Russian River worth a visit. Scenes from the 1942 musical film “Holiday Inn,” starring Bing Crosby and Fred Astaire, were filmed here (with a little help from some artificial snow). When dining at the Inn, experience the glamour of its Hollywood past while enjoying “real food” grown by the community’s finest farmers to the accompaniment of Sonoma County wines.
Reserve your epic guys weekend now: Northwood Lodge & Resort 19455 Highway 116, Monte Rio, CA 95462, (877) 865-1655. northwood-lodge.com
Lengua tacos at La Texanita in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Put down the burrito and just say no to the chimichanga. Here in Sonoma County, taqueria fare is as familiar as pizza or burgers, but have you really delved deeper into Latin cuisine?
Way beyond tamales and tacos is a world of authentic flavors from the unique regions of Mexico, Central America, South America and the Caribbean.
Each has evolved from the Spanish mother cuisine, an eclectic collection of flavors from Europe, Africa and the Middle East. But these Latin siblings have each incorporated indigenous ingredients and preparations with the food traditions of settlers, colonizers and slaves, creating an entirely new culinary canon.
So, for anyone who’s wanted to go beyond everyday fare and fully experience the exotic, enticing flavors of Latin culture, we’ve collected a few of our favorite dishes to get you started, or maybe just expand the borders of your palate.
Sazon Santa Rosa, Ceviche Mixto (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
PERUVIAN
Ceviche: If you like sushi, you’ll love ceviche. Chunks of raw tilapia or tuna is “cooked” in lime juice and salt, served cold, often with other seafood (prawns, clams, squid) and a side of Cuzco corn, sweet potato, onion and “Leche de Tigre,” the deliciously sour marinating liquid. Unlike Mexican ceviches which tend to have jalapeño and smaller dices of fish, we love the clean, light flavor of the Peruvian-style. Sazon Peruvian Cuisine, 1129 Sebastopol Rd., Santa Rosa, 707-523-4346.
Causa Colonial: Mashed yellow potatoes are another staple of Peruvian cuisine. Served cold with fried octopus on top and a crave-worthy sauce made with Aji amarillo chiles, cheese and a small slice of Heaven. Quinua Cocina Peruana, 500 Petaluma Blvd. South, Petaluma, 707-981-7359.
Quinua Cocina Peruana Causa Colonial (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
CUBAN
Picadillo: Because Cuban cooking can be rare on the West Coast, it’s worth seeking out. A mix of Spanish, African, Caribbean and even Middle Eastern influences, richly spiced adobo, mojo and chimichurri sauces are more about flavor (citrus, chiles, garlic) than heat. While traditional roasted pork and beef are favorites, less well-known is picadillo, a savory ground beef entree with onions, peppers, olives, wine and tomato sauce. Served with rice and sweet plantains, it’s a homey, Sunday afternoon kind of meal to be savored rather than devoured. Rumba Cuban Kitchen, 8750 Old Redwood Hwy., Windsor, 707-687-5632.
Picadillos at Rumba Cuban Kitchen in Windsor, (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
PUERTO RICAN
A similar style of Caribbean cuisine, though with its own unique personality, is Puerto Rican, which also heavily depends on rice, beans, beef and plantains. Try the Canoa Con Carne Molida, a whole sweet plantain filled with ground beef and topped with cheese. El Coqui, 400 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-542-8868.
MEXICAN
Menudo, posole and birria: Friday night through Sunday afternoon, you’ll find entire families bent over bowls of steaming stew that promise to cure everything from homesickness and hangovers to the common cold. If you’re new to the genre, however, there’s a learning curve. You’ll want to start out with posole, made with hominy (dried corn), pork, onions and broth, and reminds me of a heartier, earthier version of chicken noodle soup. Next up, venture to birria, which is often served on Sunday mornings. Made with goat meat (or beef), dried chiles and plenty of garlic, it’s served with cilantro, lime and corn tortillas. Menudo is a tougher sell for the non-initiated, with tripe (beef stomach) and pig’s feet being key ingredients in this brothy soup. You love it, or you don’t. La Texanita, 1667 Sebastopol Rd., Santa Rosa, 707-525-1905.
Lengua tacos at La Texanita in roseland, California. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Lengua, pig stomach and cabeza tacos: Using the whole animal is an art. The leftover bits like tongue, head meat, tail and feet need a little extra TLC in the kitchen, but the hours of braising, seasoning and spices make offal highly prized in Latin cultures. It can make lots of folks squeamish, but you might be surprised at how tender and delicious this meat can be. Or, you may decide it’s not for you. Either way, it’s a fun culinary adventure. Available at most taquerias. Try the pig stomach at El Roy’s Mexican Grill and taco truck, 210 Edith St., Petaluma, 707-241-6534.
Mole Negro: With Aztec roots, this mystical black-brown sauce has somewhere between 12 and 30 ingredients, depending on the recipe. Passed down through the generations, it includes several types of dried chiles, garlic, peanuts, cinnamon, raisins, bread, tomatoes and Mexican chocolate. Most restaurants don’t have the time or expertise to make it by hand, but Octavio Diaz has a secret weapon — his mother’s recipe. Agave Restaurant & Tequila Bar, 1063 Vine St., Healdsburg, 707-433-2897 serves it over chicken. You can buy it at the nearby Casa del Mole, 434 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-433-4138 to take home.
Molcajete at La Texanita in Santa Rosa (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Fresh Tortillas: You haven’t had a tortilla until you’ve had a fresh, handmade tortilla. One of the most passionate advocates for the iconic corn tortilla is Karen Waikiki, the founder of El Molino Central, 11 Central Ave., Boyes Hot Springs, 707-939-1010. She’s become renowned for revitalizing traditional methods of stone-grinding corn into masa, an art all but lost in Mexico. Each morning, around 11 a.m., staff members feed soaked corn — grown by a single farmer in Nebraska — into the specially-made grinding machine for the day’s tortillas and tamales.
Elote at Guiso Latin Fusion Kitchen in Healdsburg (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Elote: Once you taste corn on the cob with a swipe of mayonnaise, butter, chili powder and cojita cheese, you’ll never be satisfied with it any other way. The best is from the Delicias Elanita Taco Truck, 799 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, where they’ll pull a steaming hot ear from a small cart, slather it with deliciousness, then wrap it in foil to take home or eat right there under the awning. We love the upscale version at Healdsburg’s Guiso Latin Fusion, 117 W. North St., Healdsburg, 707-431-1302. Its elotitos are small slices of corn in Jamaican jerk seasoning with butter, garlic and chive crema.
Tamarind candy in Roseland (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Tamarind Candy: This sweet, sour, salty, spicy candy is dangerously addictive. Made with the pulp of the tamarind fruit (a very sour legume popular in Indian, African, Asian and Latin cooking), it’s mixed with sugar, salt and chili powder as a candy. We love the soft Palebola Tama-Roca pops best of all. Dulceria Las Tapatias, 1630 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, 707-536-9543.
Pupusas and curtido at Homemade Tortilla in Santa Rosa, CA. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
SALVADORAN
Pupusas: When you hear the slap, slap, slap of masa from the hands of abuelas, you know you’ve arrived at a Pupuseria. These little fried corn cakes are stuffed with cheese, vegetables, meat, beans and other goodies, arriving piping hot at the table with a side of cortida (a fermented slaw). Everyone has a favorite spot, but we’re really partial to Don Julio’s Rincon Latin Grill and Pupusas, 217 Southwest Blvd., Rohnert Park, 707-242-3160.
BRAZILIAN
Rodizio: Brazil is cattle country, so it’s not a shock that much of its cuisine is based around beef. Lots and lots of beef. Rodizio is an all-you-can-eat show, where skewers of meat are brought to the table (filet mignon to pork, lamb or chicken) and sliced onto your plate. If you go, make sure to also get some Pao de Queijo, Brazilian cheese bread. Brasil BBQ, 5306 Old Redwood Hwy, Petaluma, 707-665-0644 or Brasa Churrascaria & Brewpub, 505 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-623-9382.
Grab a fork and put on your fat pants because it’s restaurant opening season in Sonoma County. Or at least, it seems that way as more and more eateries swing open their doors this fall to eager eaters. Here are four we can’t wait to try…
Crocodile French Cuisine: Husband and wife team Michael Dotson and Moira Beveridge have opened a new French bistro in Theatre Square at the former Bistro 100. The couple own Martin’s West Gastro Pub in Redwood City, but recently relocated to Sonoma County with their young daughter. The focus is on authentic French cuisine influenced by local ingredients from nearby farms and ranches. They’ll also have a curated wine list with both French and small production regional California wines. On the menu: Carmelized onion tartine, steak frites, duck confit, lamb tongue with coco beans, charcuterie and a plum clafoutis with lemon verbena Chantilly cream. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday from 11:30a.m. to 10p.m., 140 Second Street., Suite 100, Petaluma, 981-8159, crocodilepetaluma.com.
Trading Post Market and Bakery: This long-anticipated Cloverdale restaurant is yet another feather in the cap of this emerging dining north county destination. Though the small bakery has been open more than a year, the main dining room officially opened Friday with a hearty Sonoma County-inspired menu that includes a house-ground burger on their own brioche, fried chicken thighs, Liberty Farms duck confit over seaweed, Blue Leg Farms roasted chicken, and porchetta. We love the “daily toast”, which on the soft opening menu was smoked avocado with grilled beef tongue and fermented chili relish. At the helm is Erik Johnson, former J Vineyards chef and Dry Creek Kitchen alum. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 1 to 6p.m. 102 S. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 894-6483, thepostcloverdale.com.
Handpies from Whole Pie in Santa Rosa
Whole Pie: We’ve been cheering for farm market baker and Zazu server Trishia Davis as she’s documented the build of her dream pie shop over the last year. Now open, Whole Pie features lunch or dinner in a crust, with sweet and savory slices and hand pies (along with whole pies, of course) including the “Sweet Tooth” made with butterscotch pudding and a dash of curry; “Holy Moly” with chicken mole in a cocoa crust; “Mister Crunchy” with prosciutto and Emmentaler cheese in a Dijon bechamel or “Beer Belly” with beer-braised short ribs, onions and aged English cheddar. Beer, cider and wine along with coffee and craft soda. Open from 11a.m. to 7p.m. Wednesday through Monday, closed Tuesday. 2792 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 843-4365, thewholepieshop.com.
Slam Burger: Opening in November, Slam Burger in Petaluma. The organic, locally-sourced, non-GMO burger spot will feature nearly a dozen burger options including beef, lamb, bison, turkey, chicken, ahi, and multiple vegetarian patties. The family-focused fast-casual restaurant will also include beer, wine, hot dogs, salads and milkshakes. 5 Petaluma Blvd., Petaluma, theslamburger.com.
Still on the horizon: Healdsburg’s Single Thread Farms (no official opening date), 2 Tread Brewing in Santa Rosa.
