The Ultimate Guide to Sonoma Tasting Rooms

What kind of wine taster are you? Are you looking to revel in gorgeous gardens, or do you relish a fine coastal Pinot Noir? Is it all about classic Sonoma history, or are you seeking family producers a bit off the beaten track?

Whatever the reason, we’ve put together a Sonoma tasting guide to end all tasting guides, with over 120 recommendations — and right now is the perfect time to head out to explore the best wineries in Sonoma.

Click through the above gallery for a peek at a few of our favorite places to taste wine in Sonoma County.

“I Want to Support Smaller, Family-Owned Wineries — Ones a Bit off the Beaten Path.”

Carol Shelton Wines: Set in an industrial district of Santa Rosa, this tiny tasting room can barely contain all the ribbons and awards that Shelton — known as the “Queen of Zin” — has won. $20. 3354-B Coffey Lane, Santa Rosa. 707-575-3441, carolshelton.com

Frick Winery: Bill Frick has been a one-man show for 49 years. Join him in the adorable Frick House for small-lot wines made from Rhône varieties grown on his 7.7-acre ranch. Free. 23072 Walling Road, Geyserville. 707-484-3950, frickwinery.com

Enriquez Estate Winery: Cecilia Enriquez and her parents, Ana and Eduardo, produce about 1,000 cases a year of Pinot Noir and Tempranillo on the family’s 8.5-acre vineyard. From $50. 5960 Eastside Road, Forestville. 707347-9719, enriquezwines.com

Inman Family Wines: Try Kathleen Inman’s balanced, food-friendly Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and sparklers at this welcoming spot set in an organic vineyard. $30. 3900 Piner Road, Santa Rosa. 707-293-9576. inmanfamilywines.com

Baker Lane Estate/Singer Wine: Stephen Singer ran the wine program at Berkeley’s Chez Panisse with his former spouse, Alice Waters. He welcomes a few guests each week for a light meal and tasting of biodynamically farmed Syrah and Viognier. From $85. 7361 Baker Lane, Sebastopol. singer.wine

Bruliam Wines: Physician-turned-winemaker Kerith Overstreet makes just 1,000 cases — mainly single-vineyard Pinot Noir — each year. 1200 American Way, Windsor. bruliamwines.com

Sonoma County winery MacRostie
MacRostie Winery & Vineyards in Healdsburg. (Kim Carroll)

AVA Spotlight: Russian River Valley

Home to some of Sonoma’s oldest, most-prized vineyards, the Russian River Valley is widely recognized for premium Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The region is known for generously sunny days and cool, foggy nights, but given the diverse sub-regions, other varietals thrive here, too, like Zinfandel, Merlot and even cool-climate Syrah.

Favorite destinations include Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, where winemaker Theresa Heredia has been creating her own legacy of award-winning Pinot. Fellow pioneering labels like Merry Edwards, Williams Selyem, Rochioli and MacRostie Winery & Vineyards helped establish the Russian River Valley as an epicenter of premium Pinot Noir.

Sonoma-Cutrer and Balletto are ever-popular tasting spots and a crackling fireplace beckons at Benovia Winery. 

The Dutton family of Dutton Estate have been farming in the Russian River region for six generations. And David Ramey of Ramey Wine Cellars is considered among the state’s most innovative winemakers. Tastings here overlook the production facility, for a glimpse of the magic in action.

Sonoma County winery Leo Steen
Leo Hansen of Leo Steen Wines. (Lightspeed Films)

Taste With a Pro: Leo Hansen, Leo Steen Wines

The Drink (53 Front St., Healdsburg), located in the 1800s-era Old Roma Station building, is a shared tasting room for two standout labels: Hansen’s Leo Steen Wines (leosteenwines.com) and his buddy Mike Lucia’s Rootdown Wine Cellars (rootdownwine.com).

“The space was built as a co-op for Italian immigrants to make wine, and later became a fruit-drying facility during Prohibition,” explains Hansen.

His pick is the vibrant, green apple-kissed Saini Farms Dry Creek Valley Chenin Blanc, from one of the oldest planted Chenin Blanc vineyards in Sonoma County. “I love creating food-friendly, low-alcohol wine from this sleek, silky variety,” he says.

And Hansen loves meeting his guests — he leads tastings of six wines seven days a week ($30). After tasting at The Drink, Hansen likes to recommend that folks walk just a few blocks along the Russian River to Arnot-Roberts (arnotroberts.com). “They make fantastic wines with fun varietals like Ribolla Gialla, Trousseau and Gamay Noir.”

3 Great Kid-Friendly Wineries

Belden Barns, Santa Rosa: Scavenger hunts, explorer backpacks to borrow and a special wishing tree. beldenbarns.com

Preston of Dry Creek, Healdsburg: Ultra laid-back, with rambling gardens to explore, kitties to pet and hearth-baked sourdough bread. prestonofdrycreek.com

Cline Cellars, Sonoma: A historic property with sprawling gardens. Picnicking is welcome, and there are cute donkeys, too. Be sure to ask for a coloring map of their property to keep the kiddos entertained. clinecellars.com

No Car Needed: Petaluma

Petaluma has a Norman Rockwell feel, but locals know aspects of the town are just as edgy as San Francisco, just 35 miles to the south. Several excellent tasting rooms beckon here.

Barber Cellars (barbercellars.com), in the Art Deco-style Hotel Petaluma, features standout Zinfandel, classic ’80s arcade games, and an interesting food pairing consisting of a Ukrainian-style zakuski platter of cheeses, salads and savory pastries.

The future Adobe Road Winery, from former race car driver Kevin Buckler (adoberoadwines.com) is under construction along the Petaluma waterfront. For now, Adobe Road tastings are held in the historic Great Petaluma Mill.

And nearby Brooks Note Winery & Tasting Room (brooksnotewinery.com) is in a 1920s-era building. The flagship here is Pinot, but don’t miss the food-friendly Blaufrankisch, paired with local cheese.

Hardy Wallace, owner of Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah! in Sonoma.
Hardy Wallace, owner of Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah! in Sonoma.

From award-winning winemaker Hardy Wallace, the most exuberant man in all of Wine Country, the Sonoma tasting room for Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah! is a kaleidoscope of creativity and artistic intention. winecoyeah.com

‘‘Shifting the Lens” at sparkling wine specialist J Vineyards & Winery invites chefs from diverse backgrounds to take over the menu at their popular Bubble Room. In May, the honor went to James Beard semifinalist chef Michael Reed, of Poppy & Seed restaurant. jwine.com

2 Great Spots for Live Music

Muscardini Cellars, Kenwood: Italian varietals and live music every weekend May to October, with Simmer Down Saturdays. muscardinicellars.com

Rodney Strong Vineyards, Healdsburg: Beloved for their summer concert series, with major artists like Chris Isaak and Blues Traveler. Reserve a seat or bring a blanket and sit on the green. rodneystrong.com

“I’m a Total Foodie. Where Can I Have a Delicious Meal With My Tasting?”

Bricoleur Vineyards: The food program here is so meticulously handled that it takes three chefs to run it, including famed chef Charlie Palmer. The Rooted tasting ($150) impresses with a seasonal six-course meal with artistic dishes like handmade sweet shrimp siu mai dumplings with lemongrass and ginger. 7394 Starr Road, Windsor. 707-857-5700, bricoleurvineyards.com

Kivelstadt Cellars: Kivelstadt’s bucolic tasting room is also an exceptional restaurant called Bloom Carneros from chef Jennifer McMurry. 22900 Broadway, Sonoma. 707-938-7001, kivelstadtcellars.com

Lynmar Estate: Chef David Frakes’ expensive-but-worth-it Collectors Lunch Pairing ($250) includes an exquisite, multi-course meal with dishes such as chile-Persian lime dusted watermelon with blistered stone fruit slaw. 3909 Frei Road, Sebastopol. 707-829-3374, lynmarestate.com

Jordan Vineyard & Winery: In April 2023, Jesse Mallgren left The Madrona, the Michelin-star restaurant he had run for nearly 25 years, and took his toque over to the glamorous Jordan, amping up an already upscale program. 1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg. 707-431-5250, jordanwinery.com

Paul Hobbs Winery: Chef Timothy Kaulfers joined this luxury spot in April 2023 to lead the Vineyard Designate tasting experience ($250), offering six rare wines alongside delectable dishes like housemade chicken sausage with an onion and fennel soubise. 3355 Gravenstein Hwy. N., Sebastopol. 707-824-9879, paulhobbswinery.com

Mayo Family Winery: Chef John Locher serves a delightfully inventive, meal with small-batch reserve wines in the Reserve Room ($90). 13101 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. 707-833-5504, mayofamilywinery.com

Bloom Carneros, formerly Kivelstadt Cellars and Winegarten in Sonoma. (Daniel E Kokin)
Bloom Carneros, formerly Kivelstadt Cellars and Winegarten in Sonoma. (Daniel E Kokin)
Sushi Grade Ahi Tuna with avocado, kewpie and served with chips from served with ÒTwice RemovedÓ RosŽ from the taps at Kivelstadt Cellars and WineGarten at the corner of Hwy 12 and Hwy 121 in Sonoma Thursday, October 20, 2022. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Sushi Grade Ahi Tuna with avocado, kewpie and served with chips from served with Twice Removed Rosé from the taps at Kivelstadt Cellars/Bloom Carneros. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

AVA Spotlight: Sonoma Valley

Stretched along the Mayacamas Mountains to the east and the Sonoma Mountains to the west, this beautiful area encompasses five distinct appellations and many microclimates ranging from brilliant sunshine to cool coastal fog. Given the climate, many types of grapes can thrive here.

Visit the 1,850-acre Kunde Family Winery for a mountaintop tasting, Chateau St. Jean for a garden stroll and tasting at the historic 1920s chateau, or VJB Cellars for Italian varietals and wood-fired pizzas on the Tuscan-style piazza.

Arrowood is famous for its warm-climate Cabernet Sauvignon and gracious tastings on its veranda, while Loxton Cellars and Hamilton Family Wines are boutique gems where you can see operations up-close, from grape to glass.

No Car Needed: Downtown Sonoma

Over 20 wineries have tasting rooms around downtown Sonoma’s shady plaza, making it an excellent destination for a day of tasting without the need for a designated driver.

Tom Darling of indie natural wine producer Darling Wines, down a pretty alleyway at the south end of the square, hit a home run with his very first vintage of cool-climate Syrah in 2017, which made the wine list at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon.

Pangloss Cellars (below) is a chic, airy tasting salon for Rhone varietals, with stone walls and wide windows out onto the park. Sosie Wines, right near Darling, makes three sparklers: red, white, and rosé, as well as an interesting Moon Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon.

And Sojourn Cellars is the spot for single-vineyard Pinot Noir from the Petaluma Gap, Russian River and Sonoma Coast.

Pangloss Cellars hosted an industry mixer on Friday afternoon. The 19th Annual Sonoma International Film Festival took place from March 30 to April 3. (Photos by Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
Pangloss Cellars in Sonoma. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
Sonoma County winery Corner 103
Lloyd Davis of Corner 103 in Sonoma. (Corner 103)

Founder Lloyd Davis has earned all kinds of recognition for his Corner 103 boutique tasting room in downtown Sonoma, including being named one of the top 10 tasting rooms in the country — twice. Davis credits the Black Lives Matter movement for making guests more aware of the importance of diversity in the wine industry and strives to make wine approachable to all. corner103.com

Free Tastings

At historic Korbel Winery in the Russian River Valley, the standard “marketplace” tasting is free, and a flight of three different wines is just $15 (korbel.com). And the super-friendly Locals Tasting Room in Geyserville offering tastings from 10 different local boutique producers, gratis (localstastingroom.com).

3 Great Spots to Play Bocce

Landmark Vineyards, Kenwood: Outdoor tastings by a lake and bocce for groups as large as 15. landmarkwine.com

Roth Estate, Healdsburg: Dedicated to powerful Cabernet from the Alexander Valley, Roth also hosts a bocce and barbecue tournament each spring. rothwinery.com

Dutcher Crossing, Geyserville: Play pétanque (another boules sport) on a court overlooking vineyards. Plus, get snuggles from cute golden retrievers. dutchercrossingwinery.com

Monica Lopez, the general manager of Bacchus Landing and proprietor of Aldina Vineyards, in Healdsburg, Calif., Thursday, December 15, 2022. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Monica Lopez, the general manager of Bacchus Landing and proprietor of Aldina Vineyards in Healdsburg. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)

Taste With a Pro: Monica Lopez, Bacchus Landing

At this winery collective just outside Healdsburg, general manager Monica Lopez knows a thing or two about tasting rooms. After all, seven different boutique wineries welcome guests to the 3-acre property, which also has wood-fired pizza, a bocce court, and live music.

“I love being outdoors, so we put a lot of work into making Bacchus Landing a place you could relax outside,” says Lopez, whose family winery, Aldina Vineyards (aldinavineyards.com), is one of the seven tasting rooms on-site (tastings from $25). “We really want to encourage guests to purchase a bottle of wine and just hang out.”

On the rare occasions when Lopez isn’t leading tours at Bacchus Landing, she has a penchant for tasting rooms with beautiful outdoor spaces, like Robert Young Estate in Geyserville (ryew.com).

Bacchus Landing. 14210 Bacchus Landing Way, Healdsburg. 707-395-0697, bacchuslanding.com

“It’s a Special Occasion, And I’m in the Mood To Splurge.”

Aperture Cellars: Modern luxury meets refined hospitality, where rockstar winemaker Jesse Katz continues to impress with his revered Bordeaux-style wines. There is plenty of eye candy here, including images from Katz’s father, photographer Andy Katz. Clearly, talent is a family affair. From $50. 12291 Old Redwood Hwy., Healdsburg. 707-200-7891, aperture-cellars.com

Silver Oak: Those who adore Cabernet will find much to fall in love with here. The winery produces an acclaimed expression of the Bordeaux varietal each year. From $50. 7300 Hwy. 128, Healdsburg. 707-942-7082, silveroak.com

Flowers Vineyards & Winery: There are few better ways to impress than a visit to Flowers Vineyards & Winery, where a short walk through the redwoods reveals a masterfully designed tasting room, California-inspired gardens, and acclaimed Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast. From $75. 4035 Westside Road, Healdsburg. 707-723-4800, flowerswinery.com

The Donum Estate: Spanning 220 idyllic acres in the Carneros, The Donum Estate is designed to dazzle, with more than 50 thought-provoking large-scale sculptures. The most exclusive tasting ($500) happens inside a kaleidoscopic pavilion of colored glass. From $150. 24500 Ramal Road, Sonoma. 707-732-2200, thedonumestate.com

Vérité Winery: Twenty minutes east of Healdsburg, Vérité seems to appear out of thin air, a dramatic, Abbey-inspired estate on a bucolic stretch of road. Father-daughter winemakers Pierre and Hélène Seillan have produced 17 hundred-point wines — all Bordeaux-style blends that reflect the region’s many micro-crus. From $200. 4611 Thomas Road, Healdsburg. 707-433-9000, veritewines.com

Hamel Family Wines: Impressive views of the biodynamically farmed vineyards, bespoke wine and food pairings, and small-production Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux-style blends all lure guests to this special spot in Sonoma Valley. From $95. 15401 Sonoma Hwy., Sonoma. 707-996-5800, hamelfamilywines.com

The Donum Estate.
Silver Oak.

AVA Spotlight: Petaluma Gap

Bursts of Pacific Ocean-driven wind and fog through a “gap” in coastal mountain ranges makes the region a prime spot for growing cool climate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah. It’s a huge AVA, spanning more than 200,000 acres from Bodega Bay to San Pablo Bay, but is mostly towns, vineyards and agriculture. Many well-known wines are made with fruit grown here, but actual tasting rooms located in the field are hard to come by.

To get the best sense of the wines made from the Petaluma Gap, head to Keller Estate, perched on a lushly landscaped hilltop with magical vineyard and valley views. Winemaker Ana Keller includes interesting varietals like a Syrah-Viognier blend, a Pinot Gris and sparkling wines (from $35, kellerestate.com).

Taste With a Pro: Ted Lemon, Littorai

There’s a lot to love at Littorai, but the coolest thing about visiting, says Lemon, is the private farm tour. “We’re a biodynamic wine farm, so you really get to see what’s involved in that,” he says. This includes seeing how Littorai makes biodynamic compost teas, which help nourish the vines, and walking through the vineyard blocks. “There’s a lovely view up top, so you can get a sense of the Sebastopol hills,” he says.

Lemon also likes taking friends to Freeman Winery for cave tastings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and to Arnot-Roberts for intriguing, site-specific wines. “The Freemans are lovely and they’re small and owner-run. They don’t make a lot of wine, so you’re really tasting the signature of the winemaker,” he says (freemanwinery.com).

At Arnot-Roberts (arnotroberts.com), Lemon says there are a range of wines on offer from all over, often including offbeat varieties. “It’s really a lot of fun.”

Littorai tastings from $65. 788 Gold Ridge Road, Sebastopol. 707-823-9586, littorai.com

Ted Lemon, proprietor and winemaker at Littorai Wines. (Courtesy Littorai Wines)
Ted Lemon of Littorai. (Tina Caputo)

3 Great Wineries to Bring Your Dog

Mutt Lynch Winery, Windsor: One of the most dog-friendly wineries around, with the motto “bark less, wag more.” Wine flights and wine club shipments come with special dog treats. muttlynchwinery.com

Smith Story Wine Cellars, Healdsburg: Lord Sandwich, the charismatic goldendoodle belonging to winery owners Alison Smith Story and Eric Story, helped make this charming family-owned tasting room Instagram-famous. smithstorywines.com

Kunde Family Winery, Kenwood: Fifth-generation winegrower Jordan Kunde welcomes dogs and their owners for a hike and romp through vineyards and native grasslands. kunde.com

Alison Smith Story and Eric Story with Lord Sandwich.

3 Great Wineries with Olive Groves

DaVero Farms & Winery, Healdsburg: Cuttings from an ancient, 800-year-old olive grove in Tuscany helped establish the orchards. The fruit is gently handpicked, then pressed the same day for an extra-virgin elixir that’s rich, fruity and peppery.  davero.com

Trattore Farms, Geyserville: For $20, add a tasting of their excellent flavored oils to any tasting at their Dry Creek estate or in downtown Healdsburg. trattorefarms.com

Jacuzzi Family Vineyards, Sonoma: A large stone chateau anchors one of the area’s largest olive oil operations, with 45 acres of Italian and Spanish trees. In harvest season (usually October), visitors can see the pressing process up close. jacuzziwines.com

Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Sonoma County
Francis Ford Coppola Winery.

At Geyserville’s family-friendly Francis Ford Coppola Winery, reserve a cabine to hang out and swim for the day in one of two giant swimming pools surrounded by chic blue chaise lounges (from $250). Inside, film buffs will find a museum of Coppola’s movie memorabilia, including Academy Awards and a screeching red Tucker automobile. francisfordcoppolawinery.com

Taste With a Pro: Alice Sutro, Sutro Wine Co.

Visual artist, winemaker and mother of two Alice Sutro wants her guests to experience her family’s ranch in Chalk Hill, near the Russian River, in a very authentic way, so guests are led on a walk through the vineyard tasting.

“It’s like a 30-minute crash course in viticulture. Why does a trellis work that way, why do we maintain the canopy like this, what are our volcanic soils like — and here’s how that affects what’s in the glass,” explains Sutro. “I really want people to see the effort and value in grape-growing. It seems so necessary to me.”

When not walking the lands that inspire her painting and winemaking, Sutro’s hands-down favorite tasting room is Bannister Wines in Geyserville (bannisterwines.com), where Brook Bannister, a furniture craftsman turned winemaker, and Morgania Moore, a jewelry and lighting designer, have created a bohemian-styled art gallery and salon in a 104-year-old former bank.

Sutro Wine Co. hike and tasting, $65. 13301 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg. 707-509-9695, sutrowine.com

Alice Sutro. (Kelsey-Anne Jones)
Alice Sutro. (Kelsey-Anne Jones)
Sonoma County winery
Olga Fernandez of Guerrero Fernandez Winery in Windsor. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Owners Olga Fernandez and Martin Guerrero have poured their hearts into the homespun tasting room at Guerrero Fernandez Winery in Windsor, where guests can compare Zinfandel from Dry Creek and Russian River valleys. Don’t miss the karaoke nights. gfwines.com

“I Love a Sense of History. What Are Some Classic Destinations?”

Martinelli Winery: For more than 135 years, the Martinelli family has farmed this land, including the famously steep Jackass Hill. Daredevil winegrower Giuseppe Martinelli planted Jackass Hill in 1889 and farmed it with a team of horses for 30 years. From $35. 3360 River Road, Windsor. 707-525-0570, martinelliwinery.com

Buena Vista Winery: California’s first premium winery was founded by Hungarian immigrant Count Agoston Haraszthy in 1857. Don’t miss the plush, Champagne-focused Bubble Lounge. From $35. 18000 Old Winery Road, Sonoma. 800-926-1266, buenavistawinery.com

Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens: The late Jess Jackson bought his first vineyards in 1974. An unwitting mistake that produced a slightly sweet Chardonnay put the winery on the map. These days, a 4-acre organic garden produces rare veggies for in-house pairing menus. From $35. 5007 Fulton Road, Santa Rosa. 707-571-8100, kj.com

Gundlach Bundschu Winery: The oldest family-owned winery in the state, GunBun’s Rhinefarm vineyards were first planted in 1858. The Bundschu family is known for coastal Chardonnay and reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, among a dozen different varietals — and for rollicking outdoor concerts in the old redwood barn. Metallica once performed a secret concert here. From $75. 2000 Denmark St., Sonoma. 707-938-5277, gunbun.com

Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery: This downtown Sonoma winery, founded in 1904, was one of the few to operate through Prohibition, producing small amounts of sacramental and medicinal wines. From $50. 389 Fourth St. E., Sonoma. 707-933-3200, sebastiani.com

Iron Horse Vineyards: The family winery began with a vision in the pouring rain back in 1976. Audrey Sterling and her late husband Barry thought the 300 acres of gentle rolling Sebastopol hills looked like Camelot. Today, the small sparkling wine house produces stellar bubbly. From $35. 9786 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol. 707-887-1507, ironhorsevineyards.com

Bubble Lounge Buena Vista Winery Sonoma County
The Bubble Lounge at Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma. (Buena Vista Winery)

AVA Spotlight: Alexander Valley

This is one of Sonoma County’s largest appellations in terms of acres planted, second only to the vast North Sonoma AVA. Located near Geyserville, Alexander Valley is known for fruit-driven Cabernet Sauvignon that is complex and full bodied, with silky tannins. This distinctive Cab comes courtesy of the region’s warm, dry climate, morning fog, and the moderating influence of the Russian River. Chardonnay, which tends to be on the rich, floral side, also shines here, along with old vine Zinfandel. Get a sense of the region’s best at Stonestreet Wines (below), Hawkes Wine, Hanna and Alexander Valley Vineyards.

Sonoma County winery Stonestreet
Stonestreet Wines. 

Taste With a Pro: Katie Madigan, St. Francis Winery

In 2002, Madigan was a 21-year-old intern at St. Francis back when the proverbial light bulb went off and she realized winemaking was her calling.

Two decades later, Madigan is still just as excited about the work she does. She says the winery has a variety of fun tasting experiences, including a pedal trolley tour made famous by Al Roker and friends at a taping with NBC’s Today Show in April 2023. Estate pairings on the patio from chef Peter Janiak use produce from the 2-acre garden.

With out-of-town guests, Madigan also loves visiting Anaba Wines in Sonoma (anabawines.com). “The winery is super dog-friendly, which makes it easy to bring my pup along,” she says. She also enjoys rare Rhone and Italian varietals at Unti Vineyards in Healdsburg (untivineyards.com). “All of its wines are dynamite, and the intimate feel of its tasting room gives the perfect personal touch.”

St. Francis tastings from $35. 100 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa. 888-675-9463, stfranciswinery.com

Sonoma County winery St. Francis
Katie Madigan, St. Francis Winery & Vineyards winemaker (St. Francis Winery & Vineyards)

Top 3 Tastings in Caves

Bella Winery, Healdsburg: In sprawling caves set beneath the gorgeous, century-old Lily Hill vineyard, visitors gather among stacks of barrels as soft light filters in. Small-production lots of Zinfandel are the draw. From $30. 9711 W. Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707-473-9171, bellawinery.com

Deerfield Ranch Winery, Kenwood: Feel like part of the harvest action as you cross the outdoor crushpad to reach a quiet tasting room set inside 23,000 square feet of caves. From $35. 10200 Sonoma Hwy., Kenwood. 707-833-5215, deerfieldranch.com

Capo Creek Ranch, Healdsburg: Food pairings are led by Mary Roy, a former physician, now Capo’s hospitable winemaker, chef and owner. From $165. 7171 W. Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707-608-8448, capocreekranch.com

Whamola wieners at Claypool Cellars in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Whamola wieners at Claypool Cellars in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Pachyderm Station is what Primus guitarist Les Claypool calls his quirky Sebastopol tasting room decorated with concert posters and an old-timey bar. Homey? Yes. Weird in the best kind of way? Also, yes. Fridays through Sundays, pair the excellent site-specific Pinot Noirs with fancy hot dogs from Claypool’s own Whamola Wieners. purplepachyderm.com

At The Barlow in Sebastopol, Pax Winery & Tasting Room is like a clubhouse for likeminded indie winemakers, led by Syrah and Grenache specialist Pax Mahle. Take a quick peek around back at harvest time to glimpse the busy crush facility he shares with natural wine pioneer Martha Stoumen and rising stars Rosalind Reynolds and Patrick Cappiello. paxwine.com

Pax Winery in Sonoma County
The Pax Winery tasting room at The Barlow on a Friday afternoon in Sebastopol. (John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)
Golden hour picnic in Antonia's Garden at Bartholomew Estate Winery. (Michelle Hogan)
Golden hour picnic in Antonia’s Garden at Bartholomew Estate Winery. (Michelle Hogan)

Top 3 for a Great Picnic

Lambert Bridge Winery, Healdsburg: Shady tables await on an expansive picnic lawn, with gorgeous views of vineyards and surrounding forests. From $35. 4085 W. Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707- 431-9600, lambertbridge.com

VML Winery, Healdsburg: Chill in the serene Butterfly Garden, a shaded sanctuary tucked next to Dry Creek, as you enjoy single-vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. From $50. 5610 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707-431-4404, vmlwine.com

Bartholomew Estate Winery, Sonoma: Grab a bottle from the tasting room, then settle in at a picnic table overlooking the vineyard. After, hit the trail at 375-acre Bartholomew Park. From $45. 1000 Vineyard Lane, Sonoma. 707-509-0540, bartholomewestate.com

“Forget Instagram. I Want All the Prettiest Views in Real Life.”

Paradise Ridge: The second-story veranda is the place to drink in sweeping views of the Russian River Valley and the winery’s iconic “LOVE” sculpture as the sun sets over the vineyards. Paradise found, indeed. From $35. 4545 Thomas Lake Harris Drive, Santa Rosa. 707-528-9463, prwinery.com

Scribe Winery: Lush palms meet native ornamental grasses, succulents, roses, and a bountiful culinary garden at Scribe. The landscape’s wild splendor is a fitting accent to the restored hacienda’s “old California” vibe. Tastings for Scribe Viticultural Society members. 2100 Denmark St., Sonoma. 707-939-1858, scribewinery.com

Matanzas Creek Winery: Stunning lavender fields beckon at Matanzas Creek, especially in June, when row upon row of fragrant purple blossoms reach their peak. Book a reservation to visit the terraced gardens and tasting room. From $35. 6097 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa. 707-528-6464, matanzascreek.com

Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery: The gardens are stunning any time of year, but for tulip lovers, early spring is the time to visit. Call the winery’s “tulip hotline” to find out when they’re at their colorful best. Tastings start at $40. 8761 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707-433-6700, ferraricarano.com

Arista Winery: With a winding gravel pathway, picturesque pond, and harmonious collection of trees, ferns and manicured greenery, the Japanese water garden at Arista is an oasis of serenity for seated sipping. From $30. 7015 Westside Road, Healdsburg. 707-473-0606, aristawinery.com

McEvoy Ranch: The 550-acre winery and olive oil operation is tucked away in a hidden, private valley on the Sonoma/ Marin county line near Petaluma. Graceful olive trees are surrounded by extensive plantings of lavender and herbs. 5935 Red Hill Road, Petaluma. 707778-2307, mcevoyranch.com

Scribe Winery in Sonoma County
Scribe Winery in Sonoma. (Leo Patrone)
Sonoma County winery Matanzas
Matanzas Creek Winery in Santa Rosa. (Matanzas Creek Winery)

AVA Spotlight: Sonoma Coast

The Sonoma Coast appellation covers more than 750 square miles, stretching from the Mendocino County border to the San Pablo Bay. While the expansive AVA’s diverse microclimates, soils, elevations, and exposures allow many grape varieties to flourish, it’s best known for cool climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Set within the broader Sonoma Coast, the West Sonoma Coast AVA covers the farthest western sliver of the county along the Pacific coastline, as well as the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA. The region sets itself apart with a cool maritime climate, high elevations and extreme growing conditions. To sample the coast, visit Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery (below) — one of the few West Sonoma Coast wineries with a tasting room within the bounds of the remote region — plus Peay Vineyards, Cobb Wines, Red Car Wine and Hirsch Vineyards.

Sonoma County winery Fort Ross Vineyard
Fort Ross Vineyard and Winery.

Taste With a Pro: Corinne Rich and Katie Rouse, Birdhorse Wines

Rich and Rouse have day jobs as assistant winemakers at Scribe and Bedrock Wine Co., respectively, but the couple still finds time to run their own wine brand, crafting uncommon varietals like Valdiguie and Cinsault. The couple thrill to introducing people to favorites like their Portuguese-style, green pineapple-wet stone Contra Costa Verdelho.

“It’s such a special wine, with so much of the texture and weight of an Old World Chardonnay, but a flavor profile that’s authentically Californian.”

To taste, they invite guests to join their mailing list and attend their release parties, recently hosted at chic Luma Bar & Eatery in Petaluma. Or look for the couple at Preston Farm & Winery, one of their favorite stops, where they treasure bottlings of Barbera, Carignan and Nero d’Avola (prestonfarmandwinery.com). “Their wines are excellent, and the farm is such a beautiful, integrated ecosystem of grapes, animals, other crops, and the natural surroundings. It’s really a gold standard of what farming in Sonoma County can look like.”

Birdhorse Wines, birdhorsewines.com

Sonoma County winery Birdhorse
Corinne Rich and Katie Rouse of Birdhorse Wines. (Emma K. Creative)
Sonoma County winery Three Sticks
Three Sticks Wines tasting room in Sonoma. (Three Sticks Wines)

Custom white papel picado banners flutter in the breeze at the beautifully preserved 1842 Vallejo-Casteñada Adobe in downtown Sonoma, home to Three Sticks Wines, vintner Bill Price’s award-winning Pinot Noir and Chardonnay house. Not to be missed. threestickswines.com

Learn the art of sabrage — using the blunt edge of a sword to open a bottle of sparkling wine — at Healdsburg favorite Breathless Wines. After you learn to open the bottle, you get to drink it. breathlesswines.com

Sonoma County winery Breathless
At Breathless Wines in Healdsburg. (Jeremy Portje/For Sonoma Magazine)

Top 3 for High-End Design

Ram’s Gate Winery, Sonoma: This hilltop destination in the Carneros gives off Belgian country vibes and was designed by Orlando Diaz-Azcuy, a member of Interior Design magazine’s Hall of Fame. ramsgatewinery.com

Reeve Wines, Healdsburg: Noah and Kelly Dorrance cofounded Healdsburg’s Banshee Wines in 2009, and Reeve, named for their son, is one of the couple’s two spin-off projects after Banshee. Kelly also runs a Healdsburg antique shop, and the tasting lounge here is decorated with her gorgeous finds. Events hosted here benefit Everytown for Gun Safety. reevewines.com

Marine Layer, Healdsburg: As envisioned by standout local interior designers The Hommeboys, this is a Moroccan-inspired lounge for cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Sonoma Coast. marinelayerwines.com

Sonoma County winery Marine Layer
The Marine Layer tasting room in Healdsburg. (Gretchen Gause)
The Marine Layer tasting room in Healdsburg. (Gretchen Gause)
The bathroom at the Marine Layer tasting room in Healdsburg. (Gretchen Gause)

Taste With a Pro: William Allen, Two Shepherds

The Two Shepherds winery is low on glamour, says Allen, but rich in uncommon grape varieties. “You will often get to taste some really unusual things, like our Grenache Blanc, which we make as a normal white and as an orange wine,” he says. “Or we have a carbonic Carignan versus a regular Carignan, so we can show you the different expressions.”

When friends ask for winery recommendations, Allen often sends them to the wonderfully laid-back Ryme Cellars in Forestville (rymecellars.com). “I love Megan and Ryan Glaab,” he says. “They make unusual varieties and their wines are super-awesome. They just have really fun, clean, interesting things that you’re not going to find in a lot of places, and it’s super-upbeat.” Two Shepherds Winery, tastings from $20. 7763 Bell Road, Windsor. 415-613-5731, twoshepherds.com 

“I Want to Support Sustainable and Regenerative Farming.”

Medlock Ames Winery: Co-founder Ames Morison is an industry thought leader in sustainability planning and new trends in organic viticulture. A sound-immersion tour ($75) of their Bell Mountain Ranch property is an introduction to his approach. From $65. 13414 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg. 707-431-8845, medlockames.com

Hanzell Vineyards: Award-winning Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are created here in balance with organic vegetable gardens and orchards. Ducks and chickens wander the vineyards and a herd of fire-suppression pigs (yes, pigs!) loosen soils and tramp down overgrowth. $65. 18596 Lomita Ave., Sonoma. 707-996-3860, hanzell.com

Benziger Family: Winery Mike Benziger is a leader in biodynamic grapegrowing, a holistic method attuned to building the strength of the soil. On a tram tour into the vineyards ($35), learn about biodynamics and see the farm’s insectary gardens. From $75. 1883 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen. 888-490-2739, benziger.com

Ridge Vineyards, Lytton Springs: The solar-powered winery is made of straw bales plastered over with vineyard clay, an insulated design that stays cool in summer and warm in winter. The estate Zinfandel vines are more than 115 years old and have thrived after the changeover to organic practices. From $30. 650 Lytton Springs Road, Healdsburg. 707-433-7721, ridgewine.com

DeLoach Vineyards: The estate has been farmed biodynamic ally since 2009, and tasting room guests are invited to tour the “Theater of Nature,” as they call it — a wander through 20 acres of culinary gardens and vineyards. From $35. 1791 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa. 707-755-3300, deloachvineyards.com

Quivira Vineyards: Want to talk green? Ask about the epic 500-yard compost pile that nourishes the gardens and fields. Quivira is a model of integrated, diversified farming with organic vegetables, flowers, and livestock among the grapes. From $35. 4900 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707-431-8333, quivirawine.com

Medlock Ames in Healdsburg. (Kim Carroll/For Sonoma Magazine)
Sonoma County winery Medlock Ames
Medlock Ames in Healdsburg. (Kim Carroll/For Sonoma Magazine)

AVA Spotlight: Dry Creek Valley

Zinfandel lovers make a pilgrimage to Dry Creek to taste this inky, feisty varietal, which thrives on the long, full days of abundant sunshine tempered by cool breezes from the Pacific Ocean. In addition to Zin, other varieties that grow well there include Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Grenache.

The indomitable Dave Stare of Dry Creek Vineyard helped shape the course of the valley and establish it as an AVA. The Nalle family of Nalle Winery are Dry Creek pioneers who farm 100-year-old Zinfandel ines. Several families have wineries that go back generations here: A. Rafanelli Winery, Seghesio Family Vineyards, Rochioli Vineyards & Winery and Pedroncelli. And don’t miss the views from the tasting room at Cast Wines, which span nearly the entire valley.

Taste With a Pro: James McCeney, Patz & Hall Winery

The winemaker joined the P&H team in May 2023 and enjoys popping out of the cellar to greet guests and share what drew him to the storied winery, founded in 1988.

“One of the things that makes Patz & Hall so special is our deep relationship with our growers,” he says. “Throughout our tasting room, we proudly display images of these farming families.” He also gets a kick out of sharing secret treasure vineyards. “If you enjoy our Zio Tony Ranch Russian River Chardonnay, this makes you a true insider — it’s a New World mirror of a Premier Cru Chablis with a mouthwatering taught, crystalline acidity.”

If not hosting at the P&H Sonoma tasting room, he often takes friends to Domaine Cameras (domainecarneros.com). “I live just over the county line in Napa, off Old Sonoma Road, so it’s a great spot for sparkling wine made from Sonoma Carneros grapes.”

Patz & Hall Winery, 21200 Eighth St. E., Sonoma. 707-265-7700, patzhall.com

No Car Needed: Downtown Healdsburg

Healdsburg’s compact downtown, organized around a central plaza like several other local wine towns, is another spot to wander all day without starting up the car.

A tasting at Matt and Sara Licklider’s Lioco Winery is like a visit to your coolest friend’s even cooler house, with interesting light fixtures and art prints on the wall. Record player aside — yes, there’s that, too — they’re known for stellar Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Carignan with an emphasis on older vines, unique soil types and heritage clones.

On North Street, BloodRoot Wines hosts vinyl record spin sessions and pét-nat and pupusas nights. Alan Baker of Cartograph Wines worked in public radio production in Minnesota for decades before realizing his winemaking dream with wife Serena Lourie.

And Centennial Mountain (formerly Aeris, for the Latin word for air or climate), celebrates founder Kevin Harvey’s love of Piemontese varieties, including Carricante, an aromatic white grape that grows beautifully on Sonoma’s Centennial Mountain Vineyard. It’s believed to be one of the only plantings of the rare variety in the state.

Sonoma County winery Bedrock
Bedrock Wine Co. tasting room in Sonoma. (Bedrock Wine Co.)

The intrigue of Bedrock Wine Co. lies in complex, character-driven wines from historic vineyards over a century old. Winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson’s Sonoma tasting room occupies the 1852 home of Civil War general “Fighting Joe” Hooker — a coincidence given that Twain-Peterson also farms Hooker’s 130-year-old vineyard just outside town. From $45. 414 First St. E., Sonoma. 707-343-1478, bedrockwineco.com

Trail runners and mountain bikers can purchase a oneday pass to access vineyard trails with gorgeous views at Notre Vue Estate Winery & Vineyards outside Windsor. A 350-acre wildlife preserve surrounds the vineyard blocks. notrevueestate.com

Sonoma County winery Notre Vue
Notre Vue Estate Winery & Vineyards outside Windsor. (Notre Vue Estate Winery & Vineyards)

Top 3 for Trying Unusual Varietals

Idlewild Wines, Healdsburg: Owner Sam Bilbro loves Italian Piedmont wines, so that’s what he makes, in a rainbow array of single varietal masterpieces, including jasmine tea-white peach Arneis and tart strawberry-violet Freisa. idlewildwines.com

Old World Winery, Fulton: Celebrating natural, biodynamic wine, owner Darek Trowbridge adds nothing to his juice except a minimal amount of protective sulfur. Focusing on field blends from 120-year-old vineyards, he crafts very rare varietals such as Muscadelle, Trousseau Gris, Palomino and Mondeuse Noire. oldworldwinery.com

Sunce Winery & Vineyard, Santa Rosa: Owners Frane and Janae Franicevic cultivate a global snapshot of four dozen- plus wines, including rare Lagrein, Negroamaro, Rosa del Peru and Trincadeira varietals. suncewinery.com

By the team of Tina Caputo, Sarah Doyle, Imane Hanine, Heather Irwin, Peg Melnik, Abigail Peterson and Carey Sweet.

Chef Stéphane Saint Louis’s Dining Journey Comes Full Circle With Upcoming Petaluma Restaurant

Table Culture Provisions’ co-owner/chef Stéphane Saint Louis inside the construction zone of his new casual dining, full-bar Bijou restaurant Friday, April 4, 2025, in downtown Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Stéphane Saint Louis has already made his mark on the Sonoma County dining scene, from cheffing at Petaluma favorite Della Fattoria and The Shuckery to launching his first restaurant, the recently Michelin-recommended Table Culture Provisions.

But with two young boys in tow, Saint Louis and his wife and business partner Marta Saint Louis are just getting started. Together with co-owner Steven Vargas, who also worked at Della, they open their second Petaluma eatery, Bijou, this month.

Saint Louis promises “bistronomy,” a blend of French cooking technique and Sonoma County seasonal farm-to-table. Bijou’s opening will draw attention for more than just its menu or its pedigree. The restaurant occupies a prime downtown location previously housing Whisper Sisters and then Easy Rider. With Saint Louis moving in, the corner — and Petaluma’s culinary reputation — appear to be in good hands.

Petaluma restaurant Table Culture Provisions’ co-owner/chef Stéphane Saint Louis
Table Culture Provisions’ co-owner/chef Stéphane Saint Louis inside the construction zone of his new casual dining, full-bar Bijou restaurant Friday, April 4, 2025, in downtown Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Petaluma Roots

I’ve always felt welcome here. When I worked for Kathleen [Weber] at Della, she would introduce me to all of these local purveyors, whether it was the owners of Cowgirl Creamery, or Straus, or Liberty Duck. Even as a sous chef, I had already developed these farmer-to-chef relationships. I continued on, and built a name for myself, a reputation in the community. And Petaluma always felt like home to me.

Full-Circle Moment

I used to come here all the time. I used to hold my kitchen team meetings in this space. During Covid, I would leave The Shuckery, and I would look at this building right across the street, and I’d think, “Man, one day, I think I’m going to get this place.” Six months ago, when I saw the ad come up [for Easy Rider], I didn’t even think twice. I called the broker and I said, “I want it. Take the ad down.”

A Family Affair

We live next to TCP, so my oldest will jump the fence and come to the restaurant and say, “Daddy, can I get some fries,” or “Can I get some steak,” “Can I get some scallops?” My youngest, every time he comes in, he tastes every single sauce I have going, and he gets so excited about it. Marta is taking care of the kids and running the business. And then we can go to the farm, and the boys can play outside and harvest strawberries, or whatever it is. It’s a lifestyle.

Facing the Unknown

Bijou is much more casual, faster-paced, higher-volume. It’s going to be a whole different ballgame. We’re going to have a lot more staff, more variety of guests coming in, a more affordable price point. I am just looking forward to the challenge, and I’m not afraid of it. Whatever challenges that are going to come with this, I’m ready to face them. I live for this.

What Is Stir-Fried Ice Cream and Why Do Santa Rosa Teens Love It?

A Strawberry Cheesecake Premium Roll at Pink Sugar Creamery in Santa Rosa Tuesday, May 20, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Furry pink swings, a wall of shimmering pink mermaid scales, retro-style pink pay phones and pink velvet barstools make for an oh-so-Instagrammable moment at Pink Sugar, Santa Rosa’s first Thai rolled ice cream shop.

A steady stream of teens files into the former Yogurt Farms space (1224 Mendocino Ave.), mostly checking out each other but also sneaking videos of the mesmerizing ice cream-making process.

Here’s how it works: Straus organic ice cream mix is poured onto chilled steel plates that almost instantly freeze it. Dual spatulas then chop, pulverize and blend in candy, cookies, fruit or cake before the mixture is spread into a thin layer and scraped into tight, frozen curls. Also known as “stir-fried” ice cream, this Southeast Asian invention mimics the chopping and scraping motion of a stir fry.

Co-owner Julia Cochran makes a Rainbow Signature Roll with vanilla ice cream and Fruity Pebbles cereal at Pink Sugar Creamery in Santa Rosa Tuesday, May 20, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Co-owner Julia Cochran makes a Rainbow Signature Roll with vanilla ice cream and Fruity Pebbles cereal at Pink Sugar Creamery in Santa Rosa Tuesday, May 20, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Pink Sugar rolled ice cream
A Rainbow Signature Roll topped with candy and Fruity Pebbles at Pink Sugar Creamery in Santa Rosa Tuesday, May 20, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

While the whole thing is more theater than practicality, the selling point is an inexhaustible number of mix-and-match flavor combinations.

To avoid decision fatigue (or ordering overwhelm), check out the menu in advance —  it’s long and complicated. Or just take a seat on the swing and ponder options like the Brookie ($13), made with the standard vanilla base, fudge brownies, cookie dough and hot fudge; Cinnamon Toast Crunch ($12) with cinnamon toast cereal and caramel; or Banana Pudding ($13) with fresh bananas, caramel sauce and Nilla Wafers.

Dairy-free oat milk rolled ice cream is also available, along with fluffy mini pancakes (15 for $10) and soft-serve ice cream served in Taiyaki, a sweet fish-shaped cake. Don’t miss the Dubai strawberry cup with kadayif, pistachio, chocolate and fresh berries.

Open 3-10 p.m. Tuesday; 1-10 p.m. Wednesday to Thursday; 2 p.m. to midnight Friday to Saturday and 2-10 p.m. Sunday. 1224 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, Instagram.com/pinksugarcreamery

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Acre Pasta Soft Opens in Sebastopol With Affordable, Family-Style Dishes

Lumache with porcini cream, Mycopia mushrooms and scallions at Acre Pasta at The Barlow in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

Steve Decosse, owner of Acre Pizza and founder of Acre Coffee (now Avid Coffee), has soft opened a new, budget-friendly pasta spot at The Barlow.

Decosse, who previously ran several restaurants in San Francisco, has hired chef Ian Marks to create a simple menu of classic pasta dishes with optional add-ons like burrata, pancetta, Mycopia mushrooms and meatballs.

Pasta options includes spaghetti with “Sunday red sauce” ($12); housemade tagliatelle ($17); pappardelle with Bolognese ragu and burrata ($22); lumache with porcini cream ($24); and garganelli in arrabiata sauce ($20).

Acre Pasta
Spaghetti with Sunday sauce and burrata at Acre Pasta at The Barlow in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

Several sauces are vegan, including a creamy cashew-based pesto (you’d never guess it’s dairy-free). Family-style dishes like lasagna are in the works as Sunday specials.

I’ll be doing an in-depth review soon, but an early visit left me impressed, and I spent most of the weekend eating the delicious leftovers. Acre Pasta is at 6770 McKinley St., Sebastopol (across from Sushi Kosho). Official opening May 21.

Current hours are 4-8 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday; 4-9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Future lunch and expanded dinner hours coming soon. Instagram.com/acrepasta

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Healdsburg Named Among Best Small Towns in the West by USA Today

The Healdsburg Plaza. (Sonoma County Tourism)

Travel and lifestyle guide USA Today 10Best recently released a roundup of the “10 best small towns in the West.” From the mountain ranges of Utah to the Oregon coast, one Sonoma County locale shined as a must-visit for small-town luxe: Healdsburg.

The list, curated by a panel of editors and voted on by readers, highlights charming, scenic western towns with diverse offerings for locals and visitors. Clinching the No. 3 spot, Healdsburg ranked on the 10Best list for its “award-winning wineries, farm-to-table dining and a walkable town square.”

It’s not the first time (nor will it be the last) that the north county town of just over 11,000 people was lauded by national publications. Condé Nast Traveler ranked Healdsburg among the best cities in the United States (for the second time) in October 2024. A year prior, Travel + Leisure magazine called it “the jewel of California Wine Country.”

From foodies and wine lovers to outdoor enthusiasts, people can find plenty to do in the delightful town of Healdsburg. Here’s where to start:

Dining

Pistachio Financier’s from Quail & Condor bakery Monday, Jan. 6, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Pistachio Financier’s from Quail & Condor bakery Monday, Jan. 6, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Acorn Cafe in Healdsburg
Lemon Ricotta Hotcake with house lemon curd, ricotta, oat crumble and lemon lavender ice cream from Acorn Cafe owner Beryl Adler in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Healdsburg’s dining scene might be one of the biggest draws of this Sonoma County town. The three-Michelin-starred SingleThread restaurant consistently ranks among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. And SingleThread alums Melissa Yanc and Sean McGaughey started their own wildly successful bakery, Quail & Condor, which The New York Times named among the best in the country.

Aside from the highly publicized eateries, other Healdsburg restaurants are worth their share of praise. For breakfast, it’s hard to go wrong with the new Acorn Cafe, which boasts an inspired tiramisu French toast, a Seussian green eggs and ham, and the fattest pancakes ever. Lunchtime is a breeze — head to Iggy’s Organic Burger for a solid burger (and side of Angela’s Organic ice cream), or The Parish Cafe for Louisiana-inspired po’boys on Costeaux French bread.

Roof 106 at The Matheson in Healdsburg
Pizza and cocktails at Roof 106 at The Matheson in Healdsburg. (The Matheson)

For dinner, bring a partner to the hidden gem Guiso Latin Fusion for Salvadoran pupusas and Caribbean paella. In search of great cocktails to enjoy with dinner and friends? Chef Dustin Valette’s epic three-story restaurant and cocktail bar, The Matheson and Roof 106, has you covered with an ever-changing menu and a rooftop cocktail lounge.

Wine

Healdsburg is awash with tasting rooms pouring Wine Country’s finest, but that doesn’t mean you have to spend an arm and a leg to get a taste of the good life. The unassuming Arnot-Roberts tasting room, hidden in an industrial setting off Healdsburg Avenue, pours uncommon wine varieties (like Trousseau and Falanghina) at a shaded, rustic tasting bar. Tastings are $45 per person.

At Arnot-Roberts winery in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Arnot-Roberts)
At Arnot-Roberts winery in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Arnot-Roberts)

For last-minute weekends plans, J Vineyards & Winery offers its Signature Tasting flight ($35 per person) daily, no reservations necessary (except for groups of six or more). This summer, the winery will host its Bubbles & Beignets event (July 6), serving up fresh beignets paired with estate wines — a great primer for Bastille Day (July 14).

Recreation

With premium access to the Russian River, Healdsburg’s Veterans Memorial Beach gets tons of action as the weather heats up. Beachgoers can partake in sunbathing, swimming and paddling — made even more accessible via the nearby Rivers Edge Kayak & Canoe Trips, offering watercraft rentals as well as guided paddle trips.

Veterans Memorial Beach in Healdsburg
Clockwise from left, Jen Heskett, Aaron Gonzales, Jim Ship and Brittany Ship float around in the Russian River to beat the hot weather at Veterans Memorial Beach in Healdsburg. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

People can enjoy the area’s classic redwoods at Riverfront Regional Park, which features hiking, biking and horseback riding trails around a scenic lake. It’s also a great place for a large group picnic — grab all the provisions you need at Big John’s Market.

With the town’s vast assortment of eateries, wineries, art galleries and more, there are endless possibilities for a perfect day in Healdsburg.

Sonoma County’s Strawberry Stands Carry a Surprising Story

The Stony Point Strawberry stand in north Petaluma Wednesday, May 15, 2024. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

On a late May weekend, the lines routinely stretch several customers deep at farmer Lao Saetern’s strawberry stand, along a busy stretch of Highway 12 at the border of Santa Rosa and Sebastopol. It’s the same story 25 miles away at popular Watmaugh Strawberries, just outside the town of Sonoma, where Torn Saetern helps run the 10-acre farm his parents started in 2001.

Torn and Lao are cousins. Their families are from Laos, but they are ethnically Mien, a clan from China that moved into Southeast Asia a few centuries ago. During the Vietnam War, the CIA was engaged in a shadow war in Laos to stop the spread of communism. Thousands of Mien people who helped the U.S. effort were forced to flee with their families to refugee camps in Thailand or risk being killed.

During the 1970s and 1980s, many Mien people, including several members of the Saetern family, relocated to the Central Valley, where they learned to grow strawberries. Today, there are at least five strawberry stands in Sonoma County run by Mien families.

“We all learned the same method … A gentleman in Fresno taught one guy, and it spread from there,” explains Torn Saetern. “It’s why our buildings all look the same.”

Sonoma County’ strawberry stand
Torn Saetern loads up on flats of strawberries between rushes of customer at the strawberry stand on Watmaugh Road at Arnold Drive in Sonoma Wednesday, May 15, 2024. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
strawberry stand
Muoang Saetern and her husband Ryan make the long drive from Visalia to run the sales from the Highway 12 strawberry stand near Sebastopol for their father Lao so he can spend the weekend caring for the equipment in the fields. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Koy Saichow, who owns Stony Point Strawberry Farm in Petaluma, is also Mien but was born in Thailand. Her Petaluma stand is arguably the most charming of the local berry stands. A mint-chip ice-cream-colored building on a country road, it’s flanked by a cheery flower garden. According to Saichow, hers is the only certified organic operation out of the Mien-owned local stands. Her parents, who are still the backbone of the farm, started farming organically in 2008, keeping pests at bay through companion planting.

“Onions and garlic are companion plants for the strawberries. Growing it goes together. It helps with bugs, but it’s harder, a lot harder than other growers,” Saichow says.

Back at Lao’s, as fresh supplies dwindle, Lao calls to his wife Nai, who’s been out in the field, and, three minutes later, a truck skids to a stop outside. Nai hops out and begins offloading bucket after bucket into the back room to be sorted — 18 gallons in all.

“We don’t keep track of how many,” Saetern says, as he hurries back and forth taking customers’ orders, while gently dumping berries into plastic baskets. “We’re too busy to count.”

This story — which won second place in the Food Writing/Reporting category at the CNPA’s California Journalism Awards — was originally published in The Press Democrat. Read the full story here.

Food and Wine Is Expensive at BottleRock. Here’s How to Get the Best Bang for Your Buck

Sushi from Morimoto at BottleRock Napa Valley. (Courtesy of BottleRock Napa Valley)

I vividly remember the first-ever BottleRock Napa Valley, held in May 2013. A friend flew in all the way from New York to join me for what sounded like an exciting extravaganza — but after an hour of wandering through the dusty, bare dirt lot that was the Napa Valley Expo grounds, we left.

At that point, we had already spent a good amount of money on mediocre sandwiches from what looked like shipping container booths, along with warm, grocery-store-quality wine served in plastic cups. (I recall shelling out $20 for skimpy pours.)

That first BottleRock was nearly a Fyre Festival. Today, the music, culinary, wine and nightclub-style celebration feels more like posh Pebble Beach. I’ve gone every year since the inaugural event and it just keeps getting better — especially for general admission attendees, who don’t have access to the fancy Skydeck, Suites or Platinum Lounge, where top-shelf food and drinks are served to those willing to pay up to $8,995 for a three-day pass.

BottleRock
Take some time to stroll around the sprawling property at BottleRock Napa Valley before diving into the eats and drinks. (Kim Fox)

It’s still pricey for us everyday folks — one-day general admission tickets are $233 and parking isn’t cheap, either. Last year, food and wine prices remained firmly in the double digits — even a warm pretzel required an extra charge for cheese sauce.

Expect to pay around $16 for two average chicken tenders and a handful of fries, $13 for a mainstream Cabernet Sauvignon, $12 for a 12-ounce can of beer and $18 for a cucumber lemonade gin cocktail.

Best bets at BottleRock

So here’s my tip: before diving into the eats and drinks, take a stroll around the sprawling property. Scope out what really appeals to you and plan your budget carefully — there’s some excellent fare to be found amid the more state fair-style offerings.

Keep your eyes peeled for sure bets like Morimoto Asia, Chispa, Loveski Deli, Ristorante Allegria, Boon Fly Café, Sarmentine Artisan Boulanger, Gerard’s Paella and Compline.

BottleRock
A few friends have lunch near the Williams Sonoma Culinary Stage during BottleRock Napa Valley 2024 held in Napa on Saturday, May 25, 2024. (Erik Castro / for The Press Democrat)

There’s also Sumo Dog, which serves up head-scratching but delicious creations — like their signature Angus beef frank topped with wasabi relish, pickled peppers, spicy mayo, teriyaki sauce, furikake, minced onion and nori (they offer pork sausage or Beyond Meat dogs, too).

Don’t be shy about hovering near the picnic tables in the culinary gardens and asking guests how they liked their meal. Over the years, I’ve never had anyone be offended when I asked for advice — like whether last year’s birria grilled cheese from El Garage was worth the $20 price tag (a resounding “yes,” even at $20).

An improved wine lineup

On the wine side, the lineup has seriously improved, now reflecting the prestige of BottleRock’s location in one of the world’s finest wine regions.

This year’s festival will feature over 100 vintages and varietals, including premium brands like Duckhorn Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc at the main concession stands. Wine cabanas on the General Admission lawns will offer selections from Clif Family Winery, Schramsberg Vineyards, Beaulieu Vineyards, Venge Vineyards, Mumm Sparkling, Silverado Vineyards and Bennett Lane Winery.

BottleRock
BottleRock Napa Valley will offer selections from Clif Family Winery, Schramsberg Vineyards, Beaulieu Vineyards, Venge Vineyards, Mumm Sparkling, Silverado Vineyards and Bennett Lane Winery. (Yvonne Gougelet)

Be sure to swing by the wine garden to check out new additions like Bella Union by Far Niente and Cliff Lede Vineyards — labels typically reserved for the Skydeck, Suites and Platinum Lounge.

Like nearly all large-scale Wine Country events, participation is expensive for vendors — it can cost thousands just to get on BottleRock’s approved list. So it’s understandable that many smaller, boutique restaurants and wineries have been priced out in the past.

But now, at least, our hard-earned money is delivering much better bang for the buck.

2025 BottleRock Napa Valley

Where: 575 Third St., Napa (at Napa Valley Expo)

When: May 23-25

Tickets: bottlerocknapavalley.com

‘I Sell Happiness’: Cycling Santa Rosa Ice Cream Man Delivers a Smile with Every Treat

The ice cream vendor is on the move for hours each day, from one end of Roseland to the other. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)

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The ice cream man is ready to pack up and move to his next spot. It’s 2:30 on a Friday afternoon, and so far, he has sold only 10 cups of his homemade treats. Looking up at the sun, he wipes sweat from his forehead with a towel. He’s just lugged a large bag of ice on his shoulder across a parking lot. Now, using a wooden stick, he packs ice deep in the crevices between 2-gallon buckets of ice cream, sprinkling rock salt over the top to make it last longer.

But before he can roll out his cart, more customers finally come by his current spot in a fast-food parking lot near Santa Rosa’s Sebastopol Road. Olivia, who works at a discount store nearby, walks over on her break. “I don’t have my purse with me,” she says, apologizing. The vendor just smiles, telling her not to worry.

Scooping up her favorite flavor, mango, he sprinkles Tajin and drizzles tangy chamoy on top until it looks like a blood-orange sunset. He knows she will pay him the next time he sees her. She’s been eating his ice cream for more than a decade, she says. It’s the same regional style of ice cream — often called nieve de garrafa after the small, wooden carafes traditionally used in homemade ice cream churns — that she enjoyed as a kid growing up in a tiny beach town on the Mexican coast.

Roseland ice cream
The vendor drizzles tangy chamoy on top of his homemade ice cream. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)

Loaded with fresh fruit bought from local markets, his sweet frozen concoctions are made with whole milk, evaporated milk and half-and-half. They’re often icier and less creamy than American ice creams, with a texture that falls somewhere between sorbet and snow cone. They are alive with flavors you rarely find at traditional grocery stores, including elote, a popular sweet corn style that takes all day to cook; mamey, a Central American fruit with hints of sweet potato and caramel; queso, made with Philadelphia cream cheese; tuna (prickly pear cactus fruit); and chongo, a milky, cinnamon-spiced version of the popular chongos zamoranos dessert from Michoacán.

It makes a difference that he takes the time to make the ice cream with his own hands, says Olivia, before she heads back to work.

Roseland ice cream
Homemade ice creams, packed tightly in ice. The ice cream vendor can usually net around $200 a day. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)

ALTHOUGH THE VENDOR has heard this compliment before, he still laughs and shakes his head, almost embarrassed. His thin gray mustache and wavy silver hair fit his patient demeanor. When he smiles, his mouth opens wide and his eyes close to a squint. In his early 70s, he is known by the honorific Don, or elder. But the children who flock to his cart from all over Roseland call him señor de las probaditas, or “the man who gives little tastes.” (We are not using his name given concerns about potential immigration enforcement activity.)

The vendor carries several hundred plastic spoons in a small plastic bag that hangs from the cart. He pulls one out when a boy approaches to ask for a taste of peach ice cream. After a few more tastes, he settles on chocolate. His sister chooses mango, and their mother, Ana, gets elote, which is also his own favorite. Ana says the milky, sweet corn flavor reminds her of the cobbled streets of Santa Clara del Cobre in Michoacán, where she was raised.

“I remember as a kid, when we would get out of school, the ice cream man would be there waiting every day,” she said. Her favorite day of the year was April 30, a holiday celebrated throughout Mexico as el Día del Niño, when the ice cream man would give all the kids in the neighborhood free ice cream.

Roseland ice cream vendor
The Roseland ice cream vendor, known as the honorific Don. But the children who flock to his cart from all over Roseland call him señor de las probaditas, or “the man who gives little tastes.” (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)
Roseland ice cream
The vendor of Roseland makes ice cream in a style known as nieve de garrafa, with a texture that lies somewhere between sorbet and snow cone. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)

A small player in a close community that prides itself on resilience, he is one of many street vendors and small business owners, both licensed and unlicensed, who drive the economic engine of Roseland — a neighborhood built on street life and market culture that has as much to do with the way commerce works in Mexico as it does in America.

Everything he has, he has made on his own. His ice cream, his cart, his innovation and spirit of survival. But he is not alone. The same spirit lives in the woman selling flats of oranges in the big-box parking lot, in the tamale-cart man selling to construction workers at sunrise, in the snack sellers who roll by youth soccer games at the park on Saturdays.

But these are different times. Since January, as the Trump administration continues to order immigration enforcement actions in communities around the country, the specter of deportation hangs heavy. “The way people feel is that it’s not a matter of if, it’s a matter of when,” says Marcos Suarez, the business diversity program manager for the Sonoma County Economic Development Board. Over the past few months, Suarez says he has noticed fewer street vendors along Sebastopol Road, especially those who sell from their cars in parking lots.

Street food businesses have a long local history. Santa Rosa founding father Julio Carillo once sold tamales in what is now Courthouse Square. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)
Street food businesses have a long local history. Santa Rosa founding father Julio Carillo once sold tamales in what is now Courthouse Square. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)

The vendor says he worries that ICE might make a sweep through Roseland. But they’re supposed to be going after criminals, he tells himself. “I don’t get in trouble. I don’t drink and drive. I don’t even own a car. I only drive a tricycle.”

For many, the neighborhood’s food culture is a lifeline in difficult times. Suarez says traditional cuisine like ice cream triggers memories for people all along this stretch of Sebastopol Road. It might be the menudo at a particular restaurant, he says, or a bottle of authentic Mexican Coke made with cane sugar, or the herbal remedy cola de caballo, often taken for indigestion or infections. “You gotta understand, there are a lot of people here that haven’t gone home in 30 or 40 years, because they can’t,” says Suarez. “They could, but they won’t be able to come back. So, anything that reminds them of Mexico is very special to them. It’s nostalgia.”

Roseland ice cream
Homemade ice cream drizzled with chamoy from the Roseland vendor. The first ice cream flavor he ever tasted was limón. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)

THE FIRST FLAVOR of ice cream he ever tasted was limón. The vendor is the second youngest in a family of 11 from Villa de Ayala, a small town in central Mexico not far from Cuernavaca. One year, on Mexican Independence Day, a school parade led to the town plaza where a vendor gave free ice cream to the kids. The only flavor was limón, dressed up with a bit of Parmesan cheese and a thin galleta Maria. It was almost magical, the way it melted in his mouth, he remembers.

His parents grew corn, beans and tomatillos, selling their produce at the local market. He made it as far as the fifth grade before he quit school to start working on the farm. When he was 18, he followed his sister to Mexico City. After working in a Pascual Boing soda factory, he learned to make limón ice cream from a recipe he got from his younger brother. Listening to feedback from customers, he continued to experiment, eventually perfecting other flavors like strawberry and chocolate.

Five decades later, ice cream is a means of survival. Since he arrived in Santa Rosa in the mid-1990s, he’s washed dishes, cooked at restaurants, and worked a warehouse gig. But ice cream is the only job where on a busy day, he can make over $1,000, selling $6 and $8 cups along with bowls of esquites street corn and mangonadas with sliced fruit. But those flush days are few and far between — a typical day nets more like $200, and margins are tight. He estimates he spends $1,600 a month in local markets on fresh fruit, evaporated milk and other ingredients.

The Roseland ice cream vendor also sells esquites street corn. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)
The Roseland ice cream vendor also sells esquites street corn. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)

Over the years, he’s learned to watch his back. Four years ago, he was pushing his cart home one night, when a man ran up to him with a gun, yelling “Give me the money!” When the gun, which he later realized was likely fake, wouldn’t fire, the man chased him around the cart a few times before hitting him with the stick he uses to pack ice around his buckets. He wound up in the hospital, with several staples in his head — but “he never got my money,” he says with a smile.

THE VENDOR USED TO SELL alongside his grandson, often stopping with him in the shade of a short, scrubby pine next to a soccer field. These days, more than 15 years later, he is alone, parked under a different tree near a fast-food drive-thru.

Some days, he trades ice cream for a hamburger and fries at the fast-food joint, but this day, he has other plans. As he packs up his cart to head out, his destination is another small pine at the other end of Sebastopol Road. In black running shoes, jeans and a fleece vest, he will push the cart nearly 3 miles by the end of the day.

The ice cream vendor is on the move for hours each day, from one end of Roseland to the other. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)
The ice cream vendor is on the move for hours each day, from one end of Roseland to the other. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)

He secures his wares like a rag-and-bone man. A small trash can is tied down with a bungee cord. An old queso fresco bucket holds his ice-cream scoops. The tall pole hung with bags of chicharrones de harina teeters as he leans into the cart, pushing with all his might to get it rolling. He made the cart by welding the back half of a bike to a two-wheeled trailer. A tricycle of sorts, it looks like he could hop on the seat and ride it, but he says it weighs several hundred pounds and is too hard to pedal and steer. Instead, he pushes it on foot, sometimes kicking out the back wheel, almost like a boat rudder, when he needs to turn sharply.

By this time, there’s a Friday afternoon vibe in the air. Kids are out of school. Ranchera music pulses from a passing car. Construction crews getting off work early carry cases of Modelo across a parking lot. Rolling past a brick-and-mortar ice cream parlor (what he calls “factory-made ice cream”), he turns right on Sebastopol Road.

Roseland’s main drag is bustling with auto shops, jewelry stores that double as soccer shops, palm readers, Mexican restaurants and more than 20 food trucks. In the late 1800s, long before the existence of Highway 12, this was a gravel road, the only east-west route between Santa Rosa and Sebastopol. Now it’s the heart and soul of Mexican culture in Santa Rosa. Like the Mission in San Francisco or Boyle Heights in Los Angeles, the color palette seems to change on this side of town, whether it’s the bright pastels of quinceañera dolls in the windows of a party supply store, the soft blue halo of a sidewalk altar to Our Lady of Guadalupe, or the red clay hues of the Rancho Mendoza supermercado.

Looking west along Sebastopol Road, through the heart of the Roseland neighborhood in Santa Rosa, March 23, 2025. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)
Looking west along Sebastopol Road, through the heart of the Roseland neighborhood in Santa Rosa, March 23, 2025. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)

Legend has it that botanist Luther Burbank told an early landowner he should call the flat, western ranchlands Roseland for the clusters of roses that bloomed in front of farmhouses. The name stuck. But Pruneland might have been more appropriate, since prunes were far more plentiful. “I remember when it was all prune trees where FoodMaxx is now,” says Ignacio “Don Nacho” Alvarez, longtime owner of Joyeria Maria along Sebastopol Road, across from the former Mitote Food Park.

Not quite downtown, and not quite the suburbs, Roseland has always been “the west side of town.” And there’s history to prove it. On a Saturday morning in June 1876, an angry mob broke into the Santa Rosa jail and seized a 58-year-old man accused of murder, driving him in a wagon “about a mile out of town on the Sebastopol Road,” according to newspapers, where they hung him from a tree. More than a century later, in the same part of town, angry protestors held several rallies in front of the former Dollar Tree on Sebastopol Road after 13-year-old Andy Lopez was fatally shot by a sheriff’s deputy. More recently, vocal crowds rallying for “A Day Without Immigrants,” marched here from Courthouse Square.

He bounces back and forth between the sidewalk and a no man’s land alongside the busy road, a path he traces almost every day. He doesn’t know it, but he’s following in the footsteps of a fellow ice cream vendor from another era: Feliciano Benincasa, who started selling out of his white Dodge truck in the 1940s, before becoming one of the most popular business owners in Santa Rosa.

Roseland ice cream
The Roseland ice cream vendor, known as the honorific Don. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)
Roseland ice cream
Homemade ice cream from the Roseland ice cream vendor. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)

He passes by an orange El Roy’s truck, where he occasionally trades ice cream for tacos, and La Texanita restaurant, where Guy Fieri once filmed an episode of “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives.” He nods at a paletero, or popsicle man, in a wide-brimmed hat, pushing a much smaller cart filled with store-bought popsicles that he sells for a few dollars more than he bought them for.

Up and down Sebastopol Road, people are hawking street food, often tamales or other easily carried meals. On busy days outside Chula’s Party Shop, owner Juana Cortes parks a cart with cups of sliced fruit for sale. And at Tortilleria Apatzingan, a woman serves up creamy Jell-O cups. These small-scale entrepreneurs are a tradition that goes back centuries. Years after deeding the property that would become downtown Santa Rosa, local founding father Julio Carrillo scraped by selling his wife’s tamales from a cart in Courthouse Square.

“In Mexico, that’s what you do,” says Suarez, who remembers family stories of his own grandmother selling tacos on the streets. “When you’re trying to make ends meet, you turn to that entrepreneurial spirit, and you sell food.”

The ice cream vendor is on the move for hours each day, from one end of Roseland to the other. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)
The ice cream vendor is on the move for hours each day, from one end of Roseland to the other. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)
People line up for the Roseland vendor's homemade ice cream. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)
People line up for the Roseland vendor’s homemade ice cream. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)

GLANCING OVER HIS SHOULDER, he pushes his cart out into traffic, carving a diagonal line across the road. A line of cars slows to a stop without honking, as if it’s something they see every day. He’s crossing to see the women who work at a local flower shop and a photography store, a halfway point where he can catch his breath and visit with friends. In early May each year, he stops near here to give away free ice cream to children and their mothers. It’s his way of celebrating both el Día del Niño on April 30 and Mexican Mother’s Day on May 10.

A few blocks farther down, he leaves his cart on the sidewalk while he ducks into a small market to buy a half-pound of queso fresco, a serrano chile and an avocado. At his cart, he cuts the fresh ingredients with a knife, rolling them in tortillas for a late lunch.

By the time he reaches the other end of the road, he is tired. He splashes water on his face and wipes his face with the towel again. He rolls the cart into a familiar spot, where the grass is still flattened from the day before, setting up shop in the shade of another lonely little tree. Someone driving by in a car honks and waves, and he waves back. He often buys menudo from Lola’s to take home for dinner. When he does, he gives ice cream to the women who cook it. It’s his way of thanking them.

Roseland ice cream
Homemade ice cream from the Roseland ice cream vendor. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)
Roseland ice cream
Homemade ice cream from the Roseland ice cream vendor. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)

It’s not long before a couple he recognizes stops by. They laugh about how long it’s been since they’ve seen each other. The husband, Jorge, is from Mexico City, and his wife grew up in Patzcuaro, which she says is famous for its ice cream. Both retired, they drove over an hour from Vallejo this day to get food a few blocks away at the Delicias Elenita taco truck, “and to eat this ice cream that we can’t get anywhere else,” Jorge says.

A few days earlier, in his garage, while he offered samples of his ice cream, laid out in a long freezer like you would see inside an ice cream parlor, he shared how loyal customers will log his phone number into their cell phones and call him if he misses a day, asking, “where are you?”

It feels good to be wanted, he says, joking that he might be one of the most popular people in all of Roseland. By now, he realizes, “More than ice cream, I sell happiness.”

The vendor sells homemade ice cream along Sebastopol Road in Roseland. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)
The vendor sells homemade ice cream along Sebastopol Road in Roseland. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)

He used to walk up and down Sebastopol Road with his grandson, but his grandson moved to Tijuana. When his wife would work the cart with him, often during popular events like Cinco de Mayo, he used to tease her that her servings were too small. But she died four years ago, and now he lives with his son. His other three children live in Tijuana.

Both of his parents lived into their mid-80s. Now in his 70s, the vendor hopes to work the streets for another decade before he retires. It would be easier on his body if he could get an electric cart, but the $2,500 cost is out of reach for now.

Customers will often ask for his recipes, but he remains tight-lipped. “I tell them, ‘I can sell it you for $80,000,’” he says, laughing. He thinks his recipes will probably die with him. “My children are not interested in selling ice cream. I will take the recipes with me to the grave.”

Looking around at the rush hour crowds coming in and out of Lola’s Market, he talks about how people like to buy ice cream on Friday evenings. But you should see the weekends, he says — that’s the busiest.

People line up for the Roseland vendor's homemade ice cream. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)
People line up for the Roseland vendor’s homemade ice cream. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)

He checks the melting ice with his stick, poking it deeper into the cracks between the buckets and covering it with fresh towels. He’ll sell ice cream until the sun sets, making around $250, and then he’ll make his way back up Sebastopol Road, past the jewelry store, where people line up at 5 a.m. Saturday morning to catch the bus to Michoacán for $240 one way. He’ll pass the altar to Our Lady of Guadalupe, and the spot where several months ago a demonstrator held a sign that read Nadie es ilegal en tierra robada (“No one is illegal on stolen land”).

Then back at home, he will restock his ice cream buckets, fry up a new batch of chicharrones, and fall fast asleep.

Produced by Raquel Issenberg of La Prensa Sonoma.

Bachan’s Founder Justin Gill Shares Favorite Sonoma County Spots

Justin Gill adds his Bachan’s Japanese Barbecue Sauce onto grilled rib-eye in Santa Rosa on Wednesday, Sept. 11, 2019. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

Justin Gill is a third-generation Sebastopol native who transformed his grandmother’s recipe for Japanese-style barbecue sauce into a multimillion-dollar business.

Gill, who now lives in Santa Rosa with his wife and three daughters, grew up steeped in the outdoorsy west county culture, riding bikes through the hills and heading out to the coast to surf with friends. His supremely popular barbecue sauce is a savory-sweet, umami-rich concoction that goes great on everything from grilled tuna to burgers to oysters and more.

Distribution has expanded nationwide, but locals know you can find the extra-large bottles at Costco — and yes, you’re going to want that jumbo size on hand, especially as summer grilling season shapes up. bachans.com

Justin Gill
Justin Gill, founder and CEO of Bachan’s, a local Japanese barbecue sauce company. (Courtesy Justin Gill / Bachan’s)
Some of Justin Gill’s favorite local places

Journeyman Meat Co.

“We barbecue a lot as a family, so it’s always fun to find a place like Journeyman Meat Co., with quality meats and unusual cuts.” Gill is a member of their salumi club and likes to stop in for the lunch steak special, grilled to order. 404 Center St., Healdsburg. 707-395-6328, journeymanmeat.com

Crooked Goat Brewing

In July, Gill will host the yearly Bachan’s Day celebration at Crooked Goat Brewing at The Barlow. “We had like 600 people there last year for free food and free beer.” Last year, he also gave away a Bachan’s surfboard. Check bachans.com for details on this year’s party (July 11). 120 Morris St., Sebastopol. 707-827-3893, crookedgoatbrewing.com

A glass of beer is dispensed from a tap at Crooked Goat Brewing, in Sebastopol, on Wednesday, October 12, 2016. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
A glass of beer is dispensed from a tap at Crooked Goat Brewing in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

Trail House

Gill is a big cyclist — road, mountain and gravel. Now that he’s based in Santa Rosa, it takes longer to get out to Willow Creek, so he often hits the trails at Trione-Annadel State Park. Before or after a ride is time for drinks at Trail House. “The vibe is great, with people from all walks of life, people with their road kits still on having meetings on the computer. It’s like ‘Cheers’ for bike people.” 4036 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa. 707-843-4943, incycle.com/pages/retailer/trail-house

Molcajete Poblano of roasted poblano chile, chicken, chorizo, queso Panela, onions, radish and cactus from Los Molcajetes Bar & Grill in Rincon Valley on Wednesday, September 9, 2020. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Molcajete Poblano with roasted vegetables, chicken, chorizo and queso Panela from Los Molcajetes Bar & Grill in Rincon Valley. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Los Molcajetes Bar & Grill

Gill finds the best margaritas and his favorite pollo asado every Friday night at Los Molcajetes Bar & Grill in Rincon Valley, near his home. “I love that place, the people who work there, the family that owns it.” 6599 Montecito Blvd., Santa Rosa. 707-791-7571, losmolcajetesbarandgrill.com

Salmon Creek

Gill, who grew up surfing along the coast, calls the break at Salmon Creek “a great wave by Northern California standards.” When he shows up, he almost always knows someone out on the water, and the beaches have a beautifully rustic quality that he loves. Sonoma Coast State Park, Highway 1, Bodega Bay. parks.ca.gov

Culinary Instructor Mei Ibach Shares Secrets on How to Be a Successful Chef

Malaysian cooking expert Mei Ibach. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Few are better qualified to take a long-range look at the state of chef education in the region than Mei Ibach. She has taught for over two decades — at Santa Rosa Junior College, where she was the first to teach a class in street food, at College of Marin, and for the past six years, as head of the culinary programs at Analy High School. She has also led culinary tours of Singapore and Malaysia and moonlights as a flavor consultant for Amy’s Kitchen.

Interest in culinary careers is growing, she says, especially among middle and high school students. At Analy, she is turning away upwards of 200 students each year because of a lack of space. “There is such a huge demand for this,” she says.

Many Analy students go on to earn a special diploma or continue higher culinary studies, and her high schoolers also lead monthly cooking demonstrations at the Sebastopol Farmers Market.

Mei Ibach
Malaysian cooking expert and culinary instructor Mei Ibach. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Respect for the work

Restaurant work is hard. The hallmark for any chef, anyone who wants to work in this industry — you’ve got to have that passion, that love for food and cooking. If you don’t have that in you, it’s not the right industry. And you don’t know until you actually work in a restaurant and get that practical soft-skill experience.

On an affordable education

I have a lot of students that say, “Chef Mei, I want to be a chef after I complete your program here. What should I do next? Should I go to CIA? Should I go to CCA?” And I say, oh, no, just spend two years at community college and start an internship — walk into one of our local restaurants and ask and get the experience you need. Because what we learn at the college level or even at the training school, is all the terminology and techniques, but all the soft skills you learn at the job… Get fundamental training at high school and then move on to the community college for the upper culinary arts.

Cultivating creativity
From chef Mei Ibach
From a whole roast chicken with curry powder, chef Mei Ibach created a leftover meal of stir-fry with rice-stick noodles, leftover chicken and spring vegetables. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

That level of learning comes from chefs that you admire and somebody who is good at their trade. The creativity part just comes (down) to time and spirit. Just be curious about things and try different things. My big part is I travel a lot, and every place I travel, the first thing I do is I always check out the restaurants and take cooking classes. That enhances and builds up my repertoire for appreciating other people’s work. Be willing to try different foods, even street food, and restaurants that offer the experience of different food flavors and presentations. To be a successful chef, you must have lifelong learning.

Hats off

There are so many young, up-and-coming chefs and it’s so exciting to see them all, turning something old to something new. Sometimes older chefs can be “this is how it’s been done, you cannot change it, you cannot improvise, these are the ingredients you’ve got to have.” But nowadays you see all the young up-and-coming chefs, and my hat’s off to them, you know — good for you. I’m so glad you are willing to try new things. chefmeiibach.com