Though our table was little more than a stained wood plank stretched between towering oaks, it was the best seat in the house. As spring-picked asparagus toast, frittata and piles of greens made their way to us from The Wild Poppy Cafe’s tiny kitchen, we clinked our mimosas and drank in the moment. And the cocktails.
The rambling outdoor patio of this perfectly imperfect Sebastopol restaurant (formerly Fork Roadhouse) has always been a magical place, full of nooks, crannies and hidden spaces to explore. And on a lovely west county morning perfumed with a hint of salt air, the space comes alive as rays of sunshine peek through the creekside canopy shading the outdoor patio; water bubbles distantly as it runs along ivy-covered banks, and mothers hum to toddlers in time with the Flamenco guitarist.
These moments drive home why Luther Burbank called our little slice of heaven “the chosen spot of all the earth.” His Gold Ridge Experiment Farm, where he developed more than 800 varieties of fruit and nut trees, flowers and vegetables, is just a few miles away (7777 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol). Traveling from Sebastopol toward Bodega Bay, you’ll pass acres of orchards and, if you’re lucky, see wild poppies growing along the road.
The journey to Wild Poppy is the destination when making the trek, which has always been a blessing and a curse for this west county location. Located well west of Sebastopol, you won’t stumble upon it unless you’re headed to or from the coast. But it’s well worth the detour, like Wild Flour Bakery in Freestone, Altamont General Store in Occidental, Americana or Rocker Oysterfeller’s in Valley Ford.
Wild Poppy opened in late April with chef Martin Maigaard, formerly of the Gypsy Cafe (now closed), helming the kitchen. The cafe is a family affair, with his wife, Danielle, working front of house with her sister, Emily. Chef Maigaard gets a hand in the kitchen from Emily’s partner, Andrew, and the Maigaards’ daughter, Anya, works as a food runner and baker (the chocolate chip cookies are her recipe).
Though locals had plenty to say about the vivid sky-blue exterior paint that replaced the quiet brick red on the roadhouse last winter, it certainly catches the eye with crisp white trim.
The menu changes frequently, but you’ll always find something to accompany you on the patio, including several vegetarian and vegan dishes. Indoor seating is also available. A small market is tucked into the cafe, offering wine, snacks and a collection of locally sourced clothing and gifts.
Wild Poppy is a welcome addition to the burgeoning west county food scene and a perfect breakfast and brunch pit stop for beachgoers.
Best Bets
Cosmic Queso ($12): Freshly made corn chips with a crisp crunch are the foundation for creamy cashew queso dip, a swirl of pepita chimichurri and a side of slaw. Shareable and highly addictive.
Kale Caesar ($13 full, $8 half): Piles of massaged kale (to soften the tough leaves) mixed with tart lemon-almond vinaigrette and Parmesan breadcrumbs. Simple but satisfying.
Baja Fish Tacos ($16): Cornmeal-fried rock cod is super tasty and gluten-free. Served on organic corn tortillas with yogurt, cilantro sauce and pepita chimichurri. Ours could have used more cilantro sauce; otherwise, it’s impressive.
Grilled Mushroom Sandwich, $16: If you’re a mycelium fan, this is a winner. Served on housemade focaccia with grilled mushrooms, walnut mushroom pate, microgreens, lemon aioli and frisky Mt. Tam cheese.
Daily Baked Goods: A mix of homemade pastries, including scones, focaccia and Anya’s chocolate chip cookies, are ideal companions for a day at the beach or an afternoon snack.
Wine, beer and nonalcoholic beverages are available, and a morning mimosa with fresh orange juice helps greet the day sweetly.
Open for brunch and lunch 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. 9890 Bodega Highway, Sebastopol, 707-503-6332, thewildpoppycafe.com.
