Estero Cafe Coming to Santa Rosa

Eggs Benedict at the Estero Cafe in Valley Ford. Facebook.
Eggs Benedict at the Estero Cafe in Valley Ford. (Courtesy of Estero Cafe)

The owners of Valley Ford’s Estero Cafe are opening a second location in Santa Rosa, according to co-owner Samantha Ramey.  

Taking over the former Pullman Kitchen in Santa Rosa, Ramey says it’s been a dream to be able to expand their farm to table comfort food to a larger audience. With the ink still drying on the lease, Ramey and her husband Ryan, hope to open the Railroad Square restaurant in early 2020.

“It’s been our longterm goal (to open a second restaurant) for so long and I always knew when the right location became available we’d do whatever we needed to jump,” said Ramey.

Owner/operator Samantha Ramey of Estero Cafe in Valley Ford, California on Wednesday, January 27, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Owner/operator Samantha Ramey of Estero Cafe in Valley Ford. (Alvin Jornada)

Estero Cafe’s “classic American farm to table” menu has made it a popular stop for diners headed to the coast.  Serving locally-sourced breakfast and lunch daily, dishes like chicken-fried Stemple Creek Ranch steak with country gravy and greens, Dungeness crab roll and King trumpet mushroom melt with Estero Gold cheese are local favorites.

Pullman Kitchen, owned by Chef Darren McRonald, closed in August 2019. The 205 Fifth Street location was home to Syrah Bistro for more than a decade before that.

Beauty and The Leaf: 15 Favorite Sonoma and Napa Spots for Fans of Fall

Wine Country is a traveler’s dream destination year round but autumn might very well be the best time to visit — at least if you’d like to pair wine-sipping with some leaf-peeping. While the end of summer means we say goodbye to pool days at Coppola and playing in the ocean by Salmon Creek, fall paints vineyards and parks in a golden hue while wineries ramp up for harvest and holiday festivities. If you love fall as much as we do, click through the gallery for the best Sonoma and Napa spots for taking in the season. 

Did we miss one of your favorite spots? Let us know in the comments.

‘PG&E Can Make Or Break Us’ Say Struggling Sonoma County Restaurateurs

Trish Davis doesn’t rely on machines when making her crusts. Each morning she rolls out the dough by hand at The Whole Pie in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Sonoma County restaurateurs are a plucky bunch. In the past two years, they’ve weathered fires, floods and tourism downturns — in addition to the everyday challenges of running a high-pressure, highly competitive business. But now, following the recent power shut-offs and Kincade fire evacuations, many are wondering whether they’ll be able to rebound.

Most damaging, according to restaurateurs, were gas and electric outages that were widespread and long-lasting throughout the county.

“Losing power and being evacuated is tough for small businesses.  We are forced to face the reality that PG&E now can make or break us in the name of safety,” says Shawn Hall of Sebastopol’s Gypsy Cafe.

She estimates a loss of $36,000 in sales, food costs and wages during the five-day power outage in West County. Hall says she paid employees even though the restaurant was closed.

On average, restaurants lose up to $4,700 during each power outage, according to the Sonoma County tourism bureau. That’s a drop in the bucket when the tallies have come in after the recent shut-offs.

Hall’s is a much-echoed fear running through the restaurant industry in the North Bay. Lost inventory, struggling staff, who have lost wages and affordable housing, and the ongoing fallout from visitors eschewing the usually-bustling October event season is taking a financial and mental toll.

“When the power finally came back on, we had to decide whether we were going to reopen or just call it a day,” says Trishia Davis of The Whole Pie in Santa Rosa.

Her small bakery lost thousands of dollars she could ill afford and strained staff.

“We decided to give it ten days,” she says of the difficult conversation she had with her business partner about whether to close or not.

“We met and surpassed our financial goal—just barely—because everyone is so kind. I asked for help, and people said yes. That’s so beautiful,” she says.

While the return of customers has been heartening, restaurants and their staff aren’t out of the woods by a long shot.

“In the event of a power shut down not only do we lose our inventory we also lose revenue from the lost banquet. Our employees suffer as they are, for the most part, hourly. Most insurance does not cover this type of event. Some do (in an) official evacuation, but many restaurants lost power who were not in evacuation zones. I think moving forward this will have big consequences for the Sonoma wedding business in the fall, in particular in October,” says Gerard Giudice of Sally Tomatoes in Rohnert Park.

Domenica Catelli, who co-owns Catelli’s in Geyserville, was hit particularly hard when her restaurant was shuttered for ten days.

She had a large out-of-town wedding party planned for her restaurant on Saturday, Oct. 26 and scrambled to find another restaurant and another venue for the wedding party. She pulled in favors from friends and thought she had the event under control when mass evacuations happened Saturday morning.

“We had to tell the bride the wedding had to be canceled that morning,” she says.

“We made it through this, but it’s hard to know how this is actually going to end up,” she says. Catelli worries about insurance (they received no insurance money after the Tubbs fire even though they had events canceled and their restaurant was all but inaccessible) as well as her staff.

“We’re gonna help out how we can. Some people have this as a second job, and they’re having a tough time,” she says. Some employees are eligible for unemployment during disasters, and restaurateurs hope to recoup losses and assist staff.

In the town of Sonoma, Epicurean Connection’s Sheana Davis says she had 27 events canceled during the fires including her cheesemaking classes, fundraisers, catering and private tastings.

“People are skeptical of visiting Wine Country right now,” she says.  Twelve people canceled coming to one of her classes last Sunday and though she hopes people will re-book, she’s concerned about the future.

“Events have reduced in size,” she says.

Winter is Coming

The lean months between December and March are even more worrying. Veteran restaurateurs like Daniel Kedan of Backyard in Forestville usually squirrel away funds to get them through quiet winter months, but the loss of $8,000 of food and two canceled events worth $15,000 have already decimated those savings.

“We are usually set up for winter and we have a cushion. But dealing with this — three years in a row with floods, fires and power outages — that’s beyond gone,” he says.

Though he may see some insurance money, he says it’s been a painfully slow process.

“We still have to pay vendors. The staff takes a big hit. We had to have people breaking down things in the dark, cleaning up and restocking, we reopened with 25 percent of our menu and 25 percent of our staff because people weren’t back yet. That’s just the story from everyone in the business,” says Kedan.

Samantha Ramey of Estero Cafe in Valley Ford says she’s worried about even submitting a claim to her insurance company.

“I’m afraid it will affect our policy, but I want to pay my staff,” she says. Her business lost about $8,000 worth of food, which has cut into the winter cushion she usually sets aside for the slow winter months.

“If we start getting rain, then we’ll be flooding again,” she says, “and it all feels a bit Biblical.”

Backyard’s Kedan, who himself has been patronizing other restaurants, says he’s also seen an uptick, but worries about the dark winter days ahead.

“Don’t forget about us come December and January when the weather isn’t so nice. Get something to go, get it delivered. Share the wealth all the way around and support the places that supported us. Go to Oliver’s, go to Pacific Market, but don’t go to the big corporate places. Central Market needs our money, Oliver’s needs our money,” he says.

Emotional Strain Takes a Toll

Frightening evacuations, unclear information on power outages and fears of fires decimating new neighborhoods have compounded the emotional pain many in Sonoma County were starting to put behind them.

The Whole Pie’s Davis says some people coming to her store just want to talk.

“We can’t heal unless we share our experiences with everyone. When five other people say they’re having the same problems, you don’t feel alone. It isn’t so daunting and you can take a breath. People are just showing up, saying they care and want to talk about it. Sometimes just showing up with a smile and buying a cookie can help,” she says.

Catelli echoes the sentiment, saying, “Go out, go shopping, have dinner. We’ve all taken a big hit.”

6 Sonoma County Restaurants You Need to Visit Right Now

Tasting an entirely new flavor is like discovering a color you’ve never seen. Consider that mindbender while I explain ssamjohng — a Korean chili sauce that’s become the new ultraviolet. Sitting at a 5-foot-long hibachi table inside the recently opened HanBul Korean BBQ with owner Han Soh, he points to a vaguely tan mixture with the kind of reverence reserved for church.

“That’s required,” he says as we sit among a forest of stainless steel bowls. Amid the mayhem of kimchi, pickled radishes, slivers of garlic, and sesame oil studded with sea salt, his thin metal chopsticks wave around the sauce made with miso, chile pepper paste, green onions, garlic, honey, sesame seeds, and sesame oil. “A lot of this is nice to have, but ssamjohng is required,” he says.

Slightly sweet, savory, salty, and mildly spicy, it’s almost impossible to describe other than to say, delicious.

Located on Seventh Street in Santa Rosa, adjacent to his other restaurant, Haku Sushi, Soh’s namesake Korean barbecue was in various stages of “opening soon” for 28 months. But Soh, who is a second-generation Korean, was determined to create the kind of restaurant that he would love in Sonoma County.

From its high-tech imported electric grill tables to its Asteroids video machine and from-scratch sauces, Soh says he wanted a gathering place for families and friends to hang out around the table and eat together, Korean-style. But most of the foods on the table, even for a professional eater, lie deep beyond the realm of recognition. Soh says that even for him, many of the banchan (little side dishes) that line our table are unknowns.

“In Korea you just shut up and eat what your mom made you,” he said, adding, “We don’t have a word for ‘family-style dining’ in Korean. It’s just called eating.”

Go for the family-style barbecue “set” that comes with three or four kinds of meat, the banchan omakase, soup, vegetable crepe, steamed egg, and rice. If you’re not really sure what to order for a group, go this route. You can do beef, pork, seafood, or various combinations of meats. If you’re going a la carte, dolsot bibimbap is a colorful pile of vegetables and fried egg placed atop rice that’s sizzling on a scalding-hot stone bowl. Think of it as the Korean version of fajitas.

HanBul Korean BBQ, 522 Seventh St., Santa Rosa, 707-919-3094.

Click through the gallery for more local restaurants to visit right now. 

 

Local Breweries, Wineries, Restaurants and Stores Raise Funds for Kincade Fire Survivors, First Responders

Natalie and Vinnie Cilurzo, of Russian River Brewing at their brew pub in Santa Rosa with Sonoma Pride beer they are brewing to help fire victims

In the wake of the Kincade fire, Sonoma County is banding together to show gratitude to first responders and support those affected by the fire. In the past few weeks, we have written about ways you can help Kincade fire victims by volunteering and making donations and how you can support local businesses — farmers, restaurants, wineries, and stores — that lost income during power shutoffs and mandatory evacuations. Now, several local businesses are organizing fundraising initiatives to show their support. Click through the gallery for some of these initiatives. Do you know of more fundraisers? Send us an email.

Taste of Tea: A Secret Healdsburg Tea House

Bento Box with chicken Katsu at Taste of Tea in Healdsburg. Heather Irwin/PD
Bento Box with chicken Katsu from Taste of Tea in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

For three years, I haven’t quite known what to do with Healdsburg’s Taste of Tea. A combination restaurant, tea house, spa and retail location on North Street between a winery tasting room and the Raven Theater, it kind of defied explanation.

Mochi at Taste of Tea in Healdsburg. Courtesy photo.
Mochi at Taste of Tea in Healdsburg. Courtesy photo.

First off you don’t (as I mistakenly thought), eat tea sandwiches while getting a green tea foot soak. As much as that sounds amazing, it’s not a thing. You can, however, drink a tea and sake cocktail while eating an authentic bento box in the cafe. You can drink tea while getting a foot soak in the spa room. You can simply eat from their expanded menu — from miso soup and wakame salads to pork ramen, curry noodles and donburi — and schedule a one-hour tea exploration session with a tea docent afterward.

Basically, the combinations are endless. Just make sure to get a foot soak in there somewhere.

Skewers at Taste of Tea in Healdsburg. Courtesy photo.
Skewers at Taste of Tea in Healdsburg. Courtesy photo.

The reason Taste of Tea has come back on my radar is the authentic Japanese comfort food created by owner and executive chef Nozomu (Nez) Tokugawa. The Classic Bento ($18) includes meticulously prepared offerings of pickled sea vegetables, miso soup, small bites of sashimi and chicken katsu, all served in a lacquered bento box that looks and feels like a small gift rather than a simple lunch. Specials like the katsu changeup, but teriyaki beef and chicken as well as fried tofu are always on the menu.

One of Nez’s signatures is Miso Ramen ($14) made with vegan kombu broth — a traditional ramen base. Topped with bbq pork, a shoyu-marinated egg, bamboo shoots, and nori, it’s a bowl of warmth and deeply satisfying flavor. Noodle and rice bowls include yakitori, donburi, and sweet Japanese curry. Though not always available, ochazuke (a grilled rice ball served with green tea and pickled plum) is a simple Japanese rustic soup that uses tea in place of broth, worth checking out. For dessert, ginger rice pudding with candied ginger and fruit ($5) is a sweet way to finish, perfect with your last sips of tea.

Bento Box with chicken Katsu at Taste of Tea in Healdsburg. Heather Irwin/PD
Bento Box with chicken Katsu at Taste of Tea in Healdsburg. Heather Irwin/PD

With one of the most extensive loose leaf tea menus in the region — there are at least 80 — prepare to spend some time perusing the choices. Tea flights ($15) include three 8-ounce pots if you can’t quite decide or want to taste with a friend. Japanese Matcha is served straight ($5), or can be jazzed up with vanilla syrup, coconut milk or even turned into a sort of Bloody Mary mixed with tomato juice, cilantro sugar and celery ($7).

Beer and sake are available, but we were especially excited about the Marteani drinks ($7), alcohol-free cocktails that blend flavored teas with mint, cranberry, mango and other ingredients for a refreshing alternative.

Overall: Taste of Tea isn’t your typical teahouse, but a one-stop relaxation spot to fill up and wind down.

Taste of Tea, 109 North St., Healdsburg, 707-431-1995, thetasteoftea.com. Open Friday through Tuesday from11a.m. to 8p.m., Monday and Tuesday to 6p.m., closed Wednesday and Thursday.

Memorial for Evelyn Cheatham: Laughter, Tears and a Huge Crowd

Former WOW Students at Evelyn Cheatham’s memorial at Catelli’s in Geyserville. Heather Irwin/PD

A brave hummingbird flitted among hundreds of well-wishers, friends, family and chefs who gathered to honor Worth Our Weight founder and chef Evelyn Cheatham on Friday.

For Chef Duskie Estes, who spoke at the memorial, the darting, eager little bird that seemed unafraid of the crowd was a clear sign that her friend and mentor Evelyn was nearby. Others of us saw Evelyn’s presence in a flower, a honeybee or in the eyes of nearly a dozen of her former students.

There were sobs and sniffles at the gathering, but more memorable were the laughs at her larger-than-life personality, the sweet remembrances, and the unanimous agreement that she was one in a million.

Her life wasn’t easy, but she made a difference to everyone she touched.  We honor her by carrying on that legacy, and by making a difference to people in our own lives. I think she would have liked that…and I know she would have liked the dessert table piled high with sweets in her honor.

Rest in peace, Evelyn. Fly among the birds and bees and in the hearts of us all.

+++
A little thanks from Domenica Catelli to all those who helped…
Bella Rosa
– Preston, Paradise Ridge, Jackson Family Wines, Balleto 
Antoinette Sepulveda for flowers and arrangements
– Friends and family helped set up Thursday
– Alumni, led by Michale Rudolph, helped cook, break down and make the celebration happen

A Heroic Cake for Kincade Fire First Responders

Details of a Kincade Fire first responders’ cake created by Costeaux Bakery’s Karah Williams, Nerissa Sutton, Silva Nunez and Dioselena Madrano in Healdsburg. Heather Irwin/PD

How do you thank a league of firefighters, police and EMTs for saving your town? If you’re Will Seppi from Costeaux Bakery in Healdsburg, you make a really big cake — a three-layer monster of a dessert that includes hand-painted scenes of heroic firefights, fondant crests for each department and loads of buttercream frosting.

Or more accurately, you get your best pastry chefs to do it.

Karah Williams (head pastry chef), Nerissa Sutton (creative designer), Silva Nunez and Dioselena Madrano (pastry chefs) spent nearly 12 hours (starting at 4 a.m.) putting special touches on a celebratory cake served at Friday’s Welcome Home celebration. For many in the small town, it was the first time in weeks that imminent threats of fire, power and gas outages and evacuation orders have all been lifted. The icing on the, ahem, cake: The Kincade Fire is 100 percent contained.

Check out the photos of the cake in the works. Dream about how good it tasted.

After the Fire: How to Support Sonoma County Farmers, Restaurants, Wineries and Stores

Wine tasting at Grand Cru Custom Crush in Windsor. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)

Two weeks after the Kincade fire sparked in northern Sonoma County, local businesses are taking to social media to welcome visitors back to the area. After week-long closures due to power shutoffs and mandatory evacuation orders, they are eager to let the public know that Sonoma County is open for business. And understandably so: in a region where much of the local economy relies on tourism, the effects of natural disasters like the Kincade fire — now fully contained — can linger and negatively impact businesses for weeks, months, even years to come.

This is the second time in two years that fires have burned in Sonoma County during the bustling harvest season — in October 2017, the Tubbs, Nuns and Pocket fires raged for three weeks. Last year, smoke from the Camp fire in Butte County blanketed the area in November and, in February of this year, floods damaged businesses and homes in Guerneville and Sebastopol.

Fortunately, the local community remains resilient. Just as in October 2017 and in February of this year, the outpouring of support and generosity is again prevalent. Sonoma County will recover from this recent blow and while it does, we will continue to celebrate this beautiful place we’re proud to call home. If you’d like to show local businesses a little extra love in the weeks and months to come, we’ve rounded up a few ideas — click on the hyperlinks for details.

Shop Local

Week-long closures due to power shutoffs and evacuation orders have delivered a blow to local retailers, especially small independently owned stores already struggling to compete with national chains and online megastores. Many businesses have lost critical sales during the normally busy harvest season as threats of fire have kept customers away.

To support Sonoma County stores, consider shopping local this holiday season: For every $100 spent at one of these businesses, $68 stays in the community, according to the Business Alliance for Local Living Economies. Meanwhile, spending $100 at a big-box store contributes only $32 to the local economy, while the rise of online shopping continues to disrupt traditional retail. Visit our shopping page for inspiration, and sign up to our Retail Therapy newsletter.

Support Sonoma County Farmers 

Closed farmers markets, evacuations and lost refrigeration due to power outages have devastated small family farms throughout the region over the last two weeks. Many count on weekly markets as a significant source of revenue and thousands of pounds of perfect produce have been reduced to compost.

To support your local farmers and ranchers, think about making warm butternut squash soup, braised greens, and French onion soup from local farmers produce or cook up a hearty meat stew with beef from local ranchers. Many farmers also have lots of salad greens to sell quickly — so eat healthily, while helping the farmers. Even better, join a CSA, which will help farms throughout the season.

Year-round farmers markets include Petaluma East Side Farmers Market, Santa Rosa Farmers Market, Sebastopol Farmers Market, Sonoma Valley Certified Farmer’s Market. Cloverdale Community Market & Exchange and Windsor Certified Farmer’s Market are open until mid-December. — Heather Irwin

Eat at Sonoma County Restaurants 

The Kincade fire has been a triple whammy for local restaurants, who lost power, lost customers and continue to struggle with lackluster tourism. Most restaurants store hundreds of pounds of food in large “walk-in” refrigerators — from meat and dairy to prepared stock, vegetables and fruit.

The Sonoma County Tourism Bureau estimates that each power outage costs restaurateurs $4,700, something they can’t easily afford repeatedly. Restaurant workers lose salary, producers lose restaurant business, and it takes months or years to recoup (if at all) when profit margins average 5 percent.

We’ve been glad to see some restaurants packed in the last few days, but they’ll continue to need local support through the quiet winter season. How to help: Book a holiday party, take a friend out, schedule a date night or just head out by yourself for a glass of wine and an appetizer. You could also eat your way through this list of 50 dishes locals can’t live without.

Prefer to dine at home? Eat your way through this list of iconic Sonoma County foods. From Liberty Farms duck to Dungeness crab, olive oil to local peaches — you’ve got work to do for a good cause. Find more dining inspiration on BiteClub. — Heather Irwin

Visit Sonoma County Wineries and Buy Local Wines

Out of the more than 400 wineries in Sonoma County, only one winery — Soda Rock Winery in Healdsburg — was destroyed by the Kincade fire. Now that the fire is fully contained, power has been restored and evacuation orders lifted, most wineries and tasting rooms have resumed normal opening hours.

If you’re planning a visit to Sonoma wine country in the coming weeks and months, you will have plenty to look forward to: in addition to serving award-winning wines, many of the local wineries are hosting holiday events.

Support Alexander Valley wineries, which were especially impacted by the fire and give a little extra love to small wine producers. New to Sonoma County? Here are a few great wineries for first-time visitors.

Discover Healdsburg, Geyserville and Windsor

The Kincade fire came alarmingly close to Healdsburg, Geyserville and Windsor. It burned 77,758 acres in the surrounding area and destroyed 374 buildings, including 174 homes, but thanks to the valiant efforts of firefighters from across the United States, California and Sonoma County, devastation on the scale following the October 2017 fires was averted.

As the fire is now fully contained, the three towns — each with its own particular charm — are welcoming visitors again.

Healdsburg, with its picturesque plaza surrounded by award-winning wineries and restaurants, makes for an idyllic introduction to wine country. The tiny town of Geyserville, with top notch restaurants, tasting rooms and vintage shops, is a hidden gem. And Windsor is home to Russian River Brewing Company‘s new state-of-the-art facility and the Grand Cru custom crush, featuring over fifteen independent winemakers.

Stay in Sonoma County

Escaping the Midwest winter with a trip to Wine Country? Looking for a quick weekend getaway from San Francisco? Or maybe you’re just a Petaluman in search of a fun staycation in your own backyard? Rest your head at local hotels, inns and B&Bs, after shopping, drinking and eating your way through Sonoma County. These hotels offer a little extra for those on a budget. There are family-friendly options, too, and properties suited for those who are looking for an eco-friendly vacation.

Donate money

If you’d like to support fire recovery efforts in Sonoma County by making a financial donation, there are a number of organizations to consider: The Community Foundation of Sonoma County’s Resilience Fund continues to accept donations to support the mid- and long-term recovery needs of individuals and families; The Latino Community Foundation’s NorCal Wildfire Relief Fund supports nonprofits that provide essential sheltering and supportive services to Latino immigrants and farmworkers affected by the fire; The UndocuFund for Fire Relief in Sonoma County provides direct funding to undocumented immigrants and their families in Sonoma County to help with fire-related expenses.

Find more ways to donate money here.

Donate time

There are over 1,500 nonprofits in Sonoma County — many are volunteer operated. If you’re able to donate your time — a little or a lot — this can have a tremendous impact. The best place to start is the Volunteer Center of Sonoma County, which places thousands of volunteers with their “right match” nonprofits annually.

The Redwood Empire Food Bank, the “largest hunger-relief organization serving north coastal California from Sonoma County to the Oregon border,” deployed its emergency response program, Station 3990, during the Kincade fire. To volunteer at the food bank — includes helping out in the kitchen and with food distribution — sign up for a shift here.

Find more ways to volunteer here.

 

Charlie Palmer’s Guide to the Best of Healdsburg

Healdsburg, with its picturesque plaza surrounded by award-winning wineries and restaurants, makes for an idyllic introduction to wine country. But with so many great places to choose from, it can be hard to decide where to go. Not to worry, we’re here to guide you — or rather, acclaimed chef Charlie Palmer is. Click through the gallery to discover how to spend 24 hours in Healdsburg, just like the great chef. And don’t miss nearby Geyserville, Cloverdale and Windsor.