Page 22 – Sonoma Magazine

60 Black-Owned Businesses in Sonoma County

February 2025

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

EARTHSeed is a new permaculture farm that both grows food and fosters resilence in the land and its people. One of founder Pandora Thomas’ goals is to make the farm and its products accessible to those who have historically faced barriers to access, particularly communities of color. She hopes to offer a robust program of classes and farming internships. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)

Looking to support Black-owned businesses in Sonoma County this Black History Month and throughout the rest of the year?

From winemakers to restaurant owners and wardrobe stylists, here are the Black entrepreneurs and their businesses leaving their mark on Sonoma County.

Want to recommend a Black-owned local business not included on this list? Please send us an email.

Food and drink

Abyssinia Ethiopian Restaurant: Chef-owner Wodeyelesh Merso crafts soul-soothing, spectacularly spiced Ethiopian and Eritrean cuisine. 913 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-568-6455, my-abyssinia.com

Clockwise from left: yebeg key we't, yebeg tibs, miser we't, and tikel gomen, from Abyssinia restaurant in Santa Rosa. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat) — Clockwise from left: yebeg key we’t, yebeg tibs, miser we’t, and tikel gomen, from Abyssinia restaurant in Santa Rosa. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Texas Toast, cornbread muffins, pork ribs, links, brisket and tri-tip, bbq chicken, baked beans, coleslaw and collard greens at A&M Barbecue in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

A&M BBQ: Local pitmasters Kris Austin and Marvin Mckinzy joined forces in 2024 to open the best Southern-style barbecue in the county. The Sebastopol barbecue joint churns out wood-smoked barbecued meats such as brisket, tri-tip and pork ribs, as well as classic sides like perfectly cooked collard greens and baked beans. 495 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-1315, ambbqllc.com

Big River Coffee Company: Family-owned gourmet coffee business founded in 1991 by Harold Henderson. Naomi Henderson, CEO, is a second generation team member. 3345 Industrial Drive, Suite 18, Santa Rosa, bigrivercoffee.co

Cafe Frida Gallery: Frida Kahlo-inspired coffee shop in Santa Rosa’s SOFA Art District, owned by Mamadou Diouf, who is from Senegal, and his father-in-law, the Santa Rosa artist Mario Uribe. 300 South A St., Santa Rosa, 707-308-4344, cafefridagallery.com

Dandy Sandos: A sandwich shop owned by couple Daniel and Candyce Bryson at the former Mr. Pickles location in Petaluma. 3100 Lakeville Highway, Suite C, Petaluma, 707-763-1676, dandysandos.godaddysites.com

EARTHseed Farm: EARTHseed is California’s first Afro-Indigenous permaculture farm. One of founder Pandora Thomas’s goals is to make the farm and its products accessible to those who have historically faced barriers to access, particularly communities of color. Her farm is a place to practice and teach African agricultural skills that have endured and evolved despite centuries of slavery and diaspora. 3175 Sullivan Road, Sebastopol. earthseedfarm.org

Enlivened: An organic probiotic beverage maker, owned and operated by husband-and-wife team, Tom Boyd and Deana Dennard. enlivened.me

Everett & Jones: Dorothy Everett opened the first Everett & Jones restaurant in Oakland in 1973 with just $700 to her name. The Graton Casino location, which opened in 2022, is one of four remaining Everett & Jones restaurants, including two in Oakland and one in Berkeley, and lines still snake out the doors for the popular barbecue spot. Graton Resort & Casino, 288 Golf Course Drive W., Rohnert Park, gratonresortcasino.com

Maison Porcella: Chef and charcutier Marc-Henri Jean-Baptiste and his French wife, Maud, moved to Sonoma County in 2018 to launch a charcuterie business. They opened a shop and bistro in Windsor, selling housemade pâté, rillettes, ham and the best Croque Monsieur around. 8499 Old Redwood Highway, Suite 114, Windsor, 707-955-5611, maisonporcella.com

Nati Catering: This full-service catering business is owned by Rose Parish, who also is the Vice President of the North Bay Black Chamber of Commerce. Nati Catering prepares meals for any occasion large or small, including private parties, dinners for two and weekly meals. naticatering.com

The Red Rose Catering: This full-service catering business boasts “a long tradition based upon generations of family cooking and sharing exceptional meals.” It is owned by Nancy Rogers, who is also the President and CEO of the North Bay Black Chamber of Commerce, and serves Santa Rosa, Petaluma, Novato and surrounding areas. 707-687-9014, theredrosecatering.com

Reggae Rasta Styles: Jamaican food truck, owned by Terry Ann Smith, pops up around the county and also offers catering and event services. On Instagram @reggae.rastastyles

Interior designer Stephanie Meyer is the owner and operator of AVCO Design. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat) — Interior designer Stephanie Meyer is the owner and operator of AVCO Design. (Christopher Chung/For Sonoma Magazine)

Stephane Saint Louis, chef/owner of Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat) — Stephane Saint Louis, chef/owner of Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (Christopher Chung/For Sonoma Magazine)

Saucy Mama’s Jook Joint: A rockin’ Southern-style restaurant in Guerneville, owned by Yvette Bidegain. Saucy Mama’s puts the soul in soul food by fusing the deeply Southern flavors of Bidegain’s family’s Louisiana heritage with her own California culinary twists. 16632 Highway 116, Guerneville, 707-604-7184, saucymamasjookjoint.com

Sebastopol Cookie Company: Downtown Sebastopol shop, owned by Bronwen Shears and husband Dave MacNab, offering baked goods, including vegan and gluten-free options, and food. 168 N. Main St, Sebastopol, 707-824-4040 sebastopolcookiecompany.com

Short Momma’s Barbecue Sauce: A Santa Rosa-based sauce business with products in stores throughout Sonoma County. shortmommas.com

Smackin Soul Food: Mahkaila McGowan-Gans, a Santa Rosa Junior College student, started this pop-up and catering business with her mother while she was a senior at Maria Carillo High School. The mother-daughter duo hosts weekly Tuesday night pop-ups at Santa Rosa’s Veteran’s Memorial Building, serving dishes like lobster and crab, fried chicken and other southern-inspired dishes. Santa Rosa, facebook.com/smackinsoulfood, instagram.com/smackinsoulfood

Sonoma Crust: Cafe, catering business and pizza parlor run by chef and baker Anne Sanusi. Originally serving up some of the best chicken waffles in Sonoma County, the business now focuses on slinging Neo-Neapolitan pizzas for private events and parties. 707-477-4510, sonomacrust.com

Sonoma Sauces: Company making wine-based dessert and cooking sauces. Owned by Jennifer Carson and her husband, Akil Brown. 707-486-8581, sonomasauces.com

Street Social: Petaluma restaurant, owned by Jevon Martin and Marjorie Pier, highlighting seasonal and local ingredients. With just six tables, this tiny restaurant is cooking up gigantic flavors in an unexpected location. 29 F Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-774-6185, streetsocial.social

Table Culture Provisions: Rising-star chef Stephane Saint-Louis has been tapped repeatedly by Sonoma Magazine, The Press Democrat and The Chronicle for his tasting menus. 312 Petaluma Blvd. S., Petaluma, 707-559-5739, tcprovision.com

Vegan Mob: Toriano Gordon has made it his mission to celebrate the meat-based barbecue culture of his youth, but with absolutely no meat or dairy. His Vegan Mob restaurant in Oakland has received glowing reviews from USA Today, Food & Wine Magazine and actor Danny Glover. Gordon opened a location in Santa Rosa in 2023. veganmob.biz

Lloyd Davis of Corner 103 in Sonoma. (Courtesy of Corner 103)

Wine

Bodkin Wines: Healdsburg-based winery known for creating one of America’s first sparkling Sauvignon Blancs. Owner and winemaker Chris Christensen also produces other sparkling wines, Gewürztraminers, Zinfandels, and white and red dessert wines. bodkinwines.com

Corner 103: Sonoma winery led by financier-turned-vintner Lloyd Davis. Open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily by appointment. 103 W Napa St., Sonoma, 707-931-6141, corner103.com

Fog Crest Vineyards: Family-owned vineyard in Sebastopol, founded by Rosalind and James Manoogian, specializing in handcrafted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Tasting room open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily by appointment. 7606 Occidental Road, Sebastopol, 707-829-2006, fogcrestvineyard.com

L’Objet Wines: Healdsburg-based wine label from songwriter-turned-winemaker Danny Glover (no relation to the actor). Glover specializes in Pinot Noir and produces 600 cases or so a year. 243 East St., Healdsburg, 707-235-3153, lobjetwines.com

McCarter Cellars: Dennis McCarter, born and raised in Sonoma County, always dreamed of producing extraordinary wines from his home region. His winery specializes in “ultra-premium wines;” its first vintage became available in 2023 and McCarter went on to win several awards for his Sauvignon Blanc and rosé of Pinot Noir. 707-324-9233, mccartercellars.com

Mad Marvlus Wine: Owner and winemaker Marreya Bailey ditched the corporate world in 2020 and jumped feet-first into wine and cider. She is now recognized as one of the most innovative producers in the co-ferments space, marrying wild hybrid grapes, heirloom apples, pears, honey, herbs and other botanicals into her drinks. madmarvlus.com

Marreya Bailey of Mad Marvlus uses apples, grapes, and other botanicals to make fermented alcoholic beverages that are neither strictly wine nor cider, but the best of both. (Conor Hagen)

Matt Crutchfield is the assistant winemaker for Ryme Cellars and has recently created his own wine brand. His recent summer release features two types of Cortese and two types of Chenin Blanc. (Chad Surmick/for Sonoma Magazine)

Matt Crutchfield Wines: Matt Crutchfield is the assistant winemaker for Ryme Cellars and has recently created his own wine brand. His recent summer release features two types of Cortese and two types of Chenin Blanc. mattcrutchfieldwines.com

P. Harrell Wines: Paula Harrell founded her Sonoma County wine label in 2015. The line includes a Riesling, a rosé, a sparkling Blanc de Noirs and a Petite Sirah. pharrellwines.com

Tympany Vineyards: Owner and winemaker Louis Jordan specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon and runs the winery together with his wife, Lynda. tympanyvineyards.com

Vision Cellars: Edward Lee “Mac” McDonald founded Vision Cellars with his wife, Lil. He produces his wines at Caymus Vineyards in Napa, but sources grapes from Sonoma County and the North Coast. McDonald is the founder of the Association of African American Vintners. visioncellars.com

Ward Four Wines: Justin Trabue spent seven years working in production at Lumen Wines in Santa Barbara County and Heitz Cellar in Napa Valley. She founded Ward Four in 2021 and is one of Sonoma Magazine’s “Winemakers to Know in 2024.” Sourcing grapes from vineyard owners who farm sustainably and follow ethical labor practices, she makes her wine at Sonoma’s Obsidian Wine Co. using native yeasts and gentle foot-treading. wardfourwines.com

Photo by Eileen Roche. — Justin Trabue is the founder of Ward Four Wines. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

Arts and design

AVCO Design: AVCO Design, owned by interior designer Stephanie Meyer, works with residential and commercial clients. avco-design.com.

ChromaDiverse Inc.: Chroma Diverse is owned and operated by Judy Tyrus, a former dancer, dance teacher and curator. The company’s mission is to help performing arts organizations preserve, protect, and present their legacy materials online. chromadiverse.org

Gapelii Brand: Luxury clothing and shoe company, founded in 2019 by Toja Hodge and Andrew Akufo. gapeliibrand.com.

Judy Tyrus is the CEO of Chroma Diverse, a company that helps performing arts organizations preserve, protect, and present their legacy materials online. (Courtesy of Judy Tyrus)

Rena Charles in her Rena Charles Gallery, next to works by artist Aaron Webb, in Healdsburg on Wednesday, January 24, 2024. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat) — Artist Rena Charles in her Rena Charles Gallery, next to works by artist Aaron Webb, in Healdsburg. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Rena Charles Gallery: Artist Rena Charles opened this Healdsburg gallery in 2023, showcasing works by emerging and established artists. The space is welcoming, reminiscent of an artist’s studio, inviting you to linger and chat with Charles about the art. 439 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-813-2033, renacharlesgallery.com

Rose Hill Art Gallery: Artist Rose Hill uses targeted examples of historically racist Black imagery to spark conversation and start the healing process. Her Rose Hill Art Gallery, located near Sonoma, pops with color, including from the playful figures in Hill’s “Little Colored Girls” ceramic plate series, made famous by Oprah Winfrey. 75 Fremont Drive, Sonoma. rosehillart.com

Personal care

Breathe Diversity Pilates + Fitness: Class and private session pilates studio, owned by Sherrese Mikell and Sonya Snyder. 65 Brookwood Ave., Suite 4, Santa Rosa, 707-595-5513, breathediversitypilates.com

Dana Jones Fitness Evolution: A fitness coach who provides group and one-on-one training sessions. djsfitnessevolution.com

Destiné Beauty: Stylist Juliana Destiné specializes in natural and curly hair styles. 1030A Second St., Suite 7, Santa Rosa, 707-347-9672, destine-beauty.business.site

E & E Beauty Supply Bar: Santa Rosa sisters Eva Karikari and Ernestina Apraku couldn’t find a local salon that specialized in textured hair care, so they opened their own. The duo sells hair extensions, wigs, hair braiding, waxing, lashes, accessories and more. 1331 Guerneville Rd., Santa Rosa, 707-806-4427. eebeautysupplybar.com

LA Beauty and Hair: Santa Rosa beauty and hair salon owned by Abrea Tillman, who specializes in alopecia and cancer hair loss solutions, such as wigs. Tillman, who is the Treasurer of the North Bay Black Chamber of Commerce, also offers beauty consultations and sells hair care products. 1071 Santa Rosa Plaza, Suite 12, Santa Rosa, 415-590-7489, labeautyandhair.com

Lotus Beauty Bar: Store, owned by Rabia Raysson, offering skin treatments and waxing using organic skincare products. 307 D St., Santa Rosa, 707-575-7940, lotusbeautybar.net

Mixed Strands Salon & Luxury Hair: A multi-textural hair salon located in Rohnert Park. 275 Southwest Blvd., Rohnert Park, facebook.com/thesaloneclectic

Multicultural Hair Studio: Multicultural Hair Studio offers high-quality haircuts and carries wigs, an assortment of premium bundles, closures and frontals. Braiding hair is available from 8 to 40 inches and in a myriad of colors. Crochet styles available, including locs, twist, braids and loose hair. 5222 Country Club Drive, Rohnert Park, 707- 319-8188, jasmin@mhssolutions.biz, facebook.com

Software Tailoring: Giovonnae Anderson combines her engineering knowledge with her love of sewing at her tailoring business. She uses 3D body-scanning technology to ensure the perfect fit. 2841 Cleveland Ave., Suite 11, Santa Rosa, 707-978-4986. software-tailoring.com

Malia Anderson stylist and founder of Style by Malia at her studio in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Style by Malia: Business owned by wardrobe stylist and content creator Malia Anderson. On Instagram at @stylebymalia or at stylebymalia.com.

TKs Beauty Bar Salon: Salon offering a variety of services, including weaves, hair extension training and braids. 3979 Sebastopol Road, 707-495-9322, styleseat.com/m/v/tksbeautybar.

Urembo Asili: Plant-based skincare products crafted by Petaluma entrepreneur Evie Dondi. Urembo Asili means “natural beauty” in Kiswahili (the native language of the Swahili people). Dondi taps into her “African roots and African ancient wisdom” when crafting her products. uremboasili.com

Yoga with Nicole: Yoga instructor Nicole Ward offers healing workshops and leadership training. yogawithnicole.org

Other services

ARS Roofing: Santa Rosa roofing company owned by Lake County native Letitia Hanke, who also operates the LIME Foundation nonprofit. 1400 Petaluma Hill Road, Santa Rosa, 707-584-5900, arsroofing.com

Bon Marche: A nonprofit organization with a thrift store in Sonoma, owned by Anna Bimenyimana, that provides funds to build health clinics and gardens in Rwanda and support charitable programs in Sonoma. Also sells Rwandan coffee online, through e-kawa. 19405 Riverside Drive, Sonoma, 707-933-9613, bonmarchethriftstore.org, e-kawa.com

Core Electrical Services: A Santa Rosa firm, owned and operated by Chris Perez, which provides electrician work for commercial and industrial clients. 3250 Dutton Ave., Suite B, Santa Rosa, 707-615-1969, core-elect.com

Gabriel Jenkins: A Farmers Insurance agent who works out of Santa Rosa. agents.farmers.com/ca/santa-rosa/14036046-gabriel-jenkins

Journey of the Saber: Star Wars-themed shop and “Jedi training” school at the Santa Rosa Plaza that sells lightsabers. Owner Teryn Kelley teaches classes. 1550 West Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-836-5593, facebook.com/JourneyofTheSaber

Kerry Rego Consulting: Social media and tech consultant located in Sonoma County. kerryregoconsulting.com and on Instagram @kregobiz.

Keystone Therapy & Training Services: Santa Rosa therapeutic support for individuals and families, as well as professional development for people who work in human service and mental health. keystone.love

Slick Bridge (Thizz Clothing): Clothing store at the Santa Rosa Plaza specializing in hip-hop apparel inspired by the Thizz Entertainment record label that was started by rapper Mac Dre. The business is co-owned by Michael “Mob$tah Myk” Walker, Dela the Fella, Miami the Most — the late Mac Dre’s brother — and Kilo Curt. 1071 Santa Rosa Plaza, Suite 2035, Santa Rosa, facebook.com

Strange Constellation: Vintage clothing store and community art space in Santa Rosa’s SOFA Art District, owned by Dani DiAngelo and Lee Johnson. 300 S. A St., Suite 1, Santa Rosa, strangeconstellation.com

The Goodest Digital: Social Media marketing business owned by Santa Rosa resident Christopher Terry. Find on Instagram at @ct_crunchh.

Did we miss a Black-owned business in Sonoma County? Send us an email.

Nashelly Chavez, Sara Edwards, Sofia Englund, Heather Irwin, Kylie Lawrence, Maci Martell, Linda Murphy, Owen Ruderman and Bill Swindell contributed to this article.

Where to Celebrate Black History Month in Sonoma County

January 2025

By Maci Martell

Black Panther memorabilia is on display for visitors to the True Black History Museum traveling exhibit at the Sonoma State University Student Center in Rohnert Park, Thursday, Feb. 8, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

Starting Saturday, Black History Month honors the culture and contributions of Black Americans while paying respect to their perseverance in the face of discrimination.

In Sonoma County, various nonprofits, museums, entertainment venues will host a number of events to celebrate the month. For more learning opportunities on the Black American experience from past to present, check out these books and movies recommended by local professors. To support local Black-owned businesses, check out our directory here.

Santa Rosa Junior College BHM Events

All of Santa Rosa Junior College’s Black History Month events are free and will take place on the Santa Rosa campus unless noted otherwise. 1501 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-527-4011, santarosa.edu

‘A History of Black Characters in Comic Books’ exhibit, Feb. 3 – March 14

The Santa Rosa Junior College Multicultural Museum will open its exhibit, “Stereotyped to the Margins: A History of Black Characters in Comic Books,” starting with a reception from 2-4 p.m., Feb. 3, at the campus museum. Curated by Dr. Eric Atkinson of SRJC’s English department, the exhibit includes comic book artwork throughout the 1900s to present, with the purpose of examining culture and ourselves beyond monolithic viewpoints. Light refreshments will be served at reception. Exhibit extends through March 14.

‘Racial Healing in the Trump Era,’ Feb. 4, 5

Dr. Calvin Monroe will lead two separate discussions 0n “Racial Healing in the Trump Era” — from 6-7:30 p.m., Feb. 4, at Sawubona BLOC in Pioneer Hall, and from 11:45 a.m. to 1 p.m., Feb. 5, in the Bertolini Student Center.

Tyler Shahan teaches attendees how to paint an Addams Family-inspired painting during a Cluster Funk Studios event at Barrel Brothers Brewing in Windsor, Saturday, Sept. 30, 2023. (Abraham Fuentes / For The Press Democrat)

‘Master Peace & Mocktails,’ Feb. 12

Brittany Lee and Tyler Ann Shahan, owners of Cluster Funk Studios in Santa Rosa, will host a guided paint therapy session with music and mocktails from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Feb. 12, in the Bertolini Student Center.

‘Rooted in Resilience,’ Feb. 19

Clinical social worker Joseph Hancock will lead a discussion, “Rooted in Resilience: Celebrating Black History Through Healing and Wellness,” from 11:30 a.m. to 1 p.m., Feb. 19, in the Bertolini Student Center.

Soul Skate Night, Feb. 23

SRJC’s Black Student Union and Umoja community will present “Soul Skate Night” from 7:30-9 p.m., Feb. 23, at Cal Skate in Rohnert Park. For ages 17 and over. Free for the first 100 SRJC students and faculty who RSVP. Reserve a spot on Eventbrite.

6100 Commerce Blvd., Rohnert Park, 707-585-0494, calskate.com

Talks with Dr. AK Sterling, Feb. 25, 26

Public speaker and educator Dr. AK Sterling will lead two separate discussions during the final weekend of Black History Month. His first talk, “Why So Thirsty,” is from 6:30-8 p.m., Feb. 25, at the Sawubona BLOC in Pioneer Hall. The second talk, “Uncovering Capacity,” is from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Feb. 26, in the Bertolini Student Center.

Sonoma State University BHM events

All of Sonoma State University’s Black History Month events will take place on the Rohnert Park campus. Each event is free to attend. 1801 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park, 707-664-2880, sonoma.edu

Black History Month Dinner, Feb. 4

Sonoma State’s The HUB Cultural Center will kick off Black History Month with a celebratory dinner and opening ceremony from 5-6 p.m., Feb. 4, at The HUB. hub.sonoma.edu

A visitor to The True Black History Museum pauses to watch a video about George Washington Carver while visiting the traveling exhibit at the Sonoma State University Student Center in Rohnert Park, Thursday, Feb. 8, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

True Black History Museum, Feb. 5

Sonoma State’s Associated Students and The HUB will sponsor the True Black History Museum from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Feb. 5, at Ballrooms B and C in the Student Center. The True Black History Museum is a traveling Black history exhibit with a collection of over 1,000 artifacts and documents dating from the 1700s to the 21st century.

Black Labor Reimagined, Feb. 12

Sonoma State professor Kim Hester Williams will give a lecture, “Black Labor Reimagined: The Practices of Resistance, Rest and Joy,” from noon to 1 p.m., Feb. 12, at Ballroom B in the Student Center. Williams will lecture on journalist Nikole Hannah-Jones’ The 1619 Project, which examines United States history with a focus on slavery and its continued impact on American life.

Black Joy Fest, Feb. 13

The HUB will host its third annual Black Joy Fest from noon to 3 p.m., Feb. 13, in the Seawolf Plaza. The celebration will include food, music, community resources and more.

BSU Presents: Love & Basketball Screening, Feb. 18

Sonoma State’s Black Student Union will host a screening of the 2000 film Love & Basketball starting at 6 p.m., Feb. 18, at The HUB.

Black History Month Cookout, Feb. 27

The HUB and Visionaries Inspiring Black Educated Scholars (VIBES) will host the college’s Black History Month Cookout from 6-8 p.m., Feb. 27, at the Seawolf Plaza.

Sonoma County Library BHM events

Local branches of the Sonoma County Library will host such events as lectures, workshops, film screenings and more. All events, virtual and in-person, are free to attend unless noted otherwise. sonomalibrary.org

Dream Together: MLK Tiny Art Workshop, Feb. 11

The Sebastopol Regional Library will host a Black History Month-themed art workshop from 3:30-4:30 p.m., Feb. 11, in its meeting room. For grades 4-6, children will create mini art pieces while they learn about Martin Luther King Jr. and his dream for a just and equal society. All materials will be provided. Registration encouraged, but not required. Register online.

Sebastopol Regional Library, 7140 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol, 707-823-7691

Black History Month Film: The Gospel According to Andrè, Feb. 16

The Sebastopol Regional Library will host a film screening of the 2017 documentary, “The Gospel According to Andrè,” from 2-3:30 p.m., Feb. 16, in the meeting room. The film explores the life and career of fashion journalist André Leon Talley, who grew up in the segregated South and went on to work at Vogue. The screening event will include tea and popcorn.

Author Talks: I Am Nobody’s Slave with Lee Hawkins, Feb. 18

In a virtual event, the Sonoma County Library will present a conversation with journalist and Pulitzer Prize finalist Lee Hawkins about his memoir “I Am Nobody’s Slave: How Uncovering My Family’s History Set Me Free.” Hawkins will talk about his book’s examination of his family’s legacy post-enslavement, including their resilience in the face of trauma and systemic racism. The discussion will be held from 11 a.m. to noon, Feb. 18, over Zoom. Register online.

An undated photo shows Rosa Parks riding on the Montgomery Area Transit System bus in Montgomery, Alabama. Parks refused to give up her seat on a Montgomery bus on Dec. 1, 1955, igniting the boycott that led to a federal court ruling against segregation in public transportation. (DAILY ADVERTISER / via AP) — An undated photo shows Rosa Parks riding on the Montgomery Area Transit System bus in Montgomery, Alabama. Parks was involved with the 1955 Montgomery Bus Boycott that led to a federal court ruling against segregation in public transportation. (DAILY ADVERTISER / via AP)

Black History Month Film: The Rebellious Life of Mrs. Rosa Parks, Feb. 23

The Sebastopol Regional Library will host a film screening of the 2022 documentary “The Rebellious Life of Mrs. Rosa Parks,” from 2-3:45 p.m., Feb. 23, in the meeting room. The film explores the civil rights activist’s decades of work — beyond her role in the Montgomery Bus Boycott and diving deeper into her radical politics, organizing and lifelong dedication. The screening event will include tea and popcorn.

Santa Rosa BHM events

Talk with civil rights activist Peggy Preacely, Feb. 1

The Saturday Afternoon Club will host a public talk with civil rights activist Peggy Trotter Dammond Preacely from 7:30-9 p.m., Feb. 1, at its historic Santa Rosa clubhouse. Cosponsored with The Nubian Café Collective, the evening will give the public an opportunity to hear firsthand from the longtime activist, speaker and former Freedom Rider. Tickets are $25 in advance and $30 at the door. Purchase tickets on Eventbrite.

430 10th St., Santa Rosa, 707-852-3029, thesaturdayafternoonclub.com, peggytrotterdammondpreacely.com

Transit Equity Day free rides and celebration, Feb. 4

Transit Equity Day, Feb. 4, honors civil rights leader Rosa Parks and promotes the importance of safe, public transportation that’s accessible to all. Sonoma County’s bus transit agencies are partnering with NAACP Santa Rosa-Sonoma to observe the day, during which all bus rides on Sonoma County Transit, Santa Rosa CityBus and Petaluma Transit will be fare free.

Additionally, Santa Rosa CityBus will host a commemorative meetup to celebrate the day at 10 a.m., Feb. 4, at Santa Rosa’s downtown Transit Mall on Second Street. Kirstyne Lange, president of the local branch of the NAACP, and Santa Rosa mayor Mark Stapp will be at the event to honor those who have “helped advance equity in public transit and to discuss the future of public transit,” according to the City of Santa Rosa’s press release.

sctransit.com, srcitybus.org

Cirque Kalabanté performance, Feb. 19

Storming into the Luther Burbank Center for the Arts at 7:30 p.m., Feb. 19, is Cirque Kalabanté, a high-energy show of West African drumming, dancing and tumbling — think Cirque du Soleil on a kicky world beat, with the noise turned up to 11.

The troupe, which trains in Montreal, recently sold out shows in New York and arrives fresh from a monthlong tour in the Netherlands and the UK. Set in a fictional Guinean fishing village, the show knits together humor and tradition with jaw-dropping acrobatics and a live soundtrack that will bring the house down.

Tickets range from $35–$49, depending on seat choice, plus fees. Purchase tickets online or in person at the LBC box office.

Luther Burbank Center for the Arts, 50 Mark West Springs Road, Santa Rosa, 707-546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org, kalabanteproductions.com

‘The African American Journey Through Art’ Conversation, Feb. 23

The Museum of Sonoma County will host a panel discussion, “Reflected Truths, Refracted Realities: The African American Journey Through Art,” from 2-3 p.m., Feb. 23. Four Black artists will join the panel to examine truths and challenges of systemic racism intertwined with history and identity — and how their art mirrors those complexities of the Black American experience. Tickets are $10 per person and free for museum members. Register online.

425 Seventh St., Santa Rosa, 707-579-1500, museumsc.org

Petaluma BHM events

Dorian Bartley, of The Dorian Mode, plays vintage jazz and blues music at the 4th Annual Jazz Concert Celebrating Black History Month at the Petaluma Historical Library and Museum on Friday, February 5, 2016. More Petaluma events celebrating black history this month can be found at www.petalumamuseum.com. (ASHLEY COLLINGWOOD/FOR THE ARGUS-COURIER) — Dorian Bartley, of The doRiaN Mode, plays vintage jazz and blues music at the Petaluma Historical Library and Museum. This year’s annual Jazz Concert Celebrating Black History Month, featuring The doRiaN Mode, happens Feb. 7 at the Polly Klaas Community Theater in Petaluma. (Ashley Collingwood/for the Petaluma Argus-Courier)

The doRiaN Mode Jazz Concert, Feb. 7

Petaluma Blacks for Community Development will host its annual Jazz Concert Celebrating Black History Month starting at 7 p.m., Feb. 7, at the Polly Klaas Community Theater. The evening will feature Bay Area band The doRiaN Mode, winners in the 2024 North Bay Music Awards for Best Jazz Band. The doRiaN Mode, founded in 2013 by Dorian Bartley, specializes in vintage jazz, swing and early R&B. Tickets are $50 per person. Purchase tickets on Eventbrite.

Polly Klaas Community Theater, 417 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-769-1334, pollyklaastheater.org, pbcd4us.com

‘Blacks in the Labor Force’ exhibit, Feb. 13 – March 30

The Petaluma Historical Library & Museum will host the exhibit, “Blacks in the Labor Force: Breaking Barriers, Building Legacies,” opening with a reception from 5-7 p.m., Feb. 13, and running through March 30. Petaluma Blacks for Community Development will present the exhibit, which honors Black labor leaders and highlights Black workers’ largely untold contributions to the economic development of the United States. Admission is free, donations appreciated.

20 Fourth St., Petaluma, 707-778-4398, petalumamuseum.com

West County BHM events

‘Get Up, Stand Up’ exhibit, through Feb. 15

Currently on exhibit through Feb. 15 at the Occidental Center for the Arts is ‘Get Up, Stand Up,’ part of the center’s annual Black History Month show. The exhibit features works by the center’s artists as well as from the Black history collection of Raynetta James, of Forestville, who lived through the Civil Rights Movement. There will be an artist reception with refreshments from 2-4 p.m., Feb. 2, at the art center. Winners from the center’s People’s Choice Awards will be announced at 3 p.m.

3850 Doris Murphy Court, Occidental, 707-874-9392, occidentalcenterforthearts.org

Santa Rosa rapper Damion Square who performs as D. Square, performs during Black 2 the Future at Hop Monk Tavern in Sebastopol, Saturday, Feb. 18, 2023. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2023

Black 2 the Future, Feb. 21

Local event promotion group Decolonized Mindz Entertainment will present “Black 2 the Future: Black History Month Community Awards & Performances” from 7-10 p.m., Feb. 21, at the Sebastopol Center for the Arts. Hosted by Damion Square, an SRJC alum, Bay Area hip-hop artist and founder of Decolonized Mindz, the evening will include awards recognizing outstanding individuals in the community as well as performances by Bay Area artists showcasing Black history and culture. Performers include rapper, poet and educator Kayatta; hip-hop and soul artist Erica Ambrin; singer/songwriter Audio Angel; rapper PaqGod and producer DJ Konnex. General admission is $15 and a cocktail table for two to three people is $50, plus fees. Purchase tickets on Eventbrite.

282 S. High St., Sebastopol, 707-829-4797, sebarts.org

Did we miss any local Black History Month events? Email them to reporter Maci Martell at maci.martell@pressdemocrat.com.

Gundlach Bundschu Winery in Sonoma Keeps Building on Tradition

January 2025

By Tina Caputo

Best Sonoma wineries Gundlach Bundschu — The courtyard at Gundlach Bundschu Winery in Sonoma. (wool + soon / Gundlach Bundschu Winery)

Gundlach Bundschu is the second-oldest winery in Sonoma County — nearby Buena Vista beats it for the top spot by six months — and one of the oldest in California, yet the historic Sonoma winery is anything but stuffy.

The story

In the mid-1800s, Jacob Gundlach set off from his native Germany looking to strike it rich in the California Gold Rush. Fate had other plans for him, however. Gundlach was shipwrecked on his way across the Atlantic, and by the time he finally made it to San Francisco a year later, most of the surface gold was gone. Gundlach needed a profession, so he did what any ambitious, beer-loving German would do: He founded a brewery — and used the money he earned to start a winery.

The cave experience at Gundlach Bundschu in Sonoma includes a stroll through the 10,000-square-foot caverns, sampling wines along the way, plus tidbits of juicy family history and a visit to the vineyards to learn about the winery’s certified-regenerative farming methods. (wool + son / Gundlach Bundschu Winery)

In 1858, Gundlach bought a 400-acre parcel in Sonoma, christened it Rhinefarm and began planting vines. Another German immigrant, Charles Bundschu, joined him a decade later and together they built J. Gundlach & Co. into a thriving wine business. After Gundlach died in 1894, the winery’s name changed to Gundlach Bundschu. In the years to follow, the company outlasted both the 1906 earthquake — though it completely destroyed the winery’s San Francisco headquarters — and Prohibition, which prompted the family to turn its efforts to cultivating fruit trees and growing grapes for sacramental wines. Through it all, and for decades after Prohibition, the family always maintained at least 100 acres of wine grapes.

Gundlach Bundshu’s modern incarnation began in 1973, when fifth-generation winegrower Jim Bundschu relaunched the winery side of the business. Jim’s son Jeff now runs the show, overseeing 270 acres of organically and regeneratively farmed grapes at Rhinefarm, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Gewürztraminer and even Tempranillo.

The vibe

The Barrel Room at Gundlach Bundschu Winery in Sonoma. (Gundlach Bundschu Winery)

Rhinefarm is just a 10-minute drive from the Sonoma Plaza. Gun-Bun, as the winery is affectionately known, offers a few different sipping and sampling areas, from picnic tables on the patio to a traditional tasting room lined with old family photos and vintage posters. My new favorite spot is the Barrel Room, a groovy lounge outfitted with comfy leather sofas, tables and plush armchairs. Decor aside, the winery has long been known for its fun-loving, irreverent spirit — Jim Bundschu once staged a Western-style “holdup” of the Napa Wine Train, treating passengers to samples of his own wines — and that tradition continues today.

On the palate

Jacob Gundlach planted the first Gewürztraminer at Rhinefarm in 1858, and the grape has had a home on the property ever since. The 2023 Sonoma Valley Dry Gewürztraminer ($29) reminds me of how lovely this wine can be, with its orange blossom aroma and mouthwatering flavors of peaches and citrus.

At Gundlach Bundschu Winery in Sonoma. (Gundlach Bundschu Winery)

Cabernet Sauvignon is the winery’s signature red, and they do it well, but the 2021 Sonoma Coast Zinfandel ($56) stole my heart on a recent visit. This isn’t one of those big and jammy numbers; this tasting-room-only rendition has holiday spice aromas, impressive structure, and juicy cherry and berry flavors.

Tastings range from $25 for an O.G. bar tasting to $80 for the immersive Winter Cave & Vineyard Tour. The cave experience includes a stroll through the 10,000-square-foot caverns, sampling wines along the way, plus tidbits of juicy family history and a visit to the vineyards to learn about the winery’s certified-regenerative farming methods.

Beyond the bottle

On “third Thursdays” throughout the winter, Gun-Bun hosts Hi-Fi Happy Hour from 5-7 p.m. in the Barrel Room. Bundschu family members spin vinyl selections on the vintage turntable (Jeff Bundschu is a music fanatic, staging folk-indie performances at the winery throughout the year) while guests kick back and enjoy $10 glasses of wine. Feeling snacky? You can purchase pizza by the slice.

2000 Denmark St., Sonoma, 707-938-5277, gunbun.com

Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.

Fine Dining Chefs From Table Culture Provisions Taking Over Easy Rider Space in Petaluma

January 2025

By Heather Irwin

Chef Stéphane Saint Louis puts finishing touches on a dinner dish at Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (Crissy Pascual/Petaluma Argus-Courier)

The owners of Table Culture Provisions (TCP) will open a new French-inspired restaurant, Bijou, at the former Easy Rider in downtown Petaluma after plans to take over the former Quinua Cocina Peruana (500 Petaluma Blvd. S.) stalled.

“It’s our little jewel,” said Table Culture Provisions executive chef and co-owner Stéphane Saint Louis of the contemporary California-French restaurant slated to open in May. Saint Louis will head the kitchen while business partners Marta Saint Louis and chef de cuisine Steven Vargas remain at Table Culture Provisions.

Easy Rider, a 60-seat restaurant in the heart of Petaluma’s restaurant and entertainment district, closed Dec. 31 amid speculation that a new owner was taking over the space. At the time, Easy Rider co-owner Jared Rogers said he was legally bound not to disclose details but hinted that a Sonoma County restaurateur might take over the location.

The owners of Table Culture Provisions (TCP) will open a new French-inspired restaurant, Bijou, in Petaluma — Chefs/owners Steven Vargas, left, and Stéphane Saint Louis at Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. The duo will open a new French-inspired restaurant, Bijou, at the former Easy Rider. (Kim Carroll)

While Table Culture Provision’s tiny 10-table restaurant at 312 Petaluma Blvd. S. will continue its focus on multicourse fine dining, Bijou will offer a more casual experience Saint Louis likens to TCP’s social hour menu.

Offered from 4-6 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, the paired down à la carte social hour menu includes larger entrées like a Della Fattoria rosemary boule stuffed with Red Hawk cheese from Cowgirl Creamery, Flannery Steak & Frites with a black peppercorn sauce or daily fresh made pasta, most under $40. The seven-course tasting menu at TCP is $135 per person.

“Bijou is Social Hour on steroids,” said Saint Louis.

Though the menu is still in development, Saint Louis offered up Beef Wellington, seasonal stuffed Caramelle pasta or colossal Prawns à la Provençale and desserts from TCP executive pastry chef Sylvain Parsy, including opera cake and rum baba, as potential dishes.

“It’s French technique creating a Sonoma County farm-to-table, seasonal dining,” said Saint Louis. The restaurant will also offer brunch and coffee and pastries on weekends, he said.

While Sonoma County has seen a renaissance of French cuisine, with the openings of nearby Brigitte Bistro, Augie’s in Santa Rosa and Maison Porcella in Windsor, Saint Louis is clear that Bijou isn’t a bistro but “Bistronomy” — serving approachable dishes with high-end cooking techniques.

Saint Louis said the 60-seat Bijou will also have cocktail and wine programs and some late-night hours on the weekend.

Stay tuned for more details.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Where to Get the Best Croissants in Sonoma County

January 2025

By Heather Irwin

Croissants from Quail & Condor in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Quail & Condor)

Croissants are meant to be noisy, messy things that crunch and shatter and leave buttery crumbs everywhere. Anything less is simply a roll.

Sarmentine

French baker Alexandra Zandvliet has spent years perfecting her croissant game. European-style butter makes her flaky croissants — especially the chocolate filled ones — extra yummy. Sarmentine also sells day-old pastries, which warm up beautifully in a toaster oven. 52 Mission Circle, Suite 112, Santa Rosa; 6760 McKinley St., Sebastopol; 840 Petaluma Blvd North, Petaluma, 707-623-9595, sarmentine.com

Pascaline

Chefs Didier Pascal Ageorges and Lynn Chia serve up truly French patisseries (plus lunch and dinner) at their Santa Rosa cafe. 1021 Hahman Drive in Santa Rosa, 707-823-3122, pascalinebistro.com

Marla Bakery

After relocating to Sonoma County from San Francisco, this husband-and-wife team have created a solid following for their breads, but the Crebble, a croissant-like muffin covered in maple sugar and sea salt, is a favorite. Marla opened a location in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square in 2023. 208 Davis St., Santa Rosa, 707-852-4091, marlabakery.com

Village Bakery

This Sonoma County staple relocated to Sebastopol Road in 2019, where it serves up as-good-as-ever croissants like ham and cheese, pesto asiago and chocolate. Grab an eclair and cardamom roll while you’re there. 3851 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, 707-829-8101, villagebakerywinecountry.com

Red Bird Bakery

One-stop-shop for all things sweet (and a few savories!). Husband-and-wife team Isaac and Linda Cermak are talented bakers who have two bakery locations in addition to their farm market offerings. 556 E. Cotati Ave., Cotati, 707-521-9838; 463 Sebastopol Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-544-3663, redbirdbakery.com

Varieties of croissants available at Quail & Condor bakery Monday, Jan. 6, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Quail and Condor

Crisp, flaky croissants that are second-to-none. Seasonal flavors include chocolate pumpkin, along with ongoing classics like almond, chocolate and plain. 149 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-473-8254, quailandcondor.com

Costeaux French Bakery

Costeaux’s daily fresh-baked breads and pastries include dazzling almond croissants generously topped with slivered almonds and dusted with powered sugar. Having a rough morning? Go for the dreamy chocolate croissants. 417 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-1913, costeaux.com

Baker and Cook

The buttery goodness of this tiny cafe’s croissants makes us squeal with delight. Their beans and greens breakfast also is a favorite (and is something healthy to pair with your croissants!). 18812 Highway 12, Sonoma, 707-938-7329, bakerandcooksonoma.com

Les Pascals

Lines of Saturday cyclists form outside this cheery yellow Glen Ellen bakery for pastries from yet another team of charming French expats, Pascal and Pascale. Don’t miss the almond croissants. 13758 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-934-8378, lespascalspatisserie.com

Nutella cornetto filled with the creamy chocolate and hazelnut spread, drizzled with chocolate ganache, and topped with whole toasted hazelnuts, at Stellina Pronto. (Courtesy Stellina Pronto) — Nutella cornetto, a sort of Italian croissant, filled with creamy chocolate and hazelnut spread, drizzled with chocolate ganache, and topped with whole toasted hazelnuts, at Stellina Pronto in Petaluma. (Courtesy Stellina Pronto)

Stellina Pronto

Pastries and pizza with an Italian twist. Ridiculously good, well, everything, including their cream puffs and daily focaccia sandwiches. Their Instagram (@stellinapronto) looks so tasty you’ll be drooling. 23 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-789-9556, stellinapronto.com

Blooms End at Tenfold Farmstand

Every Friday, Blooms End’s pastry chef Mary Denham brings her croissants and pastries to Petaluma’s newest farm market. Sweet and savory flavors have included coffee cardamom, chocolate ganache, tomato and cheddar, and roasted garlic with pecorino cheese. Preorders recommended. 5300 Red Hill Road, Petaluma, tenfoldfarmstand.com

Patisserie Angelica

This longtime bakery and cake shop has daily almond croissants, plus cream scones and fruit tarts. Having dessert for breakfast isn’t a bad thing. 6821 Laguna Park Way, Sebastopol, 707-827-7998, patisserieangelica.com

Cooking Classes at Sonoma, Napa Vineyards Are the Best Way To Get a Taste of Wine Country

January 2025

By Carey Sweet

Bricoleur Vineyards in Windsor offers pasta making classes with Senior Sous Chef Rebeca Robinson. (Bricoleur Vineyards)

Wineries are not allowed to be restaurants, as decreed by a decades-old ordinance that essentially says wineries are forbidden to make a profit on things that don’t promote wine sales. Yet the typical guest at an elevated tasting experience might never realize that, given the opulent meals prepared by big name chefs at many high-end Wine Country destinations.

For winery chefs, whether they are consultants or employees, the work balances a fine line. Technically, by law, only a handful of California wineries are allowed to have full-service restaurants, due to complicated permit restrictions. But local wineries can offer gourmet “bites” with flights of wine for “educational” purposes.

“We are not a restaurant. We are just doing food and wine pairings,” said Mark Hanson, founder of Bricoleur Vineyards. The winery offers Atelier Bricoleur, a five-course wine and food pairing from celebrity chef Todd Knoll at a private table overlooking the gleaming kitchen ($580 per person). “So when you come and do a tasting, we have a full culinary and food service license, which took about two-and-a-half years to get. That’s what the county will allow; we are not an ad hoc restaurant.”

Bricoleur Vineyards in Windsor offers pasta making classes with wine — Bricoleur Vineyards in Windsor offers pasta making classes with Senior Sous Chef Rebeca Robinson. (Courtesy Bricoleur Vineyards)

The key word is “pairing,” so at this lavish Windsor estate, the meal’s price cleverly includes wine, and a staff educator discusses the crafting and nuances of each pour.

Now, some wineries are taking things further into the culinary realm, and hosting cooking classes. It’s a win-win for wine lovers, as they sip and learn about the great grapes while getting hands-on guidance through artful recipes they might recreate at home.

Should they want to purchase the complementary wines they tasted through each course at dinner — oops, the pairing — even better for the winery.

Note that winery cooking classes tend to sell out fast, so make your reservation early. Some wineries also offer exclusive activities to wine club members, such as access to special dinners and interactive culinary events with estate chefs.

Bricoleur Vineyards

Periodically, Bricoleur’s senior sous chef Rebeca Robinson hosts “Pasta Making with Chef Becca” classes in the winery’s Culinary Kitchen. An upcoming class on Feb. 28 ($125) focuses on the art of stuffed pasta. Its starts with crafting delicate pasta dough from scratch, then making savory fillings to be sealed inside ravioli and tortellini.

The three-hour classes include a welcome glass of Isla Rose Brut Rosé bubbles, a glass of wine while interacting with the class, and a glass of wine with the dinner you made, including focaccia, salad and dessert.

With just 10 seats available, the February and March classes have already sold out. Check Bricoleur’s events page for upcoming classes.

7394 Starr Road, Windsor, 707-857-5700, bricoleurvineyards.com

Cakebread Cellars

For a uniquely custom experience, the winery’s in-house culinary team leads private cooking classes where you can help plan the menus. Hands-on instruction is limited to parties of 10 to 12 guests for lunch or dinner, and features a full winery experience.

You spend the morning or afternoon working with your friends, family or colleagues as the chef shares secrets of the kitchen. Next, you tour the winery. Then it’s on to an appetizer reception and three-course plated meal featuring your own cooking, all paired with wine. Prices vary, and you can upgrade to library wines if you like.

8300 St. Helena Highway, Rutherford, 800-588-0298, cakebread.com

Culinary Institute of America Greystone and CIA at Copia

The imposing St. Helena mansion was built as Greystone Cellars in 1889 as a gravity-flow cooperative winery serving upper Napa Valley grape growers. At the time, it was the largest stone winery in the world. After the Christian Brothers purchased the property in 1950, it expanded into more wines, plus brandies and ports.

Today, you can take food and wine classes in its stately (and now state-of-the-art) kitchen cathedrals, such as the upcoming March 2 session on “California Cheeses and The Wines That Love Them.” You’ll learn the basics of how cheese is made, and the best ways to buy, age, store, serve and cook with cheese. You’ll also taste a broad selection of California cheeses and California wines, evaluate each for flavor, texture and best (plus worst) pairings.

The Culinary Institute of America as seen from the CIA farm at the Charles Krug Winery in St. Helena. (Alvin Jornada / For The Press Democrat) — The Culinary Institute of America Greystone as seen from the CIA farm at the Charles Krug Winery in St. Helena. (Alvin Jornada / For The Press Democrat)

The newly opened CIA at Copia, in Napa, offers daily cooking classes for the food-loving public (Photo: Victor M. Samuel) — The Culinary Institute of America at Copia, in Napa, offers cooking classes for the food-loving public (Photo: Victor M. Samuel)

For a deeper dive into cooking, scoot down the road to CIA at Copia in Napa, where you can enroll in year-round classes like CIA Skills: Easy Entertaining (March 29, $175). It’s one hour of learning hands-on techniques to make elegant hors d‘oeuvres, canapés, spreads and artful cheese platters, plus an hour enjoying the meal with Greystone wine.

Then, sample more wines at each location’s wine bar, for high-tech, automated, self-serve experiences offering local and international wines.

Note that CIA classes fill up quickly and almost always sell out, so reserve quickly, and know that you can also sign up for the waiting list.

CIA Greystone, 2555 Main St., St Helena, 707-967-1100, ciafoodies.com/cia-greystone

CIA at Copia, 500 First St., Napa, 800-888-7850, ciaatcopia.com

Jacuzzi Family Vineyards

Gnocchi is a fun word to say (NYOW-kee), and even more fun to make.

Chef Oscar Bendeck, owner of The Wine Country Collective in Sonoma, is leading a class ($145) at the Sonoma winery on March 23, sharing how to put together the classic Italian dish traditionally made with mashed potato, flour and egg. The ingredients are simple, but the craft takes skill to result in pillowy, light and springy dumplings.

The class includes a wine-paired lunch on the winery’s patio overlooking a protected wetland preserve.

24724 Arnold Drive, Highway 121, Sonoma, 707-931-7516, jacuzziwines.com/events

Napa Chef de Cuisine Vincenzo Loseto Competes on ‘Top Chef’

January 2025

By Heather Irwin

A dish at PRESS Restaurant Napa Valley in St. Helena. (John Troxell/Courtesy Suited Hospitality)

A Napa chef will join the Season 22 cast of “Top Chef” when it debuts March 13 on Bravo.

Chef Vincenzo Loseto, chef de cuisine of St. Helena’s one Michelin-starred Press restaurant, joins 14 rising star chefs from the United States and Canada for the chance to win $250,000 and the title of “Top Chef.” The winner will also receive a feature in Food & Wine magazine and headline a dinner at the James Beard House in New York.

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A post shared by Vincenzo Loseto (@v_loseto)

The Bay Area’s Anna El-Wattar of San Francisco’s Birch & Rye is also a contestant, along with chefs from Kentucky, Texas, New York, Los Angeles, Chicago and Montreal.

Shot in Canada, this season of “Top Chef” will showcase ingredients from throughout the country’s forests, prairies, farms and coastlines. The contestants will also perform decidedly nonculinary stunts, including a climb on the 1,815-foot National Tower in Toronto.

Chefs Casey Thompson of the now-closed Folktable restaurant and Douglas Keane of Cyrus are both former “Top Chef” contestants. Keane also won “Top Chef Masters” in 2013.

More details about the show at bravotv.com/top-chef.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Joe Matos Cheese Factory in Santa Rosa Closing

January 2025

By Heather Irwin

Sylvia Tucker looks over the shutdown production facility at Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. After selling their remaining inventory, the 45-year-old cheesemaking operation will officially close Jan. 31. Wednesday January 29, 2025. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

When Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. shut down production of its Portugese-style St. Jorge cheese in November 2024, the writing was on the wall. After selling their remaining inventory, the 45-year-old cheesemaking operation will officially close Jan. 31.

“We were just going underwater,” said owner Sylvia Tucker, daughter of founders Joe and Mary Matos. She points to her 84-year-old father’s declining health, an insurance claim that raised their rates by 25% and the growing political and economic pressures on small family dairies as the main reasons for the closure.

The family’s buttery, nutty aged raw milk cheese was produced on-site using milk from their 35 dairy cows and was a frequent sight on artisan charcuterie boards at restaurants and wineries. Joe Matos brought the seventh-generation recipe to Sonoma County from São Jorge Island in the Azorez, where he was born.

“Our dream was to keep it going for him through more generations. It’s just hard to see it end after so long,” Tucker said, tearing up during the phone interview. Her father understands the need for the closure, and now is focused on staying in his home as long as possible.

Sylvia Tucker visits with Matilda at Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. After selling their remaining cheese inventory, the 45-year-old cheesemaking operation will officially close Jan. 31. Wednesday January 29, 2025. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat) — Sylvia Tucker visits with Matilda at Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. After selling their remaining cheese inventory, the 45-year-old cheesemaking operation will officially close Jan. 31. Photographed Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

After the whey has been drained from the curd, workers fill forms for the wheels of St. George’s cheese produced at the Joe Matos Cheese Factory in southwest Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The Matos’ closure could be sign of more trouble for artisan cheesemakers in the North Bay. In December, nearby Bohemain Creamery shuttered after 14 years.

“I think it’s going to get worse before it gets better,” Tucker said.

Local dairies, once plentiful, have precipitously dropped in recent years due to rising feed, fuel and labor costs. In early January, a dozen dairy and beef cattle farmers agreed to cease operations and suspend their leases after a drawn out battle over the Point Reyes National Seashore. Environmentalists hailed it as a win for the restoration of local flora and fauna.

“It’s generations of families all around us,” said Tucker.

Restaurateur Gerard Nebesky of Gerard’s Paella laments the loss.

“Joe Matos has been a secret weapon for Sonoma County chef arsenals for so many years. His cheese truly elevates anything it comes into play with. It’s just a shame to see this go,” Nebesky said.

For now, Tucker and her family plan to continue raising beef cattle. Plans to reopen the cheese factory someday are murky, but Tucker said she hopes to continue Matos’ legacy.

“I’m keeping most of my cows and maybe somewhere in the future I’ll be able to start it back up. That’s definitely my hope,” she said.

Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. will be open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily through Jan. 31 selling the last of its cheese. 3669 Llano Road, Santa Rosa, 707-584-5283, joematoscheeseco.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Japanese-Style Shokakko Food Truck Serves up Unique Dishes in Sonoma County

January 2025

By Heather Irwin

The “Mother-Clucker” sandwich with twice fried chicken, slaw, pickled jalepeño, bang bang dip on a toasted brioche bun from Shokakko, an Asian street food truck on their regular Thursday night visit Jan. 23, 2025 at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

What happens when you merge crab Rangoon and mozzarella sticks?

A fantastical Franken-croquette stuffed with gooey cheese, dots of artificial crab and cream cheese enrobed in a crispy crust. It’s over-the-top like a hot fudge sundae with extra whipped cream — too much, but never enough.

It’s also how a trio of fine dining chefs have put their fledgling food truck, Shokakko, on the radar of Sonoma County foodies.

That, and their loaded fries with Spam.

Shokakko Food Truck — Crab and Cheese Croquettes from Shokakko, an Asian street food truck, on their regular Thursday night visit, Jan. 23, 2025, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

“It’s the things we liked eating on our days off. The stuff we couldn’t find in Sonoma County,” said chef Elijah Trujillo of the food trailer he cofounded with his partner Kayla Hendrix and friend Kazuya “Kaz” Makishima in August 2024.

Tired of fine dining foams and tweezers, this merry band of young chefs drew inspiration from the late-night yatai food stalls in Japan that sell ramen, fish cakes and skewers of grilled chicken. The trio uses highbrow culinary skills to create cream-filled fruit sandwiches, skyscraper-sized fried chicken sandwiches, pork katsu fries and husky crab and cheese-filled croquettes.

Shokakko, which means small but certain happiness in Japanese, is all about salty, sweet, creamy, spicy, hot mess dishes that go better with a pint of IPA than an oaky Cabernet.

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In the weeds

On a warm Thursday evening in January, the 8-by-16-foot Shokakko trailer was parked outside Old Caz brewpub in Rohnert Park. It’s one of several breweries they visit in a monthly food truck round-robin. Some days, they are at private events or visit surefire nosh spots like Outer Planes comics and games in Santa Rosa, where they first set up shop.

By 5:30 p.m., there’s a growing line of hungry customers. Inside the narrow galley kitchen, Flo Rida sets the beat as the crew weaves around each other without a missed step. All three sport dark aprons, black shirts, messy buns and tattooed forearms, giving punk rock vibes.

But tidy containers of saffron threads and bias-cut scallions are unmistakable giveaways of their white-tablecloth backgrounds.

Pork Belly Donburi with kimchi, bok choy and bang bang dip from Shokakko, an Asian street food truck on their regular Thursday night visit Jan. 23, 2025, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Pork Belly Donburi with kimchi, bok choy and bang bang dip from Shokakko, an Asian street food truck. Photographed on their regular Thursday night visit, Jan. 23, 2025, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

“Two dons all day,” says Trujillo, while wrapping an intimidatingly large “Mother-Clucker” sandwich and relaying orders for donburi rice bowls ($16-18), best eaten with braised pork belly or Japanese curry. Vegetarian options are also available.

Makishima mans the fryer, turning out piles of Kamakazi fries ($12-$16) that are required eating. The weight of this overly-generous pile of seasoned fries is wrist-injuring and is drizzled with a sweet chili sauce mayo, gochujang glaze (made with chili crunch, fermented chili sauce and savory red chili paste) and furikake (a Japanese condiment). Add cubes of fried Spam to the unholy mound, because you can.

Twice-fried chicken sandwiches ($16) are five-napkin affairs. Go for the “Mother-Clucker” with piles of slaw, pickled jalapeños and “Bang Bang” dip made with gochujang, chili crunch and fermented chiles on a brioche bun. It’s fiery and filled with umami but not tongue-singeing.

Try everything

On a lucky night you can find specials like Miso Banana Pudding on the menu at Shokakko, an Asian street food truck Thursday Jan. 23, 2025 at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — On a lucky night you can find specials like Miso Banana Pudding on the menu at Shokakko. Photographed Thursday, Jan. 23, 2025, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Hendrix is the doyenne of sweets. On my visit, her banana pudding layered with sweet-savory miso sauce is served in a cheeky 16-ounce Solo cup. It’s nostalgic and genre-bending but will inevitably give way to another of pastry chef Hendrix’s whims — like the Japanese milk bread sandwich filled with whipped cream and fruit that sends the Sonoma County Foodies Facebook page into a frenzy.

“It got ridiculous. They would sell out in an hour,” said Makishima of the snaking queues for the dessert. I hint that they should return them to the menu, but Hendrix isn’t biting. They all agree that changing the menu frequently is what makes the job fun.

There are plenty of other Shokakko goodies on the menu, including Spam Musubi ($6), black garlic string beans with fried shallots ($9) and a kids menu with chicken fingers or a veggie and rice bowl.

Hendrix encourages people to dive into the menu with abandon and take a leap of faith.

“Don’t be afraid to order something you don’t know,” she said. “We’ve always got something new.”

You can find the Shokakko’s latest schedule of stops at Instagram.com/eat_shokakko. They’re typically open from 2 p.m. until they sell out Wednesday through Saturday, but the schedule changes frequently.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

‘There’s Power in Being the Underdog’: Bazaar Sonoma Serves Unapologetic Chinese Cuisine in a Cozy, Creative Space

January 2025

By Heather Irwin

The Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini team, left to right, Em Grayho, co-owners chef Sean Quan and Jenny Phan with chef Clayton Carter run Forestville’s new restaurant, Oct. 17, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

On a chilly Monday afternoon, chef Sean Quan fills an electric kettle for tea behind the counter of Bazaar Sonoma, aka BaSo, the rural Forestville restaurant he co-owns with his wife, Jenny Phan.

It’s the couple’s only day off from running their increasingly busy operation, and as Quan waits for the water to boil, he walks around the space, grabbing sturdy teacups, pouring sunflower seeds into a dish, and filling the pot with roasted corn kernels, which make a surprisingly delicious brew. Last week’s menu sits nearby, with most of the dim sum dishes crossed out, signifying they were sold out. Bags of roasted chicken wing and crayfish-flavored Lays potato chips dangle temptingly from a hook above the cash register.

“Asians have a great snack game,” says Quan.

For the past three years, the couple, who moved to Sonoma County from Chicago for Quan to take a position at SingleThread, have created a series of adventurous (and often very secretive) pop-up dinners: fried chicken, through their late-night Second Staff restaurant takeovers; dim sum, with the high-low concept FNCY + PNTS; and traditional Chinese cuisine “with untraditional values” at The Matriarch.

Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo Chinese restaurant — Co-owner Jenny Phan chats with local Barbra Friedman at Forestville’s new Chinese restaurant Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini, Oct. 17, 2024. Phan runs the front of the house, while her husband and co-owner chef Sean Quan works the kitchen. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Now, just a few months after taking over the perfectly imperfect space that’s been home to a nostalgic lineup of restaurants, including Backyard and Brew, Quan and Phan have embraced an unapologetic and ambitious menu of regional Chinese cuisine based heavily on Sichuan recipes. Creating their own restaurant on their terms is the goal, says Quan. “BaSo needs to be exciting and show that it’s different. There’s power in being the underdog.”

Not in their kitchen

Quan and Phan met in law school in Chicago before they both were absorbed into the world of high-end restaurants — Quan in the kitchen and Phan working front of house (and in the kitchen as needed). At Chicago’s Alinea, considered one of the best restaurants in the world, Quan’s first chef mentor was a tough but wise “Mr. Miyagi” type who guided him through the nearly unendurable quest for perfection.

Later, Quan took a position at a restaurant populated with fine dining “refugees” battered by abusive chefs, then was on the opening staff of a celebrity-fronted Los Angeles restaurant overly obsessed with stars. He ultimately became disillusioned with the situation.

“It’s easy to create a place people want to eat, but hard to create a place where people want to work at,” says Quan.

He cringes at the memory of watching a fellow cook kicked to the ground by an executive chef and stepped over. The horror stories are plentiful, especially at high-end restaurants where the pressure for perfection is crushing.

“It can be such an abusive environment,” he says. “I would never let something like that happen in my kitchen.”

Wonton noodle soup from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo, a Chinese restaurant — Wonton Noodle Soup with pork and shrimp dumplings from Bazaar Sonoma, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. The dumplings and egg noodles in perfumed broth are a loving tribute to Jenny Phan’s father. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

In Sonoma, Quan and Phan realized they could create the culture they longed for and explore a variety of concepts. Initially, they wanted to fry chicken for their industry friends who worked long, late hours. They cooked at breweries, cafes closed in the evening, wherever they could find a spot. It was all promoted by word of mouth and Instagram posts.

The pop-ups were purposefully tricky to find, says Quan, and the hours were confusing. “We wanted to see who would actually make it. The Second Staff was for locals, not people who were coming as a ‘bucket list’ thing to do. We wanted a restaurant that punishes you for being a tourist and not a local,” he says.

It’s not exactly exclusivity — more natural selection — and Quan insists there’s a logic to it. Growing the business organically and with community input allows BaSo the ability to adapt and grow. “There’s an opportunity to be playful, irreverent and candid.”

Out of the comfort zone

During the pandemic, Quan and Phan spent time in small, family-run Chinese and Korean restaurants in the suburbs of Los Angeles. Mostly tucked into strip malls, they’re aimed at local communities rather than food tourists.

“They’re not meant to be comfortable or user-friendly, and you’re lucky to taste that food — to be part of it for just one day,” he said. “Going out of your comfort zone is what makes it good.”

And that is also the idea of BaSo.

“We don’t want you to plan your whole day around coming here. It’s not a destination restaurant. I mean, if you do, we’re flattered… But we’re not trying to create some narrative-driven experience,” he explains.

And while BaSo’s menu of blazing-hot mapo tofu and handmade dumplings seems “authentic,” especially when there is a dearth of Chinese food in Sonoma County that hasn’t been Americanized, Quan shies away from the description.

“It’s more about being unapologetic. In China, they don’t make concessions to people’s comfort with the food. There are bones and gristle. You pick it out. That makes the food feel real.” Though you won’t find any gristly bits on his menu, Quan says Bazaar Sonoma is not about making things more palatable for a larger audience. “We respect your palate and your adventurousness,” he explains.

Zhong Dumplings with BaSo homemade chili crisp and sweet pork dumplings from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Zhong Dumplings with BaSo’s housemade chili crisp and sweet pork dumplings from Bazaar Sonoma, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. Zhong dumplings are a popular street snack in Chengdu. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Take the couple’s Zhong dumplings, a popular street snack in Chengdu, a city in central Sichuan province. This classic Sichuanese water dumpling filled with pork is all about the sauce. “It’s what cooks would call a perfect dish — it has everything, but it’s so simple,” said Quan. For the sauce, he mixes three kinds of soy sauce, brown sugar, garlic, a collection of Chinese spices and Bazaar Sonoma’s chili crunch into an unctuous, gravy-like consistency. Poured over the soft dumplings, it is an intoxicatingly sweet, spicy, savory mess that surprises with each bite.

“Every shop makes it a little different, depending on what they put in their chili crunch, spices, meats, but it’s irresistible … once you get it in your brain, you love it,” he says.

The Toyota rule

For Chinese New Year, celebrated in late January, the couple plans to serve a buffet of regional Chinese dishes, possibly on paper plates. Stressing their staff during the holiday just isn’t the point. Quan and Phan call it the Toyota Rule. If you ignore everything else, it’s easy to be perfect — to make a remarkably fast car like a Lamborghini, for example. But long-term sustainability and comfort are more nuanced — like a Toyota, made to last the duration.

Quan and Phan want to be that Toyota.

“What’s important is that you’re at a pace to keep you engaged but not strained,” says Quan. The couple strive to find that balance for their staff and create a safe, creative environment.

Shanghai Soup Dumplings with pork, scallion and ginger from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Shanghai Soup Dumplings with pork, scallion and ginger from Bazaar Sonoma, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The couple and their team continue to innovate. Later this winter, Quan and Phan plan to flesh out a new concept called Ugly Dumpling, where diners can bring frozen dumplings home or send them to the kitchen to be steamed onsite. Ultimately, they hope the restaurant will become a “third space” for the community.

It’s a new-old idea gaining more traction among restaurateurs who want their restaurants to serve more than just a meal. Instead, patrons are encouraged to linger, to stop by for tea or a snack, and to be in a place that isn’t home or work, but acts as a cozy alternative to both.

Sipping the last of his tea, Quan turns on color-changing LED chandeliers that bathe the restaurant in blue, red, purple and back to blue. The dining room glows, as an undulating green mural of west county hillsides and vineyards reflects the light.

“Come back for some tea sometime,” says Quan warmly, as dusk settles over the restaurant.

Standout dishes

Hot and Sour Potato Stir-Fry: Though made with the simplest of ingredients — grated potatoes and carrots, garlic, vinegar, salt and a bit of sugar — this dish is complex in a way that’s hard to explain. Potatoes are quickly wok-fried but left with a bit of crunch, then served cold, like a salad.

Silken Egg and Tomato: Stewed tomatoes sit atop a soft egg custard, like a savory flan. No chewing necessary.

Sizzling Black Cod for Two: Quan pours boiling oil over gently steamed fish and greens, adding intensity to the soy-ginger broth beneath — outstanding.

Toothpick Beef: Small bites of beef encrusted with cumin, fennel, sesame seeds, dried Chinese chiles, roasted brown sugar and a dusting of peanuts, served on tiny skewers for a nutty, slightly sweet, spicy punch.

Toothpick Beef dusted with peanuts and intense aromatics served as a finger food or over rice from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Toothpick Beef dusted with peanuts and intense aromatics served as a finger food or over rice from Bazaar Sonoma, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Mapo Tofu: If spicy is your thing, this roiling pot of silken tofu with broad beans, eggplant and chili is a thrill. Pair with jasmine rice to cool down the heat.

Old Beijing Noodles: Starchy noodles are topped with pork and sweet bean “Bolognese” sauce for an uncomplicated street food dish that bursts with flavor.

Wonton Noodle Soup: Light pork and shrimp dumplings and egg noodles in perfumed broth are a loving tribute to Jenny Phan’s father.

Read dining editor Heather Irwin’s first review of Bazaar Sonoma here.

Bazaar Sonoma Restaurant & Konbini, 6566 Front St., Forestville. 707-614-8056, bazaar-sonoma.com