Joe Matos Cheese Factory in Santa Rosa Closing

Will more local cheesemakers succumb to growing economic and political pressures?


When Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. shut down production of its Portugese-style St. Jorge cheese in November 2024, the writing was on the wall. After selling their remaining inventory, the 45-year-old cheesemaking operation will officially close Jan. 31.

“We were just going underwater,” said owner Sylvia Tucker, daughter of founders Joe and Mary Matos. She points to her 84-year-old father’s declining health, an insurance claim that raised their rates by 25% and the growing political and economic pressures on small family dairies as the main reasons for the closure.

The family’s buttery, nutty aged raw milk cheese was produced on-site using milk from their 35 dairy cows and was a frequent sight on artisan charcuterie boards at restaurants and wineries. Joe Matos brought the seventh-generation recipe to Sonoma County from São Jorge Island in the Azorez, where he was born.

“Our dream was to keep it going for him through more generations. It’s just hard to see it end after so long,” Tucker said, tearing up during the phone interview. Her father understands the need for the closure, and now is focused on staying in his home as long as possible.

Sylvia Tucker visits with Matilda at Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. After selling their remaining cheese inventory, the 45-year-old cheesemaking operation will officially close Jan. 31. Wednesday January 29, 2025. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Sylvia Tucker visits with Matilda at Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. After selling their remaining cheese inventory, the 45-year-old cheesemaking operation will officially close Jan. 31. Photographed Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Joe Matos Cheese Factory
After the whey has been drained from the curd, workers fill forms for the wheels of St. George’s cheese produced at the Joe Matos Cheese Factory in southwest Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The Matos’ closure could be sign of more trouble for artisan cheesemakers in the North Bay. In December, nearby Bohemain Creamery shuttered after 14 years.

“I think it’s going to get worse before it gets better,” Tucker said.

Local dairies, once plentiful, have precipitously dropped in recent years due to rising feed, fuel and labor costs. In early January, a dozen dairy and beef cattle farmers agreed to cease operations and suspend their leases after a drawn out battle over the Point Reyes National Seashore. Environmentalists hailed it as a win for the restoration of local flora and fauna.

“It’s generations of families all around us,” said Tucker.

Restaurateur Gerard Nebesky of Gerard’s Paella laments the loss.

“Joe Matos has been a secret weapon for Sonoma County chef arsenals for so many years. His cheese truly elevates anything it comes into play with. It’s just a shame to see this go,” Nebesky said.

For now, Tucker and her family plan to continue raising beef cattle. Plans to reopen the cheese factory someday are murky, but Tucker said she hopes to continue Matos’ legacy.

“I’m keeping most of my cows and maybe somewhere in the future I’ll be able to start it back up. That’s definitely my hope,” she said.

Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. will be open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily through Jan. 31 selling the last of its cheese. 3669 Llano Road, Santa Rosa, 707-584-5283, joematoscheeseco.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.