Best Sonoma County Restaurant Dishes of 2025

Duroc Pork Chop Milanese with lemon caper butter sauce from Stella Wednesday, March 26, 2025, in Kenwood. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

One of the most joyful stories I get to write each year is my annual Best Dishes list. These are the plates of pure perfection that make Sonoma County jealous of my job. But trust me: for every one of these dishes, there are easily 100 that don’t measure up. It’s rare to create something so memorable that it lingers in my mind for months — sometimes years — for its combination of flavors, top-notch ingredients, thought and care.

Admittedly, the list is entirely subjective, shaped by where I’ve dined (a lot of French restaurants this year), what I personally love and, occasionally, whether a chef was having a great day or a rough one. There’s no rubric here. My “methodology” is simply a long sift through my notes and an even longer scroll through my camera roll.

2025 has been a thrilling year of big openings, buzzy pop-ups and ambitious young chefs pushing boundaries. As ever, I remain convinced that Sonoma County is the most delicious place on earth, and this list, which I hope you’re not reading on an empty stomach, tells that story.

I’ve left out prices, since many have changed. Some dishes may be out of season or no longer available, but they represent the intention, skill and consistency of the kitchens behind them. I’ve yet to meet a restaurant with one extraordinary dish and everything else terrible.

As always, I’d love to hear about your favorite dishes — and whether I’ve missed any.

January

Shokakko dish
Building the towering “Mother-Clucker” sandwich at Shokakko, an Asian street food truck on their regular Thursday night visit Jan. 23, 2025, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The Mother Clucker — Shokakko

This fat, twice-fried chicken sando is the gateway drug to your Shokakko addiction. Sink into the crispy chicken breast topped with piles of slaw, pickled jalapeños and a “Bang Bang” dip made with gochujang, chili crunch and fermented chiles, all on a brioche bun. Japanese-style fruit sandos — soft milk bread filled with whipped cream and jewel-bright fruit — have nearly the cult following of Hello Kitty. 1040 N. Dutton Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-494-2264, Instagram.com/eat_shokakko

February

Duroc Pork Chop Milanese — Stella

One of Sonoma County’s biggest openings of 2025, this sibling to Glen Ellen Star leans into Italian classics with Wine Country flair. After spotting this dreamy pork chop on Instagram, we made a beeline for Kenwood. The thinly cut, breaded chop with creamy Meyer lemon-caper sauce was a table favorite. Also memorable: SF halibut crudo with strawberry acqua pazza, brown butter-walnut burrata, lumache pasta and the baked Alaska I’ve been praising since the restaurant’s February debut. 9049 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-801-8043, stellakenwood.com

Duroc Pork Chop Milanese with lemon caper butter sauce from Stella Wednesday, March 26, 2025, in Kenwood. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Duroc Pork Chop Milanese with lemon caper butter sauce from Stella Wednesday, March 26, 2025, in Kenwood. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The remodeled dining room at The Harbor House Inn in Elk uses the warmth of redwood found in groves along the Mendocino coast. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The remodeled dining room at The Harbor House Inn in Elk uses the warmth of redwood found in groves along the Mendocino coast. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Butter Poached Crab Leg — Harbor House

The two-Michelin-starred Harbor House is worth the pilgrimage to tiny Elk on the Mendocino Coast. Chef Matthew Kammerer’s 10-course tasting menu is a deep dive into the region’s flora, fauna and ocean bounty, with pristine ingredients pushed into ethereal territory. The showstopper? A single butter-poached crab leg wrapped in kombu, sealed inside a rock-shaped loaf of ashes and sand, then roasted in a wood-fired hearth. Cracking it open and unwrapping the kelp cocoon feels like a tiny piece of theater. 5600 S. Highway 1, Elk, 707-877-3203, theharborhouseinn.com

March

Winter Squash Ravioli with Brown Butter, Meyer Lemon, Dungeness Crab, Koji Nut Squash and Chestnuts — Diavola

A seasonal Sonoma County moment — winter ingredients from coast and field, brightened with Meyer lemon in a cozy brown butter sauce. Spring hasn’t quite sprung, but it’s close enough to taste. Chef-owner Dino Bugica is one of the county’s most reliable talents, and his housemade seasonal pasta remains one of my favorites. 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com

Diavola dish
Seasonal Dungeness crab and lemon pasta at Geyserville’s Diavola restaurant. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
dishes from L'Oro di Napoli in Petaluma
Patate e porchetta pizza from L’Oro di Napoli Friday, Feb. 28, 2025, at their second location in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Pistachio Pizza — L’Oro di Napoli

Neapolitan-style, wood-fired pizzas are the soul of L’Oro di Napoli, in both Santa Rosa and the newer Petaluma location. I fell in love with the pistachio pizza, topped with smoked cheese, pistachio pesto, mortadella, provolone cream and basil. 208 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-981-7175, lorodinapolica.com

Delicious Dish
Crab sandwich melt at Delicious Dish in Sonoma. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Fried Green Tomato and Crab Sandwich — Delicious Dish Provisions

This off-the-beaten-path café quietly turns out some of the best salads, ramen bowls and stacked sandwiches in Sonoma. You might remember chef-owners Lauren and Charles Cotner from their former Arnold Drive spot (now home to Valley Swim Club) and their food is as good as ever. The seasonal Dungeness crab melt is a fan favorite, and I got lucky: a few fried green tomatoes slipped into my brioche-bookended beauty for a surf-and-crunch upgrade. 565 Fifth St. W., Sonoma, 707-560-1060, deliciousdishsf.com

April

Garlic Knots — PizzaLeah

Leah Scurto may be the hardest-working pizzaiola in Sonoma County. Beyond spinning beloved pies, she’s launched a nonprofit supporting women in the pizza business, champions local farms and recently earned Slow Food Sonoma County’s Snail of Approval. Insiders rave about the Old Grey Beard — a swagger-filled pie layered with fontina, mozzarella, Italian sausage, Calabrian chiles, hot honey and orange zest. Don’t skip the deceptively simple Caesar or Uncle Frank’s meatballs, a secret family recipe dotted with pecorino and bathed in velvety tomato sauce. But the true show-stealers are the crispy, yeasty garlic knots, drenched in confit garlic oil and served with marinara and housemade ranch. 9240 Old Redwood Highway, No. 116, Windsor, 707-620-0551, pizzaleah.com

Garlic Knots with garlic oil, Parmesan and Italian parsley from PizzaLeah Wednesday, April 16, 2025, in Windsor. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Garlic Knots with garlic oil, Parmesan and Italian parsley from PizzaLeah Wednesday, April 16, 2025, in Windsor. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Asparagus Salad with local strawberries, whipped feta, espelette, almonds and lemon curd citronette from Poppy restaurant Thursday, June 12, 2025, in Glen Ellen. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Asparagus Salad with local strawberries, whipped feta, espelette, almonds and lemon curd citronette from Poppy restaurant Thursday, June 12, 2025, in Glen Ellen. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

May

Asparagus Salad — Poppy

After my first dinner at this Glen Ellen newcomer, I knew Poppy was bound for my Best Openings list. The Girl & the Fig sibling hit the ground running. I dubbed the asparagus salad “spring on a plate” — mild spears, tart-sweet Watmaugh strawberries and lemon curd forming a bright color wheel of flavor. Also exceptional: poulet rôti with crackling skin and rich vin jaune jus, a poached egg with morels, bread service with duck liver mousse and a baseball-size choux au craquelin filled with espresso mousse. 13690 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-938-2130, poppyglenellen.com

June

Spring Onion Gratin with Comté — Bistro Lagniappe

Sweet, caramelized onions and Comté cheese with a Parmesan foam is one of the best dishes I’ve eaten — think French onion soup without the soup and double the cheese. Mon Dieu! What remains on the menu is a plate of seasonal vegetables that sounded like ho-hum crudités but arrived as a rainbow of colors, textures and techniques — raw, roasted and pickled — and was also outstanding. 330 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-473-8181, lagniappehealdsburg.com

Plate of early summer vegetables from Bistro Lagniappe Thursday, June 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Plate of early summer vegetables from Bistro Lagniappe Thursday, June 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Steak & Frites with sauce au Poivre, beef jus and garden salad from Bijou, the new Petaluma restaurant from chef Stéphane Saint Louis Monday, July 1, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Steak & Frites with sauce au Poivre, beef jus and garden salad from Bijou, the new Petaluma restaurant from chef Stéphane Saint Louis Monday, July 1, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Steak Frites — Bijou

This elegant take on steak frites restored my faith in the French bistro classic after too many run-ins with gristly hanger steaks and gloopy Bordelaise. At Bijou, tender slices of steak are paired with a lush peppercorn sauce and fries parked neatly on the side to stay crisp for dunking. The dish narrowly edged out two other favorites: diver scallops with beurre blanc and crispy-skinned sea bass with creamy leeks and capers. Chef Stéphane Saint Louis remains a Sonoma County talent to watch. 190 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-753-9155, restaurantbijou.com

July

Giuseppe Pizza — Gabacool Provisions

A tent, a cooler full of cheese and three tabletop ovens were all Jeremy Clemens and Michele Querin needed to conquer Sonoma County’s pop-up pizza scene. While there are other contenders, Gabacool has truly dialed in its New York-style pies — especially the Giuseppe, a blistered round loaded with red sauce, mozzarella, Parmesan and pepperoni. The pizzas are named after The Sopranos characters, and there’s zero debate over the condiments: housemade ranch and hot honey. Parking-lot pizza at its finest. Locations and times at Instagram.com/gabacool_provisions.

Gabacool Provisions “Giuseppe” pizza in Santa Rosa on Thursday, January 30, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Gabacool Provisions “Giuseppe” pizza in Santa Rosa on Thursday, Jan. 30, 2025. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Beef Combination Pho Soup with steak, flank, brisket trip & meatball from VN Flavor restaurant Wednesday, August 3, 2025 in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Beef Combination Pho Soup with steak, flank, brisket trip & meatball from VN Flavor restaurant Wednesday, Aug. 3, 2025, in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Beef Pho — VN Flavor

Despite its restorative appeal, I often avoid beef pho because of its sometimes overpowering “cow” flavor. VN Flavor’s clear beef bone broth, gently fragrant with warm spices, converts me every time. The Beef Combination includes rice noodles, flank steak, brisket, meatballs and tripe, none of it overly fatty. The banh mi, served on freshly made mini baguettes with barbecue lemongrass pork, pickled carrots and daikon, is also a standout. 90 Raley’s Towne Center, Rohnert Park, 707-843-7585. Also on Toast.

August

Cocoa Trifoglio — Dry Creek Kitchen

From the first bite, I knew this sweet-savory cacao trifoglio — a revival of a Chalkboard-era favorite by chef Shane McAnelly — would make my Best Dishes list. Clover-shaped cocoa pasta forms an earthy base for Liberty duck confit finished with Madeira cream sauce and crunchy hazelnut praline. 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-2807, drycreekkitchen.com

Dry Creek Kitchen pasta
Cocoa Trifoglio on the Dry Creek Kitchen pasta tasting menu from chef Shane McAnelly. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Warm zucchini bread with tomato jam and corn butter from Street Social Thursday, August 14, 2025, in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Warm zucchini bread with tomato jam and corn butter from Street Social Thursday, Aug. 14, 2025, in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Griddled Zucchini Bread with Tomato Jam and Corn Butter — Street Social

Late summer zucchini and tomatoes may overwhelm gardeners, but here they’re transformed into magic. Griddled zucchini bread meets sweet-tart tomato jam and creamy corn butter for a trifecta of peak season flavor. The summer theme continued with watermelon bites dusted with feta, smoky Urfa pepper, and sour black lime; spinach spaetzle with vegetables and fresh ricotta; and a simple dessert of Straus vanilla ice cream topped with peach caramel. One of the most perfect meals I’ve eaten. 29F Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-774-6185, streetsocial.social

September

Fried Chicken — Rosso

This fried chicken with smashed potatoes and a caramelized pancetta glaze remains one of my top 20 meals in Sonoma County. Coated in Arborio rice flour and fried to a crisp, the chicken stays juicy and flavorful, while the potatoes are loaded with butter and cream. We ate every morsel. Someone may have licked the plate. I also loved the tender veal and pork meatballs in a tomato sugo as bright as the summer sun. Welcome back, Rosso53 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-615-7893, rossopizzeria.com

Fried chicken and mashed potatoes at Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, September 30, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Fried chicken and mashed potatoes at Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, Sept. 30, 2025. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
The  salad at Sonoma Pizza Co. in Forestville. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
The $25 salad at Sonoma Pizza Co. in Forestville. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

October

Burrata with Melon and Blackberry, Nasturtium, Pancetta — Sonoma Pizza Co.

I’m still having happy flashbacks to a rainy-day lunch in Forestville, devouring this seasonal stunner solo. I’m fiercely devoted to burrata, mozzarella’s richer sister, and this salad was the ideal foil: curls of ripe honeydew and cantaloupe, late-season blackberries, freshly plucked nasturtium blooms, crushed Marcona almonds, crisp pancetta and a drizzle of honey to tie it all together. 6615 Front St., Forestville, 707-820-1031, sonomapizzaco.com

Pork Chop — Cafe La Haye

Cafe La Haye has served this beloved grilled pork chop for nearly three decades — because it’s just that good. The tender bone-in chop rests on pillow-soft potato gnocchi and pleasantly bitter Swiss chard, but the real star is the tart-sweet mustard seed vinaigrette. 140 E Napa St., Sonoma, 707-935-5994, cafelahaye.com

Cafe La Haye dish
Pork chop with warm mustard seed vinaigrette, roasted mushrooms, potato gnocchi and Swiss chard at Cafe La Haye Wednesday, Oct. 29, 2025, in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Enclos venison tartare dish
Venison tartare set in a smoked oat tart and topped in lacy fried, edible lichen served on a deer antler from multicourse tasting menu at Enclos in Sonoma, Thursday, Jan. 16, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

November

Venison Tartare — Enclos

By now, the iconic image of a deer antler cradling two tiny venison tartare tarts is familiar to anyone watching California’s Michelin scene. Chef Brian Limoges pulls inspiration straight from the Sonoma Valley landscape, even deep-frying lichen into a crunchy garnish. I’ve already praised the 13-course meal and named Enclos my Best Sonoma County Restaurant Opening of 2025, and I stand by it. 139 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-387-1724, enclos-sonoma.com

December

Chicken Parmesan at Catelli's Restaurant in Geyserville. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Chicken Parmesan at Catelli’s Restaurant in Geyserville. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

Chicken Parmesan — Catelli’s

I’ve overlooked this family-run Italian standby for far too long — not because it isn’t excellent, but simply due to a lapse in visits. After two recent meals, Catelli’s is firmly back on my top Italian list. The cozy Geyserville spot excels at Italian American classics, and I have a particular weakness for the buffalo mozzarella-topped chicken Parmesan, served sizzling in a cast-iron skillet with tart Domenica’s sauce. Pure winter comfort. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-3471, mycatellis.com

Sonoma Designers Share Their Decor Tips for a Merry Holiday

Read the Room: Interior designer Stephanie Meyer of AVCO Design loves the way her client uses teal and turquoise to match the color scheme Meyer created in the room. The palette blends seamlessly, yet festively. AVCO Design, 10310 Cherry Ridge Rd, Sebastopol, 707-634-2775, avcodesign.com
Interior designer Stephanie Meyer of AVCO Design loves the way her client uses teal and turquoise to match the color scheme Meyer helped create in the room. (Stephanie Meyer)

The opportunity to decorate for the holidays is everywhere, with some stores displaying their offerings since late summer. But how do you make design choices that deck the halls without burying them? What’s a way to renew the look while creating a sense of nostalgia?

We asked a few Sonoma designers to share their personal tips and tricks for keeping the season visually merry. Read below for more details and click through the above gallery for a peek at the holiday magic. 

Read the Room

Interior designer Stephanie Meyer of AVCO Design loves the way her client uses teal and turquoise to match the color scheme Meyer helped create in the living room. The result is a seamless transition to a festive look. AVCO Design, 10310 Cherry Ridge Road, Sebastopol, 707-634-2775, avcodesign.com 

Keep It Simple

Interior designer Andrea Halkovich of Sonoma Interiors suggested that holiday decor be limited to a focal point or two. In Halkovich’s dining room, she uses only a vibrant arrangement and a seasonal sentiment on the buffet. “Remove anything that pulls your eyes away from the main event,” she said. “You want your eyes to glide around the room and then settle on your focal point.” Sonoma Interiors, 707-322-6719, sonomainteriors.com

In Andrea Halkovich’s dining room, she uses only a vibrant arrangement and a seasonal sentiment on the buffet. (Andrea Halkovich)
In Andrea Halkovich’s dining room, she uses only a vibrant arrangement and a seasonal sentiment on the buffet. (Andrea Halkovich)
Andrea Halkovich found a special spot for a cherished “sugar plum dreams” soap carving ornament, made by her grandmother. Wrapped in a silk egg, the ornament sits safely and prominently in a glass apothecary jar. (Andrea Halkovich)
Andrea Halkovich found a special spot for a cherished “sugar plum dreams” soap carving ornament, made by her grandmother. Wrapped in a silk egg, the ornament sits safely and prominently in a glass apothecary jar. (Andrea Halkovich)

Make it Personal

Halkovich found a special spot for a cherished “sugar plum dreams” soap-carving ornament, made by her grandmother. Wrapped in a silk egg, the ornament sits safely and prominently in a glass apothecary jar.

Farm-to-Vintage

Maison Fiori owner Nicole Buttitta stocks her Healdsburg store with an inspired mix of her personally farmed florals along with vintage wares and select new pieces. The blend of these elements creates a truly enlivened traditional look. She created the popular “Ralph Lauren holiday aesthetic” with baskets, vintage horse medallions, tartan, paper trees and more. Maison Fiori, 122 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 369-208-0350, maisonfiori.com

Maison Fiori owner Nicole Buttitta stocks her Healdsburg store with an inspired mix of her personally-farmed florals along with vintage wares and select new pieces. The blend of these elements creates a truly enlivened traditional look. (Karen Kizer)
Maison Fiori owner Nicole Buttitta stocks her Healdsburg store with an inspired mix of her personally-farmed florals along with vintage wares and select new pieces. (Karen Kizer)
There’s magnolia garland and there’s pine and juniper garland. But Nicole Buttitta twisted the two together so the patina of the magnolia leaves contrasts beautifully with the greens. (Karen Kizer)
Nicole Buttitta twisted magnolia together with pine and juniper garlands so the patina of the magnolia leaves contrasts beautifully with the greens. (Karen Kizer)

With a Twist

There’s magnolia garland and there’s pine and juniper garland. But Buttitta twisted the two together so the patina of the magnolia leaves contrasts beautifully with the greens.

Probiotic Play

Meyer and her children painted their windows with kefir. The designer learned of the practice from Anne S. Olsen on Instagram (@annes.universe). It’s nontoxic, odorless and easy-to-clean, according to Meyer, adding that the technique is popular in Scandinavian countries where they try to let light in through the windows while also adding privacy and festiveness.

“I like that it’s a natural material,” Meyer said, “and it’s easy to have fun with the kids to accomplish this decoration.”

“I like that it’s a natural material,” Stephanie Meyer said about the kefir she and her child used to decorate the windows. “And it’s easy to have fun with the kids to accomplish this decoration.” (Stephanie Meyer)
“I like that it’s a natural material,” Stephanie Meyer said about the kefir she and her child used to decorate the windows. (Stephanie Meyer)
Disco balls have made their way to planters, pillows and more decor in recent years. Here they add some serious shimmer among traditional pine branches and red berries in Storia Home’s decor, by proprietor and interior designer Gina Gutierrez. (Storia Home)
Disco balls add some serious shimmer among traditional pine branches and red berries in Storia Home’s decor, by proprietor and interior designer Gina Gutierrez. (Storia Home)

Holiday Chill

There’s no aesthetic like tranquility, and Bon Ton Studio and Bon Ton Baby (107 Plaza St.) storeowner Erika Dawkins has mastered the art of rich understatement. A pampas grass tree sparkles subtly in her boutique. “I love moving beyond the traditional palette and incorporating natural, textural elements,” she said. Bon Ton Studio, 120 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-591-4116, bonton-studio.com

Season’s Sparkle

Disco balls have made their way to planters, pillows and more decor in recent years. In Storia Home’s decor, by proprietor and interior designer Gina Gutierrez, they add some serious shimmer among traditional pine branches and red berries. Storia Home, 961 Gravenstein Highway S., Suite 130, Sebastopol, 707-200-3681, storiahome.com

Red Eye Barbecue Brings Central Texas-Style Ribs To Hidden Roseland Pop-up

A plate of beef cheek topped with artichoke dill pickle salsa verde sauce including crispy garlic chips, Jalapeño cheddar sausage, roasted potato salad, corn bread, and pickled fruits and veggies, are shown at Bob Costarella’s “Red Eye Barbecue” pop-up, held on Saturdays at Sazon Peruvian Cuisine & Deli on November 15, 2025. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)

Bob Costarella found his calling in a smoke-filled pit in Central Texas. Now he’s bringing that Hill Country sensibility to Sonoma County. But don’t ask for brisket.

A rib man through and through, the Petaluma native has a lock on spice-rubbed, bark-crusted pork and beef ribs that would do a Texan proud. Working out of a Peruvian deli in the heart of Roseland, he’s also got a following for his jalapeño-cheddar sausages, pork belly, peppery chicken and beef cheeks, a tender cut favored by chefs.

Wearing a Stiles Switch BBQ cap, striped apron and gloves, Costarella slices into a glossy hunk of beef cheek — his “baby brisket,” named for its supple texture and deep, meaty richness — and your knees go a little weak. This is red-ringed, smoke-perfumed, unapologetic barbecue that doesn’t require a lick of sauce to justify itself. The sides keep pace.

The catch: It’s available only on Saturday afternoons.

Red Eye Barbecue owner Bob Costarella cuts meats
Bob Costarella, owner and pitmaster, cuts barbecued meat at his “Red Eye Barbecue” pop-up, held on Saturdays at Sazon Peruvian Cuisine & Deli on Nov. 15, 2025. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
Sliced barbecued beef ribs
Bob Costarella, owner and pitmaster, holds barbecued beef ribs at his “Red Eye Barbecue” pop-up, held on Saturdays at Sazon Peruvian Cuisine & Deli on Nov. 15, 2025. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)

The backstory

A longtime cook who spent years searching for his true calling, Costarella worked in cafés, bistros and fine dining before detouring into the cannabis industry, all while continuing to nurture his passion for cooking.

“I was cooking from The French Laundry cookbook for my grower friends,” he said. Around that time, his barbecue obsession took hold, launching a 10-state pilgrimage to the South’s most iconic smoke shacks.

“Most of it was really underwhelming,” he said — until he reached Taylor, Texas, a suburb of Austin, and discovered Central Texas-style barbecue. The genre favors quality meat cooked low and slow over oak; sauce is an afterthought, not a requirement. “It was just so good and so unpretentious,” he said.

He apprenticed under famed pitmaster Lance Kirkpatrick at Stiles Switch BBQ. In the barbecue world, your mentor matters almost as much as the meat on your smoker, with styles and secrets handed down through generations. Kirkpatrick apprenticed under the late Bobby Mueller, a James Beard Award winner whose Louie Mueller Barbecue is often called the “Cathedral of Smoke.” You could say Costarella is, in a sense, carrying on a tradition of Texas barbecue royalty.

During his yearlong training, it took nearly three months before Kirkpatrick stopped readjusting every log Costarella placed on the fire. Under a tin roof — freezing some mornings, sweating through others — Costarella learned to cook by touch and instinct, estimating that he tended roughly 15,000 briskets.

“I came in at 2 or 3 a.m. There was lots of Alex Jones on the radio and lots of coffee,” he said. “The fires stayed lit six days a week and there was always wood to be split, ash to be cleared, and cobbler and beans needing to be made.”

A Cali flair

Back home, Costarella brings a bit of his own California flair to Red Eye with drizzles of dill pickle-artichoke salsa verde over beef cheeks, sprinkles of truffle salt on potato salad and tossing grapes and golden kiwis into to his pickled vegetables. The ribs he leaves alone: crisp bark, fall-off-the-bone tenderness, offered with optional sauce but not needing it.

Barbecue plate with beef cheek, jalapeño cheddar sausage, potato salad, corn bread, and pickled fruits and veggies
A plate of beef cheek topped with artichoke dill pickle salsa verde and crispy garlic chips, jalapeño cheddar sausage, roasted potato salad, corn bread, and pickled fruits and veggies, are shown at Bob Costarella’s “Red Eye Barbecue” pop-up, held on Saturdays at Sazon Peruvian Cuisine & Deli on Nov. 15, 2025. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
Bob Costarella’s “Red Eye Barbecue” pop-up locates his smoker where he serves food in front of Sazon Peruvian Cuisine & Deli on Saturday, November 15, 2025. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
Bob Costarella’s “Red Eye Barbecue” pop-up locates his smoker where he serves food in front of Sazon Peruvian Cuisine & Deli on Saturday, Nov. 15, 2025. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)

Launching the business took persistence — first cooking for friends at home on his G Stacks custom smoker (rigging up a filter for his smoke-sensitive neighbors), then seeking a more permanent space. Sazón Peruvian Cuisine owner Jose Navarro now hosts Red Eye at his adjoining deli from noon to 5 p.m. Saturdays, where the smoker stands out front. Costarella hopes for a dedicated home in 2026.

“Even on a bad day, when nothing goes right, I can still make some pretty damn good barbecue,” he said.

Finding him takes intention, but once you do, you’ll know you’ve hit on some of Sonoma County’s best barbecue.

What you’re here for

Beef and Pork Ribs: Ribs are Costarella’s signature, smoked over applewood from a Martinelli orchard and vineyard — proof that even barbecue can have terroir in Sonoma County. Beef ribs ($38 half rack) are split for easier handling (no dino ribs here) and seasoned simply with salt and pepper. Pork ribs ($26 for a half rack, $ 47 for a whole) get a proprietary Red Eye spice rub. The beef is the standout, but both deliver.

Barbecue beef cheek and jalapeño cheddar sausage
A plate of beef cheek topped with artichoke dill pickle salsa verde and crispy garlic chips, along with a jalapeño cheddar sausage and pickled fruits and veggies, are shown at Bob Costarella’s “Red Eye Barbecue” pop-up, held on Saturdays at Sazon Peruvian Cuisine & Deli on Nov. 15, 2025. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)

Beef Cheek ($25): Costarella’s brisket alternative — “baby brisket” — comes from the cow’s face, prized by chefs for its tenderness and collagen-rich texture and perfect meat-to-fat ratio after a low-and-slow cook. Bathed in beef tallow, it’s incredibly rich; a drizzle of green salsa and a scattering of garlic chips (soaked in milk before frying) cut the intensity. Indulgent.

Half Chicken ($19): Smoky, peppery and improbably moist — not dried into dust, as most barbecued chicken tends to do. Excellent with a touch of sauce.

Roasted Potato Salad ($6): Baby red potatoes roasted in beef tallow, tossed in truffle-infused sour cream and mayo, topped with chives and scallions, and a final dusting of everything bagel seasoning. Insanity. Mind blown.

Slaw ($6): My kind of slaw, with shaved cabbage, a hint of fennel, sweet apple and a creamy Meyer lemon-tinged dressing, topped with Old Bay-roasted almonds. A sweet chaser for the bold barbecue.

Why not brisket?

Costarella loves brisket but says the time commitment — and the waste — are tough to justify.

“I’ve got little kids, and I want to see them,” he said. “I like cooking brisket and I’m not scared of it, but it’s just a time thing.” His beef cheeks more than suffice; I’d put them up against brisket any day.

Red Eye Barbecue owner Bob Costarella
Bob Costarella, owner and pitmaster, stands in front of his smoker at his “Red Eye Barbecue” pop-up, held on Saturdays at Sazon Peruvian Cuisine & Deli on November 15, 2025. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)

Fun fact

Costarella sports a sprawling octopus tattoo across his back and arms, its tentacles gripping a favorite knife and wearing a chef’s hat — the inspiration for his logo. In the kitchen, he said, a cook needs octopus-like dexterity. “There’s hot liquid and knives, and you have to have a cool, intelligent way to manage the chaos.”

On BBQ Jesus

Among the tight-knit circle of barbecue professionals, there’s a long-held belief in “BBQ Jesus,” the idea that redemption can be found in the grueling, primal, ritualistic work of the pit. Smoke and fire become a kind of reckoning. For some, the discipline encourages sobriety or breaks bad habits. For others, it sparks a deeper shift.

Red Eye Barbecue owner Bob Costarella holding pan of barbecued meats alongside sous chef Brendon Welcker
Bob Costarella, owner and pitmaster, holds a pan of barbecued meats next to Brendon Welcker, sous chef, as they prepare to sell food at his “Red Eye Barbecue” pop-up, held on Saturdays at Sazon Peruvian Cuisine & Deli on Nov. 15, 2025. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)

Costarella’s reset came through faith, family and a hard look at the math of restaurant-industry burnout. Sixty-hour weeks, he realized, weren’t a badge of honor but a fast track to misery. Red Eye BBQ is about building a business with health, balance and community in mind — and pulling others into that orbit with him.

Avoiding the lines

The surest path to a plate is to preorder staples by 5 p.m. Thursday at redeyebarbecue.com. Specials change weekly, so you can grab anything else that catches your eye on arrival. Walk-ins are welcome, and everything is available for dine-in or takeout.

Where

Red Eye Barbecue at Sazón Peruvian Cuisine Deli, 1117 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, redeyebarbecue.com

This article was originally published in The Press Democrat.

Modern Bodega Bay Home Enjoys Legendary Ocean Views

Sitting area of the great room. (Brian Roberts / Loud and Clear Commercial Media)
Sitting area of the great room. (Brian Roberts / Loud and Clear Commercial Media)

A 2022 build in Bodega Bay is listed for sale. The modern dwelling is situated to take in the area’s ocean views, including all those legendary sunsets. The four-bedroom, five-bathroom, 3,844-square-foot home is seeking $3,995,000.

Luxury finishes throughout the house — quartz countertops, hidden kitchen appliances, fluted wood cladding and marble bathrooms create a sleek aesthetic. One bedroom has four queen-sized, built-in bunk beds. 

There are views in every room thanks to plentiful windows, including 10-by-24-foot sliders that allow for whole walls to open up to ocean air. Glass handrails on the stairway and outdoor balcony further the aim of unobstructed ocean views.

Sitting area of the great room in modern Bodega Bay home
Sitting area of the great room, including large sliders to take in the coastal view. (Brian Roberts / Loud and Clear Commercial Media)
Sitting area of the great room in modern Bodega Bay home
Stairway with glass handrails. (Brian Roberts / Loud and Clear Commercial Media)
Bedroom. (Brian Roberts / Loud and Clear Commercial Media)
Bedroom with four queen-sized, built-in bunk beds. (Brian Roberts / Loud and Clear Commercial Media)

The home is equipped with a dry sauna, spa, solar power and EV chargers. It is located in the North Bodega Harbour community, which includes a clubhouse, bar, gym, pool, golf course, and tennis, pickleball and bocce courts. 

For more information on this home at 1536 Sea Way in Bodega Bay, contact listing agents Jackie Yarbrough, 707-490-6880, or Mia R Yarbrough, 707-318-9946. eXp Realty of California, Inc., 888-832-7179. zillow.com/homedetails/1536-Sea-Way-Bodega-Bay-CA-94923/96063086_zpid

8 Sonoma County Drinks That Are Light on Spirits, Heavy on Cheer

The Crash Test Dummies cocktail with mango, raspberry, tamarind, lime, sparkling water and a tajin rim from Jackson’s Bar & Oven Friday, September 12, 2025 in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Lose the spirits, keep the cheer this holiday season. Low- and no-alcohol drinks have evolved way past soda water and juice, so no more blaming the spiked company punch for those bad party decisions — they’re all yours!

Eye Opener

Espresso Martini — Stella

The Espresso Martini from Stella restaurant in Kenwood
The Espresso Martini Sabe Soju with “Tiramisu” syrup, espresso and pizzelle from Stella restaurant Tuesday, Sept. 10, 2025, in Kenwood. (John Burgess / Press Democrat)

Flavored wine, rather than coffee liqueur and vodka, gives this classic Italian cocktail a lower booze factor, but the shot of espresso will keep you buzzing for hours. Creamy and dreamy. 9049 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood. 707-801-8043, stellakenwood.com

Zen and Tonic

Letizia’s Orchard Shrub — Starling

The fruits of a 2-acre orchard, herbs, chia seeds, and raw cider vinegar go into this thoughtful, alcohol-free shrub. Calm and balanced. 19380 Highway 12, Sonoma. 707-938-7442, starlingsonoma.com

Letizia's Orchard Shrub with fruit compote, raw cider vinegar, organic cranberry, herbs and soda from Starling Bar Sonoma Tuesday, September 10, 2025, in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Letizia’s Orchard Shrub with fruit compote, raw cider vinegar, organic cranberry, herbs and soda from Starling Bar Tuesday, Sept. 10, 2025, in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The Garden Gnome nonalcoholic drink from Little Saint in Healdsburg
The Garden Gnome mocktail made with nonalcoholic gin, tonic, lime and cucumbers from Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative)
Sprite’s Sprite

Garden Gnome — Little Saint

It takes a little magic to capture the zesty botanicals of gin without the alcohol. Dhos Gin Free plus lime, tonic, and crisp Little Saint Farm cucumbers make this refresher extra delicious. Gnome joke! 25 North St., Healdsburg. 707-433-8207, littlesainthealdsburg.com

Pepper in Your Stepper

Dr. Feel Good — Lo & Behold

Fernet-Branca, Montenegro, apricot, crème de banane, and allspice somehow mimic the secret blend of 23 flavors in the original Dr Pepper. Fizzy low-alcohol fun for the kid in you (but not the kids). 214 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. 707-756-5021, loandbeholdca.com

The Dr. Feel Good cocktail from Lo & Behold in Healdsburg
The Dr. Feel Good with Fernet Branca, Montenegro, apricot, creme de banane, allspice and seltzer from Lo & Behold Friday, Sept. 12, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The Crash Test Dummies cocktail from Jackson’s Bar & Oven in Santa Rosa
The Crash Test Dummies cocktail with mango, raspberry, tamarind, lime, sparkling water and a Tajin rim from Jackson’s Bar & Oven Friday, Sept. 12, 2025, in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Pucker Punch

Crash Test Dummies — Jackson’s Bar & Oven

Once there was this drink that didn’t have spirits in any of its makeup. But the fruit-packed sour sparkler rimmed with spicy-hot Tajin had a spirit all its own. I couldn’t quite explain it. Mmm mmm mmm. 135 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 707-545-6900, jacksonsbarandoven.com

Ho Ho Sober

Designated Sledder — Flamingo Resort & Spa

Stay on Santa’s nice list with this tropical mocktail that’s got all of the holiday joy and none of the morning-after regrets. Coconut cream, lime, and pineapple are tempered by earthy, vanilla-esque pandan syrup. Elf approved. 2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 707-545-8530, flamingoresort.com

The Designated Sledder nonalcoholic drink from Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa
The Designated Sledder mocktail made with coconut cream, lime, pineapple and pandan syrup from Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa. (Randy Schmidt)
Michenada nonalcoholic drink from Bijou in Petaluma.
The Michenada cocktail with juiced cucumber, tomatoes, bell pepper, citrus and NA Beer Monday, Sept. 23, 2025, in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Drink Your Veggies

Michenada — Bijou

The beer-based, south-of-the-border to the Bloody Mary, the michelada is salad in a glass — at least that’s how to justify a glass (or four). This version, with agave, cucumber, tomato, bell pepper, and nonalcoholic beer (hence the name, michenada) gives all the sass with a designated driver pass. 190 Kentucky St., Petaluma. 707-753-9155, restaurantbijou.com

The "Thai and Dry" nonalcoholic drink from Fern Bar in Sebastopol.
The “Thai and Dry” mocktail is the Fern Bar’s alcohol-free version of its Long Thailand Ice Tea. (Fern Bar)
Tropical Dreamsicle

Thai and Dry — Fern Bar

Lovelier than a southeast Asian sunset, this glowing, alcohol-free cocktail starts with floral Thai tea steeped in coconut water. Pineapple, orange, and vanilla with sweet coconut foam evoke happy memories of a summer Creamsicle — with a Bangkok twist. 6780 Depot St., Suite 120, Sebastopol. 707-861-9603, fernbar.com

Still thirsty? Find more local bars and restaurants serving great nonalcoholic drinks here.

New Rabbi for Sonoma County’s Largest Synagogue Leads With Openness, Hope

Rabbi Jeremy Morrison stands with his guitar in front of his congregation during Shabbat at Congregation Shomrei Torah on August 15, 2025. (Abraham Fuentes/For The Press Democrat)

Rabbi Jeremy Morrison, who assumed the role of senior rabbi at Congregation Shomrei Torah this past summer, knows he is stepping into a pivotal position.

The Santa Rosa synagogue, the largest in Sonoma County, was founded 50 years ago and is home to 500 member families. It has long been recognized for its commitment to Reform Judaism and community service.

Morrison, a native of the Boston suburb of Brookline, joins the congregation after serving as senior rabbi at Congregation Beth Am in Los Altos Hills and as executive director of Lehrhaus Judaica, a center for adult Jewish learning in Berkeley.

He succeeds Rabbi George Gittleman, who led Shomrei Torah for nearly 30 years while becoming a pillar of the North Bay community before his retirement last year.

“(He) created a warm and diverse congregation,” says Morrison of his predecessor. “I’m responsible for creating its future.”

Rabbi Jeremy Morrison plays his guitar in front of his congregation during Shabbat at Congregation Shomrei Torah on August 15, 2025. (Abraham Fuentes/For The Press Democrat)
Rabbi Jeremy Morrison plays his guitar in front of his congregation during Shabbat at Congregation Shomrei Torah. Photo taken on Aug. 15, 2025. (Abraham Fuentes/For The Press Democrat)
Rabbi Jeremy Morrison and Erica Wisner, Congregation Shomrei Torah’s Erev Cantor, sing during Shabbat at Congregation Shomrei Torah on August 15, 2025. (Abraham Fuentes/For The Press Democrat)
Rabbi Jeremy Morrison and Erica Wisner, Congregation Shomrei Torah’s Erev Cantor, sing during Shabbat at Congregation Shomrei Torah. Photo taken on Aug. 15, 2025. (Abraham Fuentes/For The Press Democrat)

Shomrei Torah is part of the Reform movement, one of the four major branches of Judaism, along with Orthodox, Conservative, and Reconstructionist. The movement is characterized by its openness to change and a commitment to social justice and inclusivity while emphasizing individual autonomy.

“I grew up in the Reform movement,” says Morrison, 54. “I’m a child of the ’70s and ’80s. There are many more paths to creating Jewish community than before.”

But with those paths come new challenges, which he believes extend beyond the walls of any synagogue.

“We’re living in such a polarized moment in our history,” he says. “We need to create a space where we can talk through our differences without screaming at each other. I think we can find a way to talk to each other.”

He emphasizes social justice as central to the synagogue’s mission, including issues such as health care and immigrant welfare.

Rabbi Jeremy Morrison distributes a loaf of challah to his congregation during Shabbat at Congregation Shomrei Torah on August 15, 2025. (Abraham Fuentes/For The Press Democrat)
Rabbi Jeremy Morrison distributes a loaf of challah to his congregation during Shabbat at Congregation Shomrei Torah. Photo taken on Aug. 15, 2025. (Abraham Fuentes/For The Press Democrat)

Morrison also acknowledges the deep division within and beyond the Jewish community over Israel’s war in Gaza and the broader conflict with Hamas and other militant groups.

Antisemitism, too, remains a pressing concern.

“I would never have thought we’d have to deal with antisemitism now, but it has become such a reality for Jews,” Morrison says.

Still, he stresses that he encourages his congregation to be proud and joyful in their Jewish identity, reminding them that “proudly living as a religious minority in a majority culture” is embedded in the tradition of Hanukkah, which begins on Dec. 14.

“Our task,” says Morrison, “is not to shrink back into fear, but to stand tall in hope.”

Congregation Shomrei Torah, 2600 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa, 707-578-5519, cstsr.org

This article was originally published in The Press Democrat. Read the full article here.

Taste Holiday Foods from Around the World at Sonoma County Restaurants and Bakeries

Locally made panettone, left to right, Nightingale Bakery Chocolate Cranberry, Costeaux French Bakery and Goguette Bread Au Beurre Wednesday December 13, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Every family has a holiday food tradition, whether it’s lasagna while watching “A Charlie Brown Christmas” or hunting high and low for the most authentic Hungarian poppy seed roll. The smells and flavors of grandma’s house linger in our memories, and more than any other time of year, we crave a little taste of our heritage.

Here are some of our favorite holiday dishes from around the world that you can find here in Sonoma County — from potstickers to pavlova — to make the Yuletide that much more delicious.

England — Holiday Tea

Holiday Tea at Hotel Healdsburg will be held on Saturdays and Sundays from Dec. 6-21 and will feature holiday fare, including housemade pastries and finger sandwiches from Dry Creek Kitchen. The tea is sourced from Russian River Tea Company. Tea service with food is $85 for adults, and tea service with food and wine or cocktails is $98. Food, tea, cider and hot chocolate for children 12 and under is $49. 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-0330, drycreekkitchen.com

Muir’s Tea Room in Sebastopol will host a Victorian Wintertide High Tea from Dec. 6-31. The plant-based tea service ($78 per person) includes an endless pot of tea accompanied by scones, finger sandwiches and other baked goods (plus a matching gluten-free menu; $83 per person). There’s also a tea service menu for children ($40 per child), with tea, lemonade, or sparkling apple cider, along with savory and dessert items. Don’t forget to pick up special holiday tea blends, seasonal bakery items and other holiday gifts for that special tea fanatic in your life. 330 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-634-6143, muirstearoomandcafe.com

Sweet raisin tamales at Tamales Mana in Santa Rosa. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Sweet raisin tamales at Tamales Mana in Santa Rosa. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

Mexico — Tamales

A favorite holiday tradition in Mexico, these steamed corn cakes are popular year-round, but at the holidays, they are even more special. Filled with everything from chicken, pork and cheese to beans, pineapple and even chocolate, they’re perfect for a party of any size. Our favorites are at Tamales Mana in Santa Rosa. For a twist on the usually savory snack, we love tamales with sweet mango salsa at Don Julio’s in Rohnert Park. Tamales Mana, 1110 Petaluma Hill Road, Santa Rosa, 707-595-5742, tamalesmana.comDon Julio’s, 217 Southwest Blvd., Rohnert Park, 707-242-3160, donjulioslatingrill.com

Italy — Panettone

Filled with candied fruit, this Italian sweet bread was one of the many reasons to make a trip to the much-missed Traverso’s Deli — but the holiday treat can be found at other favorite local bakeries. Petaluma’s Della Fattoria offers two versions: a cranberry-and-chocolate panettone and a candied-citrus-and-golden-raisin panettone. For a worthy splurge, try the $96 panettone at the new Pastascuitta in Geyserville. The sweet bread from Bay Area baker Roy Shvartzapel is offered in a variety of intriguing flavors, including tiramisu, pistachio-cherry, and lemon-poppy mascarpone. Della Fattoria, 143 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-763-0161, dellafattoria.com; Pastascuitta, 21023 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, Instagram.com/pastasciutta707

Find more panettone at Goguette Bread and Marla Bakery in Santa Rosa, Nightingale Breads in Forestville, Costeaux French Bakery in Healdsburg and Basque Boulangerie in Sonoma.

Locally made panettone, left to right, Nightingale Bakery Chocolate Cranberry, Costeaux French Bakery and Goguette Bread Au Beurre Wednesday December 13, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Locally made panettone, left to right: Nightingale Bakery Chocolate Cranberry, Costeaux French Bakery and Goguette Bread Au Beurre, Wednesday, Dec. 13, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Find rare Bulgarian wines in elaborate bottles at The European Food Store Thursday, Oct. 23, 2025, in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Find rare Bulgarian wines in elaborate bottles at The European Food Store Thursday, Oct. 23, 2025, in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Germany and Eastern Europe Cookies, Mulled Wine and More

Pfeffernüsse cookies and “glüewhein” (a spiced mulled wine) are among the most cherished holiday traditions. Santa Rosa’s European Food Store has holiday candies, cookies (including pfeffernüsse) and boot-stuffers from Germany and Eastern Europe. Also find other favorites like poppy seed roulade, caviar, smoked fish and imported chocolates. 2790 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-527-0319, alleuropeanfood.com

Sweden  Julbord

Stockhome in Petaluma is your go-to spot for all things Swedish. At 5 p.m. on Dec. 7, 14 and 21, the restaurant will serve an authentic julbord a family-friendly Swedish meal featuring holiday specialties. The feast includes gravlax and smoked salmon, cheese and charcuterie platters, braised cabbage, fried Brussels sprouts, potato au gratin, Swedish meatballs and Christmas ham, plus house glögg (Swedish spiced wine). $90 for adults, $50 for children ages 5 to 12 and free for children 4 and under. There will be a julbord takeout option with pickup times from noon to 4 p.m. on Dec. 23. The to-go julbord serves two people and costs $180. To learn more about Stockhome’s annual julbord this year, click here220 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8511, stockhomerestaurant.com

A holiday julbord featuring beet-cured gravlax, cold and hot smoked salmon, charcuterie, elk pate, pig head terrine, and deviled eggs at Stockhome in Petaluma Sunday, Dec. 14, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
A holiday julbord featuring beet cured gravlax, cold and hot smoked salmon, charcuterie, elk pate, pig head terrine, anddeviled eggs at Stockhome in Petaluma Sunday, Dec. 14, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Bûche Glacée de Noël at Goguette Bread in Santa Rosa on Friday, December 12, 2025. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Bûche Glacée de Noël at Goguette Bread in Santa Rosa on Friday, Dec. 12, 2025. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Bûche de Noël is a popular holiday dessert in France
Bûche de Noël at Sarmentine in Santa Rosa. (Erik Castro / for Sonoma Magazine)

France — Bûche de Noël

Eating a log might not sound so delicious, but when it’s filled with buttercream and frosted with chocolate? That’s another story. The tradition stems from ancient pagan rites of burning logs to usher in spring. We like the elaborate versions at Sarmentine Artisan Boulanger in Santa Rosa, Petaluma and Sebastopol; Goguette Bread in Santa Rosa; Les Pascals in Glen Ellen and Patisserie Angelica in Sebastopol

New Zealand  Pavlova

It’s summer down under during the holidays, just in time for fresh strawberries, raspberries and blueberries that make this light dessert such a holiday favorite. While named after the Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova, the dessert originated in Australia or New Zealand in the early 20th century and remains popular in both countries. Made with a meringue base, whipped cream and berries, the best spot to find it is BurtoNZ Bakery in Windsor, the only New Zealand-style bakery in the region. 9076 Brooks Road S., Windsor, 707-687-5455, burtonzbakery.com

Sarmentine also offers two versions of the meringue-based dessert: a fruit pavlova and a tiramisu pavlova with a cocoa meringue shell.

New Zealand-style Pavlova from BurtoNZ Bakery in Windsor. (Photo by Eileen Roche. Styling by Alysia Andriola / for Sonoma Magazine)
New Zealand-style Pavlova from BurtoNZ Bakery in Windsor. (Photo by Eileen Roche. Styling by Alysia Andriola / for Sonoma Magazine)

Puerto Rico — Sweet Rice Pudding

Coconut, raisins, spices and cloves make this a special rice pudding (arroz con dulce) that’s traditional on the island. You can find it at El Coqui Puerto Rican Cuisine in Santa Rosa. 400 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. 707-542-8868, elcoqui2eat.com

Portugal — Bacalhau

Bacalhau, a dried and salted cod, is a typical Portuguese dish often made for a traditional Christmas Eve dinner. Sonoma’s premier Portuguese restaurant, Tasca Tasca, offers its take on the dish as salt cod cakes. For a comforting holiday dessert, try the cinnamon rice pudding. 122 West Napa St., Sonoma, 707-996-8272, tascatasca.com

Ethiopia  Doro We’t

This spicy chicken stew takes days to prepare, with a mix of African peppers and spices. Long-simmered with garlic and onion, hard-boiled eggs are added to soak up flavor, and it’s typically served with fermented injera bread. Though Ethiopian Christmas is celebrated on Jan. 7, you can find d’oro we’t any day of the year at Abyssinia in Santa Rosa. 913 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-568-6455, my-abyssinia.com

Doro we't, consisting of chicken and hard-boiled egg, and tikel gomen, from Abyssinia restaurant in Santa Rosa. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Doro we’t, consisting of chicken and a hard-boiled egg, served with injera bread, from Abyssinia restaurant in Santa Rosa. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

Chinese for Christmas?

Many Jewish people have a favorite holiday tradition of eating Chinese food — often from the only restaurants open on Christmas. It’s also a great way to avoid the kitchen after a day of exhausting present opening. Lately, more and more Chinese restaurants have been closing on Dec. 25, making this jolly night out harder to come by. Royal China in northwest Santa Rosa will be open from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. on both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. City Chopsticks in Petaluma has also been reliably open on Christmas. Royal China, 3080 Marlow Road, Santa Rosa, 707-545-2911, royalchinasantarosa.com; City Chopsticks, 127 N. McDowell Blvd. Petaluma, 707-763-3083, citychopsticksca.com

Thailand — Mango Sticky Rice

A traditional South Asian dessert made with fresh mango, glutinous rice and coconut milk, mango sticky rice is often enjoyed on Songkran, the Thai New Year’s holiday in April. Still, it is popular during other holidays as well. Thai House Noodle Soup in Santa Rosa and Thai BBQ House in Petaluma both serve elegantly plated mango sticky rice, a refreshing, delicious ending to any meal. Thai House Noodle Soup, 1899 Mendocino Ave. Suite B., Santa Rosa, 707-978-3485, thaihousenoodles.com; Thai BBQ House, 1390 N. McDowell Blvd., Suite A, Petaluma, 707-665-5748, thaibbqhouse.com

Mango Sticky Rice at Thai House Noodle Soup in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Mango Sticky Rice at Thai House Noodle Soup in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Black Sticky Rice with Mango from Thai BBQ House (formerly Osha Thai BBQ) in Petaluma on Friday, January 16, 2022. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Black Sticky Rice with Mango from Thai BBQ House (formerly Osha Thai BBQ) in Petaluma on Friday, Jan. 16, 2022. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Turkey — Baklava

While baklava is a popular dessert to mark the end of Ramadan, this sweet, delicate treat of thin phyllo pastry layered with a honeyed nut mixture can be enjoyed any day of the year. Along with other Turkish holiday delights like dolmas and borek, Real Döner in Petaluma serves heavenly pistachio baklava with the right touch of sweet and crunchy. 307 F St., Petaluma, 707-765-9555, realdoner.net

India — Kheer

A simple yet wholesome dessert, traditional Indian kheer is a sweet rice pudding commonly found at festivals and on holidays in India. Himalayan Restaurant in Windsor offers an old-fashioned and lightly spiced Himalayan-style kheer, and Kafal Restaurant in Santa Rosa has a sweet, refreshing kheer flavored with cardamom. Himalayan, 810 McClelland Drive, Windsor, 707-838-6746, himalayanrestaurantwindsor.com; Kafal Restaurant, 535 Ross St., Santa Rosa, 707-595-3311, kafalca.com

Japan  Kentucky Fried Chicken

Though Christmas isn’t widely celebrated in Japan, KFC is a holiday tradition. Since the 1970s, the “Party Barrel” has attracted lines of eager eaters after a marketing campaign made Kurisumasu ni wa Kentakkii (Christmas with Kentucky) a thing. To follow suit, take your pick among Sonoma County’s five KFC locations.

Where to Celebrate Hanukkah in Sonoma County

Hanukkah celebration attendees dance in a circle in Healdsburg on Thursday, December 14, 2023. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Hanukkah, the eight-day Jewish “Festival of Lights,” starts at nightfall Dec. 14 this year. Sonoma County is taking part in the festivities with dinners, drinks, public menorah lightings and more.

Traditionally, families celebrate the Jewish holiday (also called Chanukah) over eight nights, lighting a candle on the menorah with a special blessing and enjoying foods fried in oil, such as latkes and sufganiyot (deep-fried jelly- or jam-filled doughnuts). For kids (and adults), playing the dreidel is a great way to win (or lose) gelt (chocolate “coins” wrapped in gold foil).

Here’s where to celebrate Hanukkah in Sonoma style.

Hanukkah Events

Chabad Jewish Center of Petaluma

The Chabad Jewish Center of Petaluma will host several events on select days throughout December for Hanukkah this year. Holiday supplies will be available at the center’s Chanukah Shoppe, featuring staples like candles, menorahs, dreidels and gelt, as well as toys and decorations. Call for hours and product information.

The center will present its 11th annual Chanukah Celebration from 4-6 p.m., Dec. 14, at the Petaluma Fairgrounds (175 Fairgrounds Drive). The event will include a grand menorah lighting, live DJ music, a raffle, an LED and fire performance, holiday crafts and games, latkes and jelly doughnuts, the world’s biggest dreidel and the highly anticipated hot air balloon gelt drop. Free with RSVP; donations welcomed.

Join the center for its Chanukah Shabbat Dinner, starting at 5 p.m., Dec. 19. The evening includes lighting the menorah and traditional Chanukah and Shabbat foods. Tickets are $25 for adults and $15 for children.

Rabbi Dovid Bush, of Chabad Jewish Center, lights the first candle of the Grand Menorah, at the 5th Annual Chanukah at the River celebration presented by Chabad Jewish Center on Sunday, December 22, 2019, in Petaluma, California. (Photo by Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
Rabbi Dovid Bush, of Chabad Jewish Center, lights the first candle of the Grand Menorah, at the 5th Annual Chanukah at the River celebration presented by Chabad Jewish Center on Sunday, Dec. 22, 2019, in Petaluma. (Darryl Bush / for The Press Democrat)

On the last night of Hanukkah, join the center in lighting the last candle on the menorah during its Chanukah on Ice event, from 4-6 p.m., Dec. 21, at the Petaluma Fairgrounds. Guests can enjoy latkes and doughnuts, as well as ice skating at the city’s outdoor ice rink, Luma Ice. Tickets are $20 for adults, $15 for children and seniors, and free for non-skaters and children 3 and under. Learn more and purchase tickets through the Luma Ice website.

Reserve tickets for other Chabad Jewish Center events on the center’s website. Chabad Jewish Center of Petaluma, 205 Keller St., Petaluma, 707-559-8585, jewishpetaluma.com

Congregation Ner Shalom

Cotati’s Ner Shalom will host a Hanukkah party from 4-7 p.m. Dec. 14. The evening starts with family games and activities, followed by latkes and a potluck dinner. Guests can bring their own menorah and light it at the event. Tickets are $10 for adults, $5 for children ages 6 to 12, and free for children 5 and under. Purchase tickets online.

Ner Shalom will also host a Hanukkah celebration for teens and adults with disabilities and their families in a disability-friendly environment. The approximately 2-hour celebration will be held at 11:30 a.m. Dec. 21 at the congregation’s outdoor courtyard (weather permitting). Register online.

85 La Plaza, Cotati, 707-664-8622, nershalom.org

Joseph Weingarten Chabad Jewish Center

The Santa Rosa Jewish Center will celebrate Hanukkah early with its “Miracle of Chocolate” event, in collaboration with the Sonoma County Jewish Women’s Circle, starting at 7 p.m., Dec. 4, at Chabad. Guests can create custom chocolates to gift for the holiday and take home curated gift boxes. $25 per person. Reserve online. The center will lead a menorah-making workshop starting at 11 a.m. Dec. 7 at The Home Depot in Santa Rosa (100 Bicentennial Way). Guests of all ages can enjoy Hanukkah treats while building their own menorah. The event is free with an RSVP. The center will also host a Hanukkah festival starting at 4 p.m. Dec. 14 at Montgomery Village. There will be a live band, latkes, gelt and dreidels.

2461 Summerfield Road, Santa Rosa, 707-577-0277, jewishsonoma.com

Congregation Shomrei Torah in Santa Rosa

The congregation will host its annual Shabbat Hanukkah from 6-8 p.m. Dec. 19. Its choir, Shomrei Shira, will provide music and there will also be latkes and doughnuts. Guests are welcome to bring their own menorahs to light at the beginning of the service. The event is free but registration is required. Reserve online.

2600 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa, 707-578-5519, cstsr.org

Congregation Beth Ami of Santa Rosa

Beth Ami will host two Hanukkah events this year: a Tot Shabbat from 10:30 a.m. to noon, Dec. 20, at the congregation’s lounge; and a Hanukkah party and latke dinner from 4:30-7 p.m., Dec. 21. The Tot Shabbat will include music, storytelling, crafts and holiday treats.

The community latke night begins with card and board games followed by a short service with Rabbi Ron Koas, candlelightings, Hanukkah songs and then dinner. The event is free but donations are accepted. RSVP by Dec. 18 to the Beth Ami office, or call 707-360-3000 or email the office (office@BethAmiSR.org) to reserve a spot.

4676 Mayette Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-360-3000, bethamisr.org

Sonoma Valley Chabad Jewish Center

The Chabad Jewish Center of Sonoma Valley will host a family Hanukkah party starting at 10:30 a.m., Dec. 8, at Nanigins children’s store (529 Broadway). There will be holiday songs and stories, treats, and dreidel-making. RSVP online or text Chaya Wenger at 707-909-0530. The center will also host a musical Hanukkah celebration starting at 5 p.m., Dec. 15, at the Sonoma Marketplace gazebo near Whole Foods (201 W. Napa St.). There will be live music, latkes and doughnuts, children’s crafts, a fire show and the lighting of an 8-foot glowing menorah. Admission is free.

858 Third St. W., Sonoma, 929-253-0820, svjewishcenter.com

Raven Performing Arts Theater

Healdsburg’s Raven Theater will welcome The Klezmatics, a Grammy-winning klezmer band, performing from 7:30-9:30 p.m., Dec. 9, at the theater. The contemporary performance of traditional Jewish music is part of the band’s “Happy Joyous Hanukkah Tour.” General admission is $30 and center seats are $50, plus fees. Purchase tickets online.

115 North St., Healdsburg, 707-433-6335, raventheater.org

Hanukkah Food Specials

Strawberry jelly filled donut or sufganiyot for Hanukkah at Grossman's Noshery and Bar in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Strawberry jelly-filled donut or sufganiyot for Hanukkah at Grossman’s Noshery and Bar in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

Grossman’s Noshery & Bar

The Jewish deli and restaurant in Railroad Square will have Hanukkah offerings available for pickup from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. between Dec. 14 and Dec. 22. Menu items include potato leek latkes with applesauce and sour cream, chopped liver and onions, matzoh ball soup, pomegranate molasses roasted carrots, braised brisket, smoked and pickled fish board, sabich platter and smoked meat board. Baked goods include sufganiyot filled with strawberry jam, rugelach (chocolate or cinnamon) and braided challah loaf. The menu will be served at the restaurant from Dec. 14-27. Hanukkah candles and chocolate coins will also be available.

308 1/2 Wilson St., Santa Rosa, 707-595-7707, grossmanssr.com

Marla Bakery

Marla will have sufganiyot available for pickup Dec. 13, 14, 19-21 at the downtown Santa Rosa bakery, as well as on Dec. 14 and Dec. 21 at Clement Street Farmers Market and Sebastopol Farmers Market. Sufganiyots are filled with a choice of Meyer lemon cream or dulce de leche cream. $18 per box. Order online for pickup.

208 Davis St., Santa Rosa, 707-852-4098, marlabakery.com

Zoftig Eatery

Zoftig is offering housemade Hanukkah latkes for pickup on Dec. 12, 15 and 16. Latke orders include applesauce and sour cream. Call or place an order online.

57 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-521-9554, zoftigeatery.com

Geyserville’s Pastasciutta Sells Fresh Pasta, Sauces and Italian Food Imports

Pastasciutta pasta
Packed dry pasta made in house at Pastasciutta in Geyserville. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

Tucked between Diavola and the Geyserville Gun Club, Pastasciutta is the latest venture from restaurateurs Dino Bugica and his wife, Sonja. While it’s Dino’s mustachioed face locals recognize, the charming bottega is very much Sonja’s creation.

Opened in late November, the Geyserville shop offers a carefully curated selection of handmade pasta, Italian meats, fresh focaccia and roasted chicken, with shelves stocked with sauces, pickles, pastes, international liqueurs, dried pasta and wines from near and far.

The space is packed to the rafters — you might need provisions while shopping for provisions.

Pastasciutta
A curated wall of imported (and homemade) dips, sauces, wine and other merchandise at Pastasciutta in Geyserville. The shop sells a handful of Japanese ingredients as well, based on the Asian-inspired menu at Geyserville Gun Club. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

The hot case beckons with gargantuan meatballs in tomato ragù, roasted winter vegetables and racks of Tuscan ribs, while several cold cases feature fresh pasta, imported meats and cheeses, and tidy stacks of tiramisu. Made-to-order cannolis are a particular draw, though the fresh anchovies may be an acquired taste for some.

“I haven’t spoken this much Italian in a long time,” Dino Bugica remarked, noting the older Italian men who come for their niche cuts of headcheese and salumi. Authenticity isn’t lacking here.

Sonja, who hails from the Ligurian coast of Italy, has infused the menu with flavors that reflect her roots: pickled puntarelle (chicory shoots), rosemary-topped focaccia, cheese-and-herb ravioli, green pesto lasagna and a slow-simmered tomato sauce.

Onion focaccia at Pastasciutta in Geyserville. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Onion focaccia at Pastasciutta in Geyserville. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Pastasciutta owners Dino and Sonja Bugica
Owners Dino and Sonja Bugica at Pastasciutta in Geyserville. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

“I wanted to bring a piece of Italy here,” she said, pointing to the breaded cotoletta used in her sandwiches. After years of teaching pasta-making, the shop finally gives her a place to showcase her culinary skills.

For the holidays, Pastasciutta offers a $96 panettone from Bay Area baker Roy Shvartzapel — the same one Ruth Reichl once called “the fruitcake of your holiday dreams.” The website calls the obsessively perfected Italian holiday bread his personal Mt. Everest of baking.

Naturally, I had to pick it up, admire it and then gently set it back down. I spent 20 minutes trying to justify the purchase, even enlisting Sonja and Dino in my internal debate. “You’ll be a holiday party hero if you bring this,” Dino suggested.

Ultimately, I left without the cake (though I did pick up ravioli, meatballs and tiramisu). Still, I refuse to enter 2026 without knowing if a fruitcake can really be that good. Perhaps Santa will leave one in my stocking.

Open noon to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. 21023 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, Instagram.com/pastasciutta707

Embroidery Artist Robert Mahar Crafts With Vintage Vibes

A student’s practice stitches lay on top of a cloth Sonoma County map that will be used for embroidery at Robert Mahar’s craft retreat at Westerbeke Ranch in Sonoma on Tuesday, September 16, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

It was a serendipitous encounter with an antique French anatomical textbook that set Robert Mahar on the path to becoming a renowned embroidery artist and craftsperson. As he leafed through the book, the illustrations, rich in detail and saturated with color, captivated him. Despite their somewhat unsettling nature, they ignited his imagination.

“You transfer that to fabric, and you start stitching on top of it, it becomes this really beautiful, layered process,” Mahar explains. “That somehow just resonated with me.”

This idea came at a time when companies specializing in print-on-demand fabrics were gaining momentum. Mahar began stitching embellishments on his custom fabric and shared the results online.

“I got such amazingly positive feedback and reinforcement; it just started those wheels turning,” he says. “That’s what I’ve become most well-known for.”

Not long ago, Mahar notes, embroidery choices were limited to patterns that appealed mostly to women of a certain age and maybe their granddaughters whom they passed the craft onto. “Unless you wanted to do baskets of kittens, you didn’t have a lot of motif options,” he quips.

One of Robert Mahar's fabric designs created using vintage botanical and anatomical prints. (Chad Surmick / Sonoma Magazine)
One of Robert Mahar’s fabric designs created using vintage botanical and anatomical prints. (Chad Surmick / Sonoma Magazine)

Mahar found his niche developing his own patterns by exploring vintage paper ephemera, such as botanical prints, maps, and postcards. Drawing on his background in graphic design, he combines those images — anatomical illustrations with botanical prints, for example — to create collaged, free-form embroidery samplers. One standout piece depicts blackberry brambles emerging from the ventricles of a heart; another, called “Crocus Cranium,” features a skull with a crocus growing through it. In Mahar’s hands, these unexpected pairings seem destined to be together. “What gets me excited is taking a heritage craft, like embroidery, and finding a new and modern way to interpret it or somehow make it my own,” he says.

With his naturally expressive and humorous demeanor, video quickly became an ideal medium for Mahar and he began doing embroidery and other craft tutorials online. His work soon caught the attention of the producers of NBC’s “Making it,” a reality craft competition series hosted by Amy Poehler and Nick Offerman. Mahar competed on the show’s first season in 2018, helped test run challenges in the second, and then became an associate producer for its third and final season.

Amid his growing success, Mahar and his husband, George, joined the pandemic-era migration from big cities to quieter locales, trading the glam and grit of Los Angeles — where he had spent the previous three decades — for a more relaxed life in Sonoma.

“It’s been this wonderful about-face,” says Mahar, who grew up in Grand Rapids, Michigan, and always considered himself a “city mouse.” “The fact that I get to have a yard, and a dog, and walk around a field every day is one of the happiest parts of my day.”

One of embroidery artist Robert Mahar's fabric designs
One of Robert Mahar’s fabric designs created using vintage botanical and anatomical prints. (Chad Surmick / Sonoma Magazine)
Embroidery artist Robert Mahar with his senior rescue dog
Embroidery artist Robert Mahar with his senior rescue dog, Bunny, a German wire-haired pointer, in his Wine Country home studio. (Chad Surmick / Sonoma Magazine)

Another perk of life in Wine Country is having space for a home studio, where his senior rescue dog, Bunny — a German wire-haired pointer — always stays close. The room is minimalist, with white walls and ample space for creative projects, offering a stark contrast to Mahar’s colorful, vintage aesthetic, a passion that developed during regular weekend trips to swap meets and flea markets with his dad while he was growing up.

Craft supplies, embroidery hoops, irons, notions of all sorts, and a rainbow of embroidery floss are tucked away neatly in drawers and cubbies. Projects in various stages of completion are pinned to felt boards on the wall above his sewing machine, adding pops of color to the room.

There’s his blackberry heart sampler, with “George” stitched in cursive. He shows off a botanical piece, a teacup magnolia, where instead of outlining the flower, he took a more abstract approach, using dainty pink stitches the size of pinheads to represent the flower’s scent.

“Envisioning that as aroma floating off of the petals, that was kind of fun,” he says. “It’s all French knots. I freaking love French knots. I don’t know what it is.”

Robert Mahar design
Robert Mahar uses French knots to represent a rose’s aroma on a vintage botanical fabric. (Chad Surmick / Sonoma Magazine)
Two shelves of vintage books, including volumes on needlecraft, flank either side of Robert Mahar's studio door. (Chad Surmick / Sonoma Magazine)
Vintage books, including volumes on needlecraft, flank either side of Robert Mahar’s studio door. (Chad Surmick / Sonoma Magazine)

Two shelves of vintage books flank either side of the studio door — volumes on needlecraft, cooking, and even cowboys exist both for decor, and perhaps inspiration, including a particularly fetching 1950s-era Better Homes & Gardens Handyman’s Book.

“Have I ever used it? No. But do I love the aesthetics of it? 100%,” he says, laughing.

Since moving to Sonoma, Mahar has taught fiber arts classes at the Sonoma Community Center and through Crafted at Appellation. In mid-September, he hosted “Well Crafted Sonoma,” a five-day craft retreat at the secluded Westerbeke Ranch in the foothills of Sonoma Mountain. Two dozen women from 11 states joined him for a week of workshops on botanical dyes, felted miniature coats, and, of course, embroidery, using one of his latest fabrics: a bold and bright vintage kitsch map of Sonoma County.

Robert Mahar speaks during his craft retreat at Westerbeke Ranch in Sonoma on Tuesday, September 16, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Robert Mahar speaks during his craft retreat at Westerbeke Ranch in Sonoma on Tuesday, Sept. 16, 2025. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
A student’s practice stitches lay on top of a cloth Sonoma County map that will be used for embroidery at Robert Mahar’s craft retreat at Westerbeke Ranch in Sonoma on Tuesday, September 16, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
A student’s practice stitches lay on top of a cloth Sonoma County map that will be used for embroidery at Robert Mahar’s craft retreat at Westerbeke Ranch in Sonoma on Tuesday, Sept. 16, 2025. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

Many participants were already familiar with embroidery hoops and “floss” (the six-strand cotton thread), so Mahar moved quickly into some of his favorite tips and tricks. Using an overhead projector, he demonstrated how to easily separate threads in a skein of floss and how the number of threads used can change the look of a stitch from delicate to bold, much like how brush size affects watercolor painting. He shared that a linen or cotton canvas is his favorite, explaining, “It makes a popping noise when you stitch through — a little crafting ASMR.”

After offering a refresher in several stitches — fly, running, back, star, satin, and finally tidy French knots — he encouraged his students to explore free-form embroidery on their maps. “The goal,” he reminded them, “is not perfection, it’s documenting a memory.”

Mahar’s fabrics, such as his vibrant map of Sonoma County, serve as canvases for creativity, inviting anyone — regardless of embroidery experience — to embellish the designs. “It encourages a newbie to want to dig in and do more,” he says.

Embroidery artist Robert Mahar
Embroidery artist Robert Mahar stitches on one of his newest fabrics he created with a vintage map of Sonoma County. (Chad Surmick / Sonoma Magazine)

Mahar holds himself to a higher standard, however. “I’ve been doing this for a long time, so I have a certain sense of artistry that I bring to it.”

There has long been a tension between art and craft, with the former historically elevated above the other. For Mahar, who has a degree in art history and spent more than a decade as a fine art appraiser, the lines between the two have recently blurred.

“We’re seeing a lot more fine artists incorporate elements of craft into their work,” he says, pointing to exhibitions like the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art’s recent retrospective of Ruth Asawa, famous for her crocheted wire sculptures. “It’s more driven by the creator than the culture,” he adds.

A particularly fortuitous discovery since moving to Sonoma has been the Sonoma Botanical Garden, where Mahar now serves as the director of learning and engagement. Over the years he has taught embroidery classes at botanical gardens in San Francisco and Palo Alto featuring his vintage plant and floral samplers, something he hopes to introduce into the programming at the Glen Ellen garden.

Embroidery artist Robert Mahar stitches together one of his art projects
Embroidery artist Robert Mahar stitches together one of his art projects. (Chad Surmick / Sonoma Magazine)

After two decades in an entrepreneurial career that required frequent travel, Mahar appreciates the opportunity to stay close to home and his family. He also relishes having time to stitch together a new network of resources, friendships, and community.

“I’m trying to lean into that with a sense of adventure that I haven’t had in a long time,” he says.

Gardens Aglow

Robert Mahar has created a Winter Workshop of DIY craft projects as part of the “Gardens Aglow” event at Sonoma Botanical Gardens. From 5-8 p.m. Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays Dec. 5-21. Tickets: $30 general, $25 members, $12 youth 5-17, free for children 4 and under. 12841 Highway 12, Glen Ellen. 707-996-3166, sonomabg.org