It’s hard to know whether I’m delighted or horrified by the baseball bat-sized pepper grinder headed toward my table. Death by Spice would be such an embarrassing obituary. But as our server approaches with this cannon of seasoning, I also notice slices of mortadella flapping on a tiny trapeze headed toward a neighboring table from the corner of my eye.
I’m in a bad Fellini movie, or Petaluma’s newest Italian hot spot, L’Oro di Napoli, is as much theater as it is a restaurant.
Located in downtown Petaluma’s historic commercial district, the 8,000-square-foot building at 208 Petaluma Blvd. North is a worthy backdrop. Built in 1870, the exposed brick walls, soaring ceilings and sky-high windows set the stage for a tableau of Neapolitan life, complete with shuttered “windows” overlooking the dining room and bar, and a faux balcony above the dining room similar to the Santa Rosa restaurant. Cheeky laundry lines full of clothes — like the ones decorating the Fourth Street restaurant — will be installed soon.
“We want you to feel like you’re in Italy when you’re here,” said co-owner Domenico De Angelis in thickly accented English. A native of Naples, he’s imported not only the feel of his hometown but authentic Italian ingredients and a Southern Italian staff mostly made of friends from home. When you’re at De Angelis’ restaurant, which he owns with Roberto Sbaraglia, you’re truly part of a family.
That includes plenty of intentional cacophony that the owners say is part of the fun. When I asked about the rising decibel level as the night progressed — Americans tend to be sensitive about that kind of thing — the answer was that Naples can be loud and chaotic, and they wanted to recreate that atmosphere.
An expanded space, expanded menu
More than double the size of the flagship Neapolitan-style pizzeria and trattoria in Santa Rosa, the second outpost of L’Oro di Napoli opened in early March at the former Thai Issan.
Santa Rosans have been flocking to the original L’Oro di Napoli on Fourth Street since it opened in 2022. The thin-bottom, leopard-spotted Neapolitan-style pizzas are the real deal, using imported ingredients and De Angelis’ pizzaiolo skills. The six-layer lasagna is stuffed with beef Bolognese, béchamel, tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese. It’s the best nonna-style lasagna you’ll ever eat.
In Petaluma, not only is the space larger, but so is the menu. Offerings include a long list of antipasti, such as fried calamari, Brussels sprouts with pecorino, salads and most importantly, fresh pasta, plus new entrées like zucchini Parmesan and branzino with a lemon-wine sauce. The one thing you won’t find is the legendary lasagna — De Angelis wants to keep that a Santa Rosa specialty.
Despite the many little surprise and delightful moments at L’Oro di Napoli, the food never takes a back seat. De Angelis and his crew know how to make the comforting, approachable Southern Italian cuisine of their ancestors. The Pompeii-style wood-fired oven, imported from Naples, would be recognizable to ancestors from millennia past, cooking the same style of bread and round dough unearthed by archaeologists.
L’Oro di Napoli is a joy to experience, from the moment you walk in the doors to your last bite of tiramisu. Enjoy the show.
Best Bets
Charcuterie board, $27: You’ve never seen a meat and cheese board like this. Slices of mortadella hang like trapeze artists on a line stretched between two dowels with cheese wedges below, offering a safety net if anything falls. You have to appreciate the sheer silliness of it all. Though slightly over-the-top, when was the last time your food did a circus act?
Frittatina, $16: Think mozzarella stick meets arancini ball. Bucatini pasta with béchamel sauce, peas and Bolognese ragu is rolled into a patty, breaded and fried — a perfect bar snack with a Hugo spritz cocktail.
Homemade bread, $5: Fresh, crusty bread served with chimichurri and balsamic butter. It’s wonderful, but keep a couple of slices to sop up sauce.
Caprese con burrata, $15: A fist-sized ball of soft mozzarella stuffed with cream is never a bad choice. This version doesn’t need much gussying up, served with San Marzano tomatoes, fresh basil and balsamic. You’ll be spoiled for any other version.
Pappardelle al tartufo, $28: Black truffle cream sauce, sausage and mushrooms cling to wide strips of fresh pasta that are both silky and toothy.
Pistachio pizza, $25: Neapolitan-style wood-fired pizzas are the soul of L’Oro di Napoli. You can’t go wrong with any variation, from simple Margherita to the elaborate patate e porchetta with roasted pork and potatoes, plus smoked and pecorino cheese. I fell in love with the pistachio pizza, topped with smoked cheese, pistachio pesto, mortadella, provolone cream and basil. I shared a nearly identical pizza with friends in Split, Croatia, on one of the happiest days of my life — so I may be a little biased.
Tiramisu, $12: This classic Italian dessert made with lady fingers, mascarpone, chocolate and espresso liqueur isn’t the best version I’ve ever had, but it’s undoubtedly the most entertaining. Served in a moka pot — the iconic octagonal espresso maker on every Italian stove — it’s a delightful surprise for the end of a meal.
L’Oro di Napoli is at 208 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-981-7175, lorodinapolica.com. Open from 4:30 to 9 p.m. Monday, Wednesday and Thursday; noon to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and noon to 8 p.m. Sunday. Closed Tuesdays.
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.