From hanging tacos to vegan cocoa, here are the best things I ate in June.
Big Lou, Little Lou’s at Jack’s Filling Station: Every burger I eat from here on out will have to live up to this sassy, saucy, gloriously messy masterpiece. Two thin, lacy-edged patties, melted American cheese, grilled onions, pickles, dreamy Thousand Island-style sauce and a bun that’s soft enough to squish but sturdy enough to hold it all together — if you eat it fast enough. And you will. 899 Broadway, Sonoma, 707-343-7203, jacksfillingstation.square.site
Bibim Noodle Bowl, Little Saint: Spicy, savory and packed with umami, this sesame oil-slicked soba noodle bowl with grilled oyster mushrooms and garlicky gochujang is a showcase for plant-based cooking. Pickled vegetables, fermented cabbage, crispy shallots and nori crunch add layers of texture and flavor to a hearty cold bowl that pairs beautifully with a couple of glasses of bubbles. 25 North St., Healdsburg, 707-433-8207, littlesainthealdsburg.com
Quesa Birria Tacos, Carrusel: I can’t say these were the best birria tacos I’ve ever had, but they earn extra points for arriving suspended from a tiny clothesline. The trio, clipped up with pink clothespins and gently swaying, is stuffed with braised beef and griddled until the cheese forms a crisp shell. Who thought this was a good idea? Who cares? Served with pickled onions and a rich consommé for dipping, they’re simply fun. 630 Third St., Santa Rosa, 707-655-8365, instagram.com/cafe_carrusel
Salmon, Bohemian Bistro: A simple fillet of tender, flaky king salmon arrived with an airy lemongrass hollandaise. The seasonal dish may already be gone, but chef Ray Martinez’s ever-changing weekly menu offers plenty of reasons to return. 3782 Bohemian Highway, Occidental, 707-874-6888, bohemianbistrorr.com
Pork belly on my mind
This deliciously crisp, gloriously fatty cut has been popping up everywhere lately, and I’m not complaining. Your arteries may object, but your taste buds will win the argument.
Dong Po Pork Belly, Mei Mei Foods x Baso: Bazaar Sonoma’s Sean Quan and Jenny Phan have been hosting pop-ups at Lo & Behold ahead of the opening of their Chinese-inspired food hall and grocery in the former Quail & Condor space on Healdsburg Avenue. The crowds have already found them. On a recent Tuesday, the couple served old and new favorites, including cheeseburger egg rolls, siu mai dumplings and clay pot pork belly lacquered in a sweet-savory soy glaze that perfectly complemented the rich meat. instagram.com/meimeifoods_co
Crispy Pork Belly Lechon, AYA Sonoma: A Lao-inspired version with crackling skin, meltingly tender meat and just enough rendered fat. The jeow som, loaded with garlic, shallots and fish sauce, elevates the dish from delicious to unforgettable. 288 Golf Course Drive W. at Graton Resort & Casino, Rohnert Park, 707-588-3750, ayasonoma.com
Pork Belly, Salt & Stone: Crisp-edged pork belly with pickled carrots, sambal aioli and a Vietnamese fish sauce glaze became an instant table favorite and disappeared almost as quickly as it arrived. 9900 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-833-6326, saltstonekenwood.com
Dessert
Carrot Cake Cupcake, Salt & Stone: This supersized carrot cake cupcake with cream cheese frosting deserves a permanent spot on the dessert menu. It’s large enough to share, but why would you? 9900 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-833-6326, saltstonekenwood.com
Ashwagandha Cocoa, Little Saint: Dark vegan cocoa scented with cinnamon and clove, served hot in a clay mug, would get me out of bed early most mornings. Add a swirl of vegan whipped cream, which is remarkably convincing, and suddenly I’m ready for a brisk hike up Fitch Mountain and a stroll through the Saturday farmers market. 25 North St., Healdsburg, 707-433-8207, littlesainthealdsburg.com
