Santa Rosa’s newest — and pinkest — brunch spot began with Ivy Reyes’ childhood dream of owning an Easy-Bake Oven.
Though her family couldn’t afford one, Reyes never forgot the toy oven or her dream of opening a bakery. Decades later, she opened Carrusel, a portal to her youth and a fantasyland of glitter, bows, flowers and carousel horses that makes Barbie’s Dreamhouse look restrained.
“My childhood is poured into here,” Reyes said.
Dressed head to toe in sparkles and sipping a pink Red Bull at 11 a.m. on a Wednesday (what else would she drink?), Reyes radiates Barbie glamour. At 33, the Instagram influencer, who drives a pink Range Rover and dreams up elaborate social media promotions, is very much queen of all she surveys.
“This is just me,” she said, wrapping manicured pink nails around the heart-shaped straw in her energy drink. “I put it together for the love of food, color and a dream. I want it to be an enchantment.”
These days, Reyes is no longer dreaming about an Easy-Bake Oven. She’s overseeing a staff of 50, an ambitious cocktail program and a six-page Mexi-brunch menu that keeps the kitchen busy.
Family roots
Beneath the spectacle is a family story built on work and sacrifice.
Reyes, her immigrant parents and two brothers shared a one-bedroom apartment while the family built La Fondita restaurant and Elenita’s food truck in Roseland. She grew up alongside her mother in the kitchen, learning both the food and business sides of the restaurant industry.
“Growing up, it was very, very worrisome when my parents were starting out and living check to check,” she said. “I remember that, and it keeps me humble.”
Her mother eventually gave Reyes the opportunity to build something of her own, transforming the former La Fondita downtown into something entirely new.
“She put everything on a silver platter,” Reyes said. “From there, she said, ‘Fly with it. You’re on your own.’”
Reyes had hoped her grandmother would be the first person through Carrusel’s doors. Before she died, Reyes showed her the nearly finished restaurant by phone from the hospital and received her blessing.
“I’ve had people of all ages tear up here,” Reyes said. “It brings out the inner child in everyone.”
Flowers, candles and bright colors had always lifted her spirits, and she wanted Carrusel to offer guests the same escape.
“When your world goes gray, paint it pink,” she said. “You can have a bad day, come in here and forget the problems you’re having.”
Best bets
Carrusel is about fun and fantasy rather than fine dining. Expect cotton-candy-topped cocktails, tacos served on a high wire and a Mexi-brunch menu that blends American and Latin flavors with carnival flair. Desserts lean unapologetically sweet, with glazes, marshmallows and chocolate piled high.
And yes, you can eat on the outdoor carousel, which somehow makes everything taste more fun.
Raspberry Mocha Truffle, $8: The fact that I’ve ordered this three times says plenty about my weakness for sugar, glitter and caffeine. Thick raspberry foam (banana and blueberry are also available), edible butterflies (I use “edible” loosely) and chocolatey iced mocha make this a memorable way to start the day. Or night.
Queso Birria Tacos, $20: One of the menu’s most entertaining presentations, with three consommé-soaked birria tacos suspended on a clothesline-like rack. Fiery avocado salsa and extra consommé for dipping complete the show.
Enmoladas, $20: Not the prettiest dish on the menu, but one of the most satisfying. Rich, dark mole blankets chicken-filled tortillas. Sometimes no glitter is needed.
Brunch Board, $35: Order this butterfly-shaped board simply because you can. It comes loaded with banana French toast, strawberry-topped pancakes, a berry-topped Belgian waffle, fresh fruit and Nutella.
Funnel Cake, $18: This fairground favorite is available year-round, piled high with fruit, powdered sugar, chocolate and bananas whenever the craving strikes.
Japanese Pancakes, $18: These take about 20 minutes to make and involve a special technique known only to the kitchen. They aren’t quite as airy as the versions popularized in Japan, but they’re close enough.
Cloud Nine, $18: Dragon berry rum, lychee, lemon and vanilla topped with a cloud of cotton candy — exactly what your 9-year-old self imagined you would be drinking at 21.
Mimosa Flight, $38: Every mimosa should come this way. More brunchy fun for everyone.
Chilaquiles, $19: Judging by the number landing on neighboring tables, this may be the restaurant’s most popular dish.
Open from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Carrusel is at 630 Third St., Santa Rosa, 707-655-8365, instagram.com/cafe_carrusel.