Napa Valley winemaker Paula Kornell. (Leigh Ann Beverley)
When Napa Valley winemaker Paula Kornell released her inaugural Brut Rosé in March, she was celebrating more than just a new addition to her small portfolio.
She was toasting her success in having any wine at all, after her partnership with Vintage Wine Estates collapsed the previous year (the partnership covered sales and distribution). The behemoth corporation suddenly filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in July 2024, leaving Kornell and some 30 other wine and spirits brands across California, Oregon and Washington unprepared and facing the auction block.
Some big names, like Sonoma County’s B.R. Cohn, Kunde and Viansa wineries, were quickly snatched up by new owners. But Paula Kornell Sparkling Wine, established just eight years ago and producing less than 20,000 cases annually across three wines, was a bit too boutique to be in the spotlight.
Napa Valley winemaker Paula Kornell. (Leigh Ann Beverley)
“It really was a shock to the whole wine community that it fell apart,” she said. “Vintage (Wine Estates) bought so many brands, and then I don’t think they put the love and care that all the brands needed. It shows that consolidation is not always for the best. These days, you need to have a great story to sell your wines and, in this marketplace, you really need to have the right (marketing and distribution) bandwidth behind it.”
Kornell tried not to panic during the transition.
“I will say that I was blessed with the fact that I had worked 10 years with Robert Mondavi, and they were a great marketing and sales organization,” she said. “I’m so glad I had that education there, because without that, I don’t know if I would have survived.”
Then, in November, Kornell found new partners, Mike and Jenny Farmer of Calistoga.
Mike Farmer, formerly the president of commercial operations at Builders FirstSource supplies and materials company, now serves on the board of directors for the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society.
From left, winemaker Robin Akhurst, Paula Kornell, Mike Farmer and Jenny Farmer. (Alexander Rubin Photography)
After nearly 20 years as a labor and delivery nurse, Jenny Farmer now serves on the board of Hope Scarves, an organization dedicated to raising funds for metastatic breast cancer research and patient support.
It was serendipity — the Farmers had been Kornell’s very first customers when she launched her inaugural vintage, a 2017 Napa Valley Blanc de Noir. The trio had bonded over their shared love of wine, dogs and commitment to charitable work. Kornell was the president of the board of directors for Napa Valley Vintners and served on the boards of Napa Humane and Queen of the Valley Medical Center in Napa.
“They (the Farmers) came to my home in St. Helena to drink bubbles with me,” she said. “I call my house Château Drool since I have three dogs. And they have bulldogs.”
The Farmers helped Kornell finish and launch her fourth sparkling, the California Brut Rosé.
Paula Kornell Sparkling Wine’s inaugural Brut Rosé. (Alexander Rubin Photography)
A personal and professional turning point
Losing her affiliation with Vintage Wine Estates was as much a personal loss as it was a professional one. Kornell’s father, Hanns Kornell — a third-generation German winemaker and Dachau concentration camp survivor — moved to New York in 1939, then hitchhiked to California, eventually leasing a winery in Sonoma in 1952.
Seven years later, he and his new wife — opera singer and doctor Marilouise Rossini — purchased the historic 1895 Larkmead Winery Estate in Napa Valley. They renamed the sprawling property Hanns Kornell Champagne Cellars, where they showcased the Méthode Champenoise sparkling style. (In 1992, the estate was purchased by Frank Family Vineyards.)
Paula Kornell always knew she would be in the wine industry. Born in 1959, she got her first job at 10, selling prunes and walnuts from her grandmother’s orchard and feathers from the family’s peacocks in front of the Hanns Kornell tasting room.
Her career trajectory led her to numerous roles at her parents’ winery, traveling the world and further training at prestigious hotels and wineries. Along the way, she met Vintage Wine Estates co-founder Pat Roney.
Napa Valley winemaker Paula Kornell’s sparkling wine poured at an outdoor brunch. (Leigh Ann Beverley)
In 2014, she established a consulting business, Kornell Wine Company, yet quietly dreamed of creating her own label to share the sparkling wines she loves.
“I’d known Pat since the Hanns Kornell days, and when he suggested we do something together, it seemed like a great opportunity,” she said. “And it was. I was given an incredible opportunity to start my own brand, thanks to the boost that Pat gave me. Vintage (Wine Estates) truly left me alone to design and create what Paula Kornell Sparkling is today. It’s just so sad that they went under.”
But Kornell now believes the change propelled her toward greater happiness.
“Mike and Jenny are such great friends and they were aware of all the trials and tribulations I was going through. They kept saying they wanted to help, and sure enough, now they are my new partners. So, I am really very, very lucky.”
Fried Chicken Dinner for Two with a green salad, bean cassoulet and chicken gravy from Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Petaluma is awash with great restaurants, from simple sandwiches to luxurious farm-to-table experiences. It’s never easy to pick favorites, but there are some menus that stand head and shoulders above the rest.
Read on below for our favorite Petaluma restaurants of the moment. Check out the gallery for a peek.
Table Culture Provisions
Table Culture Provisions started quietly, popping up a night or two a week at Petaluma’s Wishbone restaurant. It’s become one of the hottest dining tickets in Sonoma County as owners Stephane Saint Louis and Steven Vargas upped the ante with a Michelin-worthy multi-course tasting menu. From 4 to 6 p.m., TCP offers an a la carte menu of snacks and larger dishes. Reservations recommended. 312 Petaluma Blvd. S., Petaluma, 707-559-5739, tcprovision.com
Table Culture Provisions chef Stéphane Saint Louis serves a collage of late spring bites for two, including squid-ink madeleines, asparagus cappuccino, and golden orbs of Indian pani puri filled with Dungeness crab salad. (Kim Carroll/Sonoma Magazine)
Street Social
With just six tables and 300 feet of dining space, Street Social feels like the most logical extension of the buzzy underground pop-ups that owners Jevon Martin and Marjorie Pier have hosted up and down the California coast for years. With just over a dozen diners in the restaurant at its busiest, it’s unavoidably intimate and makes you feel like you’ve stumbled across a secret culinary hideout. You have. But with a reservation, anyone’s welcome. 29F Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-774-6185, streetsocial.social
Quiote
This family-owned taqueria is worth a special trip. Their handmade blue corn tortillas — topped with fresh rock cod, cochinita pibil with pickled onions, or al pastor and salsa verde — always make my “best tacos” list. Add a side of guacamole with serrano chiles and crispy raspadas or brothy Rancho Gordo beans to get the full experience. While you’re there, I highly recommend the Jalisco-style mole and braised chicken enchiladas. 121 Kentucky St., Petaluma. 707-774-6130, quiotemx.com
Dishes from Quiote in downtown Petaluma, Friday, Sept. 8, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)The simple Margherita pizza at Stellina Pronto pizzeria and bakery in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Stellina Pronto
Come for the pastries, stay for the pizza at this Italian bakery cafe. Opened in 2021 with a mouthwatering lineup of baked goods and sandwiches, Stellina Pronto fired up its pizza ovens in May to churn out Neapolitan-meets-New York style pies. Go for the simple yet classic Margherita or the potato and garlic-topped Gianni — one of the bakery’s best white pizzas. Don’t forget to grab a cornetto during your visit.
Part sandwich shop, part Italian grocer, part deli, part bottle shop — Stellina Alimentari defies easy explanation. Owner Christian Caiazzo aptly describes the narrow, brick-lined, mosaic-tiled eatery as having a New York Attitude with Italian Soul. Don’t miss the Il Michelangelo porchetta sandwich, fried risotto balls, panzarotti potato cakes and antipasti. 160 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, stellinaalimentari.com
Brigitte Bistro
Chef/owner Nick Ronan serves the kind of food he loves best: hearty bistro-style dishes like beef bourguignon and duck confit, along with tableside beef tartare and the requisite steak frites. But instead of pandering to us, he brings the flavors of French homeland directly to the table. Ronan’s favorite motto, “Love. Food. Wine. Passion. Life. People” comes through in his comforting, homey cuisine. 841 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, brigittebistropetaluma.com
French onion soup at Brigitte Bistro in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)Dolsot Bibimbap, rice topped with vegetables and fried egg in a sizzling stone pot with beef, with traditional Korean side dishes from Soban Korean in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Soban
Routinely recognized as the best “true” Korean cuisine in Sonoma County, Soban serves up an array of hard-to-find dishes like savory pancakes with kimchi, Japchae (glass noodles), Tteokbokki (chewy rice cake that’s a popular street food), spicy pork Bulgogi, sizzling rice bibimbap and soft tofu soup. 255 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-769-3112, sobanpetaluma.com
Sarmentine
The third location of this Santa Rosa French bakery favorite opened in 2024, offering a drool-worthy collection of bakery cases piled with cream-filled desserts like Paris Brest (pate a choux filled with praline cream) and Mille-Feuille, chocolate croissants, brioche buns, fruit tarts (the passion fruit is a favorite) and Madeleines. Tiny caneles have a sticky, crunchy crust and custardy center that buckle my knees with happiness. Bonus: The bakery and cafe now serves brunch. 840 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, sarmentine.com
A selection of dishes from the brunch menu at Sarmentine Bakery in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)The Butchers Board served at Central Market in Petaluma. (Crista Jeremiason/The Press Democrat)
Central Market
Dressed in his chef’s coat, Tony Najiola looms large over the dining room — watching every dish go out, visiting every table to ensure his patrons are happy — but he never imposes. The open kitchen, dining room and bar feel airy, with full views of the wood-fired oven and the line. But it’s the food, frequently sourced from Najiiola’s Muleheart Farm, that really does the talking here. Instead of foams and potions and powders, the food is just, well, food. 42 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-778-9900, centralmarketpetaluma.com
Pearl
Inspired by the flavors of the Eastern Mediterranean and North Africa (with a little Southern French and Spanish thrown in for good measure), chef/owners Brian Leitner and Annette Yang continue to impress with their sunny interpretations of shakshuka, fresh pita, fattoush salad and braised meats, including brisket and lamb. 500 First St., Petaluma, 707-559-5187, pearlpetaluma.com
Shakshuka with chickpea, fava and tomato stew at Pearl restaurant in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)Meatballs and mashed potatoes at Stockhome restaurant. (Courtesy of newrevmedia.com)
Stockhome
A neighborhood hub for unfussy family-friendly Turkish and Mediterranean street food found in the larger cities of Sweden with homey classics like Swedish meatballs, pickled herring and Swedish pancakes on the menu — all of it with a few nods to California as well. Consider it the United Nations of local dining. 220 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8511, stockhomerestaurant.com
Lunchette
We love the carefully-sourced, healthy and delicious lunch options at this tiny downtown walk-up. The smoked trout salad with preserved lemon vinaigrette, roasted beets, pickled raisins and cashews is our favorite, along with a warm grain bowl with roasted sweet potatoes and chickpeas. Slices of fresh pizza are also available to pair with your salad. 25 Fourth St., Petaluma, 707-241-7443, lunchettepetaluma.com
The Shuckery
Raw oysters are a Sonoma County staple, and I always forget how much I love the small, unassuming Kumamotos at The Shuckery. Dedicated to the humbler oyster, this cozy cafe is a shucker’s dream. Try the Bingos, grilled oysters with Cognac, mayonnaise, Parmesan and garlic. Plus a full bar and outdoor seating. 100 Washington St., Petaluma, 707-981-7891, theshuckeryca.com
The Dozen Oyster plate includes St. Simone, Kummomoto and Hog Island oysters from The Shuckery in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Five-piece nigiri at Sake 107 in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Sake 107
Chef Eiji Ando, a Hana Japanese alum, has dedicated his life to the craft. It’s awe-inspiring to watch the flicking of his hands as he shapes the seasoned rice and fish into a single perfect bite, and perfect isn’t a word we use lightly when it comes to nigiri. This is seriously awesome sushi and izayaki in downtown Petaluma that reminds us of what great Japanese food can really taste like. 107 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-241-7580, sake107.com
Brewsters Beer Garden
This 350-seat outdoor beer garden in the heart of downtown Petaluma would be packed no matter what the menu looked like — it’s a great place to have a beer. But the food continues to impress, with smoked brisket, my favorite buttermilk fried chicken sando (it’s the goat cheddar) and seasonal salads. Great for a night out with friends or family. 229 Water St. N., Petaluma, 707-981-8330, brewstersbeergarden.com
Wild Goat Bistro
A waterfront classic with insanely good Neapolitan pizzas (like the four cheese fig and pig with prosciutto and fig spread), polenta fries, Early Girl Dip with heirloom tomatoes and pancetta and dinner entrees including Shepherd’s pie, and wild salmon with roasted artichokes. 6 Petaluma Blvd. N., Suite A5, Petaluma, 707-658-1156, wildgoatbistro.com
Short Rib Barbacoa Tacos from Quiote in downtown Petaluma, Friday, Sept. 8, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
It’s no secret that Sonoma County is a hotbed of divine cuisine. From world-renowned, Michelin-starred restaurants to hidden gem favorites, one could throw a rock in any direction and stumble upon a worthy eatery. With a vast culinary pool to pull from, our dining editor was tasked with finding the best, must-try local dishes — and these eats do not disappoint.
Barbecue
A&M BBQ
Barbecue powerhouses Kris Austin and Marvin McKinzy teamed up last year for the ultimate Texas ‘cue in Sebastopol. The line can snake out the door, and sometimes they sell out, so it’s good to get there early. “We don’t try to cover up the meat with sauce, so you can taste the time we put into it,” says Austin. 495 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-1315, ambbqllc.com
Texas Toast, cornbread muffins, pork ribs, links, brisket and tri-tip, barbecue chicken, baked beans, coleslaw and collard greens at A&M BBQ in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)Ten-layer lasagna at Catelli’s in Geyserville. (Chris Hardy/for Sonoma Magazine)
Ten-Layer Lasagna
Catelli’s
You can literally read a newspaper through each layer of super-thin pasta going into the dish. A family recipe that’s been refined over the years, it has a three-cheese filling of creamy Bellwether Farms ricotta, goat cheese and aged Parmesan. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-3471,mycatellis.com
Whole Roasted Branzino
Glen Ellen Star
Just about anything from chef Ari Weiswasser’s wood-fired oven is pretty magical, but the flaky, crispy whole roasted fish rises above, especially when served with shaved fennel, preserved lemon and tomato-y romesco sauce. 13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-343-1384, glenellenstar.com
Glen Ellen Star uses their wood-fired oven for a variety of dishes, including this whole fish served over a romesco sauce. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)The Market Plate with sautéed spinach, copper, roasted tomatoes, hard boiled egg creamy polenta and cambozola toast from Willow Wood Market Cafe in Graton. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Perfect Breakfasts
Willow Wood Market Café
Since 1995, this charming spot has welcomed west county neighbors for excellent French folded eggs with fontina and basil, or golden polenta crowned with exquisite poached eggs and crispy prosciutto. 9020 Graton Road, Graton, 707-823-0233, willowwoodgraton.com
Lamb Chops
Willi’s Wine Bar
This Santa Rosa institution is a not-so-secret clubhouse for many of the county’s movers and shakers, an office away from home. Lamb chops are just one of the many small-plates favorites here, along with curried crab tacos and roasted carrots. 1415 Town and Country Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-526-3096,starkrestaurants.com
Moroccan-style barbecued lamb chops with mint chutney and preserved lemon couscous is a traditional dish at Willi’s Wine Bar in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Jok porridge at Jam’s Joy Bungalow. (Courtesy of Jam’s Joy Bungalow)
Jok Porridge
Jam’s Joy Bungalow
We’re special fans of this morning hangover helper: a tummy filling rice porridge with spicy ginger, herbs, fried shallots, a custardy 6-minute egg, and khao man gai sauce, a traditional Thai street-food favorite. You’ll never look at oatmeal the same way again. While the storefronts have closed, Jam’s Joy Bungalow offers catering for all types of events, as well as occasional pop-ups around the county. Reach out on Instagram for more details. 707-843-9001, jamsjoybungalow.com
Blue corn tacos
Quiote
Handmade blue corn tortillas topped with fresh rock cod, cochinita pibil with pickled onions, or al pastor and salsa verde, always make our “best tacos” list. Add a side of guacamole with serrano chiles and crispy raspadas or brothy Rancho Gordo beans to get the full experience. 121 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-774 -6130, quiotemx.com
Tacos from Quiote in downtown Petaluma is a must-try dish. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Slices of mushroom and potato pizza with chimichurri at Psychic Pie in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Pizza
Psychic Pie
Rectangular, Roman-style pizza with a fermented sourdough crust is served by the inch (you tell them how much you want) at this casual slice house in Sebastopol. The picks switch up weekly, and there are always veggie and vegan types in addition to meatier options. New this winter? They’re trying out round pies every once in a while — what a concept! 980 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-827-6032, psychicpie.com
Parking spots with a vineyard view. (Michelle Dondero)
There are countless ways to enjoy and share the beauty of Wine Country and Northern California — longtime friends and car aficionados Aaron Hagar and Rick Kaufman are doing it with classic horsepower.
In 2020, the two launched the Napa Valley 750 — a vintage car road rally and culinary crawl that spans 750 miles over five days, taking drivers on a scenic route from the heart of Wine Country to the rugged coastline and through a variety of Northern California locations.
The event’s name is a nod to both the distance covered and the classic 750 mL bottle of wine. But it’s not just about iconic cars and stellar food and wine. The event also benefits a good cause — in just six years, the spirited road rally has helped raise more than $1 million for the St. Helena Hospital Foundation.
“There’s so much to learn about this landscape,” Hagar said. “It’s a great experience and the philanthropy part is really honorable.”
(A small but very cool side note: Hagar is the son of Sammy “The Red Rocker” Hagar.)
Some of the vintage cars that took part in this year’s Napa Valley 750. (Michelle Dondero)
Since the inaugural road rally in 2020, a tight-knit group of car enthusiasts from all over the country (most from outside Wine County) have made the yearly trek to Napa Valley to drive motorcars built before 1972 — some trucked to Northern California from as far as Colorado.
“We’re pretty strict. If (the car) is not older than I am, it doesn’t come,” Kaufman joked. “The common thread is: Let’s go learn something together. Let’s do it with motoring. Let’s help each other get to the end.”
The collection of participating cars is eclectic and eye-catching — peering in windows and sharing stories during fuel stops and lunch breaks is part of the fun.
This year’s rally, held April 27 through May 2, featured a colorful lineup of vehicles, including a 1958 Lancia Aurelia B20, a 1965 Shelby Cobra 427, a 1972 Ferrari 365 GTC/4 and a 1970 Mini Cooper.
Parking spots with a vineyard view. (Michelle Dondero)Napa Valley 750 co-founder Aaron Hagar preps a participating car for the first day of the 2025 road rally. (Michelle Dondero)
Hagar and Kaufman emphasize that the Napa Valley 750 is a rally, not a race. The duo plan four days of driving before each event, typically including two inland and two coastal routes.
Each ride begins and ends at St. Helena’s Harvest Inn. (Kaufman owns the hotel property.) This year, day one was a dash to the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, crossing levees and scenic bridges, in addition to logging miles in Lodi.
Sonoma County had a starring role on day two, the ride winding its way through Knights Valley and across Highway 101 to Dry Creek Valley before stopping at the coast to take in the views and perhaps a sticky bun (or two) from Twofish Baking at the historic Stewarts Point Store.
The Napa Valley 750 includes four days of driving. Participants typically visit the Sonoma Coast during the event. (Napa Valley 750)
Drivers then got another taste of Sonoma County during lunch at Valette in Healdsburg. Chef Dustin Valette, co-owner of Valette and The Matheson, has been involved with the road rally for more than five years.
“This is a great group of leaders and philanthropists who are blazing an amazing trail for the rest of us to follow,” Valette said. “The Napa 750 loves to showcase the diversity of Wine Country. Our menus at The Matheson and Valette always showcase our amazing ranchers and farmers, though we love highlighting the best of Sonoma when they (Napa Valley 750 participants) are in town.”
More Sonoma County favorites, such as Graton, Occidental and Two Rock, made appearances on day three’s route, as well as notable Marin County locations like Point Reyes Station and Stinson Beach.
The sixth annual Napa Valley 750 road rally event included a number of sponsors. (Michelle Dondero)
The final day took drivers to Yolo County, past olive groves and farm stands before ending with a drive-by of St. Helena Hospital and a stop for lunch at Gott’s Roadside. A final dinner and fundraising auction at Harvest Inn capped off the sixth annual Napa Valley 750.
Throughout the five-day event, evenings were dedicated to dining experiences at wineries such as Nickel & Nickel, Ovid and Louis M. Martini. A bus shuttled guests back and forth, allowing drivers to taste wine from the vineyards they had admired from the road and bring some bottles home — even classic cars offer a decent amount of trunk space.
“We’re raising money around the culture of Wine Country, teaching people about where their food comes from, where their wine comes from,” Kaufman said.
Find out more: The dates for next year’s Napa Valley 750 will be announced on the event website and @napavalley750 on Instagram. Hagar and Kaufman are in the process of launching a nonprofit component to the road race called the Napa Artisan Legacy Project, Inc., which will focus on preserving Northern California’s cultural, agricultural and automotive heritage. More details will be revealed on the Napa Valley 750 website and Instagram.
Sonoma’s MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa received two separate four-star ratings from Forbes: one for the entire property and another for the recently refurbished Spa at MacArthur. (MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa)
With all that’s going on in the world, a lot of us are feeling overwhelmed, anxious and just plain stressed out.
As much as I’d like to whisk myself away for an all-day spa retreat complete with a 90-minute aromatherapy massage and 24-karat full-body mask with optional Beluga caviar and Cristal foot scrub, my current budget doesn’t always — and by that I mean practically never — allow for that kind of indulgence. I am a writer after all.
Fortunately for me and my wallet, Sonoma County offers lots of affordable ways to find serenity in stressful times. Here are some of my favorites, ranging in price from absolutely free to $50.
Join a Nature Walk
Summit at Jack London State Historic Park in Glen Ellen. (Courtesy Jack London State Historic Park)
Taking a walk or hike in a beautiful natural setting is a proven stress reliever, so stop doom-scrolling on your phone and get outside. While you’re at it, why not meet some other humans? Jack London State Historic Park in Glen Ellen regularly offers guided group hikes, like the upcoming Springtime Blooms and Birds experience (May 4) and Grounded in Nature: A Mindful Walk (June 14). Most hikes are just $20 to join and some are free.
Jack London State Historic Park, 2400 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, 707-938-5216, jacklondonpark.com
Say Ommmmmm
Yoga, especially the gentler hatha and vinyasa varieties, is a fabulous way to practice mindfulness and relaxation in a hectic world.
MacArthur Place in Sonoma offers $10 morning yoga sessions for Sonoma locals on Saturdays and Sundays, held on the property’s Burris Lawn or in Coach House. After you get your “om” on, stroll down to the Plaza for a caffeinated pick-me-up in the garden at Sunflower Caffé.
Sonoma’s MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa received two separate four-star ratings from Forbes. The ratings include one for the entire property and another for the recently refurbished Spa at MacArthur. (MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa)
Following an angst-inducing day at work, head over to Renew Yoga in Petaluma. Held on Tuesdays and Thursdays, their evening community yoga classes cost just $10. I can’t guarantee that you won’t be tempted into Old Chicago Pizza just down the hall for a post-yoga pie (the aromas wafting down the corridors are nearly impossible to resist), but cheesy comfort food can be its own kind of therapy.
Also in Petaluma, The Float House hosts free community yoga classes on the dock from May through September. The one-hour flow sessions take place on the first Friday of each month, and one Sunday per month.
The Sea Ranch Lodge offers free yoga (to the public) on Saturdays and Sundays in The Meadow Room. When you’re finished refreshing your mind and spirit, grab a craft cocktail and a seat on the ocean-facing deck to see if you can spot a passing whale.
MacArthur Place, 29 E. MacArthur St., Sonoma, 707-938-2929, macarthurplace.com. Renew Yoga, 35 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-762-7760, renew.yoga. The Float House, 50 Water St., Petaluma, 707-971-3640, thefloathousepetaluma.org. The Sea Ranch Lodge, 60 Sea Walk Drive, The Sea Ranch, 707-579-9777, thesearanchlodge.com
The Floathouse on the Petaluma River was moved across the basin to accommodate dock construction. Photographed on Monday, June 17, 2024. (Crissy Pascual / Petaluma Argus-Courier)
Get Out on the Water
When I’m feeling wound up or burned out, I grab my inflatable paddleboard and head for the water. Even if I can only spare 45 minutes between meetings, a leisurely paddle always makes me feel calm and relaxed.
If you don’t have your own watercraft, it’s easy and affordable to rent — and you won’t have to waste time and energy lugging your SUP or kayak down to the lake. The Float House in Petaluma rents paddleboards, kayaks and canoes for $30 per hour, and for $35 an hour you can rent a SUP at beautiful Lake Sonoma. Spring Lake in Santa Rosa also offers rentals during the summer and the lake’s compact size makes it a terrific place for paddlers.
Lake Sonoma Marina, 4200 Skaggs Springs Road, Geyserville, lakesonoma.com. Spring Lake Regional Park, 393 Violetti Road, Santa Rosa, 707-539-8092, sonomacountyparks.org
View of Lake Sonoma near Florence Vineyard in Geyserville. (Courtesy of Jack Florence)
Take a [Figurative] Bath
Forest bathing has become a “thing” lately, and Sonoma County, with its woody landscapes, is tailor-made for the Japanese eco-therapy practice. It involves going out into the forest with a guide and consciously using all five senses to slow down and connect with nature.
The Sonoma Land Trust hosts free community forest bathing sessions in local parks, led by well-known local practitioner Jenny Harrow-Keeler. Check out the online calendar for upcoming dates. The nonprofit also hosts a free series of “Wellness Wednesday” and “Mindful Monday” events.
Take a “forest bath” in Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Preserve. (Kent Porter)
Sound bathing is another option to soothe the soul. (If your favorite part of a yoga class is Shavasana, aka: “corpse pose,” this one’s for you!) As participants lie on their mats, facilitators use instruments like singing bowls, gongs and chimes to surround them with resonant sounds. Occidental Center for the Arts offers sound bath sessions on the second Tuesday of each month for $25-$35 on a sliding scale,
Poolside dining at Lazeaway Club at the Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Flamingo Resort)
When I feel like I need a vacation but can’t get away, a poolside retreat with tropical ambiance is the next best thing. Flamingo Resort & Spa in Santa Rosa offers a $49 Daycation Pass that includes access to the resort pool and lounge chairs, plus the hot tub, steam shower and sauna. (You can also use the hotel’s fitness facilities, but why disrupt the chill vibe with cardio?) When you’re ready for lunch and a cool drink, saunter on over to the Lazeaway Club for a bite.
Flamingo Resort and Spa, 2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-8530, flamingoresort.com
Cuddle a Cute Critter
Genesis Torres plays with one of the 20 rescued cats at the Mini Cat Town in the Santa Rosa Plaza mall in Santa Rosa. Photographed Monday, May 1, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
When the going gets tough, there’s nothing like quality time with a furry friend to leach the stress and worry from your body and mind.
Feline fans can find comfort at Mini Cat Town’s Kitten Lounge & Adoption Center at Santa Rosa Plaza. Fifteen bucks will get you 30 minutes of play and cuddle time with adorable kitties, and if you happen to fall in love, they’re all adoptable.
Not to worry if, like me, you’re highly allergic to cats and find that a trip to the emergency room is anything but relaxing. Focus Forward Studio in Santa Rosa offers Pawsitive Fitness yoga and Pilates classes ($30) alongside friendly rescue pups. The low-key classes are a collaboration with Compassion Without Borders in Santa Rosa, which means your fellow “classmates” are on the lookout for forever homes.
Mini Cat Town Kitten Lounge, 1071 Santa Rosa Plaza, Santa Rosa, minicattown.org. Focus Forward Studio, 4283 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, focusforwardstudio.com
Dining al fresco at The Restaurant at Auberge de Soleil in Rutherford. (The Ingalls)
Just in time for Mother’s Day, OpenTable has released its list of “2025’s Top 100 Brunch Restaurants,” and three Napa Valley favorites have earned a spot.
The annual list is based on more than 10.5 million verified diner reviews and dining metrics collected between Jan. 1 to Dec. 31, 2024. Restaurants from across the United States were evaluated using a combination of metrics, including diner ratings, the percentage of five-star reviews, how often diners set alerts, advance reservations, capacity and direct searches. To qualify, restaurants also needed a minimum number of brunch reviews and Sunday lunch availability.
Here’s where to book your next brunch in Napa Valley:
Mustards Grill, Yountville
A Wine Country institution for nearly 40 years, Mustards Grill serves up American regional dishes with global flair. Chef Cindy Pawlcyn’s signature brunch offerings include crowd favorites like the Mongolian pork chop, Niman Ranch burger and crispy calamari with curried slaw. With a wood-burning grill, oakwood smoker and the aptly named “Way Too Many Wines” list, this Yountville favorite is ideal for a relaxed yet flavorful brunch.
Fried Rhode Island calamari at Scala Osteria in Napa, Wednesday, Sept. 6, 2023. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Scala Osteria, Napa
Inspired by Southern Italian coastal cuisine, Scala Osteria brings a lively, seafood-forward experience to downtown Napa. The menu features housemade pastas, Neapolitan-style pizzas and a raw bar perfect for leisurely weekend dining. Whether you’re dining on the patio or soaking in the energy indoors, brunch here is best enjoyed family-style — with wine, of course. Be sure to book reservations early, as Scala Osteria is among the most sought-after restaurants in Wine Country.
At The Restaurant at Auberge de Soleil in Rutherford. (The Ingalls)
The Restaurant at Auberge du Soleil, Rutherford
Set on a sun-drenched hillside in Rutherford, The Restaurant at Auberge du Soleil offers sweeping vineyard views alongside a Michelin-starred brunch experience. Chef Robert Curry’s Mediterranean-inspired menu features fresh ingredients paired with wines from the resort’s 15,000-bottle cellar. Available on weekends only, seasonal brunch dishes include cold smoked salmon, duck confit hash, Maine lobster omelet and blueberry buttermilk pancakes. Guests can enjoy a luxurious two-course prix fixe brunch on the terrace, complete with elegant service and panoramic scenery.
Gringas, a quesadilla with taco filling, from Quiote in downtown Petaluma, Friday, Sept. 8, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Everyone has a favorite neighborhood taco shop, and arguing over who has the best burritos, tacos and salsa is a family tradition.
Over years of covering restaurants in Sonoma County, I’ve collected some tried-and-true spots where you can’t go wrong. So the next time you’re haggling with your friends over where to sit down for a Mexican feast, you’ll have some excellent suggestions, with my personal seal of approval.
Looking for the best burrito in Sonoma County? Click here.
Santa Rosa
Cascabel: Elevated Mexican flavors in a welcoming Montgomery Village location. Bite-sized potato pancakes with mole, barbacoa, and conchinita pibil — braised pork marinated in citrus and annatto seed — are top picks. 909 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 707-521-9444, cascabelbayarea.com
Cochinita Pibil with braised pork, salsa habanero, chars beans, red onions and cilantro from Cascabel Mexican Bar & Grill in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Los Tres Chiles: Family-friendly Mexican classics keep this Bennett Valley restaurant packed. The giant bacon-wrapped chimichanga dares you to eat it. 2765 Yulupa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-304-5724, lostreschiles.com
Taqueria Las Palmas: No-frills street tacos and burritos that consistently impress. 415 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-546-3091
La Texanita: Stellar Mexican antojitos (snacks) like stuffed sopes and the Torta Texana with chorizo made this a Guy Fieri favorite. 1667 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, 707-527-7331, latexanita.com
Caldo de Chamorro de Borrego with mushroom from Lucha Sabina at Mitote Food Park in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Lucha Sabina)
Mitote Food Park: A rotating lineup of food trucks, a mezcal cocktail bar and chocolate-filled churros make this a one-stop shop. Now in a new location. 100 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, mitotefoodpark.com
Taqueria California: The carnitas, carne asada and al pastor tacos have made this humble taqueria a darling of the delivery scene. Caramel-filled churros and sweet Jamaica agua frescas end the meal deliciously. 750 Stony Point Road, Suite A-155, Santa Rosa
Enchiladas Michoacan includes five enchiladas filled with quest fresco covered in guajillo sauce with potatoes and marinated chicken from Cielito Lindo restaurant in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Cielito Lindo: The list of add-ons to their super burritos is impressive, from al pastor and shredded chicken to soy chorizo, shrimp, potatoes and skirt steak. 52 Mission Blvd., Suite 110, Santa Rosa, 707-978-2070, instagram.com/cielitolindosantarosa
El Fogon Taco Shop: Quesadillas are nice, but a machete — a super-sized quesadilla with extra goodies inside — is what you’re here for. Mexico City street food like pambazo (a torta dipped in red pepper sauce) is also spectacular. 623 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-575-0574; 6576 Oakmont Drive, Suite A, Santa Rosa, 408-872-9953, elfogontacoshopca.com
Petaluma
Quiote: The menu at this family-owned Petaluma restaurant features regional touches from Jalisco, Mexico City and Oaxaca. “The cochinita pibil taco is particularly wonderful, overstuffed with at least double the meat of most tacos,” wrote Carey Sweet in a Press Democrat review when it opened. Chef Julio Ortiz rolls and shapes the blue corn tortillas by hand. 121 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-774 6130, quiotemx.com
Cochinita Pibil Tacos from Quiote in downtown Petaluma, Friday, Sept. 8, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Mole sauce over chicken, served with beans, rice and organic housemade tortillas at Tortilla Real Mexican Kitchen in Petaluma, on Monday, Feb. 21, 2022. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Tortilla Real Mexican Kitchen: Hit up the weekend brunch in this adorable downtown Petaluma cafe for chilaquiles, huevos rancheros and tortas. 5 Petaluma Blvd. S., Petaluma, 707-658-1415, tortillareal.com
Sonoma
El Molino Central: Tortillas are made from scratch while you wait. Beer-battered fish tacos with avocado lime mayo, ahi tostadas and tamales are best bets. Pick up Mole Enchiladas in the cold case to heat up at home. 11 Central Ave., Sonoma, 707-939-1010, elmolinocentral.com
Sonoma Eats: Chef Efrain Balmes makes the best Oaxacan food in Sonoma County using high-quality, locally farmed ingredients at a good price, infused with his heart and soul. The Mole Enchilada is what you’re here for. Other best bets include Baja Fish Tacos and Potato Tacos. 18133 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-343-1141, sonoma-eats.com
The chicken mole enchilada by chef Efrain Balmes at Sonoma Eats in Sonoma, Tuesday Nov. 22, 2022. (Chad Surmick / Press Democrat)
Healdsburg
Agave: Mole, a rich dark sauce made with more than 20 ingredients, is the signature of this family-owned restaurant. A large selection of imported mezcal is also a star attraction. 1063 Vine St., Healdsburg, 707-433-2411, agavehealdsburg.com
Gallina D’Oro (formerly El Farolito): Owned by the same family as Agave (and several other great Mexican restaurants), you can get their signature mole Oaxaqueno, tacos ahogados and quesabirria, plus tasty mezcal-infused cocktails. 128 Plaza St., Healdsburg, 707-433-2807, gallinadoro.com
Cloverdale
El Milagro: This Cloverdale restaurant serves regional Mexican cuisine that makes the drive worth it, running the gamut from pumpkin seed mole and guisado (slow-braised stew) to simple flautas and tacos. Everything is made from scratch here, following authentic family recipes. There’s also a Healdsburg location (14 Matheson St.). 485 S. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 707-894-6334, elmilagrocloverdale.com
Spring colors envelop John Leipsic of Larkspur and Wendy Robbins of Massachusetts as they tour the Western Hills Garden in Occidental, Tuesday, May 14, 2019. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
After the wet hush of winter, spring erupts at Western Hills Garden like an explosion of skyrockets. Purple and white Spanish bluebells peel out amid the woodlands, joined by baby blue forget-me-nots and white onion flowers. Rhododendrons and magnolias flaunt their lush blooms, while downy catkins, the seed-filled flower cluster of mature trees, drape from branches. Even the weeds seem to be showing off, says Hadley Dynak, who purchased the 3-acre historic garden in the redwood forest near Occidental with her husband, Kent Strader, in 2022.
It’s an exciting time of anticipation and potential, marked not just by the awakening plants and the lengthening days, but by the sudden activity of birds and bees as temperatures shift from brisk to comfortably cool. “Spring is like a loud shout — everything is alive and breathtaking,” says Dynak.
Hadley Dynak, the owner of the Western Hills Garden in Occidental, poses among the blooming forsythia. She is the new owner of the historic nursery in Occidental. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)The pond and garden at the Western Hills Garden in Occidental was created by Marshall Olbrich and Lester Hawkins in the 1960s as a place renowned for rare plants. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Western Hills was founded 60 years ago by Marshall Olbrich and Lester Hawkins, obsessive plant collectors with a commitment to a form of naturalistic, sustainable garden sensitive to California’s warm, dry summers and cool, wet winters. Together, they created a nursery that drew horticulturists and plant collectors from around the world to this tucked-away neighborhood of west county. The pair offered unusual specimens for sale, including many at the time seen nowhere else in the commercial nursery trade. Plant enthusiasts visited to swap seeds and talk ecology and world affairs with kindred spirits in what some describe as an informal outdoor salon of ideas.
Marshall and Lester — the garden’s fans refer to them in the familiar, like old friends — had a gentle way with plants, one which respected the tendency of plants and trees to grow half-wild and abundant. The garden fits into no neat design style or theme, beyond being a collector’s paradise of plants adapted to a Mediterranean climate, including primeval ferns and trees prized for their remarkable maturity, from an 84-foot-tall Japanese zelkova to a multi-stemmed Persian ironwood. Some 35 bridges meander past the five ponds, crossing back and forth over stone runnels channeling bubbling streams of water. A large folly just inside the entrance was inspired by the great English garden designer Penelope Hobhouse.
John Leipsic tours at Western Hills Garden in Occidental. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
New stewards
Dynak and Strader often dreamed of someday owning a place where they could bring together different communities in partnership, though the concept of a botanical garden never crossed their minds. Dynak is a creative producer who previously worked in the arts in Berkeley and Park City, Utah, while Strader is an attorney. With grown children, the couple faced a crossroads in 2023 after putting their home up for sale. When a friend called to suggest they check out a property in rural Sonoma, they were intrigued.
“We got up here, and we were blown away by the beauty,” Strader says. “I think within 10 minutes of seeing it, I turned to Hadley and said, ‘We’re buying this place.’”
Right away, they dug in, literally, building upon decades of work not only by the garden’s founders, but by previous owners and volunteers. Strader has fixed hundreds of feet of fencing and repaired many of the garden’s bridges. Last summer, he was cutting back a tangled thicket of undergrowth, and unearthed a whole “new” path and viewing bench concealed in the branches — a moment of surprise that speaks to the dense wonders found here.
Volunteer Barbera Costa waters the thousands of plants at the Western Hills Garden in Occidental on Thursday, July 31, 2014. The garden relies heavily on the support and work of its volunteers. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)
“We struggled a little early on,” says Strader. “Are we trying to recreate what was here? We went back and forth a lot and ended up with the idea that Lester and Marshall never would have sat on what they had and kept it the same. It would always have been evolving. We’re trying to honor the history while keeping it progressing forward.”
Strader and Dynak have weeded beds, composted leaves, and pruned hundreds of shrubs and trees with the help of a dozen volunteers and a new manager of horticulture, Justin Berthiaume, a former landscape architect with the National Park Service. And thanks to the efforts of intern Kat Gritt, who is studying arboriculture at Merritt College, the team has inventoried 832 different trees representing some 300 species, including a white eucalyptus that at 121 feet, is the tallest of its kind in the country.
A Chinese fringe tree and red rhododendrons at Western Hills Garden in Occidental. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)Coylus Avellana “Contorta,” also known as Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick, at Western Hills Garden in Occidental on Tuesday, March 1, 2022. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
In the past year, they’ve hosted school groups, book talks, forest-bathing sessions, journaling workshops and celebrations to mark the change of the seasons, focusing not just on horticulture but the arts. A class in “bioeuphoria” by Berkeley artist Jessica Abbott Williams had participants using handmade plant inks and natural objects to mark tiny, specific spots within the garden that captured their fascination, down to the level of a single flower or branch.
Weekend visitors check in at a small kiosk and are asked how they’d like to see the garden: by taking in broad sweeps of the landscape or looking up close. They’re offered magnifying glasses to take in new perspectives, such as the tiny marvel of the texture of a leaf or an insect collecting pollen.
It’s a perfect metaphor for what Dynak and Strader are trying to create: a place where many different groups can connect and where all are invited to wander, wonder and discover.
Smoked Salmon Hash with house-smoked salmon, oven dried tomatoes, green onions and hash browns, two eggs any style and lemon horseradish sauce from J & M’s Midtown Cafe, Thursday, Jan. 18, 2024, in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Scrambled eggs and toast won’t get me out of bed, but flash a sticky bun and some hollandaise my way, and I’m racing to the table.
In Sonoma County, the breakfast scene runs the gamut, from simple plates of pancakes to fancy caviar-blinged Benedicts to crackly croissants. And while better-known haunts get plenty of love, you might be surprised by some unexpected breakfast favorites from Petaluma to Cloverdale and everywhere in between.
Santa Rosa
Grossman’s Noshery & Bar: Of course, you’ll find great bagels and schmears at this Jewish-style deli, but insiders know to order the lox and latke Benedict with schmaltz hollandaise – because who needs English muffins when you have latkes? Add caviar if you’re feeling fancy. 308 Wilson St., 707-595-7707, grossmanssr.com
Lox & Latke Benedict with Caviar from Grossman’s Deli Friday, Oct. 11, 2024, in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)The Crebble (a croissant muffin) from Marla SR Bakery and Cafe in Santa Rosa, Nov. 16, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Marla Bakery: Only you can make the decision between the maple sugar and sea salt-dusted crebble (a croissant muffin) or the finger-licking sticky bun. Go for broke and get both — and since you’re there, add a fudgy dark chocolate brownie for later. 208 Davis St., 707-852-4091, marlabakery.com
Dierk’s Parkside Cafe: This humble café has reached icon status in Santa Rosa for its chef-driven menu and twist on breakfast standards. The Country Benedict on a crispy baguette with roasted tomatoes will always be my favorite, but the hash and cinnamon-dusted pull-a-parts are a close second. 404 Santa Rosa Ave., 707-573-5955, dierksparkside.com
J&M’s Midtown Cafe: Former Ramen Gaijin chef Joel Shaw’s weekly specials (like Hot Cross Bun sliders that sell out in minutes) are always a treat, but for traditionalists, the French toast is a winner — fresh ciabatta baguette dipped in egg, milk and cinnamon batter, leaving the inside soft and custard-like and the exterior crisp. 1422 Fourth St., 707-545-2233, jm-midtowncafe.com
Louisiana Hash with onions, bell peppers, bacon, potatoes, cheddar, eggs, herbs, mushrooms and spicy seasoning from J & M’s Midtown Cafe, Thursday, Jan. 18, 2024, in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Concha breakfast sandwiches from Tia Maria Panaderia in Santa Rosa Thursday, Dec. 22, 2022. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Tia Maria: At this neighborhood bakery and cafe, a sweet concha roll stuffed with scrambled egg, melty cheese and thick strips of bacon is pressed in a sandwich grill for a sweet, salty, creamy handheld breakfast sando like no other. Grab a Mexican hot chocolate for the road. 44 Sebastopol Ave., 707-540-9864, tiamaria.world
Brother’s Café: Most folks whiz by this setback cafe, located between a motel and a Mountain Mike’s on a nothing-burger stretch of Cleveland Avenue. Seek it out for the sticky-crunchy Dutch baby German pancake with caramelized apples. Also excellent are the biscuits with mushroom gravy. 3135 Cleveland Ave., 707-541-6345, brotherscafesr.com
Hank’s Creekside Cafe: Expect to sit around reading the paper on Saturday and Sunday mornings waiting for a table at this quirky Santa Rosa breakfast institution. Fluffy pancakes as big as your head, sausage, eggs and huevos rancheros, all served with a side of local cred and a homemade touch. Biscuits are made from scratch, eggs are fresh and the cottage fries are “Oh, my God” good. 2800 Fourth St., 707-575-8839, hanks-creekside.com
Guy Fieri tries blueberry pancakes at Hank’s Creekside Cafe in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Grilled vegetable hash at Jeffrey’s Hillside Cafe in Santa Rosa. (Scott Manchester)
Jeffrey’s Hillside Café: Former John Ash & Co. chef brings Wine Country dining to breakfast. Don’t miss their chilaquiles, Southern-inspired biscuits and gravy, sticky bun French toast and cheese blintzes with lemon curd. Lines can get long on weekends, so put on your patient hat — it’s sooooo worth the wait. 2901 Fourth St., 707-546-6317, jeffreyshillsidecafe.com
Criminal Baking Co: You can smell the buttery goodness even before you head inside. Sinful Sandos are a must, as is the Fun Guy, with mushrooms, bacon, spinach, goat cheese, basil and arugula pesto, lemon curd and a baked egg. Plus, burritos, granola, quiche and daily pastries. Owner Dawn Zaft and her team also make plenty of gluten-free bagels and vegan pastries. 808 Donahue St., 707-888-3546, criminalbakingcompany.com
Americana:Farm-to-table breakfasts from the owners of Estero Cafe in Valley Ford — all day! Top-notch dishes include fried chicken with country gravy, omelets, a lovely breakfast sandwich with Estero Gold cheese on a fresh ciabatta, yogurt parfait and pancakes with tasty fresh strawberry mimosas. Find them in Sebastopol (162 N. Main St.) as well. 205 Fifth St., 707-755-1548, americanasonomacounty.com
Yogurt parfait is on the Early Bird menu at Americana in Sebastopol and Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)Chilaquiles at Chila-Killer Cafe in Rohnert Park. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Sarmentine:Brunch with a French accent includes salmon-laden croissants with hollandaise, a side of gratin potatoes that put home fries to shame and bread pudding in a pool of crème anglaise. You’ll also want to leave with a fresh baguette and croissants for dinner. 840 Petaluma Blvd. N., 707-623-9595, sarmentine.com
Sax’s Joint: Giant cinnamon rolls and pancakes the size of a small hubcap are the signatures of this 1950s-style café. Run by sassy sisters, it’s raucous fun but can be hectic on weekends. 317 Petaluma Ave., 707-559-3021, saxsjoint.com
Fried chicken and waffles at Sax’s Joint in Petaluma. (Chris Hardy/for Sonoma Magazine)Nutella cornetto filled with the creamy chocolate and hazelnut spread, drizzled with chocolate ganache, and topped with whole toasted hazelnuts, at Stellina Pronto in Petaluma. (Courtesy Stellina Pronto)
Stellina Pronto: Trying to order a pastry or two at this Italian bakery is futile. You will leave with thousands of calories more than you planned, and that’s absolutely OK. They are that good. Kouign-amann (caramelized, laminated pastries filled with fruit curd) and weekend cinnamon rolls with cream cheese frosting are top picks, but grab at least one cream puff, a Nutella cornetto and a slice of frittata. 23 Kentucky St., 707-789-9556, stellinapronto.com
Sonoma
Baker and Cook: Fresh buttermilk biscuits and sausage gravy are legendary at this Boyes Hot Springs café. Originating in 19th-century lumberjack camps, this gut-stuffing breakfast warms the heart and fills the belly for a long day of timbering — or couch rotting. A side salad makes the whole thing almost healthy. 18812 Highway 12, 707-938-7329, bakerandcooksonoma.com
Sebastopol
Wild Poppy: The rambling outdoor patio of this family-owned Sebastopol restaurant is the place to be on sunny summer days. The Cosmic Queso with vegan cheese is a favorite, and vegetarians will find plenty of options here. A mix of housemade pastries, including scones, focaccia and Anya’s chocolate chip cookies are ideal companions for a day at the beach or an afternoon snack. 9890 Bodega Highway, 707-503-6332, thewildpoppycafe.com
Cookies, scones and other baked items from the The Wild Poppy Cafe along the Bodega Highway west of Sebastopol Friday, May 3, 2024 (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Shakshuka — a Middle Eastern dish of poached egg, zesty tomato sauce, onions and a side of hummus and puffy pita bread — at Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen in Monte Rio. (Daniel Beck/Sonoma County Tourism)
Monte Rio
Lightwave Coffee & Kitchen: Follow the signs to the Monte Rio skate park, where you’ll find a curious walk-up café. You’ll want to order the warming breakfast shakshuka with tomato-y eggs and whatever pie is on the menu. 9725 Main St., 707-865-5169, lightwavecafe.square.site
Valley Ford
Estero Café: The “classic American farm-to-table” menu has made it a popular stop for diners headed to the coast. Serving locally sourced breakfast and lunch daily, dishes like chicken-fried Stemple Creek Ranch steak with country gravy and greens, Dungeness crab roll and King trumpet mushroom melt with Estero Gold cheese are local favorites. 14450 Highway 1, 707-876-3333, esterocafe.com
Healdsburg
Acorn Cafe: This cute-as-a-bug morning stop is staking a syrup-soaked claim on Healdsburg’s breakfast void with its over-the-top menu. Best bets are tiramisu French toast, a brown butter hollandaise Benedict and quite possibly the world’s most inspired fried chicken sandwich. A tasty low and no-alcohol and cocktail menu and wine list create a Sunday brunch feel even on weekday mornings. 124 Matheson St., 707-955-7001, acornhealdsburg.com
Tiramisu French toast with whipped mascarpone, Raspberry, coffee ice cream and cocoa nibs on Goguette brioche and a Berry Bliss smoothie from the Acorn Cafe Thursday, October 3, 2024 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Varieties of croissants available at Quail & Condor bakery Monday, Jan. 6, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Quail and Condor:Noted by The New York Times and the James Beard Foundation, this outstanding bakery is a must-try. Crisp, flaky croissants that are second-to-none with seasonal flavors include chocolate pumpkin, along with ongoing classics like almond, chocolate and plain. 149 Healdsburg Ave., 707-473-8254, quailandcondor.com
Parish Café: Best known for its Louisiana-style shrimp and grits, beignets and po’boys, Parish has a Southern-style breakfast with its standards (yes, you can eat shrimp and grits for breakfast) as well as bananas Foster French toast and a Benedict with fried Gulf shrimp and Tasso ham. Chicory coffee is a staple. 60A Mill St., 707-431-8474, theparishcafe.com
Cloverdale
Rockin’ A Adventure Café: You won’t find much food, but the thrill of choosing your drink adventure at this oddball coffee drive-thru is a lot more fun. Start with a base of coffee, matcha, chai tea or Red Bull, then add one of 40 different syrups. Clearly, they’re not breaking any new beverage ground, but the wacky shack and endless choices make it a great stop on your commute. 313 S. Cloverdale Blvd., Facebook.com/RockinAadventureCafe
The Villa at Bartholomew Estate in Sonoma is a reproduction of the original Haraszthy Villa. (Bartholomew Estate Winery)
Those who’ve visited Sonoma’s historic Buena Vista Winery may not realize that neighboring Bartholomew Estate winery was once part of the same property. Today, the expansive estate has an identity all its own, yet it remains steeped in Sonoma Valley history.
The story
Bartholomew Estate’s colorful past stretches back to 1823, when Mission Solano de Sonoma planted vines at the site for sacramental wines. In the century to follow, the property assumed an array of fascinating identities, from pioneering Buena Vista Winery founder Agoston Haraszthy’s vineyard estate to a private country compound with its own 40-room “castle” to a state-owned rehab farm for “delinquent women.”
In 1943, war correspondent Frank “Bart” Bartholomew bought the abandoned property for $17,500 as a gift for his wife Antonia. Discovering remnants of old vines and winery ruins, the couple revived Buena Vista’s legacy with the help of legendary winemaker André Tchelistcheff. The Bartholomews later sold Buena Vista but kept 375 acres as their private estate.
The sun rises over the vineyards at Bartholomew Estate in Sonoma. The Sonoma Valley estate includes 22 combined acres of Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. (Bartholomew Estate Winery)
The ranch’s latest incarnation launched in 2019, when the Frank H. Bartholomew Foundation — created in 1980 to preserve the property and its history — teamed up with winemaker Kevin Holt to open Bartholomew Estate Winery. Today, the Sonoma Valley estate includes 22 combined acres of Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.
The vibe
Bartholomew Estate looks a lot like a park — because it is one. Driving through the woodsy property to reach the winery, you’re likely to pass locals walking their dogs along its meandering paths or cyclists getting in a morning ride. Though the estate is privately owned, its pup-friendly hiking trails and picnic areas are open to the public free of charge.
The former inmate hospital for the “delinquent” women’s farm, built in 1922, now houses the winery tasting room. It’s not nearly as creepy as that sounds. The space is warm and cheerful, with a gallery room that features a rotating display of work by local artists.
The Bartholomew Estate tasting room is warm and cheerful. A gallery room features a rotating display of work by local artists. (Bartholomew Estate Winery)The serene Oak Knoll tasting terrace at Sonoma’s Bartholomew Estate is ideal for outdoor sipping. California live oaks shade various seating areas. (Bartholomew Estate Winery)
Bartholomew Estate’s setting is ideal for outdoor sipping, especially on the serene Oak Knoll tasting terrace, open April through September. Set among the trees and overlooking a lovely Sauvignon Blanc vineyard, it includes seating areas shaded by California live oaks. It’s hard to imagine you’re just a five-minute drive from the Sonoma Plaza.
On the palate
Bartholomew Estate makes many of its wines from grapes grown on the property, along with vineyards in the surrounding area. The 2022 Marsanne-Rousanne ($38) is a standout, with its floral aromas, peachy flavor and zingy lime notes. (The soon-to-be-released 2023 vintage won a Best of Class award at the 2025 Press Democrat North Coast Wine Challenge, and as a judge in this year’s competition, I can attest to its deliciousness.) The 2022 Press Release — another Best of Class winner — is a mixed berry pie of a wine made with Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. The 2022 Wildcat Mountain Pinot Noir ($65) is all about cherries, accented with baking spices. Wines are sold only in the tasting room or online, and all earnings go toward maintaining the property and park.
A mezze platter from Sonoma’s Spread Kitchen at Bartholomew Estate in Sonoma. (Michelle Hogan)
Tastings range from $45-$55 for the Estate Wine Tasting to $75 for the Wine Tasting Flight + Mediterranean Mezze Delights, which includes a colorful platter of Middle Eastern snacks from Sonoma’s Spread Kitchen.
Beyond the bottle
Plan to explore Bartholomew Estate’s 3 miles of public hiking trails, set among mature oaks, madrones, redwoods and vineyards. Bring a picnic and a bottle of the winery’s crisp Sauvignon Blanc or rosé to sip with your portable feast. You can also book horseback tours through Sonoma Valley Trail Rides ($150-$170) or join a nature therapy guide for an immersive “forest bathing” session that ends with a seated wine tasting ($150).
Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.
