Our Dining Editor’s Secret Santa Rosa Restaurant Favorites

Crab cakes and seared steak with sides of fries, salad and coleslaw from the dinner menu at Americana in Santa Rosa, April 13, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

People ask me about my favorite Sonoma County restaurants daily — and it still throws me. I freeze for a minute while the mental Rolodex fires up, get nervous about what stupid answer I might give, forget what we were talking about and dive into a missive on the latest restaurant. That’s a work question, loaded with qualifications and tangents.

No one asks about the restaurants I go to when I’m not working. The restaurants where I have a standing order, go with friends or take my family. As a Santa Rosa resident, I have my favorites and personal “Best Of” list. These aren’t the Michelin haunts, just everyday hometown picks I return to again and again.

Pizza: NY Pie

When it reopened in August, NY Pie had me at the hand-tossed crust and housemade Ranch dressing. New owners Doug Lyons and Freddie Peña did New Yorkers proud with their hand-tossed pizzas and giant cheese slices for $5.25. Though there are some gussied up pies in the lineup, mostly they’re Friday night noshers with beer and Netflix. 65 Brookwood Ave., 707-526-9743, nypie.pizza

Happy Hour: Belly Left Coast Kitchen & Taproom

Park yourself in the outside parklet and enjoy the sights and sounds of Fourth Street before dark. Happy hour margaritas and Moscow mules are $10, and I’m a frequent flyer on the elote skillet with street corn and tortilla chips for $9. 534 Fourth St., 707-526-5787, bellyleftcoastkitchenandtaproom.com

L’oro di Napoli Italian restaurant in Santa Rosa
The enormous Lasagna with a Stagionale salad of arugula, roasted butternut squash puree, sliced almonds., topped with pecorino cheese, in an orange mustard and Extra Virgin Olive Oil dressing from L’oro di Napoli in downtown Santa Rosa March 24, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Italian: L’Oro di Napoli

Their Neopolitan-style pizzas have thin centers and signature charred crusts that need little more than a few toppings, and the margherita is a winner. I come for the deep-dish lasagna with layer after layer of thick pasta, Bolognese, Béchamel and San Marzano tomato sauce. Sitting upstairs is cozy and intimate, perfect for a date night. 629 Fourth St., 707-541-6394, lorodinapolisantarosa.com

Mexican: Sebastopol Road, Roseland

I’m all for neighborhood taquerias, but if you want real tlyuda, quesabirria, tacos, churros, chamoy and elote, you need to explore this Roseland thoroughfare. You’ll get many opinions about the best stuff, but I’m a fan of La Texanita, La Fondita, El Roy’s and Gio y Los Magos.

Pub Food: Goose and Fern

Where else can you get shepherd’s pie, sausage rolls or bangers and mash with a side of curry sauce? Fun and friendly with excellent food. 116 Fifth St., 707-843-4235, thegooseandfern.com

J & M’s Midtown Café in Santa Rosa
Meiomei Chardonnay with House-Smoked Salmon Latkes Benedict from the new J & M’s Midtown Café Oct. 23, 2023, in Santa Rosa. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Breakfast: J & M’s Midtown Cafe

The Hollandaise. Bella Rosa coffee. Chilaquiles. Diner food with a chef’s touch. 1422 Fourth St., 707-545-2233, jm-midtowncafe.com

Brunch: Americana

It’s everything right with America — fried chicken, country gravy, eggs and home fries piled onto a plate. God bless the USA. 205 Fifth St., 707-755-1548, americanasonomacounty.com

Lunch: Zoftig

I promise myself I’ll get something other than the falafel wrap, but cave at the last moment. It somehow feels filling and healthy at the same time because, hey, it has hummus and vegetables and tahini sauce. 57 Montgomery Drive, 707-521-9554, zoftigeatery.com

Augie’s French restaurant in Santa Rosa, Sonoma County
Beef Cheek Bourguignon with classic garni and pommes purée from Augie’s French Tuesday, Nov. 28, 2023 on Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Special Occasion: Augie’s

Classy yet casual, this downtown French bistro just ticks all the boxes. Luxe décor, warm baguettes, refined cocktails and continental classics like Boeuf Bourguignon. 535 Fourth St., 707-531-4400, augiesfrench.com

Coffee: Brew Coffee, Tea and Beer

I always find new art, health concoctions, coffee drinks and hard ciders at this neighborhood gathering spot. The Rainbow Toast is my go-to; my only complaint is that the best seats get snapped up early. 555 Healdsburg Ave., 707-303-7372, brewcoffeeandbeer.com

Burger: Superburger

The fancy-pantsy restaurant burgers are great, but this is my go-to for a down-and-delish fat patty with all the fixins. Great chocolate malts and tater tots seal the deal. 1501 Fourth St., 707-546-4016, originalsuperburger.com

Marla Bakery in Santa Rosa, Sonoma County
The Crebble: croissant dough rolled in maple sugar and sea salt from Marla SR Bakery and Cafe Nov. 16, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Bakery: Marla

Crebbles (knotted croissant dough baked with maple sugar and sea salt) were my gateway drug to the Santa Rosa cafe. Then came the dark chocolate brownies, baguettes, walnut boules and chai lattes to hook me. Now Fried Chicken Frydays, pop-up pizza parties, seasonal dinners and the promise of chicken shawarma keep me coming back. 208 Davis St., 707-852-4091, marlabakery.com

Deli: Grossman’s

The closest you’ll come to a proper Jewish deli in Sonoma County. Bagels, bread and babka are baked in-house (the cheesy Khachapuri bread is a fave), and the sabich board with fried eggplant, falafel, pickled cabbage and piles of other Middle Eastern-inspired dips and sauces come with still-hot pita bread. 308 Wilson St., 707-595-7707, grossmanssr.com

Brewery: Cooperage

An ever-changing lineup of food trucks, my favorite sour beers (and beer slushies), trivia nights and incredible murals. Save me a seat. 981 Airway Court, Suite G, 707-293-9787, cooperagebrewing.com

Sushi: Kiraku

Nothing too fancy, but where I go for California rolls, veggie tempura and tonkatsu ramen with a girlfriend. Robot servers and race car sushi delivery are adorable. 1985 Mendocino Ave., 707-800-7699, kirakullc.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Where To Sip Wine in Downtown Santa Rosa Right Now

The spacious lobby at Hotel E beckons visitors and guests to relax and sample wines at the Enology Wine Lounge on the main floor of 37 Old Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Hotel E)

Downtown Santa Rosa is in the heart of Sonoma Wine Country, yet until 2012, wine lovers couldn’t find a tasting room there. That’s the year city zoning regulations finally changed, and Ancient Oak Cellars was able to open a small space inside Corrick’s Stationery Store on Fourth Street.

That tasting room is long gone (the winery continues to produce wine), and it can still be a challenge to find wine lounges in the area anchored by Historic Railroad Square and Old Courthouse Square.

But if you know where to go, flights of fanciful wines can be sampled. As an added bonus, these tasting rooms are all within walking distance, so no driving arrangements are needed.

Just double check tasting prices and hours while making arrangements — as those tend to change.

Wine from Stonemason Cellars Santa Rosa
For a reasonable $30, you get five wines, each paired with an array of nibbles that might include chocolate blueberries with a HammerTime Red Wine Blend, and Skazka black sturgeon caviar with a sparkling cuvée at Santa Rosa’s Stonemason Cellars. (Courtesy of Stonemason Cellars)
Stonemason Cellars wine tasting lounge Santa Rosa
The Stonemason Cellars brick building is tucked on the corner of Davis and Fifth streets a few blocks from Santa Rosa’s Historic Railroad Square. (Courtesy of Stonemason Cellars)

Stonemason Cellars

Seek out the brick building tucked on the corner of Davis and Fifth streets a few blocks from Historic Railroad Square, and you’ll find a new, slate rock trimmed tasting room with a couple of nice surprises awaiting.

First, for a reasonable $30, you get five wines, each paired with an array of nibbles that might include chocolate blueberries with a Hammer Time Red Wine Blend, and Skazka black sturgeon caviar with a sparkling cuvée.

Second, Stonemason is open until 7 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and until 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday, which is late by tasting room standards.

Husband-and-wife team Timothy “T.J.” and Francesca Elam launched their label in 2019, then debuted their tasting space late last year. Working with French-born winemaker Maxime Gautier, the Elams focus on small-batch — as few as four barrels — Sonoma County reds. But they also craft a light, tropical “Elevate” blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, plus an elegant, Provence-style Russian River Valley Rosé.

390 Davis St., Santa Rosa, 707-239-8834, stonemasoncellars.com

4th Street Cellars in Santa Rosa
4th Street Cellars in downtown Santa Rosa’s historic Railroad Square on Sept. 26, 2024. (Maci Martell / Sonoma Magazine)

4th Street Cellars

This fashionable, two-story party place, mere steps from Railroad Square, beckons with late hours including live music until 8 p.m. on Thursdays, and 9 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

You can kick back in the restored, century-old salon and navigate an array of wines in front of a gas fireplace, or sip on the patio with a BYOB picnic (tip: Jackson’s Bar and Oven on the corner fires up top-notch wood oven pizzas for takeout).

Lounge owner and third generation grower-winemaker John Bambury features his Bonneau, Egret and Opal Moon labels, ranging from familiar Sonoma County red and white varietals to a plush Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Make sure to ask about the steely dry 2019 Los Carneros Bonneau Blanc de Blanc done in the méthode champenoise style and aged for four years.

127 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707- 806-2779, 4thstcellars.com

While not technically a tasting room, Wilibees Wine & Spirits checks the boxes with  wine flights, fancy sandwiches, cheeseboards and charcuterie. (Courtesy of Wilibees Wine & Spirits)
While not technically a tasting room, Wilibees Wine & Spirits checks the boxes with $20 wine flights, fancy sandwiches, cheeseboards and charcuterie. (Courtesy of Wilibees Wine & Spirits)

Wilibees Wines & Spirits

Ok, it’s not technically a tasting room, but the retail store, wine bar and gourmet deli checks the boxes with $20 wine flights, each tempting with four pours in themed varietals of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and “others.” Pinkies in the air, too, for the $35 sparkling flight of three French and Northern California bubblies.

You can also savor 30-plus local and global wines by the glass, and if you get there between 4 and 6 p.m. daily, you’ll find a featured red and white happy hour steal at just $5 a glass.

Make a meal of your visit. You can grab a bottle from the amply laden shelves, and for a $5 corkage fee, enjoy it alongside fancy sandwiches (the prosciutto, Brie, fig jam and farmer’s greens is excellent), salads (like a toss of greens, cucumber, tomato, red onion, chickpeas, olives, goat cheese and lemon juice), or flatbreads (go for the mouthwatering warm pastrami, Swiss, pepperoncini and spicy mayo combo).

Partner-owners Vikram Badhan and Gagan Boparai also send out boutique-local cheese boards, and a Journeyman Healdsburg charcuterie board laden with indulgently spiced (and some wine-kissed) salami.

700 Third St., Santa Rosa, 707-978-3779, wilibees.com

The spacious lobby at Hotel E beckons visitors and guests to relax and sample wines at the Enology Wine Lounge on the main floor of 37 Old Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Hotel E)
The spacious lobby at Hotel E beckons visitors and guests to relax and sample wines at the Enology Wine Lounge on the main floor of 37 Old Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Hotel E)

Enology Wine Lounge

The lobby wine bar in Hotel E overlooking Old Courthouse Square is kind of loosey-goosey. Much of the menu is from the Wilson Artisan Wines collection, with some other purveyors dappled in. But then, Wilson does operate 11 facilities across Sonoma and Mendocino counties, so you’ll probably find something you like. Just know you can’t see the wine list until you show up, since front desk agents confirm it does not exist online.

But roll the dice, and take a painless peek by going during happy hour from 5 to 7 p.m., featuring complimentary tastings. Happy hour is daily, though that, too, is subject to change — and isn’t the adventure part of the fun of exploring wine?

37 Old Courthouse Square, Santa Rosa, 707-481-3750, hotelesantarosa.com

Sonoma County Named Among Top Places To Go In 2024. Here’s Why

Bodega Head in Sonoma Coast State Park. (Mariah Harkey/Sonoma County Tourism)

Earlier this summer, Travel + Leisure highlighted Sonoma County as a top travel destination in California — not just for its wine, but for its beauty and charm.

While the article noted that the county boasts “some of the country’s best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay,” it looked more to its rich history and landmarks, 55-plus miles of pristine coastline and ecologically diverse inland landscapes.

Many Sonoma County towns are known for their early settler history and old-school Americana vibes. From the 19th-century Spanish missions dotting the town of Sonoma, the birthplace of the state’s “bear flag,” to the quaint, historic businesses in downtown Petaluma that look like something out of a Norman Rockwell painting.

Petaluma Sonoma County travel destination
Salute to American Graffiti, Petaluma’s annual tribute to classic cars and cruisin’ the Boulevard, returned on Saturday, May 18, 2024, to the historic downtown. The event delighted car-culture fans and casual onlookers alike. (Scott Hess/for the Argus-Courier)

These charming old buildings explain why the county has long been a place for Hollywood to camp out and film for period pieces like “American Graffiti” and “Peggy Sue Got Married.” Not to mention the dazzling shots of local rivers, forests, vineyards and coastal areas seen in such films as “The Birds,” “The Goonies” and “Bottle Shock,” among many others.

The Travel + Leisure article also points to the “many small, friendly towns” that may be lesser known nationally, like artsy Sebastopol, “bucolic culinary destination Glen Ellen” and “architecturally significant ’60s-era Sea Ranch.”

The Sebastopol Center for the Arts runs the beloved annual Sonoma County Art Trails. Sebastopol is also home to whimsical “junk artist” Patrick Amiot and his avenue of saved-from-the-landfill, repurposed artwork.

Patrick Amiot's distinctive sculptures decorate Florence Avenue in Sebastopol. (Rebecca Chotkowski)
Patrick Amiot’s distinctive sculptures decorate Florence Avenue in Sebastopol. (Rebecca Chotkowski)
Margherita Pizza served at Glen Ellen Star in Glen Ellen. (Crista Jeremiason/The Press Democrat)
Margherita Pizza served at Glen Ellen Star in Glen Ellen. (Crista Jeremiason/The Press Democrat)

Glen Ellen is home to Michelin-starred Glen Ellen Star, as well as other acclaimed eateries like Les Pascals, The Fig Cafe and The Mill at Glen Ellen. Of course, culinary delights can be found all over the county, which has nine restaurants with either a Michelin star or Bib Gourmand status. Healdsburg’s upscale SingleThread (which the travel article also notes) is the only county establishment with three Michelin stars.

The best time of year to visit the beautiful, culinary hotspot of Sonoma County — by way of the Charles M. Schulz–Sonoma County Airport, the Travel + Leisure article suggests — is during the colorful harvest season in fall. Though the mustard season of spring makes for great photos, and the local beaches offer cool respite during summer.

Among the places to stay, the travel article recommends Forestville’s Farmhouse Inn (which has an impressive restaurant), Montage Healdsburg, Harmon Guest House, The Lodge at Sonoma Resort and The Sea Ranch Lodge.

Rustic outdoor dining
Lunch patrons enjoy a magnificent view of vineyards, flowers and hillsides at Rustic at Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville. The restaurant has won Best Outdoor Dining in Sonoma County. Sept. 15, 2017. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

Out of over 400 wineries in the county, the travel article highlights Gundlach Bundschu in Sonoma, Vérité Winery in Healdsburg, Bricoleur Vineyards in Windsor and Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville, among others.

Looking for more places to sip, eat, play and stay in Sonoma County?

Our dining editor rounded up the best local foodie destinations, and the Sonoma Magazine staff pulled together the best winery tasting rooms. Hike amid towering redwoods and sweeping valleys at some of the county’s best hiking trails, or simply take in the spectacular views from local winery terraces. All out of ideas and need a last-minute plan for the weekend? We have that covered, too.

Travel + Leisure Names Elk in Mendocino ‘America’s Best Small Food and Wine Town’

The historic Harbor House Inn in Elk was built in 1916 and updated this year with a $10 million remodel. Guests can relax on the dinning room deck with stunning views of the sea stacks and their caves. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The picturesque town of Mendocino has long been considered a top-spot for an idyllic coastal getaway, but when was the last time you took a left on Highway 1 at the Navarro River Bridge and visited Elk?

If you have to stop and think about it, it’s time to get a trip on the calendar.

Too often overlooked by travelers making a beeline to the village of Mendocino, Elk was recently featured on Travel + Leisure’s website as a destination “making a name for itself in the food and wine world.”

Journalist Evie Carrick wrote about the community’s driftwood-strewn Greenwood State Beach, the noteworthy restaurants and charming places to stay in her Sept. 5 travel article.

Elk street sign, Mendocino County
The tiny town of Elk is located along Highway 1 in Mendocino County. (Courtesy of Dana Rebmann)

Visitors come from around the world to play in our beautiful Northern California backyard — stories like this are a good reminder that lucky residents should be taking advantage and doing the same.

Elk is tiny. A road sign along Highway 1 puts its population at 250, but locals have doubted the accuracy of the seemingly high number, jokingly questioning where all those folks live. If you blink while driving through the coastal enclave, you might miss its timeless charm. But if you park the car and go for a stroll, the town has a way of winning you over.

The story highlights new businesses making a name for themselves alongside community fixtures in Elk, like The Harbor House Inn. And car rental site Sixt recently ranked the inn as the No. 1 foodie getaway on its list of top Michelin-star restaurants worth the drive.

Built in 1916, the coastal property reopened in 2018 after an eight-year restoration. The 11-room Harbor House Inn is home to the first and only two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Mendocino County. Chef Matthew Kammerer’s tasting menus are seafood focused and hyperlocal. A majority of the produce on the menu is grown at the inn’s offsite farm. Ranch hands also raise cattle, goats and chickens.

Summer squash, green garlic, preserved lemon and fava from chef Matt Kammerer at the Harbor House Inn in Elk along the Mendocino coast. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Summer squash, green garlic, preserved lemon and fava from chef Matt Kammerer at the Harbor House Inn in Elk along the Mendocino coast. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
room at Sacred Rock Inn in Elk
A guestroom at Elk’s Sacred Rock Inn, formerly The Griffin House and The Greenwood Pier Inn. (Courtesy of Jesse Cudworth)

Minutes down the road, Sacred Rock Inn is the newcomer in town. Formerly The Griffin House and The Greenwood Pier Inn, there are 19 accommodations ranging from a stand-alone Victorian home with four bedrooms, to suites with private decks overlooking the ocean, to pet-friendly garden cottages.

Executive chef Ryan Seal oversees the pair of restaurants at Sacred Rock Inn. Open for dinner only, Greenwood Restaurant offers an upscale dining experience Friday through Tuesday. Selections might include Mexican Street Corn Pasta and Mendocino Black Cod. Elk House offers a more casual experience for breakfast and lunch. We recommend the Reuben Grilled Sausage Roll and spicy michelada.

It’s easy to happily lose a day on secluded Greenwood State Beach. Janky driftwood shacks compete with the rolling surf for your eyes’ attention. Dogs on leash are welcome to put their paws in the sand here. There’s also a charger for electric vehicles at the beach entrance.

Greenwood State Beach in Elk, Mendocino County
Greenwood State Beach in Elk. (Courtesy of Dana Rebmann)

Grab supplies for a picnic from The Elk Store; the deli offers hot and cold sandwiches, as well as craft beer and wine. From there it’s just a few steps to Matson Mercantile and the Artists’ Collective in Elk. If you visit on a weekend, pop into the Greenwood State Visitor Center Museum. The former post office now houses local artifacts and information on the history of Elk.

Wine enthusiasts looking to find a new favorite can make the 30- to 40-minute drive to Anderson Valley for a plethora of tasting options at wineries, including Pennyroyal Farm, Foursight Wines and Navarro Vineyards.

Northern California is on a roll as a travel destination. Two Sonoma County locales — Sonoma and Healdsburg — recently snagged spots, No. 1 and No. 10 respectively, on coupon code website Wethrift’s recently released top 10 U.S. cities that offer luxury experiences at an affordable price.

Travel + Leisure magazine also included Sonoma County on its coveted international list of “The 50 Best Places to Travel in 2024.” And last November, The New York Times shined the spotlight on Geyserville.

Click through the above gallery to see some of the Elk businesses featured in the most recent Travel + Leisure article.

Two New Restaurants To Check Out in Sonoma County

Sonoma Beef Burger with onion rings, fried chicken burger, chili fries and Cajun fries from Acme Burger. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Petaluma’s second Acme Burger restaurant has opened and there’s a surprise menu item only available at the Sonoma Mountain Parkway location — pizza!

The 10-inch pies are a DIY affair with red, pesto or Bechamel sauce and the usual toppings, including pepperoni, Italian sausage and Acme’s meatballs.

701 Sonoma Mountain Pkwy., Petaluma, 707-665-5012, acmeburgerco.com

Acme Burger restaurant Cotati Sonoma County
Sonoma Beef Burger with onion rings, fried chicken burger, chili fries and Cajun fries at Acme Burger in Cotati. (Heather Irwin/PD)

Khao Soi Thai Zen is now open at 1169 Yulupa Ave. in Santa Rosa. The hotly-anticipated restaurant serves a mix of Thai, Japanese and Chinese dishes.

What’s got our attention: Tom Kha and Tom Yum hot pot soup and Khao Soi, a yellow curry with fried noodles, pickled mustard leaves and steamed egg noodles. Details at khaosoithaizensantarosa.com.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Healdsburg’s Arandas Chef Moves on to New Role

Ostiones (oysters) with mango leche de tigre, burnt scallion oil and borage blossoms from Arandas Friday, June 28, 2024 in Healdsburg. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Former ‘MasterChef’ contestant Adrien Nieto, the opening chef of Healdsburg’s Arandas restaurant, is transitioning from his lead role in the kitchen to the head of winery culinary operations at Foley Entertainment Group.

Healdsburg's Arandas Chef Adrien Nieto
Executive chef Adrien Nieto of Arandas on Friday, June 28, 2024, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The upscale Mexican restaurant, which opened in July in the former Chalkboard space inside Hotel Les Mars, is part of entrepreneur Bill Foley’s business portfolio, which includes Healdsburg’s Goodnight’s Steakhouse, The Farmhouse Inn restaurant in Forestville, sports venues, the Vegas Golden Nights hockey team and nearly 30 vineyards and wineries.

Arandas chef de cuisine, Felipe Hurtado, will now head kitchen operations.

29 North St., Healdsburg, 707-473-8030, arandashealdsburg.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Cyrus Chef Doug Keane Brings the Heat to His New Book

During a family and friends pre-opening night, Chef Doug Keane works the kitchen at Cyrus in Geyserville. (Chad Surmick/The Press Democrat)

Chef Doug Keane once told me he would name names if he ever wrote a book. Soon, we’ll know, as the Top Chef Masters’ winner, owner of Michelin-starred Cyrus restaurant and occasional provocateur prepares for the launch of his memoir “Culinary Leverage: A Journey Through The Heat.”

Keane recently invited his social media followers to vote on a potential cover image for the book, which will hit shelves in February next year.

Keane’s book takes a sobering look at the dysfunction of the culinary industry and his efforts to create a healthier, more sustainable work model.

Chef Doug Keane
During a family and friends pre-opening night, guests enjoy the Kitchen Table while chatting with chef Doug Keane at Cyrus in Geyserville on Thursday Sept. 8, 2022. (Chad Surmick / Press Democrat)

When Keane reopened Cyrus in Geyserville in 2022, a decade after closing his original Michelin-starred restaurant in Healdsburg, he implemented an audacious plan to provide a living wage to staff, who share tips and roles throughout each shift — a server may be helping in the kitchen or a cook bringing plates to the table.

“It’s really exciting yet at the same time surreal and a tad scary to have this very deep window into me out there,” Keane said about his memoir. “I’m hoping it has a positive impact on the hospitality industry that needs more compassion and thought about the model. I also hope it allows people to keep moving forward through personal and professional struggle.”

You can vote on the book cover at koehlerbooks.com/cover-polls/culinary-leverage.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Rustic Healdsburg Home Roots Local Winemaker and Designer in Nature

Winemaker Scot Bilbro and architectural designer Lisa Steinkamp’s Healdsburg home. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)

A deep-rooted connection to the landscape marks the rustic home of architectural designer Lisa Steinkamp and winemaker Scot Bilbro. On 5 rural acres in Healdsburg (“but just two minutes from Big John’s Market,” Lisa says), the couple and their son live in a simple, barnlike structure with broad connections to the outdoors from nearly every room.

“The thing we’ve always loved about this property is no matter where you are on it, whichever structure you’re in, you’re just looking at more wilderness,” says Scot. “It feels like you’re on a much, much bigger property than you are.”

The couple, who met in the early 2000s, were living in downtown Healdsburg in 2013 and had been looking for rural land for several years when Lisa got a tip from an old friend that the property was for sale. Though the outbuildings were in rough condition and overgrown with brambles, they could see the contours of the land held a beautiful shape, overlooking a sweeping view of a pond populated with herons, turtles and other wildlife.

“I was just itching to be able to walk out onto some meadow, to have some larger confines around us,” says Scot.

Winemaker Scot Bilbro and architectural designer Lisa Steinkamp at rustic Healdsburg home
Winemaker Scot Bilbro and architectural designer Lisa Steinkamp enjoy a meal with their son, Booker, outside their Healdsburg home. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)

He and Lisa designed the home together and undertook much of the construction themselves. They endlessly discussed the framing of the view through the antique windows they’d found, accumulating repurposed doors and redwood siding — even teaching themselves how to use SketchUp to draw their plans. Lisa envisioned a classic California indoor-outdoor home with pocket gardens and living spaces that blurred the distinction between inside and out.

“The thought process was to create a very small envelope of curated space around the house,” she explains. “It’s very clean, intentional. It was important not to have an immaculate garden space, but to feel like we were living in nature.”

Downstairs is one large room with separate spaces for living, dining, lounging and cooking. There’s a single bathroom that the entire family uses, and a bedroom for their son, as well as multiple sets of doors with views out to the pond and fields.

Scot and Lisa’s room is upstairs, reached via a set of stainless-steel scaffolding Scot repurposed from his winery. They’re the type of stairs more commonly used to access the tops of wine tanks during fermentation.

Stainless steel winery scaffolding leads to the upstairs sleeping space. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
Stainless steel winery scaffolding leads to the upstairs sleeping space. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)

The interior, including 25-foot-tall walls in the main living space, is clad entirely in gorgeous, inch-thick, foot-wide reclaimed redwood boards.

“We were almost finished, and Scot kept saying, ‘Hey, why don’t you sheetrock the walls,’” recalls Lisa. “And I said ‘I can’t. I can’t do it.’ I didn’t know what I was waiting for. But then I got a call from our wood guy, who had found some secret stash of barnwood sitting under a tarp somewhere. So I jumped in his truck and we got the wood, and that clad the entire space.”

Though built less than a decade ago, this is a storied home, one layered with a history and personality that reveal much about the family that built it. The living areas have wide comfy couches and lots of pillows for reading and nesting. Lisa is drawn to pieces with a background: a chandelier draped in fringe, opera costumes purchased for a song at a sample sale, handmade ceramics, an antique upright piano.

“The place is from the heart,” says Lisa. “It’s cozy — which is weird to say with 25-foot ceilings, you know.”

Winemaker Scot Bilbro and architectural designer Lisa Steinkamp at rustic Healdsburg home
Double-height ceilings in the main living space. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)

Their design decisions have been guided by a feeling of what is right for the home and the property, even if their choices seem unconventional or unusual.

“Our signal that we’re doing the right thing is whenever somebody says, ‘Why are you doing this?’ or ‘What do you see in this property?’” says Scot. “Basically, whenever someone tells us we’re crazy, we’re like, ‘Oh, we’re on the right track.’ Usually Lisa and I are totally in sync in terms of feeling there’s potential and magic in a place. And it’s all the better when nobody else can see it.”

The couple are proud to be passing along their creative values to their son, Booker,
who was just a toddler when they first moved to the property and is now 13 years old.

“We are doing a really good job of training our kid that used is good,” says Lisa. “In a world where fashion is in constant turnaround and quality has gone down and mountains of throwaway clothing are sent far across the ocean, he’s learning all that’s not necessary.”

Booker, who wants to be a pilot, spends his summers outside fishing for bass on the pond or tinkering with motorcycles and model airplanes. With a cheeky high-schooler’s sense of humor, he names all of the goslings on the pond Ryan. There’s a whole bevy of Ryan Goslings hatched each spring.

Winemaker Scot Bilbro at rustic Healdsburg home
Wide glass doors open to a patio, where Scot Bilbro watches his son, Booker, fish for bass in the pond. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)

“Booker’s exposure to all this has gotten us to the point where he’s the one who reminds us how to play outside. He gets us out on the lake, out on the paddleboard,” says Scot.

The family lives in tune with the seasons, throwing the doors wide open
each morning and eating outdoors on the patio most nights. Scot likes to grill whole fish or lamb, while Booker rolls out pasta from scratch. The three of them make big salads with produce grown in raised beds made from half-ton bins from the winery.

“Being in the wine industry, having every seasonal change mean something’s happening is really fun,” says Scot. “It makes you feel connected to your job and what’s going on and where you live in a different way.”

“I work really hard to be present. When you’re working in agriculture, you’re always looking ahead. There’s a similarity between working on projects at the house and growing grapes and making wine. You’re in the midst of a perpetual transformation — you’re watching the leaves come out, you’re watching the canopies. Suddenly there’s fruit, and suddenly again, it changes color, and then you’re in the cellar. I just think it’s an amazing process… It’s like one big choose-your-own-adventure story.”

Purple Passion: These Indie Winemaker Portraits Were Developed in Wine

Chris Christensen of Bodkin Wines. Photo developed in the 2022 Bodkin Light Skinned Zinfandel. (James Joiner/Sonoma Magazine)

Photographers have long experimented with developing black-and-white film in solutions of instant coffee, beer and other liquids — a time-honored and nontoxic alternative to traditional chemical processes.

Sonoma photographer James Joiner has now done the same with wine. He turned to longtime collaborator Ian Sullivan to help refine the method, and together they honed in on a process with red wine that worked not just well, but extremely well.

Joiner now has an ongoing partnership with Kodak to photograph the people he has come to know and admire in the wine world and develop the portraits in wines that hold meaning for the subjects, with the ultimate aim of releasing a book. Each portrait bears the mark of the winemaker via the subtle rosy glow from the wine in which it was developed.

Chris Christensen of Bodkin Wines in Sonoma County
Chris Christensen of Bodkin Wines. Photo developed in the 2022 Bodkin Light Skinned Zinfandel. (James Joiner/Sonoma Magazine)

Joiner’s interest in wine ignited in 2008 after meeting Sonoma winemaker Tony Coturri through a friend. Coturri offered him a bottle and, when Joiner declined, saying he didn’t really like to drink, Coturri poured him a glass anyway.

“Wine isn’t drinking, it’s stories in a bottle,” Coturri told him.

Something clicked, launching Joiner into an obsession with the stories of wine and the people who work with it.

“There’s a poetry in wine, and a poetry in analog photography,” Joiner explains. “So to be able to capture someone on film and have the actual light and energy from that split-second of exposure bond with the wine — it’s incredibly magical. The moment gets fused together forever inside the silver halide crystals that make up the black-and-white image. Plus, the process is completely nontoxic, which is important to me.”

“Sonoma is just… it’s an incredible spot,” says Joiner. “It’s been one of those rare places where you always seem to be in the right place at the right time, full of chance encounters and small-world moments.”

Rosalind Manoogian of Fog Crest Vineyard in Sebastopol
Rosalind Manoogian of Fog Crest Vineyard in Sebastopol. Photo developed in the 2018 Fog Crest Estate Pinot Noir. (James Joiner/Sonoma Magazine)

Rosalind Manoogian, Fog Crest Vineyard

“Shooting a proper portrait isn’t about just capturing someone’s likeness. That’s for driver’s licenses and passports. Portraits should speak to who the subject is and give insight into their character. To do this properly, most photographers have to learn to get out of the way and adapt to the situation.

Meeting Rosalind at her Fog Crest Vineyard estate tasting room, it immediately became clear that her elegance and confidence should take center stage. After shooting and talking with her for almost an hour, it was obvious she was as lyrical and complex as the Pinot Noir she produces. This shot — developed in a stunning 2018 Fog Crest Estate Pinot Noir — is more serious than some of the others. For that reason, it’s also one of my favorites. What’s that saying? ‘Fashion is fleeting, style is forever.’ Rosalind, and her wines, have style for miles.”

Hardy Wallace of Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah! in Sonoma
Hardy Wallace of Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah! in Sonoma. Photo developed in the 2022 Extradimensional Wine Co Yeah! Marvelous Mourvèdre. (James Joiner/Sonoma Magazine)

Hardy Wallace, Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah!

“This was taken the very first time I met Hardy, at his production facility in Kenwood. While his expressiveness and stoke is well documented, nothing prepares you for the ball of positivity that is Hardy in real life.

I shot this with a fish-eye lens because I love how the distortion makes him feel larger than life. Fun fact, this was taken moments after discovering we were born in the same hospital in Salem, Massachusetts. Developed in Hardy’s 2022 Extradimensional Wine Co Yeah! Marvelous Mourvèdre, a beautiful, playful wine that defies the varietal’s brooding stereotype.”

Katie Rouse and Corinne Rich of Birdhorse Wines
Katie Rouse and Corinne Rich of Birdhorse Wines. Photo developed in the 2021 Birdhorse Barbera. (James Joiner/Sonoma Magazine)

Katie Rouse and Corinne Rich, Birdhorse Wines

“One of my favorite things about these wine film portraits is forcing myself to make an expressive image in a place I’ve often never been with someone I don’t really know. To be fair, I’d worked with Katie a bit in her role as assistant winemaker at Bedrock Wine Co., where this was shot, but never Corrine.

The newlywed couple were a photographer’s dream, more than willing to go the extra mile, as evidenced by the frames of Katie hosing Corrine down — something she certainly didn’t mind on a 104-degree July day. Processed in their 2021 Birdhorse Barbera, a delicate wine whose high acid content paired perfectly with the duo’s playfulness and the frenetic energy of the images.”

Patrick Cappiello of Monte Rio Cellars
Patrick Cappiello of Monte Rio Cellars. Photo developed in the 2021 Monte Rio Cellars Zinfandel. (James Joiner/Sonoma Magazine)

Patrick Cappiello, Monte Rio Cellars

“I met Patrick before he was a winemaker, at his restaurant Pearl & Ash in New York City. He taught me how to saber Champagne with an iPhone for a story I was doing, and we stayed in touch. The way Patrick has willed himself into being a pivotal part of a new generation of winemakers always impresses me, as does his adherence to a DIY, punk-rock ethos.

The framing, film and super-wide lens make me think of classic early ’90s skate and hip-hop images, a vibe that works well for him. This was shot on Kodak Tri-X film and developed in Cappiello’s ebullient 2021 Monte Rio Cellars Zinfandel, which I think lent itself to the boldness of the images.”

Bibiana Gonzáles Rave of Cattleya Wines, Alma de Cattleya and Shared Notes
Bibiana Gonzáles Rave of Cattleya Wines, Alma de Cattleya and Shared Notes. Photo developed in the 2021 Cattleya ‘The Reward’ Syrah. (James Joiner/Sonoma Magazine)

Bibiana Gonzáles Rave, Cattleya Wines, Alma de Cattleya, Shared Notes

“Bibiana met me at her winery for the shoot but was so excited to hear that I loved coffee she rushed me to another part of the building to show off her single origin, female-farmed coffee company, all roasted in-house and sourced in her native Colombia. Her excitement is as palpable as her sophistication, whether discussing the nuance of coffee imports or the clones that go into her breathtaking farming-forward wines at Cattleya.

Quick to laugh and naturally gregarious, Bibiana made photographing her, much like enjoying her wines, almost too easy. Developed in her mind-blowing 2021 Cattleya ‘The Reward’ Syrah, a wine so special they only make a handful of cases. Fitting for a portrait of a winemaker of the same caliber.”

Chris Christensen of Bodkin Wines
Chris Christensen of Bodkin Wines. Photo developed in the 2022 Bodkin Light Skinned Zinfandel. (James Joiner/Sonoma Magazine)

Chris Christensen, Bodkin Wines

“When Chris rolled up to his Sebastopol winery and got out of his car with a vintage saber as big as his smile, I knew this was gonna be a fun one. Equal parts insightful, eccentric and hilarious, Chris is as effervescent as his sparkling wines, several of which he happily beheaded for our shoot.

We only went through one roll of film — 12 frames — and after developing them in his wonderfully autobiographically emoji-labeled 2022 Bodkin Light Skinned Zinfandel, I can say almost all of them rank among the favorites I’ve ever taken.”

Digital bonus: We’ve teamed up with photographer James Joiner and his friends at The Wine Makers podcast for a series of winemaker interviews in September. 

Sonoma Artist and Winemaker Finds Peace at Family Ranch Along the Russian River

The land that artist Alice Warnecke Sutro farms has been in her family for a century. (Liza Gershman/Sonoma Magazine)

Alice Warnecke Sutro has always looked to the land for inspiration. The rugged Warnecke Ranch, a 265-acre property in Sonoma’s Chalk Hill region with over a mile of frontage along the Russian River, has been in her family for six generations. The ranch is the place that feeds her soul, she says — the place where she can be the best version of herself.

“It’s why I manage the vineyard, make the wine and do the work. It’s all about the connection to the ranch.”

Growing up, the river was a peaceful place to swim and explore. Now, she takes her two children there to do the same. “It’s so beautiful down there. It’s imprinted in my mind as the most energizing place I can go.”

The scenery at Alice Warnecke Sutro and her family's Chalk Hill ranch in Sonoma, with over a mile of frontage along the Russian River. (Liza Gershman/Sonoma Magazine)
A scene of the Russian River near Alice Warnecke Sutro and her family’s Chalk Hill ranch in Sonoma. “It’s so beautiful down there,” she says. “It’s imprinted in my mind as the most energizing place I can go.” (Liza Gershman/Sonoma Magazine)

Alice — a grapegrower, winemaker and visual artist — studied art history at Stanford. She once held one of those student jobs that seem to only exist in the movies: maintaining works of art in the university’s outdoor sculpture garden. While soaping down a priceless Rodin bronze, she realized she was drawn to explore the places that had been home to the great artists she loved. Being able to touch and experience art in person was grounding to her artistic practice. Alice later lived and worked in Florence and Moscow before returning to the Bay Area’s California College of the Arts for a master’s degree in fine arts.

It was in graduate school that the young artist experienced a bit of a creative crisis. A professor had questioned aspects of her work, and she retreated to the family ranch to regroup. Alice found herself sitting on the ground, with her drawing paper beneath her, inside a large pigeon coop. Looking up at dozens of white pigeons, which had been raised on the ranch for 30 years, she simply began to draw what she saw.

“It’s hard to draw a bird because they always move. It was exciting, drawing faster and looser. Letting go of control made me more creative, exploratory and adventurous — and then the line in my work didn’t seem stale,” she says.

Artist and winemaker Alice Sutro in her Sonoma studio
Recent works on paper inside Alice Warnecke Sutro’s rustic studio on her Chalk Hill ranch in Sonoma. (Liza Gershman/Sonoma Magazine)

Today, Alice continues that freely given expression, and has become known for life-size figurative line drawings as well as live art performances. She likens the performances to drawing under pressure — a concept she explores in the tradition of artists like Niki de Saint Phalle, one of her creative inspirations.

At Healdsburg’s Gallery Lulo, where she first explored the concept of live drawing, she’d sit in the gallery and invite people off the street to step inside, where she would draw them live and then give away digital copies of the portraits to the subjects.

“I don’t think museums are always the best places for art. They make it rare and inaccessible,” she says, pointing out that long ago, art was a form of ritual and often didn’t culminate in a single, stand-alone work.

Last summer, Alice created a monumental outdoor piece set in an olive grove at Petaluma’s McEvoy Ranch. Her “I’m On a Roll” mural spooled out in one 100-foot-long roll of paper, with 20 life-size portraits of real-life people, solicited on the spot and drawn in a span of 12 hours — an experience she likens to running a marathon, as she dug deep for the physical strength and focus to finish the work. 

Sonoma artist and winemaker Alice Sutro
Alice Warnecke Sutro specializes in large-scale portrait projects, which she often draws on site and outdoors. With quick brushstrokes, she captures the essence of personality. (Liza Gershman/Sonoma Magazine)

“I was looking at subject matter and drawing, so my brain was working there. While talking to them, I was an active listener and active in the conversation and tried to remember things about them, but then I was also aware of the people around me. They are my audience, also.”

The live performance aspect of her art creates a deep connection with people.

“At the heart of my projects, there is always a person-to-person interaction,” she says. “Drawing from life gives my line a certain quality and helps make my work look how I want it to.”

Her recent installation, “Mistress of Memory,” at Healdsburg’s Harmon Guest House plays with the concept of hotels as transitive spaces, featuring life-size figurative drawings of women holding balloons over their bodies. Alice created art for six guest suites, as well as a large mural in the hotel restaurant — all accompanied by a flash-fiction writing project where hotel guest are invited to interpret the works. It’s a narrative, she explains, about making, and perhaps losing, memories.

“I like to open up my practice to other people. I think of it more like theater, like having a director or set producer.”

But drawing under such intense circumstances can take a toll. She utilizes her ranch as a place to recuperate “before getting back out there.” Her small, rambling studio, filled with family antiques and artifacts from around the ranch, was once used by her father, a landscape architect, as a drawing studio. It smells of the redwood from which it was built.

Sonoma artist and winemaker Alice Sutro
The whitewashed interior of Alice Warnecke Sutro’s art studio has a relaxed country feel, with plenty of places to stretch out. (Liza Gershman/Sonoma Magazine)

Alice says the studio is a place to look inward and work privately on smaller art pieces as well as short stories for an upcoming book.

“The internal work balances the public-facing part of the art,” she explains.

In late summer and early fall, Alice’s art takes a back seat to her duties as a rancher, grapegrower and winemaker. Alice and her aunt, Margo Warnecke Merck, manage an 80-acre vineyard, which produces some 350 tons of grapes that they sell to labels like Decoy, Matanzas Creek and Herzog. Alice holds back an additional 20 tons of fruit for her own label, SUTRO Wine Co. Her favorite fruit to work with is Cabernet Sauvignon, she says. “It’s the variety that can do the most. I love the grippiness and bitter taste.”

“I do often think about tannins as deep shadows on a painting.”

With a heavy harvest workload, Alice typically pauses larger works for a few months. Though, she keeps a list of musings and ideas close at hand and manages to create some time to write. She also occasionally uses an app on her iPad to “finish the stories” on drawings that are not yet complete. But the time away from more ambitious projects is another chance to recharge.

“I like that distance from it. I get reinvigorated to return to art-making with the seasons.”

Ever the farmer, with the promise of the future in mind, Alice is hopeful that this fall’s harvest will be the best vintage ever. After all, she says, “All farmers are idealistic romantics at heart.”

Alice Warnecke Sutro’s installations will be on display at Harmon Guest House through September, and she is also currently at work on a new exhibition at Escolar on the Santa Rosa Junior College campus in November. For more information, visit alicesutro.com. To shop Alice’s wines, including a crisp Sauvignon Blanc as well as her favorite Cabernet Sauvignon from Warnecke Ranch, visit sutrowine.com.