Page 50 – Sonoma Magazine

25 Hole-in-the-Wall Restaurants to Try in Sonoma County

April 2025

By Heather Irwin

Orange Marinated Chicken Pupusa Burger with choice of two stuffed pupusa’s filled with pico de gallo, guacamole, lettuce, cheese and chipotle cream from Don Julio’s Latin Grill & Pupusas in Rohnert Park on Monday, August 31, 2020. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

You know that one place that sells doughnuts and pho? Or that sandwich place with Tibetan dumplings on Monday your friend keeps talking about? Like most serious eaters, we love finding the weirdly wonderful strip mall joints and hidden culinary gems that might otherwise escape notice.

Here are some of the best spots that might just become one of your own secret restaurant finds. We’ll let you take all the credit.

West county and Sonoma Coast

Rosemary focaccia is pulled from the oven after baking, at Nightingale Breads, Sunday, October 9, 2022, in Forestville. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat) — Rosemary focaccia is pulled from the oven after baking, at Nightingale Breads, Sunday, Oct. 9, 2022, in Forestville. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)

Vanilla bean coconut and chocolate Nutella scones are displayed at Nightingale Breads, Sunday, Oct. 9, 2022, in Forestville. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)

Nightingale Bread: You’ll likely find a line before this teensy bakery opens on Saturday and Sunday mornings because the bread is so darn good and the cinnamon rolls so craveable. We are obsessed with the baklava-inspired cinnamon rolls (Saturday only) that upgrade the classic with pistachios, cardamom, rosewater and orange zest. Order ahead online for the best selection. 6665 Front St., Forestville, 707-887-8887, nightingalebreads.com

Koala’s Fine Food: Sushi restaurants aren’t exactly a dime a dozen in far west Sonoma County, but then again, neither are cheesesteaks. This casual family-run eatery brings together fish and chips, Korean bulgogi, Chinese won ton soup, Japanese ramen, cheesesteak, nigiri and Hawaiian poke for a true something-for-everyone experience. 16380 Mill St., Suite A, Guerneville, 707-869-3300, koalasfinefoodca.com

Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen: Located by the Creekside Skatepark, this curious little cafe is a mix of smoothies, bagels, pies and Middle Eastern cuisine. 9725 Main St., Monte Rio, 707-865-5169, lightwavecafe.square.site

Co-owner Gal Ginzburg will take your order among the antique radios at the Lightwave Cafe at Creekside Park in Monte Rio. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Strawberry cheesecake from Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen in Monte Rio. (Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen)

Wild Flour Bread: Make the pilgrimage to this funky Freestone bakery that’s become a must-stop for the bicyclists and the beach-bound. Follow your nose to where weekenders congregate around a communal table with steaming plates of sticky buns and fruit-studded scones or chase children through the garden. Don’t leave without tucking away a dense, seeded boule and a fougasse stuffed with savory cheese and veggies straight from the brick oven. 140 Bohemian Highway, Freestone, 707-874-2938, wildflourbread.com

Casino Bar and Grill: This is a place to discover accidentally and then love unconditionally. A lineup of pop-up chefs steal the show and change frequently. A recent remodel keeps the hole-in-the-wall vibe with a little less grit. 17000 Bodega Highway, Bodega, 707-876-3185, facebook.com/thecasinobarandgrill

The Casino Bar & Grill in Bodega, Monday, July 1, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

Cafe Aquatica: We always, always stop here on trips up the coast for coffee, soup and whatever else sounds delish. 10439 Highway 1, Jenner, 707-865-2251, cafeaquatica.com

Sebastopol

A&M BBQ: Pitmasters Kris Austin (of Austin’s BBQ) and Marvin McKinzy (of Marvin’s BBQ) joined forces to create A&M, which is not named for the Texas university, but for their first initials. But you’d be forgiven for the mistake because their wood-smoked barbecued meats are Lone Star-inspired, with a seasoned dry rub instead of slathered with sauce, and sell out fast on the Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays that A&M is open (from 11:30 a.m.). 495 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-799-2892. You can skip the line by ordering online at ambbqllc.com

A&M Barbecue — Texas Toast, cornbread muffins, pork ribs, links, brisket and tri-tip, barbecue chicken, baked beans, coleslaw and collard greens at A&M BBQ in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Squash and BLT slices at Psychic Pie in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Psychic Pie: This pint-sized pizzeria tucked away in a Sebastopol strip mall is the little pandemic pop-up that could. Initially sold only through social media and delivered in colorfully drawn pink bakery boxes to porches around Sonoma County, the pizzas became a post-COVID zeitgeist. The Roman-style pizzas are cut to order, and topped with cheeses and fresh produce from Sonoma County. 980 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-827-6032, psychicpie.com

The Hole in the Wall: You know it’s good when being hard to find is in the name. Omelets, pancakes and Benedicts are great, but don’t miss the biscuits and mushroom gravy or Dutch baby German pancake with caramelized apples. 972 Gravenstein Highway, Sebastopol, 707-827-6040, holeinthewallrestaurantsebastopol.com

Healdsburg

Acorn Cafe: Acorn is the breakfast and brunch spot that Healdsburg has needed, with joyful takes on morning standards like sunny lemon ricotta pancakes with lemon curd, whipped ricotta and lavender ice cream or a riff on green eggs and ham with herby yogurt, poached eggs and grilled ham seasoned with Dukkah. 124 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-955-7001, acornhealdsburg.com

Rohnert Park

Don Julio’s: This Salvadoran pupusería is loved by locals who rave about the handmade pupusas (thick corn tortillas stuffed with savory filling and paired with spicy coleslaw). There are plenty of other options, too, including burritos, taco salads, tortas and enchiladas. 217 Southwest Blvd., Rohnert Park, 707-242-3160, donjulioslatingrill.com

Empanadas at Vinoma in Rohnert Park. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

Vinoma: Amazing empanadas at a gas station? You’ve found Vinoma. The Argentinian-style empanadas are flaky, delicious pockets of dough filled with meat, cheese, vegetables and fruit. Our favorites include beef Carne Suave with scallions, red onions, olives, chopped eggs and spices; the steak and cheese empanada; the al pastor with caramelized pineapple; and the less traditional plum and bacon empanada. Don’t miss the apple crisp for dessert along with alfajores, shortbread cookies filled with dulce de leche. 5085 Redwood Drive, Rohnert Park, 707-536-9215, vinoma.net

Santa Rosa

Abyssinia: This family-style Ethiopian restaurant offers a world of flavor, including the vegetarian combo, served with a house salad and injera bread. 913 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-568-6455, my-abyssinia.com

Banh Mi at Thuan Phat: Still one of the best Vietnamese banh mi and, at $7.50, still a steal of a deal. 3020 Santa Rosa Ave., Suite H, Santa Rosa, 707-889-3966

Brother’s Café: The owners of Hole in the Wall in Sebastopol run a breakfast-all-day diner with many of the same proven dishes. 3135 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-541-6345, brotherscafesr.com

Lox Benedict with capers, chevre, fresh tomato, sour cream and hollandaise sauce and a Bloody Mary from the Brothers Cafe in Santa Rosa. Photo taken Thursday, April 27, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Lox Benedict with capers, chevre, fresh tomato, sour cream and hollandaise sauce and a Bloody Mary from the Brother’s Cafe in Santa Rosa. Photo taken Thursday, April 27, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Canevari’s Delicatessen & Catering: This no-frills Italian American deli is the kind of spot Tony Soprano and his buddies would like if they lived in Santa Rosa, ordering sandwiches for lunch, like the Meatball Sub, BBQ Tri Tip and Spicy Pulled Pork, or housemade ravioli and cannoli for dessert. You might leave with slightly less healthy arteries but it’s totally worth it: this hidden gem is one of the best delis in Sonoma County. 695 Lewis Road, Santa Rosa, 707-545-6941, canevarisdeli.com

Las Palmas: This Mexican eatery tucked into a rather, er, colorful strip of Santa Rosa Avenue, is not the sort of place you stumble upon, but definitely a spot worth seeking out. What brings local foodies and more than a few off-duty chefs to this modest family restaurant is simple Mexican fare made by hand. Don’t miss the Camarones a la Diabla. 415 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-546-3091

Pupusería Salvadoreña: If you’re lucky, you’ll hear the swap, swap, swap of the kitchen ladies smacking out pupusas — corn cakes filled with cheese, vegetables or meat — and griddled to perfection. The pupusería also serves up tamales, yuca frita and empanadas, but hey, you’re here for the pupusas. 1403 Maple Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-544-3141

Savor Vietnamese: A former doughnut shop transformed into charming Vietnamese eatery Corner Park Cafe, which then changed name to Savor Vietnamese. Go for the pho, barbecue pork banh mi, fresh rolls and noodle bowls. Save some room for mango shaved ice, a specialty, and boba tea. 4275 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-539-2416, savorvietnamesecuisine.com

A selection of menu items form Tambayan Filipino Eatery Thursday, October 12, 2023 tucked back in the Larkfield shopping center. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — A selection of menu items form Tambayan Filipino Eatery Thursday, Oct. 12, 2023, tucked back in the Larkfield shopping center. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Prating Pusit, deep-fried thick calamari, front, and Shanghai pork lumpia from Tambayan Filipino Eatery in the Larkfield shopping center in Santa Rosa, Thursday, Oct. 12, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Tambayan: If you’re jonesing for some lumpia, halo-halo or adobo chicken, this Larkfield restaurant offers authentic cuisine from the Philippines. Tambayan means “hang out” in Tagalog (the native language of the Philippines). 600 Larkfield Center, Larkfield-Wikiup, 707-843-3824, tambayaneatery.com

Taqueria Molcajetes: Molcajete typically refers to a large volcanic stone bowl that is heated to approximately the temperature of the sun. Meats, fresh cheese, cactus paddles, green onions and seafood are mixed with a spicy chile stew and the whole sizzling, furious thing is brought to your table. It will remain steaming, molten and bubbling for nearly half an hour as you are enveloped by a refreshing meat and vegetable-scented steam. 1195 W. College Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-544-8280

Viethai Cuisine: The food here is the real deal. Run by a husband-and-wife team, the menu includes Southeast Asian street food like Nam Khao Tod (a crispy rice salad), corn fritters and satay along with spicy red curry, pad thai, Khao soi (coconut curry soup) and larger entrees. Pho is fragrant and nourishing, especially if you’re under the weather. Appetizers, like the crispy rice salad with bits of perfumed lemongrass and lime, are a must-try. 320 W. Third St., Suite G, Santa Rosa, 707-978-2292, viethaisr.com

Crispy rice with peanuts at Viethai Cuisine in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Owner Clare Elaine offers a wide selection of Pretzels, Cinnamon Rolls, Cookies and Pretzel Sandwiches at the Wooden Petal Bake Shop Wednesday, September 11, 2024, in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Owner Clare Elaine offers a wide selection of pretzels, cinnamon rolls, cookies and pretzel sandwiches at the Wooden Petal Bake Shop in Santa Rosa. Photo taken Wednesday, Sept. 11, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Wooden Petal Bakeshop: Adorable knotted pretzels are the mainstay of baker Clare Hulme, but her Santa Rosa bakeshop offers tasty sandwiches (on pretzel buns, naturally) and soups to go. Though she often sells out, grab (or better yet, preorder) some sweet and savory pretzels for later. 4894 Sonoma Highway, Santa Rosa, 707-695-1880, woodenpetal.com

Petaluma

Roy’s Chicago Dogs at the Yard: This tiny, sit-at-the-counter joint offers variations of Vienna Beef franks for meat aficionados. Consider the traditional all-beef wiener, a half-pound “Home Wrecker,” a spicy fire dog or a Polish dog. Then load up with the 50 topping options, such as housemade pineapple mustard, Hell Fire sauce, onion rings and blue cheese. Also worth howling about: housemade pies and deep-fried Oreos. 84 Corona Road, Petaluma, 707-774-1574

What a Chicken: Choose from mixed grill plates as well as tacos and fall-off-the-bone ribs. Sides include potato salad, coleslaw and Spanish rice. We recommend going for the freshly made corn tortillas. 706 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 707-971-7549

Green Globe Artichokes Blossom in This Spring Tapenade

April 2025

By Michele Anna Jordan

Assorted olive tapenade. (margouillat photo / Shutterstock)

Our official state vegetable, the artichoke, was first planted by Italian immigrants in the 19th century. The thorny thistle is celebrated in Monterey County, where it is widely grown, with artichoke-themed cafes, roadside statues and an annual spring festival.

In Sonoma County, artichokes can be found at local farmers markets through late spring, primarily sourced from small farming operations at the coast. According to Joe Imwalle of Santa Rosa’s Imwalle Gardens, it’s too warm further inland for good growth — the spiky plants prefer the foggy, cool influence of the Pacific.

Green Globe artichokes are heavy, firm, and meaty, with an earthy flavor that blossoms in spring dishes. Newer thornless varieties aren’t as meaty and flavorful, say artichoke aficionados. Vintage favorite Green Globes are becoming available once again in many local supermarkets, including at Oliver’s Markets, coming direct from one of two commercial California farms. They’re delicious in this chunky, textured spring tapenade, whether spooned over grilled chicken or fresh goat cheese, or served simply atop thick slices of toast.

Artichoke & Olive Tapenade

Makes about 2 ¼ cups

3 large fresh Green Globe artichokes

2 tbsp. kosher salt, plus more as needed

3 tsp. olive oil

3 garlic cloves

2 tsp. green peppercorns in brine, drained

1 tsp. minced lemon zest

1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 cup (6 ounces) fresh green olives, such as picholine, pitted and minced

¼ cup (2 ounces) walnut pieces, toasted and minced

1 tbsp. Italian parsley, chopped

Freshly ground black pepper

Rustic bread, sliced and toasted, for serving

Using a sharp knife, cut the stems of the artichokes straight across. Set the artichokes on their sides and cut about ½ inch off the top.

Drizzle about a teaspoon of olive oil into the center of each artichoke.

Put the artichokes into a saucepan that holds them snugly. Add enough water to come up to the top of the artichokes. Add kosher salt to the water and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water boils, reduce the heat, and cover the pan. If the artichokes do not stay submerged, set a separate, small lid inside the pan on top of them and then cover the pan.

After 20 minutes, test the artichokes for doneness by using tongs to wiggle a few leaves.

If there is no give, cook for another 5 minutes and test again. The artichokes will be perfectly cooked when leaves come off with just a tad of resistance, from 20 to 40 minutes, depending on age and size.

Meanwhile, grind the garlic to a paste using a mortar and pestle. Add the green peppercorns, lemon zest and juice, and extra-virgin olive oil, and mix, scraping the sides of the bowl to combine well. Set aside.

Transfer the artichokes to a colander, rinse with cool water and drain thoroughly. When cool, remove the leaves to enjoy separately. Use a grapefruit spoon or sharp paring knife to remove the choke from each heart. Discard the chokes and cut the hearts into ¼-inch dice.

In a medium bowl, combine the diced artichoke hearts, olives, walnuts and olive oil mixture.

Add the chopped parsley and several turns of black pepper. Taste and season with salt, as needed. Let rest 30 minutes before serving atop thick slices of toast.

Get Ready to Eat Your Heart Out at BottleRock Napa Valley 2025

April 2025

By Heather Irwin

The fries at Moro, a Moroccan street food restaurant in the Oxbow Public Market in Napa, Monday, April 29, 2024. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Whether you’re noshing fried chicken in General Admission or grabbing some caviar-covered hot dogs in the VIP section, BottleRock Napa Valley (May 23-25) has another delicious lineup of restaurants ready to rock.

The three-day music extravaganza, now in its 12th year, has always been known for its gourmet food stalls, wine tents, craft beer and top-notch artists and bands, including Sublime, Public Enemy, 4 Non Blondes and dozens of others on multiple stages.

Though the much-anticipated food celebrity lineup for the Williams-Sonoma Culinary Stage is yet to be announced, we’ve got the scoop on what’s on the food playlist.

BottleRock food — The caviar corndog from PRESS at BottleRock 2024. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

Best food at BottleRock 2025

Sonoma County will represent with Sarmentine Artisan Boulanger, Amy’s Drive Thru, HopMonk Tavern, Gerard’s Paella, OHM Coffee Roasters (Sonoma and Napa) and Mariapilar Ice Creamery.

Some of the Napa and Bay Area-based restaurants we’re most excited about include:

— Loveski Deli: A Jewish-style deli from Meadowood Napa Valley chef Christopher Kostow and his wife, Martina. Located at Oxbow Public Market, the food is a New Yorker’s dream, with delicious matzo ball soup, fresh bagels, a chopped Reuben sandwich and braised brisket.

— Stateline Road Smokehouse: These Napa newcomers previewed some of their Kansas-style barbecue at last year’s festival, and we’re looking forward to another strong showing from chef-owner Darryl Bell. Hopefully the brisket fries make a return.

— Moro: Chef Mourad Lahou, founder and owner of Aziza and Mourad restaurants in San Francisco, opened this super-casual Moroccan street food cafe at Oxbow Public Market last April. Dishes like chicken shawarma, roasted lamb shoulder with couscous and grilled flatbread with eggplant dip, sound like perfect candidates for BottleRock eaters.

— Mustard’s Bar Taco: A taqueria pop-up from Napa’s Mustard’s Grill? Call us intrigued.

— El Porteño Empanadas: Classy hand pies made with local ingredients. Perfect for walking around between bands.

— New England Lobster & Crab Shack: I’ve had their lobster rolls countless times and they never disappoint.

— Lao Table: Based in San Francisco, this award-winning restaurant is known for papaya salad and Laotian fried rice — we hope to see both at BottleRock.

See a full list of more than 50 restaurants, bakeries and local purveyors on the festival food lineup at bottlerocknapavalley.com.

Now open

Baked goods from La Reyna Bakery in Santa Rosa. (Ricardo Ibarra / La Prensa Sonoma)

La Reyna Bakery has opened a second location in Rohnert Park featuring their tried and true Mexican pan dulce — sweet morning treats like conchas and cream-filled rolls — as well as flaky empanadas, coffee, tortas and bolillos (Mexican bread). The family-owned bakery has been a Santa Rosa favorite for nearly 15 years, located inside Rancho Mendoza Super Market at 1201 Piner Road. The new Rohnert Park bakery is at 1 Padre Parkway. Check out their delicious photos at instagram.com/lareynabakery or order online at lareynabakeryca.com.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Matzo, Macaroons and More: Where to Eat for Passover in Sonoma County

April 2025

By Heather Irwin

Lambshank at Grossman’s Noshery & Deli in Santa Rosa is part of the Passover dinner available for pick up. (Grossman’s Noshery & Bar)

Making matzo (or matzah), the traditional unleavened crackers of Passover (April 12-20), is an 18-minute baking ballet for Amy Brown and Joe Wolf of Santa Rosa’s Marla Bakery.

“It’s a labor of love for Amy and I. We try to make it taste good and keep to traditions,” said Wolf.

According to ancient Jewish law, the clock begins ticking the moment water is added to flour, salt and olive oil. The dough must be mixed, hand-rolled and baked into lightly browned wafers within 18 minutes — the same amount of time it took the Israelites to make their swift escape from Egypt. No time for leavening, no time for intricate braids — just the essential life-sustaining carbohydrates needed for their long journey to Canaan.

Passover marks the anniversary of the Exodus. It’s a time when the Jewish community comes together to celebrate, give thanks and share meals with family and friends.

Joe Wolf and Amy Brow of Marla Bakery & Catering in Windsor, Calif. September 19, 2023. (Photo: Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine) — Joe Wolf and Amy Brow of Marla Bakery. Photo taken in 2023. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)

During this time, leavened bread is forbidden and is replaced by matzo, which many have a love-hate relationship with. Its dry, cracker-like texture can leave your mouth feeling like the Sahara, but according to Wolf, adding olive oil makes Marla’s matzo more palatable. While they aren’t a kosher bakery, their matzo follows the traditional 18-minute preparation process and tastes good, he said.

“Passover is a time of celebration where we all come together and have a wonderful time,” said Wolf. “It’s a time to have fun and welcome people over to eat.”

Marla’s matzoth (plural of matzo) are available by preorder on their website, marlabakery.com, until 5 p.m. April 8 or, in limited amounts, at their shop (208 Davis St., Santa Rosa, 707-852-4091) from Friday, April 11, through Sunday, April 13. They’ll also have chocolate-dipped macaroons and a flourless chocolate torte for Passover.

More than matzo

Food is at the heart of the Passover celebration, beginning with the traditional Seder meal on April 12. Throughout the week, a variety of dishes are enjoyed, from brisket and lamb to matzo ball soup, smoked fish and macaroon cookies.

Though many Jewish families spend days preparing these meals, some Sonoma County restaurants and bakeries are doing the work for you.

Grossman's Passover — Lambshank at Grossman’s Noshery & Deli in Santa Rosa is part of the Passover dinner available for pick up. (Photo: Grossman’s)

Grossman’s Noshery & Bar

À la carte dinner, available for pickup April 12-20, includes brisket with potato leek latkes and horseradish cream, lamb shanks, chicken shawarma kebabs, a smoked meat board, smoked and pickled fish board, Sabich board (fried eggplant, falafel, tabbouleh, matzo crackers and condiments), pomegranate molasses roasted carrots, matzo ball soup and chocolate orange sesame macaroons. Order online at grossmanssr.com. 308 Wilson St., Santa Rosa, 707-595-7707

La Bodega

This Sebastopol restaurant will host a traditional Passover service with a Seder Plate and Feast from 6 p.m., Saturday, April 12, with matzo ball soup, saffron chicken, stuffed cabbage and a Jerusalem artichoke and shiitake mushroom cassoulet. $59 for adults and $29 for children under 12. Reservations required. The meal can also be ordered for take-and-bake. 2295 Gravenstein Highway South, Sebastopol, 707-827-1832, sonomawineshop.com

Drewish Deli

Pick up your Passover meal at Healdsburg’s favorite Jewish deli. The meal includes housemade brisket au jus, gefilte fish with horseradish aioli, Bubbie’s matzo ball soup, noodle kugel and flourless chocolate mini cakes. $189, available for pickup April 11-14. Also available à la carte. Preorder only. 11 Mitchell Lane, Healdsburg, 707-955-0600, drewishdeli.com

Fun Fact: The Seder dinner traditionally features three matzoth. One, called the afikomen, is broken into two pieces, and the larger half is hidden by an adult. Children then search the house to find it, and the one who locates it is rewarded a small prize for returning it.

Matzo

From Amy Brown of Marla Bakery.

Makes 12 matzo

2 pounds bread flour (7 1/2 cups)

2 tsp. salt

3 ounces olive oil

1 1/2 cup water

Sea salt to top

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a mixer, combine all ingredients (except for the sea salt for topping). Mix on low speed until well combined. Remove from the mixer and divide the dough into 12 equal balls. Cover the balls with a wet towel or plastic wrap. One by one, roll each ball as thin as possible on a lightly-floured, upside-down baking sheet. Sprinkle with sea salt and use a fork to dock the dough. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake until crisp.

For more springtime celebrations in Sonoma County, check out dozens of local Easter happenings.

Modern Luxury Meets City Views in Hillside Sonoma Home

April 2025

By Karen Kizer

Great room. (Ned Bonzi / Sotheby’s International Realty)

A luxury home in the Sonoma hills — complete with distant San Francisco views — is available for sale. The new three-bedroom, three-bathroom, five-half-bathroom dwelling has a detached office or guest room. It sits on 15 wooded acres that include a pool and tennis court. The asking price is $12,000,000.

The modern building has three split-level stories of offset spaces that allow for rooftop patios on the second story. Bold brick-red siding accents the mostly white exterior and is repeated in the outdoor lounges and on the detached office.

Floor-to-ceiling windows and the open-concept layout allows for showstopping views throughout the home. The interior design’s clean lines and white interiors yield to the outdoor setting, but many indoor finishes provide a beautiful counterpoint.

Hillside Sonoma luxury home — Great room in hillside Sonoma home. (Ned Bonzi / Sotheby’s International Realty)

Amid tranquil whites and creams, there are saturated design surprises. Super knotty wood planks on the great room ceiling crown the airy space with rustic elegance. Walnut-stained shelves offer an all-over richness in the library, as do chocolate brown walls in the dining room. A sagey-gray tile backsplash and a teal upholstered banquette pop in the kitchen. A bathroom is accented via a pixelated floral backsplash made of white and ochre micro-mosaic tiles. Hanging teardrops of brass and glass create an unconventional room divider in a living room.

Amenities include a cabana, outdoor fireplace and spa perched high on an upper patio with valley views. The woodsy property also enjoys a meadow that is ready to become a vineyard, an event space or whatever the homeowners can envision.

For more information on this home at 17355 Norrbom Road in Sonoma, contact listing agent Holly Bennett, 707-484-4747, 707-935-2500, Holly.Bennett@Sothebys.Realty, Sotheby’s International Realty – Wine Country – Sonoma Brokerage, 793 Broadway, Sonoma, hollybennett.com

Newly Built Russian River Home Offers Airy Seclusion Among the Redwoods

April 2025

By Karen Kizer

Kitchen and great room. (Brian McCloud Photography)

A 2021 build brings modern style to a woodsy hillside in Guerneville. The two-bedroom, two-bathroom home and bunkhouse sit on nearly a quarter of an acre. The asking price is $795,000.

The 1,400-square-foot home has an expansive feel thanks to the open layout, two-story vaulted ceilings and generous windows and sliders. Stained wood planks along the ceilings top the look with a rustic coziness.

Russian River Guerneville home — Kitchen and great room in an airy Russian River home in Guerneville. (Brian McCloud Photography)

Russian River Guerneville home in the redwoods — Deck off the great room provides forest views from the Russian River home. (Brian McCloud Photography)

A wraparound redwood porch — accessible from all rooms and the bunkhouse — provides further immersion into the 360-degree forest views.

Other amenities include a jacuzzi and an unfinished basement ready for conversion into a movie room, workout studio or living space.

For more information on the home at 17783 Santa Rosa Ave. in Guerneville, contact listing agents Russ and Sandra White, 707-486-2131, Sonoma County Properties, 9056 Graton Road, Graton, russandsandra.com.

Legendary Underwood Bistro Serves up Worldly Surprises in Graton

April 2025

By Heather Irwin

Hat Yai Fried Chicken with sticky rice, cucumber salad and sweet + sour sauce with a Mucho Micho cocktail from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Hidden deep within rural west county is a restaurant you’ve visited a hundred times or have never heard of.

Locally, it’s legendary, a longtime favorite of wine industry folk who stop in for a beer after a long day among the vines and barrels of Green Valley. No one bats an eye when someone wearing dusty boots and Carhartt pants walks through the door.

Underwood Bistro is part of the fabric of Graton, having weathered nearly 25 years in the volatile restaurant industry. Built on the bones of a former roadhouse and watering hole, it’s retained its familiar come-as-you-are charm. Once inside, however, diners are transported to a Parisian-style bistro with long banquettes, bentwood chairs, a nickel-topped bar and soft yellow lighting that gives it an all-day sunset glow.

Opened in 2001 by San Francisco transplant and former chef Matthew Greenbaum, the menu has always featured brasserie classics like French onion soup, steak frites, cauliflower gratin and duck leg confit. But the kitchen is equally adept at tapas-style Mediterranean dishes and maybe a surprise Thai dish or two in the last few years.

It’s never been easy to pinpoint Underwood’s exact focus — “global tapas” doesn’t do it justice — but more importantly, there are always familiar favorites to revisit. Open for dinner until 9:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, it’s also a rare late-night spot.

Underwood Bistro in Graton — Flat Iron Steak Frites with mushroom-shallot butter, arugula, chipotle steak sauce and frites from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Chef Mark Miller has helmed the kitchen for 20 years, creating food that pairs perfectly with the region’s cool-climate Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays and adding his touches to the menu — most notably authentic Thai dishes.

On his first trip to Southeast Asia in the early 1990s, he fell in love with the hallmark sweet, sour and salty flavors of Thai cuisine — so much so that he began cooking in a Thai kitchen, learning how to make authentic curries, sauces and wok-fired dishes.

“I started going back every year — sometimes twice a year. Working in a Thai kitchen just changed me,” Miller said.

And while a few Thai dishes began appearing on the Underwood menu over the years, it wasn’t until COVID-19 that Thai cuisine became a secret specialty for in-the-know locals.

As restaurants shifted to takeout-only during the early months of the pandemic, Underwood moved to an all-Thai menu to simplify takeout. Cheeseburgers just don’t travel as well as pad Thai, said Miller. Locals not only loved it, they lined up for it.

“It just took off,” he said. With few choices for any type of Asian cuisine in west county, flavorful dishes like pad thai, crispy rice salad, Thai lettuce cups and Thai-style fried chicken gained a following.

In the years since, the Underwood menu has returned to its lineup of European tapas-style dishes — though Thai fan favorites have remained.

This year, he hopes to do a Thai pop-up featuring some of his favorite recipes, happy to have an excuse to fire up the wok and cook what he loves.

Pad Thai from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Fun Fact: Pad thai is the number one seller among Thai dishes. “I’m not sure why, but we serve hundreds of them each week,” Miller said.

The Vibe: The bar is the heart of the restaurant and a great place to hang out if you’re going solo. The dining room is cozy, with tables for two and four — but it can get loud at night. The secluded outdoor patio is excellent for a lunch rendezvous or brunch with your dog.

The Food: Chou-fleur, a cauliflower gratin, is a must-try — even if you hate cauliflower. No one can hate that much butter and cheese on anything. Salads are a specialty, and they’re all worth trying. The French frisse aux lardons salad has bitter greens, a poached egg and pancetta. You can’t go wrong with entrées, but the pad grapao moo is excellent. This unique Thai dish has spicy ground pork, a fried egg, pungent fish sauce with lime juice and jasmine rice. Hat Yai fried chicken is a revelation.

Pad Grapao Moo with spicy stir fried ground pork, long beans, Thai-style fried egg, prik nam pla and jasmine rice from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The Perks: An excellent classic cocktail list.

The Tab: Appetizers are $12-$15, and with a cocktail are a nice light choice. Salads are $13 to $24, and entrées from $24 to $36 (steak is $55). The range of prices makes it affordable for most, but you can certainly splurge.

The Service: Overall excellent, with props to the bar staff. Wait times are reasonable, even on busy nights.

The Spot: 9113 Graton Road, Graton, 707-823-7023, underwoodgraton.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Bohème Wines, an Unassuming Gem in Occidental, Offers Free Tastings

April 2025

By Tina Caputo

The Bohème Wines tasting room in Occidental. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines)

Named for the Bohemian Highway that twists and turns its way through Sonoma’s majestic Northern Coast Range of redwoods, Bohème Wines is an unexpected find in laid-back downtown Occidental. The winery specializes in fresh and focused Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, inspired by cool-climate Sonoma Coast vineyard sites.

The story

Kurt Beitler founded Bohème Wines in 2004, but his winemaking origin story begins decades earlier. As the grandson of Caymus Vineyards founder Charlie Wagner and the nephew of co-founder Chuck Wagner, Beitler spent his early years among the vines in Napa. Although his family moved to Oregon when Beitler was still a child, the vines — and his uncle Chuck — would eventually call him back to the North Coast.

Kurt Beitler, founder of Bohème Wines. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines) — Kurt Beitler, founder of Bohème Wines, in a foggy coastal vineyard. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines)

Beitler spent summers as a preteen working on the Caymus bottling line and in 1999, Wagner encouraged his nephew to pursue a career in winemaking. Beitler started in the vineyards, learning the intricacies of winegrowing, and found that he loved working outdoors and tending the vines. Still, he wasn’t a big wine drinker in those early days; it took a few special wines from the Sonoma Coast — including William Selyem’s Summa Vineyard Pinot Noir and Littorai wines from the late ’90s — to light the spark of inspiration.

In 2004, Beitler founded his own winery focused on cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from four Sonoma Coast vineyards, including English Hill, Stuller, Taylor Ridge and Occidental Hills. He makes just 2,500 cases per year.

At English Hill Vineyard by the Sonoma Coast. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines)

The vibe

Bohème’s tasting room is set in a small storefront on Occidental’s Main Street, outfitted with a few tables and a leather sofa, plus a casual stand-up tasting bar. Stunning large-scale photos of Bohème’s fog-shrouded vineyards adorn the walls, hinting at hidden landscapes just up the road from the tasting room. When he’s not out in the vineyards, the affable Beitler can often be found pouring wines for guests.

On the palate

Though Beitler enjoyed bolder wines in his younger days — he grew up on Caymus, after all — he makes his own Pinot and Chardonnay in a more delicate and reserved style. Alcohol levels are kept on the modest side and the wines are fermented until no residual sugar remains.

A bottle of 2021 Bohème Wines English Hill Vineyard Chardonnay. (Bohème Wines)

A bottle of 2021 Bohème Wines Stuller Vineyard Pinot Noir. (Bohème Wines)

A standout for me is the 2021 English Hill West Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($49), with its ocean-inspired minerality and floral notes. The 2021 Taylor Ridge Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($63) is another beauty, with a delicate profile that taps you on the shoulder and whispers of juicy pomegranates. The 2021 Stuller Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($63) is Bohème’s darkest Pinot, combining black fruits, earthy notes and complex tannins.

It’s common these days for Sonoma and Napa wineries to charge $50 or more for tastings, but Bohème doesn’t charge a thing. Beitler said he appreciates that people want to come in and sample his wines, and he wouldn’t feel right asking them to pay for it. Besides, he said, “Occidental is just not that kind of place.”

The Grove of Old Trees, an old-growth redwood grove with walking trails, near Occidental. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)

Beyond the bottle

Get a taste of the redwoods near Bohème with a hike at the Grove of Old Trees. This lovely old-growth Coast Redwood forest was set to be cut down in the 1990s before the LandPaths conservancy saved it from the saw. Now visitors can explore an easily accessible network of paths and trails in this privately owned grove.

3625 Main St., Occidental, 707-887-2287. Open from noon to 6 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. bohemewines.com

Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.

Glen Ellen’s Fig Cafe Transforms Into Poppy

April 2025

By Heather Irwin

Prince Edward Island Steamed Mussels with chorizo, in a sofrito sauce at the Fig Cafe in Glen Ellen. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The former Fig Cafe in Glen Ellen will bloom into a new restaurant this spring, appropriately called Poppy.

“The Fig Cafe had a wonderful run,” said John Toulze, managing partner of The Girl and The Fig and the forthcoming Poppy. After 20 years in the community, Toulze said it was time for a new concept.

The restaurant won’t veer wildly off course from the café, which was known for its mix of California-Mediterranean cuisine. Instead, Poppy will celebrate the classic French dishes Toulze and Fig founder Sondra Bernstein loved about their trips to the south of France over the last 25 years — with plenty of California touches.

“It’s a return to where we started. Simple, ingredient-driven food with that original passion that was France,” he said.

Chicken Paillard with blue lake beans, mashed potatoes and lemon caper sauce from the Fig Cafe in Glen Ellen. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — Chicken Paillard with blue lake beans, mashed potatoes and lemon caper sauce from the Fig Cafe in Glen Ellen. The new Poppy in the former Fig Cafe space will celebrate classic French dishes. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Fig Cafe to become Poppy — The girl & the fig founder Sondra Bernstein with President/COO John Toulze. The business partners will open a new restaurant in April called Poppy in the former Fig Cafe in Glen Ellen. (Erik Castro / for The Press Democrat)

While the menu is still in final development, dishes like duck liver terrine, Coquilles Saint Jacques, roasted rabbit, and chicken with wild mushrooms will likely appear. Poppy will also offer family-style prix fixe dinners Wednesday through Friday with four courses. Each night, a single entrée, such as roasted lamb, cassoulet or flounder Meuniere, will be offered. Wine will be included in the price.

“We want to focus on value, with everything included,” Toulze said.

The Fig Cafe quietly closed in December 2024, and renovations quickly began on the historic Glen Ellen location.

“We are completely reimagining the space; the colors, the textures, the experience,” he said.

Poppy is slated to open in late April. 13690 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-938-2130, poppyglenellen.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Novavine Gives Unused Sonoma County Greenhouses New Life Growing Produce for Food Bank

April 2025

By Abigail Peterson

A greenhouse where Novavine, a plant nursery in Sonoma County, grows produce for the Redwood Empire Food Bank. (Redwood Empire Food Bank)

Grapevine nursery owner Jay Jensen had a problem.

Grapevines are a seasonal product, and his 120,000 square feet of greenhouses in Sonoma Valley were unused from late June through January. The team that worked in those greenhouses were not as busy for half the year, too. That is, until Jensen happened to sit next to a board member of the Redwood Empire Food Bank at a local event. The two business leaders started chatting, and Jensen realized those empty square feet — and the expertise of his professional horticulturists — could be put to good use in the off-season, growing food.

Jensen and his team at Novavine started their pilot program in late June 2024, using about 5,000 square feet of empty greenhouse space for vegetables and herbs to donate to the food bank. The nursery’s horticulturists set up arrays of 5-gallon containers and trained the vegetables vertically up trellises strung from the top of the greenhouse.

Sonoma Grapevine Nursery Turned Greenhouse — A greenhouse where Novavine, a plant nursery in Sonoma County, grows produce for the Redwood Empire Food Bank. (Redwood Empire Food Bank)

“When you walked in, it was a jungle of all these plants growing up the strings, reaching for the light,” says Jensen. “It was a great thing to see, especially when they were loaded up with all these beautiful peppers and tomatoes.”

The team farmed several thousand pounds of tomatillos, peppers, cilantro, tomatoes and green onions to donate — and Jensen was able to keep his workforce employed through the season.

“It felt like it was meant to be,” says Alison Smith, chief operations officer of the Redwood Empire Food Bank. “It was a complete alignment, tapping into the community in this way. For Jay, he wanted to keep his team engaged and do good — it was about family, his workforce, his community.”

Smith explains that the food bank targets fresh produce for 50% of what they distribute to local families. A lot of healthy produce is available in summer, but there’s less around in late fall and at the holidays — right when the greenhouse crop, planted in June, was at peak production. Another bonus: the Novavine produce could be distributed just a few miles from where it was grown. And the quality and variety was top-notch, including several veggies and herbs not often available to food bank clients.

Produce to be donated to the Redwood Empire Food Bank, grown by the horticulturists at Novavine, a plant nursery in Sonoma County. (Redwood Empire Food Bank) — Produce to be donated to the Redwood Empire Food Bank, grown by the horticulturists at Novavine. (Redwood Empire Food Bank)

“We get a lot of potatoes and onions. Tomatoes, sometimes. Tomatillos, rarely. Cilantro, never,” says Smith. “So our clients were really happy.”

This season, the Novavine team plans to double or triple the amount of growing space, yielding tens of thousands of pounds of vegetables to distribute. They are applying for grants to defray a few of the costs. And Redwood Empire Food Bank is touting the program’s synergies to other regional food banks, to see if there are plant nurseries in other communities with unused greenhouse space in the off-season.

By the end of June, when grapevine season is over, there will be another round of veggies starting up the trellises inside the Novavine greenhouses.

“I’ve had a business in this community for 27 years,” says Jensen. “And even in this community, hunger is more of a problem than any one of us would like to admit. This is a program that everybody feels good about.”

Novavine, 6735 Sonoma Highway, Santa Rosa, 707-539-5678, novavine.com