Credited with planting Napa Valley’s first Chardonnay vines in 1948 and opening one of the valley’s first post-Prohibition wineries in 1951, Stony Hill has spent more than seven decades championing lean white wines. Now, nearly four years into new ownership, the winery is moving into the modern age with a revamped tasting room and a refined interpretation of its legendary house style.
When Fred and Eleanor McCrea bought an old goat ranch on Spring Mountain in 1943, the couple envisioned a summer home at the site. But Fred soon came to believe that the high-elevation property, with its volcanic mountain soils and limestone sublayer, would be ideal for producing Burgundian-style Chardonnay and racy Riesling. He was right.
Stony Hill released its first wine in 1954 and the winery went on to become a cult favorite for its mineral-driven whites. Long Meadow Ranch picked up a majority stake in the winery in 2018, and two years later, Heitz Cellar owner Gaylon Lawrence Jr. and CEO Carlton McCoy Jr. bought Stony Hill. Along with the McCrea family’s historic Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Riesling plantings, the estate’s certified-organic vineyards now include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.
The vibe
Stony Hill sits in a remote location between St. Helena and Calistoga, within Bothe-Napa Valley State Park. As you wind your way up a steep one-lane road, you may find yourself wondering if you’ve somehow taken a wrong turn. When you get to the top of the hill, you’ll spot the midcentury home that serves as the winery tasting room.
Don’t be fooled by the structure’s understated appearance; in 2022-23, the McCrea family’s original 1951 home received a luxurious makeover. The revamped space includes a stylish living room lounge where vinyl records spin — Curtis Mayfield’s “Superfly” was playing the day I visited — plus a cozy library and a patio that showcases sweeping mountain views. Though the designers replaced the family’s “well-loved” furniture, all of the pieces are vintage and many of Fred’s books remain.
On the palate
Stony Hill’s wine style remains largely unchanged after 70 years, though it appears to be moving in a slightly weightier direction. The 2019 Estate Chardonnay ($137), with its saline and mineral notes, has a silky texture and hints of pastry crust richness. The 2022 L’Escalier ($150), an unconventional blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay, is aromatic and tangy with a zing of acidity.
Though Stony Hill made its reputation as a white wine house, it is increasingly leaning into reds. The 2021 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($250) is structured and delicate, with aromas and flavors of ripe black cherries.
Yes, the wines are pricey, but the cost of a visit is pretty much in line with other high-end Napa properties. Tastings start at $85 for the Taste of Stony Hill sampler (if you’re a Napa local, you can book it for just 50 bucks). Higher up on the bougie scale are the Residence Experience ($150), which includes cheese pairings and library wines, and the Terroir Experience ($350) — a deluxe offering that features a vineyard tour in a Lexus SUV.
Beyond the bottle
Since you’re already surrounded by Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, why not take a scenic hike? Covering nearly 2,000 acres, the park includes 10 miles of trails amid a fragrant forest of redwood, oak and fir trees. Try the 3-mile Redwood Trail, a favorite for its shady canopy and mixed evergreen forest, then head to downtown Calistoga for a browse and a bite.
Stony Hill, 3331 St. Helena Highway North, St. Helena. Tastings by appointment only. stonyhillvineyard.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.