It’s been 15 months since chef Brian Limoges arrived in Sonoma as the executive chef of Enclos, an exceedingly ambitious fine dining restaurant expected to open Dec. 5.
The celebrated alum of Atelier Crenn, Quince and Birdsong in San Francisco — all Michelin-starred restaurants — has been immersing himself, quite literally, in the flora and fauna of his new home.
Eight-mile early morning hikes through the 98-acre Montini Open Space Preserve near Limoges’ home have provided ample opportunities for forest bathing among fields of oat grass, lichen-covered live oaks and groups of mule deer. Walking the preserve’s winding Sonoma Overlook Trail grounded the chef in the Sonoma landscape and was the genesis of his multicourse, terroir-driven menu that’s making waves in the culinary world even before its first official service.
The new restaurant, housed in a renovated 1880s Victorian home in downtown Sonoma, is an extension of Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards & Winery, owned by Mac and Leslie McQuown. With just 12 tables, it’s a restaurant and private wine tasting experience hybrid.
“When I was thinking of the restaurant’s cuisine and using those (outdoor) experiences, I wanted it to be about that. We agreed that the restaurant should be about Sonoma and the terroir here, and we tell the story through that,” said Limoges in a recent interview.
That means showstopping dishes, including “Antlers,” smoked oat flour tarts filled with venison and topped with fried lichen served on a deer antler, or “Honeycomb,” tiny ice cream sandwiches made by pastry chef Sophie Hau perched atop a honeycomb frame from the farm.
Limoges, who grew up in a New Hampshire town of 14,000, said coming to Sonoma is a kind of bookend to his culinary career after working in big cities.
“It felt natural to be here. I was drawn back to nature, and there’s a lot of serendipity in this opportunity to be here,” said Limoges.
Already, there’s talk about Michelin ambitions for the sleepy town of Sonoma, which currently has no Michelin stars, unlike tonier Healdsburg or nearby Napa Valley. Limoges acknowledges his interest — he’s helmed several starred restaurants — but wants the driving force to be people rather than prizes.
“The moment (Michelin) is your goal, you forget why you’re doing this in the first place. We want to take care of people through creative cuisine, hospitality and a warm experience, and I think Michelin comes naturally with that,” he said.
“I’ve been in restaurants of all different types of stars and achievements, but the driving force is to provide an experience for our guests.”
The 11-course meal is $225 per person, and reservations are being accepted for December.
139 E Napa St., Sonoma
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.