Petaluma’s Brigitte Bistro Is the Real French Deal

Escargot at Brigitte Bistro in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

In a nutshell: Chef/owner Nick Ronan serves the kind of food he loves best: hearty bistro-style dishes like beef bourguignon and duck confit, along with tableside beef tartare and the requisite steak frites. But instead of pandering to us, he brings the flavors of French homeland directly to the table. Ronan’s favorite motto, “Love. Food. Wine. Passion. Life. People” comes through in his comforting, homey cuisine. 

For a long time, I’d given up on fancy French restaurants that boasted culinary superiority while kitchen staff worked the can opener on asparagus and veal demi-glace.

In the darkened dining rooms, dusty 1960s decor spoke of a long-gone age when men struck deals over hearty Burgundies, and women lunched over bottles of Chablis and salade vert. Thankfully, most of these scenarios have gone the way of the dinosaur.

But while classic French cuisine is at the heart of California’s cooking style — and most chefs cut their teeth making the mother sauces like béchamel and veloute — Sonoma County has only recently begun consistently embracing the authentic bistro-style and home cooking of France.

That’s why we’re saying a hearty, “Bonjour!,” to the new Brigitte Bistro in Petaluma.
Chef/owner Nick Ronan, who grew up between Paris and the south of France, is a guy who knows his French cuisine.

He’s worked in high-end European restaurants and co-founded several San Francisco restaurants, including the Pawn Shop, a now-shuttered dining experience requiring guests to enter through a faux pawn shop.

At Brigitte Bistro, he serves the kind of food he loves best: hearty bistro-style dishes like beef bourguignon and duck confit, along with tableside beef tartare and the requisite steak frites.
But instead of pandering to us, he brings the flavors of France directly to the table.

Ronan is a teddy bear of a guy with a propensity for enthusiastic hugging. His life motto (which everyone should have) is “Love. Food. Wine. Passion. Life. People,” which could come across as smarmy if he didn’t believe it wholeheartedly.

After going through several challenging years recently, including the death of his mother in 2023, he is even more dedicated to a life that embodies his personal tagline.

Bouef Bourguignon at Brigitte Bistro in Petaluma (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Bouef Bourguignon at Brigitte Bistro in Petaluma (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
French onion soup at Brigitte Bistro in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
French onion soup at Brigitte Bistro in Petaluma (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Housed in the former Wishbone and 3 Cooks Cafe space, which had become run down in recent years, Ronan gutted the interior and added walk-in bar seating, a chef’s counter overlooking the open kitchen, all new appliances and, somehow, a baby grand piano in the compact dining room.

After a few glasses of wine, Ronan said some piano-playing guests tickle the ivories with singalong favorites.

Wine is, naturally, a centerpiece of the menu. Most are approachably priced, with glasses mainly in the $12 to $18 range and bottles in the $32 to $80 range, though there are a handful over $200 if you’re feeling extravagant.

The wine list features Sonoma and Napa wines and well-selected French sippers that are excellent with food.

A few weeks after opening, service is on point, with several staff members coming from previous positions with Ronan. And, for patrons of the previous restaurants, the restroom is mercifully now inside. A minor detail, but funky, ice-cold potties accessed through the kitchen and down a claustrophobia-inducing alley always bugged me.

For Ronan, Brigitte Bistro isn’t a Michelin quest but a neighborhood gathering spot for a relaxed meal in the French tradition of feeding family and friends with love and passion.

Tableside tartare Brigitte Bistro in Petaluma (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Tableside tartare Brigitte Bistro in Petaluma (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Best bets

Onion Soup Gratinée, $16: I’ve finally found the onion soup that’s eluded me for decades. Not too sweet, not too salty, but just right. The kitchen doesn’t overwhelm the bowl with too many onions, and they’re caramelized exactly right. The melted Gruyere pulls like Rapunzel’s hair.

Tableside Steak Tartare, $18: A plate of individual ingredients — raw chopped beef, mustard, cornichons, capers and Worcestershire sauce — arrives at the table and is quickly swept into a bowl to be mixed before your eyes. It’s both a show and an appetizer.

Grandma Escargots, $16: To be fair, most escargots come from a can, and that’s not a fault. Most French fries come from a bag. Slathered in garlic and butter, they’re darn tasty, but even better is side tartine — a thick slab of bread smothered in parsley garlic butter with garlic confit. You’ll want to sleep alone after eating them.

Beef Bourguignon, $34: This is required dining. Impressive cubes of braised beef in a red wine-port broth melt with the touch of a fork into buttery parsnip puree. I’ve had good, bad and horrifying versions of this classic dish (which only a French person should ever be allowed to cook), but rarely anything worth noting. Ronan’s is outstanding (the one at Augie’s French in Santa Rosa is also incredible), and finally have a benchmark to beat.

Duck Confit, $36: This dish features another tableside performance: a top hat of mixed mushrooms and leeks in truffle sauce poured over the crisp-skinned duck. It is served with potatoes mille-feuille, thinly sliced potatoes cooked lasagna-style in fat. Order some extra bread to sop up all the extra sauce.

Chocolate Fondant, $12: If you’re a chocolate lover, this lava-style cake is for you. Served with sea salt caramel ice cream.

Childhood Vanilla Flan, $12: The name doesn’t do justice to the slice of creamy but slightly firm flan dotted with vanilla beans. Simple and not overly heavy with a perfect scoop of raspberry (on my visit) ice cream.

If you go

What: Brigitte Bistro

Why: Truly authentic French bistro fare made with love and passion is a much-appreciated addition to Sonoma County’s food scene.

Where: 841 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma

Information: 707-981-8381; brigittebistropetaluma.com

Hours: Open for dinner. Brunch coming soon.

Montage Healdsburg Releases the Resort’s First Estate-Grown Wines

Montage Healdsburg Surveyor Wines. (Christian Horan/Courtesy Montage Healdsburg)

It’s not unusual for a luxury resort to have its own private-label wines, but few can boast their own estate vineyards and signature wines crafted by a star winemaker. Those bragging rights now belong to Montage Healdsburg, which just released the first wines from its onsite vineyard.

The inaugural offerings, made under the Surveyor label by Aperture Cellars winemaker Jesse Katz, include two wines from the Alexander Valley appellation: a 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon and a 2021 Sauvignon Blanc.

“The vision for Montage Healdsburg has always been to create an authentic Wine Country experience for our guests,” said Allen Highfield, Montage Healdsburg’s general manager. “That’s why vineyards were woven into the fabric of the property’s design from the very beginning.”

Montage Healdsburg Surveyor Wines. (Rachel Weill/Courtesy Montage Healdsburg)
Montage Healdsburg has launched its own wine label, Surveyor Wines. (Rachel Weill/Courtesy Montage Healdsburg)

Available only to resort guests and residents, the Surveyor wines are fittingly exclusive for the acclaimed property, set among 250 acres of oak woodlands and vines in Healdsburg’s Parkland Farms neighborhood. In 2021, Travel + Leisure named Montage as one of the best new hotels in the world, and earlier this year, the resort received a coveted five-star rating in the Forbes Travel Guide Star Awards.

The wines were far from an afterthought for the luxury hotel’s developers. In 2016, years before construction began, the Montage team hired Katz to identify potential vineyard sites on the property. Three years later, with the winemaker’s guidance, planting began.

The estate now includes Malbec, Merlot, Petite Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc — totaling 15 acres throughout the property. For much of the plantings, Katz opted for high-density rows designed to produce more concentration in the fruit.

Accomplished winemaker Jesse Katz produces wines for Aperture Cellars, and Devil Proof Vineyards. Labels for his wines feature photographs taken by his well known photographer father, Andy Katz. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Accomplished winemaker Jesse Katz produces wines for Aperture Cellars, and Devil Proof Vineyards. Labels for his wines feature photographs taken by his well known photographer father, Andy Katz. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

Katz is known for making full-bodied wines with velvety tannins, and his skill has made him a sought-after winemaking consultant across Sonoma County. Before founding Aperture Cellars in 2009, he worked and trained at some of the world’s most prestigious wineries, including Screaming Eagle in Napa Valley and Pétrus in Bordeaux.

The Surveyor wines, named as a tribute to exploration and Sonoma County’s terroir, reflect Katz’s hallmark style. He describes the Cabernet Sauvignon as “complex and layered,” with aromas and flavors of ripe, black fruits. The Sauvignon Blanc shows a “decadent creaminess” tempered by bright notes of citrus and green apple.

Katz is already expanding the resort’s wine lineup.

“As the vines and the individual vineyard blocks mature, some of the unique characteristics are starting to show themselves,” he said. “In 2023, I designated a few blocks near the resort for a rosé program. These blocks were farmed and harvested intentionally and only for a rosé; they were picked a bit earlier to highlight the bright acidity, whole cluster pressed lightly for just a touch of beautiful color, and barrel fermented to give it complexity.”

The Olive Terrace at Montage Healdsburg's Hazel Hill restaurant. (Christian Horan Photography)
The Olive Terrace at Montage Healdsburg’s Hazel Hill restaurant. (Christian Horan/Courtesy of Montage Healdsburg)

To experience the wines, you’ll need to book a stay at Montage or dine at one of the property’s restaurants, including French-inspired farm-to-table destination Hazel Hill.

Resort guests also have the opportunity to witness the life cycle of the estate vineyard, from pruning to harvest. “All will be seen in real time as it takes place at the highest level,” Katz said. “We have also created a specific experience for Montage guests at Aperture winery, which overlooks the state-of-the-art facility where all the wines are made.”

Montage isn’t the only Northern California resort destination for estate-grown wines. Along with a 5-acre organic vineyard, The Four Seasons in Calistoga is home to Elusa winery, helmed by celebrated winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown.

Montage Healdsburg, 100 Montage Way, Healdsburg, 707-979-9000, montage.com/healdsburg

Italian Restaurant Opening in Sebastopol’s Former Flavor Bistro Space

After closing their Santa Rosa courthouse square restaurant in 2016, Flavor Bistro opened in Sebastopol in 2020. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

One of the most common reader questions in recent weeks has been regarding the demise of Sebastopol’s Flavor Bistro (7365 Healdsburg Ave.)

“Really sad that we lost our favorite place to go out and eat. It looked like another place was going to open as they posted something in the window, but now the posting is gone,” wrote Larry.

I’ve finally got an answer to who’s replacing Flavor Bistro — an Italian restaurant called Campanella.

Tom Rutledge of Petaluma’s RDMS Group, a hospitality-focused accounting company, is behind the new trattoria, which is anticipated to open in mid-to-late 2024. Other partners in the project, he said, are “all Bay Area folks.”

Development is in the early stages, so the final details are still blurry, but the concept isn’t.

“This is a love letter to my grandma and the food I ate growing up. That is my happy flavor profile,” said Rutledge, who hails from an Italian-American family in New York and hopes to recapture his family’s immigrant experience.

“I want a place that tastes like home. I guess I’m partially building a place to go eat myself,” he said of dishes such as chicken Parmesan, spaghetti and meatballs, and simple pizzas (a Mugnaini oven is being custom-built).

After recently realizing he had both a gluten and lactose intolerance, Rutledge also plans to bring plenty of plant-forward and gluten-free plates to the table.

“I want it to be a neighborhood spot with Italian American food and enjoying a cocktail on the patio,” he said.

Rutledge has worked in restaurant circles for years as a financial consultant and attended culinary school in San Francisco, but he doesn’t consider himself a chef. That, he said, would be a job for just the right person who will be excited about the kinds of food he’s passionate about.

According to Rutledge, Campanella literally translates to “little bell,” but it encompasses an untranslatable idea of connection within the sound of a town’s bell tower. You’re part of that community if you can hear the bell from your home.

Owners of Table Culture Provisions Opening New Petaluma Restaurant

Table Culture Provisions owner/chefs Stéphane Saint Louis, left, and Steven Vargas. (John Burgess/For Sonoma Magazine)

Petaluma’s Table Culture Provisions hopes to take over the former Quinua Cocina Peruana restaurant (500 Petaluma Blvd. S.) for a new, more casual concept tentatively called, The Restaurant at Metro. It will be a sister restaurant to Table Culture Provisions, continuing to serve its critically acclaimed tasting menu at the tiny 20-seat restaurant that opened in early 2022.

Just a block away from chef/owners Stephane Saint Louis and Steven Vargas’ first restaurant (though the two did a longtime pop-up during the Covid-19 pandemic, where we first experienced their fried chicken), the larger 40-seat restaurant that Quinua occupied for eight years. The Peruvian eatery closed in January over a lease dispute, reopening recently in Santa Rosa.

“I really think I’m bringing the right concept to the right market,” said Saint Louis, a former chef for Della Fattoria and The Shuckery.

Currently, TCP offers “Social Hour” with a more relaxed a la carte menu on Wednesdays and Thursdays from 4 to 6 p.m. It’s been a laboratory for recipes at the new restaurant, including a fondant of melted Red Hawk cheese with rosemary croutons, shaved truffles and honey that will appear on the Metro’s menu.

Haitian Rice and Beans from Chef Stephane Saint Louis of Table Culture Provisions Thursday, June 8, 2023, in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Haitian Rice and Beans from Chef Stephane Saint Louis of Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Fish "On the Yakitori" with grilled swordfish, leeks and saffron risotto from Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Fish”On the Yakitori” with grilled swordfish, leeks and saffron risotto from Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Other items on a sample menu for The Restaurant at Metro include a la carte items like a French onion tart with crispy leeks, fish crudo with citrus granita, spot prawns with duck fat crostini, and larger shareable entrees including whole root cauliflower with braised greens, corn soufflé and Parker House rolls (the rolls are frequently on the TCP menu), bone-in rib-eye, with marrow-baked beans, and fire-roasted mushrooms, and Saint Louis’ signature Rhum Baba with caramelized pineapple.

“We want a way to bring folks in without committing to a tasting menu. One of the biggest issues with our current space is that we can only seat so many people. Having a bigger space will allow us to do more,” he said.

Though details are still in flux, he hopes to open the new restaurant in the fall of 2024 with his wife, Marta, and Vargas.

“This won’t just be another restaurant. I’m putting some very deep thoughts and research into it. I want to keep elevating the cuisine in Sonoma and Petaluma,” he said.

This May Very Well Be the Most Unusual Tasting Room in Wine Country

Bart Hansen, winemaker/owner of Dane Cellars, has opened his tasting room in a over 100 year old, 14,000 gallon redwood wine tank in the Jack London Village Wednesday, April 10, 2024 in Glen Ellen. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Yes, Sonoma, you can now taste inside a giant, 120-year-old redwood wine tank—and a visit this summer is so worth your time.

After 38 harvests in Sonoma Valley, a tasting room of his own is a dream come true for winemaker Bart Hansen of Glen Ellen’s Dane Cellars.

“I’m a cellar rat,” says Hansen. “And what better place for a cellar rat to share his wines than in a tank? I always felt like if I ever opened a tasting room, it was going to have to be something special.”

Tasting inside a historic redwood wine tank is as much fun as you might imagine. First of all, it’s been beautifully redone inside, with a stand-up tasting bar and big photos of Hansen and his son, Dane, working the harvest.

The wines are top-notch: Hansen has connections to some of the valley’s best fruit, including Grenache and Mourvèdre from Rossi Ranch, Sauvignon Blanc from Beltane Ranch, and Zinfandel from Rancho Agua Caliente.

Bart Hansen, winemaker/owner of Dane Cellars, has opened his tasting room in a over 100 year old, 14,000 gallon redwood wine tank in the Jack London Village Wednesday, April 10, 2024 in Glen Ellen. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Bart Hansen, winemaker/owner of Dane Cellars, has opened his tasting room in a over 100 year old, 14,000 gallon redwood wine tank in the Jack London Village Wednesday, April 10, 2024 in Glen Ellen. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The tunes in the background will be great—Hansen is a connoisseur of Americana roots and country with an epic Spotify playlist (you know things are about to pop off when Texas singer-songwriter Hayes Carll hits the speakers).

And, true to his side gig as co-host of a popular wine podcast, Hansen can spin a terrific tale, from singing the praises of a favorite bottling to how he imagines it might have been to make wine back at the time the tank was first built (“most likely they were all blended lots, pressed off, loaded into barrels and then put on a train to the city”).

As a longtime member of the board of the local vintners and growers association, Hanson says he hopes guests gain a better understanding of the complexity and history of Sonoma Valley wines, and how important family farming is to the valley, including how much he and his fellow winemakers owe to the land.

In Hansen’s company, you can feel the history of the valley in a genuine, down-to-earth kind of way.

“This place has got soul,” says Hansen. “And that’s the most important thing.”

Across from the Jack London Village shopping center along Arnold Drive in Glen Ellen. Tastings from $45 per person. 707-529-5856, danecellars.com

Healdsburg’s Chalkboard Restaurant Closes Abruptly

The Chalkboard Restaurant waits to open before dinner in Healdsburg on Tuesday, June 11, 2013. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)

When the two Michelin-starred Cyrus restaurant left the tony Hotel Les Mars in 2012 after its purchase by entrepreneur Bill Foley’s entertainment group, there was a collective breath-holding over what would take over the space.

The answer was Chalkboard, an “upscale casual” Wine Country restaurant that opened under chef Shane McAnelly in 2013.

Though Healdsburgers can be a fickle bunch, especially when a beloved chef like Douglas Keane left abruptly over a dispute with Foley. But McAnelly’s homemade pasta and well-prepared dishes won over even jaded diners.

Shane McAnelly is named executive chef of Charlie Palmer Collective’s Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg in 2023. (Credit: Paige Green) Sept. 21, 2023
Shane McAnelly is named executive chef of Charlie Palmer Collective’s Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg in 2023. McAnelly honed his skills at Chalkboard, Brass Rabbit and Bricoleur before creating the new menu on the square in Healdsburg. (Paige Green)

After McAnelly’s departure in 2020 for Bricoleur Vineyards — he is now heading the kitchen of Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen — Chalkboard lost some of its luster.

On March 24, it shuttered for good, with some displaced staff moving to Foley’s steakhouse, Goodnight’s. However, a new restaurant is already in the works. Foley reps have confirmed that a “Latin cuisine” concept will take over this summer. The Hotel Les Mars website lists the new restaurant’s name as Arandas.

Road Trip in Guerneville Is Celeb Chef’s New Restaurant

At Road Trip restaurant in Guerneville. (Kelly Puleio Photography)

Inspired by her world travels, Guerneville chef and restaurateur Crista Luedtke is set to open Road Trip, a new restaurant featuring approachable, globally inspired eats (plus some of her nostalgic favorites) in late April.

The new, casual restaurant replaces Brot, a German eatery that shuttered this past December.

“I want it to have creativity and not stay in one lane. I want people to come up to the river and look at the menu and find four or five things they absolutely want to have,” Luedtke said.

Opening dishes include a banh mi panzanella salad with lemongrass chicken; spiced beef empanadas with aji verde; Texas BBQ flatbread with pulled pork, house barbecue sauce and dill pickles; fish and chips; a fried chicken sandwich; vegan coconut green curry; Mexican street corn salad; a Mexican-style hot dog with bacon, chili, crema and jalapeños; and the Mac Daddy burger with secret sauce, pickles, onions and a sesame milk bun. Most dishes range between $14 and $24. A $12 kids menu will be available.

At Road Trip restaurant in Guerneville. (Kelly Puleio Photography)
Mexican street corn salad from Road Trip restaurant in Guerneville. (Kelly Puleio Photography)
Crista Luedtke is opening Road Trip restaurant in Guerneville. (Kelly Puleio Photography)
Chef and restaurateur Crista Luedtke is opening Road Trip restaurant in Guerneville. (Kelly Puleio Photography)
At Road Trip restaurant in Guerneville. (Kelly Puleio Photography)
Crispy tofu with peanut sauce from Road Trip restaurant in Guerneville. (Kelly Puleio Photography)

As seasons change and Luedtke visits new locales, she’ll bring back some culinary inspiration to the Road Trip menu.

As part of its opening festivities, Road Trip will host a Big Queer Food Fest “On the Road” dinner April 14 at the restaurant. The event is part of a multicity tour for the 2025 festival celebrating LGBTQ+ chefs and their culinary contributions. The Road Trip dinner will feature chefs Tiffani Faison, Solarpunk Farms and ally chef Stephanie Izard for a five-course dinner from the restaurant’s menu, including wine pairings with LGBTQ+ winemakers.

Chad Hahne and David Lewis, television and film producers who have worked with many food-related shows, including Guy’s Grocery Games and Tournament of Champions, filmed in Santa Rosa, founded the event.

Tickets for the event are available at bigqueerfoodfest.com.

2 Sonoma County Ramen Spots Named Among Best in California

Seafood Ramen with a medley of scallops, shrimp and squid in a shiso ponzu broth from Taste of Tea in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

National Ramen Day is April 4 and Sonoma County has a variety of great ramen places where you can celebrate the day with panache, including two restaurants that were just spotlighted on Yelp. The Taste of Tea in Healdsburg and Kiraku Sushi and Ramen in Santa Rosa have made Yelp’s list of the 100 best ramen spots in California.

Coming in at No. 63 on the list, The Taste of Tea (109 North St., Healdsburg) is currently averaging a 4.5 star rating based on 194 reviews. Popular dishes mentioned on Yelp include Miso Ramen, Curry Ramen, Gyoza Ramen, Yaki Udon, Yaki Soba and Oyako.

“It started as a tea place and it still is but now it’s also a spectacular Ramen place,” said Yelper Rockaway Rob N. from Tamarac, Florida.

The Taste of Tea is a family-owned and operated business founded by Executive Chef Nozomu (Nez) Tokugawa and his wife Donna, with daughter Tai serving as a co-owner and General Manager.

“If I lived in Healdsburg, I’d be a regular here,” said yelper Natalie M. from Pasadena, California, who described the establishment as “a really cute, clean, charming spot with great service and a fantastic bowl of ramen.”

Kiraku Sushi and Ramen (1985 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa) came in at No. 87 on the Yelp list of top ramen spots with a 4.4 star rating based on 287 reviews.

The restaurant’s popular dishes mentioned on Yelp include: Spicy Miso Ramen, Curry Ramen, Pork Tonkatsu Ramen, Tonkotsu Ramen, Spicy Tan Tan Ramen, Fried Coconut Shrimp, Pork Dumplings.

Aside from the tasty ramen and other dishes, a big draw for many Yelpers is the special way the food is brought out.

“We had a wonderful experience here. Kids loved the robot and conveyor delivery system. We all loved the food! Yum,” wrote Yelper Betsy W. from Hillsborough, California.

More great ramen

Sonoma County has plenty of other great ramen spots. Miso Good Ramen (507 Fourth St.) and Raku Ramen and Rolls ( 2424 Midway Drive) are two more Santa Rosa restaurants that specialize in the cuisine.

Miso Good Ramen’s entrees include a Miso Butter Veggie ramen with with fermented soybean broth, okra, corn, sprouts, mushrooms and garlic seaweed. Raku Ramen and Rolls features tonkotsu, shoyu and vegan ramen bowls.

In Sebastopol, Ramen Gaijin (6948 Sebastopol Ave.) serves the popular Spicy Tan Tan Ramen with Sapporo noodles, sesame, scallion, pork belly chashu, spicy ground pork, charred cabbage, woodier and a 6-minute egg. And, in Windsor, Qimura (8960 Brooks Road S.) serves excellent beef or pork chase shoyu ramen.

A recent food trend pairs the flavors of Mexico, the consommé and beef of birria (a long-simmered chile-infused stew) with ramen noodles. Tacos Los Iniguez (460 Mission Blvd., Santa Rosa) and Jalapeño Mexican Grill (1630 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa) both serve this Birria Ramen.

A Sweet Farm Wedding in Sonoma Features Lots of Flowers and a Celebrity Sheep

Living in Berkeley, Madeline and Matt fell in love with the idea of escaping to the country for their wedding. The couple celebrated their nuptials at Beltane Ranch. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)

“Wally is always trying to steal my thunder,” says Madeline Johnson.

She’s talking about her wedding day, so you’d think maybe Wally is her husband. But no, Wally the Wooly Weeder is the celebrity sheep who greets guests at Glen Ellen’s Beltane Ranch, where Madeline Johnson and Matt Secrest tied the knot this past June. “It was an explosion of flowers, of color, and there were chickens running around, and that’s all I ever wanted,” says Madeline.

Madeline and Wally the Wooly Weeder. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)
Madeline and Matt at Beltane Ranch. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)

Living in Berkeley, the two fell in love with the idea of escaping to the country for their wedding. “It’s a food mecca,” explains Matt, an epidemiologist.

At their ceremony, they sang a song that Matt wrote and exchanged vows under a giant oak tree in front of 110 guests decked out in vibrant, flowery dresses and pastel suits. Their wedding cake was in the shape of a big, plump chicken. And to make guests feel at home, the dress code listed on their wedding website was: “Whatever you can chase chickens in.”

The wedding cake was in the shape of a big, plump chicken. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)

“Every time we go to Sonoma County, it’s such a warm place,” says Madeline, who works at the tech company Yeti. “It’s a slower pace compared to the city, and the people you meet are unbelievably friendly and inviting.”

The couple served rosé and Zinfandel made by Beltane Ranch, along with their own “foot stomped weddin’ wine.” And yes, at some point, as they looked around during the rollicking reception, there was Wally the Wooly Weeder, wearing a custom flower crown they had made especially for him. It was his day, too.

The tables are set under the oak trees at Beltane Ranch. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)
The tables are set under the oak trees at Beltane Ranch. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)
Table setting at Beltane Ranch. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)

Resources

Planner and designer: Blissful Events

Location: Beltane Ranch

Photographer: Hazel Photo

Rentals: Encore Events Rentals

Floral design: Mae Flowers

Hair and makeup: The Powder Room

Caterer: Sage Catering

Band: Ticket To Ride

Cake and dessert bar: Supreme Sweets

Transportation: Pure Luxury

Caricatures: Billie Wylie

Madeline and Matt on their wedding day. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)
Madeline and Matt on their wedding day. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)

Table for 1? The Best Restaurants for Solo Dining Sonoma County

Truffle fries from Willi’s Wine Bar in Santa Rosa. (Willi’s Wine Bar)

I’m always surprised at the number of people — especially women — who say they’re uncomfortable dining alone. Solo-eating adventures are such a treat, giving me the time and space to really enjoy my meal in peace, undistracted by bored teenagers or hangry spouses. Give me a table for one or, even better, a seat at the bar — preferably off to the side with a great view of the dining room action — and I’m a happy camper.

Yes, you may get a sidelong look of pity when you raise a single finger indicating “party of one,” but there’s nothing sad or lonely about it. I’m definitely having more fun eating with myself than the silent couple at the next table or exhausted parents desperately trying to enjoy a forced “date night.”  I often have great conversations with other single diners when I’m feeling friendly. Or bury my face in a book (or phone) if I’m not.

I can’t think of any restaurant I wouldn’t go to solo, but as a lone diner, it can feel conspicuous at bustling, family-friendly restaurants or high-end eateries that cater to couples or groups. Splitting the difference, I’ve compiled a list of casual spots with great bar seating, great people-watching, great food and a welcoming atmosphere for anyone eating unaccompanied.

A few pro tips: If you’re going to sit at the bar, ask first if it’s okay to order food and eat there. Otherwise, you may be waiting for a menu that will never come. I like to dine on the earlier side when I’m alone. Single diners can get overlooked during very busy times. Finally, you’re absolutely not obligated to drink alcohol while eating at the bar, but it’s polite to make way for imbibing customers if the bar gets busy. And make sure to tip your bartender!

The best restaurants for solo dining

Valette: Though there are only a handful of seats, dining at the bar here is one of my absolute favorite Healdsburg experiences. While it’s still a white linen napkin affair, the elevated food feels somehow more approachable while I’m perched on a barstool. While the entire tasting menu at the bar might be awkward, it’s a perfect spot to hunker down with a glass of wine and a plate of duck breast with coastal huckleberries (and maybe a dessert). 344 Center St., Healdsburg, valettehealdsburg.com.

Duke’s Spirited Cocktails: Go on the earlier side to grab a seat at the bar (or settle into a bar table). Order a burger from next door’s Iggy’s Organic Burgers, dive into a Manhattan and watch the cast of characters parade through the door. 111 Plaza St., Healdsburg, drinkatdukes.com.

Lo and Behold: You will rarely be the only singleton at this post-work hospitality industry favorite. Bar seats are a premium, but there are plenty of other spots (including outdoors) to enjoy a cocktail and some “Almost Famous” chicken strips. 214 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, loandbeholdca.com.

J. Brix Sunrise Over Skin at The Redwood natural wine bar in Sebastopol on Friday, February 24, 2023. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
J. Brix Sunrise Over Skin at The Redwood natural wine bar in Sebastopol on Friday, February 24, 2023. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Fried Potatoes with pimenton aioli at The Redwood in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Fried Potatoes with pimenton aioli at The Redwood in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

The Redwood: If you’re a fan of natural wines, you’ve already discovered this hot spot. But if you’re wine-curious, get an education and some tasty risotto at the bar or in the dining room. 234 S. Main St., Sebastopol, theredwoodwine.com.

Sushi Kosho: Soft seating in the new lounge area or at the slim bar are both great spots for dining alone, but you can also plop down at a table outside and enjoy watching evening shoppers.  6750 McKinley St., Sebastopol, theredwoodwine.com.

Bloom Carneros: Though you’ll often find families here on the weekend, this mostly outdoor restaurant is always a breath of fresh air, letting you clear your mind while nibbling on chef Jennifer McMurry’s seasonally-inspired dishes. 22910 Broadway, Sonoma, bloomcarneros.com.

At Bloom Carneros in Sonoma. (Daniel E. Kokin)
At Bloom Carneros in Sonoma. (Daniel E. Kokin)
Mushroom Cubano with a pinot noir from Kivelstadt Cellars and WineGarten at the corner of Hwy 12 and Hwy 121 in Sonoma Thursday, October 20, 2022. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Mushroom Cubano with a pinot noir from Bloom Carneros (formerly Kivelstadt Cellars and WineGarten) in Sonoma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Oso Sonoma: Bar seating is plentiful, and the excellent collection of small plates — including ceviche, mac and cheese or mole-braised tacos — is impressive. 9 East Napa St., Sonoma, ososonoma.com.

Willi’s Wine Bar: I sometimes grab a happy hour nosh and a glass of wine just because it’s Wednesday at this tucked-away Santa Rosa institution. You’ll never feel rushed nibbling on your crab tacos and can stroll around the neighborhood to stretch your legs afterward. 1415 Town and Country Drive, Santa Rosa., starkrestaurants.com.

Crab tacos at Willi's Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on opening day of the new location after the Tubbs Fire. Heather Irwin/PD
Crab tacos at Willi’s Wine Bar in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

The Spinster Sisters: The bar is the centerpiece of the dining room and a perfect spot to grab a light dinner on your own. Braised beans and greens are a favorite, but smaller plates like smoked trout dip are lovely. 401 S. A St., Santa Rosa, thespinstersisters.com.

Belly Left Coast Kitchen: If you want a little action but don’t have a date, head to this casual downtown Santa Rosa restaurant and grab a seat at the bar or outside. Happy hour is always hopping; there’s plenty of action to watch streetside, and the wall of taps is always flowing. 523 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, bellyleftcoastkitchenandtaproom.com.

Geyserville Gun Club: Shockingly good food and cocktails at this small town bar owned by a mega-talented chef. 21025 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, geyservillegunclub.com.

Louisiana Hash with onions, bell peppers, bacon, potatoes, cheddar, eggs, herbs, mushrooms and spicy seasoning from J & M’s Midtown Cafe, Thursday, Jan. 18, 2024, in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Louisiana Hash with onions, bell peppers, bacon, potatoes, cheddar, eggs, herbs, mushrooms and spicy seasoning from J & M’s Midtown Cafe in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Breakfast and brews

Tea Room Cafe: This charming little cafe offers breakfast all day as well as simple sandwiches and tasty tea elixirs. 316 Western Ave., Petaluma, tearoomcafe.com.

J&M Midtown Cafe: Though the vibe and the menu are classic greasy spoon, the chef takes special care to add special touches like house-smoked salmon and extra-yummy Hollandaise made from scratch. 1422 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, jm-midtowncafe.com.

Brew Coffee and Beer House: Beer and coffee are top-notch at this inclusive neighborhood cafe, along with creative sandwiches and toasts. We love the laid-back vibe and artsy crowd with our Golden Lattes. 555 Healdsburg Ave., Santa Rosa, brewcoffeeandbeer.com.