Owners of Valley Ford Restaurant Taking Over Lucas Wharf in Bodega Bay

The Lucas Wharf Restaurant and Bar in Bodega Bay closed down suddenly and laid off all their staff, leaving a note on the door stating “Temporarily Closed,” Monday, March 6, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The owners of Valley Ford’s Rocker Oysterfeller’s restaurant are taking over the shuttered Lucas Wharf restaurant in Bodega Bay, with opening slated for early summer.

Longtime restaurateurs Brandon Guenther and Shona Campbell have confirmed that the dining destination overlooking the bay would be a third location for their Southern-style roadhouse eateries. Their Valley Ford and Placerville restaurants will remain in operation seven days per week for lunch and dinner.

“Brandon and I hold this place very dear to our hearts and have amazing memories relaxing at the bar and restaurant overlooking the stunning bay views ever since we moved out to the Sonoma Coast,” said a statement on Rocker Oysterfeller’s Instagram page. “When we had the opportunity to open up our third location in the town that we love and call home, we just had to say yes.”

The new menu will include additional steak and seafood options as well as their much-loved buttermilk fried chicken, bacon-wrapped shrimp and grits, barbecued and raw oysters, and Smashburgers. The new location will also include seasonal craft cocktails, local beers and a curated wine program.

Lucas Wharf, an iconic Bodega Bay restaurant, closed down suddenly and laid off all its staff in March 2023, as reported by The Press Democrat.

More details on the opening of Rocker Oysterfeller’s Seaside coming soon.

How Is Climate Change Impacting Sonoma County’s Ecosystems? Local Scientists Find Out

Imagine taking an empty picture frame and laying it flat on a grassy meadow on the same day each spring. Inside that rectangle is a microcosm—a living, breathing universe unto itself. In the height of the season it might be buzzing with pollinators. A snake might slither past or a gopher might pop up. Filling the diorama, native grasses and wildflowers jockey for space with invasive species in a patchwork quilt of ground cover.

If you were to study the picture inside that frame, year after year, measuring how it changes and evolves, the data would unfold like a time-lapse video, charting the effects of extreme weather patterns, non-native plants, controlled grazing, and rampant wildfire—the real-time window into the local impacts of climate change.

In Sonoma County, we know intuitively that our landscape is changing. From one year to the next, we seesaw from extreme heat waves and drought to epic rains and floods. Call it climate change, call it global warming. As fires scorched our land, some call it life or death.

“The ‘change’ part in climate change is that we don’t know what’s coming. We just know it’s changing, and that makes it extremely difficult to predict what the effects are ~ researcher Sarah Gordon

But spring arrives, and the landscape regenerates. Some years, lupines and poppies in our meadows bloom weeks earlier than usual. Other years, migrating Canadian geese arrive later. After the Tubbs Fire, bright blue lazuli bunting songbirds appeared for the first time in years. Some seeds can lie dormant for decades, only triggered to germinate by fire.

Timing is everything. Humans invented clocks, but nature keeps its own calendar. Scientists call it “phenology,” the study of the timing of biological life cycles like flowering and mating and how those cycles are influenced by climate. From grasslands to wetlands, scientists fan out across Sonoma County, documenting its diverse ecosystems and their inhabitants.

At Pepperwood Preserve, scientists lay down white-tubed “quadrats” and measure the percentage of cover of native perennial grasses, invasive exotic annuals and wildflowers. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
At Pepperwood Preserve, scientists lay down white-tubed “quadrats” and measure the percentage of cover of native perennial grasses, invasive exotic annuals and wildflowers. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Scientists measure the percentage of cover of native perennial grasses (California oatgrass, blue wildrye), invasive exotic annuals (barbed goatgrass, ripgut grass) and wildflowers (buttercups, native clover). (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Scientists measure the percentage of cover of native perennial grasses (California oatgrass, blue wildrye), invasive exotic annuals (barbed goatgrass, ripgut grass) and wildflowers (buttercups, native clover). (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

Every May at Pepperwood Preserve in the Mayacamas, researchers have been studying the same square-meter grassland plots, down to the centimeter, for the past 13 years. Instead of picture frames, they lay down white-tubed “quadrats” and measure the percentage of cover of native perennial grasses (California oatgrass, blue wildrye), invasive exotic annuals (barbed goatgrass, ripgut grass) and wildflowers (buttercups, native clover).

“If you look at every single vegetation map of Sonoma County, there will be many different forest types and shrub types, but when it comes to grasslands, it’s just listed as ‘grasslands.’ You know why? Because you can’t see it from space. You have to put your nose into it and really bend over to see it,” says Michelle Halbur, ecology research manager at the 3,200-acre preserve. “And what you see is incredibly diverse, on small and big spatial scales. Grasslands are very patchy. They’re dynamic over time, and they’re hard to categorize. They’re like the black box of vegetation types.”

Ecologist Sarah Gordon studies tiny, endangered plants in seasonal vernal pools, like this one along the Laguna de Santa Rosa near Sebastopol. Vernal pools appear with winter rains and disappear by late spring. Gordon is hoping to better understand how changes in temperature affect plant health. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Ecologist Sarah Gordon studies tiny, endangered plants in seasonal vernal pools, like this one along the Laguna de Santa Rosa near Sebastopol. Vernal pools appear with winter rains and disappear by late spring. Gordon is hoping to better understand how changes in temperature affect plant health. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

In the Laguna de Santa Rosa watershed, plant ecologist Sarah Gordon studies vernal pools, the seasonal, swimming-pool-sized bodies of water that appear almost magically with the onset of winter rains and dry up by April or May, as part of a program started in 2006. These extremely fragile ecosystems are home to the endangered California tiger salamander and three endangered plants—Burke’s goldfields, Sonoma sunshine, and Sebastopol meadowfoam—which exist almost exclusively in Sonoma County.

On a recent morning, Gordon and a colleague set out with clipboards, making ripples across the pools in knee-high boots, to collect observational data, noting water depth and plant populations. Wading across one pool, Gordon spotted thin, green stems of Sonoma sunshine sprouting through the black mirrored water. A closer look revealed a string of tiger salamander eggs attached to a stem. Over the past few years, she’s witnessed “pretty extreme algal blooms” in the vernal pools, similar to toxic algae blooms on the Russian River, which can threaten fragile species.

At Pepperwood Preserve, a solar-powered weather station provides researchers with information on long-term weather patterns. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
At Pepperwood Preserve, a solar-powered weather station provides researchers with information on long-term weather patterns. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Each year, as more extreme weather extreme weather conditions impact conditions impact the land, one of of The questions q uestions researchers hope researchers hope to answer is, answer WI p lant s How Willthe plants animals respond? But in the same breath, they also Willour community respond? And animals resp Ond? BU in same breath, they also want to know, how Willour community respond?
At Pepperwood Preserve.  (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

“The ‘change’ part in climate change is that we don’t know what’s coming,” says Gordon. “We just know it’s changing, and that makes it extremely difficult to predict what the effects are going to be.”

This time of year, before the rolling hills of Sonoma County turn from Irish green to golden rye, students at Casa Grande High School in Petaluma flock to the school’s nursery to help repot seedlings. The seedlings will eventually find a home in restored grasslands as part of a program facilitated by Petaluma’s Point Blue Conservation Science. At Tolay Lake Regional Park outside Sonoma, students have helped restore over 4,000 plants.

Each year, as more extreme weather extreme weather conditions impact conditions impact the land, one of the questions researchers hope to answer is, how will the plants and animals respond? But in the same breath, they also want to know, how will our community respond?

Students also collect native grass seeds near future restoration sites. The seeds are brought back to the nursery to be weighed and catalogued. Then, depending on what kind of seed it is, they will encourage it to germinate—some seeds need to be roughed up and soaked in water or even dipped in acid to help break the seed coat. “There’s kind of a secret recipe for each species of seed,” explains Point Blue’s Isaiah Thalmayer.

If all goes well, by next spring Casa Grande students will repeat the ritual of replanting their carefully tended seedlings into larger pots.

But for now, students and researchers watch and learn. Each year, as more extreme weather conditions impact our grassland and wetland ecosystems, one of the questions they hope to answer is, how will plants and animals respond?

And in the same breath, they also want to know, how will our community respond?

In the plant nursery at Petaluma's Casa Grande High School, students team up with researchers from Point Blue Conservation Science to raise native plants for restoration projects, including one at nearby Tolay Lake Regional Park. Students gain hands-on experience in germinating the seeds of different types of grasses and shrubs and learn how researchers use stands of native plants to sequester carbon. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
In the plant nursery at Petaluma’s Casa Grande High School, students team up with researchers from Point Blue Conservation Science to raise native plants for restoration projects, including one at nearby Tolay Lake Regional Park. Students gain hands-on experience in germinating the seeds of different types of grasses and shrubs and learn how researchers use stands of native plants to sequester carbon. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
In the plant nursery at Petaluma's Casa Grande High School, students team up with researchers from Point Blue Conservation Science to raise native plants for restoration projects, including one at nearby Tolay Lake Regional Park. Students gain hands-on experience in germinating the seeds of different types of grasses and shrubs and learn how researchers use stands of native plants to sequester carbon. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
In the plant nursery at Petaluma’s Casa Grande High School. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

Along the Laguna de Santa Rosa, the community seems up to the challenge. One Fulton area landowner had no idea what a vernal pool was when they purchased their property. At first, they were nervous about caring for endangered plants. But after a few years, “they changed the whole trajectory of what they are planning to do with their property,” says Gordon. “They installed fencing and brought conservation grazing onto the property, on their own time and on their own dime. They have done everything they can to help take care of these endangered plants.”

At Pepperwood, volunteer outings and forest and grassland workshops are offered several times a year. “We’re trying to help build the skill set so folks can go back to their own land, their own homes, and apply the work that we’re doing and the monitoring that we’re doing,” says Halbur.

“It’s important for the long term, not just because climate change is happening, but to ensure that we are always learning. We’re always asking of the land itself, how is it doing? Are we doing a good job?”

Ecologist Michelle Halbur kneels beside a one-meter square quadrat, which she uses to document the distribution of grassland plants. Halbur has been visting the exact same grassland study sites each spring for the past 13 years. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Ecologist Michelle Halbur kneels beside a one-meter square quadrat, which she uses to document the distribution of grassland plants. Halbur has been visting the exact same grassland study sites each spring for the past 13 years. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
The small-scale ecosystem inside a one-meter square quadrat at Pepperwood Preserve in Santa Rosa. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

To learn more

Pepperwood Preserve: Wildflower tours and hikes each Saturday in April. pepperwoodpreserve.org

Point Blue Conservation Science: pointblue.org

Laguna de Santa Rosa Foundation: Spring ecology workshops in March and April. lagunafoundation.org

A Family of Seven Turns an Old Sonoma Schoolhouse Into a Gorgeous Home

“Not for the faint of heart,” was the line in the real estate listing that caught the eye of designer Eva Kunkle. She and her husband, Aaron, are childhood sweethearts who each come from families that worked in the building trades—so they were used to a good project. But this particular undertaking would need everything the couple and their five sons had to give.

The year was 2013, and the listing was for the nearly 150-year-old former Green Valley schoolhouse, located a few minutes outside the town of Graton. It had stopped operating as a school in 1962, and since then had been used as a childcare center, a polling location, a church—and more recently, a training center for Graton Fire Department.

Schoolhouse home transformation in Sonoma County.
A couple with five sons make a long-abandoned schoolhouse their forever home. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

After several decades without permanent tenants, the building was in rough shape.

“The windows were all blacked out from the fire department training, and you could see the sky through holes in the ceiling,” Eva recalls. “And the hill in back had sloped and sloped until it essentially buried the whole back of the school.”

The couple wrote the fire department’s board of directors a letter, explaining the connection they felt to the building, and how the schoolhouse seemed like the place they should be raising their family of five boys, ages 7 to 12 at the time.

“It felt like this place was a part of our family, that it was meant to be—the building of boys, and the building of a family,” says Eva.

And the board voted to sell the building to them.

Renovations took several years. Eva and Aaron did most of the work themselves, while the boys adventured around the property and gave tours to the many locals who stopped in to see what was going on at the old schoolhouse.

“It was a wild and crazy time,” laughs Eva. “We would be here all day, and the kids would run around and play. We had a big tent set up in back with Legos and a queen-size bed and a Persian rug. We would just work, and then we’d barbecue dinner on the grill outside and go back to our rental and throw the five boys into the tub. Line them up, scrub them down.”

“They loved it,” says Aaron. “They thought it was funny. They thought they were cars, going through the car wash.”

The couple say that they focused all their intentions on knowing that while the work was tough, it was also a special time with their boys that they’d never get back.

“I couldn’t do it again, ’cause I’m in a different season,” says Eva. “But at the time, it really did create this idea of, like, life doesn’t have to be this perfect 72-degree situation. You can be creative with the way you live, and be resilient, and do hard things to create a future.”

That future is now evident in the many details and memories contained in the schoolhouse. The building still retains traces of its former life, albeit adapted to the needs of a large family.

The center hallway. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

One enters the schoolhouse up a set of new front steps, through the original schoolhouse door, and into a center hallway. Off that hallway, there were originally two large classrooms, one to the left and one to the right, with a big washroom and the principal’s office in the back. Eva and Aaron remade the fifth through eighth grade classroom on the left into a large family room, with the school’s raised stage as their dining room and a kitchen and pantry built into the former cloakroom along the back wall.

Across the hall, the former kindergarten through fourth grade classroom is now a dormitory, with six cubby-style beds built into the back wall and big tables and couches for the boys, now 18 to 23 years old. The boys share a bathroom with the original vintage trough-style schoolhouse sink. And Eva and Aaron turned the principal’s office into a portion of a new primary suite, with an added-on bedroom that looks out to the backyard through French doors rescued from a salvage yard.

Schoolhouse home transformation in Sonoma County.
The Graton-area schoolhouse had been vacant for years when it was purchased by the Kunkle family. They turned the upper grade classroom into their family room, with restored windows and a large dining area where the school stage used to be. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Schoolhouse home transformation in Sonoma County.
The school bathroom is now a bathroom for the five sons in the family, with an original Kohler trough-style sink. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

In the bright family room, the couple painstakingly restored the unique outswing windows, scraping off years of paint, putting in new glass, and reworking the original mechanisms inside. Eva spent months standing on scaffolding to spackle and sand the original ceiling plaster, which she was determined to save. Now, sitting in the family room, with its 12-foot ceilings and broad banks of restored windows, is almost like being outdoors.

“It feels special all the time. Imagine all the leaves bright green in spring, and it’s like you are in a tree house, the most beautiful tree house,” says Eva. “Watching the light play around with the shadows and the oak trees and the sun in the morning, it’s just beautiful.”

“The sun comes up, and this house is literally like a catcher’s mitt, catching all the light,” says Aaron. “It’s unbelievable; it just glows.”

The green of the oaks in spring is intense, and the front yard is filled with wild onions that bloom like little white bells. Eva likes to leave the onion flowers to grow as late as she can. Eventually the other wild grasses around them get so tall that the yard must be mowed, and then “the whole property smells like onions for like three days,” she laughs.

The rooms have a layered and authentic sense of history, filled with simple, natural pieces and gorgeous textures. Eva, who designs and styles interiors professionally, found nearly all of the furnishings at local thrift shops and secondhand stores.

“I really love to see the wood and concrete and metal. They’re honest materials. And I love patina and age—worn things that are made really well. That’s my style.”

The new kitchen cabinets were custom milled from reclaimed wood, and Eva chose brass pulls that echo the schoolhouse’s original hardware.

Sonoma schoolhouse transformation.
A warm, rustic simplicity in the primary bedroom, with French doors rescued from a salvage yard. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Schoolhouse home transformation in Sonoma County.
A reading nook in the home. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

After the house was finished, the family used their restoration skills to help others in the community. Eva and Aaron got back into construction full-time, rebuilding family homes in Santa Rosa’s Coffey Park neighborhood after the Tubbs Fire.

“We had literally 16 projects pinned up on the wall of the dining room,” recalls Aaron. “It was, like, how could you sit here with a crew you’d just taught to build a house and not want to help.”

Moving forward, the couple say that they’re reaching a turning point, as the boys start to transition to more independent lives as young adults. There aren’t quite as many Nerf battles happening these days, as the daily rumble of a home filled with young boys starts to go down a notch.

Sonoma schoolhouse transformation.
Flowers and vintage finds. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Schoolhouse home transformation in Sonoma County.
Eva and Aaron Kunkle in the dining room. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

Eva and Aaron are launching a new design/ build business focusing on custom, finely detailed accessory dwelling units, or ADUs. ADUs, they explain, allow families to stay together and retain flexibility as their housing needs change—offering young adults an affordable place to live, or empty nesters a smaller home near their children. It’s a project that feels right to Eva and Aaron at this stage of their lives.

But the couple still remember fondly the all-encompassing early days of the renovation, and how they’d rope pairs of boys into giving neighbors a tour of the project.

“Now that we’re finished, we don’t get as many former students stopping in. But that was a sweet season… This is such an important piece of property, not just to us, but to the people who went to school here,” says Eva.

Looking back, Eva and Aaron say the schoolhouse restoration has connected their family to something larger than themselves—an entire community of locals who knew and loved the old building.

“And we weren’t just renovating a schoolhouse,” says Eva. “We were raising men.”

Share Your Restaurant Recommendations, Questions With Our Dining Editor

A tray full of ribs and brisket and all the fixings of Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ at Old Possum Brewing Co. in Santa Rosa. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)

Recently I reached out to readers asking for their restaurant recommendations and questions. You didn’t disappoint. In fact, I got so much great feedback, I’m going to add a new reader question to my Bite Club column each week. (Bite Club is published in The Press Democrat on Sundays and on sonomamag.com weekly.)

Here’s our first inquiry from Melissa: “I’ve been waiting with bated breath for the opening of A&M BBQ that was supposed to occur April 1 in Sebastopol. Are you aware of any snag keeping it from opening as planned?”

Answer: Marvin’s BBQ owner Marvin Mckinzy said he’s working on some last-minute issues with Sonoma County that arose and the restaurant will be closed until next Thursday. The collaboration also is being finalized and the grand opening pushed back. Watch for more details on their Instagram page, Instagram.com/ambbqllc.

Share your restaurant recommendations and questions by sending an email

Popular Petaluma Restaurant Finds New Home in Santa Rosa

Ensalada Jardinera, with quinoa, bell pepper, celery, lime and cherry tomatoes and a purple corn based Chicha Morada drink from Quinua Cocina Peruana in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

After closing his popular Petaluma restaurant over a lease dispute in January, restaurateur Juan Gutierrez was determined to find a new location for his Peruvian cuisine. Three months later, he’s poised to open Quinua Cocina Peruana in Santa Rosa at the former Spring Lake Chinese restaurant (4219 Montgomery Drive).

“We always loved Santa Rosa, and I want to share my food and culture,” Gutierrez said.

The menu will be similar to his location in Petaluma, offering classic Peruvian dishes, including Papa a la Huancaina (potatoes with yellow peppers and cream), a selection of ceviches, Lomo Saltado (beef in soy sauce with fries), Peruvian-style paella, braised lamb shank, Pato Huanchano (duck marinated in orange juice and peppers), and a new selection of salads and soups.

More details when the restaurant opens in early April.

This article is part of this week’s Bite Club column. Read it here

Peek Inside ‘Karate Kid’ Screenwriter’s Japanese-Style Sonoma Home

Along the southwestern slope of the Mayacamas, some 1,400 feet above the town of Sonoma, screenwriter and vintner Robert Kamen and his wife, Evonne Kamen Sproat, live in a much-longed-for contemporary Japanese-style hilltop home.

It is their oasis and their dream, they say—a place they never really imagined they would call home. But here, surrounded by 50 acres of organically grown Syrah, Cabernet, and Sauvignon Blanc, along with centuries-old oaks and heritage olive trees, the couple feels at peace.

At sunset, they relax on the expansive deck in modern chairs that hint of an Adirondack past, sipping a rosé made by Robert from grapes grown on the property, with their two standard poodles at their side, siblings named Kashmir and Kaia. The view they take in at the end of each day together sweeps broadly across the entire San Francisco Bay, with silhouettes of Mount Tam, the bridges, and even Mount Diablo.

The couple say it’s serendipity that brought them to this life, at this rugged site and on this rugged land, which lies 5 miles uphill from downtown Sonoma, the last two of those miles along a mostly dirt road.

“I live a 24-hour romance with the vineyard and with Vonnie. We live in the bubble of love,” explains Robert, a screenwriter known for “The Karate Kid,” “Taps,” “The Fifth Element,” and some two-dozen other blockbuster films. “I just knew I always wanted to live here, and I found the perfect person to do it with. If there’s someone who likes living here more than me, it’s Vonnie.”

A deep soaking tub on a bed of smooth river stones brings a sense of calm to the primary bath.
A deep soaking tub on a bed of smooth river stones brings a sense of calm to the primary bath. (Adam Potts)

Back in the late 1970s, it was Robert who stumbled upon the site of his home while on a hike with a friend. At the time, the place was strewn with rocks and ryegrass, but Robert found himself utterly seduced by the view. He put down $135,000 to buy the land, the entire paycheck from the first screenplay he ever sold. It was a leap of faith for sure, as there was no electricity at the site, no water, not even a road. Essentially, he bought the view.

For a couple of years, Robert simply hiked and explored the land, getting to know the place. Later, the Bronx native built a simple, rustic studio on the property—a retreat from his apartment on Central Park in New York City, where he raised three daughters from an earlier marriage.

Viticulturist Phil Coturri helped Robert plant his first organic vineyard, convinced that the rocky, volcanic soil could grow great wine. Kamen Estate’s first harvest was in 1986, and for a while, Robert sold the fruit to other producers. But soon, he was drawn to the allure of winemaking, and the first Kamen Estate release was bottled in 1999.

A simplified palette of Corten steel, iron, wood, and concrete complement the structural rammed earth walls and keep the focus on the surrounding landscape and vineyards. (Adam Potts)
A simplified palette of Corten steel, iron, wood, and concrete complement the structural rammed earth walls and keep the focus on the surrounding landscape and vineyards. (Adam Potts)

Robert left New York to live full time in the small studio on the vineyard in 2010. But these days, he and Evonne, who have been together 11 years, live in a larger Japanese-style contemporary home, designed by Santa Rosa architect Jessie Whitesides of Asquared Studios and completed in 2019.

The day of their first project meeting, Whitesides started sketching out designs with a black marker. “He said it needed to be a pretty simple thing,” recalls Whitesides. “I said ‘I see a couple of interlocking boxes, flat roof.’” And that was it—the basic vision for the project was in place.

“I probably never would have built the house without Vonnie,” Robert says of the three-year construction project Whitesides and her team oversaw. Evonne, a native of Hawaii of Japanese heritage, has always been drawn to the outdoors. She traveled all over the world for 44 years as a flight attendant.

Early in their relationship, Evonne told Robert the story of a fellow flight attendant who envisioned that she would one day live in the mountains near the ocean, surrounded by greenery. Driving up to the vineyard with Robert for the first time, Evonne thought, “My god, this is what she was talking about.”

Perched atop a steep hillside and divided into a series of three interlocking boxes, the couple’s 4,000-square-foot home has just one bedroom and a single office, lit throughout by floor-to-ceiling windows. A natural palette of Corten steel, wood, and glass blends with the surrounding property and with the textural striations of the rammed-earth walls.

The 8-foot-tall windows, imported from Portugal at a cost of nearly $1 million, are an essential feature of the design. “We take great pleasure in them, because our whole idea was we wanted to live inside and outside,” says Robert. “If it’s 100 degrees, we want to live inside. If it’s pouring rain, we want to live inside. But the rest of the time we want an inside/outside environment, and the windows afford us that.”

A marble Buddha greets guests as they enter the home through a massive oak front door, which pivots to open directly into the great room, where the view sweeps out through the windows to the spectacularly layered landscape beyond.

An open kitchen flanks one side of the entry, with an entertainment area at the other side. Nearby, there’s a yoga room with soaring windows, a wine storage area, and a Japanese-style bathroom with an elevated shower and soaking tub, opening to a zen garden.

Robert and Evonne have filled the home with art they’ve collected, including rugs, paintings, and textiles, many by friends and family. The early 1900s Japanese silk kimono Evonne’s grandfather’s wife wore for her wedding hangs on the bedroom wall, and polished Hawaiian driftwood sculptures made by Evonne’s mother share space with tapestries and paintings from Dutch actor Jeroen Krabbé.

Robert still writes daily in his large office on a desk inlaid with mother-of-pearl, which he purchased long ago in India, near the Taj Mahal. Photographs of his three daughters are displayed on long, open shelves, alongside piles of scripts from over the years, each inked on the side with the name of the film.

Robert and Evonne insist on a simple, purposeful life up in the hills, marked by long walks with their dogs through the vineyards, alfresco lunches, and evenings surrounded by the view. Robert writes in his office most mornings and practices karate daily, a habit he’s kept since he was 17 years old. Later, the couple might head down the hill to the Kamen Estates tasting room on the square in town, or host wine club members on the skydeck near the house.

This time of year, the promise of the upcoming harvest is tangible, as clusters hang on the vine and crews of fieldworkers prepare for the pick. It’s often windy, but at other times, it’s perfectly still except for the beat of the workers’ radios—here and there, they might even catch someone singing and humming along as the grapes come in. The work comes hard and fast, usually starting in late August for the whites, and late September for the reds. “It is beautiful to hear,” Evonne says.

Evonne believes that the way their life experiences and cultures intertwine are no mere coincidence, coming back to the concept of serendipity. “His whole life has come full circle, don’t you think?” she says.

“Everything happens for a reason,’’ echoes Robert. “I didn’t buy this property to plant a vineyard. My entire ethos and nature was all formed in a city housing project in the Bronx. Who would have thought a skinny little kid with a big mouth would end up here?”

Resources

Architecture: Jessie Whitesides and Tony Garcia, Asquared Studios, Santa Rosa, asquaredstudios.com

Contractor: Richard Kirby, Annadel Builders, Santa Rosa, annadelbuildersinc.com

Landscape Architect: David and Nancy Roche, Roche + Roche, Sonoma, rocheandroche.com

Rammed Earth: Dan Alvarado, Rammed Earth Works, rammedearthworks.com

Gravel Racing Was Happening in Sonoma Long Before It Became Cool. Now It’s Disappearing

Cycling standout Miguel Crawford was getting folks together for rollicking low-fi bike races in rural west county over a decade before the worldwide rise of gravel racing. (Brian Tucker)

Meet Miguel Crawford, husband, father, teacher, extreme velophile—dude has 15 bikes lined up neatly in his Sebastopol studio—and accidental pioneer.

It was 26 years ago that Crawford, a longtime Spanish instructor at El Molino, then Analy High School, organized his first Hopper. That’s the innocuous-sounding name for the merry sufferfests comprising the Grasshopper Adventure Series, which he founded with little to no fanfare back in 1998.

A slightly sadistic series of four to six “rideslash-races” taking place between January and summer, Crawford’s “Hoppers” have long put a premium on hard-won versatility, taking riders over pavement, dirt, gravel, distressed macadam, fire roads, old logging trails, single- track, you name it.

Ripping down Old Cazadero Road north of Guerneville, or grinding up Willow Creek outside Duncans Mills on a smorgasbord of different rigs—road bikes, mountain bikes, cyclocross bikes—those intrepid early Hopper racers didn’t look or feel especially cutting edge.

It turned out, however, that the multi-terrain adventures Crawford has been curating since the previous millennium preceded by at least a decade the rise of gravel riding and racing, a discipline that’s recently gained worldwide popularity. Grasshoppers were all about gravel—and the gravel ethos of fun and exploration— before gravel was cool.

“Gravel,” we are reminded by five-time Olympian and Hopper veteran Katerina Nash, is not to be taken too literally. That word has become shorthand, a catch-all for a mix of different terrains. A huge part of its appeal, says Nash, “is that it brings together all these athletes”— mountain bikers, roadies, members of the cyclocross tribe—“who wouldn’t otherwise meet.”

There are now hundreds of gravel racing events across the United States each year. Among the best known is Unbound Gravel, a 200-mile ordeal contested by 4,000 riders each June in the Flint Hills of Kansas. The Super Bowl of Gravel, as some refer to Unbound, has been won by several Hopper regulars, including Yuri Hauswald, Amity Rockwell, Alison Tetrick, and Ted King, who refers to the Grasshopper Series as the “OG”—the original gangster—of gravel. That tribute was validated in March of 2023 by the Gravel Cycling Hall of Fame, which included Crawford in its second class of inductees, along with Petalumans Hauswald and Tetrick—lending the Emporia, Kansas-based Hall of Fame a distinctly Sonoma flavor.

Decades before the bike industry began marketing gravel bikes, noted Crawford’s Hall of Fame presenter, Dan Hughes, “Mig and his friends were pushing their old road bikes to the limit, installing the largest tires the frames could handle and taking parts from early mountain bikes to create new frankenbikes that could handle the abuse of long mixed-terrain rides.”

The natural beauty of Crawford’s courses, coupled with the relaxed, low-fi vibe of the events, has earned the series a fiercely loyal following throughout Northern California and beyond. Hoppers tend to draw a mix of eager, über-fit amateurs and, at the pointy end of the peloton, a who’s who of pro riders, both mountain and road, seeking some hard miles to sharpen their fitness for the upcoming season.

It’s a mix that has led to some surreal moments. Crawford recalls Giro d’Italia stage winner Peter Stetina texting him from Europe to learn the results of certain Hoppers. “He’d be over in France, racing Paris–Nice or something, asking me who won Old Caz.”

But as word of the rides got out and the number of participants grew, so did attention from neighbors, including members of the Kashia Pomo rancheria. Some citizens complained to their elected officials, others to the California Coastal Commission. By 2022, the process of securing permits for Sonoma County events had become so onerous, even Kafkaesque, that Crawford made the tough, sad decision to move the bulk of the series to friendlier environs—ones outside the county where the races were born.

Miguel Crawford, a longtime Spanish instructor at El Molino, then Analy High School, organized his first Hopper 26 years ago. (Courtesy of Miguel Crawford)

The one who made it happen

A three-sport athlete and member of El Molino’s Class of 1988, Miguel “Mig” Crawford became an elite bike racer following his graduation from Humboldt State. Upon returning to Sonoma County, he spent a decade, on bike and on foot, getting to know the fire roads and byways, the abandoned railroad corridors and old logging trails of west county like the creases on the palm of his hand.

Working with remote, often stunningly beautiful roads such as Sweetwater Springs, Skaggs Springs, King Ridge, Kruse Ranch, Old Caz, Willow Creek—“sounds like a greatest hits album,” notes Crawford, as he ticks them off—he devised long, looping rides that were at once spectacular and spectacularly hard.

Mig and friends would meet in the parking lot behind Occidental’s Union Hotel, where he would hand them a laminated card with a hand-drawn map of that day’s route. In those early, unsanctioned years, there was no registration, no waivers or rest stops or prizes, other than bragging rights and a bag of chips at the finish, paired with a Coke—or perhaps some other, more potent cold beverage.

Crawford would “start us on pavement, jump to dirt, connect through the backwoods to a bit of singletrack,” says old Hopper hand Geoff Kabush, a Canadian mountain biker who competed in three Olympic Games. “It was always fun to see what he was going to piece together.”

The underground feel of those early Hoppers faded as the fields grew. The registration fee edged up, from free, to $5, and then $10. By the time the legendary Ted King showed up to ride his first Grasshopper in 2011, the price of admission was up to (gasp!) $20.

“Hoppers have a different feel than a lot of the other races we do around the country. It still has that original ethos, those nuggets of camaraderie that you don’t see elsewhere.” – pro rider Ted King

The event had been described to him as a group ride, and King remembers thinking at the time, “Why do I need to pay $20 to go on a training ride?”

But he soon found himself drawn in by the fellowship and the beauty of the route. Following the punishing climb of Geysers Road outside Cloverdale, which pitches up the way Mike Campbell says he went broke in Hemingway’s “The Sun Also Rises”: “gradually and then suddenly”—riders took a left at the old Jimtown Store, finishing 3,000 vertical feet later at the terminus of Pine Flat Road.

What King remembers about that day was the fun he had, the friends he made—and the dessert awaiting them.

“There were all these cupcakes,” he recalls, 13 years later. “Really nice, artisanal cupcakes.”

“That might’ve been the best 20 bucks I ever put into my cycling career.”

As many former WorldTour pros have after him, King discovered a fulfilling second career as a “privateer”—a rider unaffiliated with a team—on the gravel racing scene. The Hoppers, he says, “have a different feel than a lot of the other races we do around the country. It still has that original ethos, those nuggets of camaraderie that you don’t see elsewhere.”

As pro mountain biker Alex Wild put it after winning the Lake Sonoma Hopper in 2022, “No one’s telling me to be here. I don’t have to put [Hoppers] on my schedule. But Mig just puts on such good events, it makes people want to ride them.”

Top rider Larissa Connors of Santa Rosa finishes a muddy Mendocino Hopper in 2023. (Brian Tucker)
Top rider Larissa Connors of Santa Rosa finishes a muddy Mendocino Hopper in 2023. (Brian Tucker)

Today we ride

Twenty-six years after Crawford and a dozen of his buddies rolled out of Occidental for the inaugural Hopper, some 600 riders straddled their bikes, chatting nervously in the parking lot at Todd Grove Park in Ukiah. It was January 27, 2024, and the group was waiting for the start of the Low Gap Hopper, a half-dirt, half-pavement, 48-mile ordeal into which Crawford crowded 6,200 feet of climbing. (For context, the first mountain stage of this summer’s Tour de France is 87 miles, with 11,617 feet of gain.)

One the coolest things about these adventures, says Chas Christiansen, an artist and pro gravel rider, is who you end up saying hello to in the parking lot or at the start. “You’re standing next to these pros—Ted King, or Levi, or Peter Stetina—guys who just rode in the Tour de France or the Giro d’Italia. It’s wild.”

Christiansen was a 20-something San Francisco bike messenger in 2010 when a friend talked him into signing up for the Old Caz Hopper – the perennial Grasshopper season opener until 2019, when a landslide prompted the county to close the road. (It has yet to reopen.)

He grabbed his vintage Miele, an Italian-style racing steed—“the only bike I had with gears,” he recalls—and headed for Occidental. Thus did he find himself later that morning battling gravity and the elements on the descent of Old Cazadero Road. Such was the steepness of one muddy section of Old Caz that Christiansen was forced to sit astride the top tube of the bike, braking Fred Flintstone-style.

“I had a foot down on each side, like a trimaran,” he recalls.

Up ahead, riders were dismounting. Why are they doing that, he wondered, until he saw the rain-swollen creek bisecting the trail. “You know it’s a good race when there’s a surprise river,” says Christiansen.

Fourteen years later he’s still racing and riding bikes for a living. Christiansen credits Grasshoppers for helping him “get comfortable being extremely uncomfortable” and “riding deep into the wilderness and being confident in my own abilities to survive and thrive.”

Standing on the far side of Austin Creek that soggy morning, photographer Paul C. Miller snapped a picture of Christiansen as the grinning bike messenger forded the stream, shlepping his vintage road bike. Behind him are two riders, one carrying a mountain bike, the other a cyclocross rig. Crawford in particular treasures that image because it captures a core Hopper tenet: There is no “right” bike.

It has long delighted him that these mixed-terrain adventures force specialists out of their comfort zones. Pure roadies merely survive the rocky, technical sections. Fat-tire folk struggle to keep up on pavement. As Hopper apostle Austin McInerny recalls, each new event prompts a fresh round of “tinkering with our bike set-ups, asking one another, ‘What tires you gonna run?’” “For me, that was the fun,” says Crawford, who for years competed in his own events, finishing first in exactly one of them. “Here’s the course, now choose what to ride. We’re all trying to get there as fast as we can. How’s that going to play out?”

Some of that mystery has been removed by the emergence of discipline-specific gravel bikes—including those made by Specialized, now the title sponsor of the series.

McInerney got his first taste of the Grasshopper series around 2006. He was immediately beguiled by the beauty of the routes, and grateful for Crawford’s willingness to share. “Surfers are all about locals only, but Mig’s attitude was, ‘No, you’re here, you’re willing to check it out, you’re part of my group.’” That day’s ride finished at the top of Willow Creek Road, “and it was a huge party up there, chips and beer and soda and people just hanging out, celebrating.”

There is no “right” bike: Chas Christiansen, front, on a vintage Italian road bike, illustrates a core Hopper tenet while racing Old Caz back in 2010. (Paul Miller)
There is no “right” bike: Chas Christiansen, front, on a vintage Italian road bike, illustrates a core Hopper tenet while racing Old Caz back in 2010. (Paul Miller)

Growing pains

Rider Austin McInerny has a background in environmental planning and has consulted extensively on natural resource management cases, including work with the U.S. Forest Service and other federal agencies “with thorny issues, a lot of it dealing with recreation and public lands management.”

For the last six years or so he’s been Crawford’s point man, working with Sonoma County to get the Hoppers permitted. For years, he said, wrangling those permits had been straightforward.

Early in 2022, when the county began consideration of McInerny’s application for a permit to run the King Ridge Supreme Hopper in March of that year, “that’s when things started to go sideways.”

As they later learned, the county was in the process of updating its system for reviewing events such as theirs. As part of that overhaul, Hopper applications were now being scrutinized by newly created Municipal Advisory Councils.

In late January of ’22, Crawford and McInerny were informed by Permit Sonoma that the King Ridge application had drawn the attention of the powerful California Coastal Commission. Concerned citizens had objected to numerous aspects of the application—in particular the Grasshoppers’ plan to use Willow Creek Road, described by one as “an environmentally fragile area within Sonoma Coast State Parks’ salmon-bearing Willow Creek watershed.”

In addition to adverse impacts sure to be suffered by the salmon, the citizen went on, area roads would be blocked by cyclists “and their friends and families cheering them on.”

With the event less than two months away, Crawford and McInerny modified the course, routing riders away from Willow Creek. For weeks, the Coastal Commission withheld its approval of the application. In a letter to the commission, McInerny expressed frustration with its ongoing “review,” pointing out that this Hopper no longer passed through the area of environmental concern.

“The event does not use any of the coastal pullouts, is outside of the busiest time of year, nor requires any road closures. The event has already received approval from California Highway Patrol and is under review by Caltrans, which issued a permit for the same event in 2019.”

“Sadly,” he wrote, “this appears to be a case of locals not wanting to share the beauty of west Sonoma County with others.”

The Grasshopper never did hear back from the Coastal Commission. But a week after McInerny sent his letter, Crawford was informed by Permit Sonoma, that, upon careful review of the code, organizers didn’t need an encroachment permit for the King Ridge Supreme, after all.

The event was on! But the drama was not over.

The course called for riders to roll west on Skaggs Springs Road, then south on Tin Barn Road. Unbeknownst to Crawford and McInerny, that intersection, and the land around it, is the Stewarts Point Rancheria of the Kashia Band of Pomo Indians.

Some of the Kashia Pomo, including tribal chairman Reno Keoni Franklin, were upset that neither the county nor representatives from the Grasshopper Adventure Series had consulted them.

“They did not require safety measures to protect the children and elders who [live] on the Rez. They did not require the riders to post safety signs or to slow down when entering the reservation,” Franklin wrote in a Facebook post the day before the ride.

Describing the event as “extremely dangerous,” that he would be “driving tomorrow to block the road and anyone participating in the race to walk their bike through reservation. I am traveling on this and could use some support.” short notice, Crawford changed the route again, shortening the course considerably to the rancheria. a follow-up email to riders, Crawford explained that he hadn’t consulted with the Kashia before this Hopper, “but neither had we prior to any of our previous events, as this was not requested by any of the county nor California permitting agencies that we had consulted. As far as we understood, both Tin Barn Road and Skaggs Springs-Stewarts Point Road are public roads which have been used legally by the public for years.”

Having spoken with chairman Franklin, Crawford continued, “I now understand the importance of contacting the Tribe, regardless of what is required by the state or the County of Sonoma. All of us, unless native to California, are visitors on this land, and this is important to remember and recognize.”

Scarred by those experiences, and considering “the uncertainty and extremely laborious requirements” of the overhauled permitting process, says McInerny, the Grasshopper hasn’t applied for any permits in Sonoma County since—with the exception of the Lake Sonoma Hopper, which is held on lands managed by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, which has been “fantastic to work with,” says Crawford.

“We were caught,” McInerny believes, “in the middle of an apparent turf battle between the various MACs” and Permit Sonoma staff.

While unwilling to comment specifically on the Grasshopper series, Permit Sonoma director Tennis Wick defended the county’s revamped permitting process as an improvement over the old one, describing it as more efficient, and more responsive to concerns voiced by locals.

“Conducting a community event requires engagement with and respect for that community,” he wrote in an email. “There have been multiple complaints about events impacting local residents and Tribal Partners. Now that advisory councils receive referrals on event applications, residents and businesses may comment on proposals affecting their communities.”

The Grasshopper’s brief flareup with the Kashia Pomo left “no hard feelings,” says Franklin. “We know they learned from it, and in a good way.” He describes Crawford as “a great guy” running “a great organization. They’re raising funds for good causes—causes we support, too.” (The Grasshopper series often donated money to the west county volunteer fire departments along its routes.)

“If they ever do come back, we’ll be happy to work with them.”

Grass Hopper Adventure Series, Lake Sonoma Hopper Mt. Bike race on April 15th 2023.
Grasshopper Adventure Series by Lake Sonoma in April 2023. (Brian Tucker)

New chapter, new outreach

For now, however, the series that sprung up organically in Sonoma County holds all but one of its events elsewhere. In Mendocino County, Ukiah has embraced the Grasshopper series, hosting both the 2024 season-opening Low Gap Hopper in January and the Ukiah- Mendo Gravel Epic on May 11. The 89mile Huffmaster Hopper, on February 24, took place in Colusa County.

“What we’re looking for now,” says Crawford, “is to do events in communities that want us to be there, that see the benefit—that we’re bringing money in, bringing a form of recreation that’s healthy and positive.”

Yes, he is wide open to future rides in Sonoma County, but not if it means the kind administrative war of attrition the Grasshopper endured in 2022.

“It’s a shame,” says Peter Stetina, of the Hoppers exiting Sonoma County, “because they have such a rich history there.” He spoke of widespread “disgruntlement” within the county’s “cycling community”—a frustration with some leaders’ inability to see “a bigger picture” and appreciate the tourism dollars cycling can bring.

Amity Rockwell was philosophical about the migration of Grasshoppers from their original home, describing it as not so much sad as “a little bittersweet,” and, perhaps, inevitable.

Riding King Ridge and Old Caz and Willow Creek “was pretty special,” Rockwell allows. But as the number of riders in the Hoppers “doubled and tripled in size,” it became more difficult to hold the events “in a respectful manner in these really tiny places.” As it booms in popularity, the gravel scene “has undergone massive change in the last six or seven years. There are a lot of races that aren’t what they used to be. They’re something new now.”

One recent addition to Crawford’s series is a rider mentor program devised by Helena Gilbert-Snyder, a pro rider and analyst at Specialized Bicycles.

Gilbert-Snyder is passionate about correcting gender disparity in sports—which can be especially pronounced in cycling. Women make up a little over 20% of the Grasshopper fields. While that’s “above average” for gravel events, says Crawford, “I would obviously like it to go higher.”

Lining up for the Low Gap Hopper will be 20 young female riders, each paired with a seasoned female mentor.

What the job entails, said Rockwell, one of the mentors, is to “follow a junior rider around for the day, help them eat and drink and wear the right clothes.” While it might seem straightforward, “it’s a lot to take on, if you’ve never done this before.”

“When I was just getting started in my early 20s,” she recalls, the Hoppers “were a way for me to race against Olympians and WorldTour riders. And now here’s a chance for me to help a young rider who maybe has dreams of doing what I do, someday.”

She’s confident that the Hoppers will bloom wherever they’re planted. Spectacular as it is, Sonoma County has no monopoly on gorgeous Northern California scenery. And Crawford, she believes, has created “this, like, magic potion,” of elements, including the chance for pros to race hard “but not take everything so seriously,” and for up-and-coming riders to rub elbows with the pros.

“It’s just the right mix. We’re all drawn to it.”

Who loves a Hopper?

The front row of any Hopper sendoff has long bristled with world-class talent. Here are some of the big names who’ve suffered for vertical gain in the hills of western Sonoma County.

Mountain bike world champions: Chris Blevins, Kate Courtney

WorldTour road racers: Katie Hall, Ted King, Levi Leipheimer, Peter Stetina, Alison Tetrick Laurens ten Dam

Olympians: Geoff Kabush, Katerina Nash, Flavia Oliveira, Max Plaxton

Local rising stars: Luke Lamperti, Ian Lopez de San Roman, Vida Lopez de San Roman

Where to Eat Right Now in Sonoma County

Baked goods at downtown Sonoma’s new Monday Bakery. (Sakhon Nhek/Courtesy of Monday Bakery)

Dining editor Heather Irwin picks three top spots for dining out in Sonoma County as spring arrives. Click through the above gallery for a peek at a few favorite dishes at each restaurant.

Golden Bear Station

Chef Joshua Smookler tested nearly 100 pizza doughs for his new restaurant, and he’s still tweaking the recipe. The moisture, the flour, the “secret ingredient” he declines to share, the temperature of the wood-fired oven, and even the weather are all critical to the final result—a crust dotted with leopard spots, neither too burnt nor too raw, but just right.

Golden Bear Station, which Smookler owns with his wife, Heidy He, is a departure for the couple, who opened the critically acclaimed Animo in downtown Sonoma in 2022. While that now-shuttered dining experience focused on livefire cooking with luxe ingredients and Mediterranean and Korean influences, Golden Bear Station pays homage to Italy. Mostly.

Smookler and He shrug off being pigeon-holed into specific categories, and the new menu, which leans heavily on gourmet pizzas and pasta, also includes a hamburger, a tuna crudo starter, and a $155 whole lamb saddle, which must be ordered ahead of time. The scallops tiradito starter riffs on Peruvian-style crudo, with raw scallops thinly sliced into disks and stacked in basil oil, green tomato, and finger limes—a flavor bomb of sweet mollusk, tart citrus, and aromatic vegetal notes. The couple have also reprised the Asian-inspired pork chop in umami-laden dashi broth and lobster in XO sauce with lemongrass tea previously on the Animo menu. (Animo is slated to reopen in 2024 with a new concept.)

A Burger Named Harlan from the Golden Bear Station Thursday, January 11, 2023 on Hwy 12 in Kenwood. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
A Burger Named Harlan from the Golden Bear Station in Kenwood. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Lobster XO with a table side pour of shiitake lemongrass tea over sushi rice from the Golden Bear Station Thursday, January 11, 2023 on Hwy 12 in Kenwood. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Lobster XO with a table side pour of shiitake lemongrass tea over sushi rice from the Golden Bear Station in Kenwood. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

What brings this diverse set of offerings together is just how extraordinary everything is. Take the classic cacio e pepe , a classic bucatini pasta. Here, the dish is elevated with seven different kinds of pepper, giving it a spicy punch that lingers on the tongue. There’s an option to add fresh uni, which lends a creamy, briny, sweet accent, further elevating the dish. Pasta Bolognese is equally impressive, with a meat and tomato sauce that sticks to every centimeter of the fresh, housemade paccheri pasta (a larger, wider sibling of rigatoni).

Pizzas are a highlight, perfectly cooked without any bitter notes of char. The soft, chewy dough has a puffed crust and a thin but sturdy middle that holds on to ingredients rather than letting them all slide off. The best bet is the Boscaiola pie, topped with fresh mushrooms, sharp fontina cheese, and truffles, though the classic Margherita also shines.

Smookler and He’s shared passion for exhaustive research, even on the simplest of dishes, sets Golden Bear Station apart. As the menu continues to evolve, the amount of time and passion the couple invest in their practice is sure to lead to many more equally revelatory dishes.

8445 Hwy. 12, Kenwood. goldenbearstation.com

Monday Bakery

There is no tidy way to eat kouign-amann, the sweet but complicated cousin of the croissant. This crisp, buttery, caramelized French pastry explodes into a million tiny pieces of sugar and dough at the mere suggestion that you might eat it; napkins are useless against its many layers; and it laughs at your attempts to wipe the buttery crumbs from your face and hands.

And somehow, that is my warped rationale for eating one while driving away from Sonoma’s Monday Bakery. No matter what, it’s making a mess. Why not enjoy the ride?

The downtown bakery, owned by Sally Geftakys, crafts super-sized versions of kouign-amann (pronounced “queen-uh-man”), roughly translated from French as “you will be wearing these pastry crumbs for several days.” With crunchy petals of laminated dough and an airy honeycomb interior, they’re worth every bit of mess, hassle, and calorie (your hands will smell like a pat of butter for several hours).

Cheerful spring vibes at downtown Sonoma's new Monday Bakery. (Sakhon Nhek/Courtesy of Monday Bakery)
Cheerful spring vibes at downtown Sonoma’s new Monday Bakery. (Sakhon Nhek/Courtesy of Monday Bakery)

Geftakys, a CIA Greystone graduate and passionate baker, launched Monday Bakery at local farmers markets and pop-ups in 2017. But after finding a ravenous audience for her seasonally inspired sweet and savory pastries, she opened a storefront in downtown Napa in 2019, followed by this new Sonoma location in late 2023.

Seasonal ingredients like pears, apples, and berries fill scones and turnovers; ham, cheese, or chocolate are hidden inside fat croissants; and muffins, cookies, and quiche beckon from the glass display case. Premade sandwiches on fluffy baguettes are ready to grab and go. Nutella-frosted banana bread is a revelation—and the only way I’ll ever enjoy it again.

I’ll be cleaning the crumbs from my car upholstery for weeks, but life is too short not to dive into a messy bag of pastries immediately and without regret.

117 E. Napa St., Sonoma. 707-699-2960mondaybakery.com

de Havilland

For nearly 13 years, chef Mark Malicki spent his Friday, Saturday, and Sunday nights cooking in a closet-sized kitchen at the Casino Bar & Grill in Bodega. Inside that kitchen was a two-burner stove, a flat-top grill, and a refrigerator drawer—not exactly a dream setup for a chef.

But somehow, Malicki made it work, serving up decidedly un-barlike dishes like short rib goulash with mushroom gratin, Dungeness crab from nearby Bodega Bay, buttermilk fried rabbit with rémoulade sauce, or Wagyu beef with foraged chanterelle mushrooms. Without the financial pressures of a brick-and-mortar space, Malicki thrived in the remote west county town as a culinary curiosity— an off-the-beaten-path food destination beloved by insiders, but mostly ignored by the Michelin-star obsessed.

Chef Mark Malicki operates his de Havilland pop-up at Tea Room Cafe in Petaluma. Photo taken in Petaluma on Friday, January 12, 2024. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Chef Mark Malicki operates his de Havilland pop-up at Tea Room Cafe in Petaluma. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Now 64, Malicki says he was ready for a change, something closer to home, with a more expansive kitchen. After leaving the Casino last year, he created de Havilland, which takes over Petaluma’s Tea Room Cafe three nights a week, Thursday through Saturday. It’s a through line for Malicki’s deep-rooted passion for, well, whatever he’s passionate about at the moment—whether that’s frying latkes in Chinese scallion oil, feeding crab boat workers facing a deferred season, cooking for a fundraiser, or sharing a produce haul from his favorite farmer.

What you’ll experience will likely be a surprise, unless you follow Malicki’s Instagram (@malle.mal), where he posts the evening’s dishes along with observations and insights. There’s often a theme, but sometimes there isn’t, and it’s better not to go with any expectations. Just put yourselves into Malicki’s hands, and enjoy being treated to de Havilland’s wild, wonderful, heartfelt, idealistic, perfectly imperfect world.

316 Western Ave., Petaluma. 707-623-5141, cafedehavilland.com

10 Spectacular Spring Getaways in Sonoma County

Beautiful Kunde

Here are our favorite spring getaways — from farm tours to cooking classes — for those who love to celebrate good food.

Meet the Milk Producers

“Springtime is the most beautiful time on the farm,” says Jennifer Bice, owner of Sebastopol’s Redwood Hill Farm-Capracopia, whose family has been raising goats in Sonoma County since 1964. “We have fruit orchards in bloom, but really, the highlight is the baby goats.”

Spring farm tours, often led by Bice herself, spotlight what she calls “kid cuddling”—as in the baby goat kind of “kid.” Guests are invited to sit on bales of hay while baby goats frolic and clamber into laps (one sweet kid, just a week or so old, nibbled on a corner of a guest’s shirt). The socialization is important for the young goats—as adults, they must be gentle and used to being around people to be milked, explains Bice.

Redwood Hill Farm
Owner Jennifer Bice of Redwood Hill Farm-Capracopia has been working with goats since she was a child. Now, her niece and nephew, above, continue the family tradition. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Redwood Hill Farm
Guests sit on bales of Hay while baby goats frolic and clamber into laps. Farm owner Jennifer Bice calls it “Kid Cuddling.” (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

Farm tours also visit a large solar array, the adult goat barns, and the milking parlor (the equipment is a mini-me version of cow-sized equipment) and teach about the farm’s commitment to sustainability and regenerative farming.

A small farmstand offers estate-grown extra virgin olive oil, goat milk soap, and bouquets of spring ranunculus, sweet peas, and other beauties grown on the farm. After hanging out with the kids, linger with an alfresco lunch in the farm’s lush picnic fields. Pick up picnic provisions at nearby Andy’s Produce Market (1691 Gravenstein Hwy. N., Sebastopol) on your way to the farm.

Redwood Hill Farm-Capracopia. 5440 Thomas Road, Sebastopol. redwoodhillfarm.org

Redwood Hill Farm
At Redwood Hill Farm-Capracopia in Sebastopol. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

Adventure with Experts

There’s a ton of ground to cover in Sonoma County. For a refreshing change of pace, let someone else show you around as you indulge your culinary passions. Behind the wheel of a glitzy new Land Rover Defender, Bohemian Highway Travel Co. ensures that your day will include unique, often family-owned wineries, many not normally open to the public. Admiring vines up close is intriguing in any season, but traversing vineyards on sunlit spring days yields a powerful spirit of renewal.

The company’s thoughtful itineraries also acknowledge Sonoma County’s evolving food scene. Farm-to-table picnic lunches are prepared by chef Jennifer McMurry of Bloom Carneros fame, and lunch spots are carefully selected in advance. At Beltane Ranch, for example, getting to the primo picnic sites typically includes buckling into an all-terrain vehicle to bump through vineyards, olive orchards, and pastures studded with longhorn cattle and adorable sheep.

Bohemian Highway Travel Co. 707-204-9660, bohohwy.com

Bohemian Highway Travel Co.
Bohemian Highway Travel Co. ensures that your day will include unique, often family-owned wineries, many not normally open to the public. (Bohemian Highway Travel Co.)

Overnight Ranch Stays

Who says tree houses are for kids? Located on 400 acres in Bodega, just a short distance form the coast, a 30-foot spiral staircase leads the way to the Eagle’s Nest Treehouse at Salmon Creek Ranch. When you’re not lounging on the wraparound deck, you’ll likely be hanging out with the resident cows, ducks, goats, and charming livestock guardian dogs. Grill your own dinner with ranch-raised meats from the small, on-site market, which sells filet mignon, short ribs, carne asada, and sausages.

Less than 15 minutes outside Healdsburg, the splurge-y NewTree Ranch is a biodynamic farm with the feel of a luxury wellness resort. Cook fresh produce in the modern outdoor kitchen, collect eggs from the henhouse, or take an outdoor soak alongside your partner in side-by-side clawfoot tubs. Don’t be surprised if a Scottish Highland cow or knobby-kneed Nigerian goat swings by to see what all the splashing is about.

Or, after savoring a multicourse food and wine pairing at Lynmar Estate in Sebastopol, call it a night at the winery’s luxurious Bliss House, which overlooks serene Quail Hill Vineyard and the Laguna de Santa Rosa.

Salmon Creek Ranch. 707-775-9604, salmoncreekranch.com

NewTree Ranch. 707-433-9643, newtreeranch.com

Lynmar Estate. 707-829-3374, lynmarestate.com

Salmon Creek Ranch treehouse
A tree house with a view at Salmon Creek Ranch. (Silas Fallstich)
Spend time with animals at New Tree Ranch in Healdsburg. (New Tree Ranch)
Spend time with animals at New Tree Ranch in Healdsburg. (New Tree Ranch)

Forgotten Freestone

When was the last time you wandered through the tiny west county hamlet of Freestone? If you have to stop and think about it, you’ve got some catching up to do.

At much-loved Wild Flour Bread (140 Bohemian Hwy.), crusty loaves of sourdough and fougasse, fruit-studded scones, and cookies, fresh out of the wood-fired brick oven barely have a moment to cool before being snapped up. Go ahead, buy one loaf for now and one for later—and perhaps also something sweet and delish to enjoy straightaway in the bakery’s sundappled garden. 

Practically next door is the new Jasper House tasting room from cult-favorite Pinot Noir and Chardonnay specialists Black Kite Cellars (12747 El Camino Bodega). In spring, owners Tom and Rebecca Birdsall and their team love taking visitors into the nearby vineyard to introduce them to the wonkish world of Pinot Noir clones.

No spring field trip to Freestone is complete without a stop at BlueGoat (380 Bohemian Hwy.). Formerly known as Freestone Artisan Cheese, the charming market features cheese from close to home and around the world. Lucky you, you’ve already got the bread.

At Black Kite Cellars in Freestone. (Black Kite Cellars)
At Black Kite Cellars’ Jasper House tasting room in Freestone. (Will Bucquoy/Black Kite Cellars)
The courtyard at Gold Ridge Organic Farms. (Gold Ridge Organic Farms)
The courtyard at Gold Ridge Organic Farms in Sebastopol. (Gold Ridge Organic Farms)

Spring’s Apple Blossoms

The buzz these days may be all about bud break in the vineyards—but long before there were grapes in Sonoma County, there were apples. So many apples. At Gold Ridge Organic Farms in the rolling hills of Sebastopol, apples still reign supreme. “The apple orchards in spring erupt in a sea of flowers, ushering in one of my favorite sensory spectacles of the year,” says owner and farmer Brooke Hazen. “I am undecided which is more beautiful: the cornucopia of flowers in spring or the apples themselves in summer.”

With more than 12,000 apple trees and about 75 heirloom varieties, blossoms emerge in every imaginable shade of pink, violet, and white, providing food for honeybees and native bumblebees. Hazen leads walks through the rows to celebrate the season; taste his love for the versatile fruit in farm-fresh products including apple cider syrup, apple cider vinegar, and apple cider balsamic vinegar. Mandarin kumquats, Meyer lemons, and 13,000 olive trees also grow on the property. The farm hosts a “Spring Is Blossoming” celebration Saturday April 27.

Gold Ridge Organic Farms. 3387 Canfield Rd., Sebastopol, 707-823-3110, goldridgeorganicfarms.com

“The apple orchards in spring erupt in a sea of flowers, ushering in one of my favorite sensory spectacles of the year,” says Gold Ridge Organic Farms owner and farmer Brooke Hazen. (Sonoma County Tourism)

Outstanding Cooking Classes

“Our community is thinking about the sandwich bread and baguettes they want to make fresh for picnics, to say nothing of the artisan pizzas, hand-shaped Italian pastas, and glistening fresh fruit pies and tarts they get to share with loved ones as the weather improves,” says Lorenzo Alviso, program director at Artisan Baking Center in Petaluma. This spring at the center, James Beard award-winning pastry chef Nicole Plue is leading handson classes on puff pastry and spring tarts.

At The Epicurean Connection in Sonoma, enthusiastic students can learn how to pull mozzarella, churn butter, and create a wheel of ricotta in small classes with chef and cookbook author Sheana Davis.

And during the rare moments the kitchen is free, the magicians responsible for the lines out the door at Healdsburg bakery Quail & Condor make time to teach everything from making pasta to baking their legendary buttermilk drop biscuit with Parmesan and roasted onions. Sign up online; if a class is full, it never hurts to reach out.

Artisan Baking Center (at Keith Giusto Bakery Supply). 1120 Holm Rd., Petaluma. 707-765-5745, centralmilling.com

The Epicurean Connection. 19670 Eighth St. E., Sonoma, 707-235-9530, theepicureanconnection.com

Quail & Condor. 149 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. 707-473-8254, quailandcondor.com

Melissa Yanc of Quail & Condor bakery
Melissa Yanc of Healdsburg’s Quail & Condor. (Emma K Creative)
Instructor Pablo Puluke Giet teaching baking at the Artisan Baking Center Gabrielle Scrimshaw flouring her workspace before folding dough
A sourdough class at Petaluma’s Artisan Baking Center. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)

Forage in Mendocino

“I actually have the best job on this property of sharing the land with guests,” says Otis Brown, experienced forager and ranch hand at The Inn at Newport Ranch.

Located north of Fort Bragg, the 2,200-acre private ranch commands a mile and half of swoon-worthy oceanfront, expansive stretches of coastal pasture dotted with grazing cattle, and acres of old-growth redwoods.

Foraging is a way of life in Mendocino County, where the diversity of wild foods is astounding. On a spring foraging tour led by Brown, a chorus of crashing waves, cascading waterfalls, and gushing streams usher in a feeling of solitude. Guests can gather wild ginger, fiddlehead fern, waterleaf, miner’s lettuce, wild radish, and redwood sorrel—but there’s much more to the experience than simply filling your basket. Part of the joy of foraging is slowing down and letting the details of the landscape come into focus.

The ranch’s executive chef incorporates ingredients foraged by guests into meals. (Nik Z Photo/ Inn at Newport Ranch)
The ranch's executive chef incorporates ingredients foraged by guests into meals. (Nik Z Photo/ Inn at Newport Ranch)
The ranch’s executive chef incorporates ingredients foraged by guests into meals. (Nik Z Photo/ Inn at Newport Ranch)

“I think there’s little bells and whistles that go off in our brain chemistry from foraging. There’s a satisfaction of ‘I’m going to pull this from the land and eat this.’”

The magic carries through to dinner, as executive chef Patrick Meany, formerly of Elk’s Michelin-starred Harbor House Inn, uses the ingredients you collected on your tour to create a multicourse meal: Think Humboldt Bay oysters with verjus ice and redwood sorrel, and grilled black cod in waterleaf butter sauce with porcini foam.

The bounty of the land also unleashes a feast for the eyes. “It’s such a unique property.

I find it magical,” says ranch manager Blair Foster. “There’s so many facets to explore. You have to love the outdoors, but if you have that inclination, it’s endless.”

The Inn at Newport Ranch. 31502 N. Hwy. 1, Fort Bragg. 707-962-4818, theinnatnewportranch.com

For a foodie getaway a bit further afield, the 2,200-acre oceanfront Inn at Newport Ranch near Fort Bragg offers stunning blufftop vistas. (Nik Z Photo/ Inn at Newport Ranch)
For a foodie getaway a bit further afield, the 2,200-acre oceanfront Inn at Newport Ranch near Fort Bragg offers stunning blufftop vistas. (Nik Z Photo/ Inn at Newport Ranch)

Taste Liquid Gold

Driving west from Petaluma toward the Pacific, rolling green hillsides sparkle and sightings of cows are everywhere. McEvoy Ranch, just a few miles outside town off Red Hill Road, is a place to be enveloped in nature and the bounty of locally grown products. Arriving at the ranch, a cheery sign along the winding driveway reminds you to take it slow. It’s good advice; the scenery here should be enjoyed.

There isn’t a bad day of the year to wander through the organic orchards at McEvoy Ranch; the silver-green foliage of 14,000 olive trees shimmer year-round. But with spring comes an explosion of delicate white blossoms that instill a sense of excitement for warmer days ahead. Rare dawn redwoods reawaken, dogwood and tulip trees remind why they’re worthy of adulation, and more than 3,000 tulips wrap the ranch’s Culinary Garden in a fragrant rainbow.

McEvoy Ranch Petaluma
McEvoy Ranch’s lush greenhouse. (McEvoy Ranch)
Outdoor tasting area at McEvoy Ranch in Petaluma. (Shwetha Kotekar/Sonoma County Tourism)
Outdoor tasting area at McEvoy Ranch in Petaluma. (Shwetha Kotekar/Sonoma County Tourism)

Ranch tours cover everything from the olive orchard to the mill, highlighting the diversity and history of this third-generation family-owned ranch. Afterward, settle into a seat on the patio—they all come with a view—for a tasting of the ranch’s specialty olive oils, including the gold-medal winning Ginger Turmeric flavor, served with Della Fattoria bread. Toast spring sunshine with a glass of McEvoy Ranch’s small-lot wine or say yes to dessert with a lemon tart topped with a drizzle of basil olive oil. Before you leave, stop into the sunshine-filled farm store for Mission fig balsamic vinegar, Sonoma wildflower honey, or the wonderful spicy green-olive tapenade.

McEvoy Ranch. 5935 Red Hill Rd., Petaluma. 707-769-4100, mcevoyranch.com

Spring sunshine filters through the trees at McEvoy Ranch in Petaluma. (McEvoy Ranch)
Spring sunshine filters through the trees at McEvoy Ranch in Petaluma. (McEvoy Ranch)

A Seafood-Filled Day in Bodega Bay

Hop from taste to taste as a breezy spring day unfolds along coastal Highway 1 in Bodega Bay. Get some steps in along the Bird Walk Coastal Access Trail at Doran Regional Park, then head to Ginochio’s Kitchen ( 1410 Bay Flat Rd.) for an order of Fish ’n Tacos. It’s hard to share—we know—but pacing is key. You want to bring your “A” game as you shuffle next door to Gourmet Au Bay for their famous smoked clam pizza ( 1412 Bay Flat Rd.).

From there, the dazzling vistas of Bodega Head are just a short drive away. It’s a bit late in the year to see migrating whales—but they have been known to blow off the calendar, so stay sharp as you wander the bluffs and beaches.

After the chill of the bluffs, warm your hands around a paper cup of steamy chowder from Spud Point Crab Co. (1910 Westshore Rd.). Afterward, for even more heat, try the grilled oysters with pickled jalapeño and shallots served next door at Fisherman’s Cove (1850 Bay Flat Rd.).

At the end of the day, the ride home will be even sweeter when you’re accompanied by a giant bag of saltwater taffy from Patrick’s of Bodega Bay (915 Hwy. 1). Try the peppermint taffy—its stripes echo the cheerful pink and white ones on the candy store’s exterior, a landmark along this stretch of the North Coast.

Hop from taste to taste as a breezy spring day unfolds along coastal Highway 1 in Bodega Bay.
Hop from taste to taste as a breezy spring day unfolds along coastal Highway 1 in Bodega Bay. (Shutterstock)
A mezze platter from Sonoma's Spread Kitchen at Bartholomew Estate in Sonoma. (Michelle Hogan)
At Bartholomew Estate Vineyards and Winery in Sonoma. (Michelle Hogan)

Wineries in Spring

Whether you want to shop for specialty vegetables or enjoy a full meal, these wineries offer both delicious sustenance and beautiful spring landscapes to explore.

Bartholomew Estate Vineyards and Winery

Hike, ride horses, or go forest bathing at the 375-acre vineyard-studded estate that’s considered one of the birthplaces of California viticulture. Enjoy Mediterranean deliciousness from Sonoma’s Spread Kitchen—think shawarma, falafel, tabbouleh, and more—alongside a two-glass flight of Bartholomew Estate wines.

1000 Vineyard Lane, Sonoma. 707-509-0540, bartholomewestate.com

Marimar Estate Vineyards and Winery

A taste of Spain in Sonoma County. Enjoy wine paired with Spanish tapas from owner Marimar Torres on the sunny winery patio surrounded by a rainbow of purple foxglove, daffodils, and Chinese peonies. Along with honey from estate hives, you can often purchase fresh chicken eggs, and quince paste fresh from Marimar’s kitchen.

11400 Graton Rd., Sebastopol. 707-823-4365, marimarestate.com

Seating among the flowers at Marimar Estate Vineyards and Winery in Sebastopol. (Marimar Estate Vineyards and Winery)
The gardens at Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery in Healdsburg. (Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery)

Belden Barns

Along with hillside vines and 1800s-era farm buildings, this family-run Sonoma Mountain winery also boasts a 3-acre farm. Much of the produce is sold to local restaurants, but you can scoop up delicious pantry items, including polenta, heirloom beans, and popcorn.

5561 Sonoma Mountain Rd., Santa Rosa. 415-577-8552, beldenbarns.com

Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery

Call the hotline (707-433-5349) to find out when the famous tulips and daffodils will be in bloom, then tiptoe your way to a table in the winery’s Sycamore Grove for an outstanding Sunday brunch. Reserve in advance.

8761 Dry Creek Rd., Healdsburg. 800-831-0381, ferrari-carano.com

Cline Family Cellars

Take in more than a thousand roses, then nibble on a charcuterie board featuring seasonal fruit from the winery’s orchards. Adorable donkeys, too.

24737 Arnold Dr., Sonoma. 707-940-4044, clinecellars.com

Two Landscape Designers Create a Garden Oasis in Healdsburg

“This is really a stroll garden,” says landscape architect Mike Lucas of the Healdsburg backyard he designed with his wife, Jennifer Lucas, an architect. “It’s best for moving through—so many different paths and perspectives.” The half-acre garden steps down a hillside, into which they’ve carved an intricate series of spaces defined by dry-stacked stone walls and meandering, pea-gravel pathways.

Jennifer and Mike Lucas, principals in Lucas & Lucas, a landscape architecture firm, met at Cal Poly Pomona, where each was pursuing a graduate degree in design. Their renovated home, where they live with their two children, represents their vision of the classic California indoor-outdoor lifestyle. And in the same way that the home flows between inside and out, the couple moves seamlessly across design disciplines. Often, Mike envisions the big picture, while Jennifer focuses on the practicalities of execution. “It’s important to both of us that the different fields work together, that the land informs the architecture, and the architecture makes sense in the landscape,” explains Jennifer.

The pool area at Jennifer and Mike Lucas’ Healdsburg home. (Eileen Roche)
Mike, Flora, Jennifer, and Owen Lucas in their Healdsburg garden. (Eileen Roche)
Mike, Flora, Jennifer, and Owen Lucas in their Healdsburg garden. (Eileen Roche)

“That’s the ethos of what we do,” echoes Mike. “On projects, it’s all integrated—that’s where our strengths lie.” The couple bought their 1960s-era rancher in the Hidden Acres area in 2010, just after having their second child. “It’s kind of in this sweet spot in Healdsburg, with a lot of families—a real neighborhood,” says Jennifer. The tight-knit street, which ends in a cul-de-sac just a few minutes’ drive from the downtown plaza, has large lots for privacy and access to hiking on Fitch Mountain.

The family lived there for several years before launching into an extensive indoor renovation in 2017. When they bought the home, the primary bedroom and bath had already been relocated to a former garage—a positive step—but a poorly planned front entry and tiny kitchen hampered the flow. Jennifer’s new plan kept the home’s footprint the same but created a new entry with plenty of storage to help transition from the street to inside. She also expanded the kitchen into the space where the living room used to be and opened access to the backyard with smarter decking and a stairway down to a new pool area. “Our vision was that people would walk in the front door, come around the corner, and see things opening up, and get drawn out the doors to the back,” she says.

Inside, the home is now a bright, family-friendly space with a pair of big couches to sprawl out on, vibrant paintings from local artists (including daughter Flora’s class art, bought at a school auction), and tons of houseplants to further the indoor-outdoor feel. New lighting includes a large, round, Noguchi-style pendant that glows at night and can be seen from the garden below. “Lighting is like jewelry,” says Jennifer. “It’s not just the light they give, but how they finish the space.”

Landscape architect Mike Lucas on the porch overlooking his Healdsburg garden. (Eileen Roche)
Landscape architect Mike Lucas on the porch overlooking his Healdsburg garden. (Eileen Roche)
The Lucas family often dines outside in summer. (Eileen Roche)

While the couple waited to tackle a more major inside renovation, Mike started planning the backyard almost right after moving in, sketching out a series of semicircular stone walls and terraces to make the steep backyard more usable. “We were digging, camping out, doing burn piles, making bacon and eggs over a campfire in the backyard. I was just having a great time,” he says. “I really like the process a lot. And Owen, my son—he’s a real nature boy. We were like dogs, digging out there in the rain.”

The new walls, which define areas for dining, playing bocce, and gathering by a firepit, were dry-stacked in place using a native Sonoma County stone called tufa, a compressed volcanic ash. “It was challenging, because we didn’t really have much of a budget back then,” Mike explains. “And I think I tried probably a hundred different versions of the design…We were probably our own worst clients, in that way.”

Forming the terraces and walls took quite a lot of rock—so much so that neighbors started to wonder just exactly what was up at the Lucas house. “The truck would come and just dump huge piles of boulders and the neighbors would be like, ‘What are you doing? Where is this all going?’” says Jennifer. “It just kept coming and getting swallowed up by this black hole of a backyard.”

Surfboards at the ready in the garden. (Eileen Roche)
Surfboards at the ready in the garden. (Eileen Roche)
Colorful succulents are interplanted among the stones in the retaining walls. (Eileen Roche)
Colorful succulents are interplanted among the stones in the retaining walls. (Eileen Roche)

“The Hidden Acres mystery house,” laughs Mike. The couple both say that the renovations inside and out have helped them refine what smart, workable design means—and brought an understanding that more isn’t always more. The deck, for example, used to wrap all the way around the back of the home.

“We used it like mad,” says Jennifer. “But we realized people w ouldn’t necessarily go down into the garden that much, because the decks just weren’t designed that way. So in this remodel, we made the deck smaller but made the access down to the pool really inviting.”

Back in the 1970s, the home had a reputation for being the neighborhood hangout—and with a reorganized interior and backyard, the 2023 version of the home is no different. This time of year, the Lucas family makes heavy use of the pool, with Owen and Flora organizing family jumping contests off the walls into the deep end. Jennifer and Mike are usually with neighbors, getting together for drinks and grilling outside.

“I have a system,” says Jennifer. “I have a basket that I just fill up with picnic plates and utensils, and we have a big cooler that we set up—it’s all about the system.” A flat lawn would be an easier space to use and entertain in, they acknowledge, but wouldn’t hold the visual interest and surprise of the terraced garden the couple has built together.

Inside, a large collection of houseplants, including a massive fiddle-leaf fig that Jennifer picked up for a song at Home Depot, flourishes in bright indirect light from a new skylight. The family’s two cats, Daphne and Nigel, like to nap in the stripe of warm sunshine coming through the glass door to the backyard. “We have such great light all the time. It’s always different—it’s great on the foggy days, and it’s great in the sun,” says Mike, who likes to stretch out on the deck off the dining area.

Jennifer and Mike bought the portrait, which is painted on wood, years ago from local designer Myra Hoefer. Lush plants further the home’s indoor-outdoor connections. (Eileen Roche)
Jennifer and Mike bought the portrait, which is painted on wood, years ago from local designer Myra Hoefer. Lush plants further the home’s indoor-outdoor connections. (Eileen Roche)
The primary bathroom, with a door that leads directly to the garden. (Eileen Roche)
The primary bathroom, with a door that leads directly to the garden. (Eileen Roche)

The couple always pictured that they’d stay forever in the home, but they’re not ruling out working on another house together somewhere in Healdsburg, where their business is based. This house, after all, is meant to be a family home, and with their son off to college this fall to study design, and their daughter in high school, they say they’re open to possibilities. “We’ve learned a lot here, so I do think about what the next place could be like,” says Jennifer.

In the meantime, they’ll revel in summertime by the pool with their kids and take satisfaction in the stone walls, those many truckloads of tufa stone carried down from the street and painstakingly fitted and stacked in back. They bring a timelessness to the landscape, a sense of grounding in nature and space, explains Mike. “Those walls could be here for a hundred years or more. The rock’s not going anywhere— so yeah, I hope the next people like them.”

Jennifer and Mike Lucas’s book, “Architectural Gardens: Inside the Landscapes of Lucas & Lucas,” written with former Garden Design magazine editor in chief Thad Orr, was published last year. It’s available in Healdsburg at Levin & Co. Lucas & Lucas, 707-431-2790, lucas-lucas.com