Pool. (Jan Pechbrenner / Sotheby’s International Realty)
A transitional style home on an acre in the Mission Highlands area of Sonoma is currently listed for sale. The three-bedroom, three-and-a-half-bathroom, 3,800-square-foot dwelling has an asking price of $2,495,000.
The interior is airy and light-drenched thanks to several double-hung windows, French doors and an open floor plan. Wood floors, cabinets and grandly sized ceiling beams on the inside warm the design.
Living room. (Jan Pechbrenner / Sotheby’s International Realty)Balcony. (Jan Pechbrenner / Sotheby’s International Realty)
The exterior enjoys the warmth of a shingled siding, which is crisply contrasted with white trim. Show-stopping tree and valley views are accessible along the length of the home via windows and balconies.
Amenities in the main bedroom include a gas fireplace, a private balcony, and a soaking tub and walk-in shower in the en suite bathroom.
The 1-acre property includes a pool with fountains, palms trees and a large surround of greenery.
For more information on this home at 17371 High Road in Sonoma, contact listing agent Aaron Kopelman, 510-517-5453, Sotheby’s International Realty – Wine Country, Sonoma Brokerage, 793 Broadway, Sonoma, sothebysrealty.com
Lox & Latke Benedict with Caviar from Grossman’s Deli Friday, October 11, 2024, in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
KQED’s Emmy-winning restaurant review series “Check, Please! Bay Area” is returning in February with a fresh batch of new local favorite eateries to try. The only Sonoma County restaurant on the new season is Santa Rosa favorite Grossman’s Noshery & Bar.
The four-episode series — with host Leslie Sbrocco joined by three Bay Area locals — will air Thursdays beginning at 7:30 p.m., Feb. 6, on KQED 9. Grossman’s will be featured on the second episode, airing Feb. 13.
KQED’s announcement of the new season noted the “East Coast Jewish deli favorites” at Grossman’s, such as the “matzo ball soup, pickled fish boards and cinnamon babka.”
Brunch items include: a Lox & Latke Benedict that has housemade lox, schmaltz hollandaise and GB rye toast, front center, with beverages: coffee and a Weekend at Bubbie’s that has tequila, passionfruit, habanero syrup and tajin rim, at Grossman’s Noshery & Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, July 2, 2024. Other dishes are the Lox Plate, Terri’s Favorite with avocado toast, and GB Cinnamon Babka French Toast. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
Since then, Grossman’s has been a star among the local foodie world. The deli ranks among our favorite Sonoma County places for breakfast or a bagel. Last year, Yelp Elites named Grossman’s on its list of top 100 places to eat in the Bay Area.
Grossman’s is open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily for indoor and outdoor dining as well as for takeout. Deli and bakery items — such as house-smoked meats, half-pints of cold salads, and freshly baked bagels, bread and desserts — are also available for pickup at the deli counter.
The Faust Haus tasting room is inside a Victorian mansion in St. Helena. (Faust Haus)
If you’ve never heard the tale of “Faust,” it goes something like this: A discontented scholar makes a pact with the devil, trading his soul for limitless knowledge and worldly pleasures. (Spoiler alert: It does not go well for our tragic hero.) Named for the centuries-old legend, Faust Wines in St. Helena delivers on earthly delights — without the fiery consequences.
The story
Agustin and Valeria Huneeus, of Quintessa and Flowers fame, founded Faust Wines in 1998 and released the first wine in 2002. To support the brand, they planted more than 100 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon in what is now the Coombsville appellation — a cooler region at the southeast end of Napa. The Huneeus family found a dedicated home for Faust when St. Clement winery abruptly closed in 2016. After years of renovations on the 1870s mansion that formerly served as St. Clement’s tasting room, they opened Faust Haus in the fall of 2020.
The main floor at Faust Haus features a series of rooms with deeply colored blue and red walls. The rooms include plush, midcentury chairs in electric blue. (Faust Haus)Head up the staircase at Faust Haus, pausing to admire the hand-drawn mural by Parisian artist Roberto Ruspoli. (Faust Haus)
The vibe
It’s easy to spot Faust Haus from Highway 29. It’s the black Victorian mansion on the hill, just a half mile north of the Culinary Institute of America.
Everything about the building’s design whispers the story of Faust, from its black exterior to the darkness-to-light theme that runs throughout the house. The cellar, rumored to have operated as a speakeasy during Prohibition, is a dimly lit, intimate space with stone walls and lounge seating. The mood begins to lighten up on the main floor, which features a series of rooms with deeply colored blue and red walls, and plush chairs in electric blue.
Head up the staircase, pausing to admire the hand-drawn mural by Parisian artist Roberto Ruspoli, and you’ll reach the “heavens.” Adorned with white paint and contemporary blonde wood furniture, this top-floor tasting space is bathed in light. The outdoor terrace is almost as impressive, with its custom-designed, midcentury furniture and hilltop views across Highway 29 and the valley below.
The Pact Coombsville Cabernet Sauvignon from Faust Haus in St. Helena. (Faust Haus)
On the palate
The winery’s lineup includes two labels: the nationally distributed Faust and The Pact, a smaller-production brand focused on Coombsville estate fruit. The 2022 Faust Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($65) is bold and concentrated, with black cherry fruit and impressive balance. The Pact 2021 Coombsville Cabernet Sauvignon ($125) is a deep and complex wine that shows off sweet and savory aromas, plus rich blueberry and black cherry flavors. The Lure 2021 Coombsville Merlot ($90) might just be my favorite, with its plush texture, aromas of tobacco spice and plummy fruit flavor.
Tastings range from $75 for a sampling of limited-production estate wines to $150 for an immersive experience that includes a tour of the property, barrel tasting, library wines, and pairings with local cheeses and charcuterie. The Winter in the Winery tasting ($100), offered on Fridays and Saturdays, features an array of artisan charcuteries, cheeses and housemade snacks.
The Faust Haus outdoor terrace is impressive, with its custom-designed, midcentury furniture and hilltop views of the valley below. (Faust Haus)
Beyond the bottle
To continue exploring stately mansions, have lunch at Violetto, set inside a 1907 Georgian-style home at the nearby Alia Napa Valley resort. The restaurant showcases modern food from Northern Italy, and it even offers a lunchtime tasting menu. Go for the griddled mortadella sandwich with charred broccoli rabe from the à la carte offerings. Or, if you’re in the mood to linger, choose the three-course prix fixe ($45 per person).
Faust Wines, 2867 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena. 707-200-2560, faustwines.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.
Ella Venne, left, searches through the remnants of her family’s home destroyed by the Eaton Fire in Altadena, Calif., Saturday, Jan. 11, 2025. (AP Photo/Mark J. Terrill, File)
“They have no idea what they’re in for,” said a friend recently as we discussed the wildfires ravaging the Los Angeles area.
After weathering multiple firestorms in Sonoma County, we know that dousing the flames isn’t the end of this tragedy.
It’s just the end of the beginning.
Reality doesn’t truly set in until the fires are out, the Red Cross packs up its tents, the fire brigades head home, and the nation’s goodwill turns toward something else.
Rebuilding homes, businesses and lives takes months, years, even decades.
There are a million things fire survivors haven’t even begun to think about — the piles of paperwork, insurance settlements (or not), finding new housing, new schools and a semblance of stability.
In 2017, as the Tubbs Fire still burned in Santa Rosa, I founded Sonoma Family Meal. This emergency feeding operation provided thousands of ready-to-eat meals made by chefs, restaurateurs and an army of volunteers. Over five years, we provided nearly 800,000 meals through three wildfires and the COVID-19 pandemic.
Over five years, Sonoma Family Meal provided nearly 800,000 meals through three wildfires and the COVID-19 pandemic. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat, 2017)
I learned firsthand that money flows like water during a crisis, but dries to a trickle within a few weeks. Survivors need our help — more than ever — in the aftermath, in the arduous times of rebuilding.
I also found out that donating money to local, on-the-ground organizations is far more impactful than anything else you can do.
Right now, national and international aid organizations are on the ground in Southern California. In the long term, the community needs to invest in local resources. In Sonoma Family Meal’s case, we connected with local restaurants, farms and ranches to protect our local food ecosystem.
If you want to help Los Angeles fire survivors, here’s what I recommend.
1. Do not send clothing, hygiene items or any other physical items unless you are specifically asked.
Right now, the city’s already strained resources are focused on putting out the fires and can’t support distribution of donated goods. During Sonoma County fires, I have watched hundreds of pounds of clothing and food go into dumpsters because it was donated in excess.
2. Make donations to Los Angeles-based organizations.
Jennifer Gray Thompson, the CEO of After the Fire USA (formerly North Bay Rebuild Foundation), recommends The California Community Foundation, The Malibu Boys and Girls Club and Project Camp, offering pop-up camps for children to play during recovery efforts. Find more advice on how to help in the best possible way in this The Press Democrat article. The Los Angeles Times also has a list of recommended organizations.
3. Find industry-specific organizations.
If you would like to support a particular cause, there are industry-specific organizations to seek out. Many restaurants and their employees, for example, have been affected by the Los Angeles fires.
— Restaurants Care is offering grants and food for restaurant workers.
— World Central Kitchen (WCK) is feeding thousands, and Wine Country chefs, including Guy Fieri and Tyler Florence, are helping with food relief together with the WCK teams. Fieri brought his own barbecue trailer to Los Angeles earlier this week.
— The Sik Faan Fund is purchasing meals from restaurants for first responders and evacuees.
Mochi donuts, gluten-free summer squash tartlets, left, and Earl Grey polenta olive oil cakes, right, at The Altamont General Store in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)
One of the most coveted recognitions in the Sonoma County food world isn’t a Michelin star or rave critical review — it’s the Snail of Approval. Awarded by two local chapters of the Slow Food organization — Russian River and Sonoma County North — it is handed out annually to restaurants, food producers and farms that honor the practice of making good, clean and fair food for all people.
The criteria for receiving the award are many, requiring multiple visits from Slow Food officials who assess aspects of the business like its sustainability, ethical sourcing, environmental impacts, cultural connections and community involvement.
There already are a number of local restaurants and food producers who, in addition to the 2024 winners, have received the Snail of Approval, including Psychic Pie in Sebastopol, Americana in Santa Rosa, Tilted Shed Ciderworks in Windsor and COOKIE…take a bite! in Santa Rosa. (See the full list at slowfoodsonomacountynorth.org)
Leith Leiser-Miller and Nicholi Ludlow, right, serving up their Psychic Pie pizza to attendees during the Snail of Approval awards ceremony held at Grange Hall in Sebastopol, Wednesday, Feb. 28, 2024. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)The Boho Bowl includes stewed French lentils, rice, pickled beets, Brussel sprouts, curried cauliflower, arugula, roasted root vegetables, sauerkraut, pumpkin seeds, chimichurri sauce, and creme fraiche at The Altamont General Store. Photo taken in Occidental on Thursday, May 13, 2021. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)
Here are the 2024 Snail of Approval winners:
Nightingale Breads: 6665 Front St., Forestville, 707-887-8887, nightingalebreads.com
Golden State Pickle Works: Available at Oliver’s, the Friday Sonoma Valley Farmers Market and the Saturday Napa Farmers Market. 510-717-7484, goldenstatepickleworks.com
Croque-Monsieur from Maison Porcella in Windsor, April 13, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)A selection of products from Leslie Goodrich, owner of LaLa’s Jam Bar and Urban Farmstand in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Lala’s Jam Bar: 720 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 707-773-1083, lalasjams.com
Woodlands Charcuterie: Multiple farmers markets locations weekly. Details at woodlandscharcuterie.com
Peanut butter pie at Hazel restaurant in Occidental. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Occidental’s Hazel restaurant will migrate to a new location later this year, according to owners Jim and Michele Wimborough. The 1,300-square-foot restaurant they’ve leased for nearly a decade is in escrow to a new buyer who is rumored to be a chef.
The Wimboroughs are taking the news in stride, knowing the building was slated to be sold. They’re already looking for Hazel’s next location — but it’s business as usual until October. Their current lease is through December 2025.
Michele Wimborough holding her pumpkin pie with walnut streusel at Hazel in Occidental. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Various pies at Hazel restaurant in Occidental. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
“It’s bittersweet to think about leaving this amazing community we’ve called home for nearly 10 years, but we’re staying positive and embracing this as a new adventure,” wrote the couple on the restaurant’s Instagram.
Hazel’s historic building at 3782 Bohemian Highway is listed at $700,000 on several commercial real estate sites. Broker Jeff Sacher confirmed that the location has a potential buyer, but escrow has not closed. This is a developing story.
Wine is poured for a wine-blending session at the Meadowcroft Wines tasting room at Cornerstone on Arnold Drive in Sonoma on Friday, Dec. 20, 2024. (Robbi Pengelly / Index-Tribune)
Way back in the day some 10 years ago, wine tasting in Sonoma and Napa counties was a pretty easy affair. You stopped by the winery — generally no appointment needed — and tasted wines to see if there was one (or more) that you loved. You bought a bottle of that wine, or didn’t.
Most of the tastings were free, as part of the winery’s cost of doing business to showcase their work. Of the wineries that did charge a nominal fee, many subtracted that cost from any wine you purchased. In 2012, just 13.4% of Napa wineries and 14.6% of Sonoma County wineries charged tasting fees, according to the Silicon Valley Bank 2012 Direct to Consumer Wine Report.
These days, tasting wine can seem like a luxury. I visit wineries nearly every week, and it never ceases to amaze me how expensive tastings can be. The entry-level price of a Sonoma County wine tasting rose from $36 in 2022 to $43 today, notes the 2024 Direct to Consumer Wine Report. And in Napa, it’s even more pricey, with a standard wine tasting averaging $75.
Wine tasting in Calistoga. (Courtesy of Visit Calistoga)
I fondly remember the glory years when one of my favorite destinations, Heitz Cellar in St. Helena (436 St. Helena Highway), offered free tastings of its gorgeous, high-end wines, as it had since opening in 1961. Then, in 2018, Kathleen Heitz Myers, former president and CEO of the winery and daughter of founders Joe and Alice Heitz, sold the business to billionaire investor and business owner Gaylon M. Lawrence, Jr.
After an extensive remodeling and expansion, Heitz reopened in 2022, with fees ranging from $125 to — gulp — $1,000. To be fair, I checked this week and found the $1,000 tasting has been deleted from the winery website. The most expensive tasting now is $350, Napa locals can get a tasting of four wines for $50, and there is a note on the winery website stating that tasting fees “may” be credited with the purchase of wine or a club membership sign-up.
But really, do I want to have to wonder if I need to refinance my house in order to pay for a few precious sips of wine I may not even like?
Fortunately, some local wineries still offer complimentary tastings. Particularly in the slow-season winter months, we can sip without shelling out the big bucks even before we buy a bottle. It makes sense for the wineries: In the current extra-challenging and competitive direct sales market, wineries need to be more flexible to engage with consumers and close the deals. Here are a few to consider for your next tasting experience.
Wine is poured for a wine-blending session at the Meadowcroft Wines tasting room at Cornerstone on Arnold Drive on Friday, Dec. 20, 2024. (Robbi Pengelly / Index-Tribune)
Meadowcroft Wines
It’s not the lovely winery owner Tom Meadowcroft’s fault that his beloved business is in Sonoma’s Cornerstone marketplace, which has lost most of its tenants and customers after the LeFever Mattson real estate investment company purchased the property in 2019 and have since nearly driven it into the ground with their financial shenanigans (currently under federal investigation).
So remember to visit Meadowcroft and try their seated, guided tasting of four wines for free ($25 value, offered through March 31). You can sit in the colorful, chic salon, or on the patio/porch framed by vines, and sample a changing selection from the expansive portfolio of sparklings, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, French Colombard, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and so much more.
Founders Adam McClary and Gabrielle Shaffer want us to “party like it’s 1999” with their boutique, small-production Cabernet Francs and Chenin Blancs. So at their quirky-freaky-fun little tasting saloon in downtown Napa, they welcome us with a Wild Wild West Tasting that delivers three notable wines and costs us nothing. Nada, zippo, zilch.
Gamling & McDuck Wine in Napa. (Gamling & McDuck Wine)
“It’s basically time travel to the good ole days,” McClary said, noting that the experience is about sampling wine to see if you like it, “not Ted Talks about winemaking and the history of Napa Valley.”
If you do want more personal guidance — “rambling talk about viticulture and fermentation or comparing pictures of pets” — plus broader wine styles, you can ramp things up to a Big Picture tasting for $35, or a Club Tasting for $70.
The artsy oasis in Geyserville is tiny. Really tiny. So owner, grape grower and winemaker Bill Frick admits only four guests at a time at his little roadhouse on a remote country lane, and personally serves you. It’s a magical, down-to-earth experience as he leads you through his cherished Cinsaut, Counoise, Carignane, Mourvedre, Syrah, Viognier and Rhône blends sourced from his 7.77-acre hillside estate.
A variety of wines at Frick Winery near Geyserville. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Hours are limited to 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday and walk-ins are welcome. But I strongly suggest booking a time on the website to make sure Frick isn’t pulled away by one of the endless chores he cheerfully tackles.
And be sure to tell him congratulations — 2025 marks the winery’s 49th year; Bill and his wife, Judith Gannon, started this adventure in 1976 with proceeds from the sale of their 1957 Chevrolet.
Dick Handal and his daughter Doralice Handal (also a cheese expert) are rockstars in the culinary and wine industries, and make their own wine under their Denier-Handal brand. Somehow they find time to also manage this industrial-fashionable space in downtown Geyserville, herding together (like cats, indeed) a changing array of six to eight different wineries.
And somehow, they manage to share splashes of the good stuff with us for free.
Locals Tasting room in Geyserville. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
It’s a wonderful, unique concept, offering flight tastings that allow you to parallel taste a singular wine variety made by different winemakers. For example, five different aromatic white wines, or five different Pinot Noirs, so you can compare and contrast.
Likely you’ve never heard of the tiny-batch brand names, such as Drive, in homage to the vintage car repair shop where owners John Musto and Tom Young made their first experimental wines.
Check the constantly changing list of limited production wines on the website, or even better, just stop in frequently to chat with Doralice about her beautiful North Coast Denier-Handal Verdelho (she will be delighted to give you expert suggestions for mouthwatering food pairings, too).
Visiting Korbel Champagne Cellars in Guernville is like taking a step back in time; the cellars first opened in 1882. The historic building, is a different sort of tasting room experience with rich history and delicious glass of bubbly. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Yes, they can call it Champagne, because Korbel has been around since 1882, and they are grandfathered in to use the designation that France now so fiercely protects. The brick castle-like structure looks like it belongs in Europe, too, draped in vines and surrounded by forests and lush gardens.
You kick off your visit with a complimentary tasting of Korbel Natural California Champagne, and can also enjoy a complimentary walking tour of the winery’s historic museum and cellar.
13250 River Road, Guerneville, 707-824-7000, korbel.com
Passport Programs
Winter in the Wineries Passport, Napa Valley and beyond
They’re not technically free tastings, but are pretty close. During the low season, some local towns and cities put together limited time deals where you can taste at multiple locations for one all-inclusive price.
Calistoga Chamber of Commerce offers a package of complimentary tastings, called Winter in the Wineries Passport, at 19 wineries in and around Calistoga. (Courtesy of Visit Calistoga)
Calistoga Chamber of Commerce, for example, offers a package of complimentary tastings, called Winter in the Wineries Passport, at 19 wineries in and around Calistoga, including Pope Valley and St. Helena, as well as in Lake County, for just $80 (valid to Feb. 9). You can taste at each location once, and get a stamp in your passport at each to mark your progress.
Participating wineries include top-level names like Charles Krug Winery, Château Montelena, Elusa Winery and Sterling Vineyards; the combined value is $800, says the Chamber.
Purchase your passport at visitcalistoga.com, or at Calistoga Welcome Center, 1457 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga.
Passport to Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County
Put Passport to Dry Creek Valley on your calendar for April 26 and 27. The weekend is a great way to explore 25-plus wineries along a 16-by-2-mile stretch of paradise, stopping and tasting along the way. Some wineries offer food and live entertainment, and winemakers are often on hand for meet-and-greets.
This year, for the first time, you can get single-day tickets. Costs range from $95 for single day ($35 for nondrinking designated drivers) to $175 for both days.
Get an early start on Friday, April 25, with 2-for-1 tastings at micro wineries not always open to the public (the discounted bonus is included in your regular Passport ticket). And for a primo party, attend the welcome gala that Friday night at Bacchus Landing in Healdsburg, where you’ll enjoy tastings from 20-plus wineries, food from chefs cooking over live fires, and music from DJ Saint Rose Disco (tickets are $150).
Note that prices will increase March 2, so get your tickets now. Purchase your passport at drycreekvalley.org
For a group tasting the Mable’s Experience with Red Cabbage & Apple Sauerkraut, homemade kimchi
Beet Salad, Sprouted Hummus and seasonal vegetables, Honeynut Squash/Nettle/Sunchoke Dips, Tinned Trout and a housemade Pickle Plate from Mable’s Restaurant and Patio at the newly renovated Lodge at Marconi Thursday, Jan. 9, 2025, in Marshall. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Hidden under the marine layer of far West Marin, Tomales Bay is an otherworldly sliver of water straddled by Point Reyes National Seashore and acres of grazing land that stretch to Petaluma. Best known for its oyster farms, fish shacks, beaches, cheese making and forest-bathing opportunities, it’s a locals’ getaway for much of the winter and a year-round destination for shuckers.
At the halfway point between Marshall and Point Reyes Station is Marconi State Historic Park, 62 acres of coastal forests and meadows once used as a telegraph relay station by Guglielmo Marconi in the early 1900s. From his outpost on a hill facing Tomales Bay, Marconi sent the first radio communications from California to Hawaii and Japan — a link that brought instant communication worldwide for the first time.
Amid the mossy cypress and eucalyptus groves is the historic Marconi Hotel and newly renovated Lodge at Marconi, a group of cabins, lofts and event spaces dotted around the property. The on-site restaurant, Mable’s, serves as a restaurant for guests, a catering hub for events and is open to the public for dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
Though the menu takes inspiration from the nearby waters, executive chef Les Goodman intentionally shied away from adding another seafood shack to the mix.
Chef Les Goodman brings his take on Middle Eastern/Jewish cuisine to the new Mable’s Restaurant and Patio at the renovated Lodge at Marconi Thursday, Jan. 9, 2025, in Marshall. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
“The menus directly on the Bay, they’re just very classic fish houses, and that’s what people want. I wanted to bring something very different, especially for the locals,” said Goodman, whose resume includes Dry Creek Kitchen, several restaurants in Las Vegas, teaching at Sur La Table and owning a small catering company. His farmers market pop-up, Goodman’s Deli, featured favorite Jewish dishes and Middle Eastern classics.
At Mable’s, Goodman brings his fine dining technique to a menu that moves from Mediterranean to Japanese to French to Russian with as much fluidity as the morning fog.
“A lot of those flavors I love, so (I’m) trying to bring that into a very globally-inspired menu that’s focused on locality, using farms within a few hundred miles, within three or four counties,” said Goodman. Fish, of course, is mainly sourced from nearby fishing boats.
Mable’s menu is hyper-seasonal and Goodman likes to change it almost daily based on what’s come in from the farms, while using or reusing ingredients in a few dishes. So, if you love one night’s “Under a Fur Coat salad” (see explanation below), it may or may not be on the menu the next day.
Mable’s Restaurant and Patio features a large selection of Tinned Fish with pickled vegetables and fried saltines Thursday, Jan. 9, 2025, at the newly renovated Lodge at Marconi in Marshall. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Goodman’s daily specials, however, lift away any disappointment. On one of my visits just before Hanukkah, Goodman made potato latkes with smoked salmon and pomegranate seeds.
What you won’t want to miss is The Mable Experience. It consists of eight to 10 small plates that cover the table like a fog, according to Goodman, much like Korean banchan. The lineup typically includes fermented and pickled vegetables, seasonal salads like beet with horseradish crème fraîche and dill, tinned fish and kimchi.
“The experience is my play on the name Mable, which means ‘marine atmospheric boundary layer — MABL,'” said Goodman. (Much of Tomales Bay is influenced by an insulated layer near the ocean’s surface, bridging sea and sky and serving up plenty of fog, rain and cool temperatures.)
Mable’s isn’t much to see on the outside, boxy and utilitarian, but inside, the 100-seat restaurant is a warm, modern retreat where you’ll find a mix of the Patagonia set and locals. The 1,300-square-foot deck overlooking Tomales Bay has stunning views when the weather cooperates.
For me, Mable’s at the Lodge at Marconi is a restaurant that captures the enchanting flavors between land and sea unique to the Sonoma-Marin coast, magically.
Best Bets
For a group tasting the Mable’s Experience with Red Cabbage & Apple Sauerkraut, housemade kimchi Beet Salad, Sprouted Hummus and seasonal vegetables, Honeynut Squash/Nettle/Sunchoke Dips, Tinned Trout and a housemade Pickle Plate from Mable’s Restaurant and Patio at the newly renovated Lodge at Marconi Thursday, Jan. 9, 2025, in Marshall. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Housemade Sourdough Focaccia with house cultured butter in its own buttermilk and Hog Island sea salt from Mable’s Restaurant and Patio at the newly renovated Lodge at Marconi Thursday, Jan. 9, 2025, in Marshall. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The Mables Experience, $45 per person: A sampling of chef Goodman’s seasonal bites from ocean to farm. Eight or nine small plates usually include pickled vegetables, hummus, salads and other nibbles — often from the menu, but sometimes not — a good introduction to the flavors and ethos of the restaurant.
Sourdough Focaccia, $10: Thick slabs of airy focaccia are best slathered with house-cultured butter with a float of buttermilk.
McFarland Springs Hot Smoked Trout, $18: McFarland Farms hot smoked trout is mixed with crème fraîche for a creamy spread served with fried saltines and pickled veggies. If you’re big on tinned fish, there’s an extensive artisan collection including sardines in yuzu kosho or coconut curry sauce, Jamaican jerk rockfish or lemon caper mackerel ($13 to $18).
Seasonal Dips: Chef Goodman is a whiz with flavor-punched sprouted hummus with za’atar and harissa; tart turmeric-infused labneh (cheese made from strained yogurt) with smoked olive oil; or pureed honeynut squash with toasted sesame and date syrup that’s sweet and earthy. Served with seasonal veggies.
Fish Stew with Tomales bay mussels, Manila clams, best local catch and grilled focaccia from Mable’s Restaurant and Patio at the newly renovated Lodge at Marconi Thursday, Jan. 9, 2025 in Marshall. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Daily Fish Stew for Two, $62: The green Le Creuset-style Dutch oven is the only thing constant about this seafood pot-au-feu (“stew” seems too common a name). There will be seafood, mostly from nearby, that includes the daily catch, also maybe with mussels. Always with housemade focaccia to sop up the goodness. Goodman rotates the base broth with flavors from Spain, Italy, France, Indonesia and Japan.
Milk and Cookies, $10: Baked to order, it takes about 20 minutes for this must-have dessert. Hot chocolate chip cookies are paired with a firm block of buttermilk panna cotta for a grown-up version of this childhood favorite.
May or may not be on the menu
Shuba “Under a Fur Coat” Salad, $23: This classic Ukrainian seven-layer dip gets a Tomales makeover with diced potato, smoked trout, pickles, carrots, beet, aioli, egg and dill. It’s a complicated dish, said Goodman, so on busy nights, it isn’t always available — the best of Eastern Europe in a convenient, scoopable stack.
Grilled Kofta Meatballs, $19: The zing of Goodman’s shakshuka ragout — made with tomato and red pepper — pools around spiced Stemple Creek Ranch beef meatballs with Tomales Farm feta. Served in a piping hot clay ramekin, it’s a signature shareable dish cozier than a sheepskin rug by a roaring fire.
Mable’s at The Lodge at Marconi, 18500 CA Highway 1, 415-663-9020, mablesrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended.
Lox bagel from Marla Bakery pop-up at Spinster Sisters in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Marla Bakery)
As with most iconic foods, the exact origin of the bagel is largely unknown and highly debated — mostly because ring-shaped bread has been made by a variety of cultures for centuries. However, the earliest known appearance of what resembles the modern-day bagel first appeared in 1300s Poland as obwarzanek, a braided ring of dough that’s boiled, sprinkled with seasoning and then baked.
The bagel migrated from Eastern Europe to the United States during the 19th century, where it was primarily found in Jewish immigrant markets, but didn’t make it into the mainstream world of baked goods until the 1970s. Since then, bagels have exploded in popularity across the nation — and now you don’t need to travel to New York to nab a good authentic one. As former New York City resident Tejal Rao wrote in a controversial article for The New York Times: the best bagels are in California.
Sonoma County should be no exception to the West Coast’s bagel boom, so here are 12 places to grab the finest bagels around.
Bagels from Healdsburg Bagel Company in Healdsburg. (Courtesy Drew Ross)Ellie’s Spicy Eggel with eggs, pepper jack cheese, avocado and tomato on an everything bagel from Grateful Bagel on Fourth Street in Santa Rosa, July 12, 2024. (Maci Martell/Sonoma Magazine)
Healdsburg Bagel Company
Using quality ingredients to create traditional New York-style bagels, Healdsburg Bagel Company owner Drew Ross and his team churn out made-to-order batches of fresh bagels daily. The handmade bagels come out soft with a crisp outside and loaded with flavor, like the generously-coated everything bagel or the cheesy pizza bagel. Plus, the shop makes and sells its own cream cheese schmears, bagel chips and all-beef bagel dogs. Find fresh HBC bagels at the shop as well as at Big John’s Market and various local farmers markets. Ross opened a Jewish-style delicatessen, called Drewish Deli, at the former Wyldwood restaurant in 2023.
Serving up great bagels since 1979, the modest Grateful Bagel sites in Santa Rosa and Sebastopol are local hot spots for a quick breakfast sandwich or midday bagel bite. Favorites include a pesto bagel with a simple schmear; Ellie’s Spicy Eggel with eggs, pepper jack cheese, avocado and tomato; and the Wild Boar, a classic ham, egg and cheese combo on a cheesy jalapeño bagel. In November of 2024, a Grateful Bagel location opened in the former JavAmore Cafe in Penngrove.
631 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-535-0570; 925 Corporate Center Parkway, Suite E, Santa Rosa, 707-522-1388; 300 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-829-5220; 10101 Main St., Suite A, Penngrove, 707-794-1516
Marla SR Bakery and Cafe
When Marla opened in 2023 in Railroad Square, customers who previously tried chef/owner Amy Brown’s baked goods at pop-ups and farmers markets lined up eagerly awaiting toasty bagels and giant croissants. For a sit-down breakfast at the cafe, order your choice of bagel topped with butter, farmers cheese, house-cured and smoked trout, or house spread with seasonal veggies. Need a bulk of carbs to go? Order the box of a half dozen bagels — two Maldon salt, two sesame, one poppyseed and one seeded — from the online shop for pickup.
A variety of freshly baked bagels from Marla bakery in Santa Rosa. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)Lox Plate with plain cream cheese, tomato, cucumber, onion, capers and GB bagel at Grossman’s Noshery & Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, July 2, 2024. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
Grossman’s Noshery & Bar
This New York-style deli located in Santa Rosa’s historic Railroad Square district has a diverse menu of Jewish cuisine, including, of course, freshly baked bagels that are perfectly toasty and chewy. Try the simple yet elegant salt bagel with a housemade scallion cream cheese schmear or the Brooklyn Bagel Sandwich with lox, cucumber, tomato, sliced onion, schmear and dill on a toasted everything bagel.
308 1/2 Wilson St., Santa Rosa, 707-595-7707, grossmanssr.com
Café des Croissants
For a tasty, affordable bagel to-go, swing by any of the Café des Croissants locations. There are a variety of cream cheese spreads and bagel sandwich combos to choose from, such as honey walnut schmear on a blueberry bagel, or the popular Loxy Lady sandwich with lox, capers, tomatoes, onions and cream cheese.
For a proper New York-style bagel in a small town shop, look no further than New York Bagel in Rohnert Park’s Park Plaza Center. With a vast assortment of bagel flavors and add-ons, it’s hard to go wrong with these dense, chewy bagels generously topped with your favorite fixings. Local favorites include the jalapeño cheese bagel with bacon and eggs or a plain cream cheese spread, and the Manhattan Grille on an everything bagel stacked with melted Monterey Jack cheese, alfalfa sprouts, tomatoes and scallion cream cheese.
6400 Commerce Blvd., Rohnert Park, 707-588-0414
Sonoma Valley Bagel
With three locations and a host of bagel options to choose from, Sonoma Valley Bagel has something for everyone. Bagels here are traditionally made: kettle-boiled then baked for a hearty crunch and soft chew. The pizza and cinnamon sugar bagels are kid favorites; and the spinach parmesan and sourdough bagels are great for those who prefer slightly more sophisticated bagel sandwiches.
130 Stony Point Road, Santa Rosa, 707-578-7005; 1451 Southwest Blvd., Rohnert Park, 707-793-9990; 350 Rohnert Park Expressway W., Rohnert Park, 707-585-8095, sonomavalleybagel.com
Classic Lox at The Bagel Mill in Petaluma. (Courtesy The Bagel Mill)
The Bagel Mill
The Bagel Mill combines traditional bagel-making techniques with quality ingredients to create organic sourdough bagels, ensuring a great chew full of flavor every time. A fan favorite is the marble rye bagel, which pairs especially well with the housemade green olive cream cheese spread. The pesto bagel is another crowd-pleaser, as it’s flavorful enough to be eaten on its own and heightens any sandwich option you prefer, such as the Classic Lox spread or the loaded Spicy Turkey Club.
When it comes to hearty wholegrain, gluten-free, vegan bagels, Mama Mel’s is the cream of the crop. Its New York-style bagels are made with gluten-free flours and are steam-baked for a golden crust and chewy bite. The three-seed bagel contains a blend of organic chia, sesame and poppy seeds, giving the bagel a mild nutty flavor and satisfying crunch. Other favorites include the robust onion bagel and the naturally sweet blueberry bagel.
Order online for pick-up at Mama Mel’s Kitchen in Petaluma or find Mama Mel’s baked goods at the Santa Rosa Community Farmers Market on select Saturdays. Mama Mel’s also supplies its gluten-free bread and bagels to various locations across the county.
431 Payran St., Building C, Petaluma, 707-595-0980, mamamelsbread.com
Noah’s NY Bagels
With a wide assortment of freshly baked bagels, schmears, sandwiches and catering options, Noah’s is a local one-stop-shop for a quick bagel fix. Standouts include the gourmet challah and six cheese bagel, which pairs well with the signature Breakfast BLT sandwich with thick-cut bacon, eggs, spinach, tomato and parmesan aioli.
375 S. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-766-9651, noahs.com
Homegrown Bagels
Homegrown Bagels in Sonoma has been serving fresh bagels with a great chew and a firm, golden crust since 1978. With a healthy selection of bagels, spreads and creative bagel sandwich options, the fun bagel combinations are endless. For a farm-fresh delight, try the Veggie Sandwich on a tomato basil bagel. If you prefer a good hunk of protein in your bagel sandwich, go for the Petaluma Meltdown with grilled chicken breast, bacon and provolone on a classic sesame seed bagel.
Freshly baked sesame seed bagels at Homegrown Bagels in Sonoma. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)Tony Peña makes bagels early in the morning at Homegrown Bagels in Sonoma. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Flavia’s
This Cloverdale Mexican restaurant serves up a unique combination of great-tasting tortas, birria and bagels. Make your own bagel sandwich at the bagel bar, which has over a dozen different bagels to choose from along with various spreads, meats, veggies and cheeses. Or order a bagel sandwich off the menu, like the regular go-to Hot Mess bagel with egg, ham, cheese and chive cream cheese on an onion bagel. For a spicy kick to your morning, try the Choribagel — egg, cheese, chorizo and jalapeño on a jalapeño bagel.
Locals may come to this unassuming strip mall shop for the rich donuts and fritters, but its bagels are not to be missed. The spicy jalapeño cheese bagel is the hands-down fan favorite here, often filled with cream cheese or made into an egg sandwich.
1784 Piner Road, Santa Rosa, 707-541-0877
My Friend Joe Coffee
The ideal bagel spot for the weary college student, My Friend Joe across from the Santa Rosa Junior College campus serves up large, filling bagel sandwiches for folks on-the-go or in need of a study break. Using bagels from Grateful Bagel on Fourth Street and adding a generous amount of fresh ingredients, there are a variety of satisfying bagel sandwich options to choose from. A local favorite is the Pesto Manifesto on a cheesy pesto bagel with turkey, provolone, pesto, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle and pepperoncini.
1810 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-843-4966
Cafe Aquatica
Cafe Aquatica in Jenner is a charming place on the coast for breakfast or lunch. While this quaint coastal cafe may only have one bagel sandwich on the menu — the savory Lox Bagel with cream cheese, smoked salmon, capers, arugula and everything seeds on a toasted bagel — you can craft your own bagel from the modest sidebar menu. An open-faced bagel topped with avocado and a poached egg is a delicious, filling breakfast, or try the vibrant beet spread and roasted portobello mushrooms on a gluten-free bagel, courtesy of Mama Mel’s Kitchen.
The Los Angeles wildfires have forever changed the lives of thousands of people. It’s a story we know all too well in Wine Country. And though there are many miles between us, a number of hotel properties in Sonoma, Napa and Marin counties are offering free or discounted accommodations to those displaced by the fires in Southern California.
Lodge at Marconi, Marshall
Relative newcomer Lodge at Marconi is providing five complimentary nights to individuals and families displaced by the wildfires in Southern California. If more nights are needed, management company Oliver Hospitality has committed to working with guests to provide additional discounts.
Guest room at Lodge at Marconi in Marshall. (Courtesy Lodge at Marconi)
“Our mission at Oliver Hospitality is rooted in creating welcoming spaces where people can find comfort and community, especially during difficult times,” said Ashleigh Narcelles, VP of Sales and Revenue Strategies at Oliver Hospitality. “Offering five free nights at Lodge at Marconi to wildfire victims and evacuees is our way of extending that hospitality to those who need it most, providing a safe haven and a sense of relief as they navigate these challenging circumstances.”
Marconi’s sister property in South Lake Tahoe, Station House Inn, is extending the same invitation to fire victims; guests are asked to contact the hotel directly to book.
Ryoken Suite at Gaige House in Glen Ellen. (Courtesy Gaige House)The Astro is a retro motel just south of downtown Santa Rosa. (The Astro)
The Astro, Santa Rosa
In 2018, the not-yet-opened Astro became a refuge for Sonoma County evacuees. Now, the property is providing 30% off to anyone affected by the Los Angeles wildfires.
Call the hotel directly and ask for the Southern California Fire Rate to book.
323 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-200-4655, theastro.com
Hotel Healdsburg, Harmon Guest House and h2hotel, Healdsburg
Piazza Hospitality is offering 30% off stays of three nights or more for wildfire victims. The discount is valid through March and applies to all three of its Healdsburg properties.
The Rooftop Bar at Harmon Guest House in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Harmon Guest House)
Piazza’s Central Coast property, Hotel SLO in San Luis Obispo, is offering 25% off rooms and a $25 dining credit for fire victims. There is no minimum stay during the week; a two night minimum is required on weekends.
The Flamingo Resort & Spa and The Sandman, Santa Rosa
The Flamingo Resort and its sister property, The Sandman, are offering 20% off room rates through January as part of their “Find Refuge in Wine Country” specials. Reservations can be made online for The Flamingo and for The Sandman.
Farmhouse Inn, Forestville; MacArthur Place, Sonoma; and Hotel Les Mars, Healdsburg
All three of Foley Entertainment Group hotels in Sonoma County are offering 20% off the best available rate as well as waiving all daily resort fees on stays through April.
At Farmhouse Inn in Forestville. (Farmhouse Inn)
Additionally, guests of Farmhouse Inn receive a $50 credit at its Farmstand restaurant. At MacArthur Place, those displaced by the wildfires in Southern California receive a $50 spa credit. Those checking in at Hotel Les Mars receive a bottle of wine.
The booking code is CALLOVE; identification is required at check in. Reservations can be made online here for Farmhouse Inn, here for MacArthur Place and here for Hotel Les Mars.
Farmhouse Inn, 7871 River Road, Forestville, 800-464-6642, farmhouseinn.com; MacArthur Place, 29 E. MacArthur St., Sonoma, 707-938-2929, macarthurplace.com; Hotel Les Mars, 27 North St., Healdsburg, 707-433-4211, hotellesmars.com
Sister property Hotel Californian in Santa Barbara is offering a special rate of $349 plus taxes, a waived resort fee and waived pet fee to wildfire evacuees. Call the hotel directly to book.
