Sylvia Tucker looks over the shutdown production facility at Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. After selling their remaining inventory, the 45-year-old cheesemaking operation will officially close Jan. 31. Wednesday January 29, 2025. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
When Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. shut down production of its Portugese-style St. Jorge cheese in November 2024, the writing was on the wall. After selling their remaining inventory, the 45-year-old cheesemaking operation will officially close Jan. 31.
“We were just going underwater,” said owner Sylvia Tucker, daughter of founders Joe and Mary Matos. She points to her 84-year-old father’s declining health, an insurance claim that raised their rates by 25% and the growing political and economic pressures on small family dairies as the main reasons for the closure.
The family’s buttery, nutty aged raw milk cheese was produced on-site using milk from their 35 dairy cows and was a frequent sight on artisan charcuterie boards at restaurants and wineries. Joe Matos brought the seventh-generation recipe to Sonoma County from São Jorge Island in the Azorez, where he was born.
“Our dream was to keep it going for him through more generations. It’s just hard to see it end after so long,” Tucker said, tearing up during the phone interview. Her father understands the need for the closure, and now is focused on staying in his home as long as possible.
Sylvia Tucker visits with Matilda at Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. After selling their remaining cheese inventory, the 45-year-old cheesemaking operation will officially close Jan. 31. Photographed Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)After the whey has been drained from the curd, workers fill forms for the wheels of St. George’s cheese produced at the Joe Matos Cheese Factory in southwest Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The Matos’ closure could be sign of more trouble for artisan cheesemakers in the North Bay. In December, nearby Bohemain Creamery shuttered after 14 years.
“I think it’s going to get worse before it gets better,” Tucker said.
Local dairies, once plentiful, have precipitously dropped in recent years due to rising feed, fuel and labor costs. In early January, a dozen dairy and beef cattle farmers agreed to cease operations and suspend their leases after a drawn out battle over the Point Reyes National Seashore. Environmentalists hailed it as a win for the restoration of local flora and fauna.
“It’s generations of families all around us,” said Tucker.
Restaurateur Gerard Nebesky of Gerard’s Paella laments the loss.
“Joe Matos has been a secret weapon for Sonoma County chef arsenals for so many years. His cheese truly elevates anything it comes into play with. It’s just a shame to see this go,” Nebesky said.
For now, Tucker and her family plan to continue raising beef cattle. Plans to reopen the cheese factory someday are murky, but Tucker said she hopes to continue Matos’ legacy.
“I’m keeping most of my cows and maybe somewhere in the future I’ll be able to start it back up. That’s definitely my hope,” she said.
Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. will be open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily through Jan. 31 selling the last of its cheese. 3669 Llano Road, Santa Rosa, 707-584-5283, joematoscheeseco.com
The “Mother-Clucker” sandwich with twice fried chicken, slaw, pickled jalepeño, bang bang dip on a toasted brioche bun from Shokakko, an Asian street food truck on their regular Thursday night visit Jan. 23, 2025 at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
What happens when you merge crab Rangoon and mozzarella sticks?
A fantastical Franken-croquette stuffed with gooey cheese, dots of artificial crab and cream cheese enrobed in a crispy crust. It’s over-the-top like a hot fudge sundae with extra whipped cream — too much, but never enough.
It’s also how a trio of fine dining chefs have put their fledgling food truck, Shokakko, on the radar of Sonoma County foodies.
That, and their loaded fries with Spam.
Crab and Cheese Croquettes from Shokakko, an Asian street food truck, on their regular Thursday night visit, Jan. 23, 2025, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Kamikaze Fries with Mae Ploy mayo, Gochujang glaze, scallions and furikake with crispy cubes of fried spam from Shokakko, an Asian street food truck. Photographed on their regular Thursday night visit, Jan. 23, 2025, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
“It’s the things we liked eating on our days off. The stuff we couldn’t find in Sonoma County,” said chef Elijah Trujillo of the food trailer he cofounded with his partner Kayla Hendrix and friend Kazuya “Kaz” Makishima in August 2024.
Tired of fine dining foams and tweezers, this merry band of young chefs drew inspiration from the late-night yatai food stalls in Japan that sell ramen, fish cakes and skewers of grilled chicken. The trio uses highbrow culinary skills to create cream-filled fruit sandwiches, skyscraper-sized fried chicken sandwiches, pork katsu fries and husky crab and cheese-filled croquettes.
Shokakko, which means small but certain happiness in Japanese, is all about salty, sweet, creamy, spicy, hot mess dishes that go better with a pint of IPA than an oaky Cabernet.
On a warm Thursday evening in January, the 8-by-16-foot Shokakko trailer was parked outside Old Caz brewpub in Rohnert Park. It’s one of several breweries they visit in a monthly food truck round-robin. Some days, they are at private events or visit surefire nosh spots like Outer Planes comics and games in Santa Rosa, where they first set up shop.
By 5:30 p.m., there’s a growing line of hungry customers. Inside the narrow galley kitchen, Flo Rida sets the beat as the crew weaves around each other without a missed step. All three sport dark aprons, black shirts, messy buns and tattooed forearms, giving punk rock vibes.
But tidy containers of saffron threads and bias-cut scallions are unmistakable giveaways of their white-tablecloth backgrounds.
Pork Belly Donburi with kimchi, bok choy and bang bang dip from Shokakko, an Asian street food truck. Photographed on their regular Thursday night visit, Jan. 23, 2025, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Building the towering “Mother-Clucker” sandwich at Shokakko, an Asian street food truck on their regular Thursday night visit Jan. 23, 2025, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
“Two dons all day,” says Trujillo, while wrapping an intimidatingly large “Mother-Clucker” sandwich and relaying orders for donburi rice bowls ($16-18), best eaten with braised pork belly or Japanese curry. Vegetarian options are also available.
Makishima mans the fryer, turning out piles of Kamakazi fries ($12-$16) that are required eating. The weight of this overly-generous pile of seasoned fries is wrist-injuring and is drizzled with a sweet chili sauce mayo, gochujang glaze (made with chili crunch, fermented chili sauce and savory red chili paste) and furikake (a Japanese condiment). Add cubes of fried Spam to the unholy mound, because you can.
Twice-fried chicken sandwiches ($16) are five-napkin affairs. Go for the “Mother-Clucker” with piles of slaw, pickled jalapeños and “Bang Bang” dip made with gochujang, chili crunch and fermented chiles on a brioche bun. It’s fiery and filled with umami but not tongue-singeing.
Try everything
On a lucky night you can find specials like Miso Banana Pudding on the menu at Shokakko. Photographed Thursday, Jan. 23, 2025, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Hendrix is the doyenne of sweets. On my visit, her banana pudding layered with sweet-savory miso sauce is served in a cheeky 16-ounce Solo cup. It’s nostalgic and genre-bending but will inevitably give way to another of pastry chef Hendrix’s whims — like the Japanese milk bread sandwich filled with whipped cream and fruit that sends the Sonoma County Foodies Facebook page into a frenzy.
“It got ridiculous. They would sell out in an hour,” said Makishima of the snaking queues for the dessert. I hint that they should return them to the menu, but Hendrix isn’t biting. They all agree that changing the menu frequently is what makes the job fun.
There are plenty of other Shokakko goodies on the menu, including Spam Musubi ($6), black garlic string beans with fried shallots ($9) and a kids menu with chicken fingers or a veggie and rice bowl.
Topping rice with crispy Spam Musubi before wrapping the bundle in nori and Bachanm OG from Shokakko. Photographed on their regular Thursday night visit, Jan. 23, 2025, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Hendrix encourages people to dive into the menu with abandon and take a leap of faith.
“Don’t be afraid to order something you don’t know,” she said. “We’ve always got something new.”
You can find the Shokakko’s latest schedule of stops at Instagram.com/eat_shokakko. They’re typically open from 2 p.m. until they sell out Wednesday through Saturday, but the schedule changes frequently.
The Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini team, left to right, Em Grayho, co-owners chef Sean Quan and Jenny Phan with chef Clayton Carter run Forestville’s new restaurant, Oct. 17, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
On a chilly Monday afternoon, chef Sean Quan fills an electric kettle for tea behind the counter of Bazaar Sonoma, aka BaSo, the rural Forestville restaurant he co-owns with his wife, Jenny Phan.
It’s the couple’s only day off from running their increasingly busy operation, and as Quan waits for the water to boil, he walks around the space, grabbing sturdy teacups, pouring sunflower seeds into a dish, and filling the pot with roasted corn kernels, which make a surprisingly delicious brew. Last week’s menu sits nearby, with most of the dim sum dishes crossed out, signifying they were sold out. Bags of roasted chicken wing and crayfish-flavored Lays potato chips dangle temptingly from a hook above the cash register.
“Asians have a great snack game,” says Quan.
For the past three years, the couple, who moved to Sonoma County from Chicago for Quan to take a position at SingleThread, have created a series of adventurous (and often very secretive) pop-up dinners: fried chicken, through their late-night Second Staff restaurant takeovers; dim sum, with the high-low concept FNCY + PNTS; and traditional Chinese cuisine “with untraditional values” at The Matriarch.
Co-owner Jenny Phan chats with local Barbra Friedman at Forestville’s new Chinese restaurant Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini, Oct. 17, 2024. Phan runs the front of the house, while her husband and co-owner chef Sean Quan works the kitchen. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Now, just a few months after taking over the perfectly imperfect space that’s been home to a nostalgic lineup of restaurants, including Backyard and Brew, Quan and Phan have embraced an unapologetic and ambitious menu of regional Chinese cuisine based heavily on Sichuan recipes. Creating their own restaurant on their terms is the goal, says Quan. “BaSo needs to be exciting and show that it’s different. There’s power in being the underdog.”
Not in their kitchen
Quan and Phan met in law school in Chicago before they both were absorbed into the world of high-end restaurants — Quan in the kitchen and Phan working front of house (and in the kitchen as needed). At Chicago’s Alinea, considered one of the best restaurants in the world, Quan’s first chef mentor was a tough but wise “Mr. Miyagi” type who guided him through the nearly unendurable quest for perfection.
Later, Quan took a position at a restaurant populated with fine dining “refugees” battered by abusive chefs, then was on the opening staff of a celebrity-fronted Los Angeles restaurant overly obsessed with stars. He ultimately became disillusioned with the situation.
“It’s easy to create a place people want to eat, but hard to create a place where people want to work at,” says Quan.
He cringes at the memory of watching a fellow cook kicked to the ground by an executive chef and stepped over. The horror stories are plentiful, especially at high-end restaurants where the pressure for perfection is crushing.
“It can be such an abusive environment,” he says. “I would never let something like that happen in my kitchen.”
Co-owner chef Sean Quan carefully carries a bowl of soup to a customer at Forestville’s new restaurant Bazaar Sonoma, Oct. 17, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Wonton Noodle Soup with pork and shrimp dumplings from Bazaar Sonoma, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. The dumplings and egg noodles in perfumed broth are a loving tribute to Jenny Phan’s father. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
In Sonoma, Quan and Phan realized they could create the culture they longed for and explore a variety of concepts. Initially, they wanted to fry chicken for their industry friends who worked long, late hours. They cooked at breweries, cafes closed in the evening, wherever they could find a spot. It was all promoted by word of mouth and Instagram posts.
The pop-ups were purposefully tricky to find, says Quan, and the hours were confusing. “We wanted to see who would actually make it. The Second Staff was for locals, not people who were coming as a ‘bucket list’ thing to do. We wanted a restaurant that punishes you for being a tourist and not a local,” he says.
It’s not exactly exclusivity — more natural selection — and Quan insists there’s a logic to it. Growing the business organically and with community input allows BaSo the ability to adapt and grow. “There’s an opportunity to be playful, irreverent and candid.”
Out of the comfort zone
During the pandemic, Quan and Phan spent time in small, family-run Chinese and Korean restaurants in the suburbs of Los Angeles. Mostly tucked into strip malls, they’re aimed at local communities rather than food tourists.
“They’re not meant to be comfortable or user-friendly, and you’re lucky to taste that food — to be part of it for just one day,” he said. “Going out of your comfort zone is what makes it good.”
And that is also the idea of BaSo.
“We don’t want you to plan your whole day around coming here. It’s not a destination restaurant. I mean, if you do, we’re flattered… But we’re not trying to create some narrative-driven experience,” he explains.
And while BaSo’s menu of blazing-hot mapo tofu and handmade dumplings seems “authentic,” especially when there is a dearth of Chinese food in Sonoma County that hasn’t been Americanized, Quan shies away from the description.
“It’s more about being unapologetic. In China, they don’t make concessions to people’s comfort with the food. There are bones and gristle. You pick it out. That makes the food feel real.” Though you won’t find any gristly bits on his menu, Quan says Bazaar Sonoma is not about making things more palatable for a larger audience. “We respect your palate and your adventurousness,” he explains.
Zhong Dumplings with BaSo’s housemade chili crisp and sweet pork dumplings from Bazaar Sonoma, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. Zhong dumplings are a popular street snack in Chengdu. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Take the couple’s Zhong dumplings, a popular street snack in Chengdu, a city in central Sichuan province. This classic Sichuanese water dumpling filled with pork is all about the sauce. “It’s what cooks would call a perfect dish — it has everything, but it’s so simple,” said Quan. For the sauce, he mixes three kinds of soy sauce, brown sugar, garlic, a collection of Chinese spices and Bazaar Sonoma’s chili crunch into an unctuous, gravy-like consistency. Poured over the soft dumplings, it is an intoxicatingly sweet, spicy, savory mess that surprises with each bite.
“Every shop makes it a little different, depending on what they put in their chili crunch, spices, meats, but it’s irresistible … once you get it in your brain, you love it,” he says.
The Toyota rule
For Chinese New Year, celebrated in late January, the couple plans to serve a buffet of regional Chinese dishes, possibly on paper plates. Stressing their staff during the holiday just isn’t the point. Quan and Phan call it the Toyota Rule. If you ignore everything else, it’s easy to be perfect — to make a remarkably fast car like a Lamborghini, for example. But long-term sustainability and comfort are more nuanced — like a Toyota, made to last the duration.
Quan and Phan want to be that Toyota.
“What’s important is that you’re at a pace to keep you engaged but not strained,” says Quan. The couple strive to find that balance for their staff and create a safe, creative environment.
Shanghai Soup Dumplings with pork, scallion and ginger from Bazaar Sonoma, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The couple and their team continue to innovate. Later this winter, Quan and Phan plan to flesh out a new concept called Ugly Dumpling, where diners can bring frozen dumplings home or send them to the kitchen to be steamed onsite. Ultimately, they hope the restaurant will become a “third space” for the community.
It’s a new-old idea gaining more traction among restaurateurs who want their restaurants to serve more than just a meal. Instead, patrons are encouraged to linger, to stop by for tea or a snack, and to be in a place that isn’t home or work, but acts as a cozy alternative to both.
Sipping the last of his tea, Quan turns on color-changing LED chandeliers that bathe the restaurant in blue, red, purple and back to blue. The dining room glows, as an undulating green mural of west county hillsides and vineyards reflects the light.
“Come back for some tea sometime,” says Quan warmly, as dusk settles over the restaurant.
Standout dishes
Black Cod with soy sauce, ginger, greens and a hot infused oil table pour from Bazaar Sonoma, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Hot and Sour Potato Stir-Fry: Though made with the simplest of ingredients — grated potatoes and carrots, garlic, vinegar, salt and a bit of sugar — this dish is complex in a way that’s hard to explain. Potatoes are quickly wok-fried but left with a bit of crunch, then served cold, like a salad.
Silken Egg and Tomato: Stewed tomatoes sit atop a soft egg custard, like a savory flan. No chewing necessary.
Sizzling Black Cod for Two: Quan pours boiling oil over gently steamed fish and greens, adding intensity to the soy-ginger broth beneath — outstanding.
Toothpick Beef: Small bites of beef encrusted with cumin, fennel, sesame seeds, dried Chinese chiles, roasted brown sugar and a dusting of peanuts, served on tiny skewers for a nutty, slightly sweet, spicy punch.
Toothpick Beef dusted with peanuts and intense aromatics served as a finger food or over rice from Bazaar Sonoma, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Mapo Tofu: If spicy is your thing, this roiling pot of silken tofu with broad beans, eggplant and chili is a thrill. Pair with jasmine rice to cool down the heat.
Old Beijing Noodles: Starchy noodles are topped with pork and sweet bean “Bolognese” sauce for an uncomplicated street food dish that bursts with flavor.
Wonton Noodle Soup: Light pork and shrimp dumplings and egg noodles in perfumed broth are a loving tribute to Jenny Phan’s father.
Read dining editor Heather Irwin’s first review of Bazaar Sonoma here.
Winery dogs can enjoy a status akin to rock stars in Sonoma County, gracing the cover of books, amassing love on social media, and in some cases, even boasting their own wine labels.
But the recent arrival of Flambeaux Wine’s new puppy Mella (short for Gemella, the Italian word for twin) is garnering a bit more than the typical oohs and aahs. A hard-to-find Italian Maremma breed, theadorable, wiggly 8-week-old furball is inducing smiles and countless questions everywhere she goes.
Mella is believed to be the world’s first cloned winery dog – an identical twin of Flambeaux’s winery dog Stella – only born nine years later. It’s a tough concept for many to wrap their heads around.
Flambeaux Winery owner Art Murray and winery dog Stella. (Elan Villamor)At just shy of 8-weeks-old, Mella arrived in California on Jan. 14, 2025, via a flight to Charles M. Schulz – Sonoma County Airport. (Flambeaux Winery)
“I think of Stella as a unicorn dog. She’s just perfect,” said Flambeaux owner Art Murray. “She’s my whole world. Everybody laughs because it’s like, I baby that dog more than anybody.”
When Murray was unable to contact the breeder from whom he purchased Stella, a rare breed, a friend joked he should think about cloning Stella. The idea took root and he started researching the possibility.
“I’ve always been an outside-the-box person. It didn’t seem that strange to me,” said Murray. “But what I was worried about was the response that I would get from other people who don’t maybe have that same attitude, you know, like, ‘that’s weird’ or ‘that’s silly.’ ‘You should get a rescue dog.’ Of course, there’s a need for that.”
Texas-based ViaGen Pets & Equine has been cloning household pets for a bit more than a decade. But it’s not without controversy. Though it may seem like relatively new technology, it’s been nearly 30 years since the story of Dolly the sheep caught the world’s attention.
Today, cloning is not limited to dogs and cats. The application is also being used as a tool to help endangered species by increasing genetic diversity and boosting diminished populations. Working with the San Diego Zoo Wildlife Alliance since 2020, ViaGen has cloned two endangered Przewalski’s horses using cellular material cryopreserved more than 40 years ago.
While cloning a beloved pet might be appealing to some, it is prohibitively expensive for most animal owners. ViaGen charges $50,000 to produce a genetic twin of a dog or cat.
The company wouldn’t provide a specific number, but according to ViaGen business manager Lauren Aston, it has “cloned a few hundred dogs and cats” since 2014. For pet owners debating the possibility of cloning, the company will store and preserve a pets’ cells for $1,600, plus a $150 yearly fee.
“We have seen, since COVID, a huge surge in people wanting our services,” said Aston. “I cannot imagine my life without this piece of my soul. And we hear that consistently. It’s like a soul animal. It’s my soul pet. And those are the folks that have the tendency to say, this is for me.”
Flambeaux Winery dog Stella is a hard-to-find Italian Maremma breed. (Flambeaux Winery)Flambeaux Winery’s new cloned puppy Mella at 8 weeks old. (Flambeaux Winery)
Dr. Margaret Basurto of Healdsburg Veterinary Hospital has cared for Stella since she was a puppy. When Murray decided to move forward with the cloning process, Basurto performed the required tissue biopsy.
“She’s such a good family dog. There’s just a lot of love surrounding this animal,” said Basurto. “One of the big things that my owners, each and every one of my owners, would tell you is that they just want more time with their pets.”
Stella’s tissue sample was transported to Texas, where ViaGen created an embryo, and in November 2024, implanted it into a surrogate dog. (According to ViaGen, surrogates are used once and adopted after giving birth.)
On Jan. 14, just shy of 8-weeks-old, Mella arrived in California via a flight to Charles M. Schulz – Sonoma County Airport. For Murray, it was love at first sight.
And though Stella and Mella are genetically identical, they are still two different dogs.
“I can already see some personality differences just having had both of them as puppies,” said Murray. “Mella plays with toys, listens to and responds to music, and watches TV. These are things that Stella has never done, not once.”
While a majority of pet owners make the choice to clone their animal after it has died, Murray opted not to wait. That way, Stella has some years to show her twin the ropes, providing time for everyone to bond.
“The way we live now, dogs are absolutely a part of the family. And you just get this slice of time with them and it just feels cruel,” Murray said. “At some point, [Stella’s] going to go, and I just can’t even imagine what it would be like to not have her. So, yeah, it may not be her, but I’ll have another to kind of ease that very difficult time.”
Chef Jorge Flores with his Peach Panzanella with Costeaux Bakery bread at the Healdsburg bakery, Friday, June 30, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
For chef Jorge Flores, cooking isn’t always about food. Sometimes it’s about hope.
Having worked his way from juvenile hall to executive chef at Costeaux French Bakery in Healdsburg, he knows firsthand that restaurant kitchens can be a pathway from trouble to triumph.
Now, the 38-year-old chef is sharing that knowledge with others.
Later this month, Flores will reprise his role as a cooking mentor to a small cohort of 14- to 25-year-olds at Sonoma County Juvenile Hall in Santa Rosa.
Flores previously ran a pilot of the cooking program from August to October together with Corrin Messing, a group facilitator and prevention specialist at Verity. (The Santa Rosa-based nonprofit offers a variety of aid services, including life skills programs for juvenile hall.)
The 10-week cooking class teaches basic culinary skills, from chopping vegetables to making pizza. For two hours a week, attendees become culinary students. They share a meal after class and are encouraged to talk about their challenges.
Chef Jorge Flores tosses his Peach Panzanella Salad made with Costeaux Bakery bread at the Healdsburg bakery, Friday, June 30, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Peach Panzanella Salad is made with Costeaux Bakery bread from chef Jorge Flores. Photo taken Friday, June 30, 2023, at the Healdsburg bakery. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
“Cooking a meal, breaking bread with them gives them an opportunity to share. That’s important for healing,” said Flores.
But the chef wants to leave his students with more than just a few recipes.
“I want to share knowledge they can use when they come out. I give them the right tools to keep themselves fed and fueled, and maybe a few can take that forward,” Flores said.
A personal journey
Flores went through a difficult time as a teen after arriving in Healdsburg at 14, knowing little English and sometimes running with a tough crowd.
“A good friend of mine now is the chief of police (Matt Jenkins), but back then he was the campus cop. I used to get arrested by him all the time,” he told The Press Democrat in 2023.
After graduating from high school in 2005, Flores decided to change the course of his life and took a job as a dishwasher at the now-closed French Garden in Sebastopol.
“It was just a job,” he said. “It was easy, and I was down for high stress.”
Flores didn’t have aspirations to become a chef then but, from the dish pit, he was able to observe and learn every role in the kitchen.
“At first, I would look inside the walk-in and just be lost. I had no clue what parsley was. I paid attention and asked questions,” he said.
Chef Jorge Flores at Costeaux French Bakery preparing classic French bistro menu items for the patio at their cafe in Healdsburg on Wednesday, July 31, 2024. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)
Flores then worked at several restaurants before landing at Healdsburg’s Campo Fina, one of chef Ari Rosen’s groundbreaking Italian restaurants. Rosen became a mentor and the staff became family.
“We all went through a lot of tough days, moments, years — talk about sweat, blood and tears,” he said. “The one goal was just to go in and do our job, do it right and keep moving.”
After Campo Fina shuttered in 2022, Flores remained close with Rosen. The two also worked with Inside Circle, a program that facilitates healing, growth and trust through participant-led circles inside prisons and youth detention facilities.
Deeply moved by that experience, Flores thought a mentor-led cooking program could be more than just a life skill for the detainees. After talking to Messing, he was convinced.
“Jorge is such a fit and connects with the kids right away. He knows what they’ve been through,” Messing said. “He’s open and accepting but also has this knowledge they’re super interested in.”
Changing a trajectory
The cooking program at juvenile hall has been unexpectedly popular, according to Flores, despite limited resources and a lack of some basic cooking equipment — for example, the students are required to use plastic knives.
Chef Jorge Flores, left, executive chef at Costeaux French Bakery, with sous chef Isabella Cafferata at the bakery in Healdsburg. Photographed on Wednesday, July 31, 2024. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)
“Most of the time, these kids are just being told what to do, or you’re a screwup,” he said. “They’re not given the right tools. They’ve been neglected their whole life.”
When Flores and Messing asked the cooking class attendees at juvenile hall what could have changed their trajectory, the same comments came up repeatedly: “Keep us busy, give us opportunities to play sports and learn a trade.”
Sonoma County Juvenile Hall offers more than 20 educational programs for residents, according to its website. Flores hopes cooking skills will be useful once the youth leave the facility.
“We need to get (those in juvenile hall) back into the community with something to lean on,” he said. “Without the right tools and the right people, you fall into the same routine, go back to the same neighborhoods with the same homies. You’re not given an opportunity to succeed.”
Flores also hopes to offer his students apprentice programs in the future.
“I want to show them that there are people willing to help out if you are on the right path. My big wish is to give more opportunities,” he said.
Kally, a verjus-based nonalcoholic beverage company. (Courtesy Kally)
Made with organic Chardonnay grapes sourced from Eco Terreno Vineyards in Alexander Valley and Lolonis Vineyard in Redwood Valley, Kally is a nonalcoholic wine alternative that blends fruit and botanicals with verjus. Launched in 2022 by Katie and Scott Mitic, the label has found a niche in the growing market for sophisticated, nonalcoholic beverages.
Verjus, the foundation ingredient of the Kally blends, is a tart juice made from young wine grapes and often used in sauces and salad dressings — foods that beg for a burst of brightness.
Piquant without being overly sour, verjus is popular in many wine regions, but remains a bit under the radar as a beverage ingredient.
The Mitics were familiar with verjus for cooking but had never experimented with it in drinks before launching Kally. A bartender friend encouraged them to play around with verjus in nonalcoholic concoctions, calling it a bartender’s best friend.
Katie and Scott Mitic, founders of Kally, a verjus-based, nonalcoholic beverage. (Courtesy Kally)
“It has the same acids and pH as wine with less sweetness, so it’s delicious with a little fruit juice, herbs and sparkling water. It’s kind of magic in a bottle,” says Scott.
Soon, friends and even local chefs began asking for the Mitics’ homemade beverages, and the couple realized they were on to something. “We were like, oh my gosh, this is a business,” says Katie.
The Mitics launched into development, but discovered there are very few commercial verjus suppliers in the U.S. The couple learned to make verjus themselves with grapes they sourced locally and got technical help from Jim Neal of Fusion Verjus in Napa Valley.
The fruit used to make verjus is picked at an earlier stage than fruit used to make wine. The grapes retain a high level of acid, which allows the winemaker to layer other flavors on top. “That allows us to have a spectrum of aromas and flavors that drive the complexity, sophistication and great taste,” explains Scott.
Kally, a verjus-based nonalcoholic beverage company. (Courtesy Kally)
With demand growing, the Mitics reached out to Kyle and Katina Connaughton of Healdsburg’s SingleThread, which has a 10-course food and nonalcoholic beverage pairing on the menu. The Connaughtons know how challenging it can be to create delicious, complex drinks that don’t rely heavily on sweetness.
“We were so impressed with how Kally used verjus to create delicate tannin structures, then conveyed the natural flavors of the ingredients without being overly sweet or syrupy,” says SingleThread’s Kyle Connaughton. The Connaughtons and the Mitics recently collaborated on two beverages using ingredients from the SingleThread farm to create signature flavors.
Kally x SingleThread, a nonalcoholic verjus-based beverage. (Courtesy Kally)
Kally’s drinks are now served at over a dozen Michelin-starred restaurants across the country, including SingleThread. And while the Mitics didn’t set out to conquer the nonalcoholic beverage market, their timing couldn’t have been better, as the no-alcohol beverage category is on tap to grow significantly in the next few years. “As an entrepreneur, it’s so exciting when you don’t have to sell people on the market opportunity,” says Katie.
“In the beginning, we were a little afraid to call Kally ‘a wine alternative’ because we didn’t want to be measured next to (alcoholic) wine,” she says.
“But the customer response has been overwhelmingly positive. They know it’s different, but it’s really, really good.”
Kally, a nonalcoholic verjus-based beverage. (Courtesy Kally)
Tasting Notes
Kally’s Early Chardonnay ($39) combines tart verjus with pear juice, chamomile, Meyer lemon, vanilla and thyme to create sunshine on the palate. Bright citrus notes tame the light sweetness, while the chamomile adds a hint of herbaceousness.
The Golden Sparkler ($39)is a sparkling version of the Chardonnay, with bubbles that mimic the mouthfeel and buoyancy of Champagne.
Early Cabernet ($39)is a juicy blend of cherry juice, smoky Lapsang Souchong tea, black pepper and thyme, with vanilla adding a familiar note that recalls wine aged in oak.
The Collaboration Duo ($83) is a limited-edition release of a pair of spritzy, verjus-based beverages created with Kyle and Katina Connaughton of Healdsburg’s SingleThread. Pear Verbena is accented by the earthy citrus of lemon verbena and ginger, while Plum Shiso captures the minty basil qualities of shiso with plum juice and yuzu.
Kally is available at Bottle Barn in Santa Rosa, Wilibees Wine & Spirits in Santa Rosa and Petaluma, and Little Saint in Healdsburg. drinkkally.com
Pecan Pie from Sweet T’s in Windsor. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Is it weird that my favorite pie is from a fish and chips shop? Perhaps. But Betty’s Lemon Cloud Pie is about as good as a pie can be, with a flakey crust, tart lemon filling and a crown of real whipped cream. Best of all, the coaster-sized pie is ostensibly just for one or, at least, that’s what I tell myself as I hover over it protectively and poke a sharp fork at anyone trying to steal a nibble. Get your own!
To celebrate National Pie Day, Jan. 23, here are some more terrific spots to grab a pie in Sonoma County.
Betty’s Fish & Chips: Besides the Lemon Cloud, they also sell fruit pies made on site. 4046 Sonoma Highway, Santa Rosa, 707-539-0899, bettysfishandchips.com
The famous Lemon Cloud Pie and Apple Pie from Betty’s Bakery and Fish and Chips in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)
Criminal Baking Co.: This bakery and cafe cooks up ultra-creative pies, offering both sweet (roasted apple, triple berry) and savory (Bacon Cheeseburger! Meatloaf, and Potato!) whole pies and hand pies. Gluten-free crusts are available. 808 Donahue St., Santa Rosa, 707-888-3546, criminalbakingcompany.com
Noble Folk Ice Cream and Pie Bar: Just like your birthday, you can get both ice cream and pie! In Santa Rosa (539 Fourth St., 707-978-3392) and Healdsburg (116 Matheson St., 707-395-4426).thenoblefolk.com
Peanut Butter Pie at Noble Folk Ice Cream and Pie Bar in Santa Rosa. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Village Bakery: Their berry pie has always been a huge favorite. 3851 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, 707-829-8101, villagebakerywinecountry.com
BurtoNZ Bakery: Tasty meat pies, a rare find in Sonoma County, are available from this New Zealand-inspired bakery in Windsor. 9076 Brooks Road S., Windsor, 707-687-5455, burtonzbakery.com
Sweet T’s: Famous Southern pecan pie served as it should be — with a crown of vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of caramel. 9098 Brooks Road South, Windsor, 707-687-5185, sweettssouthern.com
Petaluma Pie Company: Sweet and savory pies include Jamaican beef, chicken empanada and pulled pork, but we’re especially fond of the sweet Elvis Pie (peanut butter cream, bananas, chocolate cream, chopped peanuts and whipped cream), and Persian lime pie. 125 Petaluma Blvd. N. Petaluma, 707-766-6743, petalumapiecompany.com
Lemon pie at Hazel Restaurant in Occidental. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Hazel: Every Friday is pie day at this Occidental restaurant. Co-owner Michele Wimborough’s pies are legendary, ranging from peanut butter and blackberry to Dutch apple and lemon meringue. You never know what she’ll be making, which is half the fun of your pie adventure. 3782 Bohemian Highway, Occidental, 707-874-6003, restauranthazel.com
Mom’s Apple Pies: The scent of apples and cinnamon greets you in the parking lot of this classic roadside bakeshop. 4550 Gravenstein Highway N., Sebastopol, 707-823-8330, momsapplepieusa.com
Leah Harris, right, and Nancy Brandt drink wine at the outdoor lounge area at The Harris Gallery in Healdsburg on Thursday, September 16, 2021. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
The Harris Gallery in Healdsburg’s bustling main square has been a cornerstone of the local arts scene since it opened in 2000.
Founded by artists Marc Cabell “M.C.” Harris and his son, who goes by A3L3XZAND3R, the gallery showcases two generations of family artistry on two floors of the meticulously restored, Italianate-style Plaza Arts Building, once the town’s first bank.
There, overlooking the Healdsburg Plaza, visitors can explore carefully arranged, illuminated artworks — complemented by a glass of wine from The Harris Gallery Art & Wine Collection.
The exhibitions include works by M.C. Harris, who paints in a modernist, cubist and abstract expressionist style, and A3L3XZAND3R, whose work spans classic impressionism to abstract minimalism.
An event at The Restaurant at North Block in Yountville announcing the debut of a new tasting menu. The event also featured artwork and wine from the Harris Gallery. The gallery’s pieces still adorn walls throughout the restaurant. (Verena Dohmen Photography)
Jazzy beginnings
Born in New York City, M.C. Harris’ childhood was infused with creativity. His mother was a writer and fashion couturier, while his father, Edward Jurgen Harris, was a jazz impresario and surrealist painter. His godfather was the legendary jazz trumpet virtuoso Dizzy Gillespie.
“Jazz is the original American art form. It celebrates freedom, innovation and individuality,” Edward Jurgen Harris once said, quoted in M.C.’s newly published book, “All That Jazz,” which explores Edward’s paintings and his connections to the Jazz Age.
M.C. spent his formative years in Northern California and attended the California College of the Arts, graduating in printmaking in 1972. His first public exhibition was a two-man show in San Francisco, where his etchings were displayed alongside the lithographs of renowned Dutch artist Maurits Cornelis “M.C.” Escher.
He eventually moved to Guatemala to learn Spanish and take some time off, ultimately leading to his career’s next evolution.
“A cord struck. He fell in love with the people, the objects and the culture at the local markets,” said A3L3XZAND3R of his father.
M.C. Harris, right, and his son, who goes by A3L3XZAND3R, at their Harris Gallery in Healdsburg. (Courtesy Leah Harris)
M.C. had an idea to bring Guatemalan culture and crafts to the American market. He had learned about the retail business through his mother, who owned clothing stores and boutiques throughout the Bay Area.
“He would go to a person’s stand at the markets and buy baskets, satchels, jackets, and different objects and take them to trade shows,” said A3L3XZAND3R. “Macy’s would say, ‘We could sell that.’ He basically became an importer and would take orders live at shows.”
M.C. founded the now-closed Marco Polo Companies, an importing operation that emphasized various industries, from women’s clothing to textile bedding.
While M.C. loved the work, it was a challenging career for someone with a family.
“It was a lot of travel, and there were three boys at home,” recalled A3L3XZAND3R. “It would be a two to a three-week trip to have new items made, and then a lot of travel for trade shows.”
Ultimately, after a 30-year career, M.C. retired.
“I retired from the fashion and textile business and began oil painting,” he said. “My wife Peggy removed me from my studio and installed me, and my work, in the old bank boardroom off the Healdsburg Plaza.”
Immersed in art
Around the same time, A3L3XZAND3R was coming into his own as an artist. Like his father, he was immersed in art from an early age.
“I grew up around it and was surrounded by it, looking at my grandfather’s work — hundreds of art books. I was obsessed with it and loved it,” said A3L3XZAND3R. “I always knew it was what I wanted to do.”
By the time his father opened the Healdsburg gallery, A3L3XZAND3R was studying at the Florence Academy of Art.
“It was essentially a boot camp for learning how to draw and paint extremely well,” he said. His time in Italy allowed him to draw imaginative prompts, such as, “An umbrella, upside down in the wind blowing 200 miles an hour.”
He also attended a summer program at the Russian Academy of Art, to which only five international students were invited. While abroad, he would send his artwork home. During the summers, he worked at his father’s gallery.
Leah Harris, right, and Nancy Brandt drink wine at the outdoor lounge area at The Harris Gallery in Healdsburg on Thursday, Sept. 16, 2021. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Once he moved back home in 2006, A3L3XZAND3R became a full-time partner in the gallery, and the business has grown every year since.
“The idea is he shows his work, I show my work, and the general philosophy is where we live and how we express ourselves,” said A3L3XZAND3R.
Blending art with wine
Fifteen years ago, A3L3XZAND3R met his wife, Leah Harris, an avid wine collector. She made her wine collection available for friends and family at the Harris Gallery.
Once a wine tasting room permit became available in downtown Healdsburg, A3L3XZAND3R filed quickly.
Adding the wine program to the gallery led to a transformation.
“The gallery became a more comfortable, approachable space,“ said Leah. ”People started understanding the connection between art, wine and the community.“
The Harris family decided to add their own label to the collection and turned to their close friend Wells Guthrie, who won acclaim at Copain Wines. He created a Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley.
“It became a natural evolution of our program to add our wine, but it was important to me that our wine artist (winemaker) was a friend, an extension of us,” said Leah.
The Harris Gallery Art & Wine Collection features the art of M.C. Harris and A3L3XZAND3R Harris on the labels. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
And the wine inside the bottle had to match the caliber of the art that decorated the bottle’s exterior.
“I didn’t want it just to be a pretty bottle,” said Leah. “We wanted it to be an extension of our story.”
The gallery’s wine collection expanded further after Leah reached out to famed winemaker Leo Hansen, who was familiar with the Harris Gallery. The two struck a deal to trade a painting for a palette of Chenin Blanc made specifically for the Healdsburg gallery.
Today, Hansen makes a Chenin Blanc and a rosé for the Harris Gallery, which also has added a sparkling wine to its portfolio.
In addition to the gallery, bottles from the The Harris Gallery Art & Wine Collection are available at local establishments such as The Madrona and Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg, Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria in Geyserville, and Nick’s Cove in Marshall.
“We want genuine partnerships and authenticity,” said A3L3XZAND3R.
The Healdsburg Plaza. (Mariah Harkey / Sonoma County Tourism)
Geography site WorldAtlas recently released a list of eight timeless towns in California — quiet locations off the beaten path, steeped in rich Golden State history. From Los Angeles county to the North Coast, two local destinations made the list for their long-lasting significance to the state: Sonoma and Healdsburg.
“These eight California towns provide a unique glimpse into a simpler, historic lifestyle, transcending the usual tourist trails with their rich legacies and picturesque charm,” WorldAtlas stated.
Beyond the tourist hotspots and heavily publicized establishments, here’s where to go in Sonoma and Healdsburg to experience the towns’ timelessness.
Sonoma
Lachryma Montis, better known as General Vallejo’s Home, is part of Sonoma State Historic Park. (Julie Vader/special to the Index-Tribune)An art exhibit at the Sonoma Valley Museum of Art in Sonoma. Photo taken on Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
As the birthplace of the state’s Bear Flag, Sonoma honors its place in California history with a monument on the town plaza commemorating the 1846 Bear Flag Revolt that took place in the heart of the county.
Other vestiges of times past can also be found in the town, like the old Sonoma Barracks, the Mission San Francisco Solano and Gen. Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo’s abode. Tourists and residents alike can learn more local history via a free Sonoma Plaza History Tour in and around Sonoma State Historic Park. The park comprises several historical sites within walking distance of the plaza.
For a taste of modern culture, WorldAtlas noted the Sonoma Valley Museum of Art (551 Broadway), where you’ll find rotating exhibits featuring acclaimed Bay Area artists. The Sebastiani Theatre, opened in 1934, provides an eclectic mix of comedy acts, indie movies, local concert performances and more.
Pastis-scented steamed mussels and fries at The Girl & the Fig in Sonoma. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)Dos’ Bar, a communal wine tasting space, in Sonoma. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Stay near the plaza to find some of the best places to eat. For brunch, try a farm-fresh egg sandwich or avocado toast with mimosas while dining on the garden patio of Sunflower Caffe. The Girl & The Fig offers innovative French fare like wild flounder meunière and steak au poivre. If you want to extend your local history tour, head over to the Swiss Hotel — which has been around since the late 1800s — for wood-fired pizza, chicken parmesan and housemade butternut squash ravioli.
The town of Healdsburg is anchored by its historic Plaza, established in 1857. WorldAtlas noted Healdsburg’s prominence as an early winegrowing region, with early settlers “shaping a robust viticultural tradition.”
Costeaux French Bakery serves classic French bistro menu items for the patio seating area at their cafe in Healdsburg. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)
People can learn more about the town’s history at the Healdsburg Museum & Historical Society, which features rotating exhibits and houses collections of historic tools, furnishings, paintings and Indigenous artifacts. For a more modern speed, check out the Healdsburg Center for the Arts, where various local artists exhibit their work.
Bedroom. (Open Homes Photography / Sotheby’s International Realty)
A Forestville home — perched in the hills on three-fourths of a forested acre — was recently featured in a New York Times real estate story on $1.1 million homes in California. The two-bedroom, two-bathroom renovated home, now under contract, was listed for $995,000.
The circa-1949 home’s remodeled interior includes wide-plank hardwood floors, a kitchen backsplash with handmade Heath Ceramics tiles and a fire feature in the great room.
Great room. (Open Homes Photography / Sotheby’s International Realty)Bedroom. (Open Homes Photography / Sotheby’s International Realty)
The mainly white interior features lots of high contrast accents via select black walls, a blue room and a gray wallpapered room. But lots of natural light and end-to-end forest views steal the design show.
The yard includes decks and a courtyard with a fire pit. Lots of seating areas give several vantage points from which to bathe in the views.
The Russian River dwelling is the second local real estate listing recently featured in The New York Times. In December of 2024, the Times spotlighted a Santa Rosa home in the hills of Montecito Heights.
