Stony Hill in St. Helena combines classic wines and midcentury glamour. (Courtesy of Stony Hill)
Credited with planting Napa Valley’s first Chardonnay vines in 1948 and opening one of the valley’s first post-Prohibition wineries in 1951, Stony Hill has spent more than seven decades championing lean white wines. Now, nearly four years into new ownership, the winery is moving into the modern age with a revamped tasting room and a refined interpretation of its legendary house style.
When Fred and Eleanor McCrea bought an old goat ranch on Spring Mountain in 1943, the couple envisioned a summer home at the site. But Fred soon came to believe that the high-elevation property, with its volcanic mountain soils and limestone sublayer, would be ideal for producing Burgundian-style Chardonnay and racy Riesling. He was right.
Stony Hill released its first wine in 1954 and the winery went on to become a cult favorite for its mineral-driven whites. Long Meadow Ranch picked up a majority stake in the winery in 2018, and two years later, Heitz Cellar owner Gaylon Lawrence Jr. and CEO Carlton McCoy Jr. bought Stony Hill. Along with the McCrea family’s historic Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Riesling plantings, the estate’s certified-organic vineyards now include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.
The revamped Stony Hill in St. Helena includes a stylish living room lounge where vinyl records spin, plus a cozy library and a patio that showcases sweeping mountain views. (Courtesy of Stony Hill)Mountaintop views and a stylishly revamped tasting room await at Stony Hill in St. Helena. (Courtesy of Stony Hill)
The vibe
Stony Hill sits in a remote location between St. Helena and Calistoga, within Bothe-Napa Valley State Park. As you wind your way up a steep one-lane road, you may find yourself wondering if you’ve somehow taken a wrong turn. When you get to the top of the hill, you’ll spot the midcentury home that serves as the winery tasting room.
Don’t be fooled by the structure’s understated appearance; in 2022-23, the McCrea family’s original 1951 home received a luxurious makeover. The revamped space includes a stylish living room lounge where vinyl records spin — Curtis Mayfield’s “Superfly” was playing the day I visited — plus a cozy library and a patio that showcases sweeping mountain views. Though the designers replaced the family’s “well-loved” furniture, all of the pieces are vintage and many of Fred’s books remain.
Though St. Helena’s Stony Hill made its reputation as a white wine house, it is increasingly leaning into reds. (Courtesy of Stony Hill)
On the palate
Stony Hill’s wine style remains largely unchanged after 70 years, though it appears to be moving in a slightly weightier direction. The 2019 Estate Chardonnay ($137), with its saline and mineral notes, has a silky texture and hints of pastry crust richness. The 2022 L’Escalier ($150), an unconventional blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay, is aromatic and tangy with a zing of acidity.
Though Stony Hill made its reputation as a white wine house, it is increasingly leaning into reds. The 2021 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($250) is structured and delicate, with aromas and flavors of ripe black cherries.
Yes, the wines are pricey, but the cost of a visit is pretty much in line with other high-end Napa properties. Tastings start at $85 for the Taste of Stony Hill sampler (if you’re a Napa local, you can book it for just 50 bucks). Higher up on the bougie scale are the Residence Experience ($150), which includes cheese pairings and library wines, and the Terroir Experience ($350) — a deluxe offering that features a vineyard tour in a Lexus SUV.
Mountaintop views and a stylishly revamped tasting room await at Stony Hill in St. Helena. (Courtesy of Stony Hill)
Beyond the bottle
Since you’re already surrounded by Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, why not take a scenic hike? Covering nearly 2,000 acres, the park includes 10 miles of trails amid a fragrant forest of redwood, oak and fir trees. Try the 3-mile Redwood Trail, a favorite for its shady canopy and mixed evergreen forest, then head to downtown Calistoga for a browse and a bite.
Stony Hill, 3331 St. Helena Highway North, St. Helena. Tastings by appointment only. stonyhillvineyard.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.
Multiple dwellings exist on the property. (Daniel Wilson)
So you want to make wine? There’s an opportunity to purchase a vineyard, winery and estate on the Benessere Vineyards property in St. Helena. The land previously housed the Bronco Wine Company that produced wines under the Charles Shaw label, which became a Trader Joe’s fan-favorite known as “Two-Buck Chuck.”
Situated at the end of a countryside lane, the land enjoys a convenient-but-removed proximity to St. Helena’s well-traveled Highway 29. The asking price is $35 million.
Multiple dwellings on the property. (Ned Bonzi)Wine tasting patio. (Daniel Wilson)
Forty-three acres of vineyards, plus winemaking and wine-tasting facilities, are available to continue the business. The property has a “pre-WDO” winery permit, meaning it operates under laws prior to the Winery Definition Ordinance restrictions implemented in Napa County in 1990.
Multiple dwellings make up the eight-bedroom, seven-bathroom estate with four fireplaces and several decks. Shrouded in mature landscaping, the structures have a transitional style and connect via a long covered porch with Tuscan columns.
Inquiries should be directed to listing agents Kevin McDonald, 707-391-3382, and Jamie Spratling, 707-339-6468, of Sotheby’s International Realty – St. Helena Brokerage, sothebysrealty.com
On 400 acres of rolling hills in Sonoma, among gnarled ancient oaks, is a modern, five-bedroom family retreat recently built by interior design firm Studio Collins Weir and architecture firm Turnbull Griffin Haesloop. The architects continue the legacy of the late William Turnbull Jr., who was part of the trailblazing team that designed the iconic Sea Ranch community.
In the decade prior to the new Sonoma build, the homeowners lived part time on the land in the property’s existing yurt. Unplugged from their tech industry careers, they camped, hiked and learned the lay of the land. When ready to build, they chose Studio Collins Weir and Turnbull Griffin Haesloop for their commitment to design homes that sit harmoniously on the natural landscape.
The architects originally envisioned the dwelling to be a wood-clad structure, but wildfires in the area inspired them to choose a Corten steel exterior.
Kitchen and dining area. (Adam Rouse)Children’s room. (Adam Rouse)
The home enjoys 360-degree views and surrounds a covered terrace with a live fire kitchen. This connects to the interior open-plan kitchen and living room area with a sunken couch. The other side of the covered terrace leads to the pool and fire pit at the hillside’s edge.
The interior palette eschews the sameness and colorlessness seen in many modern homes. In one room there’s indigo and green. In another there’s plum and gold. Another room has fern green, mustard and orange. The unique palettes are pulled into each en-suite bathroom via handmade tiles sourced from Sonoma Tilemakers, Heath and Cle Tile.
Furniture is handmade and includes pieces by California artists Jonathan Cross and Dan John Anderson. A playfully large Davide Groppi lamp mimics the moon, revered in this Valley of the Moon region.
Creating another element of connection in this project, the homeowner lent his own craftsmanship to the kids’ room bunk beds. Cedar-plank beds and ladder — a Studio Collins Weir design — is a sleekly elegant addition.
French Toast with strawberries from the William Tell House in Tomales. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
While the name suggests a French origin, various iterations of French toast have been created around the world for centuries. The earliest known reference to the dish is in a collection of recipes from the Roman Empire called the Apicius, thought to have been compiled in the first century. The simple recipe, described in the Apicius as “aliter dulcia” (“another sweet dish”), involved breaking white bread into large pieces, soaking the bread in a mixture of milk and beaten eggs, frying it in oil and then covering the golden creation with honey.
Similar recipes that sought to make use of stale bread appeared in 14th century Germany as “Arme Ritter” (“poor knight”) and, around the same time, in an influential French cookbook, Le Viandier, as “tostées dorées,” or “golden toasts.” Today, the French call the dish “pain perdu” (“lost bread”), the Germans still call it “Arme Ritter” (several Nordic countries also call it “poor knights” in their languages), the Spanish call it “torrija” and the Portuguese call it “rabanadas.”
So how exactly did French toast get the name “French Toast” in the U.S.? Is there anything Parisian about the toast? Well, nobody knows for sure. There are several origin stories and legends — according to one of them, a chef named Joseph French came up with his own version of the dish in Albany, NY, in 1724. Failing to use an apostrophe, he called his culinary invention “French toast,” rather than “French’s toast.”
A more likely scenario, however, is that the name French toast was first used in England in the 17th century (perhaps the British picked up the recipe on a trip across the channel) and then crossed the Atlantic Ocean to America with the early settlers.
Whatever the name and no matter the origin of the dish we like to call French toast, making good use of stale bread continues to produce delicious results: a sweet, eggy, golden dish fit for a fancy brunch or last-minute breakfast for the kids.
If you’re craving this breakfast of champions or would like to to celebrate National French Toast Day (Nov. 28) in style, we’ve compiled a list of some of our favorite spots for digging into this dish.
Brunch items from Grossman’s Noshery include GB Cinnamon Babka French Toast with two eggs, chicken apple sausage and orange ginger butter, front left, on Tuesday, July 2, 2024. Other plates are: Lox & Latke Benedict, Terri’s Favorite containing griddled house pastrami, and a Lox Plate. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
Grossman’s Noshery & Bar, Santa Rosa, GB Cinnamon Babka French Toast ($18)
Grossman’s decadent cinnamon babka served with two eggs, chicken apple sausage and orange ginger butter. 308 1/2 Wilson St., Santa Rosa, 707-595-7707, grossmanssr.com
Crepevine, Santa Rosa, French Toast La Suisse ($13)
Housemade French white bread dipped in a yogurt-vanilla egg batter and served with cinnamon and powdered sugar. Also great: French Toast Parisienne ($13): Cinnamon raisin bread dipped in a yogurt-vanilla egg batter served with cinnamon and powdered sugar. 740 Farmers Lane, Santa Rosa, crepevine.com
Dierk’s Parkside Cafe, Santa Rosa, French Bread French Toast ($12.50)
Four slices of baguette dipped in an egg and cinnamon batter. 404 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-573-5955, dierksparkside.com
Jeffrey’s Hillside Cafe, Santa Rosa, French Toast Combo ($16.50)
Texas toast topped with powdered sugar and strawberries and served with two eggs and choice of bacon, sausage or ham. 2901 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-6317, jeffreyshillsidecafe.com
French toast with Sal Do Chenin Blanc from J & M’s Midtown Café on Oct. 23, 2023, in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
J&M’s Midtown Café, Santa Rosa, Cinnamon Swirl French Toast ($18)
Two pieces of cinnamon raisin bread served with two eggs and a choice of meat. Also: ciabatta French toast ($14). 1422 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-2233, jm-midtowncafe.com
Piner Cafe, Santa Rosa, French Toast Sandwich ($14.45)
Slices of French toast accompanied with an egg and two strips of bacon, four sausage links or half slice of ham. Also great: Walnut Cinnamon French Toast and Raisin Bread French Toast ($14.95). 975 Piner Road, Santa Rosa, 707-575-0165, pinercafe.com
Omelette Express, Santa Rosa and Windsor, French Toast ($13.25)
Griddled French toast topped with cinnamon. 112 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-525-1690; 150 Windsor River Road., Windsor 707-838-6920, omeletteexpress.com
Three pieces topped with brandy cream sauce, powdered sugar and fresh blueberries. 572 E. Cotati Ave., Cotati, 707-242-3075,thetwinsrestaurant.com
Cafe Bellini, Petaluma, Creme Brûlée French Toast ($16)
Thick-sliced French bread in a creme brûlée batter with mascarpone cheese, powdered sugar, berries and maple syrup. 100 S. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-774-6160,thecafebellini.com
Pub Republic, Petaluma, Maple Fried Chicken & French Toast ($18)
Egg-battered Texas toast, buttermilk-fried chicken breast, crispy bacon and maple syrup. Take note that the French toast is a weekend brunch treat served on Saturdays and Sundays only. 3120 Lakeville Highway, Petaluma, 707-782-9090, pubrepublicusa.com
Sax’s Joint, Petaluma, TT’s Famous French Toast ($14)
Sourdough French bread dipped in egg batter and grilled in cinnamon and sugar, then topped with marionberry cream cheese. Also great: French Toast ($14): Extra thick slices of locally made cinnamon challah bread; and Little P (aka Patricia’s Favorite; $16): Battered sourdough bread with two eggs and bacon or sausage. The portions are huge, so bring an appetite. 317 Petaluma Blvd. S., Petaluma, 707-559-3021, saxsjoint.com
Skillets Cafe, Windsor, French Toast ($12)
Thick slices topped with powdered sugar and served with melted butter and maple syrup. 8776 Lakewood Drive, Windsor, 707-657-7599,facebook.com/skilletscafewindsor
Costeaux French Bakery & Cafe, Healdsburg, Pain Perdu ($17)
Thick slices of housemade cinnamon walnut bread topped with seasonal fruit, whipped mascarpone and pure Vermont maple syrup. 417 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-1913,costeaux.com
Tiramisu French Toast with whipped mascarpone, raspberry, coffee ice cream and cocoa nibs on Goguette brioche from the Acorn Cafe, Thursday, Oct. 3, 2024 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Acorn Cafe, Healdsburg, Tiramisu French Toast ($16)
The new brunch favorite Acorn Cafe has a Goguette brioche topped with raspberries, cocoa nibs, dollops of whipped mascarpone and coffee ice cream. 124 Matheson St., Healdsburg, acornhealdsburg.com
The Parish Cafe, Healdsburg, Bananas Foster Pain Perdu ($16)
French-style pain perdu with caramelized bananas, topped with pecans and maple bourbon sauce. 60 Mill St., Healdsburg, 707-431-8474, theparishcafe.com
Basque Boulangerie Cafe, Sonoma, French Toast ($11.50)
Served with strawberry compote, whipped cream and toasted almonds. 460 First St. E., Sonoma, 707-935-7687, basqueboulangerie.com
Sonoma Eats, Sonoma, Tres Leches French Toast ($15)
According to our dining editor, the new breakfast menu at this favored Mexican restaurant is mouthwatering and has a “fantastic” Tres Leches French Toast. The breakfast item consists of croissants dipped in a tres leches mix, griddled and topped with cream and strawberries. 18133 Sonoma Hwy, Sonoma, 707-343-1141, sonoma-eats.com
French toast with berry compote, berries and whipped cream is one of the many breakfast items available at Verano Cafe in Sonoma. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
Verano Cafe, Sonoma, French Toast ($13)
Topped with strawberries and whipped cream and served with fresh fruit. 18976 Sonoma Hwy, Sonoma,707-931-6837, veranocafesonoma.com
Creekside Cafe, Sonoma, French Toast ($12.95)
Three pieces of crispy sourdough coated in cornflakes. Add seasonal fruit and maple syrup. 239 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma, 707-996-8062
Willow Wood Market Cafe, Graton, Challah French Toast ($18.50)
Challah bread in a Häagen-Dazs vanilla ice cream batter, topped with toasted pecans, pure maple syrup, fresh fruit garnish and powdered sugar. 9020 Graton Road, Graton, 707-823-0233, willowwoodgraton.com
Strawberries & Cream French Toast with ciabatta bread, maple butter, strawberry lemon compote and sweet cream from the The Wild Poppy along the Bodega Hwy west of Sebastopol Friday, May 3, 2024. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The Wild Poppy Cafe, Sebastopol, Berries & Cream French Toast ($16)
Ciabatta bread with maple butter, sweet cream and seasonal berry lemon compote. 9890 Bodega Highway, Sebastopol, 707-503-6332, thewildpoppycafe.com
Sebastopol Sunshine Cafe, Sebastopol, Texas Style Thick-Cut French Toast ($10.99)
Topped with whipped cream and comes with choice of bananas, strawberries or blueberries. Also great: Coconut French toast ($9.49): Topped with whipped cream and coconut flakes. 124 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-827-3935,sebastopolsunshinecafe.com
Howard Station Cafe, Occidental, French Toast ($12)
Texas toast in a special egg batter, with vanilla and a pinch of orange zest, grilled to a golden brown and topped with powdered sugar. 3611 Bohemian Highway, Occidental, 707-874-2838, howardstationcafe.com
Cape Fear Cafe, Duncans Mills, Panhandle French Toast ($12.95)
Topped with cinnamon, vanilla, hot syrup and housemade molasses butter. 25191 Main St., Duncans Mills, 707-865-9246,capefearcafe.net
Baked and toasted French toast with strawberry sauce and vanilla cream with a plant-based protein smoothie from Baked on the River in Guerneville, Friday, Jan. 5, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Baked on the River, Guerneville, Baked and Toasted ($16)
House-baked French toast with berry coulis, vanilla cream, maple syrup and butter. 17071 Highway 116, Guerneville, 707-865-6060, facebook.com/bakedontheriver
Estero Cafe, Valley Ford, Sourdough French Toast ($17)
Thick-cut slices of Red Bird Bakery sourdough soaked in rich custard and topped with whipped cream, seasonal fruit and housemade vanilla cider maple syrup. Similar menu item at sister restaurant Americana in Santa Rosa. 14450 Highway 1, Valley Ford, 707-876-3333,esterocafe.com
Drakes Sonoma Coast, Bodega Bay, French Toast ($16)
Seasoned buttermilk batter French toast with a crunchy cornflake crust, maple syrup and seasonal compote. 103 Coast Highway 1, Bodega Bay, 707-917-0567,drakesbodegabay.com
A visitor to Stonestreet Winery makes their way thropugh a full display of fall colors in the Alexander Valley near Jimtown north of Headldsburg. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
When you live in Sonoma County, you’re never lonely for out-of-town visitors. Family, friends, college roommates, even casual acquaintances are all eager to catch up with you and take in all that the region offers.
Now through New Year’s is high season for house guests, with the number of invading out-of-towners larger than the kids’ gift lists. For local hosts, it can be a challenge deciding where to take restless visitors, especially those on a budget. Farm-to-table restaurants and taquerias are a given. Winery tasting rooms? Natch.
Go any direction in Sonoma County, and you will wind up somewhere intriguing. You’re never far from good food, natural beauty and wine tasting. But with so many choices, we’ve creamed off a few foolproof excursions that will fill up a day and make your guests’ stay in Sonoma County more memorable.
Click through the gallery for a four-day itinerary that includes some not-so-obvious explorations of Sonoma County, guaranteed to please your guests as much as you.
Meg McConahey contributed to this article.
Walk among centuries-old redwoods at Armstrong Woods State Park in Guerneville. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
Day 1: Into the Armstrong Woods and to the coast
Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve in Guerneville is a great place to introduce visitors to the natural superlatives of Sonoma County. Magnificent, 1,200-year-old Sequoia sempervirens, commonly known as coastal redwoods, tower in a way that makes humans feel very small and very serene. Redwoods are among the natural wonders of the world and among the planet’s oldest living organisms. And they’re an easy drive from anywhere in the county.
The Armstrong reserve features a 1½-mile, ADA-accessible trail, making this an easy outdoors experience for everyone in your group. Arrive early and with jackets to combat the marine chill. At 7:45 a.m., you’ll find an empty parking lot and the quiet woods, sans Segways and smartphone selfie-taking hordes. By contrast, visitors to Marin’s Muir Woods have to make a reservation.
After an hour among the gentle giants, depart as the parking lot begins to fill. Those arriving have had their breakfast, so now it’s time for yours. Coffee Bazaar in Guerneville provides house-roasted coffee and pastries. Or drive a little farther west, along the Russian River, to Duncans Mills’ Gold Coast Coffee and Bakery.
Luis Algredo bakes fresh pizza at Gold Coast Coffee and Bakery in Duncans Mills on Tuesday, Sept. 13, 2011. (Beth Schlanker/ The Press Democrat)The Duncans Mills General Store has survived for a century serving its community. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Founded in 1877, Duncans Mills is a quaint station on the way to the coast from the river towns, with a charming general store and a depot museum next to where the Northwestern Pacific Railroad once ran. If you still have Christmas shopping to do, then Duncans Mills is a good place to browse. Don’t miss Jim Raidl’s Jim and Willies, a real curiosity shop of quirky antiques and curios with a friendly proprietor.
On the road again, continue west. For some sea air and wide-open ocean views to amaze visitors from land-locked places, stop at the Vista Trail in Jenner at the mouth of the Russian River. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot some harbor seals.
After watching waves crash in the fresh sea air, you’ll be ready for the drive south on Highway 1 to Bodega Bay. This is the classic Sonoma Coast scene of crashing waves, and trails along the bluff are accessible to most people. Check out the whimsical wind spinners at Candy & Kites, the colorful array of saltwater taffy at Patrick’s and the Japanese prints at Ren Brown Collection Fine Art Gallery.
Patrick’s Salt Water Taffy in Bodega Bay, Wednesday, May 17, 2023. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)Cinnamon French toast made from Village Bakery brioche topped with butter, fresh whipped cream, organic raspberries and real maple syrup with orange slices, sparkling wine and a cappuccino at Estero Cafe in Valley Ford. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)
Start heading inland for a hit of Alfred Hitchcock in the tiny town of Bodega. Snap a “The Birds” selfie outside the old Potter School, immortalized in the scene where schoolchildren run screaming and flailing from their classroom. It’s a private residence, so stay on the road. Then swing by the nearby Saint Teresa of Avila Church, also featured in the film.
You’ll be hungry by now. For lunch, consider the Estero Cafe in Valley Ford just a few minutes’ drive away. The restaurant pays homage to local farmers with its hand-lettered chalkboard menus and homestyle food. Its inventive brunches, sandwiches and salads make it one of the county’s top foodie destinations.
Day 2: Healdsburg for the holidays
Start your day by taking in one of the most spectacular gems of Sonoma County — Lake Sonoma. Then head to Healdsburg (a 10-minute drive) for a leisurely breakfast atCosteaux French Bakery.
Avocado Toast with artisan bread, pepitas, hard-boiled eggs, chile flakes, radishes, pickled red onion and pea shoos from chef Jorge Flores at Costeaux Bakery in Healdsburg. Photo taken Wednesday, June 28, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Costeaux French Bakery is a frequent winner in baking competitions, and its fresh breads are served in Sonoma restaurants. But not many people know that Costeaux serves great breakfasts and lunches.
After breakfast, let the bookworms and audiophiles in the group browse the fiction, vinyl and CD selection at Levin & Company. Take the stairs to the mezzanine for its collection of local art, jewelry and crafts. Next, visit the antique markets — like Shoffeitt’s Off the Square and Antique Harvest— all within easy walking distance of the plaza.
No Healdsburg visit is complete without a winery stop, or two.Lambert Bridge boasts a tasting room with a large fireplace, making it a cozy place for sipping wines in colder months. The Healdsburg Bubble Bar, nestled in a quaint 1906 Queen Anne Victorian near the plaza, offers a wide assortment of sparkling wines.
Aaron Rosewater, co-owner of Levin & Company, organizes the shelves at his bookstore in Healdsburg on Tuesday, August 21, 2018. (Beth Schlanker/ The Press Democrat)The Bubble Bar tasting room in Healdsburg will focus on champagnes, sparklers, cavas, proseccos and all things bubbles. Photo taken Monday, Feb. 5, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
As the sun goes down, head toBarndiva for a craft cocktail and dinner, and watch the outdoor lights twinkle over the quirky art on the patio. Don’t miss the eclectic collection of British Cigarette Cards at the Gallery Bar.
Day 3: In search of lost time, and more wine, in Sonoma Valley
Winter is a good time to check out the new museum exhibit in Jack London State Historic Park. Even if it’s too cold or wet to hike, you can take cover in the House of Happy Walls museum dedicated to the great writer and his wife, Charmian.
Right outside the park gate, Benziger Family Winery offers vineyard tram tours that will get you out of the tasting room and among the vines, which have their own sculpted beauty in winter.
The House of Happy Walls museum at Jack London State Historic Park in Glen Ellen. (Courtesy Sonoma County Tourism)
Make it an outdoorsy day at Sonoma Botanical Garden, one of Sonoma County’s secret spots. Few travel writers have discovered it, meaning you may have this 20-acre garden of rare Asian plants all to yourself. Easy paths wind past ponds and through dense plantings of trees and shrubs with something of interest in every season. There is a nice gift shop for garden lovers as well as golf cart tours by arrangement for those with mobility problems.
In the town of Sonoma, the walkable square offers places to sip, shop and dine. For celebratory sparkles during the holidays, there’s SIGH Champagne bar. No reservations needed, and they always offer three flights of French, Californian and other tantalizing sparklers. If you have teetotalers or beer drinkers in your party, this is a great tasting room option. They also offer draft beer, regular wine and non-alcoholic beverages, as well as snack-sized bites, both savory and sweet.
Sonoma Plaza offers holiday cheer and attractions for history buffs, from the Sonoma Mission to the barracks and Toscano Hotel, all within two blocks. There’s a big parking lot behind the barracks on First Street East.
Marinated mussels, marinated vegetables, goat stew with fingerling potatoes and fried piri piri potatoes at Tasca Tasca in Sonoma. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
When you’re ready for a bite to eat, consider Tasca Tasca (TT Tapas). Tasca stands for tavern or pub in Portugal. Chef Manuel Azevedo offers updated Portuguese tapas with a fresh Sonoma spin. They’re also open late. Or head down Broadway to HopMonk Tavern for bar bites and beer, washed down with live music on the weekends.
Day 4: Petaluma, Sebastopol and a farm-to-table finale in Forestville
The age of Petaluma, settled in the 1850s, might not impress visitors from Europe, but the downtown’s quaint storefronts, heritage homes and retro memorabilia will make even your English uncle or Swedish aunt melt. But first, start with breakfast at Della Fattoria, one of the country’s finest bread bakers, famous for its Meyer lemon rosemary boule. Try the breakfast toast with ricotta cheese, banana slices, toasted pecans and honey.
Della Breakfast Toast with ricotta cheese, banana slices, toasted pecans, honey and salt at Della Fattoria in Petaluma. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)A variety of dishes from Farmstand at Farmhouse Inn in Forestville. (Aubrie Pick)
Downtown, check out the vintage guitars and mandolins at Tall Toad Music and the 1,800 varieties of heirloom seeds at The Seed Bank, owned by Baker Creek, one of the country’s leading purveyors of heirloom seed.
If you want to arrange for a farm-to-table grand finale, you could make reservations at Farmhouse Inn’s upscale but surprisingly low-key Michelin-starred restaurant in Forestville. For a more affordable but still delicious option, Farmhouse Inn’s casual eatery Farmstand serves woodfired dishes and pizza.
Orange wines are often more complex than whites, boosting their versatility with food, yet they are less likely than many red wines to overwhelm delicate dishes. (Shutterstock)
For many families, the annual Thanksgiving menu is predetermined by tradition. But that doesn’t mean you have to serve the same wine every year. The cornucopia of sweet and savory flavors on the Thanksgiving table invites a wide range of wines to join the party. Pinot Noir and bubbles are the classics — but why not add a little adventure to the meal with a bottle or two of “orange” wine?
Also known as skin-contact or amber wine, orange wine is made with white grapes. During fermentation, winemakers leave the grape skins on for a few days or longer to add color, structure and depth. The resulting orange-hued wines are often more complex than whites, boosting their versatility with food, yet they are less likely than many red wines to overwhelm delicate dishes. Some examples are light and fresh, with subtle tannins; others are intense, with bracing acidity and bitter notes.
“You’re essentially making red wine from white grapes, trying to coax certain flavors and aspects of both red and white wines,” says Luke Nio, winemaker at Kivelstadt Cellars in Santa Rosa.
Luke Nio, winemaker at Kivelstadt Cellars in Sonoma and his own Filomena Wine Company. At Thanksgiving, Nio loves to pair orange wine with his grandmother’s savory sausage and Swiss chard stuffing — and with the following day’s turkey sandwiches. (Photo by Marielle Chua)
At Thanksgiving, Nio loves to pair orange wine with his grandmother’s savory sausage and Swiss chard stuffing — and with the following day’s turkey sandwiches.
“Many orange wines are loud, bright, textural and bursting with autumn flavors,” he says. “The same can be said about towering leftover Thanksgiving sandwiches.”
William Allen, the founder and winemaker at Two Shepherds in Windsor, recommends serving lighter-style orange wines with Brussels sprouts, sage stuffing and fall salads with persimmon. Mushroom recipes are another great option.
William Allen and Karen Daenen, the team behind Two Shepherds Wine in Windsor. (Courtesy of Two Shepherds Wine)
“We’re lucky to have so many mushrooms to choose from in Sonoma,” adds co-owner Karen Daenen. “That umami flavor goes so well with light orange wines.”
Even heartier Thanksgiving dishes can pair well with skin-fermented whites, says Hardy Wallace, owner of Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah! in Sonoma.
“They have the texture and gentle tannins to work with the heavier dishes like turkey, gravy and mashed potatoes,” he says, “and also the brightness to work with some of the fresher sides like green beans, salads and lighter veggies.”
Co-owner Hardy Wallace pouring his wines during a soft opening of his new tasting room for Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah! in Sonoma, Saturday, Aug. 19, 2023. Wallace says orange wines have the texture and gentle tannins to work with heavier dishes and also the brightness to work with some fresher sides. (Erik Castro / for The Press Democrat)
Wines to try
Two Shepherds
2022 Trousseau Gris, Fanucchi Vineyard
$30
Fermented just five days on skins for a lighter touch, this salmon-hued wine boasts soft tannins and generous acidity. It’s lively on the palate, with peachy notes and a hint of citrus. Versatile with an array of holiday dishes — especially those with mushrooms. twoshepherds.com
Kivelstadt Cellars
2022 Wayward Son
$35
This orange Pinot Grigio has a deep rusty color and aromas of flowers and dry vermouth. Intense, with a touch of bitterness, the wine shines with boldly flavored dishes like sausage stuffing and turkey with gravy.kivelstadtcellars.com
Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah!
2023 Bedrock Semillon
$50
This is a serious orange wine, made for food. Vibrant orange in color, it offers aromas and flavors of melon, as well as some bitter notes from 45 days of fermentation on the skins. Try it with veggie mains like pumpkin sage gnocchi or mushroom ragu over polenta.winecoyeah.com
Fresh cranberry sauce with tangerine and mint from chef John Ash, Nov. 23, 2022. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Where would we be at the holidays without cranberries? The Thanksgiving relish, the hand-strung garlands and even the berry’s bright, tangy aroma evoke the magic of the season. While much of the nation’s crop is processed into juice, sauce or dried cranberries, some fresh cranberries are available in local farmers markets from late October through December.
Rumors once suggested a possible Sonoma County connection to the founding of a West Coast cranberry industry. It was believed that the Russian settlers who traveled south from Alaska to establish Fort Ross helped establish cranberry farms in southern Oregon. But Russians occupied Fort Ross from 1812 to 1841, and Oregon’s first cranberry farms are now believed to have been established in the 1890s.
Whatever the connection, the deliciously tart fruit deserves its place at the holiday table. This tangy-sweet cranberry salsa has a bit of heat from serrano chiles. Try it spooned over roast turkey or sweet potatoes, instead of — or alongside — the traditional cranberry-orange relish and cranberry sauce.
Jimtown chef Peter Brown’s Thanksgiving day plate includes this cranberry walnut relish with Grappa. Shot on Wednesday, Nov. 3, 2010, at the Jimtown Store in Healdsburg. (Charlie Gesell / for The Press Democrat)
2 tbsp. vinegar (cranberry, pomegranate are favorites)
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
1 tbsp. fresh cilantro, minced
1 tbsp. fresh sage, minced
Freshly cracked black pepper
Put the cranberries into the work bowl of a food processor and pulse until the berries are evenly minced. Transfer them to a medium bowl, add the serranos, onion, and orange zest and toss. Add the sugar, season with salt, add the vinegar and stir well, until the sugar is dissolved. Add the olive oil, cilantro and sage, and toss again.
Taste the mixture and add more salt or olive oil if necessary. Season with black pepper, then transfer to a serving bowl, cover and refrigerate at least 30 minutes for flavors to combine. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before serving.
Extras can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for two to three days.
Healdsburg Plaza is aglow Thursday, Dec. 22, 2022, with holiday colors. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Looking for somewhere cozy to spend the holiday season? Sonoma County locals don’t have to go far this Christmas.
Healdsburg was named one of the “Top 10 Best Christmas Towns” in an Aug. 29 Reader’s Choice Awards article from Newsweek. Additionally, digital travel publication The Travel named Healdsburg the coziest California town in the winter in an Oct. 21 article.
Healdsburg among best Christmas towns
Out of Newsweek’s 10 best towns to celebrate Christmas in the United States, Healdsburg ranked No. 3. Healdsburg’s tree lighting ceremonies, night markets and carriage rides, in addition to top-notch wine and cuisine, secured the city’s spot on the list.
Nominees are chosen by editors with contributions from a panel of travel agents. Newsweek editors then determine the final list, according to the website.
Grapevine, Texas and Solvang, California clinched the top two spots on the list. However, Healdsburg topped other well-known holiday locales, like Santa Claus, Indiana (No. 5) and Aspen, Colorado (No. 7).
A neatly sculpted Christmas tree is the perfect backdrop as a couple share a holiday kiss at the Healdsburg Plaza, Wednesday, Dec. 8, 2021. This year’s annual Merry Healdsburg Tree Lighting Celebration will take place on the Healdsburg Plaza on Dec. 6, 2024. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2021The annual Merry Healdsburg Tree Lighting Celebration will take place on the Healdsburg Plaza on Dec. 6, 2024. Along with the tree lighting and carriage rides, the celebration includes a festive holiday night market featuring over a dozen local food, drink and craft vendors. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Winter holiday events in Healdsburg
One winter activity of note is the Merry Healdsburg Tree Lighting Celebration. The event takes place from 5-9 p.m. on Dec. 6 at the Healdsburg Plaza on Matheson Street and Healdsburg Avenue.
Santa Claus will be around to take photos with families, and live musical performances and complimentary carriage rides will liven the festivities. There will also be a holiday market with local vendors surrounding the streets of the plaza.
Dry Creek Kitchen at Hotel Healdsburg will be decorated in holiday decor for their Holiday Tea event. People of all ages are welcome to join the restaurant for a festive afternoon of tea, cocktails, housemade pastries, finger sandwiches and other holiday fare from 1-2:30 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays, Dec. 7-22.
The event is $79 for tea service and food, $93 for tea service, food and wine or cocktail, and $49 for children under 12 years, who can get food, tea, cider and hot chocolate.
Jordan Winery will also host its annual Christmas at Jordan party from 1-4 p.m. on Dec. 7.
This year, the Jordan Chateau will transform its winery into New York City’s Rockefeller Center, with festive decor, lighting and backdrops. Executive chef Jesse Mallgren will prepare winter meals paired with different wines.
Guests are encouraged to bring a wrapped toy to include in the Toys for Tots toy drive.
Tickets are $175 per person. 1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-5250, jordanwinery.com
Lambert Bridge Winery on West Dry Creek Road in Healdsburg has a cozy tasting room with a fireplace, shown lit for the holidays. The winery hosts a number of holiday events, including a Wreath Making Class from 4-6 p.m. on Dec. 12. (Courtesy of Lambert Bridge Winery)Seafood Ramen with a medley of scallops, shrimp and squid in a shiso ponzu broth from Taste of Tea in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The coziest California town in winter
In The Travel article, travel journalist Jessica Tucker called Healdsburg one of those “laid-back California towns perfect for a relaxing getaway in the cozy wintertime,” despite its Michelin-star restaurants and high-end shopping.
The town boasts a variety of winter-friendly activities, both outdoors and indoors. Although the weather can get cold, it’s not too frigid for outdoorsy fun. The article highlights various hikes, kayaking, winery tours, winter-themed events and more.
A number of Healdsburg’s best restaurants are also great, cozy refuges when the weather gets a bit too blustery. Some of our favorites are Parish Cafe for a Southern comfort breakfast, Guiso Latin Fusion for Salvadoran pupusas and The Taste of Tea for a steaming bowl of ramen.
Short Rib Chili with Anaheim, pasilla and chipotle peppers from chef Chad Holmes of Chad’s Soup Shack. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Scraping the last re-microwaved, DoorDashed mac and cheese from my plate on a blustery winter morning, comfort food is top of mind. The nights are long, the world is complicated and my chances of a mistletoe smooch are looking slim.
Whatever your woes, there’s no shortage of reasons to power-nosh on mashed potatoes and gravy, steaming soups, or piles of nachos washed down with an espresso martini or three. Fortunately, there are plenty of delightful dishes in Sonoma County to boost your morale. So gather with friends and family around the table for all the carbs and butter you want. Swimsuit season is months away. And that’s something to smile about.
Here are some favorite indulgences of mine.
Soup, Chad’s Soup Shack
The lineup from chef Chad Holmes constantly evolves, but a recent farm market menu included roasted corn and shrimp chowder, split pea and ham, chicken green chili stew, vegetarian mushroom bisque and lemon chicken bone broth — not to mention a brisket grilled cheese sandwich. Think of it as your reward for those cold market mornings. Find him at Santa Rosa Community and Petaluma Eastside Farmer’s Markets. chadssoupshack.com
Loaded baked potato at Stark’s Steak and Seafood in Santa Rosa. (Stark’s Steak and Seafood)
Loaded Baked Potato, Stark’s Steak & Seafood
Before viral Frappuccinos or frozen yogurt, the baked potato (and offspring, potato skins) ruled supreme in almost every mall food court in America. I vote to bring back the humble spud, covered with sour cream, cheese, bacon, chives and extra butter. Stark’s goes one step further, classing the whole thing up with roasted broccolini, crème fraîche and smoked cheddar fondue. 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-5100, starkrestaurants.com
Currywurst, Tisza Bistro
Housemade bratwurst, sliced into pieces and laid over beer-battered fries and caramelized onions with a curry-spiked ketchup. It’s a mess but in the very best way. 165 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-291-5193, tiszabistro.com
Mac and cheese, SoCo MacHaus
An alter-ego of Franchettis’ Gasthaus, this pickup and delivery-only mac and cheese menu features heaping helpings of mac and cheese gussied up with fried chicken, a medley of mushrooms, bacon or hot dogs. Righteous. Delivery to Santa Rosa area only. Find it on doordash.com or socomachaus.com
Quesabirria, Mi Ranchito
Taking the win for its lacy bits of caramelized cheese, butter-soft meat and grill-kissed quesabirria that arrive with a steaming cup of consommé is humble Mi Ranchito. The real clincher? Cozy indoor seating. Taco trucks are great and all, but sitting on a curb with a Styrofoam plate is less than ideal in winter. 90 Mark West Springs Road, Santa Rosa, 707-978-2295, miranchitomexicancuisine.com
Seafood Ramen with a medley of scallops, shrimp and squid in a shiso ponzu broth from Taste of Tea in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Ramen, The Taste of Tea
Japanese comfort food is the name of the game here. One of chef Nez Tokugawa’s signatures is Miso Ramen ($14), made with vegan kombu broth — a traditional ramen base. Topped with barbecue pork, a shoyu-marinated egg, bamboo shoots and nori, it’s a bowl of warmth and deeply satisfying flavor. 109 North St., Healdsburg, 707-431-1995, thetasteoftea.com
Giant cinnamon roll, Wild Flour Bread
I watched a first-timer order this legendary cinnamon roll with a knowing smile. The size of a small hubcap, these gooey, sticky morning buns will hit your gut like a freight train to Pastry Town. I usually eat half in the car and half — with unsalted butter — when I get home. Plus, it’s a lovely ride, and their gardens, even in winter, are worth a walk-through. 140 Bohemian Highway, Freestone, 707-874-2938, wildflourbread.com
Mediterranean Platter, East West Cafe
I could eat beet hummus for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sweet, earthy and a perfect pairing with piping hot, crispy falafel bites. The platter also includes regular hummus, baba ganoush, stuffed grape leaves, tabbouleh and pita. 557 Summerfield Road, Santa Rosa, 707-546-6142, eastwestcafesantarosa.com
Truffle Fries at Jackson’s Bar & Oven in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
French fries, Jackson’s Bar and Oven
These fries are the gold standard. Not only are they imbued with truffle oil, but they come with a sprinkle of Pecorino Romano cheese and a side of tart lemon aioli. Plan to order extra aioli if you’re sharing (though we recommend keeping them all to yourself). 135 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-6900, jacksonsbarandoven.com
Nachos, La Rosa Tequileria
Maybe it is the tequila talking, but a pile of warm tortilla chips smothered in melted cheese with all the toppings (guacamole, crema, refried beans, salsa fresca and jalapeños) reaches heavenly heights with a crown of carnitas. 500 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-523-3663, larosasantarosa.com
Empanadas, Vinoma
By now, most folks know that this gas station spot in west Rohnert Park is worth a trip for its California-meets-Argentina empanadas. Like doughnuts, one is never enough, so try a few, including the traditional beef with Spanish olives, steak and cheese, al pastor and vegetarian corn in creamy nutmeg sauce. 5085 Redwood Drive, Rohnert Park, 707-536-9215, vinoma.net
Meatballs and mashed potatoes at Stockhome restaurant. (Courtesy of newrevmedia.com)
Swedish Meatballs, Stockhome
A neighborhood hub for unfussy, family-friendly Turkish and Mediterranean street food found in Sweden’s larger cities, plus homey classics like Swedish meatballs, pickled herring and Swedish pancakes on the menu — all of it with a few nods to California as well. The meatballs, swimming in gravy and nestled against a pile of mashed potatoes with lingonberry jam on the side, are the grown-up version of the Ikea classic. 220 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8511, stockhomerestaurant.com
Grilled Cheese and Tomato Soup, Red Grape
The stuff your mom made on sick days, but without being burnt on one side and with clumps in the canned soup. Here, the tomato basil soup is smooth as silk, and the sandwich has a Parmesan crust with sharp white cheddar melted in the middle. 529 First St., Sonoma, 707-996-4103, theredgrape.com
Tuna Sandwich, D’s Diner
Always a top choice when I’m feeling the tug of a toasted tuna sandwich. It’s not fancy, but the tuna is fresh, the cheese is perfectly melted and the plain old white bread is toasted. 7260 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-829-8080; 750 Stony Point Road, Suite A-190, Santa Rosa, 707-843-3041
Croque-Monsieur from Maison Porcella in Windsor, April 13, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Croque Monsieur, Maison Porcella
Chef Marc-Henri Jean-Baptiste’s luxurious pâté, sausages and Parisian-style ham are the draw of this cozy café and wine bar, but if you’re willing to wait a minute, you can get a piping hot croque that makes all other croques seem pitiful. This grand ham and cheese sandwich includes creamy béchamel, Gruyere cheese, housemade milk bread and thin slices of Jean-Baptiste’s award-winning ham. 8499 Old Redwood Highway, Suite 114, Windsor, 707-955-5611, maisonporcella.com
European Drinking Chocolate, Sonoma Chocolatiers & Tea House
Not even in the same universe as Swiss Miss. Made with chocolate shavings and hot milk (plus chili and almond extract optional), it’s a liquid candy bar made for sipping slowly and paging through Proust on a rainy day. 6988 McKinley St., Sebastopol, 707-829-1181, sonomachocolatiers.com
Sora Napa at the Meritage Resort & Spa. (Photo: Bob McClenahan)
It’s beginning to look a lot like the holidays, which has many of us thinking about sparkling wines. I pop open bubbly year-round — it’s my favorite wine for everything from fried chicken to foie gras (and even French toast for breakfast).
Sonoma and Napa County wineries have long produced sparkling wines in the manner of French Champagne, using méthode champenoise. And over the past several years, there has been a dizzying array of effervescent varietals crafted by local wineries.
More recently, a spate of tasting rooms focused on a combination of local and imported sparklings have opened, including SIGH, a sparkling specialist shop. Debuting in 2012 in a 400-square-foot Vine Alley shop off the Sonoma Plaza, it led the trend. In 2017, owner Jayme Powers moved to a new space nearby, quadrupling the footprint and adding more sparkling wine and Champagnes.
SIGH Champagne Bar in Sonoma. (Courtesy of Wilson Ishihara Design)
New locally-crafted sparklers are taking a greater spotlight. Consider Breathless Wines of Healdsburg, whose Sonoma County Sparkling Brut Rosé won the Sweepstakes Specialty wine award at this past October’s Sonoma County Harvest Fair Professional Wine Competition.
Here are some more new and favorite spots to explore the world of bubbles:
Iron Horse Vineyards
The Sebastopol estate has been legendary since 1976. But partner and CEO Joy Sterling keeps things fresh by doing innovative things like the new magnum tastings paired with picnics of charcuterie, flatbread, gourmet snacks and caviar offered in the summer, plus periodic seasonal Oyster Sundays that made a return in 2024. This retreat is pure Sonoma style, as you relax in gardens or in rustic, redwood barn buildings at the end of a meandering, one-lane road, on a hill with sweeping vineyard views.
Among the dozen-plus sparkling wines on offer, several give back to the community, too, such as the 2019 Resilience Dry Rosé, with proceeds going to the Sonoma County Resilience Fund for disaster recovery, and the 2019 Pinot Noir-based Gratitude benefiting the Redwood Empire Food Bank.
A glass of sparkling rosé from Iron Horse Vineyards in Sebastopol. (Courtesy of Iron Horse Vineyards)At Maison Healdsburg wine bar. (Sarah Davis)
Maison Healdsburg
Small production Champagne stars at this hip, stylish salon run by a team of sommeliers and Michelin restaurant wine directors. Tasting options vary daily, and you can stock up on precious finds like a 2018 Brick & Mortar Manchester Ridge Vineyard Blanc de Blancs from Mendocino Ridge ($110) or a spectacular 2008 Krug Clos du Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut ($3,800).
Sora Napa
Part of a two-year, $25 million property upgrade at Meritage Resort & Spa in Napa, this brand-new glam salon glitters with more than 30 imported and local Champagnes and sparkling wines. Posh decor sets the stage for an elevated, often unique experience in an intimate, 28-seat setting with a marble bar, velvet chairs and glass bubble lights.
Start with a glass of 2020 Brendel Young Leon Napa Frizzante Rosé of Grignolino ($20), then move on to a bright Lavender Sparkle cocktail of Tanqueray 10 gin, fresh lemon juice, lavender and Champagne ($19). I highly recommend the four themed flights: Migration (three French labels), Native (California), Flock (Germany, Italy and Austria), and Soaring (Spain, England and France).
Sparkling flight at Sora Napa at the Meritage Resort & Spa. (Photo: Bob McClenahan)The Bubble Bar tasting room in Healdsburg focuses on Champagnes, sparklers, Cavas, Proseccos and all things bubbles. Photo taken Monday, Feb. 5, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Healdsburg Bubble Bar
Winemaker Sarah Quider fronts this new sparkling wine-exclusive tasting room in a 1906 Queen Anne Victorian off the Plaza. Quider dreamed of creating a Parisian bistro showcasing Champagne and treats like Champagne cake slathered in Champagne buttercream frosting. The sips menu changes frequently, but you can expect about a dozen premium international selections by the glass, plus page after page of interesting bottle choices. There are French bubblies, of course, but also more obscure sparklings from South Africa, Spain, Italy, England, Germany and Austria amid a smattering of California and New Zealand favorites.
Azur Wines
This new Napa space is Barbie cute, trimmed in pink walls, but sophisticated with European art and a speakeasy behind a hidden door. Owner Elan Fayard is best known for her rosé still wine but recently launched two custom-label Champagnes made through partnerships with French producers. You can taste them both in a flight, featuring generous splashes of elegant NV Hervieux-Dumez Champagne and 2018 Vincent Joudart Champagne.
