You’re more likely to find ostrich boots and luxury Land Rovers around the Healdsburg Plaza than the dusty cowboy boots and dirty pickup trucks that populate Sonoma’s richest agricultural acreage.
Now winkingly referred to as “Beverly Healdsburg,” longtime locals chafe at the influx of tech moguls, hedge funders and celebrities who are buying second (or fifth) homes in the region and driving up the cost of, well, everything.
We get it; it’s a nice place.
But without the influx of money, Healdsburg wouldn’t be the gastro-destination it’s become over the past 20 years. It has the highest concentration of Michelin stars, celebrity chefs and awe-inspiring menus in the North Bay. Patrons of its restaurants allow chefs to push boundaries, explore new ideas and take big risks that wouldn’t be possible elsewhere.
Change is inevitable, especially as more and more city-dwellers discover Wine Country’s charms. Hopefully, however, Healdsburg will keep some of that agricultural ethos that made it so charming in the first place.
Here are some of my favorite restaurants worth trying (or revisiting).
Neighborhoody
Guiso Latin Fusion: Hidden between tented rice chicharrones, two curled octopus tentacles peep out from a bed of quinoa atop a rough granite slab dotted by lime foam. This edible seascape is almost too beautiful to eat. Almost. At this cozy Healdsburg hideaway, chef Carlos Mojica does gastro-magic in a way that isn’t precious just for the sake of being impressive. Instead, the young chef tells captivating stories with each better-than-the-next dish — from his grandmother’s secret recipe for Latin-style tomato sauce and his mother’s daily preparation of Salvadoran pupusas, stuffed with flower buds and cheese or the Pao de Queijo (Brazilian cheese bread) inspired by a childhood friend. Though the petite restaurant is a hometown favorite, it still floats under the radar of most dining guides, making it a hidden gem in a town dominated by showy Michelin stars. 117 North St, Healdsburg, 707-431-1302, guisolatinfusion.com.
Gallery Barndiva: Kick back in this expansive art and dining space for a craft cocktail, The Gallery Burger (a hamburger stuffed with cheese in a Bordelaise sauce) and thoughtful conversation. Watch for upcoming events that highlight environmental visionaries. 237 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-431-7404, barndiva.com.
HBG–Healdsburg Bar and Grill: Owned by a Michelin-starred chef, this casual bistro is where Healdsburg comes to grab a burger, beer-battered onion rings, fried chicken sandwiches and local beers. Plus, it has the area’s best Bloody Mary. 2245 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-3333, healdsburgbarandgrill.com.
Molti Amici: Summer sunsets were made for convivial Italian aperitifs, gourmet wood-fired pizza and bocce ball at this neighborhood trattoria. The name translates to “many friends,”which you’ll undoubtedly find while lazing away under fringed umbrellas or relaxing on lime-striped cushions inspired by Wes Anderson movies. The cool kid vibes extend to fun bathroom décor (we’ll let you be surprised). 330 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-756-3169, moltiamici.com.
Lunchy
Iggy’s: What if a Big Mac was made with two organic beef and tallow patties sandwiched between three Hawaiian buns, with organic cheddar and topped with homemade “million island” sauce? What if that burger was available inside an ice cream shop? And what if that burger (with twice-cooked fries, natch) was one of the most affordable meals in Healdsburg? Iggy’s is the answer. A mom-and-son collab that includes some of the best burgers and ice cream in the county. 109 Plaza St., Healdsburg. Information is online at instagram.com/iggysburger.
Alter Egos
Troubadour & Le Diner: Chefs Melissa Yanc and Sean McGaughey, the owners of the popular Quail & Condor bakery, run this beloved boulangerie and sandwich shop by day and French bistro by night. Wednesday through Saturday evenings, McGaughey riffs on French classics at “Le Diner.” The prix fixe menu changes seasonally, but expect picture-perfect courses made in the tiny cafe kitchen. $125 per person by prepaid reservation only. 381 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, troubadourhbg.com
Great Drinks, Great Food
Lo & Behold: Want to know where off-duty restaurant staff hang out? You’ll find them here, kicking back with a craft cocktail and shareable plates like Vietnamese crepes with pork belly, gussied-up chicken tenders, beef brisket tacos, and steamed mussels with chorizo or pimento crab dip. Belly up to the bar for the “World’s Best Vodka Soda” with local vodka and “Unicorn Tears.” So good. Open until midnight. 214 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-756-5021, loandbeholdca.com
Matheson, Roof 106: Chef Dustin Valette’s ambitious multistory restaurant complex includes, downstairs, a cocktail bar, a wine wall with by-the-glass vending machines (top-notch stuff, of course) and a more formal dining menu (don’t miss the Tamanishiki Rice Porridge or Aged Sonoma Duck). Upstairs, enjoy pizzas, salads and nibbles on the covered deck. 106 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-723-1106, themeathson.com
Willi’s Seafood: Seafood-centric small plates are the order of the day. Don’t miss the lobster roll, Dungeness crab Louie, one of the area’s best raw oyster bars, steamer pots of mussels swimming in PBR and Old Bay, and a selection of seafood tartare. 403 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, 707-433-9191, starkrestaurants.com
Iconic
Dry Creek Kitchen: Chef Charlie Palmer has updated the dining room and the menu at this clubby Healdsburg institution, though it remains true to his progressive American style. Executive Chef Shane McAnelly has recently taken over the reins, adding twists like seasonal agnolotti and umami-rich proteins. Leave room for clever desserts from their in-house pastry chef. $135 per person, five courses. 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-0330, drycreekkitchen.com.
SingleThread Farm Restaurant: A 15-plus-course tasting menu at this three-Michelin-starred restaurant is an event, not just a night out. Chef Kyle Connaughton’s micro-seasonal dishes are inspired by his time in Hokkaido, Japan, and the bounty of the restaurant’s farm. Reservations are required for this once-in-a-lifetime experience. The wine list is one of the best in the area, and that’s saying something. 131 North St., Healdsburg, 707-723-4646, singlethreadfarms.com.
Valette: The eponymous restaurant of chef Dustin Valette somehow manages to be luxurious and casual simultaneously. Go for the “Trust Me” tasting menu that gives the best insight into Valette’s talents, curated ingredients and playfulness. 344 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-0946, valettehealdsburg.com
Second Story at Little Saint: Chef Stu Stalker, formerly of Denmark’s famous NOMA restaurant, is not only pushing the boundaries of plant-based menus, but he’s also creating a new vision (and techniques) for haute vegan cuisine at Healdsburg’s Little Saint — a groundbreaking food, wine and music experience. Hyper-seasonal produce comes from Little Saint’s farm, and the wine program is led by a rising sommelier who isn’t afraid to have a little fun. The prix fixe experience is modest by Healdsburg standards, at $125 pp, and includes multiple courses and desserts. 25 North St., Healdsburg, 707-433-8207, littlesainthealdsburg.com
(Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Around the World
Bravas Bar de Tapas: The expansive patio is a year-round draw, with the restaurant’s sangrias, ciders, wines and cocktails served with bites of Iberico ham and manchego cheese, tuna belly salad, mushroom escabeche, bacon-wrapped dates with blue cheese and Marcona almonds. The menu is expansive, so come hungry. 420 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-433-7700, starkrestaurants.com
Taste of Tea: This sweet, family-owned Japanese tea house has homey bento boxes, ramen, rice bowls and hard-to-find onigiri (rice balls). An extensive tea menu has more than 80 choices from around the globe, plus sake cocktails, milk tea and matcha. 109 North St., Healdsburg, tasteoftea.com
Baked
Quail and Condor: Two SingleThread alums’ deep dive into bread-making has become a destination bakery with an ever-changing lineup of challah, sourdough loaves, sweet croissants, excellent Kouign Amann, cinnamon rolls and more. Order online to ensure you’ll get something before the cases are stripped bare. 149 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-473-8254, quailandcondor.com.
