Three Orange Wines From Sonoma County To Try for the Holidays

For many families, the annual Thanksgiving menu is predetermined by tradition. But that doesn’t mean you have to serve the same wine every year. The cornucopia of sweet and savory flavors on the Thanksgiving table invites a wide range of wines to join the party. Pinot Noir and bubbles are the classics — but why not add a little adventure to the meal with a bottle or two of “orange” wine?

Also known as skin-contact or amber wine, orange wine is made with white grapes. During fermentation, winemakers leave the grape skins on for a few days or longer to add color, structure and depth. The resulting orange-hued wines are often more complex than whites, boosting their versatility with food, yet they are less likely than many red wines to overwhelm delicate dishes. Some examples are light and fresh, with subtle tannins; others are intense, with bracing acidity and bitter notes.

“You’re essentially making red wine from white grapes, trying to coax certain flavors and aspects of both red and white wines,” says Luke Nio, winemaker at Kivelstadt Cellars in Santa Rosa.

At Thanksgiving, Nio loves to pair orange wine with his grandmother’s savory sausage and Swiss chard stuffing — and with the following day’s turkey sandwiches.

“Many orange wines are loud, bright, textural and bursting with autumn flavors,” he says. “The same can be said about towering leftover Thanksgiving sandwiches.”

William Allen, the founder and winemaker at Two Shepherds in Windsor, recommends serving lighter-style orange wines with Brussels sprouts, sage stuffing and fall salads with persimmon. Mushroom recipes are another great option.

“We’re lucky to have so many mushrooms to choose from in Sonoma,” adds co-owner Karen Daenen. “That umami flavor goes so well with light orange wines.”

Even heartier Thanksgiving dishes can pair well with skin-fermented whites, says Hardy Wallace, owner of Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah! in Sonoma.

“They have the texture and gentle tannins to work with the heavier dishes like turkey, gravy and mashed potatoes,” he says, “and also the brightness to work with some of the fresher sides like green beans, salads and lighter veggies.”

Wines to try