Where to Celebrate Mardi Gras in Sonoma County

Jambalaya at The Parish Cafe in Healdsburg. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

Mardi Gras — the colorful, pre-Lenten celebration held on Shrove Tuesday (March 4) — is right around the corner, and Sonoma County has some New Orleans-level festivities planned.

French for “Fat Tuesday,” Mardi Gras tradition calls for eating all the fats in the home in preparation for Lent fasting. In addition to feasting, the day is filled with festive music, costumes and parades. Not ones to turn down a good time, Sonoma County restaurants and bars have a handful of celebrations in store for people to bask in the revelry.

All events take place on Mardi Gras day, March 4, unless noted otherwise.

Mardi Gras Party and Feast at Rio Nido Roadhouse, Rio Nido

The Russian River’s Rio Nido Roadhouse will host two events for Mardi Gras this year. Its annual Mardi Gras Party will take place from 4-7 p.m., March 1, featuring Sonoma County’s NOLA funk and jazz group Bourbon Street Brass Band. New Orleans-inspired food will be served, including Louisiana gumbo, muffuletta sandwiches, beignets and king cake, as well as specialty cocktails.

The roadhouse will host its Fat Tuesday Feast from noon to 7 p.m., March 4, with live jazz music from Bay Area band Honey Disposition. NOLA menu specials will be served all day, featuring po’boys, crawfish boudin balls, Cajun shrimp and grits, and desserts, plus cocktails. Music starts at 5 p.m. Both the Mardi Gras Party and Fat Tuesday Feast are for all ages; no cover charge.

14540 Canyon 2 Road, Rio Nido, 707-869-0821, rionidoroadhouse.com

Shrimp and grits at The Parish Cafe in Healdsburg. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Shrimp and grits at The Parish Cafe in Healdsburg. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Beignets at Parish Cafe in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin)
Beignets at Parish Cafe in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Mardi Gras with Parish Cafe & Elephant in the Room, Healdsburg

Healdsburg’s New Orleans-inspired Parish Cafe will team up with nearby bar and music venue Elephant in the Room for its fourth annual Fat Tuesday party. Parish Cafe will serve traditional Louisiana dishes, such as crawfish, jambalya, muffuletta and beignets, from 2-8 p.m. Meanwhile, on the stage at Elephant in the Room, there will be live music performances by Brian Boudin Band, Spike Sikes and His Awesome Hotcakes, and Vernon “Ice” Black and The House Party. There will also be a photo booth, kids’ activities like mask decorating, and drinks from Flambeaux Wines and Fogbelt Brewing. Tickets are $25 for adults, $10 for children ages 2-12 and free for children under 2. Food and drink tokens are $8. Purchase tickets on Eventbrite.

The Parish Cafe, 60 Mill St., Healdsburg, 707-431-8474, theparishcafe.com. The Elephant In the Room, 177 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, elephantintheroompub.com

Mardi Gras Celebration with Sally Tomatoes, Rohnert Park

Sally Tomatoes will host a Mardi Gras celebration and community night from 5-8 p.m. at its Rohnert Park events venue. The night will include a Cajun buffet featuring portobello soup, dirty rice, big chicken mamou, cornbread with honey butter, carved roast beef and pecan sugar cookies. General admission is $20 for adults and $10 for kids. Call to RSVP.

1100 Valley House Drive, Rohnert Park, 707-665-9472, sallytomatoes.com

Alec McNeill, left, and Tim Eschliman with members of the Rhythmtown-Jive band lead a parade of Mardi Gras revelers in a parade down American Alley in Petaluma on Tuesday, February 28, 2017. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Alec McNeill, left, and Tim Eschliman with members of the Rhythmtown-Jive band lead a parade of Mardi Gras revelers in a parade down American Alley in Petaluma on Tuesday, Feb. 28, 2017. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

34th Annual Mardi Gras Mambofest, Petaluma

Petaluma’s Mystic Theatre will host its annual Mardi Gras Mambofest, featuring a night filled with live music, food and revelry. Starting at 6:15 p.m., festivities kick off with a band-led street parade through downtown and back to the theater. Bay Area Americana group California Blue Runners will get the music flowing at 7 p.m., followed by Rhythmtown-Jive performing from 8:15-9:45 p.m. Next door, McNear’s Saloon will serve Cajun food and drinks. General admission is $15. Purchase tickets online.

23 Petaluma Blvd., Petaluma, 707-765-2121, mystictheatre.com

Semla at Stockhome, Petaluma

As in the sweet Swedish tradition for Fat Tuesday, Petaluma’s Stockhome restaurant will offer its annual semla — a cardamom bun filled with whipped cream and marzipan (sweet almond paste). The treat is only available during the month of February, so you’ll want to order your semla by Feb. 28 in time for Mardi Gras. A single semla is $9, an order of six semlor (plural for semla) is $48 and a dozen semlor is $108. Order for pickup online.

220 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8511, stockhomerestaurant.com

Semla, a traditional Fat Tuesday bun in Sweden, is available at Stockhome restaurant in Petaluma throughout February only. (Stockhome)
Semla, a traditional Fat Tuesday bun in Sweden, is available at Stockhome restaurant in Petaluma throughout February only. (Stockhome)
Lemon Ricotta Hotcake with Acorn house lemon curd, whipped ricotta, oat crumble and lemon lavender ice cream from the Acorn Cafe Thursday, October 3, 2024, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Lemon Ricotta Hotcake with Acorn house lemon curd, whipped ricotta, oat crumble and lemon lavender ice cream from the Acorn Cafe Thursday, October 3, 2024, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

More dining options for Mardi Gras

In addition to New Orleans cuisine from The Parish Cafe in Healdsburg and semla from Stockhome in Petaluma, there are plenty of other eateries in the county to enjoy traditional Mardi Gras and Louisiana-inspired foods. Shrove Tuesday is also known as Pancake Day. Head to Healdsburg’s Acorn Cafe (124 Matheson St.) for the fattest pancakes in the county. Find more of our favorite pancakes in Sonoma County here.

Bag O’ Crab: Seafood boils, including shrimp, crawfish and more, plus Cajun and “Louisiana Flavor” seasoning options. 1901 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-843-7267, bagocrabusa.com

Rocker Oysterfeller’s: Shrimp étouffée, Cajun pasta and beignets at the Valley Ford location. New Orleans barbecue shrimp, blackened Gulf shrimp and Carolina grits, Cajun blackened pasta, Creole fisherman’s stew and sticky praline bread pudding at the Lucas Wharf location. 14415 Highway 1, Valley Ford, 707-876-1983; 595 Highway 1, Bodega Bay, 707-772-5670, rockeroysterfellers.com

Saucy Mama’s Jook Joint: Cajun chicken, po’boys, fried catfish, fried okra and beignets. 16632 Highway 116, Guerneville, 707-604-7184, saucymamasjookjoint.com

Simmer Claw Bar: Vietnamese-Cajun seafood boils, including shrimp and crawfish, with Cajun seasoning option. 595 Rohnert Park Expressway, Rohnert Park, 707-806-2080, simmerfamily.com

Smackin Soul Food: Cajun fried shrimp, black-eyed peas and rice, Cajun chicken alfredo and more. Email smackin707@gmail.com for catering. instagram.com/smackinsoulfood

Sweet T’s Restaurant + Bar: Hush puppies, boiled and seasoned shrimp, catfish po’boy, Cajun shrimp gumbo, shrimp and grits and blackened catfish. 9098 Brooks Road S., Windsor, 707-687-5185, sweettssouthern.com

The Best Upcoming Food and Wine Events in Sonoma and Napa

Buttermilk fried chicken sandwiches on a brioche roll with slaw and dijonnaise by chefs Marianna Gardenhire and Daniel Kedan of Backyard restaurant during the North Coast Food and Wine Festival at SOMO Village in Rohnert Park, California, on Saturday, June 10, 2017. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

It’s time to get those calendars organized and start blocking off the many days you need to stay put in Wine Country, because an amazing lineup of food and wine festivals are getting ready to kick off in Sonoma County and Napa Valley. Think award-winning vino and bites that, in some cases, are paired with famous musicians from around the globe.

Read below for details on upcoming food and wine events in Sonoma and Napa counties, and scroll through the gallery above to see scenes from previous years’ events.

Wine Road’s Barrel Tasting Weekend, March 1-2

Wine Road Sonoma County’s barrel tasting weekend welcomes this year’s attendees to experience library wines, step into the cellar and explore barrel wines or simply enjoy current vintages and stock up on some wines at the event. Participating wineries are located throughout northern Sonoma County, including in Healdsburg, Santa Rosa, Windsor, Guerneville, Forestville, Sebastopol, Cloverdale and Geyserville. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., March 1-2. Tickets are $80 for the weekend, $60 for Sunday only and $10 for the designated driver. Find more information at wineroad.com.

At D’Argenzio Winery in Santa Rosa. (D’Argenzio Winery )
D’Argenzio Winery in Santa Rosa will participate in the Wine Road’s Barrel Tasting Weekend. (D’Argenzio Winery )
Food and Wine Events in Sonoma and Napa
Celebrate spring in Sonoma Wine Country at Passport to Dry Creek Valley. (Charlie Gessell/For Sonoma Magazine)

Passport to Dry Creek Valley, April 25-27

Now in its 34th year, Passport to Dry Creek Valley welcomes visitors to over 25 wineries throughout one of Sonoma County’s most famous wine regions, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., April 26 and 27. Along with stellar wine and food pairings during the weekend, there will be a “Twilight Welcome Party” from 5:30-8:30 p.m. on Friday, April 25, at Bacchus Landing in Healdsburg. Tickets are $35 per day for non-drinkers, $95 per day for weekend Passport guests, $175 for a two-day Passport (Saturday and Sunday) and $150 for the Friday Twilight Welcome Party. Purchase tickets at drycreekvalley.org.

Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience, May 15-18

Local farmers, winemakers and chefs will showcase the renowned food and wine made in Sonoma County during the fourth annual Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience, May 15-18. Over a dozen talented chefs from Sonoma County and around the world, including chefs Antonia Lofaso and Stephanie Izard, will craft seasonal bites for the Vintners Plaza Grand Tasting on May 17.

Part of the proceeds from the Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience go to local nonprofits, including Farm to Pantry and the Healdsburg chapter of Future Farmers of America. Tickets start from $200 for select events; the platinum VIP weekend package is $4,500. Events take place around the county. Find more information and purchase tickets at healdsburgwineandfood.com.

Chef Stephanie Izard will appear Sept. 25 at Women In Conversation in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy photo)
Chef Stephanie Izard will appear at the Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience. (Courtesy photo)
Food and Wine Events in Sonoma and Napa
Bling Bling Dumpling booth serves up fried pork dumplings with veggie spring rolls Friday, May 27, 2022, during BottleRock Napa Valley in Napa. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)

BottleRock Napa Valley, May 23-25

Wine Country’s biggest music festival returns on Memorial Day Weekend, taking place at the Napa Valley Expo. This year’s headliners include Green Day, Justin Timberlake and Noah Kahan. Some notable Bay Area musicians in the lineup include E-40, Remi Wolf, 4 Non Blondes and The Silverado Pickups.

BottleRock Napa Valley will also serve some of the best cuisine in Wine Country, including from Michelin-starred PRESS Restaurant, Morimoto Napa, Stateline Road Smokehouse, Gerard’s Paella and HopMonk Tavern. A number of Napa Valley wineries will be pouring at the event, as well as Petaluma’s Lagunitas Brewing Company.

General admission is $233 for a one-day pass and $456 for a three-day pass. VIP and Skydeck tickets are currently sold out. Purchase tickets at bottlerocknapavalley.com/tickets.

Napa Valley Expo, 575 Third St., Napa, bottlerocknapavalley.com

Food and Wine Events in Sonoma and Napa
Chili braised pork shoulder sliders on brioche with Napa cabbage slaw by chef Crista Luedtke at The Press Democrat’s North Coast Wine & Food Festival. (Will Bucquoy)

North Coast Wine & Food Festival, June 14

Nearly 100 gold-winning wines from the North Coast Wine Challenge will be served alongside dishes from 25 much-loved Wine Country chefs from 1-4 p.m. on June 14 at the Luther Burbank Center for the Arts in Santa Rosa. This event is organized by The Press Democrat, sister publication of Sonoma Magazine. Designated driver tickets are $60, general admission is $130 and VIP tickets are $260. Purchase tickets online (includes a 15% convenience fee) or in person at the LBC ticket office (no extra fees).

The North Coast Wine & Food Festival supports local nonprofit Sonoma Family Meal, a network of chefs, farmers and food producers fighting food insecurity during disasters. Heather Irwin, dining editor at Sonoma Magazine, founded the nonprofit.

Luther Burbank Center for the Arts, 50 Mark West Springs Road, Santa Rosa, 707-521-5231, northcoastwineandfood.com

Food and Wine Events in Sonoma and Napa
Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens in Santa Rosa hosted the annual Taste of Sonoma event in 2024. (Bob McClenahan / Taste of Sonoma)

Taste of Sonoma, June 21

More than 100 wineries will be pouring at this walk-around wine tasting event from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., June 21, at Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens in Santa Rosa. There will be wine seminars, food trucks, themed wine lounges and a beer garden. Early bird ticket pricing ($190 for general admission and $240 for VIP admission, plus fees and sales tax) is available through April 30. A Valentine’s Day sale of $20 off (with promo code 25TOS-VALENTINE) is available through Feb. 17. Purchase tickets on Eventbrite.

Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens, 5007 Fulton Road, Santa Rosa, tasteofsonoma.com

Taste of Napa
Festival Napa Valley’s annual Taste of Napa, its signature celebration of the valley’s food and wine, at The Meritage Resort & Spa in Napa. (David Ortega / Taste of Napa)
Taste of Napa food and wine event
Festival Napa Valley’s annual Taste of Napa, its signature celebration of the valley’s food and wine, at The Meritage Resort & Spa in Napa. (David Ortega / Taste of Napa)

Taste of Napa, July 12

Festival Napa Valley’s annual Taste of Napa, its signature celebration of the valley’s food and wine, will be held from noon to 3 p.m., July 12, at The Meritage Resort & Spa in Napa. The event will include offerings from Napa Valley wineries, breweries, restaurants and chefs, plus live music and activities. Early Bird tickets are $125 per guest and are on sale now. A limited number of Reserve Tasting Salon tickets are available for $295. The Reserve Tasting Salon includes early access at 11 a.m. as well as exclusive wine tastings in a private setting. Purchase tickets online.

Taste of Napa is part of Festival Napa Valley’s Summer Season, which takes place at venues throughout Napa Valley, July 5-20. A full lineup of events will be announced in March.

The Meritage Resort & Spa, 875 Bordeaux Way, Napa, festivalnapavalley.org

Food and Wine Events in Sonoma and Napa
Ellen Cavalli (right) serves apple cider to Joshua Crawford (left), from Livermore, and Dana Cappelloni from Healdsburg at the 45th Gravenstein Apple Fair. The annual fair this year will be held from Aug. 9-10 at Ragle Ranch Park in Sebastopol. (Will Bucquoy/For The Press Democrat)

Gravenstein Apple Fair, Aug. 9-10

The 52nd annual Gravenstein Apple Fair, Sebastopol’s beloved, long-running festival celebrating all things Gravenstein, will be held from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Aug. 9-10, Ragle Ranch Regional Park in Sebastopol. In addition to the famed apple in all its forms (cider, sauce, pie and more), there will be a number of north bay food vendors offering farm-fresh meals, snacks and sweet treats. There will also be live music, children’s activities and contests, such as apple pie baking, apple juggling and caramel apple eating challenges. Stay tuned for more info on tickets.

Ragle Ranch Park, 500 Ragle Road, Sebastopol, 707-495-5544, gravensteinapplefair.com

Blue Note Jazz Festival’s Black Radio Experience, Aug. 29-31

Last year, Napa’s Blue Note Jazz Festival introduced The Black Radio Experience, in lieu of the annual jazz festival. The three-day festival in 2024, held at The Meritage Resort & Spa in Napa, featured artist-in-residence and Grammy award winner Robert Glasper along with headliners John Legend, Jill Scott and Andre 3000. Live music was accompanied by a variety of food and drink options, plus after parties.

The Black Radio Experience will return for Labor Day weekend at the The Meritage Resort & Spa. Robert Glasper will return for the festival, and the full lineup will be announced in April. Find updates and ticket information at bluenotejazz.com/black-radio-experience.

The Meritage Resort & Spa, 875 Bordeaux Way, Napa, meritageresort.com, bluenotejazz.com

Sonoma County Harvest Fair Grand Tasting, Oct. 11

A local favorite since 1975, this event introduces attendees to new favorite wines to add to their collection. The event includes professional food and wine competitions, as well as an amateur wine competition. Find more information and tickets, when they become available in May, at harvestfair.org.

Sonoma County Fairgrounds, 1350 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa, 707-545-4203, harvestfair.org

Dana Rebmann, Ana Fingerson and Maci Martell contributed to this article.

As Local Couple Restored Their Historic Healdsburg Home, They Uncovered Traces of Its Colorful Past

“The more we peeled back the layers, the more we wanted to know about the house,” says Corey Rawdon of the home he shares with his husband, Noah Jeppson, and their dog, Bash. Pictured is the transformed kitchen with a customizable, vintage-style message board. (Eileen Roche)

When Noah Jeppson showed his husband Corey Rawdon a listing for a historic, Gothic-style Victorian in downtown Healdsburg near the plaza, Corey’s response was immediate, but not in the way that Noah had hoped.

“Oh, it was a hard pass,” Corey remembers, laughing. This was in September 2020, and the couple, who were living in Tahoe, wanted to move closer to San Francisco for work — and to put down some small-town roots in the hope of starting a family together.

“I knew Noah was going to fall in love with it though,” says Corey. “It had the walkability, it had the charm. It was a project we could put our own imagination into, to create something.”

Corey, a marketing executive, and Noah, an experiential graphic designer, had renovated several homes together in the past and knew the draw of bringing an older home into the present.

“When you’re in an old house, you realize you’re the caretaker of the house and you want to do what you can to preserve it, to understand the stories and put together the story of the house,” says Noah.

“The more we peeled back the layers, the more we wanted to know about the house,” says Corey Rawdon of the home he shares with his husband, Noah Jeppson, and their dog, Bash. Pictured is the transformed kitchen with a customizable, vintage-style message board. (Eileen Roche)
“The more we peeled back the layers, the more we wanted to know about the house,” says Corey Rawdon of the Healdsburg home he shares with his husband, Noah Jeppson, and their dog, Bash. Pictured is the transformed kitchen with a customizable, vintage-style message board. (Eileen Roche)
Though each room of the home has a different color palette, the tones echo throughout the space, from the downstairs bath to the upstairs hallway (pictured). (Eileen Roche)
Though each room of the home has a different color palette, the tones echo throughout the space, from the downstairs bath to the upstairs hallway (pictured). (Eileen Roche)

The home had been built in 1884 by one of Healdsburg’s earliest residents, a German immigrant who owned a bar and later served the town as fire chief and mayor. After the owner raised his family, the home had been used as a boarding house and apartments. Though it was in good structural condition, much of the Victorian character had been lost over time.

“Every family that had lived in this house had done something different and made it their own, so we weren’t afraid to do that as well… We wanted to bring back the warmth and the color and the joy,” says Noah.

The couple kept the floor plan intact with separate formal rooms for dining and socializing, but wanted to layer in color and functionality, including a laundry room, a full-size bath downstairs and a new wall of cabinets in the kitchen.

“We drew inspiration from the house itself and what would’ve occurred during the time it was built — having a drawing room, a formal front parlor. But then we wanted to create space for the future, first and foremost for family,” says Corey.

The couple’s formal front parlor, with vivid colors, vintage furniture and artwork from the Haitian painter Fritz Merise. (Eileen Roche)
The couple’s formal front parlor, with vivid colors, vintage furniture and artwork from the Haitian painter Fritz Merise. (Eileen Roche)

As they restored the home, the couple uncovered traces of the past that helped them understand its history. Behind an existing section of wall, Noah found a school slate used by an early resident who became the town’s first high school graduate. Elsewhere, he found the written signatures of the builders scrawled on walls, old newspapers used as insulation, hand-forged nails — and best of all, a previously boarded-up hidden passageway.

“Noah cannot resist the opportunity to explore,” says Corey. “I was on the phone with him, and he was showing me a section of the wall in the dining room, pushing and tapping on it, and then he said, ‘I’ll call you back. I’m going to get a sledgehammer.’ So he goes and gets the sledgehammer and knocks a hole in the wall, and it just keeps going back into a void.”

“Of course that was just like another invitation to keep exploring some more,” laughs Noah. Later, the couple enlarged the hole and turned it into a passageway connecting the formal front parlor to the dining room, which they use for guests.

Historic Healdsburg home
The hidden passage from the parlor to the dining room, which Noah uncovered while tapping around on the walls one day. (Eileen Roche)

Painting and decorating the space was an opportunity to layer in more historical perspective. Corey chose a bold trio of colors — wall, trim, ceiling — to define each room, a look that he and Noah call “Victorian Pop.” Each room is meant to pop on its own, explains Corey, but some colors become touchpoints that echo throughout the home for continuity. The warm rose-tan in the living room is repeated on the ceiling of the upstairs hall, for example, and the slate-brown window trim reappears in a bedroom. It’s a vivid, design-forward approach to color.

“‘Fortune favors the bold’ is a saying I’ve always lived my life by,” says Corey. “It’s only color. If it doesn’t work, you can always paint over it.”

Noah focused on the home’s decor, sourcing historic furniture, art, and architectural details on Craigslist and at local antique stores. They each had a veto authority over the other’s choices.

“But we didn’t allow each other to say, ‘I kind of like it but I wish it were something different,’” explains Corey. “It was either ‘that’s a no’ — or you had to let the other person run with it. But in allowing ourselves that freedom, we were able to work together almost without trying to. It just naturally happened.”

Historic Healdsburg home
A vintage telephone doubles as a plant stand in the historic Healdsburg home. (Eileen Roche)
Noah and Corey’s casual front living room, with whimsical artwork by Danish designer Bjørn Wiinblad. (Eileen Roche)
Noah and Corey’s casual front living room, with whimsical artwork by Danish designer Bjørn Wiinblad. (Eileen Roche)

For the past few years, all of the couple’s energy and time has been poured into the house and its many needs. “So it’s like, OK, this year for Christmas, we’re giving each other an antique mantel and tile for the kitchen,” says Noah.

Corey, who grew up in Tennessee, contributed some family heirlooms — his grandmother’s bell, which sits on the table in the formal parlor, a sprig of cotton he picked in Tennessee on the mantle, and a wagon-wheel light in the small outbuilding that the couple use as a shared office.

Neighbors and friends often remark that the home the couple has created together feels a bit like a museum. “And we’re like, sure, it is. But it’s the everyday museum,” says Corey. “The look is highly curated and feels special, but it’s still approachable, and you can go up and touch everything. You can live in it. You can use it. It’s not just for looks.”

Historic Healdsburg home
Noah Jeppson in the office of the historic Victorian home he shares with his husband, Corey, in Healdsburg. (Eileen Roche)
Historic Healdsburg home
Noah preserved all of the historic finds from the renovation, including a school slate and a scrap of wallpaper, which inspired some of the Healdsburg home’s paint colors. (Eileen Roche)

Corey and Noah are now turning their attention to deepening their roots in the community. They’ve built a little free library on the corner of their lot and are currently finishing a renovation of their front garden, creating a space where they can chat with neighbors and their dog, Bash, can play. They both volunteer with the Healdsburg Museum & Historical Society, and Corey now serves on the board of the group. And last summer, they were the host family for a college baseball player who was spending the summer in Sonoma County as a member of the Healdsburg Prune Packers baseball team.

They say they are looking forward to becoming even more a part of the fabric of the town and their neighborhood in their next chapter of life. “Raising kids takes a village,” says Corey. “Part of moving here was to find and build our own community, to have that village so that when we have kids, we have that support system.”

They’ve named their home the Heartwood House, a name they picked in honor of the prime local redwood used in its construction back in the 1880s. But beyond that, the couple say that the name Heartwood House has come to embody a spirit of warmth and community.

“We do just have a lot of heart put into our home,” says Corey. “We’ve found new meaning in this old house.”

How to Spend A Perfect Day in Sonoma

Sunflower Caffé in Sonoma has outdoor seating in front of the restaurant and on a backside patio. (Sunflower Caffe)

Sonoma, with its rich history, scenic landscapes, and renowned food and wine culture, offers a wealth of experiences for all types of visitors. Whether you’re drawn to its picturesque plaza, surrounding vineyards or delightful dining scene, there’s no shortage of things to see, do and taste. To make the most of your time in this charming town, we’ve rounded up a few of the must-visit spots that will make for a perfect, laid-back day in Sonoma.

Sonoma Plaza makes everyone feel as if it’s their place. Designed by General Mariano Vallejo in 1835, it’s home to City Hall, a duck pond, rose garden and plenty of benches for prime people-watching. Start the day with espresso, waffles and mimosas at Sunflower Caffè (421 First St. W.), a sunny gathering spot right on the park that understands breakfast is the most important meal of the day. After, wander past the plaza’s Sebastiani Theatre (476 First St. E.) to check out what’s playing — the venue hosts both independent movies and occasional live shows.

Outside dining table at Sunflower Caffe in Sonoma. (Sonoma County Tourism)
Outside dining table at Sunflower Caffe in Sonoma. (Sonoma County Tourism)
Berry granola waffles from Sunflower Caffe in Sonoma. (Sunflower Caffe)
Berry granola waffles from Sunflower Caffe in Sonoma. (Sunflower Caffe)
The Buena Vista Winery tasting room in Sonoma. (Sonoma County Toursim)
The Buena Vista Winery tasting room in Sonoma. (Sonoma County Toursim)

A short drive away, raise a glass to Wine Country history at Buena Vista Winery (18000 Old Winery Road), in a tasting room that dates to 1857. The theatrical light-and-sound show at the winery’s Wine Tool Museum details early local history and stories of Buena Vista’s eccentric founder, Agoston Haraszthy.

Haraszthy’s historical tales continue at nearby Bartholomew Estate Winery (1000 Vineyard Lane). This was originally part of the same estate as Buena Vista, and guests are encouraged to wander the property just as the self-proclaimed “Count of Buena Vista” might have done. At Bartholomew Estate, you can opt for a guided forest bathing experience or escape solo on more than three miles of trail before sitting down to taste wines and nibble on marinated olives, pickled veggies, baba ganoush and more from Sonoma’s Spread Kitchen.

Wine tasting at Bartholomew Estate Vineyards and Winery in Sonoma. (Steven Krause)
Wine tasting at Bartholomew Estate Vineyards and Winery in Sonoma. (Steven Krause)
Crispy rice with scallion-ginger from Valley Bar + Bottle on the Sonoma square. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Crispy rice with scallion-ginger from Valley Bar + Bottle on the Sonoma square. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Flavors of the season aren’t limited to wine. In their smart tasting room a short drive from downtown, Hanson of Sonoma (22985 Burndale Road) mixes warm boozy delights like hot chocolate made with organic espresso vodka. It’s hard not to love, especially on a chilly afternoon. For a decadent splurge, pair vodka martinis with Thomas Keller’s Regiis Ova caviar.

Back at the plaza, reserve ahead at Valley (487 First St. W.) for a locally inspired, farm-to-table dinner and thoughtful, low-intervention wines. The crispy rice with ginger and scallions, and a custardy boiled egg with spicy, umami-laden XO sauce are standouts among an ever-changing lineup. Interesting visiting chef collaborations and special events happen throughout the year.

With so much to see and do in the city of Sonoma, it’s no surprise national outlets often sing its praises. Sonoma has been ranked the No. 1 U.S. city for luxury on a budget, the top place to elope in the country and one of the most timeless towns in California.

Stella Opens in Kenwood March 1

Malfadine Fra’Diavolo, ribbon-shaped pastas with sughetto di pomodoro, calabrian chili and Pecorino Romano from Stella in Kenwood. (Stella)

After 15 months of anticipation, the Glen Ellen Star team has announced that their second restaurant, Stella, will open March 1.

The Cal-meets-Ital restaurant will lean heavily on housemade pasta and wood-fired meats at the former Cafe Citti (9049 Sonoma Highway) location. Unlike Glen Ellen Star, there will be no pizza — but there will be a mozzarella bar.

The restaurant is the newest venture for chef Ari Weiswasser, his wife Erin and managing partners Spencer and Ashley Waite. Glen Ellen Star’s chef de cuisine, Bryant Minuche, will lead the Stella kitchen.

Stella in Kenwood
Lumache pasta with aji amarillo pesto, chanterelles, puffed sorghum from Stella in Kenwood. (Stella)

The opening menu lists seven types of fresh pasta ($24-$31), including bucatini cacio e pepe, lobster ravioli, lumache with aji amarillo pesto (a vegan cashew version is also available) along with tagliatelle with prosciutto and spicy mafaldine (a ribbon-shaped pasta). Entrées include a Duroc pork chop with lemon caper butter sauce ($42), Snake River Farms bavette steak ($45) and whole grilled Daurado fish.

Italian mozzarella and burrata dishes — aka the mozzarella bar — include burrata with brown butter walnuts and 12-year aged balsamic vinegar, buffalo mozzarella with anchovy and a farm egg yolk, and mozzarella with artichoke and lemon vinaigrette all served with fettunta (fancy garlic bread).

Stella in Kenwood
Bavette steak from Stella in Kenwood. (Stella)

Cozy Italian desserts like tiramisu, ricotta zeppole (doughnut holes) and chocolate olive oil cake will also be on the menu, but it’s the Baked “Gelaska” with vanilla gelato, raspberry sorbet, sponge cake and torched marshmallow fluff that has us extra excited.

Stella in Kenwood
Zeppole doughnuts with mascarpone and candied fruit from Stella in Kenwood. (Stella)

Wines by the glass or bottle are mainly from Sonoma and Napa, and a handful of low-proof cocktails, including a white Negroni and Stella Spritz, are offered.

The restaurant will include a dining room with a fireplace, chef’s counter seating and a covered outdoor patio. Stella will be open for dinner from 4:30 p.m. daily. Reservations are available at stellakenwood.com.

9049 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-801-8043

Local Wine Industry Couple’s Wedding Showcases What They Love About Sonoma County

The couple were married at Olive Oaks in Sebastopol. (Stephanie Klotz)

On the 10th anniversary of the day they started dating, Heather Delman and Dylan Price celebrated their love with a wedding that perfectly blended their story with the natural beauty of Sonoma County. The couple, who met at Sonoma State University and both work in the wine industry, exchanged vows last May at Olive Oaks in Sebastopol, a private home that hosts events.

“The vineyards in the background were a nod to what we both do,” Heather explains. “And we wanted a place where we could bring our own wine.”

The couple planned a heartfelt, outdoorsy celebration that showcased the friends and family who had shared in their journey.

Sonoma County wedding in Sebastopol
The couple and their bridal party after the ceremony in Sebastopol. Because they both work in the wine industry, they loved that their site had views of nearby vineyards. (Stephanie Klotz)

“I didn’t meet one new person on my wedding day. Everyone was a part of our story,” says Heather. “It’s a big reason why we decided even to have a wedding. This is the only time we can get all of these people in one place together.”

With many guests flying in from the East Coast, where Dylan’s family is from, the couple hoped to share what they love about living in Sonoma County. “We wanted to make an awesome experience and show everyone why we love it so much,” says Heather.

Details reflected the couple’s deep connection to the region. The flowers came from a local farm, and the final look was a bit of a surprise. Heather chose the color palette in advance but allowed the team at the farm to arrange what was freshest and in season. “I was already in my dress when the flowers arrived, and I loved them,” she says.

Sonoma County wedding
The flowers came from a local farm in Santa Rosa, Longer Table Farm. (Stephanie Klotz)
Sonoma County Wedding in Sebastopol
Guests shaded themselves with parasols on the warm May afternoon in Sebastopol. (Stephanie Klotz)

Instead of a traditional tiered cake, the couple opted for seasonal fruit pies as well as cake jars decorated with stickers of their dog, Odin, who also put in an appearance at the wedding.

“He’s essentially our child. We are so obsessed with him. But we were scared to let him loose with that pool,” laughs Heather. The sweets decorated with Odin’s face proved very popular with their guests. “We barely got to taste the desserts,” she says. “They were gone in minutes!”

Instead of a traditional tiered cake, the couple opted for seasonal fruit pies as well as cake jars decorated with stickers of their dog, Odin. (Stephanie Klotz)
Instead of a traditional tiered cake, the couple opted for seasonal fruit pies as well as cake jars decorated with stickers of their dog, Odin. (Stephanie Klotz)
Fruit pies from Hillary Burdick of indie bakery A Little Luster. (Stephanie Klotz)
Fruit pies from Hillary Burdick of indie bakery A Little Luster. (Stephanie Klotz)

Resources

Venue: Olive Oaks, Sebastopol

Photography: Stephanie Klotz Photography

Month-Of Coordination: Detailed Dreams Events

Catering: Sacramento Catering Collective

Florals: Longer Table Farm

Desserts: A Little Luster

DJ: Carl Jay Entertainment

Hair and Makeup: Contour Bridal

Dress Alterations: Carole Kenney Design

Rentals: Encore Events Rentals

Restrooms: The Posh Privy

Transportation: Sonoma Sterling Limousines

Wine: Marine Layer Wines

Mendocino Coast’s Sustainable Cuisine at Harbor House Inn

The historic Harbor House Inn in Elk was built in 1916 and recently updated with a $10 million remodel. Guests can relax on the dinning room deck with stunning views of the sea stacks and their caves. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

When the ocean is your kitchen pantry, nature decides what’s on the menu. And that’s precisely why chef Matthew Kammerer left San Francisco for a slip of a town on the blustery Mendocino coast.

Since 2018, Kammerer’s two-Michelin-starred Harbor House Inn has gained a reputation in haute dining circles for its obsessive sea-to-table ethos. He collects sand, seawater, kelp and lace lichen in a small private cove just steps from the kitchen. Fishermen come to his back door with their daily catch, and Kammerer keeps an Instagram diary of foraged ingredients like nettle and purple cress for curious diners.

Harbor House Inn sits in a remote town of just 208 people, two hours from the closest restaurant supply store, so Kammerer is forced to rely on what’s available from his immediate surroundings. The 10-course menu doesn’t depend on specific ingredients. Instead, it morphs to include the best of what Mother Nature has on hand at any particular moment.

Chef Kammerer collecting kelp for the Harbor House Inn restaurant in Elk. (Benjamin Heath)
Chef Kammerer collecting kelp for the Harbor House Inn restaurant in Elk along the Mendocino coast. (Benjamin Heath)

“Every day is different. Nature is in charge. Nature decides what we cook and how,” Kammerer said. “If I look out the window and it’s really stormy and no one is fishing, there are things we can’t get, so we’re not serving it. If something’s not available, that’s OK.”

As a sustainability champion, Kammerer’s philosophy requires constant pivots — subbing out purple for red urchin, serving Dungeness crab during its short season, adding more produce from the restaurant’s small farm and not wasting anything. Charcoal ash and sand, stems and leaves, ocean salt, fir needles and wild coastal flowers all have a place on the menu.

“It’s our ecosystem on a plate,” he said. And that’s why people worldwide pilgrimage to the 20-seat dining room, perched on a high bluff overlooking the Pacific, for a taste of the wild and unspoiled Mendocino Coast.

A changing environment

Since opening the restaurant in 2018, Kammerer has seen the environment change in noticeable ways — first slowly and then more quickly. Salmon season has been canceled for three years due to perilously low numbers of young fish. “And we may not have one again. The damage has been done,” he said.

Kelp is dying off, abalone is harder to find, fishing seasons are delayed or closed, and beaches are strewed with plastic and other garbage, affecting birds and marine life.

“You just realize that everything is connected and, as a chef, you’re paying attention to these things,” Kammerer said.

The Harbor House Inn in Elk, Mendocino County
The remodeled dinning room at The Harbor House Inn in Elk uses the warmth of redwood found in coastal groves. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Grilled abalone, field mustard and seaweeds from our cove from chef Matt Kammerer at the Harbor House in Elk along the Mendocino coast. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Grilled abalone, field mustard and seaweeds from our cove from chef Matt Kammerer at the Harbor House in Elk. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

In 2020, the Harbor House Inn, which includes 10 guest rooms, was awarded a Michelin Green star for its sustainability efforts and ethical stewardship of the environment.

For Kammerer, that meant eliminating plastic wrap, saving gray water for watering plants, composting and sourcing 90% of the restaurant’s ingredients from Northern California. The electricity on the property is produced from renewable solar and geothermal sources.

It’s not for everyone, and that’s OK

Before launching Harbor House, Kammerer was executive sous chef at San Francisco’s critically acclaimed Saison. But he knew the bustling city, where beautiful food had to be trucked from farms and ranches, wasn’t his ultimate calling.

So the chef spent his days off driving up and down the Pacific coast with a particular rubric for a restaurant he wanted to create — it should be near the coast, with just a handful of rooms for guests to stay, ocean views and the ability to use hyperlocal ingredients from sea and land.

The historic Harbor House Inn in Elk was built in 1916 and recently updated with a  million remodel. Guests can relax on the dinning room deck with stunning views of the sea stacks and their caves. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The historic Harbor House Inn in Elk was built in 1916 and updated in 2018 with a $10 million remodel. Guests can relax on the dinning room deck with stunning views of the sea stacks and their caves. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Ironically, the location he found — the Harbor House — was built in 1916 by the Goodyear Redwood Company to showcase the beauty of redwood from the nearby lumber mill. According to historical accounts, it produced 40,000-50,000 feet of lumber daily at its peak.

At $325 per person for the 10-course experience, dining at Harbor House isn’t for everyone (the abbreviated lunch experience is $150 per person). Though the cost is Michelin-level, the restaurant attracts a different brand of guests compared to other star-studded establishments. It seems to resonate particularly well with those who enjoy geeky deep dives into the minutiae of Kammerer’s painstakingly detailed process.

The food

I am one of those geeky food people intently curious about Kammerer’s single butter-poached Dungeness crab leg wrapped in kombu and baked inside a rock-shaped loaf of ashes and sand.

“Think of it like salt-baking,” explained Kammerer of encrusting seafood inside a salt crust to evenly cook and keep the meat moist.

In a dramatic tableside flourish, the bread “rock” is cut open, the seaweed unfolded and the leg delicately revealed. It is part of a trio of crab dishes that also includes a broth made with the crab carapace, and a finger bowl of body meat in buttery foam topped with tiny edible flowers.

Then there is celery root pasta with uni. The root is blanched, smoke-dried and rehydrated in uni sauce from Fort Bragg red sea urchin. The dish, presented in locally made pottery, is the size of a coaster. It made me weep a little.

Summer squash, green garlic, preserved lemon and fava from chef Matt Kammerer at the Harbor House Inn in Elk along the Mendocino coast. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Summer squash, green garlic, preserved lemon and fava from chef Matt Kammerer at the Harbor House Inn in Elk. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Black cod smoked over Bay Laurel at Harbor House Inn (Photo: Brendan McGuigan)
Black cod smoked over bay laurel at Harbor House Inn in Elk. (Brendan McGuigan)

Black cod from Noyo Harbor in Fort Bragg is cooked using ambient heat above a charcoal grill, then brought to the table in a custom-made wooden box that opens to reveal the thumb-sized white fish bathing in wisps of smoked bay laurel that lend the scent of witchy smudging to the room — begone bad vibes.

A final tableside tea service includes a glass mug of pine needle tea and local honey stirred with a bouquet, and an array of mignardise (bite-sized desserts) — including a candy cap mushroom macaron.

After three hours, which included brilliant wine pairings ($250) and a 1997 Raymond Lelarge Champagne that I savored, it was hard to leave Kammerer’s carefully crafted world of culinary perfection.

That’s the whole point of a proper Michelin meal — to elevate food to a level of artistry rarely found in daily life.

Whether you’re someone who wants to know the exact poaching temperature of the kombu or you’re just punching a Michelin-restaurant bingo card, Harbor House is the essence of Mendocino at this exact moment, from ocean to plate.

Harbor House Inn, 5600 Highway 1, Elk, 707-877-3203, theharborhouseinn.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

How to Spend A Perfect Day in Santa Rosa

As the largest city in Sonoma County, Santa Rosa boasts a wide range of things to do for the whole family, in addition to an impressive dining scene to fit any occasion. With so much to do, see and eat, we’ve narrowed down some quintessential spots for an effortless, perfect day in Santa Rosa.

Gazing into the breakfast pastry case at Marla Bakery (208 Davis St.), it’s clear tough decisions will have to be made. A savory caramelized onion-cheddar scone might be easier to nibble while wandering nearby Railroad Square, but the sticky buns also beckon. Maybe today’s the day to go for both.

Marla Bakery
The Crebble: croissant dough rolled in maple sugar and sea salt from Marla SR Bakery and Cafe in Santa Rosa, Nov. 16, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Cast Away Yarn Shop in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square
Cast Away Yarn Shop in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square has walls of colorful yarn for sale, craft supplies and gifts. The shop has been a staple business in the area for over 10 years. Photo taken Wednesday, Nov. 1, 2023. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

Railroad Square is brimming with inspiration — you just have to be in the right mood to see it. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the neighborhood’s nooks and crannies offer up vintage vinyl and shoes and what’s said to be one of the largest yarn stores in the country.

Hop back in the car for a nostalgic journey with Snoopy and the Peanuts gang at the Charles M. Schulz Museum (2301 Hardies Lane). Watch a timeless animated special in the theater, then seek firmer footing and a moment of calm in Snoopy’s outdoor labyrinth.

Charles M. Schulz Museum in Santa Rosa
Paloma, 6, and Fernando Lopez, 4, of Healdsburg celebrated the 20th anniversary of The Charles M. Schulz Museum in Santa Rosa, Monday, Aug. 15, 2022. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
La Churroteka food truck at Mitote Food Park
Churros from La Churroteka food truck at Mitote Food Park in Santa Rosa’s Roseland neighborhood. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Further south in the Roseland neighborhood, the food trucks at Mitote Food Park (100 Sebastopol Road) offer up some of the best Mexican eats in Sonoma County. For lunch, feast on carnitas tlayuda at Antojitos Victoria or fish tacos at Pezcow. A stop at La Churroteka for a churro filled with chocolate is a must.

At the mountaintop Coursey Graves Estate Winery (6860 Serenity Way), just east of the city in Bennett Valley, unwind with a Bordeaux blend while taking in panoramic views of the Monet-inspired lily ponds and gardens. There’s even a Monet-style arched footbridge.

Coursey Graves Estate Winery in Santa Rosa. (Coursey Graves Estate Winery)
Coursey Graves Estate Winery in Santa Rosa. (Coursey Graves Estate Winery)
Breads & Spreads at Monti's in the renovated Montgomery Village space in Santa Rosa. (Monti's)
Breads & Spreads at Monti’s in the renovated Montgomery Village space in Santa Rosa. (Monti’s)

You might feel as though you’ve traveled the world by the time you land back in town at Monti’s (714 Village Court), which reopened in the fall of 2024 after a major renovation. Spreads & Bread is fun to order with hummus, sweet and spicy eggplant, whipped beet feta and za’atar flatbread to share.

Looking for more to do in the bustling city of Santa Rosa? Check out our dining editor’s favorite, secret Santa Rosa restaurants, or the best places for wine tasting downtown. For something off the beaten path to do with a partner, we’ve also rounded up a dozen fun and unique date ideas in Santa Rosa.

A Winter Food Retreat to the Sonoma and Mendocino Coast

Farm Beef Burger with Fries and a beer for a casual meal at sunset on the back deck of the Sea Ranch Lodge Restaurant Friday, February 21, 2025, on the northern Sonoma coast. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Winter coastal travelers are a hearty bunch. Between November and March, Sonoma and Mendocino’s wind-swept coasts are often blustery, rainy, cold and generally perfect for sitting around a fire. And for a certain kind of tourist, that’s not a bad thing. Crowds are mostly nonexistent, traffic is light, the ocean churns with spectacular fury, and it’s peak mushroom and Dungeness crab season. Personally, it’s my favorite time to get away.

I recently spent a long weekend traveling from Santa Rosa to Mendocino, with stops in Sea Ranch, Gualala, Stewart’s Point and Elk. And while there are many excellent restaurants along the route, my goal was to try some less-charted spots with plenty of local charm. Here are five of my favorite, off-the-beaten-path restaurants you won’t find in the guidebooks.

Sea Ranch Lodge, Sea Ranch

The remodeled Sea Ranch Lodge Restaurant main dining room with sunset seating Friday, February 21, 2025, on the northern Sonoma coast. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The remodeled Sea Ranch Lodge Restaurant main dining room with sunset seating Friday, February 21, 2025, on the northern Sonoma coast. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Sonoma Coast food
Spaghetti with Dungeness Crab, chili flake, lemon, & mint from the Sea Ranch Lodge restaurant Friday, February 21, 2025, on the northern Sonoma coast. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The weathered gray redwood homes of Sea Ranch are about being in harmony with the natural elements and the rugged coastal landscape.

The iconic community of 2,200 homes located 65 miles north of Santa Rosa centers around the Lodge, which underwent a radical overhaul in 2018 to embrace its groundbreaking 1960s design aesthetic. After languishing for years, the redesigned Lodge and its guest rooms are stunning, midcentury modern spaces with gas fireplaces, breathtaking views of the nearby Pacific and some of the best whale-watching on the coast.

The restaurant, now overseen by chef Darren McRonald (formerly of Pullman Kitchen in Santa Rosa), is starting to find its groove after the pandemic, with new spring and summer menus on the horizon. It’s worth stopping by for an early dinner to enjoy a sunset over the ocean, well-made cocktails and seasonal dishes, including a hearty bowl of Dungeness crab ($42) with spaghetti noodles, spicy lemon, olive oil and mint. We also enjoyed Braised Short Ribs ($44) with garlic mashed potatoes, carrots, tomatoes and perfectly braised beef.

Don’t miss the Apple Crisp ($16), a buttery bread pudding with plenty of fruit if it’s available.

Reservations recommended. 60 Sea Walk Drive, Sea Ranch, thesearanchlodge.com

Gualala Seafood Shack

Sonoma Coast food
Fish tacos from the Gualala Seafood Shack. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

You don’t have to go through a lumber yard to get to this hidden fish taco shop, but you certainly should. Hidden along the Coast Highway, just past the True Value Hardware and piles of lumber, is the Seafood Shack, also known as The Shack. The smell of French fries and fried fish will accost you upon entering. When you leave, you will smell like French fries and fried fish for hours, a sign of a good fish taco shack. Baja rockfish tacos ($6.75) are what you want, either fried or grilled (tip: get both). They’re massive handfuls of local fish, cabbage, pico de gallo and chipotle aioli piled into a corn tortilla. These messy monsters are worth the dry-cleaning bill. Also delish is the Dungeness Melt ($24) on a soft roll with melty cheese, mayo and a whole lot of sassy-spicy crab.

38820 S Highway 1, Unit 104, Gualala, gualalaseafoodshack.com

Twofish Baking, Stewarts Point Store, Stewarts Point

Sonoma Coast food
Margaret Smith cuts a tray of Window Pane pastry at the Twofish Baking Co. at the Stewarts Point General Store Friday, July 19, 2024, near Sea Ranch. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Raspberry Window Panes from the Twofish Baking Co. at the Stewarts Point General Store Friday, July 19, 2024, near Sea Ranch. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Raspberry Window Panes from the Twofish Baking Co. at the Stewarts Point General Store Friday, July 19, 2024, near Sea Ranch. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

According to my mother, we had to be there before 8:30 a.m. or they would be out of sticky buns for the day. Elbows sharpened, I was willing to push small children from my path, should it come to that. Fortunately, when we showed up at 8:45 a.m., there were still plenty of sticky buns, morning buns, muffins, scones and other sugary breakfast carbohydrates left. The sticky buns are delightful, but I think violence would be ill-advised. You can eat at a community counter inside the charming Stewart’s Point Store or take your sweets to go.

32000 Highway 1, Stewarts Point, twofishbaking.com

Gnar Bar, Mendocino

Mendocino Coast food
Poke bowl at Gnar Bar on the Mendocino coast. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

With just a handful of countertop seats, Gnar Bar is all about fat bowls of tonkatsu, miso and vegetarian broth with noodles, bok choy, mushrooms and a jammy egg. It’s the perfect winter warmer if you’re toddling around Mendocino (average temperature 55 degrees). While you’re there, check out the fried chicken sandwiches, fresh sushi rolls, pot stickers, shumai, chicken katsu, Spam musubi, umami fries and poke bowls. This is where the cool kids eat.

10450 Lansing St., Mendocino, gnarbar707.com

Greenwood Restaurant, Elk

Mendocino Coast food
Trout tartare at Greenwood Restaurant in Elk. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Maine lobster ravioli at the Greenwood restaurant in Elk. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Maine lobster ravioli at the Greenwood restaurant in Elk. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Located inside the Sacred Rock Inn grounds, this remote restaurant is worth a stop, especially if you’re staying at the inn. Chef Ryan Seal is an under-the-radar talent who shouldn’t be. After stints at Calistoga Ranch, Solage, Morimoto and SPQR in San Francisco, as well as Round Pond Estate, he’s mostly a one-man show at this recently-renovated inn (he also delivered our breakfast and runs the more casual Elk House on the property). Steelhead Trout Tartare ($24) with buttermilk beurre blanc, green apple and smoked trout roe was luxurious, beautifully plated and elevated my expectations of what tartare can be. Also excellent: Uni Carbonara ($32) with Fort Braff sea urchin sauce, squid ink bucatini and trout roe and Maine lobster ravioli ($34) with fromage blanc, brown butter crumble and sweet pickled onion. Reservations required.

5926 Highway 1, Elk, sacredrockinn.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Martinelli Winery & Vineyards Pours a Taste of History in Windsor

Unless it’s raining, the expansive terrace is the place to be at Martinelli Winery & Vineyards in Windsor. (Martinelli Winery & Vineyards)

Sonoma County is rich in multigenerational wineries — the region is home to more than 20 winegrowers who’ve been farming their family’s original land for a century or longer — and that seems to be especially true in the Russian River Valley.

In the late 19th century, Martinelli Vineyards & Winery’s founders began planting Zinfandel on the area’s hillsides, joining a wave of Italian immigrants who settled in the area around that time. Today, the winery is run by the family’s fourth and fifth generations.

The story

Martinelli’s tale begins in the 1880s with teenagers Giuseppe Martinelli and Luisa Vellutini, who eloped from their village in Tuscany and made their way to California. Giuseppe had been a winemaker in Italy, and he knew his way around vineyards, so he soon landed a job planting vines for a local farmer.

Two years later, with ambitions of starting a family winery, Giuseppe used the money he earned to buy a hillside property in the Russian River Valley. Planting Zinfandel and Muscat of Alexandria on a 60-degree slope was no easy task, but they stubbornly persevered. (The vineyard later became known as Jackass Hill, because only a jackass would plant vines on that kind of terrain. Even now, the site remains Sonoma County’s steepest non-terraced vineyard.)

Martinelli Winery & Vineyards
Lee Martinelli tools around in a tractor on Jackass Hill in Forestville, Thursday, Aug. 3, 2017. One of the steepest hills to pick wine grapes in Sonoma County, the Zinfandel vines (with muscat, too) were planted in the 1890s. The only way to disc or get the fruit down the hill is with the tractor. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Martinelli Winery & Vineyards
Lee Martinelli looks over one of the oldest zinfandel vines planted on Jackass Hill in Forestville, Thursday, Aug. 3, 2017. One of the steepest hills to pick wine grapes in Sonoma County the land has been in the Martinelli family for generations. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

After Giuseppe’s death in 1918, the founder’s 12-year-old son Leno took over the vineyard and continued farming it for 75 years. Leno’s son Lee Sr. took the baton from his father in the early 1990s, and he’s still farming Jackass Hill to this day — despite being in his mid-80s.

Though the Martinellis had always made wine for home consumption, they didn’t produce a commercial bottling until 1986. That’s when they converted an old hop kiln and barn on Windsor’s River Road into a winery and tasting room.

Martinelli now farms 470 acres of estate vineyards — including Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and more — in the Russian River Valley, along with the Fort Ross-Seaview and Green Valley appellations. Grapegrowers at their core, the Martinellis sell the vast majority of their grapes to other wineries, including Benovia, Patz & Hall and Gary Farrell.

The vibe

It’s hard to miss Martinelli’s big red barn as you’re driving along River Road. The tasting room has a comfortable vintage feel, with lots of dark wood, black-and-white family photos on the walls and an old-school tasting bar. Unless it’s raining, the expansive terrace is the place to be. Overlooking the barn below and flanked by vines, it’s a pretty, shaded spot with lots of tables and lounge seating.

Unless it’s raining, the expansive terrace is the place to be at Martinelli Winery & Vineyards in Windsor. (Martinelli Winery & Vineyards)
Unless it’s raining, the expansive terrace is the place to be at Martinelli Winery & Vineyards in Windsor. (Martinelli Winery & Vineyards)
Martinelli Winery
Zinfandel put Martinelli Winery & Vineyards on the map, but Burgundian grapes are now stars of the show. (Martinelli Winery & Vineyards)

On the palate

Zinfandel put Martinelli on the map, but these days the winery is more of a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay house. Fittingly for a family of growers, the Martinelli approach is hands on in the vineyards and low key in the cellar.

Among the Russian River estate wines, I’m a fan of the 2020 Lolita Ranch Chardonnay ($62) with its green-apple-meets-lemon pie appeal. The 2022 Zio Tony Ranch Pinot Noir ($85) is a juicy number that’s rich with red and black fruit flavors. Don’t leave without sampling the charming 2023 Guiseppe & Luisa Zinfandel ($58).

Tasting options include the estate-focused Terrace Tasting ($50); the Wine & Cheese Experience ($75), which pairs single-vineyard wines with Sonoma County cheeses; and the Collector’s Flight ($125) of highly rated, limited-edition wines.

Beyond the bottle

Just a quick drive from the winery is another classic: Healdsburger. This humble burger stand on Healdsburg Avenue serves up brioche buns of beefy goodness starting at $11.50 for the basic “Big Daddy” on up to $18 for the “Racer 5” topped with beer-sauteed mushrooms. Be sure to add the fresh-cut fries.

Martinelli Winery & Vineyards, 3360 River Road, Windsor. 707-525-0570, martinelliwinery.com

Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.