Winter coastal travelers are a hearty bunch. Between November and March, Sonoma and Mendocino’s wind-swept coasts are often blustery, rainy, cold and generally perfect for sitting around a fire. And for a certain kind of tourist, that’s not a bad thing. Crowds are mostly nonexistent, traffic is light, the ocean churns with spectacular fury, and it’s peak mushroom and Dungeness crab season. Personally, it’s my favorite time to get away.
I recently spent a long weekend traveling from Santa Rosa to Mendocino, with stops in Sea Ranch, Gualala, Stewart’s Point and Elk. And while there are many excellent restaurants along the route, my goal was to try some less-charted spots with plenty of local charm. Here are five of my favorite, off-the-beaten-path restaurants you won’t find in the guidebooks.
Sea Ranch Lodge, Sea Ranch
The weathered gray redwood homes of Sea Ranch are about being in harmony with the natural elements and the rugged coastal landscape.
The iconic community of 2,200 homes located 65 miles north of Santa Rosa centers around the Lodge, which underwent a radical overhaul in 2018 to embrace its groundbreaking 1960s design aesthetic. After languishing for years, the redesigned Lodge and its guest rooms are stunning, midcentury modern spaces with gas fireplaces, breathtaking views of the nearby Pacific and some of the best whale-watching on the coast.
The restaurant, now overseen by chef Darren McRonald (formerly of Pullman Kitchen in Santa Rosa), is starting to find its groove after the pandemic, with new spring and summer menus on the horizon. It’s worth stopping by for an early dinner to enjoy a sunset over the ocean, well-made cocktails and seasonal dishes, including a hearty bowl of Dungeness crab ($42) with spaghetti noodles, spicy lemon, olive oil and mint. We also enjoyed Braised Short Ribs ($44) with garlic mashed potatoes, carrots, tomatoes and perfectly braised beef.
Don’t miss the Apple Crisp ($16), a buttery bread pudding with plenty of fruit if it’s available.
Reservations recommended. 60 Sea Walk Drive, Sea Ranch, thesearanchlodge.com
Gualala Seafood Shack
You don’t have to go through a lumber yard to get to this hidden fish taco shop, but you certainly should. Hidden along the Coast Highway, just past the True Value Hardware and piles of lumber, is the Seafood Shack, also known as The Shack. The smell of French fries and fried fish will accost you upon entering. When you leave, you will smell like French fries and fried fish for hours, a sign of a good fish taco shack. Baja rockfish tacos ($6.75) are what you want, either fried or grilled (tip: get both). They’re massive handfuls of local fish, cabbage, pico de gallo and chipotle aioli piled into a corn tortilla. These messy monsters are worth the dry-cleaning bill. Also delish is the Dungeness Melt ($24) on a soft roll with melty cheese, mayo and a whole lot of sassy-spicy crab.
38820 S Highway 1, Unit 104, Gualala, gualalaseafoodshack.com
Twofish Baking, Stewarts Point Store, Stewarts Point
According to my mother, we had to be there before 8:30 a.m. or they would be out of sticky buns for the day. Elbows sharpened, I was willing to push small children from my path, should it come to that. Fortunately, when we showed up at 8:45 a.m., there were still plenty of sticky buns, morning buns, muffins, scones and other sugary breakfast carbohydrates left. The sticky buns are delightful, but I think violence would be ill-advised. You can eat at a community counter inside the charming Stewart’s Point Store or take your sweets to go.
32000 Highway 1, Stewarts Point, twofishbaking.com
Gnar Bar, Mendocino
With just a handful of countertop seats, Gnar Bar is all about fat bowls of tonkatsu, miso and vegetarian broth with noodles, bok choy, mushrooms and a jammy egg. It’s the perfect winter warmer if you’re toddling around Mendocino (average temperature 55 degrees). While you’re there, check out the fried chicken sandwiches, fresh sushi rolls, pot stickers, shumai, chicken katsu, Spam musubi, umami fries and poke bowls. This is where the cool kids eat.
10450 Lansing St., Mendocino, gnarbar707.com
Greenwood Restaurant, Elk
Located inside the Sacred Rock Inn grounds, this remote restaurant is worth a stop, especially if you’re staying at the inn. Chef Ryan Seal is an under-the-radar talent who shouldn’t be. After stints at Calistoga Ranch, Solage, Morimoto and SPQR in San Francisco, as well as Round Pond Estate, he’s mostly a one-man show at this recently-renovated inn (he also delivered our breakfast and runs the more casual Elk House on the property). Steelhead Trout Tartare ($24) with buttermilk beurre blanc, green apple and smoked trout roe was luxurious, beautifully plated and elevated my expectations of what tartare can be. Also excellent: Uni Carbonara ($32) with Fort Braff sea urchin sauce, squid ink bucatini and trout roe and Maine lobster ravioli ($34) with fromage blanc, brown butter crumble and sweet pickled onion. Reservations required.
5926 Highway 1, Elk, sacredrockinn.com
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.