By now, word has spread that Monti’s restaurant in Montgomery Village has reopened after a summer remodel and menu update. Gone is the rotisserie; many dishes have been reimagined or sent to the great menu in the sky. But change is good, and many new Mediterranean-inspired dishes are excellent.
Starters like Spreads & Bread ($19) are a dipper’s delight with creamy hummus, whipped beet feta, sweet and spicy eggplant and warm, zaatar-seasoned flatbread. Terri’s Favorite Little Neck Clams ($18) has been one of the most talked about dishes, infused with garlic butter and charred lemon. Spring for the Smoked Lamb Ribs ($18) with sticky pomegranate barbecue sauce that’s finger-licking good.
Regulars will recognize the Monti’s Cristo ($18) and Lamb Burger ($19). There’s also a new take on the roasted salmon, now served with lemon couscous and pomegranate vinaigrette ($32).
Though the Braised Butter Beans ($12) are quietly listed as a side, the soft-as-silk white beans are infused with plenty of garlic, tomato and herbs with a crispy garlic crust on top. Plan to fight with your tablemates over these.
A broader selection of made-to-order pizzas is a great addition, and you can see the dough being stretched (as well as all the kitchen action) through a new peek-a-boo window in the dining room. It’s entertainment for the whole family or a conversation starter on awkward dates. I loved the sweet-savory combination of Black Mission fig, ham and Cambozola cheese ($24). Housemade pasta is another terrific menu addition. We were especially taken with Short Rib Agnolotti with a kick of fresh horseradish ($28).
Save room for (or just go for dessert first) the Warm Bourbon Toffee Date Cake ($14). A former pastry chef friend at the table said it was one of the best desserts she’d had, infused with cozy autumn spices, sticky toffee, sweet dates and creamy gelato melting into the whole mess.
Well-made (and not stingy on the booze) cocktails are a Stark restaurant staple, and Monti’s has added a few newcomers. Greece Is The Word ($14) isn’t for everyone, but if you like Ouzo, the anise-flavored Greek libation known to take down the strongest of tipplers, you’ll be on board. The tongue-tingling liqueur is cut with lemon, honey and mint — intense flavors that temper the Ouzo.
Removing the dark shutters has brightened the interior, vibing with the rattan lighting and Turkish tiles that bring the restaurant a sunny, Mediterranean atmosphere.
Change has brought a new cohesion to the 20-year-old Santa Rosa restaurant, offering more focus and interest to the Mediterranean-inspired menu. I’ll be back.
Monti’s menu also features many gluten-free and plant-based options. Reservations are highly recommended. Open 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily for indoor and outdoor seating.
714 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 707-568-4404, montismv.com
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.