Page 72 – Sonoma Magazine

Where to Eat Right Now in Sonoma County

January 2024

By Heather Irwin

Dining editor Heather Irwin picks three top spots for dining out in Sonoma County in early 2024. Click through the above gallery for a peek at a few favorite dishes at each restaurant.

Augie’s French

The name of Mark and Terri Starks’ new restaurant tells you a lot about the Santa Rosa French bistro. It’s a cheeky reference to Auguste Escoffier, the 19th century French chef and restaurateur whose distinguished legacy casts a godlike shadow over the culinary community. The esteemed Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur isn’t really a guy I’d want to crack a cold one with. But Augie? He spikes the office party punch with Beaujolais Nouveau and likes to hug things out.

That is to say, Augie’s isn’t about fiddly French food, lifted pinkies, and meticulous plating. It’s about hearty onion soup, braised boeuf Bourguignon with creamy potatoes, and bowls of steaming mussels swimming in creamy Dijon sauce that’s begging to be soaked up with a crusty baguette. Augie’s is a truffle-buttered bear hug of a restaurant where the Champagne starts flowing at 3 p.m. and the skinny fries come in a goldhandled rondeau pan because they can.

To step inside is to leave Santa Rosa behind and enter a timeless Parisian moodscape. The interior of the former Portofino restaurant is long and narrow, with few windows. But the result is a cozy, nest-like atmosphere, with metallic butterfly wallpaper climbing the stairs to a low balcony level, and bulbous gold beehive lights casting a warm glow. A zinc-topped bar and apron-clad servers round out the Gallic vibe. With its welcoming atmosphere, classic-yet-approachable French cuisine, and excellent service, we think both Escoffier and Augie would approve of this new spot.

Mussels & Frites with cider, shallots, and Dijon créme fraîche from Augie’s French Tuesday, November 28, 2023 on Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — Mussels & Frites with cider, shallots, and Dijon créme fraîche from Augie’s French on Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Beef Cheek Bourguignon with classic garni and pommes purée from Augie’s French Tuesday, November 28, 2023 on Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — Beef Cheek Bourguignon with classic garni and pommes purée from Augie’s French on Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Best Bets

Warm red onion “tarte Tatin,” $16: Just yes. A lovely whirl of red onion slices topped with whipped Boursin cheese is the perfect appetizer.

Black truffle butter escargot, $18: Mark Stark is wild about his escargot menu. I am, too. I like escargot simple, with just garlic and butter, but the slightly scary-looking yet absolutely delicious black truffle butter version is my favorite.

Beef cheek bourguignon, $38: This braised beef with vegetables is that unicorn dish that’s homey and satisfying but something far too labor-intensive to make at home. A high point of the meal.

Liberty Farms duck confit, $29: This was the entree that disappeared from our table first. Two meaty legs and thighs with crisp skin and soft, juicy meat that only a confit can produce. Served with roasted figs and a sublime pan sauce.

535 Fourth St., Santa Rosa.707-531-4400, augiesfrench.com

Stellina Alimentari

Many chefs have a thing about porchetta—a boneless pork roast that’s wrapped like a jelly roll, with crispy skin inside and out. I knew I had to get to this new Italian-style cafe and deli, from the owners of nearby Stellina Pronto, as soon as chef Mark Malicki described his porchetta sandwich— served with salsa verde on Della Fattoria rosemary bread, with juices running down your wrists. Heaven.

The sandwich lived up to the hype. Called Il Michelangelo ($18), it comes wrapped neatly in paper and is delivered pronto to whichever lucky seat (there are only about four in the whole place) you’ve grabbed. Other sandwiches come on house-baked schiacciata (think focaccia), like the “La Bellucci” ($16) with grilled artichoke relish, roasted mushrooms, truffle pecorino cream, and mushroom pâté.

A meaty sandwich at Stellina Alimentari in Petaluma. (Emma K Creative) — At Stellina Alimentari in Petaluma. (Emma K Creative)

At Stellina Alimentari in Petaluma. (Emma K Creative)

There are also tasty Italian-style salads, antipasti, and charcuterie boards, along with fried risotto balls with chili aioli. The Panzarotti (little potato cakes with Parmesan, mozzarella, and mint) are also a standout. And seeing a fresh cannoli stuffed with cream arrive at the table next to me? Well, let’s just say that I had my own within minutes.

Before you leave, check out the dried pasta, tinned fish, and other Italian grocery specialties, plus wine and Italian beverages to go.

160 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma. On Instagram @stellinaalimentari.

Marla Bakery

Marla’s Railroad Square neighborhood cafe is bathed in golden light as early morning rays sift through the windows. If you look just right, a single flicker holds on the pastry case, causing their signature crebble (knotted croissant dough sanded with sugar) to glisten fetchingly.

Marla’s is a place to linger with a steaming cup of milky chai and a plate of scones, dark chocolate brownies, and bagels for hours of carbohydrate-filled pleasure. The welcoming bakery is the first retail outlet for Amy Brown and Joe Wolf since they moved to Sonoma County in 2020. The couple operated out of their Windsor bakery through the roughest days of the pandemic, feeding many locked-down pastry lovers with weekly walk-up sales of bagels, coffee, and other breakfast treats.

The Crebble: croissant dough rolled in maple sugar and sea salt from Marla SR Bakery and Cafe in Santa Rosa, Nov. 16, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — The Crebble: croissant dough rolled in maple sugar and sea salt from Marla SR Bakery and Cafe. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Cappuccino and a scone from Marla SR Bakery and Cafe November 16, 2023. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — Cappuccino and a scone from Marla SR Bakery and Cafe. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The former Miracle Plum location has been gently renovated to add comfortable seating and tables and shelving for gourmet grocery items. Baguettes and hearth-baked bread, including sourdough batards and walnut boules dusted with flour, sit on nearby shelves waiting for their crisp crust to be cracked open, revealing a moist, airy crumb.

The bakery also sells coffee beans from Cute Coffee, tea, natural wine, beer, cookies, and baguette sandwiches. You’ll have a hard time choosing, but the welcoming vibe makes you want to return again and again.

208 Davis St., Santa Rosa. marlabakery.com

The Most Interesting Music Club in the Bay Area Is at a Vegan Restaurant in Healdsburg

January 2024

By Matt Villano

Most of the destinations on the back of the official Boygenius 2023 concert tour T-shirt represent the biggest music markets in the country. Los Angeles. Dallas. Chicago. New York. But one of the cities listed is not like the others: Sonoma’s own Healdsburg, population 12,000.

So when the soon-to-be Grammy Award-winning rock trio played an intimate acoustic show at Little Saint restaurant last June, it was no wonder the line snaked four blocks to City Hall.

Yes, you read that right—the concert was upstairs at Little Saint. A vegan restaurant. In Wine Country.

Boygenius fans line up before a sold-out show at Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative) — Boygenius fans line up before last summer’s sold-out show. (Photo by Emma K. Morris)

As the restaurant continues to garner accolades for its plant-based cuisine, the second floor gathering space and part-time prix fixe restaurant has emerged as an unexpected music hotspot as well. Boygenius—singer/songwriters Phoebe Bridgers, Lucy Dacus, and Julien Baker—is just one of the big-name acts to play Little Saint last year. Others on the list have included Rufus Wainwright, Dawes, and Jenny Lewis. Buck Meek (of Big Thief) and Trousdale have already committed for 2024.

The music program is the brainchild of Little Saint co-owner Laurie Ubben and Jonny Fritz, who books and promotes acts under the moniker of Dad Country. Ubben co-founded the Bird School of Music in San Francisco and supports musicians like Bridgers and The Avett Brothers. (Boygenius wrote all the songs from their 2023 album “The Record” in a barn on Ubben’s property on Westside Road.)

Fritz, a guitarist who has recorded four studio albums, prides himself on being able to discuss bookings with just about anyone. “We aren’t really concerned about the numbers,” says Fritz. “We just want to create a really great experience.”

Boygenius plays at Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative) — Boygenius plays Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Photo by Emma K. Morris)

The venue holds about 175 people, and every spot is within 50 feet of the stage. Laurie and her husband Jeff Ubben have invested in a state-of-the-art sound system, so the acoustics are top-notch. A curtain sewn from old tour T-shirts hangs behind the tiny stage.

The vibe is so intimate that many artists ask fans to sit on the floor; this is how the June Boygenius show unfolded, and in May, indie pop band Lucius did three encores from the center of the room while fans sat around them. At the end of many shows, artists mingle with fans at the merch table in back. And Thursday nights are for free live music, no tickets required.

If these small-town touches aren’t appealing enough, Fritz said he aims to make the venue stand out for artists with meals and compensation even when the show is free. Basically, every show is like a house concert. And this vibe has generated quite a buzz in the industry—Fritz said it’s taken one year to book acts he thought would take three years to nab.

“We’re becoming a place that everyone wants to book when they come through San Francisco,” said Fritz, who lives in Los Angeles. “Like the [now closed] Bottletree in Birmingham, or the 9:30 Club in [Washington], D.C. If you got booked at those places, you looked forward to it all tour.”

For Ubben, the goal is simple: to continue to celebrate creativity in all forms. “I like the idea of discovering new music and great food at the same time,” she said.

“If we can normalize this way of nourishing our minds and our souls, I think it can be a wonderful way to get people to think differently about art.”

6 New Napa Valley Restaurants to Try Right Now

January 2024

By Carey Sweet

The Napa Valley dining scene is sizzling with new destination-worthy restaurants. Whether it’s top-notch Italian fare from a three-Michelin-star chef, South American-style steaks or mouthwatering Detroit-style pizza, there’s plenty of exciting food to tickle your tastebuds.

Check out these six sumptuous spots.

Ciccio

If you’ve ever had pasta from three-Michelin-star chef Christopher Kostow, you know they’re not just everyday noodles. This silky stuff is handmade and delicately dressed for finery like melt-in-your-mouth gnudi dumplings stuffed with ricotta, dusted in fennel pollen and bathed in buttery sauce.

You absolutely need a reservation to get a table at the hugely popular trattoria. But it’s well worth any wait for the relaxed but riveting Cal-Italian cuisine, such as a whole mild pepper stuffed with meatballs and chile crisp under a rich “braising sauce” of garlicky marinara boosted with lots of cheese.

If the name sounds familiar, by the way, it’s because the iconic restaurant actually opened a decade ago. Founders Frank and Karen Altamura still own it; they brought in Kostow to reinvent and elevate the experience. Raise the bar he did, and so deliciously — wood-fire roasted beets are rosemary-kissed and upgraded with succulent beef fat, while humble polenta takes a high-end twist, the yellow corn mixed with artisanal mozzarella whey plus scads of butter.

6770 Washington St., Yountville, 707-945-1000, ciccionapavalley.com.

The Lincoln

Launched in July, the American gastropub overlooking the Napa River comes from hospitality veterans Mike LeBlanc and Adam Snyder. Designed like an upscale speakeasy, the look is eye-catching, done with a floor-to-ceiling fireplace, dark wood and brass (bonus: the bar is open until 2 a.m., for specialty cocktails like the Naked and Famous of Vida mezcal, Yellow Chartreuse, Aperol and lime).

The food covers a lot of comfy favorites, dialed up an elegant notch. Check out the deviled eggs topped in bourbon bacon, the sweet-spicy salmon lollipops glazed with sriracha and honey, the belly-buster hash browns smothered in mac ‘n’ cheese and Fresno chiles, and a classic smash burger beckoning with grill-crisped cheddar.

505 Lincoln Ave., Napa, 707-699-2276, thelincolnnapa.com.

Taj Grill

The original Taj opened in Vallejo a decade ago, then owner Lucky Virk debuted a sister eatery in Napa’s Soscol Plaza in August. The North and South Indian food takes an unusual approach, with lots of fresh herbs and spices based on traditional Ayurvedic concepts of “hot and cold elements that are balanced for best health.”

It all boils down to exceptional meats, seafood and vegetables in long-simmered sauces, such as korma, curry, tikka masala and vindaloo, plus bites like chhole bhature, aloo tikki chaat, and an assorted veggie pakora platter tempting with cauliflower, potatoes, onions and mild green chile.

Try something different by ordering signature curry goat in onion sauce, the fish and shrimp simmered in cashew korma sauce, or one of the many vegetarian dishes like paneer tikka masala of the supple, marinated cheese baked with creamy tomato sauce in a clay oven.

701 Lincoln Ave., Napa, 707-927-3634, tajgrillnapa.com.

Entrecot

Restaurateurs Gonzalo Barrado and Antonella Tesio had an ambitious idea with the new Napa riverfront destination. Hailing from Córdoba, Argentina, they wanted to introduce Wine Country diners to their beloved, meat-centric cuisine, like the “entrecote” cut of beef that we know as ribeye.

Here, you get the juicy slab smothered in chimichurri, or with a mouthwatering parrillada platter brimming with a 6 oz. ribeye, skirt steak, pork sausage, blood sausage, criolla sauce and red chimichurri. For exceptional appetizers, golden baked empanadas come stuffed with beef or sweet corn, or you can even make a rich snack of grilled marrow bones and chimichurri sopped with sourdough bread.

670 Main St. Napa, 707-637-4296, entrecotnapa.com.

Mangia Mi

Chef Rebecca White-Keefe and “Wine-O” Kara Keefe opened their original Caribbean Surf Town of Rincon, Puerto Rico in 2016, so why not expand to Calistoga?

White-Keefe, it should be mentioned, was winner of the Food Network’s “Cooks vs. Cons” that same year.

Here, the focus is on solid, tasty Italian fare, of sampler platters brimming with stuffed dates, mini meatballs, housemade sausage and honey ricotta, or small plates like mozzarella stuffed fried pizzetta, or papardelle smothered in all day Bolognese.

Dig into large entrees like baked chicken parmesan, New Haven style pizza, or gooey lasagna, too.

1120 Washington St., Calistoga, 707-341-3348, mangiami.com.

At Croccante Artisan Pizza in Napa. (Croccante Artisan Pizza)

Croccante Artisan Pizza

Chef-owner Hakan Kostek’s uncle had a bakery in a small town in Eastern Turkey, where Kostek learned to make perfect dough. After moving to California, he took a job with Napa’s famous Model Bakery, until he bought his own mobile wood-fired oven and started catering. Now, he crafts distinctive, long-fermented, pan-baked Detroit-style pies, served in his sit-down café.

Start with housemade meatballs and a crisp romaine-kale salad. Then, pile on the pizza. An 8” by 10” Detroit pizza brings thick, pillowy crust topped in all kinds of goodness such as housemade tomato sauce, crumbled sausage, broccolini, house cheese blend, Parmesan and spicy aioli drizzle, or a deep dish combo of housemade white cream sauce, roasted marble potatoes, crispy pancetta, chili flakes, house cheese blend and Parmesan.

976 Pearl St., Napa, 707-222-5017, croccantepizza.com.

Highballs on Tap and Japanese Small Bites at Sebastopol Happy Hour

December 2023

By Heather Irwin

Not all fizzy drinks are created equal.

There are the harsh, choking kinds of fizz from over-carbonated sodas; the lazy fizz of seltzers; the twinkling fizz of good Champagne; and the crushed-velvet fizz of a draft whiskey highball at Sebastopol’s Sushi Kosho.

The drinks, according to Sushi Kosho owner Jake Rand, are made with a high-tech, low-temperature carbonation machine that optimizes the drink’s pH level and temperature (at a very cool 34 degrees). It also measures the optimal ratio of water to whiskey, pours a drink like a draft beer and even offers sage advice on relationships.

OK, that last part isn’t true, but the machine is a piece of bar wizardry that costs a cool $5,000 to install and delivers a drink that tickles your nose with tiny bursting bubbles.

It’s all a bit over the top, but whiskey highballs are as much a craft as they are cocktails in Japan, with bartenders painstakingly carving ice cubes, manually checking temperatures and using the highest quality Japanese whiskey. Even the glass has to be properly chilled. But this is more than just hype. The delicate fizz makes this whiskey highball dangerously easy to drink, and at $10 (during happy hour), it’s a deal.

Whiskey highball at Sushi Kosho. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

Rand has expanded from his beer, wine and sake menu to a full bar with Japanese whiskey and gin, aperitifs and other spirits (rum, vodka, mezcal). From 3 to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday, all whiskey highballs (including a blood orange or ginger version) and spirit-infused sodas are $10. Other house cocktails, like the Tokyo 75 made with Tenjaku gin, black sesame bitters, yuzu and Prosecco or the East Meets Southwest with mezcal, Triple Sec and togarashi salt, range from $12 to $14.

A new menu of small bites in the bar and lounge includes economical edamame and country miso soup ($4), single pieces of nigiri and sashimi for between $3.50 and $7 and handrolls (three for $27). Heavier appetizers including pork belly kimchi, sticky chicken wings and salmon tartar tacos are $12.

Sushi Kosho is at 6750 McKinley St., Sebastopol. 707-827-6373, koshosushi.com

Updated 1950s Bungalow in Sonoma Listed for $949,000. Take a Look

December 2023

By Karen Kizer

Modern updates blend beautifully with the home's vintage design. (Open Homes Photography) — Modern updates blend beautifully with the home’s vintage design. (Open Homes Photography)

An updated 1950s home, just west of the Sonoma Plaza, is listed for $949,000. The home at 158 Church St. has two bedrooms and one bath and every inch of its 896 square feet has been sweetly decorated and tended to, from exquisite styling by listing agent Laura Parker to dual pane windows and a new 7-foot fence.

The modern styling makes the vintage home sing. Charcoal accent walls give focus to the rooms and offers pretty contrast to the caramel colors of the floors and furnishings. This natural palette plus lots of sunlight—thanks to the home’s windows and glass-paned doors—create a sense of spaciousness. Witty touches of color throughout, like a lime green door outside, are pleasing design surprises.

Despite the modern updates of new tiles, appliances and light fixtures, many old-school design elements remain. There are vintage wood floors, built-in shelves, exterior horizontal siding and a front porch. One of the best parts of this home, however, is its proximity to downtown Sonoma — shops, restaurants and tasting rooms at just a 5-minute walk away.

For more information on this property at 158 Church St. in Sonoma, contact listing agent Laura Parker, 650-275-2602, laura.parker@compass.com, Compass Real Estate, 135 W. Napa St., Suite 200, Sonoma, 707-939-9500, compass.com

Where to Go for Late Night Drinks and Bites in Napa

December 2023

By Carey Sweet

At The Lincoln in downtown Napa. (Kristen Loken)

The last time I went barhopping and stayed out past midnight was several years ago – okay, maybe it’s been more than a decade. It’s not just that I’m getting older, but that late nights have long been hard to accomplish in Wine Country. Sidewalks generally roll up early here and nightlife destinations can be hard to find.

Downtown Napa is finally changing that. Some new places are – gasp – open until 2 a.m.

Chispa

The stunning, glittery setting and exotic spirits selection lets us know Napa is truly arrived. Some 80 Tequilas and 40 mezcals showcase boutique, family-owned labels from across Mexico City and tequila-producing villages. There are also a few craft beers (try the Farmer’s Valle Mexican Style Lager brewed with estate grown sushi rice) plus a tight list of international wines (a divine Territorio Cepa La Casa de las Locas Godello from Spain).

Sip: My three friends and I shared four drinks, because it was challenging to choose from the delicious sounding choices curated by bar manager Marco Garcia. The pretty-in-pink Side Eye blossoms with Lalo Blanco tequila, hibiscus, herbaceous Granada Vallet liqueur from Hidalgo, Mexico and lime, while the Scenic Sling beckons with Cimarron Blanco Tequila, fresh lemon, seasonal Silverado Trail strawberries, floral Cocchi Rosa Italian red wine and fresh lemon.

For more mainstream but still invigorating drinks, go for a Highball or El Tesoro Blanco and Ultra carbonated soda water, or the House Margarita of Libélula Joven Tequila, blue agave, orange liqueur and fresh lime.

Nosh: There’s the same “choice challenge” with chef Mac De Chavez’s (formerly of St. Helena’s Charter Oak) intriguing takes on bar bites with accents from his Filipino heritage. So we nibbled on a handful of delights, including crispy, pork stuffed lumpia drizzled in a flame-throwing hot chile sauce with chile threads and more fiery, sliced chiles on top. Kung Pao octopus is the must-get dish, the seafood so firm and tender, and laced with peanuts, peppers and chilies in a silky, milder sauce.

Where: 1500 First St., Suite 140, Napa, (no listed phone), chispabar.com

Hours: 4:30 to 10:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Sunday.

The Fink

Owner Judd Finkelstein has always adored lounge life, even as he ran his Judd’s Hill winery in Napa (insiders knew he entertained with a pop-up tiki lounge there). This “real” lounge wows with some 70 cocktails, divided into geographical categories like L.A. to Bay, Gotham City, Latin America, Caribbean, and Europe. Cool bonus: The Napa Riverfront space is decorated like an ancient ship (if such ships had leather couches and Persian rugs).

Sip: Master bartender Andrew Salazar makes all his own syrups, tinctures and milks, and comes up with some outrageous joys. Try something really wild, such as the Queen Anne’s Revenge, in a crazy tasty mix of Pusser’s Gunpowder Proof rum with Cynar, pineapple gomme syrup, and Ohm coffee bitters. Cynar is an Italian aperitif made from 13 herbs and plants, predominantly artichoke. Gomme syrup is gum arabic that adds a hint of pleasing viscosity, and the bitters are handmade from Napa’s Ohm Coffee Roasters beans.

The cocktail Iuka's Grog includes dark Jamaican rum, Demerara rum, lime, pineapple and passionfruit juices, and a signature "The Fink" swizzle stick at The Fink, a new craft cocktail bar with the theme of an old boathouse in Napa, Wednesday, July 26, 2023. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat) — Iuka’s Grog includes dark Jamaican rum, Demerara rum, lime, pineapple and passionfruit juices, and a signature “The Fink” swizzle stick at The Fink, a new craft cocktail bar with the theme of an old boathouse in Napa. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

The decor in The Fink, a new craft cocktail bar goes with the theme of an old boathouse in Napa, Wednesday, July 26, 2023. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat) — The decor at The Fink, a new craft cocktail bar, goes with the theme of an old boathouse in Napa. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Nosh: Simple fare is more of an afterthought, with chile-braised beef tacos, a mini margherita pizza, and hummus with pizza. But some nights, you might be surprised with “lobsta rolls” dolloped in Tsar Nicolai caviar (this is the new Napa, after all).

Where: 530 Main St., Napa, 707-266-5940, thefinknapa.com

Hours: 4 to 11 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday, 4 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday.

Bitter Bar

The section of Main Street between Third and Second streets is called The Block Party, because owner Mick Salyer operates ZuZu, La Taberna, Hank’s Takeway, and The Bitter Bar all within that stretch. You have to know where this speakeasy spot is, hidden behind the sidewalk café takeout window of Hank’s – you pull on a coatrack on a mirror door in the foyer, and voila, you’re transported to a dark, sexy, pre-Prohibition-style room lined with fern and flora wallpaper, glittering crystal chandeliers, a curved, polished wood bar backed by mirrors, and small tables and velvet booths set with flickering votives.

Sip: A short list of cocktails adds extra cool-factor, baby, with such unlikely combinations you’ll want to adventure through them all. The Afterglow sings with Ron Colón Salvadoreño Red Banana Oleo Rum (real banana), Oloroso dark sherry, citrus, berries, lemongrass and sparkling. Dive in, too, for a crisp Don’t Hit Me James, a twist on Pimm’s Cup with gin, melon, citrus, and a dash of earthy black sesame soda.

Bites from La Taberna can be ordered to (Nicola Parisi) — Bites from La Taberna can be ordered to Bitter Bar from Hank’s Takeaway window. (Nicola Parisi)

Empanadas from La Taberna. (Nicola Parisi)

Nosh: Order some bites from Salyer’s other spots. Hank’s is open to 9 p.m., sending out to-go tapas from ZuZu and La Taberna like boquerones (Spanish white anchovies with sliced egg and remoulade on grilled bread), wild mushroom and goat cheese empanadas, beef cheek empanadas, and ham bocadillo with avocado, sherry aioli and piparras peppers.

Where: 823 Main St. Napa, bitterbarnapa.com

Hours: 5 p.m. to midnight, Wednesday-Sunday

The Lincoln

Owners and casino/nightclub entrepreneurs Mike LeBlanc and Adam Snyder know how to put together a vibrant hangout. This beautifully designed spot is high fashion, from its bolted stainless-steel bar flanked by weathered brick to a floor-to-ceiling fireplace and an outdoor cabana lounge with individual firepits.

Sip: Craft cocktails like the Hot Piece of Houston mixing Milagro Blanco with pineapple, guajillo chile syrup and lime, or the delicious, zero-proof Green Flash drink of kiwi, pineapple and sparkling apple cider over crushed ice (you’ll love the slurpable boba hidden at the bottom). Draft beer refreshes – the creative, seasonal Mare Island Brewery selections are standouts – and there are lots of fine California wines, like the limited production Cattleya Sonoma Coast Chardonnay.

Burger from The Lincoln in downtown Napa. (Kristen Loken)

Cocktails from The Lincoln in downtown Napa. (Kristen Loken)

Nosh: “Hash mac.” Really. It sounds like a starchy, gloppy nightmare, threatening with a marriage of macaroni and cheese and hash browns, but it is a mouthwatering marvel. The sauce is sublimely creamy and studded with zingy Fresno chiles over the fusilli pasta, and the browns come as a 30-layer potato au gratin chunk that somehow remains pillowy with a buttery inside and a crisp crust.

Where: 505 Lincoln Ave., Napa, 707-699-2276, thelincolnnapa.com

Hours: Happy hour 3:30 to 5:30 p.m. plus full bar 3:30 p.m. to 2 a.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

ZuZu

Longtime local favorite ZuZu expanded last fall, adding a global, gin-based cocktail bar to its Spanish-inspired restaurant. Gin is beloved around the world, crafted in London, France, Spain, Vietnam, Ireland, India, Mexico City, Scotland, Italy, Japan, Healdsburg and Chicago, among other spots. Sit at the sleek white tiled bar, or at the surrounding wood bistro tables, and explore the world in your glass.

Sip: You can select from the house crafted list – the Early Girl Spritz is a standout, with Manchego gin, tomato water, sparkling wine, golden balsamic and simple syrup. Or select from one of nearly 20 global gins (try Ki No Tea from Kyoto, Japan, brimming with notes of yuzu, bamboo, gyokuro tea, and sansho pepper), choose your tonic from a rainbow list, and make a custom G&T.

Nosh: Savor tapas all day and night, then nibble late night snacks such as fire roasted mussels, fire roasted shrimp, and chicken croquettas.

Where: 829 Main St., Napa, 707-224-8555, zuzunapa.com

Hours: Noon to 10 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday, with late night bites running until “closing,” which is generally 11-ish.

The Best Sonoma County Restaurant Openings of 2023

December 2023

By Heather Irwin

Restaurateurs are a brave lot, and few are braver than those who dive head-first into opening a restaurant while the economy continues to slump, raw food costs are higher than ever, diners are spooked by skyrocketing menu prices, staffing shortages are still very real, and negative social media can sink a restaurant in short order. Even in the best possible world, most don’t make it to five years, no matter how good they are.

Despite the barriers to entry, new eateries open almost every week in Sonoma County, and restaurateurs brave the odds despite the very real possibility that their hard work won’t find traction in a saturated market.

That makes successful new restaurants notable and worth celebrating. In what’s become an annual — and very subjective — look at the year’s dining landscape.

More than 50 restaurants opened this year in Sonoma County, and narrowing the list to 10 stand-outs wasn’t easy. But what these ten spots have in common are previous successes (such as chefs moving from pop-ups to brick-and-mortars); a great kitchen crew, serving staff and management team; an interesting, well-executed menu; comfortable atmosphere; and good marketing (the last can be a silent killer if ignored). I have an almost perfect record of knowing if a restaurant will be a success or failure simply by the font they use on their menu. It’s a little detail, but shows whether the owner knows their audience and has aesthetic acuity.

Millennial owners and chefs make up most of this year’s winners. Ranging between their late 20s and early 40s, they’re bringing fresh ideas, taking risks with non-traditional concepts, and attracting younger diners (often from San Francisco and the rest of the Bay Area).

Here are the Best Sonoma County Restaurant Openings of 2023:

Overall Winner: Molti Amici (June)

At Molti Amici in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

SingleThread alums Jonny Barr, and Sean McGaughey remained close friends after their stints at the Michelin-starred restaurant. McGaughey and his wife, Melissa Yanc, opened Quail & Condor Bakery, Troubadour and Le Diner in 2021 and 2022, often with Barr helping. Tapping several other friends for the project, the group opened Molti Amici last summer with a stunning bar program, fresh pasta menu, wood-fired pizzas with ever-changing seasonal ingredients and excellent desserts. Their enthusiasm is infectious, and the restaurant has filled a social gap left by the closure of Campo Fina.

Why It Matters: Their luxury dining backgrounds bring cred to this bustling bistro, but there’s nothing stuffy or formal about the food or the atmosphere. A mix of locals and visitors speaks to Molti Amici’s authenticity. 330 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, moltiamici.com

The Redwood (February)

Scallop Crudo, made with fennel, kumquat, oil-cured olives, and pink peppercorn, at The Redwood in Sebastopol on Friday, February 24, 2023. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

When Khom Loi alums Geneva Melby and Ryan Miller soft-launched The Redwood in late February, I planned to stop in for a glass of cloudy natural wine and maybe a courtesy nibble of charcuterie. Ninety minutes later, I was still eating (and drinking) because once the first dishes came to the table — crisp cubes of potatoes with pimenton aioli and a plate of fresh pita with the best baba ghanoush I’ve ever eaten — had me stuck to my seat, where I settled in for the night.

Why It Matters: A young team passionate about natural wines has created a welcoming space for anyone interested in low-intervention winemaking. Food, however, isn’t an afterthought but a loving pairing to these food-friendly wines. It’s a much-needed fresh take on wine bars. 234 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-861-9730, theredwoodwine.com.

Second Story (July)

A pour of miso at the table over Summer Vegetables with Smoked Tomatoes from the vegan prix fixe menu from chef Stu Stalker on weekends at Second Story, the new upstairs restaurant at Little Saint in Healdsburg September 8, 2023. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — A pour of miso at the table over Summer Vegetables with Smoked Tomatoes from the vegan prix fixe menu from chef Stu Stalker on weekends at Second Story, the new upstairs restaurant at Little Saint in Healdsburg September 8, 2023.
(Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Last summer, the owners of Little Saint (formerly SHED) quietly opened the doors of their renovated upstairs dining room with a prix-fixe menu that’s surprisingly modest for the quality of food prepared in the state-of-the-art upstairs kitchen. At the helm is Chef Stu Stalker, an alum of Copehagen’s Noma (considered one of the world’s best restaurants). Each dish is meticulously planned and plated, a testament to what can be accomplished without using animal products.

Why It Matters: Plant-based dining gets much-needed inspiration from a world-renowned chef who takes it very seriously. Here, playful experimentation leads to innovation in the evolving realm of meatless cuisine.

Valley Swim Club ( October)

Cashew Queso with a side of Jimmy Nardello Peppers from opening day at the Valley Swim Club restaurant in Sonoma, Tuesday, Oct. 3, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

A second, more casual Sonoma restaurant from the Valley Bar + Bottle Team shows how much talent this awesome foursome has to spare. Chefs Emma Lipp and Stephanie Reagor, along with friends Tanner Walle and Lauren Feldman made Bar + Bottle a must-visit through the troubled times of the pandemic. The ultra-casual poolside vibe (there’s actually no pool) explores seafood classics with Asian and Mexican twists. Their passion for natural wines extends to their pairings in both locations.

Why It Matters: The new restaurant is a more approachable extension with broad appeal to the SF crowd and locals. 18709 Arnold Dr., Sonoma, valleyswim.club.

Goose & Fern (August)

Scotch egg at The Goose & Fern in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

It’s not easy to take over a much-loved English pub with another English pub, but Clyde and Brittany Hartwell have won us over with their fish and chips, Guinness beef pie and British desserts. Clyde’s a hale and hearty host, and the food’s as comforting as pulling on your favorite jammies straight from the dryer. Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-843-4235, thegooseandfern.com.

Why It Matters: The closure of Toad in the Hole was a loss, but the new owners have kept the fun, pubby atmosphere with a new focus on food.

Augie’s (October)

Mark and Terri Stark’s new restaurant isn’t about fiddly French food and meticulous plating. It’s about hearty onion soup, braised boeuf Bourguignon with creamy potatoes and bowls of steaming mussels swimming in creamy Dijon sauce that’s begging to be soaked up with a crusty baguette. Augie’s is a truffle-buttered bear hug of a restaurant where the Champagne starts flowing at 3 p.m. and the skinny fries come in a gold-handled rondeau pan because they can.

Why It Matters: With eight restaurants and hundreds of employees, the Starks matter in the Sonoma County culinary scene. They’ve taken chances on locations for their restaurants (such as Railroad Square for Stark’s Steak and Seafood), and this downtown Santa Rosa location speaks volumes about their dedication to the revitalization of the Fourth Street corridor. Plus, who doesn’t like French food? 535 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-531-4400, augiesfrench.com.

Marla Bakery (October)

Crebble, a croissant-like muffin covered with maple sugar and sea salt from Marla Bakery. (Marla Bakery) — Crebble, a croissant-like muffin covered with cinnamon and sugar, from Marla Bakery. (Marla Bakery)

Marla isn’t just a bakery; it’s a community. Owners Amy Brown and Joe Wolf moved their family to Sonoma County in 2020 and have operated out of a small Windsor production kitchen. Opening a retail shop lets them expand their distribution, but more importantly, create a warm and welcoming space for locals to ruminate over coffee and pastries in the former Miracle Plum location.

Why It Matters: Amy isn’t just a baker — she’s a trained chef with serious chops. Her creativity in sweet and savory pastries, bread, and patisserie is one thing, but she’s expanding to include fried chicken and brunch pop-ups along with Thirsty Thursdays with paired bites. 208 Davis St., Santa Rosa, 707-852-4098, marlabakery.com.

Stellina Alimentari (November)

Sandwich and salads from Stellina Alimentari in Petaluma. (Emma K Creative)

“The best trattoria this side of Rome” is how I’ve described this tiny cafe from the owners of Stellina Pronto. Sandwiches are their bread and butter, with meaty porchetta on rosemary lemon bread and lighter schiaccita (think focaccia) with grilled artichoke relish and roasted mushrooms. The menu extends to include fried snacks, charcuterie and salads. 160 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, stellinaalimentari.com.

Why It Matters: Almost everything is made in-house, and owner Christian Caiazzo is serious about his passion for Italian cooking. Stellina Pronto has become a staple of Petaluma’s food scene, and Alimentari is headed in the same direction.

Kapu (January)

The Tropical Itch at Kapu Bar, a tiki bar and restaurant in the heart of downtown Petaluma on Keller Street, February 1, 2023. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat) — The Tropical Itch Kapu Bar, tiki bar and restaurant in the heart of downtown Petaluma on Keller street February 1, 2023 (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

Tiki is a lifestyle choice for General Manager Michael Richardson who has been slinging mai tai’s for decades. The bar is a maximalist mashup of faux Polynesian, Pacific pirate, midcentury modern, beachcomber, Indiana Jones, and pinup Americana with Hawaiian and Pacific-rim-inspired eats. Sipping rum drinks tucked into a faux grass shack is a vibe.

Why It Matters: The themed bar is a fun experience, but Richardson takes his drinks seriously (he’s literally written the book on tiki drinks). Chef Mike Lutz brings approachable flavors to dishes that match the island-y adventure. 132 Keller St., Petaluma, 707-559-3665, kapubar.com.

Iggy’s Organic Burgers (June)

Iggy’s Organic Burgers with duck fat and beef patty, buttery brioche, organic American cheese, ketchup, mustard, onions caramelized with a secret sauce, and pickles are served on the plaza, Friday in Downtown Healdsburg June 30, 2023. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

One of the best options for a family night on the Healdsburg Plaza is the new Iggy’s Organic Burgers and Angela’s Organic Ice Cream shop housed together in one space. Owned by a mother and son, the casual burger spot is something Healdsburg needed — ultra-casual takeout dining (there are a few tables, but not many). The burgers are absolutely incredible in a fast-food sort of way — the thin patty, the mushy bun, the “Million Island” sauce. Plus, there’s ice cream and cheesecake in the same store!

Why It Matters: Healdsburg needed a break from yet another fine dining establishment.

Bonus Addition, Maison Porcella (March)

At Maison Porcella in Windsor. (Kim Carroll/For Sonoma Magazine)

Though the charcuterie shop didn’t open in 2023, Chef Marc-Henri and Maude Jean-Baptiste’s cafe-style lunch and dinner program officially launched this spring. Leave any thoughts of a rushed meal at the doorstep because Maude insists you enjoy your meal without racing from one dish to the next. And she’s not afraid to enforce that very continental philosophy through her charm. Some dishes take up to 20 minutes to prepare, and they’re so worth it.

Why It Matters: The food is undeniably French, as is the Sonoma-meets-Lyon atmosphere. The magic of this little bistro makes it a truly special find. 8499 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor. 707-955-5611, maisonporcella.com.

8 Reasons Why Winter Is a Great Time to Visit Sonoma Wine Country

December 2023

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

3/2/2014: B1: TOASTING WINE COUNTRY: College friends from Sonoma State University and Santa Rosa Junior College pose for a picture at Truett Hurst in the Dry Creek Valley. The annual Wine Road Barrel Tasting, which draws many young tasters, continues today and next weekend. PC: College friends from SSU and SRJC pose for a picture at Truett Hurst in the Dry Creek Valley. The 36th Annual Wine Road Barrel Tasting continues on Sunday and next weekend.

Winter might be considered the off season for many of the world’s hottest travel destinations, but a Wine Country visit between December and March may be even more enchanting than a stay during the summer months. Much of the scenery is more resplendent and picturesque during the winter as grasses on the rolling hills turn from the pale yellow hue of late summer to verdant green and dry creek beds flow once more with water from seasonal rains.

It is a time of year that beckons the savvy traveler, without tourist crowds to contend with or the bustle that often accompanies them. In winter, you can visit Wine Country for a fraction of the cost of other times of year as local hotels, wineries and restaurants roll out special deals to entice guests. The best time to come is during the week, before hotel prices peak and popular restaurants and wineries get booked up.

Mild winter weather

Some like it hot, but Wine Country can be truly magical in the milder months. The region’s temperate climate means that it never gets too cold, even in the dead of winter, making outdoor excursions and activities pleasant during much of the season. Morning coastal fog can create a cozy or even mystical atmosphere depending on your inclinations. And, just as in legendary Camelot, the fog often burns away as the day progresses, revealing a radiant California sun that lights up the area’s stunning landscapes.

Winter is a perfect season to take long walks on beaches such as Salmon Creek and Goat Rock, go whale watching at places like Bodega Head or Stillwater Cove Regional Park, and take in the lush greenery of nature on hikes through state and regional parks like Tolay, Crane Creek, Helen Putnam and Annadel. For hikes that pair strolls through vineyards with wine tastings, Bartholomew Estate in Sonoma and Alexander Valley Vineyards in Healdsburg are among the vintners that invite guests to explore their grounds.

Waterfall story Sonoma Falls in Sugarloaf Ridge State Park — One of the more accessible places to see a waterfall in winter is at Sonoma Creek Falls in Sugarloaf Ridge State Park. (Chris Hardy/for Sonoma Magazine)

Gushing waterfalls

The region’s waterfalls roar to life again in winter. One of the more accessible places to see a waterfall is at Sonoma Creek Falls in Sugarloaf Ridge State Park in Kenwood. The 25-foot waterfall can be reached by a few routes, but the easiest path is on the relatively level lower Canyon Trail, a walk of just a third of a mile.

For a dramatic view of waterfalls that break over the rugged coastal cliffs out onto the beaches below, Phillips Gulch at Salt Point State Park and Stengel Beach at The Sea Ranch are among the best. The scenic drive to these falls along coastal Highway 1 is an added bonus.

Selfies in the mustard field

A visit to Wine Country wouldn’t be complete without taking selfies in front of the region’s iconic backdrops and, if you time your visit just right, you may even capture a mustard field in full bloom. From Alexander Valley to Dry Creek Valley to Carneros Valley, there are plenty of good spots in Wine Country to find photogenic fields of mustard. They can be found on the side of the road or among the vineyard rows (B.R. Cohn Winery, Kunde Family Winery, Paradise Ridge Winery, Gloria Ferrer Vineyards) in regional and state parks (Joe Rodota Regional Trail), and in the fields of local farms. Find more mustard fields here.

Nashville newlyweds Martin and Erin Beach record the moment in a field of mustard in Kenwood, Monday Feb. 29, 2016. The fields were planted by winemaker Steve Ledson. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat) 2016 — NA visit to Wine Country wouldn’t be complete without taking selfies in front of the region’s iconic backdrops and, if you time your visit just right, you may even capture a mustard field in full bloom. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)

Special treatment at local wineries

For a taste of the VIP experience, there is no better time to visit a winery than in winter. After the busy harvest season, and before the vines begin to grow again, there is a sweet spot for those interested in a more intimate and leisurely winery visit. There are more opportunities to join in friendly chats with winemakers who, on slower days, might also be more inclined to pour you vintages not always available to the public.

Family-owned wineries like Frick Winery in Geyersville, whose owner Bill Frick has been a one-man show producing small-lot wines for 47 years, are perfect venues for just these kind of special encounters. Inman Family Wines in Santa Rosa, run by Kathleen Inman, and Enriquez Estate Winery in Forestville, run by Cecilia Enriquez and her parents, Ana and Eduardo, are other local family-owned wineries worth a visit. Wineries such as Anaba Wines, Benovia Winery, Pachyderm Station and Three Sticks Wines at the Adobe are particularly cozy spots for sipping wine in a warm and inviting ambience.

Winter is also a time to experience pruning season in Sonoma Wine Country, when winemakers and vineyard workers shape the dormant vines for the coming harvest season and wineries invite guests for special tours and tastings. Beltane Ranch in Glen Ellen hosts an all-day pruning festival each year in late February or early March. Kunde Family Winery in Kenwood offer special vineyard hikes (including dog hikes) that allow guests to see the vines up close. And at Capo Creek Ranch in Healdsburg, visitors can admire old-vine Zinfandel planted over 40 years ago while a small crew prunes the vines over six weeks, often beginning in late January.

Flowers Vineyards and Winery's Sonoma Coast vineyard in winter. (Sonoma County Tourism) — Flowers Vineyards and Winery’s Sonoma Coast vineyard in winter. (Sonoma County Tourism)

Reservations at trendy restaurants

If waiting in line or waiting in vain to dine at a noteworthy restaurant is something you would rather avoid, winter is truly the most wonderful time of the year. Popular restaurants such as Single Thread, Cyrus, Farmhouse Inn, The Matheson, and Valette are usually not quite as crowded, making it a better time to book a reservation for a truly gourmet dining experience. These delicious prospects are enough to whet anyone’s appetite.

And special deals on meals

Not only is it easier to find a table during winter, it is also easier to find special restaurant deals. Wine Country is replete with more affordable dining options during Restaurant Week, which runs from Feb. 24 to Mar. 2 in 2025. It is a time when restaurants showcase their talents and highlight local ingredients with special menus and prices — a perfect opportunity for diners to explore and discover the region’s bountiful culinary options. Last year, nearly 100 restaurants offered prix fixe menus that included two and three courses for a fixed price, ranging from $10 to $15 to $25 for lunch, $25 to $35 to $55 for dinner and a “sweet perk” for $5.

“To call SingleThread Farms a restaurant is akin to calling Buckingham Palace simply a house. This temple of haute cuisine in Sonoma County’s quaint town of Healdsburg delivers on the oft over-used promise of ‘farm to table,’” wrote Forbes. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — The Mid Winter in Sonoma includes Kushi Oyster, Passmore Ranch Caviar and Alyssum Flower from Single Thread Farms Restaurant in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

A coveted beer

It only happens once a year, and if you aren’t in Wine Country—or rather Beer Country—during the chosen time, you just might miss it.

Russian River Brewing plans to make its Pliny the Younger available at its Santa Rosa and Windsor pubs March 21-April 3 in 2025. Technically, that puts the official release a few days into spring next year (before 2022, the release typically took place in February).

However, for the last two years, the ultra-coveted, limited-release Triple IPA began making its way to bars and restaurants throughout the Bay Area in February, weeks in advance of its March release. Likewise, the brewery says it will distribute kegs of Pliny the Younger in February 2025 to its draft accounts throughout California and beyond.

But there is nothing quite like seeing or experiencing first hand the energy and anticipation exuded by the hundreds of Pliny the Younger devotees who typically line up hours in advance for the annual releases at Russian River Brewing.

One-of-a-kind seasonal events

The Pliny the Younger release is not the only local epicurean event that occurs just once a year. The 32nd annual Wine Road Winter Wineland takes place over two days (Jan. 18-19, 2025) at 60 participating wineries throughout Healdsburg, Santa Rosa, Windsor, Guerneville, Forestville, Sebastopol, Cloverdale and Geyserville.

After checking in at the first winery of the day, participants receive a glass, wristband and event map to partake in wine tastings at any of the event’s participating vineyards. You will need to select your check-in winery to start, this is where you will get your glass, wristband and event map, then you may visit any participating winery you would like for the weekend.

Wine Road hosts a similar Barrel Tasting event over two days (March 1 and 2, 2025) that allows participants to go into the wine cellars and taste directly from the barrels. Wineries will be selling futures of these wines which are often limited and sell out before they are released.

Crabfeeds are another event popular during the winter months. The 35th annual Great Sonoma Crab and Wine Fest takes place Saturday, Feb. 1, 2025 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds, just one of many crab feeds hosted by nonprofits and organizations throughout Sonoma County during January and February.

The 18th Annual Celebration of Pigs & Pinot takes place at Hotel Healdsburg March 21-122, 2025. Chef Charlie Palmer hosts this series of intimate dining and educational events that feature master sommeliers, winemakers and celebrity chefs as part of a weekend showcasing pairings of Pinot Noirs and pork dishes.

Click through the above gallery for a peek at some winter highlights and favorite destinations in Sonoma County.