Flavortown is Really at Jam’s Joy Bungalow in Sebastopol

Big bold tastes at a tiny Sebastopol hole-in-the-wall

Inside what may be the tiniest kitchen in Sonoma County come some of the most epic flavors of Southeast Asia. But first you’ll have to find it.

Jamilah Nixon-Mathis, the “bastoni” (sticks) of the former Forchetta Bastoni in Sebastopol has quietly been hawking her curried noodles, banh mi, breakfast jok (a savory rice porridge) and specials like rice cake waffles with bits of Spam and green onions in the mix.

Just opened is her tiny brick and mortar on the Sebastopol Square. Little more than a walk-in closet filled with culinary pizzazz, Jamilah turns out one of our favorite banh mi sandwiches. More than just a snack with attitude, it’s a masterpiece of crusty French bread, savory barbecued meat, pickled carrots, cilantro and a swipe of pate.

Jok is especially lovely. It’s a warm and hearty breakfast (or lunch) dish with prickles of spicy ginger, Khao man gai sauce (a traditional Thai street food sauce of fermented soybean paste, tamari, sugar) with a custardy six-minute egg, herbs, fried shallot and green onions. You’ll never look at oatmeal the same way again.

Look for the pink, yellow and blue chairs under the trees. You’ll be glad you took the time to search it out. You can also find Jamilah at many events inside her colorful food truck. Open 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. 150 Weeks Way, Sebastopol, facebook.com/jamsjoybungalow.