Obsidian Base Camp tasting room in downtown Sonoma. (Obsidian Wine Co.)
Obsidian Wine Company’s new tasting room is set smack in the middle of the historic Sonoma Plaza, yet it somehow manages to convey an off-the-beaten-path vibe. That’s fitting for renegade vintners who pride themselves on operating outside the box — from planting a vineyard on a ridge of solid obsidian glass to coopering their own barrels in Hungary to creating unconventional wines to complement the classics.
The story
Brothers Arpad and Peter Molnar cofounded the winery with Michael Terrien more than two decades ago after planting a vineyard at the site of an abandoned walnut orchard in Lake County. The Obsidian Ridge vineyard sits on a volcano, dotted with huge boulders of black obsidian. If that sounds extreme, there’s a good reason: It is!
Though the winery is based in Sonoma, the original vineyard remains a focus for the Obsidian brand. In 2020, Obsidian Wine Co. embarked on a new adventure with its Rabbit Hole program, dedicated to experimental winemaking and uncommon varieties.
Obsidian Base Camp tasting room in downtown Sonoma. (Courtesy of Obsidian Wine Co.)Obsidian Base Camp tasting room in downtown Sonoma. (Courtesy of Obsidian Wine Co.)
The vibe
Base Camp is set 50 feet back from the square, between Chateau Sonoma and Sign of the Bear. Step into the Japanese-style garden, past the giant obsidian boulder “imported” from Lake County, and you’ll find a mini oasis.
The tasting room has an indoor-outdoor feel, with open, airy spaces, lots of natural light and a fenced patio filled with native trees and plants. The garden’s coolest feature is a fire pit made from a huge chunk of — you guessed it — obsidian. Inside, a wall-sized video installation provides a virtual visit to Obsidian Ridge — with the occasional lizard scuttling across the rocks.
On the palate
Looking for classic varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay? Or do you like your wines a little on the wild side, with “natural” leanings and lesser-known grape varieties taking center stage? Obsidian swings both ways.
Choose from three themed flights ($30-$50), including the Base Camp tasting — a mix of wines from Lake County and Carneros — an all-Cabernet flight, and the Down the Rabbit Hole tasting of experimental wines.
Obsidian Base Camp tasting room in downtown Sonoma. (Courtesy of Obsidian Wine Co.)
Among the classic lineup, the Obsidian 2023 Estate Chardonnay ($35) from the Molnar family’s Poseidon vineyard in Carneros is a bright, herbaceous beauty with mineral notes. The deeply colored 2021 Half Mile Cabernet Sauvignon ($80) — named for this particular block’s location halfway up the volcano — showcases the winery’s Lake County vineyard. It’s juicy and delicious, with plummy fruit flavor and a firm tannic structure.
If you’re tasting with friends, make sure at least one of you opts for the Rabbit Hole flight; that’s where the fun is. I love the Pear Blanc ($18 per half bottle), a sparkling blend of Sauvignon Blanc grapes and Lake County pear juice. With a name that translates to “tongue twister,” the “Virelangue” Picpoul-Bourboulenc smells like fresh melons and has a round texture to match — yet the white blend has a refreshing zing of acidity.
Beyond the bottles
There’s plenty to see and do on the Sonoma Plaza, but if you fancy a sweet treat away from the tourist throngs, take a six-minute drive to La Michoacana in Boyes Hot Springs. This family-owned Mexican ice cream shop is the place to go for flavors like coconut-pineapple and rose petal, plus paletas (frozen fruit pops) studded with chunks of fresh mango, guava and pineapple. Not ready for dessert just yet? Stop by El Molino Central for yummy tamales and fish tacos.
Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.
Guests at Montage Healdsburg can enjoy wines from the onsite vineyard, made by renowned winemaker Jesse Katz. (Montage Healdsburg)
People come from all over the world to enjoy the place we’re lucky to call home. Whether you’re visiting this area on vacation or you’re planning a staycation in your own backyard, there are a variety of great hotel properties to choose from.
From budget to splurge, here are six of our favorite Sonoma County hotels.
Splurge — Montage Healdsburg
Tucked in the hills north of Healdsburg’s Parkland Farms neighborhood, the luxury resort is set on more than 250 acres of oak woodland and vineyards. The Michelin Guide awarded the hotel Two Keys this past spring. (Similar to how the Michelin Star recognizes restaurants, Michelin Keys recognize hotel properties.) Per Michelin, the Two Key distinction equates to an exceptional stay.
Montage has a seasonal, French-inspired restaurant, Hazel Hill, as well as its own onsite vineyard and wine, made under the Surveyor label by winemaker Jesse Katz.
The resort offers 130 bungalow-style guest rooms and suites. Rates start at $1,595.
View from the back patio of a guest room at Montage Healdsburg. (Montage Healdsburg)At Farmhouse Inn in Forestville. (Farmhouse Inn)
Splurge — Farmhouse Inn, Forestville
Situated on a serene 10-acre property in the Russian River Valley, this boutique hotel has collected a long list of awards and accolades in its over 20-year history. All 25 rooms feature a large tub and fireplace; nightly turndown service includes housemade chocolate chip cookies. Rates start at $699.
Upscale — The Stavrand Russian River Valley, Guerneville
The former Applewood Inn and Spa changed hands in early 2020 and was transformed into The Stavrand. Set on nearly six acres, the property is a registered historic landmark that dates back to the 1920s.
The Stavrand, also awarded Two Keys in the Michelin Guide, features 21 renovated rooms in three buildings. Rates start at $375.
Guest room in the Cazadero House at The Stavrand Russian River Valley in Guerneville. (Courtesy of The Stavrand)Many of the redesigned guest rooms at The Sea Ranch Lodge offer cozy window seats that encourage guests to linger and take in sweeping coastal views. (Adam Potts)
Upscale — The Sea Ranch Lodge
The centerpiece of Sonoma’s iconic modernist community, The Sea Ranch Lodge encourages guests to slow down and take in the rugged coastline.
No two of the 17 guest rooms are the same, but the notion of “living lightly on the land” is consistent throughout each accommodation.
Like The Stavrand, The Sea Ranch Lodge was recently recognized with the new Michelin Key distinction. Michelin awarded the lodge One Key, which is said to equate to a very special stay. Rates start at $500.
The lounge at The Astro motel in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of The Astro)
Budget — The Astro, Santa Rosa
The same talented people who gave us The Spinster Sisters restaurant stripped this 1960s motor lodge to the studs to turn it into the colorful property it is today. Decorated with vintage furnishings, everything is available for guests to purchase.
The starting rate is $169.
323 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-200-4655, theastro.com
Budget — Sonoma Creek Inn, Sonoma
Just a few miles north of Sonoma Plaza, this motel-style property could be one of Wine Country’s best bargains. Rates start at $129.
Students working the land at Climate Farm School in Sebastopol. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
The woman standing at the edge of a field of row crops brandishing a large knife was not, in fact, an extra from a “Mad Max” sequel. This was Erika Foster, a soils expert with Point Blue Conservation Science, and on this June morning, Foster and a colleague were leading a workshop on soil health at Climate Farm School, a visionary week-long program that immerses climate leaders of all ages and backgrounds in principles of food policy and hands-on regenerative farming.
Bad-ass though it looked, the knife in Foster’s hand wasn’t especially sharp, or dangerous. It was a traditional Japanese trowel called a hori-hori, one of several tools that Climate Farm School students used to work the soil in this corner of “campus” — the 172-acre Green Valley Farm + Mill outside Sebastopol.
Our assignment that morning was to extract a soil sample, then perform a “field texture assessment,” adding water and making mudballs out of our sample to determine its percentage of sand, silt and clay. Those percentages would tell us much about the soil underfoot.
Working in the soil at Climate Farm School in Sebastopol. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
Watching the mudball experiments go down was the indefatigable Laney Siegner, the founder and co-director of the school and a pioneer in applying “experiential approaches” to climate change education in farm settings. Siegner worked on regenerative farms while earning a Ph.D. at UC Berkeley and explains she was blown away by the hands-on knowledge of the farmers, many of whom had advanced degrees of their own.
The daughter of a teacher, she found herself asking how she could connect others to the wisdom of those who farm the land. Climate Farm School was born, and three years later has two host sites in California — the other is in San Benito County — plus one in the northwest, one each in Vermont and New York state, and a sixth in Italy.
I’d come to the course with scant knowledge of farming, although I did love the E.B. White novel “Charlotte’s Web,” and was profoundly relieved when Wilbur the pig was spared. Beneath my nodding, studious mien on that first morning of school was a hidden cynic wondering: Who were these people, shelling out several thousand dollars to play farmer?
That cynic washed out of Climate Farm School in the first 20 minutes. Any skepticism I’d harbored was replaced with respect for my fellow students, and gratitude for their big brains and willingness to do a deep dive on the planet’s most intractable problems, and determination to solve them.
The school combines online sessions with a week of “getting your hands dirty on a working farm,” according to a course description.
Students working the land, extracting soil samples at Climate Farm School in Sebastopol. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
They mean that literally. Out in the field, as we assessed our mudballs, Erika Foster pointed out, “There are more individual organisms in that handful of soil than there are people on the planet. Thousands and thousands of bacteria and fungi, protozoa and archaea, all of the many large classifications of life, are found within soils across the world.”
We saw several of those classifications up close: lots of wriggling worms inconvenienced by our research, along with pill bugs and a millipede.
Greg Richardson, another soil expert from Point Blue, likened the exercise to snorkeling. “You stand at the edge of the water, and it’s choppy, or flat. But it’s not until you put your head underwater that you realize how much is going on.”
The curriculum, devised by Siegner and her co-director, Ryan Peterson, focuses on regenerative agriculture, a philosophy and approach to farming and ranching intended, according to the National Resources Defense Council, “to restore soil and ecosystem health, address inequity and leave our land, waters and climate in better shape for future generations.”
It made sense to start with soil — “the foundation of everything we’ll be doing the rest of the week,” said Siegner.
Students at Climate Farm School in Sebastopol. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
Richardson had begun that morning’s session by asking us to go around the circle, introducing ourselves and detailing our “background” and “experience.”
In this company, it seemed inappropriate to reply truthfully — Hi, I’m Austin and I once tried to aerate my lawn with a pitchfork but ended up killing it — so I ignored that instruction.
We learned that Nitesh Dullabh, a wise and kind 50-something from Los Altos with a background in “environmental-social-governance issues,” now runs a consultancy, helping businesses and other entities practice “regenerative sustainability.”
Ashwini Ramanathan was visiting from New York City, where she tends a garden on the patio of her apartment and is working towards a master’s degree at Columbia University in sustainability management. She spoke of her keen interest in the “reciprocal relationship” between climate change and agriculture.
“As someone who lives in a large city,” she later shared, “my exposure to farmland and understanding of how my food is grown is limited.”
Student Ashwini Ramanathan, visiting from New York City, in the tomato fields. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
Carley Hauck, an author, podcaster and Stanford instructor, had been studying regenerative agriculture on her own for the last four years, she told us. She volunteered at Coastal Roots Farm in Encinitas and was interested in someday starting her own farm.
Smiling, effervescent Khadine Singh studied mechanical engineering at Columbia and now lives in San Francisco. A native of Trinidad, she’s in her 11th year at Google.
“My thing is data and people,” she told me, “finding the intersection of how I can use my data and statistical skills and engineering skills to help people.”
For the last four years her work has focused on climate. She’s also deeply interested in food supply and soils, “and I’m super-excited to learn more.”
We were all interested in improving the gardens we maintain at home, or, in my case, in learning how to stop needlessly killing innocent flora. But my classmates also had far more righteous and far-reaching plans. They were widely, deeply read on the problems wrought by a warming planet and had cleared this week on their schedules to learn how to become more effective warriors in the battle to save it.
As a forward-thinking, outside-the-mainstream outfit, Climate Farm School fits comfortably in the continuum of Sonoma County enterprises asking big questions about land use, sustainability and farming practices.
Green Valley Farm + Mill, our home for the week, is a community of farmers sharing land and opportunity. Nearby are EARTHseed Farm, California’s first Afro-Indigenous permaculture farm, Solar Punk Farms, a queer farming collective, and Heron Shadow, a tranquil 7.6-acre property whose founders teach Indigenous farming practices.
Sebastopol is also home to Elizabeth Whitlow, executive director of the Regenerative Organic Alliance, the nonprofit overseeing the Regenerative Organic Certified program for food, fiber and personal care ingredients.
Traversing Climate Farm School in Sebastopol. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
Many who enroll in Climate Farm School arrive with an interest in a career change or pivot, said Siegner. A week on the farm, in the company of experts and like-minded students, usually reinforces that yearning.
Students “have used the course to change and grow,” said Siegner. A few have gone on to start their own regenerative food companies. One specializes in Korean bone broth, another in chickpea pancakes, and two former students teamed up to start a pasta company in Brooklyn.
Siegner and Peterson have plans to scale up the school operation. In addition to their six current sites, they have scoped out a “pipeline” of a half-dozen other farms in Massachusetts, North Carolina, Tennessee and Ireland.
There seems to be no shortage of people thirsty for the kind of hands-on experiences Siegner and Peterson have developed, despite the cost, which is around $3,000 and covers meals and housing for the in-person week at the farm, plus three weeks of online courses and access to a vibrant network of alumni.
Some scholarships are available, which is helpful, said Siegner, “because we have a lot of scholarship need.”
That’s part of the reason Climate Farm School became a nonprofit in March, “so we can fundraise more to support the cost of the course. We don’t want financial access to be a barrier,” she said.
It was fun, going back to school, stretching my brain to retain, for instance, CLORPT. That’s the ungainly word for the five factors which control soil formation: CLimate, Organisms, Relief, Parent material and Time.
“It’s not a very intuitive acronym,” allowed Richardson, after teaching it to us.
The five components of CLORPT are not to be confused with the Five Soil Health Principles embraced by regenerative agriculture adherents, including “reducing disturbance” to avoid breaking up the soil, and “keeping the soil covered” with mulch or a cover crop, to prevent erosion.
Based on the number of times it cropped up, so to speak, the most important soil health principle was plant diversity, an antidote to monoculture crops.
Applying these principles, Richardson says, will “bring the way we farm back into alignment with how natural systems tend to work.”
A shared meal centered around vegetables, eggs and other ingredients harvested on site. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
To better understand how soil-building results in healthier food systems, one morning we traipsed a half-mile to the northern end of the property, where 22-year-old farmer Alice Tibbetts operates a 1.5-acre plot called Fledgling Farm.
The month of June had been intense — “the crunch month,” she told us, between harvesting for her weekly CSA distribution and “big plantings” of melons, winter squash, nightshades and other veggies. “And the weeds are insane.”
She has learned, among other things, to let go of perfection. While much of her produce is beautiful, beetles gnawed holes in some of the chard this season. “So I was like, ‘OK, CSA members, here’s your holey chard. Sorry but not sorry. I tried my best. And it’s still delicious.’”
While the work is hard and unrelenting, Tibbetts told us, she tries to think of it as more of a ritual, “so it doesn’t feel like work, it feels like life practice.”
She was also listening to an audiobook called “Radical Acceptance.”
“It helps me deal with weedy beds.”
It felt good to pitch in alongside her, laying down some mulch, trying my hand at the versatile “scuffle hoe” to root out small weeds, and helping plant Little Gem lettuces between rows of peppers. Tibbets asked that we press down at the base of the lettuces when planting. That would create “good root contact” and a slight depression, where water could pool.
Not long after, I was chagrined to see her revisiting some of the lettuces I’d planted, using her fingers to slightly deepen that pool. “I would love to see a little more impression around the plant, if that makes sense,” she said, addressing no one in particular.
I looked around, as if searching for the culprit, even though that slipshod planter was me.
Later, to a warbling musical score of barn swallows and the occasional, joyous exclamations of Siegner’s 2-year-old daughter, Juniper, co-director Ryan Peterson led a talk on the trillion-plus-dollar bundle of bills, appropriations and regulations now known as the Farm Bill. That massive amalgam of omnibus legislation is passed every five years — in theory. The current Farm Bill expired last September.
Most programs have been extended while legislators haggle over the next version.
A quiet moment in the farmhouse classroom. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
We learned about Earl Butz, the agribusiness-friendly Secretary of Agriculture in the early 1970s, who supercharged the movement to industrialize American farms, which vastly increased food production but, in Peterson’s view, has also resulted in a host of ills.
While diversifying their crops could make many farmers better able to withstand natural disasters, pests and diseases, the current Farm Bill incentivizes monocropping, Peterson explained to the group. “So we’ve got an insurance system that pays out in times of low resilience, and at the same time creates low resilience.”
Not gonna lie — it can all get a little heavy, at times, dwelling on climbing temperatures and dysfunctional ag policies and forecasts that global topsoils will deplete in 60 years.
Well aware of this, the course designers allowed some space to address the angst. Since losing her home near the Trinity Alps in a 2021 wildfire, Ana Alanis, a Climate Farm School alumna, has worked to raise awareness around the mental toll of the climate crisis.
“My hope for today,” she said, “is to create some space for the value of climate emotions” — the fear, anger, anxiety and other feelings brought on by climate change. One classmate spoke of a recent, intense conversation she’d had with her husband, who agreed with her that the planet was in trouble but did not agree that this trend could be reversed. She found herself reflecting on “what does that mean for us, for our planet, for our lives, thinking there’s nothing we can do.”
The woman looked forward to grappling with those questions at Climate Farm School, she said, because she was confident “people here would help me work through it. And you have.”
Carley Hauck, the author and self-described “truth-teller,” wasn’t bashful about sharing her opinion that things are going to get much worse before they get better.
“There’s going to be a hell of a lot more suffering before we really wake up and make a lot of changes.” More people will have perished, she predicted, and more species will have died off.
“And I feel rage. Why are we not waking up? Why are we making this so much harder than it has to be?”
She explained that she doesn’t “shush” the part of her that’s in touch with her rage. “I have to move it. I have to pound pillows, swim, yell.” Once she’s past it, she said, “I can move into fierce, compassionate action.”
On the last full day of school, it was time to focus on “models of transformation” designed to give students hope, or at least “pause us from worrying,” explained Siegler. Friday’s model was Wanda Stewart, a highly respected food justice activist, urban farmer, community builder and legendary gardener in the East Bay.
One of her titles now is executive director of Common Vision, a nonprofit committed to planting fruit tree orchards and gardens at low-income schools. Stewart has helped with countless gardens, none more glorious than the sprawling, thriving victory garden at Hoover Elementary School in west Oakland. Starting in 2015, students transformed what had been a dirt patch to a 10,000-square-foot garden space.
East Bay school garden pioneer Wanda Stewart leads an afternoon session alongside founder Laney Siegner. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
In her first week at Hoover, Stewart recalled in 2020, “a sweet first-grade boy was having a temper tantrum. He looked me in the eye and threw the chair across the room. When I asked him why he did that, he said, ‘I’m hungry.’ That’s when we got busy growing food for the kids, to show them they could grow their own food, to incorporate outdoor learning into their world, and most importantly to feed them.”
Food waste, we’d learned, is a global issue with widespread negative effects. Stewart told the story of how she and her allies were addressing it on a local level.
Around the time of the pandemic, the organic grocery delivery service Good Eggs in Oakland found itself in high demand. Business was so good, in fact, that they were discarding large amounts of high-end groceries. “In America, the better a business is doing, the less it cares about the trash it’s throwing away,” said Stewart.
Good Eggs invited Stewart and her fellow volunteers to take that food — sirloin steak, legs of lamb, organic whole chicken — and distribute it as they saw fit. “At first we started giving this food away at the gardens where we worked.” Then they started giving it to local public school students.
“We’re feeding the kids who had the least, the food of those who had the most,” says Stewart. She believes that upgrade in nutrition makes them better students. “Because they’re not coming to class hopped up on what the school district feeds them.”
She has told administrators at the district, “You gotta stop feeding the kids crap now. We’re giving them brioche hot dogs, y’all are giving ’em cardboard.”
To help us truly internalize our lessons on regenerative agriculture, chefs Maggie Cely and Megan Wang — on loan from Brooklyn’s Rule of Thirds restaurant and Saraghina Bakery, respectively — prepared meals with ingredients from Green Valley Farm, including sublime yogurt from the cows who sometimes greeted us but mostly ignored us as we strolled past each morning.
On the final night of farm school, sitting at tables underneath the arbor, Stewart, the food justice warrior, buttonholed Richardson, the Point Blue soil specialist. She was preparing to apply for some grants, and wondered how she might measure carbon sequestration for the school gardens in which she works — “where we’re mulching on top of asphalt.”
“On top of asphalt? I don’t get that,” said Richardson.
“We have large spaces where there’s nothing but asphalt,” Stewart explained. Rather than tear the asphalt out, which is prohibitively expensive, “we put down cardboard and mulch and mulch and mulch across the years.”
Richardson lit up. Now that he understood, he had a number of suggestions, on which he expounded in a quintessentially Climate Farm School exchange.
In the gloaming after dinner, students and instructors sat around a firepit to reflect. One student said the highlight of the week was hearing of Wanda Stewart’s successes in urban school gardens. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
In the gloaming after dinner, students and instructors sat around a fire pit to reflect. One student said the highlight of the week was hearing of Stewart’s successes in urban school gardens. Her own emerging interest was in how she might get involved in a similar movement near her home in the Northwest, “working with kids, helping them realize how good food can be, where it comes from, and how they can be a part of it.”
“Try Black Futures Farm in Portland,” Stewart suggested from across the table. “And I got a name for you in Washington.”
Khadine Singh, the Google executive from San Francisco, also listed time with Stewart as a highlight. “I think we can’t have this discussion” about reforming systems “without talking about food justice.” Without Stewart’s talk, she said, Climate Farm School would’ve felt incomplete.
Singh said her week on the farm had deepened her connection to the land. “The more we take care of the earth, the more we take care of ourselves,” she said, before adding a sobering note. “The planet’s going to be fine… The earth will right itself. We’re just trying to make sure we can live on it.”
For more information on the local farmers sharing land at Green Valley Farm + Mill in Sebastopol, visit gvfam.com. Climate Farm School runs programs at Green Valley Farm + Mill a few times a year, in addition to programs at other farms in the U.S. and Europe. For a schedule, visit climatefarmschool.org.
Ready to tie the knot but don’t want to spend a year planning a grand, expensive wedding? Car rental site Sixt recently released a list of the top 50 places to elope in the U.S., and the town of Sonoma ranked supreme.
The Sixt article cited a national survey that found 62% of engaged couples are considering an elopement. To narrow down the search for those wanting to get hitched quick, Sixt based its selection on average cost and number of planners, officiants, photographers and videographers.
Located in the heart of Wine Country, Sonoma leads the pack when it comes to the “most popular and accommodating place to elope,” according to Sixt. The article noted the area’s 80-plus venues, hundreds of wedding planning professionals and gorgeous scenery as the prime reasons to elope in Sonoma.
According to Forbes, the average cost of a wedding in the U.S. in 2024 is $33,000. Sixt noted eloping in Sonoma would cost about a third of that figure, stating “the average spend is about $11,693 in this area for a wedding of 50 people.”
Napa came in at No. 5 on Sixt’s list, noted for “Napa Valley’s picturesque setting” amid lush, vibrant vineyards. Two locations in Colorado and a city in Massachusetts rounded out the top five of the list of 50 best elopement destinations.
The pool area at The Lodge at Sonoma Resort. (Courtesy of The Lodge at Sonoma)Wit & Wisdom restaurant’s outdoor patio at The Lodge at Sonoma Resort in Sonoma. (The Lodge at Sonoma, Autograph Collection)
The Venue
So where should you spend your wedding in the historic town of Sonoma? Wedding magazine The Knot highlights Sonoma venues such as The Lodge at Sonoma Resort, Cornerstone Sonoma and Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa, among others. Beltane Ranch in nearby Glen Ellen also makes for a charming farm wedding.
The Lodge at Sonoma Resort is a two-time Best of Weddings pick in The Knot. Wed under the resort’s 400-year-old Heritage Oak or inside the late 1800s-era Stone Building for a charming, intimate celebration. 1325 Broadway at Leveroni & Napa roads, Sonoma, 707-935-6600, thelodgeatsonoma.com
Cornerstone Sonoma is in The Knot’s Best of Weddings Hall of Fame, featuring its Lilly Pond Lawn for lovely outdoor ceremonies, the Garden Barn and Patio for a reception of dancing and cocktails, and its Michelin Bib Gourmand-awarded Folktable for an elegant dining experience. 23570 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-933-3010, cornerstonesonoma.com
An outdoor seating area at Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa in Sonoma. (Courtesy Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa)
Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa features a number of indoor and outdoor wedding venues as well as an onsite seasonal banquet menu. The Inn also has a “We Can’t Wait” wedding package that’s ideal for elopements — complete with an intimate ceremony (up to 10 guests) on the Creekside Lawn as well as a professional wedding coordinator, officiant, guitar or harp accompaniment, sparkling wine sabering and toast, take-away wedding cake and other optional enhancements. Add on a romantic outdoor dinner from the onsite Santé restaurant. 100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma, 707-939-2411, fairmont.com/sonoma
The Caterer
If you prefer the catering route as opposed to venue restaurants, Sally Tomatoes Catering & Events was voted as the county’s Best Caterer in The Press Democrat’s readers’ choice awards for 2024. The Rohnert Park-based caterer features a full-service catering menu as well as five events spaces, from a 1-acre redwood grove to a cozy fireside lounge. Each venue can be outfitted with special lighting, audio and video screens.
Spring sky lupines create a carpet of color from the ashes of Sonoma Valley Regional Park in Glen Ellen. Photographed Wednesday, March 28, 2018. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
West Wine Tours offer wedding packages that include vintage photo ops. (Courtesy West Wine Tours)
The Wedding Photo
For beautiful wedding photos, the Sixt article highlights the scenic vistas at North Sonoma Mountain Regional Park, which is actually located on Sonoma Mountain Road in Santa Rosa.
For a picturesque wedding photo backdrop a little closer to your Sonoma venue, check out Sonoma Valley Regional Park in Glen Ellen. The park features flower-studded rolling hills, the big blue Suttonfield Lake and views of the Mayacamas from Cougar Trail.
Sonoma’s MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa received two separate four-star ratings from Forbes: one for the entire property and another for the recently refurbished Spa at MacArthur. (MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa)
The Sunset article profiles eight properties from Northern California to Mexico. Locales from the Golden State comprise a majority of the list and a trio of the standout hotels are in Sonoma County.
Harmon Guest House, Healdsburg
“Located in downtown Healdsburg, Harmon Guest House embodies the eco-chic charm that draws visitors year after year to the heart of Sonoma’s Wine Country,” stated the Sunset article.
A king room at Harmon Guest House in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Harmon Guest House)
Harmon Guest House embraces its Sonoma County backyard, consistently giving local residents reasons to visit — even if they don’t have the budget or time to spend the night.
A temporary mural by local artist Maria de Los Angeles debuted at the hotel late last month. Raised in Santa Rosa, the artist worked with the public to create the mural via a series of workshops. The mural and artwork from the community gatherings will be on view at Harmon Guest House through Nov. 15.227 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-922-5449, harmonguesthouse.com
MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa, Sonoma
Cultural experiences, including a robust artist-in-residence program, helped Sonoma’s historic MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa earn a spot on Sunset’s Wine Country go-to list.
The new pool area at MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa in Sonoma. (Courtesy of MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa)
Fresh off a multi-year renovation, MacArthur Place features a new pool and hot tub amid its picturesque gardens. It’s a great option for a daycation. Day passes to lounge alongside the sparkling new beauties start at $109 on ResortPass. 29 E. MacArthur St., Sonoma, 707-938-2929, macarthurplace.com
Dawn Ranch, Guerneville
The unique offerings at Dawn Ranch in Guerneville helped the Russian River property secure its spot in the Wine Country Escape category.
The Sunset story noted, “Amenities like Fender guitars and Swarovski binoculars make for a delightful rustic luxe reset.” And then, of course, there’s a dreamy spa, and the property’s namesake, a pair of rare dawn redwoods. 16467 California 116, Guerneville, 707-869-0656, dawnranch.com
A Fender guitar in a room at Dawn Ranch in Guerneville. (Courtesy of Dawn Ranch)
Poetry Inn, Napa
Perhaps somewhat surprisingly, Poetry Inn was the only Napa Valley property included on Sunset’s favorite Wine Country hotels list. All five suites at the adults-only property boast postcard-worthy views of the valley. 6380 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-944-0646, poetryinn.com
Crab cakes and seared steak with sides of fries, salad and coleslaw from the dinner menu at Americana in Santa Rosa, April 13, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
People ask me about my favorite Sonoma County restaurants daily — and it still throws me. I freeze for a minute while the mental Rolodex fires up, get nervous about what stupid answer I might give, forget what we were talking about and dive into a missive on the latest restaurant. That’s a work question, loaded with qualifications and tangents.
No one asks about the restaurants I go to when I’m not working. The restaurants where I have a standing order, go with friends or take my family. As a Santa Rosa resident, I have my favorites and personal “Best Of” list. These aren’t the Michelin haunts, just everyday hometown picks I return to again and again.
Pizza: NY Pie
When it reopened in August, NY Pie had me at the hand-tossed crust and housemade Ranch dressing. New owners Doug Lyons and Freddie Peña did New Yorkers proud with their hand-tossed pizzas and giant cheese slices for $5.25. Though there are some gussied up pies in the lineup, mostly they’re Friday night noshers with beer and Netflix. 65 Brookwood Ave., 707-526-9743, nypie.pizza
Happy Hour: Belly Left Coast Kitchen & Taproom
Park yourself in the outside parklet and enjoy the sights and sounds of Fourth Street before dark. Happy hour margaritas and Moscow mules are $10, and I’m a frequent flyer on the elote skillet with street corn and tortilla chips for $9. 534 Fourth St., 707-526-5787, bellyleftcoastkitchenandtaproom.com
The enormous Lasagna with a Stagionale salad of arugula, roasted butternut squash puree, sliced almonds., topped with pecorino cheese, in an orange mustard and Extra Virgin Olive Oil dressing from L’oro di Napoli in downtown Santa Rosa March 24, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Italian: L’Oro di Napoli
Their Neopolitan-style pizzas have thin centers and signature charred crusts that need little more than a few toppings, and the margherita is a winner. I come for the deep-dish lasagna with layer after layer of thick pasta, Bolognese, Béchamel and San Marzano tomato sauce. Sitting upstairs is cozy and intimate, perfect for a date night. 629 Fourth St., 707-541-6394, lorodinapolisantarosa.com
Mexican: Sebastopol Road, Roseland
I’m all for neighborhood taquerias, but if you want real tlyuda, quesabirria, tacos, churros, chamoy and elote, you need to explore this Roseland thoroughfare. You’ll get many opinions about the best stuff, but I’m a fan of La Texanita, La Fondita, El Roy’s and Gio y Los Magos.
Pub Food: Goose and Fern
Where else can you get shepherd’s pie, sausage rolls or bangers and mash with a side of curry sauce? Fun and friendly with excellent food. 116 Fifth St., 707-843-4235, thegooseandfern.com
Meiomei Chardonnay with House-Smoked Salmon Latkes Benedict from the new J & M’s Midtown Café Oct. 23, 2023, in Santa Rosa. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Breakfast: J & M’s Midtown Cafe
The Hollandaise. Bella Rosa coffee. Chilaquiles. Diner food with a chef’s touch. 1422 Fourth St., 707-545-2233, jm-midtowncafe.com
Brunch: Americana
It’s everything right with America — fried chicken, country gravy, eggs and home fries piled onto a plate. God bless the USA. 205 Fifth St., 707-755-1548, americanasonomacounty.com
Lunch: Zoftig
I promise myself I’ll get something other than the falafel wrap, but cave at the last moment. It somehow feels filling and healthy at the same time because, hey, it has hummus and vegetables and tahini sauce. 57 Montgomery Drive, 707-521-9554, zoftigeatery.com
Beef Cheek Bourguignon with classic garni and pommes purée from Augie’s French Tuesday, Nov. 28, 2023 on Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Special Occasion: Augie’s
Classy yet casual, this downtown French bistro just ticks all the boxes. Luxe décor, warm baguettes, refined cocktails and continental classics like Boeuf Bourguignon. 535 Fourth St., 707-531-4400, augiesfrench.com
Coffee: Brew Coffee, Tea and Beer
I always find new art, health concoctions, coffee drinks and hard ciders at this neighborhood gathering spot. The Rainbow Toast is my go-to; my only complaint is that the best seats get snapped up early. 555 Healdsburg Ave., 707-303-7372, brewcoffeeandbeer.com
Burger: Superburger
The fancy-pantsy restaurant burgers are great, but this is my go-to for a down-and-delish fat patty with all the fixins. Great chocolate malts and tater tots seal the deal. 1501 Fourth St., 707-546-4016, originalsuperburger.com
The Crebble: croissant dough rolled in maple sugar and sea salt from Marla SR Bakery and Cafe Nov. 16, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Bakery: Marla
Crebbles (knotted croissant dough baked with maple sugar and sea salt) were my gateway drug to the Santa Rosa cafe. Then came the dark chocolate brownies, baguettes, walnut boules and chai lattes to hook me. Now Fried Chicken Frydays, pop-up pizza parties, seasonal dinners and the promise of chicken shawarma keep me coming back. 208 Davis St., 707-852-4091, marlabakery.com
Deli: Grossman’s
The closest you’ll come to a proper Jewish deli in Sonoma County. Bagels, bread and babka are baked in-house (the cheesy Khachapuri bread is a fave), and the sabich board with fried eggplant, falafel, pickled cabbage and piles of other Middle Eastern-inspired dips and sauces come with still-hot pita bread. 308 Wilson St., 707-595-7707, grossmanssr.com
Brewery: Cooperage
An ever-changing lineup of food trucks, my favorite sour beers (and beer slushies), trivia nights and incredible murals. Save me a seat. 981 Airway Court, Suite G, 707-293-9787, cooperagebrewing.com
Sushi: Kiraku
Nothing too fancy, but where I go for California rolls, veggie tempura and tonkatsu ramen with a girlfriend. Robot servers and race car sushi delivery are adorable. 1985 Mendocino Ave., 707-800-7699, kirakullc.com
The spacious lobby at Hotel E beckons visitors and guests to relax and sample wines at the Enology Wine Lounge on the main floor of 37 Old Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Hotel E)
Downtown Santa Rosa is in the heart of Sonoma Wine Country, yet until 2012, wine lovers couldn’t find a tasting room there. That’s the year city zoning regulations finally changed, and Ancient Oak Cellars was able to open a small space inside Corrick’s Stationery Store on Fourth Street.
That tasting room is long gone (the winery continues to produce wine), and it can still be a challenge to find wine lounges in the area anchored by Historic Railroad Square and Old Courthouse Square.
But if you know where to go, flights of fanciful wines can be sampled. As an added bonus, these tasting rooms are all within walking distance, so no driving arrangements are needed.
Just double check tasting prices and hours while making arrangements — as those tend to change.
For a reasonable $30, you get five wines, each paired with an array of nibbles that might include chocolate blueberries with a HammerTime Red Wine Blend, and Skazka black sturgeon caviar with a sparkling cuvée at Santa Rosa’s Stonemason Cellars. (Courtesy of Stonemason Cellars)The Stonemason Cellars brick building is tucked on the corner of Davis and Fifth streets a few blocks from Santa Rosa’s Historic Railroad Square. (Courtesy of Stonemason Cellars)
Stonemason Cellars
Seek out the brick building tucked on the corner of Davis and Fifth streets a few blocks from Historic Railroad Square, and you’ll find a new, slate rock trimmed tasting room with a couple of nice surprises awaiting.
First, for a reasonable $30, you get five wines, each paired with an array of nibbles that might include chocolate blueberries with a Hammer Time Red Wine Blend, and Skazka black sturgeon caviar with a sparkling cuvée.
Second, Stonemason is open until 7 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and until 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday, which is late by tasting room standards.
Husband-and-wife team Timothy “T.J.” and Francesca Elam launched their label in 2019, then debuted their tasting space late last year. Working with French-born winemaker Maxime Gautier, the Elams focus on small-batch — as few as four barrels — Sonoma County reds. But they also craft a light, tropical “Elevate” blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, plus an elegant, Provence-style Russian River Valley Rosé.
4th Street Cellars in downtown Santa Rosa’s historic Railroad Square on Sept. 26, 2024. (Maci Martell / Sonoma Magazine)
4th Street Cellars
This fashionable, two-story party place, mere steps from Railroad Square, beckons with late hours including live music until 8 p.m. on Thursdays, and 9 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.
You can kick back in the restored, century-old salon and navigate an array of wines in front of a gas fireplace, or sip on the patio with a BYOB picnic (tip: Jackson’s Bar and Oven on the corner fires up top-notch wood oven pizzas for takeout).
Lounge owner and third generation grower-winemaker John Bambury features his Bonneau, Egret and Opal Moon labels, ranging from familiar Sonoma County red and white varietals to a plush Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
Make sure to ask about the steely dry 2019 Los Carneros Bonneau Blanc de Blanc done in the méthode champenoise style and aged for four years.
While not technically a tasting room, Wilibees Wine & Spirits checks the boxes with $20 wine flights, fancy sandwiches, cheeseboards and charcuterie. (Courtesy of Wilibees Wine & Spirits)
Wilibees Wines & Spirits
Ok, it’s not technically a tasting room, but the retail store, wine bar and gourmet deli checks the boxes with $20 wine flights, each tempting with four pours in themed varietals of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and “others.” Pinkies in the air, too, for the $35 sparkling flight of three French and Northern California bubblies.
You can also savor 30-plus local and global wines by the glass, and if you get there between 4 and 6 p.m. daily, you’ll find a featured red and white happy hour steal at just $5 a glass.
Make a meal of your visit. You can grab a bottle from the amply laden shelves, and for a $5 corkage fee, enjoy it alongside fancy sandwiches (the prosciutto, Brie, fig jam and farmer’s greens is excellent), salads (like a toss of greens, cucumber, tomato, red onion, chickpeas, olives, goat cheese and lemon juice), or flatbreads (go for the mouthwatering warm pastrami, Swiss, pepperoncini and spicy mayo combo).
Partner-owners Vikram Badhan and Gagan Boparai also send out boutique-local cheese boards, and a Journeyman Healdsburg charcuterie board laden with indulgently spiced (and some wine-kissed) salami.
700 Third St., Santa Rosa, 707-978-3779, wilibees.com
The spacious lobby at Hotel E beckons visitors and guests to relax and sample wines at the Enology Wine Lounge on the main floor of 37 Old Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Hotel E)
Enology Wine Lounge
The lobby wine bar in Hotel E overlooking Old Courthouse Square is kind of loosey-goosey. Much of the menu is from the Wilson Artisan Wines collection, with some other purveyors dappled in. But then, Wilson does operate 11 facilities across Sonoma and Mendocino counties, so you’ll probably find something you like. Just know you can’t see the wine list until you show up, since front desk agents confirm it does not exist online.
But roll the dice, and take a painless peek by going during happy hour from 5 to 7 p.m., featuring complimentary tastings. Happy hour is daily, though that, too, is subject to change — and isn’t the adventure part of the fun of exploring wine?
While the article noted that the county boasts “some of the country’s best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay,” it looked more to its rich history and landmarks, 55-plus miles of pristine coastline and ecologically diverse inland landscapes.
Many Sonoma County towns are known for their early settler history and old-school Americana vibes. From the 19th-century Spanish missions dotting the town of Sonoma, the birthplace of the state’s “bear flag,” to the quaint, historic businesses in downtown Petaluma that look like something out of a Norman Rockwell painting.
Salute to American Graffiti, Petaluma’s annual tribute to classic cars and cruisin’ the Boulevard, returned on Saturday, May 18, 2024, to the historic downtown. The event delighted car-culture fans and casual onlookers alike. (Scott Hess/for the Argus-Courier)
These charming old buildings explain why the county has long been a place for Hollywood to camp out and film for period pieces like “American Graffiti” and “Peggy Sue Got Married.” Not to mention the dazzling shots of local rivers, forests, vineyards and coastal areas seen in such films as “The Birds,” “The Goonies” and “Bottle Shock,” among many others.
The Travel + Leisure article also points to the “many small, friendly towns” that may be lesser known nationally, like artsy Sebastopol, “bucolic culinary destination Glen Ellen” and “architecturally significant ’60s-era Sea Ranch.”
The Sebastopol Center for the Arts runs the beloved annual Sonoma County Art Trails. Sebastopol is also home to whimsical “junk artist” Patrick Amiot and his avenue of saved-from-the-landfill, repurposed artwork.
Patrick Amiot’s distinctive sculptures decorate Florence Avenue in Sebastopol. (Rebecca Chotkowski)Margherita Pizza served at Glen Ellen Star in Glen Ellen. (Crista Jeremiason/The Press Democrat)
The best time of year to visit the beautiful, culinary hotspot of Sonoma County — by way of the Charles M. Schulz–Sonoma County Airport, the Travel + Leisure article suggests — is during the colorful harvest season in fall. Though the mustard season of spring makes for great photos, and the local beaches offer cool respite during summer.
Among the places to stay, the travel article recommends Forestville’s Farmhouse Inn (which has an impressive restaurant), Montage Healdsburg, Harmon Guest House, The Lodge at Sonoma Resort and The Sea Ranch Lodge.
Lunch patrons enjoy a magnificent view of vineyards, flowers and hillsides at Rustic at Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville. The restaurant has won Best Outdoor Dining in Sonoma County. Sept. 15, 2017. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Out of over 400 wineries in the county, the travel article highlights Gundlach Bundschu in Sonoma, Vérité Winery in Healdsburg, Bricoleur Vineyards in Windsor and Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville, among others.
Looking for more places to sip, eat, play and stay in Sonoma County?
The historic Harbor House Inn in Elk was built in 1916 and updated this year with a $10 million remodel. Guests can relax on the dinning room deck with stunning views of the sea stacks and their caves. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The picturesque town of Mendocino has long been considered a top-spot for an idyllic coastal getaway, but when was the last time you took a left on Highway 1 at the Navarro River Bridge and visited Elk?
If you have to stop and think about it, it’s time to get a trip on the calendar.
Too often overlooked by travelers making a beeline to the village of Mendocino, Elk was recently featured on Travel + Leisure’s website as a destination “making a name for itself in the food and wine world.”
Journalist Evie Carrick wrote about the community’s driftwood-strewn Greenwood State Beach, the noteworthy restaurants and charming places to stay in her Sept. 5 travel article.
The tiny town of Elk is located along Highway 1 in Mendocino County. (Courtesy of Dana Rebmann)
Visitors come from around the world to play in our beautiful Northern California backyard — stories like this are a good reminder that lucky residents should be taking advantage and doing the same.
Elk is tiny. A road sign along Highway 1 puts its population at 250, but locals have doubted the accuracy of the seemingly high number, jokingly questioning where all those folks live. If you blink while driving through the coastal enclave, you might miss its timeless charm. But if you park the car and go for a stroll, the town has a way of winning you over.
The story highlights new businesses making a name for themselves alongside community fixtures in Elk, like The Harbor House Inn. And car rental site Sixt recently ranked the inn as the No. 1 foodie getaway on its list of top Michelin-star restaurants worth the drive.
Built in 1916, the coastal property reopened in 2018 after an eight-year restoration. The 11-room Harbor House Inn is home to the first and only two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Mendocino County. Chef Matthew Kammerer’s tasting menus are seafood focused and hyperlocal. A majority of the produce on the menu is grown at the inn’s offsite farm. Ranch hands also raise cattle, goats and chickens.
Summer squash, green garlic, preserved lemon and fava from chef Matt Kammerer at the Harbor House Inn in Elk along the Mendocino coast. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)A guestroom at Elk’s Sacred Rock Inn, formerly The Griffin House and The Greenwood Pier Inn. (Courtesy of Jesse Cudworth)
Minutes down the road, Sacred Rock Inn is the newcomer in town. Formerly The Griffin House and The Greenwood Pier Inn, there are 19 accommodations ranging from a stand-alone Victorian home with four bedrooms, to suites with private decks overlooking the ocean, to pet-friendly garden cottages.
Executive chef Ryan Seal oversees the pair of restaurants at Sacred Rock Inn. Open for dinner only, Greenwood Restaurant offers an upscale dining experience Friday through Tuesday. Selections might include Mexican Street Corn Pasta and Mendocino Black Cod. Elk House offers a more casual experience for breakfast and lunch. We recommend the Reuben Grilled Sausage Roll and spicy michelada.
It’s easy to happily lose a day on secluded Greenwood State Beach. Janky driftwood shacks compete with the rolling surf for your eyes’ attention. Dogs on leash are welcome to put their paws in the sand here. There’s also a charger for electric vehicles at the beach entrance.
Greenwood State Beach in Elk. (Courtesy of Dana Rebmann)
Grab supplies for a picnic from The Elk Store; the deli offers hot and cold sandwiches, as well as craft beer and wine. From there it’s just a few steps to Matson Mercantile and the Artists’ Collective in Elk. If you visit on a weekend, pop into the Greenwood State Visitor Center Museum. The former post office now houses local artifacts and information on the history of Elk.
Wine enthusiasts looking to find a new favorite can make the 30- to 40-minute drive to Anderson Valley for a plethora of tasting options at wineries, including Pennyroyal Farm, Foursight Wines and Navarro Vineyards.
Sonoma Beef Burger with onion rings, fried chicken burger, chili fries and Cajun fries at Acme Burger in Cotati. (Heather Irwin/PD)
Khao Soi Thai Zen is now open at 1169 Yulupa Ave. in Santa Rosa. The hotly-anticipated restaurant serves a mix of Thai, Japanese and Chinese dishes.
What’s got our attention: Tom Kha and Tom Yum hot pot soup and Khao Soi, a yellow curry with fried noodles, pickled mustard leaves and steamed egg noodles. Details at khaosoithaizensantarosa.com.