For a generation of Santa Rosans, NY Pie was a staple of post-baseball game gatherings, family dinners, Friday night takeout and maybe even a date or two. So, fans were disappointed when the restaurant closed in late 2023 after nearly two decades.
In early January, new owners Doug Lyons and Freddie Peña promised NY Pie would return soon. Seven months later, the neighborhood pizzeria is back and better than ever.
Lyons is almost constantly in the restaurant, doing double duty as a server, busser and bartender. Raised on the East Coast, he knows plenty about New York-style pizza, even if he’s not a chef. After years in the business world, he’s made it his mission to improve the restaurant’s recipes, upgrading everything from the flour and cheese to the housemade tomato sauce.
“It’s the crisp undercarriage — not too thick — with a chewy crust with a little rise. You have to have the right cheese-to-sauce ratio, not too much or too little. And you have to fold it,” said Lyons.
Every New Yorker worth their salt knows that the only way to eat a slice is to fold it in half. Otherwise, you’ll have a lap full of cheese and sauce because the bottom crust is intentionally thin.
Lyons and Peña, a lifelong local, were both former customers and jumped at the chance to take over the pizzeria from the previous owners.
“I knew we wanted to keep the good historical aspects of NY Pie and elevate it,” said Lyons.
Peña enjoys hearing people’s memories of the pizzeria, which opened in 2002.
“Someone said they had their wedding reception here, and many New Yorkers have commented on how authentic it is. I’m just thankful that people are still in love with it and saying it’s better than ever,” he said.
Peña owns Windsor Fitness and is a retired Santa Rosa police officer.
“We have the police department coming in a lot,” he said.
Peña and Lyons overhauled the restaurant, giving it a fresher feel with new furniture and décor. If you’re lucky, you may hear the click-clack of a nostalgic split-flap Solari board turned beer menu — a nod to the arrival and departure board at Grand Central Terminal.
Longtime customers will recognize most of the pizza combinations, given different names. The former Godfather, with red sauce, mozzarella, pepperoni, sausage and artichoke hearts, is now the Longfellow Avenue. Instead of the Smelly Hockey Player, the mozzarella, garlic, onion and anchovy pie is the Union Square. Some specialty pies are more California than New York, including the Fulton St., with an olive oil-brushed crust, sauteed mushrooms, goat cheese and lemon zest.
“We’re always New York, but we live in California so we are going to lean into seasonality with specialty pizzas,” said Lyons.
The restaurant sells slices, a quarter of a whole pie, throughout the day (a cheese slice is $5.25), and the lineup includes at least six different flavors. It’s a far cry from the early days of NY Pie when owner R.J. Iervolino refused to sell slices for a reason only he understood.
Wings, salads and garlic knots are also available, and the housemade ranch (all of the sauces and dressings are made at the restaurant) is a necessary (and wholly encouraged) condiment. In fact, at NY Pie, you can pour as much darn ranch, hot honey, chili flakes and Parmesan on your pizza as you want with absolutely no side-eye from a horrified pizzaiolo.
“As a local, I know the history, the following and how great it has been. I truly believe we’re here to stay. Local folks I know are really supportive and thankful NY Pie is still here,” said Peña. “I think together we’ve made it better. ”
NY Pie is at 65 Brookwood Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-526-9743. The hours are currently noon to 10 p.m. Sunday, Wednesday and Thursday and noon to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. The restaurant is closed Monday and Tuesday. Expanded hours will be announced soon.