Obsidian Wine Company’s new tasting room is set smack in the middle of the historic Sonoma Plaza, yet it somehow manages to convey an off-the-beaten-path vibe. That’s fitting for renegade vintners who pride themselves on operating outside the box — from planting a vineyard on a ridge of solid obsidian glass to coopering their own barrels in Hungary to creating unconventional wines to complement the classics.
The story
Brothers Arpad and Peter Molnar cofounded the winery with Michael Terrien more than two decades ago after planting a vineyard at the site of an abandoned walnut orchard in Lake County. The Obsidian Ridge vineyard sits on a volcano, dotted with huge boulders of black obsidian. If that sounds extreme, there’s a good reason: It is!
Though the winery is based in Sonoma, the original vineyard remains a focus for the Obsidian brand. In 2020, Obsidian Wine Co. embarked on a new adventure with its Rabbit Hole program, dedicated to experimental winemaking and uncommon varieties.
The vibe
Base Camp is set 50 feet back from the square, between Chateau Sonoma and Sign of the Bear. Step into the Japanese-style garden, past the giant obsidian boulder “imported” from Lake County, and you’ll find a mini oasis.
The tasting room has an indoor-outdoor feel, with open, airy spaces, lots of natural light and a fenced patio filled with native trees and plants. The garden’s coolest feature is a fire pit made from a huge chunk of — you guessed it — obsidian. Inside, a wall-sized video installation provides a virtual visit to Obsidian Ridge — with the occasional lizard scuttling across the rocks.
On the palate
Looking for classic varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay? Or do you like your wines a little on the wild side, with “natural” leanings and lesser-known grape varieties taking center stage? Obsidian swings both ways.
Choose from three themed flights ($30-$50), including the Base Camp tasting — a mix of wines from Lake County and Carneros — an all-Cabernet flight, and the Down the Rabbit Hole tasting of experimental wines.
Among the classic lineup, the Obsidian 2023 Estate Chardonnay ($35) from the Molnar family’s Poseidon vineyard in Carneros is a bright, herbaceous beauty with mineral notes. The deeply colored 2021 Half Mile Cabernet Sauvignon ($80) — named for this particular block’s location halfway up the volcano — showcases the winery’s Lake County vineyard. It’s juicy and delicious, with plummy fruit flavor and a firm tannic structure.
If you’re tasting with friends, make sure at least one of you opts for the Rabbit Hole flight; that’s where the fun is. I love the Pear Blanc ($18 per half bottle), a sparkling blend of Sauvignon Blanc grapes and Lake County pear juice. With a name that translates to “tongue twister,” the “Virelangue” Picpoul-Bourboulenc smells like fresh melons and has a round texture to match — yet the white blend has a refreshing zing of acidity.
Beyond the bottles
There’s plenty to see and do on the Sonoma Plaza, but if you fancy a sweet treat away from the tourist throngs, take a six-minute drive to La Michoacana in Boyes Hot Springs. This family-owned Mexican ice cream shop is the place to go for flavors like coconut-pineapple and rose petal, plus paletas (frozen fruit pops) studded with chunks of fresh mango, guava and pineapple. Not ready for dessert just yet? Stop by El Molino Central for yummy tamales and fish tacos.
Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.