Valentine’s Day is almost upon us, and…oh no, you don’t have a plan, right? Don’t fret, because there are both fine dining and casual options (like beer and waffles) for every type of couple, gal pal group or squad. Note that you will require a reservation for most, and don’t wait because Valentine’s Day is one of the most popular days to dine out. Click through the above gallery for details.
Recommendations by Kathleen Hill (KH), Heather Irwin (HI), and Houston Porter (HP).
A chicken is on the run. We’re not talking about the feathery, poultry kind but a big hoppy one. And now is your chance to catch it.
This Thursday, Feb. 6, marks the eighth annual release of Henhouse Brewing Company’s Big Chicken double IPA. As we speak, Bay Area beer enthusiasts are getting ready to seek out the rare bird.
Like Russian River Brewing Company’s Pliny the Younger, Big Chicken is a limited- and controlled-release beer. Unlike “Younger,” which is available during a two-week period each February, Big Chicken is only available up to three days in February. The beer’s unusually high hop content (twelve pounds per barrel) makes it a fragile brew that perishes fast — this is the reason it is brewed, kegged and tapped in a single day.
“Big Chicken is the extreme of our focus on freshness,” said Henhouse Brewing Company’s president Scott Goyne. “Beer is a far more perishable product than most folks realize — hop flavor and aroma degrade fast — so it’s important to drink hoppy beer in its short window of freshness.”
The coveted brew usually runs out within two days, which leaves only a small window to get a taste. Its limited availability only adds to its allure, as is the case with Pliny the Younger, a publicity stunt both Russian River Brewing Company and Henhouse Brewing Company have leveraged to their advantage.
This year, Big Chicken will be available at HenHouse’s Santa Rosa and Petaluma taprooms, Feb. 6 to Feb. 8. Both tasting rooms will be open 2 p.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday and Friday. (There is a two four-pack per person, per day allotment, as well as two 14-ounce pours per person, per day).
Big Chicken will also be available in the following locations:
Calling all lovebirds. These Sonoma County boutique hotels offer a mix of ambiance and amenities that is sure to keep the spark alive. Pair your stay with heart-pounding hikes, gourmet breakfasts in bed, and invigorating massages, and you’ve got yourself a real romantic deal.
Russian River Brewing Company owner Natalie Cilurzo offers a test of Pliny the Younger to the photographer before the release in Santa Rosa on Friday. (JOHN BURGESS / The Press Democrat)
Santa Rosa, the urban center of Sonoma County, may not be the first item on Wine Country itineraries but, to the savvy visitor, this North Coast city offers more than meets the eye.
This is the kind of place where natural bounty serves as a muse for utopian dreams, where sleepy residential streets hide ambitious farm-to-table kitchens, abandoned buildings are resurrected as art galleries, and the corner coffeeshop turns nightlife hot spot with craft beers on tap, all to the rhythm of Americana and bluegrass. Best of all, Santa Rosa can easily be explored by bike or by foot.
Click through the above gallery to explore (some of) the best Santa Rosa has to offer.
The Taqueria Molcajetes crew with Guy Fieri in 2018. (La Prensa Sonoma)
One of the owners of Guy Fieri favorite Taqueria Molcajetes (recently featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives) is taking over the former La Cantina in Rincon Valley. The large space, which features a full bar, is undergoing a brief rehab and should open sometime in mid-February as Los Molcajetes Bar and Grill. It’s a huge leap forward from the modest strip-mall spot, and we’re hoping they’ll have some of the same great Mexican food. Watch for the opening at 6599 Montecito Blvd #130 in Santa Rosa.
(Find more Guy Fieri favorites in Sonoma County here).
More dining news
Another Cafe Des Croissants has opened in Bennett Valley at the former Molly’s Bakery. It’s the fifth Sonoma County location for the local bakery famous for their freshly-made croissants. 2700 Yulupa Ave., #17, Santa Rosa.
And, moving into the former Pamposh space (52 Mission Circle, #110, Santa Rosa) is Cielito Lindo Mexican restaurant. No word on opening yet.
Winter cocktails Mixologist Kilo Munoz serving a Spirit Works Barrel Gin Old Fashioned The grain-to-glass operation within SebastopolÕs The Barlow, run by Ashby and Timo Marshall, Spirit Works does everything in house, from milling the grain to creating the mash to distilling its gin, vodka and sloe gin on site and aging some of it in barrel. Its gin is made from Hard Red Winter wheat infused with juniper berries and then a mix of botanicals, some of them traditional, some inspired by whatÕs possible in California, a bit of coriander, citrus and cardamom in the propriety blend for sure. With its Barrel Gin, wintery overtones of oaky darkness add depth and complexity to the citrus-laden botanicals. It goes down easy, simply, over ice, with bitters. 2 ounces Spirit Works Distillery Barrel Gin 2-3 dashes Angostura bitters sugar cube soda
Get spirited at the Wine Country Distillery Festival!
Sipson Spirits will be available at the event. (Heather Irwin)
You can taste these purveyors (and 11 more) of the very best Wine Country (and the North Bay) have to offer at the second annual Wine Country Distillery Festival on Feb. 8 at the Flamingo Hotel.
Hold onto your shot glass, because these aren’t bottom shelf guzzlers. They’re small-batch spirits often made with local ingredients, meticulous blending and aging and plenty of NorCal chutzpah to get clean, lively flavors.
Truffles from Fleur Sauvage will be available at the event. (Heather Irwin)
Other vendors include vodka pioneer Charbay, Humboldt Distillery, Rapscallion Spirits, Bodega Bay Rum, Falcon Spirits, Tamar Distillery, Raff Distillerie, Ginny’s Gin, Alley 6, Jaxon Keys, Barber Lee, Great Women Spirits, Straight Edge and No. 2009 Gin.
There also will be a host of other craft beverages like King Floyd’s bitters, Fick’s Hard Seltzer, Jardesca apertif and Monarch bitters. There’s more than just booze, though, with Sonoma Creamery, Renegade Food, Panizerra Meat and Fleur Sauvage chocolates and food trucks from Dino’s Greek Food, Jam’s Joy Bungalow and Wing Man.
Peche Melba crepe with preserved peach, berry jam, toasted almonds, chantilly cream with hard cider at Creperie Chez Solange in Larkfield. Heather Irwin/PD.
Philippe Colasse would like you to know that the crepes you eat at his new restaurant, Creperie Chez Solange in Larkfield, are as healthy as they are crispy and delicious.
Naturally, this is reassuring news, as the last bite of a dreamy crepe Suzette, slathered with sticky orange caramel and flaming Grand Marnier, balances on my fork. Take that, kale! I’m a health nut!
But before you go on an all-crepe cleanse, it’s actually the organic Giusto buckwheat flour in Colasse’s hearty savory crepes that may have some redeeming nutritional value — a gluten-free(ish) powerhouse of ancient seeds full of manganese, copper, fiber and protein. Add some vegetables, onions, goat cheese and herbs, and you’re a certified clean eater. Pair with quinoa and grilled chicken salad and you’re practically a food saint.
Crepes Suzette with Orange zest butter, caramel, orange juice and flambe Grand Marnier at Creperie Chez Solange in Larkfield. Heather Irwin/PD
For the hedonists among us, however, there are too many other delicious diversions at the Creperie to remain true to our already-failed New Year’s goals. Fillings like leek fondue, Jarlsberg cheese, sour cream or bacon lardons beckon to us. Sweet crepes made with chocolate ganache or caramel sauce, paired with a tempting lineup of ice creams, sing their siren calls to our hungry bellies. There’s also the traditional pairing with dry or off-dry cider, which Colasse encourages diners to try.
“Cider goes so perfectly with crepes, and in France that’s the way it’s done. You don’t eat crepes with beer or wine. Here in Sonoma County, there were apples here before grapes, so I’m bringing back the old ways,” said Colasse.
Colasse, who learned to cook in his homeland of France, is so passionate about making truly authentic crepes because he simply couldn’t find any he liked in Sonoma County. Here, they tend to be a bit rubbery or overly sweet, or, mon dieu, filled with something like peanut butter.
Nicoise salad at Creperie Chez Solange in Larkfield. Heather Irwin/PD
Authentic to Colasse, means there is no Nutella (clearly not peanut butter) in a savory, earthy buckwheat crepe or ham in a sweet, white flour crepe.
“I cannot imagine that,” Colasse said, rolling his eyes. The compact Frenchman has lived in Sonoma County for 14 years and bustles through the slender restaurant kitchen. As he expertly flambees a crepe Suzette with a quick flick of the wrist, a ball of fire and heat explode toward the large vented hood and he steps back.
“That is why I have no hair,” he laughed.
Colasse worked for years in French restaurants, then opened several notable Las Vegas restaurants and was the opening chef at Walter Hansel Wine Bistro. After spending several years raising his young daughter, Solange, he’s opened a snug, seven-table cafe in the Larkfield shopping center that’s become something of an international eating destination hosting Fililpino, American, French and Thai restaurants.
It’s a perfect fit, and Colasse makes the crispiest crepes around — which is appropriate since the word “crepe” is actually from the Latin Crispus (or crispy).
Inside the kitchen at at Creperie Chez Solange in Larkfield. Heather Irwin/PD.
Crepe-making is also theater, and diners get a front-row seat to the large “billigs,” or cast iron griddles where batter is poured onto the sizzling surface and gently formed with a T-shaped spatula. The dark buckwheat crepes are formed into loose squares with the toppings peeking through, while sweet crepes are folded into a triangle and topped with chocolate or stuffed with fruit.
Fortunately for all of us, Feb. 2 is “Jour des Crepes” in France, a day (or really a concept for any day) where eating crepes is a national obligation. Viva les crepes, and consider yourself an honorary Gaul.
Best Bets
Vacherin: Raspberry sorbet with vanilla meringue, berry jam, toasted almonds and Chantilly cream at Creperie Chez Solange in Larkfield. Heather Irwin/PD
Nicoise Salad, $9: “This tastes like summer,” said my friend, diving into a salad filled with black olives, haricot verts, bell pepper, preserved tuna, anchovies and hard-boiled eggs and drizzled with plenty of lemon olive oil. A favorite summer dish in Southern France, this version is salty and refreshing and absolutely beautiful.
Parma Salad, $9: Required. Pears, prosciutto, shaved Parmesan and toasted pine nuts.
Savory Crepes, or “galettes,” are made with buckwheat flour, salt and water. The stronger, earthier flavor of buckwheat is unusual, but the crispy corners and slightly soft center make for a truly unique taste. We loved the Nordic ($13), with smoked salmon, mild Swiss-like Jarlsberg, leek fondue, capers and lemon; Complete ($11) with ham, Swiss and a sunny-side up egg or the new Linguica ($13) with Portuguese sausage, Jarlsberg, butternut squash, caramelized onions and cranberries.
Salad with pear, prosciutto and tomatoes at Creperie Chez Solange in Larkfield. Heather Irwin/PD
Sweet Crepes are made with white flour, eggs and sugar. Even with sticky sweet toppings and chocolate, they’re not overly saccharine. There’s no bad choice here, but for something more authentic, try the Peche Melba ($8), with preserved peach, berry jam, toasted almonds and fresh whipped cream or the absolutely perfect Poire Belle Helene ($8) with preserved pear, chocolate ganache, almonds and whipped cream. We also love the Suzette ($9), that 1970s phenom with orange caramel and Grand Marnier.
Glaces: Basically ice cream, which is another common pairing at French creperies. You can get your crepes a la mode or come in for a sundae with crepe toppings like caramelized apples and caramel sauce (Tatin, $7) or Chocolate Liegeois ($7) with Valrhona chocolate ice cream, ganache, toasted almonds and whipped cream. Our fave: The Vacherin ($7), made with raspberry Fiorello Gelato sorbet, meringue, berry jam, almonds and whipped cream.
The restaurant is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. for dine in or take out. Evening specials are at the chef’s whim and recently included braised beef and Peruvian chicken.
“It depends what looks good at the market,” Colasse said.
Creperie Chez Solange is located at 462 Larkfield Center, Santa Rosa, 707-791-7633. Open for lunch and dinner.
Kathleen Weber, co-owner of Della Fattoria in Petaluma, enjoys the welcoming aspect of the holidays spent with family and friends. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
As my family arrived in Petaluma on a sunny Sunday January 26, it was no surprise to see a large crowd stretching outside the front door of Della Fattoria. We parked a few blocks away and walked down the alley that runs behind the bakery and café. We were thankful that Alethea Bermudes, director of operations, was at the back door. She hugged us, and ushered us inside. The speakers had just started recounting treasured memories of a woman who truly changed my life.
Almost eight years earlier, Kathleen Weber had contacted me to ask whether I could help her with recipe testing and writing for her book Della Fattoria Bread. At the time, with a newborn on my hip, I was convinced there was no way I could take on this project. I was sleep deprived and anxious. But my husband encouraged me to meet with Kathleen and hear what she had to say.
We met in the café, then located in the spot that is now the bakery. It was busy, but I picked Kathleen out right away. She sat at one end of the community table, saying hello to guests and peeking at plates as they went by. The communal buzz of the room was infectious. There were interruptions during our meeting but never once did I feel that Kathleen wasn’t paying close attention. Within minutes, there was a genuine connection between us: I knew this was a book I needed to do.
Over the next year, I worked from home and made trips to the Weber Ranch to pick up supplies and learn from Kathleen, about bread and about life. She had a confidence in me that I struggled to find in myself. Kathleen’s magic extended beyond her wonderful baking — it also manifested itself in her ability to see you for you.
From my vantage point at Kathleen’s memorial, I could just barely see the stage. In the gorgeously eclectic room decorated with countless hearts — a room that was the essence of her dreams lovingly executed by her family — I could see many chefs, bakers, and vendors I recognized and, no doubt, many others that I did not, along with musicians, artists, shopkeepers, teachers, and tradespeople. The room was filled with many interconnected relationships. This was Kathleen’s tribe, all on an equal footing with no preferences; no hierarchy. It was a mix of people with as many differences as similarities, all united by Kathleen — “the community caretaker and bread mother” — in the words of Ken Savano, Petaluma’s chief of police.
Through the stories of Kathleen’s friends, we learned of her years as a student of the theater and her meeting and marrying the singer-songwriter Ed Weber. We heard of the growth of her children Elisa and Aaron, and how her family became integral and essential to her business. As I listened to these stories, I could see Kathleen shaping dough, loading her car with countless loaves, or just catching someone’s eye and smiling. The tales exemplified her vitality and her love of family, life, work, and all things bread. She had the ability to make everyone feel special. As the newsletter announcing the celebration of her life said, she was “delightfully insightful and [had a] wicked sense of humor.”
Franklin Williams, painter, sculptor and friend since the 1960s, said Kathleen had the “wisdom to combine old and new”. He remembered dancing and laughing with her until they were both exhausted. Lorenzo Leoni, baker-turned-attorney (son of Nancy Leoni, owner of iLeoni cookware and housewares), pointed out that “there was no work-life balance for Kathleen.” Life and work were happily intertwined with never a need for separation.
Kay Baumhefner, formerly of the Opera Café in Petaluma, said that Kathleen was always “finding more ways to deliver. Her dream was to provide and she did that in so many ways.” She urged the room to live by Kathleen’s example. “Kathleen showed up for her life. May she continue to inspire us.” The reaction was heartfelt and filled the room as Baumhefner enthusiastically resounded what we already knew: lucky us for having known her.
After the final words, the crowd started to move in varying directions. I had been standing next to, and inadvertently bumping into, chef Daniel Patterson during the speeches. It was nice to meet him. I could vividly recall stories Kathleen had told me of breads made for Babette’s in Sonoma and their friendship during that time. It was wonderful to have the opportunity to see, reconnect and meet with so many familiar faces — Kathleen was still bringing people together. You could see old friends and colleagues hugging, shaking hands and breaking into groups for conversations about Kathleen and their times with her.
Through my friend Sarah Scott, formerly the executive chef for Robert Mondavi Winery, I met Stephen Durfee, the Baking and Pastry Arts professor at the CIA at Greystone, Steve Sando of Rancho Gordo New World Specialty Food, Carrie Brown of the recently closed Jimtown Store, and her sister Julie. We talked about the Martha Stewart episode that featured Carrie and Kathleen and, of course, Martha’s arrival by helicopter. We also spoke about booking out the community table at Della for dinner, when it was in the bakery space. These kinds of gatherings, which often included Kathleen, were about people connecting with one another around one large table filled with deliciously wholesome food. Equally, they were about the specialness of Kathleen, whose persona was epitomized in this very special place.
The day after the memorial gathering, I read through old emails from Kathleen and made a big pot of beans like we did for the cookbook. I recalled the last time we got together in December and her words, even then still encouraging me. Kathleen showed me it’s never too late to go for something new and the power of honesty, generosity and kindness. She told me there’s no shame in preferring a lower profile but don’t get overshadowed by big egos or allow yourself to blend in too much.
Kathleen saw me, and I bet if you got to know her, she saw you too.
Samantha Brown knows what makes a place worth visiting. A television personality who has hosted several different travel shows over the past 15 years, Brown has seen the good, the bad, and the ugly. She has said that critical components of a winning destination include one-of-a-kind experiences, strong drinks, delicious food, and great stories. Thankfully, Sonoma County has it all—at least according to the forthcoming episode of Brown’s Emmy Award-winning show, “Places to Love.”
The episode, which airs at 2:30 p.m. Saturday, Feb. 1 and 3 p.m. Sunday, Feb. 2 on San Francisco PBS station KQED, summarizes four days that Brown and her crew spent on our turf. Over the course of an hour, Brown highlights a mix of museums, vendors, restaurants, attractions, and wineries.
Contributing writer Matt Villano recently caught up with Brown to discuss the show and what she likes best about Sonoma County.
Coming in, what were you looking for?
Sonoma is a massive county and there’s so much to do. We always go for the story first, the effort that it takes to create experiences for travelers. I’m also interested in what people don’t know about a place. When many hear the word Sonoma, it has this reputation for being unattainable. We wanted to show a very different Sonoma—the one with generations of farmers, the integrity of hard work, and creativity.
What were some of your favorite spots?
California Carnivores, for starters. It’s a carnivorous plant nursery. I loved it. One of the owners fell in love with these plants when he was 14. He bought a carnivorous plant there as a customer and now he is part owner of the nursery and that plant is still there. It’s 34 years old. It was such a great scene. Another great spot was Safari West. We focused on Nancy Lang, who is co-owner. The place comes off as a zoo, but it’s not. They have these amazing automobiles going through these fields and savannah where animals are roaming around. It’s as if you are the one in the cage and they are the ones who are free-roaming. Most people will never get to Africa—I have a job in travel and I’ve never been on a safari there—but visiting Safari West seems pretty close.
To what extent did you focus on wineries?
How could you possibly do a show on Sonoma and not do any wineries? We did the Robledo Family Winery. For us it was a no-brainer. The fact that he [Reynaldo Robledo] is the first Mexican migrant worker to own his own vineyard. He worked from 16 years old to owning his own vineyard. I realized when I was talking to him that when he came here in 1968 there really was no wine industry. That was when everything started to happen. Maybe without him we wouldn’t be where we are today.
And food?
We didn’t stop and focus on chefs; we wanted to focus on farmers first. We went to a wonderful dairy farm called the Achadinha Cheese Company [in Petaluma]. Everything from feeding cows and milking cows to making cheese and selling cheese is done on property, right there. That speaks to what makes Sonoma so special. This is where food is grown and made.
What surprised you about Sonoma during your reporting?
Sonoma has a coastline. Wine gets all the credit! It pulls everyone’s attention. You have this glorious coastline. We went to Schoolhouse Rock Beach. The stones are so wonderful. It was a beautiful spot.
How did you decide what to include?
It was hard. We had four days to shoot and Sonoma County is really big. If we’re in a car we’re not shooting. We stayed in Santa Rosa, so we had to be smart about where we went. We do a pre-production trip before we shoot every episode. In this case, our producer looked at maybe 20 places to shoot. Ultimately, we whittled it down to nine scenes.
We’ve endured two big fires in the last three years. You came in May 2019, before our most recent fire. What did you learn about the resiliency of our community?
We focused a lot of our conversations on that. The Safari West story is particularly incredible—the 2017 fire destroyed a lot of the buildings, including their own homes, but they saved every animal. We learned about the fear and how horrifying these fires can be, but also how everyone started back the next day. That was impressive. In the end, we felt that the resiliency of Sonoma County was so strong, we didn’t need to talk about the fires. We didn’t want people to watch the show and think there are still fires there. We decided we want people to understand that Sonoma is there and open for business and that the people are wonderful.
No one wants to talk about bathrooms at restaurants because…ewww.
But really, we should, because first off, they better be clean. And secondly? Sometimes they’re almost as much fun as the restaurant. Showing off personal creativity, humor and a whole lot of panache, here are some of Sonoma County’s quirkiest, most delightful and noteworthy restaurant commodes according to our enthusiastic Facebook fans. Click through the above gallery for details.
A special thanks to our intern, Kasy, who snapped photos of the restrooms.
“It’s been a funny experience,” he said. “Lots of question marks and laughs. But most of them seem to be ecstatic to be included…It just catches them off-guard. ‘Wait, you want photos of… the restroom, not the restaurant?’ I’m always like, ‘Yeah, we don’t care about the food or the overall dining experience, just the bathrooms.'”
Also check out: Hotel Healdsburg, Stumptown, El Barrio, Barndiva and The Villa (“The pink retro ladies’ room at The Villa! It’s a must see!)…which we couldn’t get pix of.