Executive Chef Bruce Frieseke and Chef de Cuisine Ben Davies at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
You can thank an argument about horseradish for the Deviled Brussels Sprouts at Santa Rosa’s newly-opened County Bench Kitchen + Bar.
In a quiet moment between lunch and dinner service, Executive Chef Bruce Frieseke (who won a Michelin star during his time at the Applewood Inn) and Chef de Cuisine Ben Davies (Petite Syrah, Spoonbar, Mirepoix) sit at an upstairs table at the restaurant explaining one of their signature dishes—crunchy sprouts with the spicy horseradish creme. But not without the backstory of when Davies cleared the kitchen with noxious horseradish fumes in an early failed experiment.
Executive Chef Bruce Frieseke and Chef de Cuisine Ben Davies at The County Bench in Santa RosaExecutive Chef Bruce Frieseke and Chef de Cuisine Ben Davies at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD. Heather Irwin/PD
Determined to prove that fresh, rather than Frieseke’s suggestion of prepared horseradish would prove tastier, Davies put whole chunks of horseradish in a juicer, leaving the staff with eyes burning, throats choking and no one wanting to get anywhere near the kitchen.
“You just couldn’t be in there,” said Davies.
The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
But from the ashes, or more accurately, the pulp, came the idea for crunchy Brussels with whipped horseradish, egg yolks and mayo — Deviled Brussels sprouts — that both chefs eventually created.
Though the two continue to rib each other about Battle Horseradish, that kind of good-natured back and forth, yin and yang, trial and error that make for a unique relationship that seems to be working at this upscale-casual American eatery.
Farro and ham hock at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
Two Chefs Walk Into A Burger Bar
Davies wasn’t looking for a job when he ran into the Michelin-starred Frieseke in downtown Santa Rosa last fall. After a car crash, he was taking time off from the brutal hours he’d spent in high-profile restaurants in Napa and Sonoma and considering opening a restaurant of his own.
Call it fate, kismet or just random chance, but at that exact moment Frieseke happened to need a chef de cuisine at that moment for a new project, at that time called Craft 535 Kitchen + Bar. The upscale “New American” eatery would be part of restaurateur Sonu Chandi’s expanding Santa Rosa portfolio, which includes several Mountain Mike’s pizzerias, Stout Brothers and the then-yet-to-open Bibi’s Burger Bar that are part of Chandi Restaurant Group.
But there was a kicker: Before Frieseke and Davis could get to work on the chef-inspired restaurant, soon to be renamed County Bench, Chandi needed the two to help open a burger-focused restaurant. The two had their work cut out.
Croque Madame at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
“It was a full court press for six weeks of ten hour days in the restaurant,” said Davies. The restaurant now operates pretty much on its own with cooks implementing their opening menu.
In the spring, the two got down to serious work on the menu for County Bench, which opened in May.
Having spent nearly a year together planning menus, working through construction, hiring and training staff, and spending long days in thekitchen, both chefs seem truly happy to be working together in a custom-designed kitchen, making the food they want to make.
“We’re just two chefs having fun,” says Davies, who isn’t prone to overly-sentimental conversation. “I’m not stressed and freaking out all the time,” he adds. “You can see it in the food. It’s the combination of both of our backgrounds and experiences. We’re not going anywhere,” said Davies.
Quinoa cracker with salmon and serranos at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
What’s On The Menu
A mix of small plates and shareable entrees, County Bench is the kind of spot where you can stop in for a bite and a cocktail, have a light lunch, or sit down for some serious grub for brunch or dinner.
Among the shareable dishes: The three-finger thick ribeye ($70). Though some folks reel at the price tag, it’s meant to be divided up among two to four people. In fact, Freiseke says it’s his favorite dish on the menu.
“Look, when you cook a giant piece of meat, it’s amazing, rather than some skinny little piece,” said Frieseke. Along with the ribeye are other dishes meant to be shared: Chicken thighs in pimenton with chorizo and chick peas ($29) or braised lamb shank ($36) with cocoa nibs (reminiscent of a dish at Frieseke’s time as chef at Applewood Inn).
Brussels sprouts at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
The small plates and appetizers leave more room for experimentation, ranging in price from $4 to $14 (with specials during Happy Hour). Favorites include:
– Popcorn + corn ($4): More than just a bowl of popcorn, it’s dusted with freeze-dried corn, salt and cayenne. Crave-worthy.
– Plated Quinoa Crackers ($8): Housemade crackers with cured salmon and serrano sour cream (also vegetarian with avocado and sumac)
– Crispy chicken drumsticks ($8): Covered with sweet chili sauce and black sesame seeds, we dare you not to devour these.
– Cauliflower, brown butter and braised oxtail ($8): So simple. So amazing. Order it.
Popcorn + corn at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
Bigger Bites:
– Farro and Ham Hock Salad ($14): Fresh favas, radishes and asparagus (or whatever happens to be in season), make this a healthy, filling lunch or dinner accompaniment.
– Ranch Bowl ($22): It’s hard not to clap with glee at this little house party of steak, pork, steamed greens, cabbage, beets and jasmine rice.
Dessert at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
Leave plenty of room for dessert, since pastry chef Victoria Madrigal always has something impressive on the menu. In fact, leave room for a couple of desserts.
Cocktails at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
More Than Just Food
Though Frieseke and Davies have the spotlight at the restaurant, there are several other high-profile players that have influenced their menu. Chris John, the former sommelier for Cyrus Restaurant, created a wine list that’s exceptional both for Santa Rosa and Sonoma County. There are four small production wines on tap, along with a novel-sized wine list that focuses on a few classic regions, with a depth of vintages. Paul Ammerman, who relocated from NYC, is obsessive about the restaurant’s craft cocktail program, and you’ll find incredibly unique offerings on the constantly changing cocktail menu.
“Once we saw the wine list, we said, ‘Oh, the food really has to match the level of the wine list and cocktail program,” said Davies.
Dessert at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
With a slow and steady start as the staff is trained and the dishes continue to evolve they’re reaching that goal, with an ever-changing lineup of dishes inspired by Sonoma County’s seasons, a little horseradish and two chefs having fun in the kitchen.
The County Bench Kitchen + Bar, 535 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 535-0700. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Friday from 11:30a.m. to 2:30p.m. and 5 to 11p.m (12:30a.m. on Friday).; Dinner Saturday – Monday; Brunch from 10a.m. to 2p.m. Sunday. thecountybench.com.
Chefs Charlie Palmer and Scott Romano at Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg. Photo: Paige Green.
Chef Charlie Palmer is looking back to look forward at Dry Creek Kitchen.
Taking over the reigns of Palmer’s Healdsburg restaurant is 12-year Charlie Palmer Restaurant Group veteran Scott Romano. In addition to working at 5 Palmer restaurants, including Aureole in NYC, his friendship with Chef Palmer spans two decades.
“It’s a nearly 20-year friendship that has survived several restaurant openings, hot kitchens, many a hunting trip, and countless meals and glasses of wine,” said Palmer. It also includes several guest chef appearances at Palmer’s signature event, Pigs & Pinot as well as surviving Romano’s departure from the group several years ago.
Sautéed White Sea Bass with Crisp Zucchini Flower, Sweet Corn Purée and Corn-Shishito Chutney at Dry Creek Kitchen. Heather Irwin/PD
“There’s a unique quality to Scottie. He has the soul of a chef. There are a lot of good chefs, but not all of them have the soul of a chef — the love of food and a constant yearning to learn more. ”
– Charlie Palmer
“I’ve been working on getting Scott back into the family for years, knowing his maturity and experience would bring us to new levels,” said Palmer. “His kitchen and cooking style lends itself naturally to DCK and I’m thrilled to have my hunting partner back in this part of the country.”
As both employee and longtime friend to Palmer, Romano has an ease with the multi-Michelin starred chef that’s reassuring to the future of the Healdsburg restaurant after the departure of Dustin Valette (who left in 2014 to open Valette) and a less than one year stay by Chef Andrew Wilson.
Dry Creek Peach + Heirloom Tomato Salad with Bellwether Ricotta, Pickled Red Onions and Rustic Toast at Dry Creek Kitchen. Heather Irwin/PD
That easy rapport shows, with the two working hard to reimagine some of the restaurant’s signature dishes like the Oz Family Farm Rabbit Tortellini, Dry Creek Peach and Heirloom Tomato Salad with Bellwether Ricotta and Sauteed White Sea Bass with Sweet Corn Puree.
“We’re looking back at iconic dishes from all the restaurants,” said Palmer, who currently owns 17 restaurants, with at least one more on the way at the Archer Hotel in Napa (opening 2017). “And we’re adapting them to California,” he said.
The two are also doing monthly “Reflective Menu” dishes that pull from Palmer’s past, including Pepper Seared Bob White Quail with Savory Corn and Sweetbread Pudding that appeared on the 1998 menu of Aureole (served Aug. 8-21, 2016 at DCK)
Though Romano isn’t from the area, he’s already jumped into the fray, with his wife (also in the restaurant biz) planting a culinary garden at their Healdsburg home, and spending many mornings meeting with farmers and purveyors who supply the restaurant.
“There’s a unique quality to Scottie. He has the soul of a chef,” said Palmer. “There are a lot of good chefs, but not all of them have the soul of a chef — the love of food and a constant yearning to learn more,” he said.
Oz Family Farm Rabbit Tortellini with Pea Variations, Carrot and Shaved Pecorino . Heather Irwin/PD
Romano’s culinary start was humble, doing dishes at a pizza parlor in New Jersey, and graduating to a line cook at Romano’s Macaroni Grill (no relation). As a culinary student, Romano chose to stage at Aureole, and Palmer saw promise in the young cook.
Now, the promise has landed him at one of Palmer’s flagship restaurants. And both chefs seem happy to be back together, and happy to be cooking in Wine Country.
“People love eating here in Wine Country, and I’m looking forward to being part of that,” said Romano.
Helen Putnam Regional Park in Petaluma. (Photo Courtesy panoramio.com)
Helen Putnam Regional Park is located in the Petaluma countryside two miles southwest of downtown. The 216-acre park lies across rolling open meadows punctuated by mature oak savannah.
The park also includes a shaded picnic area, playground, and a fishing pond. Hiking, biking and equestrian trails wind through the hills, with panoramic vistas of southern Sonoma County and northern Marin County. Eight well-marked trails wind through the park. This route follows the park’s perimeter and visits Fish Pond. Dogs are permitted on leash, no longer than 6 feet. License required.
Helen Putnam Regional Park. (Photo Courtesy alltrails.com)
To the Trailhead
411 Chileno Valley Road, Petaluma
38.212608, -122.664466
From Highway 101 in Petaluma, exit on Washington Street. Drive one mile southwest to Petaluma Boulevard. Turn left and go one block to Western Avenue. Turn right and continue 1.8 miles to Chileno Valley Road. Turn left and drive 0.8 miles to the posted park entrance. Turn left into the parking lot. A parking fee is required.
Helen Putnam Regional Park. (Photo Courtesy shiftingthebalance.com)
The Hike
From the far end of the parking lot, bear left by the map kiosk on the Arroyo Trail. Walk 0.1 mile to a junction. Go to the left on the Panorama Trail and climb the grassy hill. At the ridge is an overlook of the rolling pastureland with pockets of oaks. A bench sits next to a sprawling, majestic coast live oak. Top the slope to a junction with the Pomo Trail at 0.4 miles. Bear left, staying on the Panorama Trail, and descend on the gentle slope.
Head uphill to the oak grove and horse pasture at the west park boundary. Continue on the upper ridge east, and bear left on the Pomo Trail. Descend into a shaded oak woodland and follow the ridge. Loop right to a posted fork at 0.9 miles. Bear left on the Fillaree Trail.
Photo by Crissy Pascual.
Meander through the oaks to a T-junction with the paved Ridge Trail at 1.3 miles, located at an overlook of Petaluma, the Chileno Valley, and the coastal hills.
Take the right fork up the gentle grade, passing the Pomo Trail on the right and the South Loop Trail on the left. (The loop trail leads to a 500-foot vista point.) Sheltered by hills on three sides, begin descending.
Walk parallel to a small seasonal creek to Fish Pond at 1.9 miles.
Curve around the east shore of the oval pond to a junction. Leave the paved Ridge Trail, and veer right along the south end of the pond to the water tank. Go to the left on the Ridge Trail and traverse the hillside. Pass the Savannah Trail on the right, returning to the parking lot.
Looking for a local urban-feel dance party to avoid the nighttime commute to the city, the extreme San Francisco hills and the competitive parking? Super Saturday, an event at outdoor bar-meets-Italian restaurant venue Campo Fina in Healdsburg, serves up killer cocktails to DJ beats — with a side of bocce ball to break the ice.
Last Saturday, Campo Fina DJs kept the crowd happy by bringing a mix of dance-disco nostalgia and contemporary electronica-hip hop to the deck. First time Super Saturday attendee and Healdsburg resident Kelsey Walsh enjoyed the atmosphere. “It’s a really fun thing for the community,” she said.
Although the Super Saturday crowd consisted of mostly locals, Marline Trevino, in town visiting friends, said she enjoyed the friendly environment. “So far, just being here in the last 15 minutes, it seems really cool…I love the atmosphere,” she said.
Part of Super Saturday’s appeal is that it offers a little something-for-everyone — a relaxed California-backyard-vibe, but with an urban edge. And the something-for-everyone extends to the drink menu: for a little sophistication in your shaker, try Campo Fina’s Moscow Mule — a pink vodka cocktail with angostura bitters and Fever Tree ginger beer, served in a tall glass — and for the down-to-earth brew crowd, its the $4 Pabst Blue Ribbon.
Arriving at the battle site, I’d just established my position on a hay bale when an ill-kempt and bearded soldier dressed in grey flannel let forth with a blood curdling rebel yell. A cacophony of musket shots followed, a roar of cannons reverberated, ragged battle flags waved defiantly in the breeze while fallen men lay motionless on the ground.
Thankfully, the scene in front of me was not played out by unsettled ghosts from a distant Civil War past, but rather by reenactors immersed in history on a post-millennial Sonoma County meadow. The battle over, the mud-caked soldiers of the Duncan Mills Civil War Days straggled toward R&R and safety — an onsite hot dog stand — and a peek at their “wireless telegraph” smartphones. My first experience witnessing a living history extravaganza, and I was already hooked. And this before I had a chance to snap a selfie with Abraham Lincoln!
If you would also like to reconnect with history, we’ve listed a few ideas on how you can open the portal to the past in Sonoma County.
1. Explore a Former Native American Settlement and Russian Fortress at Fort Ross
Fort Ross State Historic Park on the Sonoma Coast has attracted visitors for over a century with its unique and multifaceted history. Once a Kashaya settlement, Ft. Ross became the southernmost Russian settlement and fur trading post in North America from 1812 to 1842.When the Russians moved on, the fort became a commercial agricultural and logging hub. Ft. Ross is now a National Historic Landmark and a treasured state park.
Fort Ross Festival: Every year in July, California State Parks and Fort Ross Conservancy put on the Fort Ross Festival which celebrates “the diverse international flavors and cultures of Fort Ross.” Festivities include costumed historical vignettes, hands-on-crafts, horse and buggy rides, music and dance performances, an international food bazaar, and a beer garden.
Admission is $20 per car, $100 per small capacity bus (24 or fewer people), and $225 for a large capacity bus (greater than 25 people). For more information, email info@fortross.org, or call (707) 847-3437.
The historic fort can also be visited year round. Park grounds open daily from sunrise to sunset. The Fort Compound and Visitor Center are open from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., California State Parks staff also offer free 30-minute historic talks in the compound on most weekends at noon and 2 p.m.
Fort Ross State Historic Park, 19005 Coast Hwy, Jenner, (707) 847-3286, fortross.org.
2. Follow in the Footsteps of Jack London in Glen Ellen
Much traveled and much acclaimed writer Jack London set down roots in Sonoma County in 1905. Together with his second wife and travel companion Charmian (a writer and character in her own right), Jack settled on a small rundown farm on 130 acres in Glen Ellen.
Not one to rest on his laurels, London soon set about exploring his newly acquired land on horseback, and then began implementing the latest and most innovative agricultural techniques available at the time. Jack’s Glen Ellen “Beauty Ranch” became his primary focus and, apart from an adventurous Pacific Ocean sailing sojourn on his beloved Snark, London spent his last years here. The author died on his Sonoma County ranch in 1916.
Visitors to Jack London State Park can see the ruins of Jack and Charmian’s dream home “Wolf House” which burned down the day before they were to occupy it in 1913. You can visit London’s boulder gravesite, the cottage in which he lived and wrote, and the House of Happy Walls. The latter was built by Charmian London and Eliza Shepard (Jack London’s step-sister) after London’s death. It served as home for Charmian and now serves as a museum for Jack’s artifacts and work.
The House of Happy Walls at Jack London State Historic Park. (Photo Courtesy Jack London State Historic Park)
Jack London Centenary Events: This year, to commemorate the centenary of Jack London’s death, Jack London State Historic Park is hosting a series of special events.For more information, click here.
Free Docent Guided Tours: Jack London State Historic Park also offers free docent guided tours of Wolf House, Jack London’s Grave site and Beauty Ranch.
The docent-led tours take you to the ruins of the Wolf House and London’s gravesite from the House of Happy Walls Museum at 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. on weekends. Tours of Beauty Ranch begin at 2 p.m. and include a visit to the barns on the ranch, to Jack London’s cottage, and to Jack’s Pig Palace and silos.
Tours are free; there is a small fee to view the interior of London’s faithfully restored writing cottage. The cottage is open 12 – 4 p.m. seven days a week. Staffed by volunteers, it is occasionally closed so call in advance to make sure the cottage is open on a particular day. Admission fees are $4 for adults, $2 for seniors (age 62+), and $2 for students (age 13-18). Children age 12 and under are free.
Jack London State Historic Park, 2400 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, 707-938-5216, jacklondonpark.com.
3. Discover the History of Petaluma — by Foot or by Boat
Petaluma, one of the oldest cities in California, was settled during Gold Rush years in 1851. The city’s location as a transportation hub on the Petaluma River was instrumental in its rapid growth during the 19th and 20th centuries — scow schooners and steamers embarked here for the burgeoning city of San Francisco laden with agricultural produce and raw materials.
Petaluma soon established a reputation for its grain milling and chicken processing industries, and the city became known as the “Egg Capital of the World.” Today, Petaluma’s historical prosperity is still visible in the many distinguished and well-preserved Victorian homes and commercial buildings on the western side of the river.
Free Walking Tours of Petaluma are held on most Saturdays, May through October. Participants get a chance to learn about the pioneering days of Petaluma from docents in period dress, taking on the role of the city’s early settlers. Meet on the steps of the Petaluma Historical Library and Museum at 10:30 a.m. Call in advance to make sure a tour is being held.
The Petaluma Historical Library and Museum, 20 Fourth Street, Petaluma, (707) 778-4398, petalumamuseum.com.
The Petaluma Heritage Homes Biennial Tour, is held this year on September 18, from 1 – 8 p.m. This year’s tour will help benefit a retrofit of the Petaluma Historical Library and Museum. Tickets go on sale a few weeks before the tour. On December 4, the houses will be decorated for the holidays.
At River Heritage Days, historic boats from San Francisco Maritime Park travel up to Petaluma where they are available for tours and rides. Festivities include a barn dance, boat building workshops, nature awareness activities and plenty of family friendly fun.
4. Watch Mid-1800s Mexican-California Come to Life at the Petaluma Adobe State Park
In 1834, military commander Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo was ordered to leave his post at the Presidio of San Francisco to relocate north of the Bay. Vallejo was instructed to accomplish three things: to secularize the San Francisco Solano Mission in Sonoma, to colonize the area by starting a pueblo (Sonoma), and to be near the Russian outpost at Fort Ross.
Vallejo was granted the Rancho Petaluma and began construction of a ranch house and factory. In its operational days between 1836 and 1857, the Rancho Petaluma employed up to 2,000 Native Americans and became one of the largest ranches north of the San Francisco Bay and a social-economic center of Northern California.
Living History Day at Petaluma Adobe State Park:Every year in May, Petaluma Adobe State Historic Park celebrates Living History Day. Visitors can see the mid 1800s Mexican-California come to life outside of the two story Adobe as historical reenactments portray the vaqueros, traders, cooks and craftsmen who inhabited the rancho.
Docent led tours of the Adobe are also available on most weekends, inquire for details.
Petaluma Adobe State Historic Park, 3325 Adobe Rd, Petaluma, 707-762-4871, petalumaadobe.com.
5. Learn More About Sonoma’s Rich History by Visiting Sonoma State Historic Park
The town (pueblo) of Sonoma was founded in an area once populated by tribes of Coastal Miwok. Mission San Francisco Solano, established in 1823, was the last and the northern most mission founded in California.
In 1833, Lt. Mariano Vallejo was sent northward from the Presidio San Francisco in command of a company of soldiers to secularize the mission, lay out a pueblo and guard against the encroachment of foreigners: the Russian presence at Ft. Ross and Sutter’s demands of sovereignty and an independent principality in the Sacramento area. Sonoma Barracks was built to house his troops. Vallejo quickly went about laying out the town and plaza of Sonoma.
Californio soldiers under Comandante-General Mariano Vallejo drill at Sonoma barracks. (Photo by militarymuseum.org)
Sonoma State Historic Park is a scattering of historical attractions around the Sonoma Plaza. Sites include the Mission San Francisco Solano, the Blue Wing Inn, Sonoma Barracks, the Toscano Hotel, the Servants Quarters (the remains of La Casa Grande) and General Mariano Vallejo’s home — Lachryma Montis (less than a mile west of the plaza).
Sonoma State Historic Park, various location around the Sonoma Plaza, Mission: (707) 938-9560, Vallejo’s Home: (707) 938-9559, Barracks: (707) 939-9420.
Mission San Francisco Solano in Sonoma. (Photo by Crista Jeremiason)
6. See the Bear Flag Revolt Re-Enacted at the Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival in Sonoma
In the Bear Flag revolt of June 1846, a ragtag group of Americans seeking to emulate the Texas revolt against Mexico took the town of Sonoma from its founder General Mariano Vallejo. The rebels, like the Texans before them, proclaimed an independent republic under the Bear Flag rather than annexing the territory for the United States. Less than a month later, Navy Lt. Joseph Revere, grandson of Paul Revere, took the Bear Flag down and raised the Stars and Stripes for the United States.
Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival: Sonoma’s celebration of its history, community, and culture kicks off on Sept. 23rd at 7 p.m. with a reenactment of the Bear Flag Revolt. See it all play out live in front of the historic Sonoma Barracks (Sonoma State Historic Park, 20 E Spain St, Sonoma). Also at the festival: food, wine, music, poster contest, 12 and 5 K runs, and Get Your Glow on Parade. Inaugurated in 1897, this is Valley of the Moon Festival’s 119th year.
7. Tour the Home, Gardens and Experimental Farm of a Famed Horticulturist and Botanist
Luther Burbank was 21 years old when he lost his father in 1870. Having grown up on a farm, the young Burbank used his inheritance to buy a 17-acre plot of land near Lunenburg in his native Massachusetts. There, he developed the Burbank potato. He later sold the rights to his potato for $150 and used the proceeds to travel to Santa Rosa, where three of his brothers had already settled.
In Santa Rosa, Burbank purchased a 4-acre plot of land where he established a greenhouse, a nursery, and experimental fields that he used to conduct crossbreeding experiments on plants — inspired by Charles Darwin’s “The Variation of Animals and Plants under Domestication.” Later, Burbank acquired the Gold Ridge Farm in Sebastopol to allow for more acreage in which to conduct his crossbreeding experiments.
During his 55-year career, Burbank developed more than 800 strains and varieties of plants — notable examples include the Shasta daisy, the fire poppy, the “Santa Rosa” plum, the “Flaming Gold” nectarine, the freestone peach and the white blackberry.
Luther Burbank became an internationally known celebrity during his lifetime. Many famous people made the journey to small-town Santa Rosa to visit the plant breeder and view his experiments. Henry Ford and Thomas Edison met Luther Burbank at the Santa Rosa Gardens for one afternoon in 1915. Both signed Mr. Burbank’s guest book.On October 8, 1905, Luther Burbank received a letter from Jack London, whom Burbank later described as his “almost neighbor”, living just across the hills. “Now, what I want to know,” wrote Mr. London, “is could you give me a tip to any kinds of exceptionally good fruits and grapes for me to plant?” Jack and his wife Charmian visited Burbank on several occasions. London remarked Burbank’s guest book, “I’d rather be doing what you are doing than be Roosevelt, Rockefeller, King Edward and the Kaiser rolled into one.”Luther Burbank Home & Gardens in Santa Rosa, CA.
Visit Luther Burbank Home & Gardens: Public tour season of Luther Burbank Home & Gardens in Santa Rosa runs from April through October. Stop by Tuesday through Sunday, between 10 a.m. and 3:30 p.m., for docent led tours. Adults $10; children 12-18, seniors and college students with ID $8.50; children under 12 free with an adult. Group Tours and Children’s Tours are available year-round with advance reservations.
Luther Burbank Home & Gardens, 204 Santa Rosa Avenue, Santa Rosa, CA 95404, 707-524-5445, lutherburbank.org.
Visit Luther Burbank’s Gold Ridge Experiment Farm: Tours of Luther Burbank’s Gold Ridge Experiment Farm in Sebastopol are available during opening hours (Thurs — Sun, 1-4 p.m.) — a free trail map can be picked up by the kiosk and barn. Docent tours are available by appointment.
8. Visit the Ghosts of the Past on a Cemetery Walk in Sebastopol or Santa Rosa
The Santa Rosa Rural Cemetery is a popular spot for history buffs. The 17-acre historic landmark, primarily used from the 1850s to 1930s, is the burial site for many of the city’s earliest residents. Names like Carillo, Hoen, and Hahman — the families who built Santa Rosa — can be found on gravestones here.
Women’s History Tour: On August 27, visitors to the cemetery can see portrayals of the women who helped shape Santa Rosa and Sonoma County.
Tours begin at 10 a.m., 10:15 a.m. and 10:30 a.m., approximately 1 hour long, $15 rain or shine. To register, click here or call (707) 543-3737. Santa Rosa Rural Cemetery, Santa Rosa, CA 95404.
Tours last approximately one hour and leave from the McDonald Gate every 20 minutes from 7:30pm to 9:50pm, pre-registration required. $35 rain or shine. To register, click here or call (707) 543-3737. Santa Rosa Rural Cemetery, Santa Rosa, CA 95404.
Tickets cost $35 per person; proceeds go to Gold Ridge Experimental Farm and West County Museum. For tickets, click here. This event will sell out fast, so get your tickets early.
9. Watch an Ancient Steam-Powered Mill in Action in Occidental
The town of Occidental was founded in 1876.The timber industry grew rapidly here after the North Pacific Railroad connected the town to the Sausalito ferry and its service to San Francisco in 1877.Soon, as many as six timber mills in the Occidental area worked round the clock to shape redwoods into the lumber that built San Francisco and other early Californian cities.
Wade Sturgeon’s steam-powered mill was built in the 1880s on what is now the Korbel Winery property near the Russian River. After changing hands and locations a few times, the mill was relocated once again in 1924 to its current location in Occidental.
Historic photo of the workers at Sturgeon’s Mill. (Courtesy of Sturgeon’s Mill Restoration Project)
Sturgeon Mill, one of the world’s last steam-powered sawmills using original equipment, is now a unique piece of history. The mill, a non-profit working museum, fires up its 19th-century Atlas Steam Engine a few times per year.
The next live demonstrations of the mill are scheduled on September 17-18 and October 15 – 16, from 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.. There is no charge, but donations towards the restoration projects are gladly accepted.
Sturgeon’s Mill Restoration Project, 2150 Green Hill Road, Sebastopol, (707) 829-2479, sturgeonsmill.com.
Harvey Henningsen, left, and Ron Sturgeon run a log through the blades of the headrig at Sturgeon’s Mill.
10. See a Civil War Battle Play Out Before your Eyes Near Duncans Mills
Each year in July, Confederate and Union soldiers invade the sleepy Northern California hamlet of Duncans Mills.The Civil War Days extravaganza in Duncans Mills, touted as Northern California’s largest Civil War reenactment — one of the largest reenactments west of the Mississippi — is definitely worth a visit. The battlefields are located on a campground in the Russian River resort area, meadows picturesquely surrounded by redwood covered hills.
Visitors to the Civil War Days can watch the drama unfold on the battlefield from the safe distance of bleachers and strategically placed straw bales. In between battles (there are usually two per day), you can stroll around the site; check out period dress in one of the many tents, chat with the re-enactors as they unwind by the campfire — or snap a selfie with Abe Lincoln. There is a hot dog shack if you get hungry — or you can bring your own picnic in a knapsack or cooler.Admission is $12 for adults, $6 for juniors age 7-12, and free for children 6 and under. Parking costs $5 per vehicle. Cash only.
Civil War Days at Duncans Mills, (707) 922-5901, civilwardays.net.
The tiny town of Duncans Mills is well-worth a visit as you travel from the river area to the coast. Founded in 1877, Duncans Mills was originally the location of Alexander Duncan’s saw mill. Lumber from the mill travelled via the North Pacific Coast Railroad to Sausalito and then onward to San Francisco via ferry and shallow draft scow schooners.
When the railroad ceased operations in the 1930’s, Duncans Mills suffered. The town experienced a rebirth during the country’s Bicentennial celebrations in 1976. Today the town is a quaint vibrant station on your way to the coast from the river towns: with a charming general store, fine restaurants including live music venue The Blue Heron, a candy store, a comfortable coffee shop and other thriving businesses.
11. Choo Choo on Up to Mendocino
The California Western Railroad, popularly known as the Skunk Train, runs between the historical and picturesque coastal town of Fort Bragg (founded prior to the Civil War as a military garrison) and the interchange with the Northwestern Pacific Railroad at Willits.
This heritage railroad, built during the timber rush of the late 19th century, initially carried redwood logs from the dense forests at Glenela (Glen Blair) to a newly built lumber mill located at Fort Bragg. In 1925, gas-powered, self-propelled, passenger railcars started running these tracks. The cars were nicknamed “Skunks” because people said, “you can smell ‘em before you can see ‘em.”
The “Super Skunk” — a Baldwin-built steam locomotive No.45 — now powers excursion trains through majestic redwood forests, scenic mountain meadows and over 30 trestles bridging the mountain waters of Northern California.
For reservations call (707) 964-6371, or click here to book online. Skunk Train, 100 W Laurel St, Fort Bragg.
Olivers founder Steve Maass, right, and chief executive officer Tom Scott in their Stony Point Road store.
PC:Oliver’s founder and president Steve Maass, right, and VP and general manager Tom Scott in their Stony Point Rd. store.
The most prominent face of Sonoma County’s Oliver’s Markets, Tom Scott, has announced his retirement from the business. Owner Steve Maass will return to daily operations in September. Scott has been with the company since 1989, joining just after the first store opened in Cotati.
Scott’s big presence and big personality extended beyond the daily operations to serving on several non-profit boards in the community including Community First Credit Union, Santa Rosa Community Health Center and the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. He was also instrumental in guiding the store’s house brands of wine, along with the newly-opened Tavern Off the Greenin Windsor.
“I have worked in the grocery business in one way or another for over 40 years,” Tom explains. “My wife and I want to travel and have flexibility at this point in our lives. I am ready for the next chapter.”
“We have worked side by side for 26 years,” Oliver’s Market Owner and President Steve Maass said. “I have relied on Tom’s guidance and leadership through all of our challenges and triumphs. He has also been an excellent ambassador for Oliver’s in the community. He will be greatly missed.”
Roasted summer squash with an almond romesco-style sauce and pepitas from Natalie Goble of Peter Lowell’s and the soon-to-open Handline Restaurant in Sebastopol. Heather Irwin/PD
Last May, a tiny pattypan squash seed was planted just off Bones Road in Sebastopol.
Over the next few weeks, that seed, along with hundreds of others, was nurtured in the warmth of Chef Natalie Goble’s Two Belly Acres Farm greenhouse, sprouting tiny leaves until it could withstand the unpredictability of June weather in Sonoma. Once replanted in the loamy soil, pesky gophers were kept at bay as blossoms formed, bugs nibbled, the sun shone and summer rolled on.
June turned to July, and miniature versions of the summer squash — pattypan, zucchini and crooknecks — grew by leaps and bounds, waiting patiently among the vines for their closeups at nearby Peter Lowell’s Restaurant, or the forthcoming Handline Restaurant in Sebastopol.
Natalie Goble at Two Belly Acres. Beth Schlanker/PD
Whether we think about it or not, behind every apple, every plum, lettuce, tomato and summer squash is a seed-to-table story. There are pests to control, weeds to pick and the backbreaking work of harvest before our produce sits neatly on a grocery shelf, at a farmers market or on our plates at a restaurant.
We wanted to know that story, about a single row of squash planted on a farm just off Bones Road, in west Sonoma County, that went from humble to haute in just a 5-mile radius.
Seed to table
Two days earlier, at the home of Goble and Lowell Sheldon, co-founder of Peter Lowell’s, a pile of summer squash from that single row of zucchini, crooknecks and pattypans had been roasted and diced, then covered with a sauce that Goble calls “smothered squash,” something between a romesco and a Oaxacan mole made with almonds, pumpkin seeds, tomato puree, spices and garlic. She’s trying out the dish for the couple’s soon-to-open casual eatery, Handline. The “Coastal California” restaurant has been a work in progress for more than a year and will focus on seafood, handmade tortillas and local produce.
Goble’s is the kind of dish that takes advantage of the bumper crop of squash about to descend on Handline and nearby Peter Lowell’s, which the couple also owns. Simple, but flavorful, it’s an incidentally vegan dish that showcases squash as a flavor carrier — something it’s well suited to do.
Squash blossom, Dawn Heumann
Unlike many some restaurants that get their produce from markets, Handline and Peter Lowell’s are committed to using Two Belly Acre’s entire harvest, even if that means summer squash in just about every dish during the height of the season. It’s something many home gardeners have experienced.
“Squash is of the moment at the farm, and I love its versatility, from shaved raw, battered and fried, and even blended,” said Goble. “I can do pretty much anything with it to showcase its flavor and texture,” she said.
Seasonal tsunamis
“Squash is a great vehicle for flavor,” said Joe Zobel, chef at Peter Lowell’s. The eight-year-old Sebastopol restaurant has become known for its commitment to using local produce, especially from its farm. During the summer, about 60 percent of the produce comes from Two Belly Acres farm.
That can lead to seasonal tsunamis at the restaurant.
Seasonal squash, Beth Schlanker/PD
“You can’t just grow a small amount of it,” said Zobel. He has been receiving boxes of squash for several weeks, which will continue well into September. Starting in August, he estimates they will receive 20 to 30 pounds a week from Two Belly Acres.
Sound like a lot? When he first started cooking at the restaurant two years ago, the farm was producing three times as much squash. “We’ve gotten better at staggering the harvest,” he said, with a sigh. Nearly 100 pounds of squash per week proved, well, challenging.
With today’s harvest, he has made mushroom broth for the squash crudo, pickled summer vegetables and squash polpette that’s almost too pretty to sully with a fork. At its heart, it’s a fancy sort of vegetable soup with squash fritters, but in this guise, there’s no doubt this is some pin-up worthy produce.
“You have to have a lot of ideas,” said Zobel. Other dishes in his squash portfolio include linguine with summer squash, Marin Coast Coon Stripe shrimp and squash blossoms; summer squash budino (pudding) with preserved plums, smoked morel mushrooms and corn polenta; tempura squash fritto misto with ricotta stuffed blossoms; and bone marrow broth with squash crudo.
Because the squash just keeps on coming.
Squash dish at Peter Lowell’s in Sebastopol. Beth Schlanker/PD
Where the magic happens
There’s still a lot happening a few miles away at Two Belly Acres. In the hot July sun, in what was once an apple orchard, Natalie Goble walks on the dirt between rows of chard, kale, baby tomatoes, onions and the squash.
This was where she grew up, where her father tried his hand at farming, where her brother had his “field of dreams” baseball field and, finally, the two acres of farm she, her brother and his girlfriend have rehabbed into a nearly year-round source of produce for the restaurant. If the gophers don’t get it first.
Goble reaches into a tangle of hairy leaves to snap off a pattypan squash, bright yellow with scalloped edges. She rolls it around in her hand, smiling. “It’s so pretty, so sunny,” she says, carefully sidestepping a new row of summer squash seedlings just beginning to sprout.
Still warm from the sun, this little pattypan that grew from a seed on a small farm on Bones Road is destined for another box of produce delivered to the restaurant, prepared by the chef and served up all summer long, until the last squash is harvested and another crop comes into focus.
But that’s another story.
(featured photo of Two Belly Acres Farm, photo: Dawn Heumann)
If all goes according to plan, an orange eyesore on Healdsburg’s main drag will be converted to an art gallery by the family of celebrity photographer Annie Leibovitz.
A former machine shop at 444 Healdsburg Avenue is the future site of an art gallery and creative space of which famed portrait photographer Annie Leibovitz is an investor, in Healdsburg. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
Leibovitz’s niece, Megan Steinman, will oversee the revitalization and operation of the space at 444 Healdsburg Ave., the former home of the Healdsburg Machine Co. , where rotary machines were made to crush and destem grapes.
Steinman and other members of her family, including her famous aunt, Leibovitz, purchased the rusted, 80-year-old building and announced plans to refurbish it and install a gallery and event space that would also offer symposiums, performances, author readings, perhaps even movie nights.
“It will be like a town hall for creativity,” Megan Steinman said, adding there “could be a chance” that Leibovitz’s photos will be on display.
“It’s super possible but it’s not the curatorial direction,” she said. “We are a family-run organization, interested in bringing art to Sonoma County. The space will be run by me, curated by me and artists selected by me.”
Steinman, 38, an independent curator and creative producer, expects the gallery to open in 2017.
With more than 80 restaurants, 40 wineries and 28 breweries, Outside Lands gourmet music festival (Aug 5-7, 2016) is as much about eating and drinking as it is about seeing bands. And for many gastronauts, it’s the entire point of walking miles around Golden Gate Park, alternately freezing and sweating, trying to hit as many restaurants as possible for three exhaustingly delightful stomach-filling days.
As opening day approaches, I spoke with Ari Feingold, who has spent most of the last nine years working with Bay Area restaurateurs — from Michelin-starred chefs to food trucks — to create the gastro-wonderland called Taste of the Bay Area.
What makes for a great menu item? “The key is being able to eat it with one hand,” said Feingold. though its not a deal-breaker, it gives eaters a chance to be mobile, dance and walk around.
What’s it like in the hours before the gates open? “I work on this year round, and we go from planning to execution, fully set up and ready to go, so actually its a pretty calm moment. All the work is in the time leading up to it, but once you’re on site, there’s almost like a calm,” said Feingold.
Is it hard for vendors like Rich Table to go from white tablecloth service to a small booth feeding thousands?
Many vendors are not accustomed to doing food at that kind of scale, and for both old and new vendors, so the OL team meets with the restaurants early on to work on layout, operations and logistics. “When they get to the event they are 100 percent ready for service, and that’s a commitment the festival has to make,” said Feingold. A small team of about 5 people work on the advance preparations, and about 20 onsite.
“Some of these restaurants are very expensive, and you can’t get in, but they’re all offering food in the $5 to $20 range, and its easier to access that cuisine,” he said. “You can eat Evan Rich’s (Rich Table) food for $10!”
How do you keep it interesting every year? “We feel like its our obligation to make it better,” he said. When OL started, they looked at the landscape and realized there was no reason a festival had to be full of frozen food. As one of the first big festivals to make food a huge priority, OL has evolved into a food festival as much as a music festival. “At this point, it’s grown beyond all of our imaginations,” he said.
How do people apply to be a vendor?
More than 90 percent of food vendors return each year, so there is always a wait list. But the team looks for diversity in culinary and menu options, where the restaurants are in the Bay Area and the price point. “This is a real microcosm of top tier chefs selling right next to pop-up restaurants without brick and mortar restaurants,” Feingold said.
This year, there were more than 200 applications for only a few spots. “Every vendor serves a unique purpose,” he said. One newcomer is The Farmer’s Wife, from Sebastopol, at the festival farmers market.
Are there any white whales?
Not really, says Feingold. “It’s fun to get some time out of the restaurant, and a community is built to have fun in the park.”
Favorite restaurants? “I couldn’t even limit it to 20,” he said, though he gets excited just like anyone else for newcomers.
BiteClub’s Guide to Outside Lands
The DL: Calories be damned you’re gonna walk it all off just getting from one food region to another. We usually start the day with a beer from Beerlands (breakfast of champs!) followed by a trip around the polo field restaurants, which get really busy later in the day. Once you’ve laid a solid base, head for Winelands and Cheeselands for a little upper crusting, as well as the new Outside Clams. We’re usually jonesing for a few sweets by then, so go back through the pass (hitting Bacon Lands and Cocktail Lands on the way, along with the GastroMagic Stage) with a destination of Chocolands. This area is usually a bit less nutty, and is a nice spot for a respite. Next be on your way to Hellman Hollow to find a few nibbles at EcoLands, and into the narrow pass through on the way back to the Polo Field. As evening rolls around the open area around the Sutro Stage cools off and you can hit the food trucks and vendors in Lendley Meadow. Repeat as necessary.
Coolest Upscale Experience: New this year is Forest Feast, a four-course dinner with the award-winning restaurant Trestle. The intimate, four-course menu includes falafel salad, corn soup, King salmon, braised beef shortribs, peach cobble, chocolate mousse and several wines. There are two seatings per day, and tickets are limited to $48 people per seating. Prices are $175 per person and include champagne, wine pairing and dinner. via http://sfoutsidelands.com/taste#trestle
What’s New: Belcampo Meat Co.: Bini’s Kitchen, Fine & Rare, FK Frozen Custard Bars, Four Barrel Coffee, Itani Ramen, Koja Kitchen, Rove Kitchen, Smooth Detour, Farmer’s Wife, The Japanese Pantry, Trestle, Mozzeria, Homestead Cookies, Il Morso, Outside Clams (seafood).
Food On Stage:GastroMagic is a mashup of food, music, comedy and cocktails, with performances by musicians and chefs in a more-chaotic-the-better, usually unscripted set. This year, look for a chef cook off with ugly produce and food waste; a Prince tribute band and purple yam ice cream from Humphry Slocombe, and a repeat of the massively awesome Big Freedia Bounce Brunch where this gender-bending bounce queen pelts the audience with beignets and booty shorts.
Since many of the vendors have been around for years, we can tell you a few of our longtime faves…
Baconland: Bacon Flights
Charles Chocolates: S’mores
Little Skillet: Fried chicken and waffles
Namu street Food: Korean Fried Chicken
Nombe: Ramen Burgers
Pica Pica: Arepas
Rich Table: Porcini Donuts with Raclette Cheeese
Rosamude Sausage Grill: Poutine
Wise and Sons: Bagels and Schmear, Pastrami Cheese Fries
Bacon Bacon Truck: Chocolate covered bacon
Curry Up Now: Sexy Fries
Del Popolo: Pizza (always a massive line)
Humphry Slocombe: Secret breakfast ice cream
Senior Sisig: Pork Sisig
Chairman: Steamed baos
Frickle Brothers: Fried Pickles
Guittard Chocolate Company: Melted Chocolate bars
Ninebark Restaurant has opened in Napa. Photo: Ninebark
Is downtown Napa hitting restaurant overload?
This week two high-profile restaurants have closed in downtown Napa, AtlasSocial and Ninebark. Both opened in 2015, with much fanfare and high-profile backers, but with a seeming flood of upscale eateries opening almost weekly in the small-but-exploding downtown area, could this be the first sign of the restaurant bubble popping in Napa? Or Wine Country in general?
Ninebark in Napa is a conde nast reader favorite for 2016 (PD file)
Atlas Social, a project of restaurateur Michael Gyetvan, seemed a sure win after the successes of Azzurro Pizzeria and Enoteca and Norman Rose Tavern. It wasn’t.
Basically, it’s become a challenge just to decide where to eat, and with so many high-dollar entrants into the game, where to spend your money — even when money is no object.
Also closed, at least temporarily, is Ninebark, which opened in the fall of 2015 with celebrated New York chef Matthew Lightner. Publicists announced June 29 that the restaurant will be doing a “necessary but temporary closure” without any further details — leading to plenty of head scratching, since the company that owns it, AVROKO Hospitality closed another restaurant in the same spot (starting as Fagiani’s, then pivoting to The Thomas) less than two years after opening.
A quick survey of Napa County’s restaurant inspections from 2009 to 2016 does show a steady increase in the number of eateries in the county (though it includes everything from gas stations to Michelin-starred spots), with an ongoing drop throughout the county and the city of Napa in 2015. If the trend continues, it could truly signal a change. Since it’s hard to quantify (350 reported restaurant inspections in 2009 to a peak of 474 in 2014 and a decline to 466 in 2015 and 325 so far in 2016), I can only say that anecdotally, it’s not hard to feel the land-grab for attention from new restaurants hitting its zenith. And a drop off looming ahead.
Ninebark Restaurant has opened in Napa. Photo: Ninebark
With that zenith, is increasing competition for attention by critics and eaters. Most recently, Curtis de Fede’s Miminashi,Ca’Momi Osteria and Two Birds/One Stonehave taken on plenty of limelight, along with the further afield openings of Charlie Palmer’s Harvest Table (St. Helena), the continued Michelin hubbub around the Restaurant at Meadowood. Meanwhile, established heavy-hitters like La Toque, French Laundry, Press, Michael Chiarello’s Bottega, Bouchon, Mustards, Zuzu, Auberge du Soliel and Oentori have become destinations, and relative newcomers like Torc,1313 Main, Evangeline and Sam’s Social Club remain on the radar.
Basically, it’s become a challenge just to decide where to eat, and with so many high-dollar entrants into the game, where to spend your money — even when money is no object.
Not surprisingly, we’re hearing much of the same in Healdsburg, where the restaurant scene is also hitting capacity, with several more restaurants on the horizon, and lots of recent openings spreading out the attention rather than focusing it on any one restaurant.
Atlas Social Club Restaurant in Napa opened in January 2015
Like any city, there’s a natural turnover, and not everyone will survive, but with more newcomers on the horizon, including a new steakhouse by Charlie Palmer at the forthcoming Archer Hotel in Napa, the CIA/Copia Restaurant and Michael Chiarello’s new food project in Yountville, competition is slated to get even tougher.
What’s your take? Survival of the fittest? Bubble bursting? Or just a fluke. Sound off.
