Little Saint in Healdsburg is the kind of place where you want to bring a book, order a hot chocolate and settle in. With plump sofas, quiet tables and enough intentionally cozy nooks, it has Sunday-brunch energy all week long.

But this is no patchouli-scented coffeehouse. The soulful design by celebrity decorator Ken Fulk is more “grandmacore” than granola, with a dose of Architectural Digest. Soaring ceilings, an open kitchen, a wine shop and bar fill the former 10,000-square-foot SHED space, making it unmistakably Healdsburg chic.

The food mirrors that high-low sensibility. Comfort classics — burgers, rice bowls, French toast, salads and pastries — arrive on earthy ceramic plates adorned with edible flowers and generous handfuls of fresh herbs. Everything is plant-based, with no dairy, eggs or other animal products on the menu.

That was the vision of owner Laurie Ubben, a longtime vegan and animal rights advocate.

“The number one nonnegotiable was that it would be 100% plant-based,” Ubben said. “I believe food is one of the most powerful ways we can care for one another and for the planet. We’re trying to show that choosing plant-based isn’t a compromise, but one of the most exciting, flavorful and satisfying ways to eat.”

Since opening in 2022, the kitchen has remained committed to that mission, evolving from simple to cerebral before settling into a comfortable middle ground under culinary director Deborah Mullin. The menu is ambitious enough to stay interesting while remaining familiar enough to appeal well beyond the vegan faithful.

Under Mullin, the kitchen is expanding the possibilities of plant-based cooking. Chickpea water, known as aquafaba, replaces egg whites in foams and froths. Cashew cream becomes a whipped topping that most diners would mistake for dairy. Simmered sea moss forms a gel that acts as a binder and gives the cheese in the California Sunshine Bowl its stretchy, satisfying texture.

That spirit of experimentation extends to the restaurant’s Little Saint Farm, which now supplies much of the seasonal produce that shapes the menu. The farm grows more than 300 varieties of fruits, vegetables, herbs and flowers. Some arrive nearly untouched on a crudité platter; others are pickled, preserved or powdered, extending the harvest while advancing the restaurant’s sustainability goals.

“A lot of what we do is built around a closed-loop mindset, where we’re constantly asking how we can use as much of each ingredient as possible and give it a second or even third life,” Mullin said.

The result is thoughtful food that wears its ideals lightly, inviting diners to linger over a meal rather than making a point of its principles.

What to eat

The menu skips qualifiers like “faux” and “alternative,” using familiar terms such as butter, cheese, burger and chorizo. Just know they are all made without animal products. Items containing gluten, nuts or soy are clearly marked.

Most popular dishes: California Sunshine Bowl and spinach and fennel sausage lasagna.

Trio of dips with farm-fresh veggies, $25: A colorful spread of snap peas, broccolini, radishes and squash served with beet hummus, smoked carrot dip and cultured cashew dip. Fresh, vibrant and a must-order.

Mixed-grain sourdough focaccia, $9: Warm, with a crisp crust and served with locally sourced olive oil.

Spicy Bibim Noodle Bowl, $25: Sesame-slicked soba noodles topped with a skewer of gochujang-glazed oyster mushrooms, crispy shallots, fermented cabbage, rainbow carrots, nori crunch and tsukemono. Every bite balances heat, crunch, acidity and umami. I’d order it every visit.

Avocado toast, $18: Thick slices of toast piled with avocado and topped with edible flower petals, sea salt flakes, fresh herbs and whipped dairy-free feta.

Burger and oven potatoes, $25: A housemade seitan (wheat gluten) patty infused with mushroom broth and beet, topped with carrot-based cheese, onion, house pickles and special sauce on a soft brioche bun. Even devoted meat eaters shouldn’t feel shortchanged.

Pastries: This is where plant-based skeptics may become believers. Pastry program manager Dominick Miller-Luna and the baking team produce cakes, tarts and French pastries using nut milks, oils and other plant-based ingredients that rival traditional versions. The Diplomat is exceptional, but the rainbow carrot cake layered with lemon balm buttercream and yuzu curd is the dessert I’d come back for.

Also worth exploring are the wine list, produce-driven cocktails and thoughtfully composed nonalcoholic drinks. I was especially taken with the Ashwagandha Cocoa, made with vegan TCHO chocolate, cinnamon, clove and cashew whipped cream. The herb is prized in Ayurvedic medicine for its calming properties, but I suspect the whipped cream deserves equal credit.

The deals and draws

Happy hour runs from 3-6 p.m. daily and all day Wednesday. Free live music begins at 7 p.m. every Thursday, featuring emerging artists from around the country. From 8-10 a.m. on Tuesdays, any pastry purchase comes with a complimentary drip coffee at the coffee bar, open from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. The Little Saint Farm CSA is also worth a look for anyone interested in the week’s harvest.

The price

Most entrees are $16 to $25.

The spot

Open from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. 25 North St., Healdsburg, 707-433-8207, littlesainthealdsburg.com