An assortment of pastries at Paris Baguette in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
One of Sonoma County’s most breathlessly anticipated openings this year didn’t come courtesy of a Michelin-starred chef or culinary wunderkind. Instead, the spotlight landed on Paris Baguette, a South Korean bakery chain quietly making its mark on American suburbs, one pastry case at a time.
If you’ve been following the social media buzz about the new Santa Rosa location (“They restocked the mochi doughnuts!”), you’d think Paris Baguette’s sweet treats were spun from pixie dust and unicorn giggles. And maybe they are — the lengthy lines and drive-by rubberneckers tell a similar story: Paris Baguette is undeniably a hot commodity in Sonoma County.
With over 4,000 locations worldwide, 250 franchises across North America and another 500 in development, the bakery giant has perfected a formula that works, even in the age of Ozempic: Self-service bakery cases.
For the uninitiated, it’s a dizzying prospect: Grab a tray and tongs, then let yourself wander through cases brimming with cream-filled, sugar-dusted, glazed and lacquered treats designed for maximum temptation. It’s a sugary rush to weigh the options — should you opt for custard-filled doughnuts and pineapple brûlée Danishes, or apple turnovers and raspberry almond croissants?
Self-serve pastry cases at Paris Baguette in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)Paris Baguette in Santa Rosa, a South Korean-based bakery chain, is a serve-yourself wonderland of cream-filled pastries, croissants, breads and savory treats. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Pinch yourself — yes, this is real — then, for good measure, peruse savory options like goat cheese-fig pizzettas, ham-and-cheese hash-brown “bread” and garlic-butter croissants. Asian-inspired items like chewy mochi doughnuts, red bean buns, milk bread and savory croquettes are a delightful left turn from the traditional patisserie.
Paris Baguette is betting on your eyes being far bigger than your stomach as you somehow justify the five pastries now on your tray. But the journey doesn’t end here. A separate refrigerated case (hands-off, no self-serve here) is loaded with chocolate-ganache cake slices, berry tarts, soufflé cheesecake and three-layer whipped-cream chiffon cakes. Coffee drinks, sandwiches and salads let you pretend this is a balanced meal.
The real question, though, in addition to “what to get,” is whether Paris Baguette is actually good. Or at least good enough to challenge local heavyweights like Sarmentine, Costeaux Bakery, Patisserie Angelica or Stellina Pronto.
The answer? Yes… and also no. If you’re in the mood for a DIY bakery adventure and eager to try sweet rice doughnuts and cream-filled everything, Paris Baguette is your pick. It’s a playful, indulgent experience that’s currently winning the hearts of Sonoma County’s pastry enthusiasts.
Croissant doughnuts at Paris Baguette in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Counting myself among their number, I spent nearly $150 sampling as many items as possible — that’s the kind of determined dedication I have to my craft. Favorites included a crisp palmier ($3.99), mini lemon cream-filled croissants ($3.79), a strawberry cream cake slice ($8.49), a croissant-doughnut ($5.59), a curry croquette ($5.29), and a seasonal mini French roll cake ($6.49). If you’re a chocolate fan, the chocolate-dipped and chocolate cream-filled chocolate supreme croissant ($6.99) is your jam.
But if I’m picking pastry favorites overall, I’d choose a Sarmentine croissant, a chocolate cream-filled cornetto from Stellina Pronto, or a slice of cake from Costeaux or Patisserie Angelica over Paris Baguette any day. The small-batch quality just isn’t in the same league.
So, is it worth the visit? Absolutely. And bring the kids. Or don’t, because you deserve a moment of sugary zen, free from sticky little hands. Either way, avoid the weekend crowds and go during a weekday morning for a cinnamon churro latte and a warm breakfast croissant (they’ll heat it up for you if you ask). Prices are comparable to other local bakeries, with most pastries priced between $3.99 and $5.49 and cake slices between $6.50 and $8.50.
The verdict: Paris Baguette makes for a fun family detour or morning latte run, and is a perfect excuse for a book club “taste test” outing. But when it comes to pure pastry devotion, my carb loyalties still lie with Quail & Condor’s kouign-amann, Wild Flour Bread’s cinnamon rolls and Johnny Doughnuts’ raspberry Bismark.
Turns out, I didn’t leave my heart in Paris Baguette.
John Ash memorial at Vinarosa Resort and Spa in Santa Rosa, Saturday, Nov. 1, 2025. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
The culinary world feels emptier now after the passing of Sonoma County’s James Beard Award-winning chef John Ash on Aug. 8 from a heart condition. The harvest issue of Sonoma magazine had just gone to print, but our team chorused that a proper salute was owed to the legendary talent who put local, exquisitely fresh, seasonal ingredients in the national spotlight decades ago.
Ash, 83, dedicated his career to clean, sparkling cooking that riveted us with its artistry and clever wine pairings, which earned him the title of “the father of Wine Country cuisine.” Although long-retired from kitchens, Ash continued to write, host a radio show, and attend local wine and food events where we could look forward to being greeted by his gentle smile and warm hello.
A pioneer in farm-to-table
“I remember getting to know John when he was the culinary director at the Fetzer Valley Oaks Food and Wine Center in Mendocino County,” reflectsBetsy Fischer, Santa Rosa Junior College department chair and instructor of Culinary Arts. “My wine tasting friends and I loved to visit there, with John introducing us to his world as he worked in the expansive gardens gathering up the ingredients he would cook for us later that day. Farm-to-table was not quite a thing yet, but I’m sure those days figured prominently on John’s future path to putting Northern California on the food and wine map.”
Chef John Ash, who died Aug. 8, 2025, was a two-time James Beard award-winning cookbook author and is considered the “Father of Wine Country Cuisine.” He opened his namesake restaurant, John Ash & Co., in 1980. (Courtesy of John Ash, file)
On connecting wine and food
For Merry Edwards, founder of Merry Edwards Winery and Vineyards in Sebastopol, this time is bittersweet. “I’ve felt an upwelling of cherished memories from our time together over nearly five decades,” she says. “I was first introduced to John by my college friend Don Baumhefner in 1977. He was putting together a team to revitalize the old Russian River Vineyards property in Forestville — he as GM of a hotel, John as chef, and me as winegrower. Over the years I partnered with John for many charity industry events, participated in his cooking classes at Ramekins in Sonoma as a guest winemaker, and appeared on the Food Network channel with him. John was always so extremely creative and talented. He was also kind, funny, and beyond generous. His contributions to the farm-to-table movement were similar to those of Julia Child and Alice Waters. I was honored to be his friend.”
John Ash memorial at Vinarosa Resort and Spa in Santa Rosa, Saturday, Nov. 1, 2025. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)Hog Island Oysters on the half shell served during a memorial for John Ash. Photo taken Saturday, Nov. 1, 2025, at Vinarosa Resort and Spa in Santa Rosa. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
A champion of sustainability
John Finger, the founder and CEO of Hog Island Oyster Co. in Marshall, credits Ash for helping establish the immensely popular waterfront mollusk farm and string of Bay Area restaurants. “John was, from Hog Island’s very beginnings, one of our greatest champions. He embraced our efforts to grow locally farmed shellfish at a time when most oysters in our market were coming from far afield. We shared a deep passion for sustainable seafood, so when we first needed to raise money, he became one of our earliest shareholders and encouraged many friends and colleagues to join him. As we grew and made the leap to open our own restaurants, his mentorship — and his guidance as a board member — proved invaluable. When he suggested creating the “Hog Island Book of Fish & Seafood,” published in 2023, it immediately felt right. He ensured our voice was represented and included many of our chefs’ recipes in its pages. I miss him dearly.”
Stewart Cellars tasting room in Yountville. (Douglas Friedman)
Lots of wineries say they source grapes from the finest vineyards in [insert famous wine region here]. But in the case of Stewart Cellars, the claim is not marketing fluff. Over the past 25 years, the winery has established a reputation for producing expressive wines that reflect their Napa Valley and Sonoma County origins.
The story
Michael Stewart founded Stewart Cellars after selling the Texas-based technology company he had led for 25 years. A longtime wine enthusiast and frequent visitor to Napa Valley, Stewart knew exactly what he wanted to do for his next act: settle in California and start a family winery. Partnering with winemaker Paul Hobbs, he released his first small-lot Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir wines in 2000.
Stewart’s retirement project evolved into a true family enterprise. His daughter, Caroline Stewart Guthrie, now oversees daily operations; his son, James Stewart, leads sales and marketing; and his son-in-law, Blair Guthrie, serves as winemaker and vineyard manager.
The Montecillo Vineyard above the Valley of the Moon, Thursday, July 30, 2020. The head-trained Cabernet and other varietals were planted in the 1960s. To the west, Sonoma Mountain peaks above the typical summer marine layer. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Stewart Cellars buys grapes from several historic Beckstoffer vineyards in Napa Valley — including the legendary To Kalon — and grows its own on the family’s spectacular Montecillo Vineyard in the Moon Mountain appellation. Set on a rocky, wind-swept property high in the Mayacamas Mountains, the dry-farmed Montecillo estate includes one of Sonoma County’s oldest Cabernet Sauvignon blocks, planted in 1964.
Along with acclaimed Cabernet Sauvignon, the winery’s portfolio includes Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and more.
The vibe
Stewart Cellars tasting room in Yountville. (Douglas Friedman)
The Stewart tasting room is set in a compact stone building that looks historic but isn’t. (It was built about a decade ago from local stone that matches the materials used in much of Yountville’s downtown, so it fits right in.)
Inside, the space is bright and chic, done up in creamy tones with warm wood trim and high ceilings. Along with table and counter seating, there’s a pretty patio out back that provides a mini retreat from the bustle of Washington Street.
Inside the tasting room at Stewart Cellars, wine ambassador Manny Lopez, right, talks with Alex Grisanti from Mississippi, Friday, Oct. 21, 2025, in Yountville. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)Patrons enjoy a warm fall afternoon at Stewart Cellars outdoor tasting patio, Friday, Oct. 21, 2025, in Yountville. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
The adjacent Nomad Room, a stand-alone space used for special tastings, has an upscale cabin-meets-library ambiance. The bookshelves lining the walls include everything from first-edition novels to iconic cookbooks — and they’re all for sale.
On the palate
A selection from Stewart Cellars NOMAD collection, Friday, Oct. 21, 2025, in Yountville. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Guthrie likes to take a minimalist approach in the cellar, stepping back to let the vineyards and vintages show their personalities. The aromas of the 2023 Sonoma Mountain Chardonnay ($45) had me expecting a full-bodied, oak-driven profile. Instead, the wine surprised me with its lovely freshness and minerality. The 2022 GSM from Rossi Ranch ($65) has a beautiful aroma of raspberries and spice, along with savory notes and a silky texture.
At $175, the Nomad 2023 Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon from Montecillo Vineyard is far from an everyday wine, but it’s definitely worth tasting if you get the chance. With deep aromas of oak and spice, and a solid, tannic structure, this is one to age or decant.
Tastings range from $45 for a mixed flight of current releases to $150 for the Nomad sampling of six single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons.
Beyond the bottle
A tower of fall-themed macarons sits in the window at Madeleine’s Macarons storefront in Yountville, Sunday, Sept. 10, 2023. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Just next door to Stewart Cellars, you’ll find a different kind of tasting flight at Madeleine’s Macarons. The artisan shop offers a macaron and coffee flight ($38), which pairs four coffee drinks with four sweet treats. If you have time to linger, order a French-style crepe for lunch — I have my eye on the fig and brie version — or sign up for a macaron baking class.
Open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. Stewart Cellars, 6752 Washington St., Yountville. 707-963-9160, stewartcellars.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food, and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED, and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.
Unless it’s raining, the expansive terrace is the place to be at Martinelli Winery & Vineyards in Windsor. (Martinelli Winery & Vineyards)
While Zinfandel is made all over the Golden State, it is most closely associated with Sonoma County.
Here, warm days and cool nights during the growing season allow winemakers to produce some of the world’s best Zinfandels. The region’s varied terrain, terroir and climate also allow for a variety of expressions of the grape — from light, refreshing rosés to bold, jammy reds.
We rounded up 17 wineries that offer a great introduction to Sonoma County’s Zins. (Remember to call ahead to make reservations as these wineries are popular with visitors.)
Bedrock Wine Co.
Morgan Twain-Peterson, son of Joel Peterson (aka the Godfather of Zin), has big shoes to fill. Thankfully, he and his business partner Chris Cottrell source grapes from renowned, historic vineyards to craft glorious Zinfandels. Among them is Carlisle Vineyard in the Russian River Valley, a 90% Zinfandel vineyard planted in 1927 that lends to bold, warm Zins. The estate’s spicy, deep-fruited Old Vine Zinfandel is made from a blend of grapes sourced from various vineyards. 414 First St. E., Sonoma, 707-343-1478, bedrockwineco.com
The tasting room at Bedrock Wine Co. in Sonoma. The winery was founded by Joel Peterson, aka the Godfather of Zin. (Bedrock Wine Co.)Outdoor tasting at Nalle Winery in Healdsburg. The winery produces elegant, old-vine Zinfandels. (Heidi Adler)
Nalle Winery
This family-owned Dry Creek Valley winery is known for Zins, thanks to the old-vine Zinfandel planted in 1927 by winemaker Andrew Nalle’s great-great-grandparents at the family estate. The elegant Dry Creek Valley Old Vine Zinfandel features complex notes of dark berries layered with subtle French oak. The Zinot Noir is a fun blend of Zinfandel and Pinot Noir, made from grapes grown at the organically farmed Hopkins River Ranch in the Russian River Valley. 2383 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-1040, nallewinery.com
Ridge Vineyards
One of the pioneers of California Zinfandel, Ridge Vineyards first planted the grape in Sonoma County in 1892. Today, the winery continues to produce some of the finest Zinfandels in the world from its historic Lytton Springs and Monte Bello vineyards. The winery has successfully grown three Zinfandel clones, discovered in Croatia’s Dalmatia region, which were key to pinpointing the grape variety’s origin. 650 Lytton Springs Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-7721, ridgewine.com/visit/lytton-springs
The tasting terrace at Ridge Vineyards in Healdsburg, the largest grower of organically certified grapes in Sonoma County. (Robert Holmes)
Kokomo Winery
Founded in 2004, Kokomo Winery is named for owner/winemaker Erik Miller’s hometown in Indiana. Miller’s wines showcase Sonoma County’s diverse growing regions, predominantly the Dry Creek Valley, which is famous for producing noteworthy Zins. Single-vineyard wines (wines made with grapes from only one vineyard), like the Pauline’s Vineyard or Monte Rosso Vineyard Zinfandels, are the name of the game here. 4791 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-0200, kokomowines.com
Dry Creek Vineyard
This winery is set right in the heart of the Dry Creek Valley and is known not only for its superb Zins but also for its Sauvignon Blancs and gorgeous grounds with picnic tables and bocce courts. Tastings take place outdoors on the lawn or inside in a tasting room modeled after a Loire Valley chateau. 3770 Lambert Bridge Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-1000, drycreekvineyard.com
Seghesio Family Vineyards
This family vineyard has been making Zinfandels since 1895 and is one of the most respected producers of Sonoma County Zin. The winery’s Old Vine Zinfandel, sourced from vines that are over 70 years old, is a particular standout. Guests can taste Zins and Italian varietals inside or in the outdoor lounge. They can also bring their own picnic blanket and enjoy Seghesio wines by the bottle on the lawn. 700 Grove St., Healdsburg, 707-433-3579, seghesio.com
Seghesio Family Vineyards in Healdsburg. (Seghesio Family Vineyards)Limerick Lane Winery is located in the northeast corner of Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley (just south of downtown Healdsburg). (Limerick Lane)
Limerick Lane Winery
This 30-acre winery estate is located in the northeast corner of Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley (just south of downtown Healdsburg). The wines are made from grapes grown on the property, including Zinfandel. In addition to tasting wines, visitors can tour the vineyards and production facility. The winery also has a picnic area with views of the surrounding vineyards. 1023 Limerick Lane, Healdsburg, 707-433-9211, limericklanewines.com
Mauritson Wines
The Mauritson family has been farming grapes in the Dry Creek Valley for over six generations. Their tasting room is open daily and pours a wide selection of Zinfandels from vines that are more than 100 years old. These ancient vines produce concentrated fruit flavors and aromas that are the hallmark of old-vine Zinfandel. 2859 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-0804, mauritsonwines.com
Bella Vineyards and Wine Caves
This family-owned winery, located at the western edge of Dry Creek Valley, is best known for Zinfandels made from grapes planted more than a century ago. The wine caves, built in the early 2000s, are used for aging the wine and are a popular attraction. Visitors can tour the caves and taste wine there. 9711 W. Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-473-9171, bellawinery.com
The family-owned Bella Vineyards and Wine Caves, located at the western edge of Dry Creek Valley, is best known for Zinfandels made from grapes planted more than a century ago. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)The garden at Quivira Vineyards in Healdsburg. (Quivira Vineyards)
Quivira Vineyards & Winery
This winery and farm in the Dry Creek Valley is committed to “holistic farming,” which includes organic and biodynamic practices such as dry farming, which minimizes water use. The result of these efforts is delicious Zinfandels (and other wines) that are also eco-friendly. Guests can sip wines by the gardens or take an Estate Tour through the sustainable farm, vineyards and garden. 4900 W. Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-8333, quivirawine.com
Alexander Valley Vineyards
This tasting room north of Healdsburg has been pouring excellent Zins since the early 1970s. The vineyard is home to some of the oldest Zinfandel vines in California, and the family-owned, family-operated winery focuses on producing small-lot, handcrafted wines that reflect the unique terroir of the Alexander Valley. The winery offers complimentary tastings on Fridays as well as daily vineyard hikes with lunch and wine tasting for $85. 8644 Highway 128, Healdsburg, 707-433-7209, avvwine.com
Acorn Winery
This small lot winery is located in one of the warmest sections of the Russian River Valley. It offers private tastings and tours (by appointment only) and is a must-visit for its Italian grape varietals and old-vine Zinfandels. The winery is owned and operated by husband-and-wife team Betsy and Bill Nachbaur and the tasting room is located in their home. 12040 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 707-836-3099, acornwinery.com
Acorn Winery is located in one of the warmest sections of the Russian River Valley. (Acorn Winery)Hartford Family Winery’s main tasting room in the Green Valley of the Russian River Valley viticultural area is the perfect place to enjoy the winery’s cooler climate Zinfandels. (Hartford Family Winery)
Hartford Family Winery
Hartford’smain tasting room in the Green Valley of the Russian River Valley viticultural area is the perfect place to enjoy the winery’s cooler climate Zinfandels. This is where the winery estate is located and tastings are offered by appointment. For a more urban tasting experience, head to the winery’s tasting room in downtown Healdsburg, where you can sample Zinfandels (and other wines) seven days a week. 8075 Martinelli Road, Forestville, 707-904-6950; 331 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-904-6960, hartfordwines.com
Pedroncelli Winery
A family-owned and operated winery since 1927, Pedroncelli focuses on producing premium wines from sustainably farmed vineyards. This Dry Creek Valley winery is committed to making quality wines at affordable prices, and for this, it has gained a loyal following. In addition to using sustainable farming practices, the winery also has been certified for its efforts to protect waterways and fish habitats. 1220 Canyon Road, Geyserville, 707-857-3531, pedroncelli.com
Pedroncelli Winery, a family-owned and operated winery since 1927, focuses on producing premium wines from sustainably-farmed vineyards. (Pedroncelli Winery)Martinelli Winery & Vineyards in Windsor. (Martinelli Winery & Vineyards)
Martinelli Winery & Vineyards
One of the oldest family-owned wineries in Sonoma County, Martinelli is known for its cool-climate Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays — but they also make Zinfandels. The picturesque Russian River Valley estate features a historic stone winery, centuries-old oak trees, and manicured gardens. Visitors can take in stunning views of rolling hillsides blanketed with vines while wine tasting on the patio. 3360 River Road, Windsor, 707-525-0570, martinelliwinery.com
Kunde Family Winery
This winery, located among rolling hills in the heart of Sonoma Valley, is a favorite destination for many first-time visitors to Sonoma County. After tasting Zinfandels, guests can tour the grounds, which include a vineyard, a lake in front of the tasting room, an olive grove and a garden with native California plants. The winery also hosts tours of its caves. 9825 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-833-5501, kunde.com
Once & Future Wine
When Joel Peterson, winemaker and founder of Ravenswood Winery, closed his Sonoma tasting room in 2019, it was a blow to fans of his bold Zins. Peterson went on to work at several prestigious wineries and eventually founded the wine label Once & Future Wine, which quickly gained a cult following for its Sonoma Valley Zinfandels. Peterson doesn’t have a tasting room, but his wines can be purchased through his email list at onceandfuturewine.com.
Shana Bull, Sarah Doyle and Maci Martell contributed to this article.
Glowing trucks during the Geyserville Lighted Tractor Parade held on Saturday, Nov. 25, 2023, in downtown Geyserville. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)
Sundown before suppertime can feel a bit melancholy, but the longer nights do have at least one up side: welcoming winter with spectacular light parades displaying all the whimsy and wonder that you’ll only find in Sonoma County.
Winterblast
This family-friendly street party kicks off the festive season with not one, but two parades of light-strung living room furniture — namely sofas, since this celebration is centered in the South A Street (aka SOFA) arts district. Bask in the creative glow of live music, street performers, and open art studios between parades. 3-8:30 p.m., Nov. 15. South A Street & Sebastopol Avenue, Santa Rosa, winterblastsantarosa.com
Giving Thanks for Taco Tuesday
Santa Rosa’s Taco Tuesday Bike Ride club will host a Thanksgiving-themed ride at the North Mendocino Parking Lot on the Tuesday before the holiday. The event will include free hot cider and other treats, served at Courthouse Square. 6 p.m., Nov. 25. The Taco Tuesday bike rides take place every Tuesday; stay tuned for a possible Christmas-themed ride. North Mendocino Parking Lot, 550 Silva Ave., Santa Rosa, facebook.com/groups/santarosatacotuesday
Juan Chavez, left, and Chad Hunt, founders of the Taco Tuesday Ride, with hardcore bicycle riders in Old Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa, Tuesday, Nov. 28, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Glowing trucks during the Geyserville Lighted Tractor Parade held on Saturday, Nov. 25, 2023, in downtown Geyserville. (Erik Castro / for The Press Democrat)
Geyserville Tractor Parade
The population of Geyserville (830) easily triples as crowds line the tiny town’s main drag for a parade that salutes the area’s agricultural roots. The tradition started organically 15 years ago when a few locals showed up to the town’s tree lighting with tractors and trucks adorned with lights. Now it’s one of Sonoma County’s most celebrated holiday events. 6-8 p.m., Nov. 29. Geyserville Avenue & Canyon Road, Geyserville, visitgeyserville.com/tractor-parade
Sonoma Valley Lighted Tractor Parade
Celebrate the holiday season with decorated tractors and Sonoma Valley wine at the Sonoma Valley Vintners & Growers Alliance’s third annual Lighted Tractor Parade around the Sonoma Plaza. Nearby on Spain Street, “Holiday Headquarters” will open at 4:30 p.m. with beer, wine, cookies and hot chocolate, plus photo ops with Santa. 6:30 p.m., Nov. 29. Sonoma Plaza, Sonoma, sonomavalleywine.com/events/lighted-tractor-parade
Sonoma Valley’s annual Lighted Tractor Parade took place around Sonoma Plaza on Saturday, Nov. 30, 2024. (Robbi Pengelly / The Sonoma Index-Tribune)Occidental’s popular Christmas in the Redwoods gets packed with crowds. (Sonoma County Tourism)
Christmas in the Redwoods
Sonoma County’s newest light tradition is a parade turned inside out. Join a parade of vehicles and view a festive forest of illuminated redwoods from the comfort of your car. The event at the Alliance Redwoods Conference Grounds drew such big crowds when it started two years ago, traffic backed up for miles, but organizers have solved that by instituting a reservation system this year. After enjoying the 15-minute drive, head to downtown Occidental to sip cocoa with Santa and Bigfoot. 5:30-8:30 p.m., Dec. 4-7, 11-14, 18-21; $10 per car, reservations required. 6250 Bohemian Highway, Occidental, allianceredwoods.com
Merry Healdsburg Community Bike Ride
Prior to the annual Merry Healdsburg Tree Lighting Celebration on the Plaza, grassroots organization Move! Healdsburg will host its Merry Healdsburg Bike Ride. Riders are encouraged to deck out their bikes with festive holiday decor, and also bring helmets and front and rear bike lights. The bike route is 5.8 miles and starts at the corner of Center and Matheson streets. Meet between 4:15-4:30 p.m.; ride starts at 4:30 p.m., Dec. 5. Healdsburg Plaza, Healdsburg,movehealdsburg.org
The Petaluma turning basin is full on bright with the lighted boat parade, Saturday, Dec. 11, 2021. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Lighted Boat Parade
The merriment is all maritime at this decades-long tradition that includes everything from yachts to sailboats and even stand-up paddle boarders. Hosted by the Petaluma Yacht Club, a flotilla of vessels glides up the Petaluma River to the turning basin, their lights reflecting off the water and setting seemingly all of downtown aglow. 6-8 p.m., Dec. 13. First & C Streets, Petaluma, petalumadowntown.com/lighted-boat-parade
Penngrove Holiday Parade of Lights
The Penngrove Social Firemen will host its 10th annual Holiday Parade of Lights featuring cheery lighted farm vehicles parading down Main Street. Local merchants will serve soup, pizza, hot cider and other street food. The parade starts at Penngrove Park and prospective parade entries must register in advance. 6-7 p.m., Dec. 14. Penngrove Park, 11800 Main St., Penngrove, penngrovesocialfiremen.org
Petaluma Holiday Lighted Bike Ride
For festive fun on wheels, the Petaluma Cycling Club will host its fourth annual Holiday Lighted Bike Ride along a flat, 5.4-mile loop through residential neighborhoods on the west side of town. The free community bike ride welcomes people of all ages on all types of wheeled devices. Riders should arrive by 5 p.m. at McNear Park in Petaluma, where the ride begins at 5:30 p.m. sharp. Participants are encouraged to bring bike lights, helmets and bells for a safe, dazzling ride. Registration is required; register online. 5 p.m., Dec. 19. McNear Park at 11th and F streets, Petaluma, petalumawheelmen.org
Growler’s Alexi Kulikouskly skates with the puck during their practice at Snoopy’s Home Ice in Santa Rosa on Jan. 2, 2024. (Abraham Fuentes/ For The Press Democrat)
The hottest ticket in town this winter may very well be rinkside, as the Santa Rosa Growlers skate into their sixth season at Snoopy’s Home Ice. Last season, the team played to sold-out crowds, with hundreds of hoodie- and flannel-clad fans filling every seat and every bit of standing-room-only space along the glass, where the action is often just inches away.
The Growlers are a “Senior A” hockey team, which co-owners Sean and Michelle Harris explain is a semi-professional league for former junior and college players who are no longer chasing a pro career but still crave high-level, competitive, full-contact hockey. The team draws a dedicated group of players from not only Sonoma County, but all over the Bay Area, one commuting from as far as Manteca.
“These players, their whole lives have been traveling to play hockey,” Sean explains. “Being on the ice is kind of addictive to these guys. And to get that high level of competition, they’re willing to put in that time.”
Growler’s Adam Wade skates with the puck during practice at Snoopy’s Home Ice in Santa Rosa on Jan. 2, 2024. (Abraham Fuentes/ For The Press Democrat)Fans at a Santa Rosa Growlers game at Snoopy’s Home Ice in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy Andy Lumens)
The Harrises, along with the Growlers’ other co-owners and founders Blake Johnson and John Keshishian, are on a mission to turn Santa Rosa into a hockey town — and it seems to be working. Not only are 700 fans flocking to each game, but this year’s schedule has expanded to include teams from St. Louis, Chicago, and even the New York Police Department, as Santa Rosa’s reputation grows as the place to play.
Snoopy’s Home Ice is part of the charm, with its quaint Swiss Chalet decor, a Zamboni (arguably America’s cutest) painted with an ice-skating Peanuts gang, and the Growlers’ fuzzy bear mascot, Sudsy, on hand to entertain young fans.
“Our barn is probably the best barn,” says Sean, explaining that “barn” is hockey slang for arena. For many teams, that means a cavernous tin shed that doesn’t do much to draw a crowd. “They don’t get 700 people cheering and yelling. It’s an all-around experience for teams to come here. The word’s out, and the quality of hockey is very, very good, too.”
One challenge for visiting teams is Section 102, a notorious group of hecklers whose sole mission is “to live in the heads” of opposing players, according to Sebastopol resident John Garretson, one of the group’s founders. He emphasizes the heckling is all in good fun. While sometimes rowdy, they keep it clean for the kids in the crowd.
The Santa Rosa Growlers mascot interacts with a fan at Snoopy’s Home Ice in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy Andy Lumens)The Santa Rosa Growlers at Snoopy’s Home Ice in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy Andy Lumens)
For fans like Garretson, who find professional hockey a little too fast-paced and sterile, Growlers games offer a more visceral, emotional experience — especially when the helmets come off and the fists fly, which can happen several times a game. “Local hockey has more highs and lows. It has the villain from out of town, it has your local hero. There’s more drama to it,” he says.
A DJ keeps the mood lively throughout the game, spinning a mix of ’80s hair metal bands, ’90s hip-hop chart toppers, and Neil Diamond’s ultimate crowd-pleaser, “Sweet Caroline.” Between periods, adults can grab beer and wine from the beverage booth just behind the team benches, while kids head to The Warm Puppy Café for a cup of hot cocoa — a treat and hand-warmer in one.
For Garretson, and many others who’ve made Growlers games a regular part of their winter Friday and Saturday nights, the experience is about more than just hockey.
“It’s high-energy, fast-paced entertainment deeply rooted in the community,” says Garret- son. “I see people at every game I go to. People I grew up with, people I played street hockey with as a teenager, people I’ve worked with. You can feel the community, the interconnectivity. It feels like home.”
Nick Peyton, maitre d’ and partner at Cyrus restaurant, won a 2025 special Michelin Service Award Thursday July 24, 2025, in Geyserville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Nick Peyton’s job is to make people happy. As maître d’ of Michelin-starred Cyrus restaurant in Geyserville, which he co-owns with chef Doug Keane, his job is to make every guest feel like a celebrity — from the moment they walk in the door until their final goodbye.
For 50 years Peyton has managed the front-of-house for some of the Bay Area’s toniest restaurants, anticipating the needs of every diner and remaining cool as a cucumber while smoothing any service wrinkles. If the cook has quit, the kitchen is on fire, and the reservation system has gone kaput, he makes sure guests never know it.
In June, he received the 2025 California Michelin Guide Service Award for creating “the antidote to the traditional, snooty fine dining experience,” according to the international restaurant guide.
He’s flattered, but he’s got Champagne glasses to fill and guests to seat as another evening service at Cyrus begins. It’s showtime.
Nick Peyton, maitre d’ and partner at Cyrus restaurant, won a 2025 special Michelin Service Award Thursday July 24, 2025, in Geyserville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The job description
It’s about making the experience personal. You don’t know what people have gone through to get here, so you figure it out. Maybe they’re not in the best mood and need a little extra attention to elevate the situation. Maybe they want us to stand back or leave them alone. You know when people leave if they’ve had that cathartic experience we would like them to have, because they float out of here. I want their thought on the way to the parking lot to be, “It was worth everything to do that.” But it takes the team to really make sure they have the Cyrus experience.
Industry changes
In the ’60s and ’70s restaurants weren’t all about chefs or cuisine — it was about the maître d’. There was an imperious guy at the front door looking down his nose at you and he was the gatekeeper. Just a reservation didn’t get you the VIP treatment, you had to establish yourself. I’m more of an egalitarian. That couple who comes to Cyrus for their second anniversary made a tremendous commitment, and we make sure they have a fabulous time just like guests who come two times a month.
Guests enjoy the Kitchen Table while chatting with maitre’d/co-owner Nick Peyton at Cyrus in Geyserville. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)Douglas Keane, right, and his business partner Nick Peyton, of Cyrus restaurant in Geyserville. Photo taken on Monday, Nov. 4, 2024. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
On the critics
Back in the day, Michael Bauer at the Chronicle was all-powerful and all your investors and all your staff have a lot riding on this one guy. We would track the names and phone numbers he used for reservations. If we knew he was coming, we would kind of stage a table in the back. He liked to see the whole room. But a Herb Caen story had the biggest impact that I ever witnessed. He mentioned Masa’s and our phones just lit up. We were getting 400 to 500 calls for reservations a day.
A partnership
Doug and I trust each other. We’ve worked together for decades. I’ve worked with a lot of chefs who want to be all-powerful at the expense of the betterment of their restaurant. I know he’s going to produce great food, and he knows I’m here to make things smooth up front. We both have to work without ego.
Spaghetti all Bolognese with American Kobe beef, veal and pork ribs in a slow-cooked meat sauce at Baci Cafe and Wine Bar Thursday, Oct. 16, 2025 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
An influx of Italian settlers in the 19th century brought not only their winemaking skills but also their culinary traditions to Sonoma County. Unsurprisingly, some of our oldest restaurants (a few still in operation under second, third or even fourth generations) have kept family recipes as the backbone of their operations.
Newer takes on Italian cuisine often mix in California touches or focus on specific regions of Italy — from Milan to Sicily. With so much diversity in Italian cuisine alone, we’ve reached out to readers on our Facebook and Instagram to garner locals’ favorites in the county.
Scroll on below to find the best Italian restaurants in Sonoma County, starting with our dining editor’s top picks and followed by local faves. Mangia bene!
Our Dining Editor’s Top Picks
Mortadella Meatballs with pistachio pesto and aged Parmesan from Stella Wednesday, March 26, 2025, in Kenwood. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Stella
While pasta plays a starring role at Stella — which takes a deep dive into lesser-known Italian regional shapes like Roman tonnarelli (spaghetti’s chunkier cousin), Florentine creste di gallo (ruffled rooster’s crest) and rigatoncini (a tiny tube) — its wood-fired grill steals the show. Whole grilled dourade (sea bream fish), lamb ribs, mushrooms and soft Scamorza cheese get the smoky flavor and gentle char unique to live fire cooking.
This restaurant from the owners of Sonoma’s Animo is an homage to Italy. Mostly. While the menu leans heavily on gourmet pizzas and pasta, it also includes dishes like tuna crudo, whole lamb saddle and Asian-inspired pork chop in dashi broth. Pizzas are a highlight, perfectly cooked without the bitter notes of char, and the pastas are equally impressive.
Cacio e pepe with bucatini, seven peppers and pecorino from the Golden Bear Station Thursday, Jan. 11, 2023, on Highway 12 in Kenwood. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Paolo Pedrinazzi makes tagliatelle pasta from scratch at Portico in Sebastopol, Wednesday, April 24, 2024. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Portico
Paolo Pedrinazzi and his wife, Kathleen Escamilla, are the pasta whisperers of Sebastopol. Their homey cafe has all the charm of nonna’s kitchen as Escamilla scurries between tables, dropping plates of cacio e pepe, risotto and fresh pappardelle pasta with saffron cream to customers. And, of course, the 12-layer lasagna. Don’t miss the Bolognese and fresh tiramisu made daily.
Italian chef, Italian ingredients, Italian oven, Italian pizza. The most authentic Neapolitan pizza in Sonoma County goes from dough to done in seconds thanks to a superheated wood-fired oven. The housemade lasagna is unbelievably good. L’Oro Di Napoli opened a second location in Petaluma in February 2025, offering an expanded menu but keeping its legendary lasagna a Santa Rosa-only specialty.
Patate e Porchetta pizza from L’Oro di Napoli Friday, Feb. 28, 2025, at their second location in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)The enormous Lasagna with a Stagionale salad of arugula, roasted butternut squash puree, sliced almonds, topped with pecorino cheese, in an orange mustard and extra-virgin olive oil dressing from L’Oro di Napoli in downtown Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Spaghetti alla Bolognese with American Kobe beef, veal and pork ribs in a slow-cooked meat sauce at Baci Cafe and Wine Bar Thursday, Oct. 16, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Baci Cafe & Wine Bar
Baci Cafe & Wine Bar feels like a throwback, standing stoically among Michelin-starred destinations and trendy newcomers. Here, the music is never too loud, the glasses are hand-polished and there’s never a rush to turn tables. Frank Sinatra croons in the background, as the staff glides from table to table with the smoothness of warm olive oil.
This popular Kenwood restaurant relocated to Santa Rosa and continues to serve some of the best pizza, pasta and sauces around. We love their polenta with creamy porcini mushroom sauce. Dine on the restaurant’s covered and heated back patio, or pick up for an Italian meal at home.
2792 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-523-2690, cafecitti.com
Penne alla Boscaiola at Cafe Citti in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)Ten-layer lasagna at Catelli’s in Geyserville. (Chris Hardy / for Sonoma Magazine)
Catelli’s
Lasagna with paper-thin layers of pasta and a tried-and-true meat sauce is a signature dish worth the trip north. Chef Domenica Catelli is one of Sonoma County’s bright lights, committed to using the best local ingredients. Don’t miss the burger or chicken Parmesan.
You’ll swear you’re in Italy at this temple of charcuterie, wood-fired pizza and classic Italian entrees, including oxtail ragu with pappardelle, braised beef tripe alla Fiorentina and spaghetti with pork cheek ragu. The cheeky hanging laundry lining the walkway to the back patio completes the experience.
House-cured salami and cheese charcuterie board at Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria in Geyserville. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)Ca’Bianca’s rigatoni served with Italian sausage, peas, mushrooms, tomato and cream sauce. (Crista Jeremiason / The Press Democrat)
Ca’Bianca
A Victorian home sets the stage for pan-Italian cuisine (from Milan to Sicily). The food always impresses with its restrained simplicity (no gloopy sauces or overwrought pastas) and graceful presentation. Great for impressing parents, dates or coworkers.
835 Second St., Santa Rosa, 707-542-5800, cabianca.com
Campanella
An unapologetic “red sauce joint” that channels the red-and-white-checkered tablecloth, candles in the Chianti bottle, garlic-scented family trattorias that are the lifeblood of Italian American neighborhoods along the Atlantic Seaboard. The mix of old-world and new-world flavors speaks to the 19th-century migration of Italians (primarily from Southern Italy and Sicily) to New York. Garlic knots, chicken Parmesan pizza, steamed clams with linguini and cheesecake are all standouts.
Steamed Clams with Linguini garlic, white wine and seasoned breadcrumbs from Campanella Friday, Sept. 6, 2024 in Sebastopol. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Housemade ravioli with marinara and pesto from Canevari’s Deli Friday, March 14, 2025, hidden in the Santa Rosa’s JC neighborhood. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Canevari’s Deli
The tiny ravioli factory founded in 1929 still sells freshly made ravioli (the original recipe) but has expanded into a popular Italian deli under current owner Lou Chambrone (formerly of Sweet Lou’s in Cotati). Chambrone has upped Canevari’s game with fat Italian-style subs, his recipes for lasagna, creamy tiramisu, polenta and dozens of other dishes.
Tuscan-born chef/owner Francesco Torre has spent 12 years in Forestville serving food from northern Italy at Canneti Roadhouse Italiana Monday, June 9, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Canneti Roadhouse Italiana
This under-the-radar trattoria serves hearty Tuscan dishes from Italian transplant Francesco Torre, who takes pride in the authenticity of his frequently changing dishes with local ingredients.
Italian classics like spaghetti Puttanesca and veal piccata impress local diners at this neighborhood favorite. Creamy gnocchi Riviera never disappoints.
“Riviera is my favorite. Authentic, diverse and delicious menu,” said Jed Spencer on Facebook. “The lamb ravioli is outstanding. Fresh bread and olive tapenade is a real treat, even when you order to-go! It’s a family-run restaurant, so you know you’re getting great service. Everyone is very friendly and after chatting with the owner I felt like I had a better knowledge of Italy and its food. If you’re making a list, they MUST be on it!”
Wanda Lou takes an order from Pilar Marin and Andrew Reece on the opening night at Volpi’s Ristorante & Bar in Petaluma after a year’s hiatus since the start of the pandemic on Thursday, May 6, 2021. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Volpi’s Ristorante & Bar
Volpi’s in Petaluma dates back nearly 100 years, existing as a grocer and speakeasy before becoming a restaurant in 1992. Find Italian-American classics like spaghetti and meatballs, eggplant parmigiana and veal Marsala.
“Love the old speakeasy and great family style food,” said Amanda Bolla of Volpi’s on Facebook.
This family-friendly cafe serves less frequently seen dishes, including roasted zucchini flowers and fava beans, along with two types of ravioli, cannelloni and spaghetti. It is one of the few places to get Nonna Zeppole (beignet-style doughnuts). The wine list includes some of the owners’ Italian-style D’Argenzio wines.
“Cibos, owner treats you amazingly and might even pour you a little complimentary glass of his favorite wine, which he bottles from his barrelhouse,” said Adam Turréy on Facebook.
1305 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-623-9906, ciborustico.com
Cannoli at LoCoco’s Cucina Rustica in Santa Rosa, on Sept. 24, 2013. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
LoCoco’s Cucina Rustica
This cozy Italian trattoria is always packed with fans of their traditional pasta dishes (pappardelle with wild boar sausage, linguine with clams), shrimp scampi and veal saltimbocca. Homemade cannoli is a must-try.
117 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-523-2227, lococos.net
Dinucci’s Restaurant
This checkered-tablecloth, family-style Italian has been around for generations. Dinners include antipasti, sourdough bread, minestrone and salads. Choose from dishes like classic spaghetti, fettuccine, chicken Parmigiana and cannelloni crepes. It’s a good deal for a whole lot of food.
“@dinuccis for sure!! Everything is delicious. Especially the homemade minestrone 😋” said @alexis_starkey_ on Instagram.
This strip mall Italian spot impresses with dishes like crab ravioli, calamari dore, house gnocchi and a divine torta di cioccolata (chocolate cake) — plus an attentive waitstaff.
“Caffe Giostra in Petaluma because the food is consistently delicious and the owners and staff are so welcoming,” said David Hartranft about Caffe Giostra on Facebook.
1390 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-664-9441
Housemade gnocchi with a wild boar ragu at Risibisi Restaurant in Petaluma on Monday, July 30, 2012. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Risibisi
Housemade gnocchi with braised wild boar is a specialty at this Petaluma restaurant. Risotto is also a favorite.
“Risibisi Restaurant in Petaluma,” Keller Estate nominated on Facebook. “Great food and service.”
This locals’ favorite has a brief but focused menu with weekly specials from Sicilian-born chef Gaetano Patrinostro.
“[Mamma] Taninos in Sonoma. The best! A close second is Della’s just off the Plaza,” said Leslie Leutbecher on Facebook.
500 W. Napa St., Suite 512, Sonoma, 707-933-8826, mammataninos.com
Apple Fritters with two whole apple rings hand-dipped in sweet housemade batter and deep fried to a golden brown then dusted with powdered sugar from Negri’s Italian Dinners and Joe’s Bar in Occidental. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Negri’s Italian Dinners & Joe’s Bar
Family-run since 1943, this old-school Italian eatery is known for its homemade ravioli. The updated Joe’s Bar and Lounge features all the traditional Negri’s favorites Friday through Sunday, including their famous fried chicken, burgers, pizza and modern takes on classic cocktails.
“Gotta go with Negri’s Italian Dinners & Joe’s Bar in Occidental,” said Donna Jean Say on Facebook. “Authentic Italian food and great hometown people. Can’t get those raviolis anywhere else and the desserts, homemade by the Negri ladies, are to die for.”
Another local’s favorite and one of only a few restaurants in this charming north county town. You’ll find a long lineup of pasta, parmigiana, seafood, veal dishes and housemade tiramisu.
“Family-run, amazing steak specials, calamari dori, real Italian veal, fresh tiramisu made daily, good value prices,” said Tina Castelli of Piacére on Facebook.
The famous Spaghetti Half & Half with marinara and pesto and a half order House Salad from Art’s Place in Rohnert Park on Friday, Dec. 4, 2020. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Art’s Place
Founded by the late Art Ibleto, Sonoma County’s “Pasta King,” Art’s Place remains family-owned and has affordable Italian classics. The chicken Marsala, fettuccine Alfredo and shrimp scampi get top reviews.
“Never had a bad meal,” said Cheryl Cook about Art’s Place on Facebook. “Friendly staff, good bar.”
The bruschetta trio at Sugo Trattoria in Petaluma. (Courtesy Sugo Trattoria)
Sugo Trattoria
This intimate Italian spot in Petaluma’s theater district offers an impressive lineup of bruschetta along with fan favorites like butternut squash risotto, pistachio-crusted salmon and a creamy pesto verdura.
5 Petaluma Blvd. S., Suite B, Petaluma, 707-782-9298, sugotrattoria.com
Cucina Paradiso
Every pasta is a winner at this classy longtime Petaluma restaurant, but our favorite is the housemade ravioli, filled with roasted duck in sun-dried tomato, pine nut and basil sauce.
Tucked away in east Petaluma’s Washington Square shopping center, Alfredo’s offers traditional Italian dishes at reasonable prices for lunch and dinner. Spaghetti Bolognese and housemade mushroom ravioli are standout dinner entrees. Get the tiramisu or chocolate gelato for dessert.
The lunch special includes penne with chicken and an arugula salad and a scoop of gelato from Alfredo’s Italian Restaurant in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Tony’s of North Beach
Graton Casino trattoria fronted by world-famous pizzaiolo Tony Gemignani offers five styles of pizza: woodfired Neapolitan and California-style; brick-oven Italian and American standards, as well as thick-crust Sicilian; and stone-oven New York and New Haven-style pizzas.
This charming, chef-run restaurant offers modern takes on classic Italian dishes. Gnudi alla vodka, risotto and cacio e pepe are favorite dishes. Open for lunch, dinner and cocktails.
Spring Harvest Gnudi with housemade ricotta dumplings, zucchini, crooked necked squash, cherry tomatoes, spinach and basil from Grata Italian Eatery chef/owner Eric Foster Thursday, May 8, 2025, in Windsor. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Finocchiona pizza with fennel salami, Greek olives, feta, green onion and garlic confit from Pizzando on the square in Healdsburg, Friday, June 2, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Pizzando
This little pizzeria in downtown Healdsburg specializes in Napolitana and Romana-style pizzas, and also offers seasonal bites, paninis, housemade pastas and organic soft-serve ice cream.
Francis Ford Coppola’s winery-based Italian restaurant features the film director’s favorite dishes in an airy, open dining room and offers sweeping views from the patio.
Amanda McKenna launched her wine label, Yarrow Wines, at the start of the 2025 harvest season. (Beth Schlanker / for Sonoma Magazine)
Every harvest poses the eternal question: “When should we pick?”
It’s often a contentious debate between winemakers and vineyard managers. But this season, there are equally pressing questions. Growers, awash in a sea of grapes, are facing a huge glut in the market. They’re eager to find out, “Will I be able to sell my fruit this year?”
And for those just starting a winery during an epic downward slump in the industry, it’s a huge leap of faith: “Will anyone drink my wine?”
“You have to be a little crazy to do this,” says Amanda McKenna, who is launching Yarrow Wines this harvest, releasing her 2023 Albariño and 2024 vintages of Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling just as she’s about to harvest the 2025 vintage. “But things will always be scary. Things will always be intimidating. And there’s always going to be something that is telling you not to do it, whether it’s people drinking less or all the articles about how alcohol causes illnesses. But there’s always going to be that, so why not just go for it?”
Amanda McKenna launched her wine label, Yarrow Wines, at the start of the 2025 harvest season. (Beth Schlanker / for Sonoma Magazine)
Signs of distress in the wine industry are everywhere. Nationwide wine sales dropped approximately 6% from 2023 to 2024, continuing a downward spiral since the surprise Covid-19 sales boom, according to industry data group SipSource.
Not surprisingly, the number of West Coast wineries dropped 4.3% last year, according to Wine Business Analytics. Carlisle Winery in Windsor closed last year, and Sbragia Family Vineyards in Geyserville shuttered its tasting room, along with other wineries around the Bay Area. Healdsburg’s Arista Winery sold its winery and estate vineyard but is holding onto the brand and continuing to make wine.
Starting a winery from the ground up can be daunting any time, but launching a new brand during this economic climate can feel almost masochistic.
“In the beginning, I was questioning my own sanity,” said Madelyn Hille, who started Schema Wines in 2023 with 150 cases of Cabernet Franc and 75 cases of Aligoté.
Madelyn Hille admires her handiwork while labeling bottles of her Schema Wines 2023 Cabernet Franc. (Beth Schlanker / for Sonoma Magazine)
But at some point, a lifelong passion to make wine transcended logic, and she just went for it. “It’s been my plan for such a long time that I’ve kind of had to be like, ‘The hell with it,’ when it comes to the state of the industry, because I just need to follow my own plan and stick to my goals,” says Hille.
Raised on a strawberry farm in rural Ohio, she worked her way through restaurants and wine sales jobs, making her way out west, scoring gigs at Pax, Inman, and Merry Edwards wineries, while currently in the thick of her fourth harvest at Arnot-Roberts. Making her wine at Brooks Note Winery in Petaluma, Hille sources Cab Franc grapes from Alexander Valley and Aligoté grapes from San Benito County.
Tapping into connections she made while working as a wine buyer at Vinifera, Hille recently landed her Cab Franc on the wine list at Enclos, the buzzy new Michelin-starred restaurant in Sonoma. But for now, she’s not quitting her day job, which is actually a night job, bartending at Sweetwater Saloon in Mill Valley.
Tyler Hayes and Ross Reedy of Right Turn Wine Co. share a laugh in the cellar. (Beth Schlanker / for Sonoma Magazine)
The key for most new-wave, rookie winery owners is to start small and stay small for the time being. When entrepreneur Tyler Hayes teamed up with Truett-Hurst winemaker Ross Reedy to launch Right Turn Wine Co. in 2022, they started with 300 cases of Pinot Noir and Syrah. Going forward, as they build almost entirely direct-to-consumer sales, they’re keeping production right around 150 cases per varietal, branching out with a carbonic Zinfandel blend and Sauvignon Blanc.
“We’re both definitely driven a little bit more by passion,” says Hayes, who loves a good side hustle, including a cheesesteak pop-up he runs with his wife called Golden Steak Warriors. “But we’re not necessarily rushing into things unprepared. We’re definitely kind of stepping lightly, and not trying to buy a bunch of new flashy equipment or take on a loan. I think before this downturn, you saw a lot of folks lining up those deals.”
Hayes sees this latest industry dip as a thinning of the herd in a market that’s oversaturated with wineries. Setting yourself apart is the key, he says. “It’s about the casual nature and the willingness to engage. There’s this accessibility that certain brands don’t have, right?”
Local wine entrepreneurs take a hands-on approach to all aspects of winemaking — from corking and labeling bottles to printing their personal phone numbers on the label. (Beth Schlanker / for Sonoma Magazine)
That’s why he lists his phone number on the back of every bottle, and why he gets late night photos of empty bottles lining restaurant tables and the occasional tipsy voicemail. “I want somebody to text me and tell me they had a great time, or whatever they thought about the wine. It’s all about connecting with folks and telling a story. Everyone has been talking about telling a story with wine since the beginning.”
For her first vintage of Pinot Noir in 2021, Caren Hatton also started “super-small” with 120 cases of Nestweaver, a boutique brand she named after her grandmother. Hatton, who also owns Arietta Winery in Napa, had dreamed of making a Burgundian-style coastal Pinot for nearly 20 years. After discovering the 7.6-acre Corpuel Family Vineyard outside Sebastopol, she jumped at the chance. At the time, in a market still flush with Covid sales, it didn’t feel like a huge risk. In 2023, Hatton doubled production to 240 cases. But this harvest, as she cuts production at Arietta almost in half, going from 3200 cases to under 2000, she doesn’t plan on scaling up Nestweaver.
“I’m taking it very slowly, and I’m not getting upset about 2022 not moving quite so quickly, Hatton says. “But again, it’s a very small production, and I’m not getting ahead of myself in terms of wanting to get it out into the market for the wrong reasons.”
At this point, DIY is the mantra for most new winery upstarts. That’s how Isaac and Emily Jenkins are making a go of it at Happy Quail Wines in Sonoma.
For Isaac Jenkins, of Happy Quail Wines, starting a new winemaking venture means being willing to juggle many roles in order to make it work and knowing that even then, it may not be enough to be successful. (Beth Schlanker / for Sonoma Magazine)
“To make money in this industry, you need to be making the wine yourself, and not paying someone else to make it,” says Isaac Jenkins, who makes his wine at Magnolia custom crush facility. “And you’re gonna be growing the grapes, and you got to be willing to do your sales. And you’re still going to struggle.”
Carrying on his family’s 137-year tradition of making wine and growing grapes, Jenkins tends over 100 acres for more than a dozen clients as part of the family business Madrone Vineyard Management. He also leases 8 acres to make his wine, first launching a white wine made from red grapes, the 2023 Aleatico Bianca and a skin-contact 2023 Pinot Gris, followed by Moon Mountain Zinfandel, a red blend, and Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
For Isaac Jenkins, of Happy Quail Wines, starting a new winemaking venture means being willing to juggle many roles in order to make it work and knowing that even then, it may not be enough to be successful. (Beth Schlanker / for Sonoma Magazine)
To make their wines more accessible, the Jenkinses are opening a Happy Quail tasting room at the historic Indian Springs Ranch in Kenwood, formerly owned by pioneering winemaker George MacLeod. Carving out their own niche for the future, Isaac Jenkins is experimenting with distilling brandy, harkening back to his great-grandfather who was a bootlegger. “My dad drinks brandy and my grandfather drinks brandy,” he says. “During these tough times, I didn’t want to miss a chance to make it before, you know, if we’re potentially out of the industry.”
At Yarrow, McKenna wears so many hats it’s hard to keep up—she’s winemaker, operations manager, vineyard scout, truck driver, web developer, accountant, salesperson, and social media manager. “It’s terrifying and exciting all at the same time,” she says. But she draws the line at artist and graphic designer, hiring someone she found on Instagram to create labels.
Amanda McKenna launched her wine label, Yarrow Wines, at the start of the 2025 harvest season. (Beth Schlanker / for Sonoma Magazine)
“It’s kind of like bootstrapping it, you know, and leaning on your community to help you and support you in any way possible. There’s that old adage that people say: ‘How do you make a fortune in wine? You start with a small fortune.’ I don’t think myself, or any of my peers that are starting wineries right now, have that small fortune. We’re all just trying to make it work in any way we can. It’s really just leaning on those around us to help.”
McKenna has only invested a little over $10,000 in the new winery, partly by keeping it on a micro-boutique level, launching with only 250 cases of wine. But mostly thanks to the support from Ryan and Megan Glaab, owners of Ryme Cellars, where McKenna works both in the cellar and on the hospitality and marketing side. In the tradition of paying it forward, the Glaabs allow her to make her wines at their rustic Forestville winery. It’s how Ryan got his start. While paying his dues for 10 years as assistant winemaker at Pax Winery, owner Pax Mahle gave him the space to experiment with his own wines.
In fact, Ryme started under similar economic constraints in 2007, eventually launching in 2009 “during the peak of the real estate financial crisis,” McKenna says.
Looking back over the centuries, the wine industry has weathered many economic challenges, from Prohibition to phylloxera and the Great Recession. “If you think about it, wine has been around for thousands of years and it’s not going anywhere,” McKenna says. “I think there’s just a shift, and there’s always going to be a shift. And I think there’s always room for something new in any industry. So, while it’s scary, it’s not that scary, because we’re not going anywhere.”
Seafood ramen with a medley of scallops, shrimp and squid in a shiso ponzu broth from Taste of Tea in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Californians may not spend their winters shoveling snow or digging out the puffer coat, but a cold, soggy day still demands comfort: steaming soups, crackling fireplaces, slow-braised everything, and cushy banquettes built for lingering over hot tea.
These Sonoma County restaurants know exactly how to take the chill off — and warm you up from the inside out.
Healdsburg
Taste of Tea
Japanese comfort food — think curry ramen, miso soup and ginger rice pudding — plus an endless array of imported teas make this the ultimate cozy retreat. 109 North St., Healdsburg, 707-431-1995, thetasteoftea.com
Classic bento box with chirashi, grilled unagi, two Japanese salads and a garden salad from Taste of Tea in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Risotto Frutti di Mare with Gulf shrimp, Day Boat scallops, calamari, roasted tomatoes, white wine, saffron seafood fumet & parmesan at Baci Cafe and Wine Bar Thursday, Oct. 16, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Baci Cafe & Wine Bar
Amid Healdsburg’s Michelin hot spots and shiny newcomers, Baci is a timeless refuge. The music plays softly, the glassware gleams and the genteel staff move through the room with the fluidity of warm olive oil. 36 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-8111, bacicafeandwinebar.com
Healdsburg Bubble Bar
A bubbly little clubhouse just big enough for you and a few friends. Sip Champagne and sparklers in this pint-size Parisian bistro wrapped in dark walls, velvet banquettes and soft lighting. Little nibbles are available to pair with your pours. 134 North St., Healdsburg, 707-395-4434, healdsburgbubblebar.com
The Bubble Bar tasting room in Healdsburg focuses on Champagnes, sparklers, Cavas, Proseccos and all things bubbles. Photo taken Monday, Feb. 5, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Pork Chop Tonkatsu-style with sweet onion dash broth from the Golden Bear Station Thursday, Jan. 11, 2023, on Highway 12 in Kenwood. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Sonoma Valley
Golden Bear Station
With candlelit tables, faux-fur throws and hospitality warmer than a pan of brown butter, this Kenwood roadside restaurant oozes coziness. The menu shifts with chef Joshua Smookler’s latest fascinations, but expect luxurious cuts of duck, beef and pork tinged with Italian and Korean flavors. 8445 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, goldenbearstation.com
Songbird Parlour
Soft lighting, broody paneled walls in pine needle green, velvet sofas arranged in a conversational setting and an upright piano set the scene inside this upscale dining retreat in Glen Ellen. Warming dishes, such as braised lamb shank, duck breast with lentils, and pork belly, are best bets. 14301 Arnold Drive, Suite 3, Glen Ellen, 707-343-1308, songbirdparlour.com
Duck confit, Journeyman guanciale, beluga lentil cassoulet, d’Anjou pear mostarda from Songbird Parlour Thursday, Nov. 21, 2024, in Glen Ellen. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)A lounge space in the corner of the dining room at Songbird Parlour in Glen Ellen Thursday, Nov. 21, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Brick chicken with parsley and lemon from the Glen Ellen Star restaurant. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Glen Ellen Star
Claim a seat by the wood-fired oven, the source of blistered pizzas, whole branzino, brick chicken and ember-roasted vegetables. 13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-343-1384, glenellenstar.com
Sebastopol
Ramen Gaijin
There’s nothing cozier than leaning over a steaming bowl of ramen, infusing the brothy goodness into your very soul. Add grilled skewers and tasty cocktails. 6948 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 707,827-3609, ramengaijin.com
Spicy Tan Tan Ramen with Sapporo noodles, sesame, scallion, pork belly chashu, spicy ground pork, charred cabbage and a 6-minute egg from Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Dungeness Crab Cake with orange segments, avocado, mixed lettuces and remoulade sauce from Terrapin Creek Cafe Friday, May 30, 2025, in Bodega Bay. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Sonoma Coast
Terrapin Creek
Butter-yellow and ocher walls radiate warmth year round, but in colder months, the massive hearth draws visitors near. There’s no fish and chips, but the seafood is always a catch. 1580 Eastshore Road, Bodega Bay, 707-875-2700, terrapincreekcafe.com
Graton & West County
Underwood Bistro
Enjoy a mix of French and Thai dishes at this rural, Parisian-style bistro, a favorite among winemakers and locals. Long banquettes, bentwood chairs, a nickel-topped bar and soft yellow lighting give it an all-day sunset glow. 9113 Graton Road, Graton, 707-823-7023, underwoodgraton.com
Pad Thai from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Sous chef Mason Meier mans the wood-burning pizza oven at Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria Friday, March 14, 2025, in Geyserville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Diavola Pizzeria
A glowing wood-fired oven is the beating heart of this pizza and pasta spot. When you’re here, you’re family. Don’t miss the more casual Geyserville Gun Club next door. 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com
Catelli’s
Family photos of the Catelli family fill this warm, historic restaurant space. Wood flooring, exposed brick and comfy seating — along with their delicate 10-layer lasagna and hearty chicken Parmesan — make it perfect for friends and family gatherings. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-3471, mycatellis.com
Ten-layer lasagna at Catelli’s in Geyserville. (Chris Hardy / for Sonoma Magazine)Martini at Stark’s Steak and Seafood in Santa Rosa. (Stark’s Steak and Seafood)Bacon wrapped 10-ounce filet mignon with whole grain mustard bearnaise at Stark’s Steak & Seafood in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Santa Rosa
Stark’s Steak & Seafood, Santa Rosa
This classic steakhouse does cozy in retro style — with a fireplace in the dining room! You’ll get the Bogie-and-Bacall vibe right away. Manhattans, aged whiskies and absinthe are served by white-coated bar staff. The seats are leather and a baby grand sits in the corner waiting to tinkle out a tune or two. 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-5100, starkssteakhouse.com
Goose and Fern
The friendly Brit-pub vibe makes this family-run spot a favorite, whether you’re grabbing a pint or a Guinness pie. Hang out for the Sunday pub quiz night at 7:30 p.m. or pop by for hot oxtail soup and a pudding (if you’re lucky, they’ll have sticky toffee). 116 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-843-4235, thegooseandfern.com
Fish and chips at The Goose & Fern in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square. March 22, 2025. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)Kohlrabi & Scallop Chowder with fried potatoes, chorizo marmalade and chives from Street Social in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Petaluma
Street Social
From the street, the narrow tiled alley leading to this tiny restaurant is easy to miss — part of its charm, and part of the discovery. Inside, the dimly lit, five-table dining room (with a few more seats in the alley and one upstairs) is intentionally intimate, allowing owners Jevon Martin and Marjorie Pier to create a magical experience for each guest. 29F Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-774-6185, streetsocial.social
Pearl
Inspired by the flavors of the Eastern Mediterranean and North Africa (with a little Southern French and Spanish thrown in for good measure), chef/owners Brian Leitner and Annette Yang continue to impress with their sunny interpretations of shakshuka, fresh pita, fattoush salad and braised meats, including brisket and lamb. 500 First St., Petaluma, 707-559-5187, pearlpetaluma.com
Shakshuka with chickpea, fava and tomato stew at Pearl restaurant in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)A selection of pastries and baked goods from Water Street Bistro Thursday, Aug. 29, 2025 in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Water Street Bistro
This hidden gem, tucked away on the waterfront, is a favorite among in-the-know locals who stop by for freshly made French pastries, duck confit, quiche and the restaurant’s eclectic Parisian style.100 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-763-9563, waterstreetbistropetaluma.com
