How to BottleRock Like a Pro: Tips and Tricks from a Napa Local

As a Napa local, I’ve been attending the BottleRock music festival since its inception in 2013, which featured The Black Keys, Kings of Leon, and the Zac Brown Band as headliners. I’ve only missed one year—in 2017, I was on my honeymoon—and have mastered how to make the most of the festival weekend even as BottleRock continues to grow in popularity and size.

From where you can find free nearby parking to why you should always pack extra toilet paper, here are some of my top tips and tricks for BottleRocking like a local.  

Pack like a Pro

It’s important to note that BottleRock has a new bag policy this year, which bans backpacks. As for what you should put in your bag: a hat and sunscreen (lotion, not spray; aerosol cans are banned) will keep you protected from the sun—there is very limited shade in General Admission—and a jacket will keep you warm at night. I can’t stress this enough: the temperature will drop significantly when the sun goes down.

Toilet paper and hand sanitizer always come in handy when the porta potties inevitably run out of TP and soap. I also like to bring a portable charger to power up my phone, which always ends up dying before the headlining act from all of the photos and videos I take.

An empty stainless steel water bottle is an absolute must. It’s good for the environment and your wallet, for BottleRock has free refilling stations throughout the festival so you can keep hydrated. But the water bottle can have a dual purpose. My trick: I purchase two alcohol beverages at once, drink one, and pour the other in my water bottle to keep it cold. This saves you from having to weave through thick crowds and wait in line every time you’re ready for a drink. For this, I recommend a bottle that keeps beverages cold.

Getting There

There are many transportation options available for getting to and from the festival. BottleRock is selling tickets to chartered buses going to and from San Francisco, Sacramento, Oakland, San Jose, Fairfield, Sonoma, Mill Valley, Palo Alto, and Santa Rosa. Uber and Lyft are always great options, especially if you’ll be drinking, but expect them to have surging prices due to high volume, which also means you could end up waiting a while to get one.

If you’re staying in or near Napa and are close enough to bike, there is free bicycle parking (don’t forget a lock), but Napa Valley’s local Vine bus is one of the most underrated ways to get to the festival. It’s extremely clean, efficient, and most importantly, free, plus they have extended the hours on their routes for concert goers.

Driving should be a last-resort option, but if you do take your own vehicle, don’t worry about shelling out the big bucks for a parking pass. It’s totally possible to find non-metered street parking on the outskirts of downtown Napa, especially earlier in the day. I like to search in the area around the St. John the Baptist Church on Caymus St. From there, it’s roughly a 15-minute walk to the gates.

Getting In

At last year’s festival, it took me at least 30-45 minutes each day to get through the gates. The earlier you arrive, the shorter the lines will be, but unless you snagged a VIP or Platinum wristband, I suggest arriving an hour ahead of showtime for the first artist you want to see to ensure you don’t miss them.

There are two entrances. The main one is a bit of a free-for-all, but the side entrance on Brunel St. tends to be quicker, more civilized, and less claustrophobic (it’s a single file line, whereas everyone really just clumps together at the front entrance).

I’m hopeful that the BottleRock team has found a way to speed up the entrance process this year, but at the very least, they are offering a fast track option for anyone enrolled in TSA Pre ✓® . Find the TSA Pre ✓® RV parked on the corner of Bailey and 3rd, show your known traveler number, and they’ll give you a Fast Pass wristband to use at the main gate. You can also sign up for TSA Pre ✓® there; just bring your passport or proof of U.S. Citizenship and $85.

Keep Your Friends Close

There are tens of thousands of people at BottleRock, so it’s very easy to lose track of your friends as you separate to use the restroom, find food and drink, etc. When you return to the stage to find them, it can be nearly impossible as the crowds fill in. Moreover, cell phone service can be quite finicky.

Creating a totem is a great tool for keeping your group together. This consists simply of a stick and something your friends can identify tied to the top, perhaps a stuffed teddy bear or a cowboy boot. Bonus points if it lights up at night. Take turns holding the totem up throughout the festival and your friends will have a much easier time reuniting with you.

Top Picks for Food & Drink

The number one thing that separates BottleRock from every other music festival is its world-class wine and food offerings. It’s a great opportunity to experience some of the top wineries and restaurants in Napa Valley—at a fraction of the price of a full meal or bottle—so I recommend keeping it hyper-local.  

As someone who visits these wineries and restaurants regularly, I’m providing my top BottleRock food and drink picks: for wine, get your bubbly from Schramsberg, rosé from Blackbird Vineyards, and sauvignon blanc from St. Supery. Personally, I don’t think red wine pairs great with warm festival days.

The Citrus Mistress from Hop Valley, an Oregon brewery, is my favorite festival refresher (find it at the Beer Bend), but if you want to keep it local, try the Hatchet from Trade Brewing, which has a taproom just a few blocks from BottleRock. As for cocktails, the Sun God from Hendrick’s Gin (with Lillet Blanc, fresh cucumber, lemon, and soda) is the definition of a porch pounder.

This year I will be going straight for a bucket of fried chicken from Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc (if you haven’t had his fried chicken before, you haven’t lived). As an alternative option, the fried chicken sliders from Brix are a longtime BottleRock favorite. The Menchi Katsu Burger from Morimoto has become a BottleRock standby, but the wait in line is worth it. Like Ad Hoc, Boon Fly is also new to the roster this year and they’re bringing their famous donuts, a perfect treat if you want something sweet. For a snack that’s both light and refreshing, head to FARM for a cup of spicy watermelon.

Beyond the Music: 6 Things You Can’t Miss at BottleRock 2019

You come to BottleRock for the music—this year’s festival features headlining acts Imagine Dragons, Neil Young, and Mumford & Sons—but there’s so much more to see and do over the course of three days than “just” rock out. From pre-festival parties to dancing in a porta potty—yes, you read that right—here are six things you can’t miss at BottleRock this year.

The Hottest Wine Tasting Experiences in Sonoma and Napa Wine Country

The tasting room is dead. Long live the tasting room. These wineries are exploring new ways to attract customers, moving beyond the traditional tasting room setting to create dynamic and compelling experiences that draw visitors not just for their wines, but for the story behind them, too. Click through the gallery for details.

Sonoma’s Layla at MacArthur Place is Stunning with a Star in the Kitchen

Krispy kale and Pea Hummus at Layla at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. Courtesy photo

For nearly six weeks, the staff of Sonoma’s new Layla restaurant at MacArthur Place were trained in the town’s community center. The longtime hotel and spa were undergoing a massive renovation, and the dining room wasn’t quite ready. So, the staff practiced service where they could, over and over. The time was well spent.

From being flagged at the gate for free valet parking to magical cocktails, polished servers, brilliant food and a cheerily modern interior, the experience is as polished as a new penny.

Interior at Layla at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. Courtesy photo
Interior at Layla at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. Courtesy photo

Ready for a new act, Sonoma’s MacArthur Place has become almost unrecognizable after an overhaul by Arizona-based real estate investment company IMH Financial Corp. The new anchor restaurant, Layla, is perhaps the most impressive of all the changes.

Gone is the cowboy-themed steakhouse, Saddles, now replaced by three upgraded dining options: The Porch (a sort of grab-and-go cafe); a spacious lounge called The Bar at MacArthur Place; and Layla, serving an upscale Mediterranean and New American menu. The property also has a new reception area and updated rooms.

Patatas Bravas at Layla at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. Courtesy photo
Patatas Bravas at Layla at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. Courtesy photo

Beyond just a physical transformation, they’ve brought in some serious culinary star power with Executive Chef Cole Dickinson, who has cooked at Acacia House in Napa, Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg and Hemisphere at the Greenbrier and The Bazaar by Jose Andres in Beverly Hills.

It’s best to take in the whole thing slowly, so make the first stop at the Bar at MacArthur Place. It’s a clubby lounge as comfortable with scotch on the rocks as trendy herb-infused cocktails. If you’re of the latter persuasion (or even if you’re not), start with the blandly named Forager ($14). It’s anything but, with a tableside pour of butterfly pea flower tea into a glass filled with Griffo gin, Italicus Rosolio aperitif, cucumber, basil, lime and fresh herbs. Then prepare to be amazed.

Forager Cocktail at Layla at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. Courtesy photo
Forager Cocktail at Layla at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. Heather Irwin/PD

Soaked in water, dried pea flower has an uncanny ability to turn liquid a deep indigo blue — but that’s just the first act. A bit of alchemy involving acid in the citrus creates a bewitching blue-purple-magenta-pink ombre effect that’s like catching a glimpse of a unicorn. There are also you-won’t-miss-what’s-missing spirit-free cocktails and impressive wines by the glass, beer and cider. If you’re a spirit connoisseur, they’ve got an extensive list to choose from.

The adjoining Layla restaurant stands in bright contrast, with windows and skylights filtering onto white and gray wicker furniture.

The new menu is surprisingly short but intensely focused. Shared plates are each more impressive than the last, nothing carelessly tossed on the plate or thoughtlessly delivered to the table. Sometimes a tremendous experience like Layla reminds you how stunningly average it is for restaurants to be stunningly average.

Best Bets

Parker House Rolls aren’t just yeasty little pillows of bread at Layla, but arrive shimmering with coarse salt and a petite bowl of chicken drippin’ and sherry vinegar ($7). It’s a nod to every cook who stuffs a piece of bread into the roasting pan to soak up the lush schmaltz when no one is looking.

A trio of mezze includes baba ganoush made with zucchini instead of eggplant, giving it a sweeter, less bitter flavor, topped with pickled white raisins, dots of black garlic paste and walnuts ($9). Hummus is made with sweet English peas, again, switching up the flavor profile while keeping true to the intent ($9). Served with warm za’atar spiced pita, the tzatziki is fairly straightforward, a creamy-tart ode to dill, cucumber and yogurt. ($9).

Trio of mezze at Layla at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. Courtesy photo
Trio of mezze at Layla at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. Heather Irwin/PD

Patatas Bravas ($13) are one of the kitchen’s best dishes. Shredded potatoes are cooked, cubed and refried, making them perfectly crisp on every available surface. A hefty blob of whipped garlic aioli — the real stuff, not mayonnaise — jiggles on top, while smoky tomato jam offers a sweet foundation.

Octopus is so often a disappointment, but this version gets it right. Tentacles are first cooked sous vide, then crisped giving them a tender interior and toothsome (but not rubbery) outside. They actually taste like the sea, not a rubber band covered in sauce. Served with a lemon-parsley vinaigrette and potato confit ($21).

Avert your urge to sigh and bypass the beet salad. Inspired by the Turkish dish “pancar salatsi,” beets are diced with whipped creme fraiche and mint, served with thinly sliced cross-sections of fried potatoes ($14).

Parker House Rolls at Layla at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. Courtesy photo
Parker House Rolls at Layla at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. Heather Irwin/PD

Nodding to the former steakhouse, a 14-oz New York strip ($56) served rare with port au jus, is grilled over an open flame, giving it a lightly charred exterior and jeweled pink interior. It’s an impressive chunk of meat, but the most amazing act of the dinner menu is the Israeli Couscous ($33).

Served in a modest yellow bowl, it’s almost disappointing how small the portion is. One bite, however, and the universe reveals itself in a flood of melted butter, creamy Maine lobster, shellfish jus, tender couscous and a hint of lemon. Angels descend. Mikes drop. Curtain closes.

Layla at MacArthur Place: Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 29 E. MacArthur St., Sonoma, 800-722-1866, macarthurplace.com.

Sonoma Sourdough Sandwiches a Hidden Gem in Rohnert Park

The Reuben Sandwich at Sonoma Sourdough Sandwiches. Heather Irwin/PD
The Reuben Sandwich at Sonoma Sourdough Sandwiches. (Photo by Heather Irwin)

The quality of a deli is a sort of math equation: The number of construction trucks in the parking divided by the number of minutes it takes to get your sandwich multiplied by the sum of the number of flavors of potato chips. Extra points for homemade cookies at the counter, more than an inch of meat or a solid Reuben.

Sonoma Sourdough Sandwiches on State Farm Drive in Rohnert Park ranks a solid 15 on the deli scale, and that’s before even weighing in the fact that their sandwiches come on a hearty, toasted sourdough sub roll. They have a solid Reuben, natch, along with more than a dozen sandwiches on the menu ranging from a meaty combination of cold cuts to spicy chicken or vegetarian.

Special orders gladly accepted. Service is coldly efficient but makes for a lightning fast in and out. The digs are minimal, but most folks order to go. It’s hidden away in an industrial area so you won’t get many slowpokes holding up the line with annoying questions about gluten-free bread or vegan mayo. In, out, eat.

5440 State Farm Drive, Rohnert Park. Locations also at 7285 Snyder Lane, Rohnert Park and 1320 Industrial Ave., Petaluma.

Secret Pop Ups at Bowman Cellars in Graton

Asparagus soup at Bowman Cellars pop up dinners in Graton. Heather Irwin/PD

Bowman Cellars’ pop-up dinners are one of Wine Country’s best-kept secrets.

In fact, it’s among those rare unspoiled frivolities that I really wish I could keep to myself. Each month, Alex and Katie Bowman invite cool-kid chefs to run a one-night restaurant from their Graton winery.

No, you don’t have to sit with a bunch of people you don’t know and attempt small talk. Just grab a table (preferably outside) and order from the menu. Obviously, they’ll be pouring their own wines, but that’s a plus because they’re tres food-friendly.

Napa Chef Samuel Kaminsky of Privi Napa catering is a young gun we’re especially fond of. At his last dinner, pastrami-cured egg yolks atop lamb tartare stole the show. For the less meaty, Chef Matteo Silverman of Chalk Hill Cookery creates excellent plant-based dinners, along with various surprise guests like Goat Catering from Goatlandia (don’t worry, they rescue goats not eat them). 

The dinners usually sell out, so make reservations online to secure a spot. You can also visit the winery for snacks and wine on the patio just about any time. 9010 Graton Rd., Graton, 707-827-3391.

The Story Behind Sophie James’ Exclusive Wine Brand and Club

The drive up to Sophie and James Gray’s 2,300-foot-elevation vineyard property is a surreal trip through the best and worst of what Wine Country has to offer.

From the east side of Petaluma, hang a right onto Sonoma Mountain Road— voted the worst of Sonoma County’s pothole-ridden drives in a 2015 Press Democrat online poll— and keep going. Up, up, up along the narrow two-way road: sheer drops with jaw-dropping 180-degree vistas, over cattle grates and under low-hanging branches of 100-year-old oaks.

The top of Sonoma Mountain is not a place a lot of people get to visit. Many of the properties have been owned by the same families for generations, and gate after gate separates them from the crumbling road below, popular with cyclists and those seeking a view that stretches across Petaluma west to the coast. But through the Grays’ burgeoning wine label, Sophie James, the husband-and-wife pair have opened up the experience to their wine club members— and more broadly, to their social media followers through the brand’s increasingly popular Instagram account.

Both Sophie and James Gray attended the same high school in Marin County, graduating in 2002 and 1999, respectively.

James went off to San Diego State University, while Sophie went to the University of Colorado at Boulder. The two wouldn’t reconnect again until 2008, after James had moved back to the U.S. from London, where he built a successful online ticket resale business post-graduation that was eventually acquired by Ticketmaster. On their first date, James told Sophie (née Boddington) he wanted to trade in that life for one as a rancher. Sophie, then a UCSF stem cell researcher working 80 hours a week and on the edge of burn-out, was intrigued.

Primed with cash from his company’s acquisition and with real estate prices down because of the Great Recession, when the couple discovered the two-story glass and corrugated metal home, its 5-acre Pinot Noir vineyard, and the surrounding land, they were able to afford it.

In May 2010, they went into escrow on the sprawling, 130-acre mountaintop property.

In 2012, Sophie and James got married on the mountain, the ceremony held looking east over Jack London State Historic Park. Five years and two children later, the Grays realized the only way they could afford to keep their retreat was if they made the land work. It was time, they decided, to turn their small-scale Pinot Noir and rosé wine production into a commercial enterprise.

Sophie took her innate understanding of design and visuals and paired it with a work ethic honed over years in the medical research field to build a highly engaged social media following for their small wine brand.

“I realized, ‘Oh my gosh, they love our story. They love watching us live our life up here. They are interested in the wine, and Instagram is helping us,’” Sophie says. “… What’s interesting is that when you’re allowed to get creative, you figure it out.”

Through videos and photos, Sophie shares her young family’s experiences at their mountaintop country home. Views from sunrise walks, hilltops peeking out from a sea of low-lying clouds, the Grays’ daughters playing in the pool on a summer afternoon, and decadent tablescapes from luxe wine club events pepper the winery’s Instagram account (@sophiejameswine). It’s a vision so appealing that it allows them to skirt the need for a traditional tasting room setting, instead relying on word of mouth, private wine club experiences on the mountain, and intimate tastings at hip Bay Area venues to draw new members to their entirely direct-to-consumer business.

Kelsey Sheofsky, an early member of Sophie James’ “Tribe,” as the wine club is known, owns a pop-up luxury tent company that has partnered with the wine brand in the past. And while she loves the wines, Sheofsky joined the club to be part of the community more than anything, she says.

“I think it’s more about the people and the other members and getting to go,” Sheofsky says. “I think the people that are part of the club are not so much caring about getting their wine delivery — it’s more like they’re caring about what am I getting invited to do to pick up my wine, what experiences am I going to be introduced to.”

Sheofksy’s Shelter Co. works with the winery to create mountaintop glamping experiences, providing luxury tents for wine club members to stay the night in — an idea Sophie dreamed up so her wine club members could witness the dramatic sunrise views she posts so regularly on Instagram.

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I didn't have have a background in wine. I didn't have a background in marketing or sales. I had a background in understanding the power of hard work and not being afraid of dreaming big and taking a chance in life – even if it meant having to completely reinvent myself and go through a very long period of time where I really struggled. I am proud of myself for not only being brave enough to launch a company that I previously had no experience in but that I did it after having babies and didn't fall into the trap of feeling cornered in my career when I was in my 20's – a career that didn't bring the best out in me. I’m proud that I was brave enough to take that leap of faith and listen to the universe calling me. Thank you all for helping me live my dream ?? @jamie_diger

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The picturesque landscape, the high-end chef dinners Sophie organizes for club members, the emphasis on interesting brand partnerships, and the fact that the business is run by a young, working mother all combine for an intoxicating brand story and marketing approach grasped by few other Wine Country labels. It’s one Sophie saw, most notably, being used by Sonoma Valley’s Scribe, which grew its own direct-to-consumer fanbase through a similar strategy revolving around members-only events and limited distribution.

“A lot of people in the city who are in the grind, basically, they’re dreaming about the future,” James says. “And they’re dreaming about a better life for themselves. … People come up and say, ‘Your story is inspiring us because we’re thinking of getting a place in the country and escaping this, and seeing you guys do this gives us confidence.’” When they took ownership, the property was run down — a metal box of a compound once owned by an adult film producer (a deep, green Jacuzzi bath in the master bedroom remains a lasting tribute the property’s previous owner).

The remodel was slow and methodical, with an attention to detail reflected in the way Sophie now runs her wine club. The paint on the building’s exterior was chosen based on a sample of the volcanic soil she brought to Benjamin Moore paints, because she wanted the home to blend in with the land. The now-mature landscaping they designed and planted themselves, purchased from the Sonoma County Jail’s plant nursery. And much of the home’s furniture was bought on a trip the couple took to Bali in July 2010 — the size, warmth, and colors of which blend well with the home’s vaulted ceilings and original brass and Lucite details.

Sophie was raised by parents who purchased and restored Bay Area Victorian homes, and that upbringing prepared her well for the project of renovating their mountaintop home. Over the course of the next two years, getting the property into a suitable living condition would become her full-time job.

With the retirement of Sophie James’ first winemaker, Jeff Baker, and with the wine brand’s expanding waitlist, in 2018 the Grays brought on winemaker Scott Schultz to help guide the business’ future. Whenever Sophie brings up the idea of getting their wine into local restaurants, Schultz — who owns his own Sonoma County label, Jolie-Laide, and has been in the industry since 2007— walks her back.

“You already have this club that people are, like, seething to be part of,” Schultz says. “It’s more like a lifestyle brand. People don’t see the wine on Instagram and say, ‘Oh, I have to have that wine.’ They see the house and the vineyard and the views and the top of the mountain. That’s what she’s creating so well. So it’s much more of a love of the story and the brand. But yes, of course, the wines can’t suck either.”

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Let the light in ✨??

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Membership to the Sophie James Tribe starts at $135 for a three-bottle quarterly release of Pinot Noir and a rosé of the same grape, and includes perks like invitations to mountaintop dinners and exclusive parties around the Bay Area. But with such limited production, access to the wine club is difficult, with demand outpacing current supply and Sophie dreaming of planting an additional 20 acres of vineyard on the property.

From 2012 until harvest 2017, Sophie James sold a portion of their grapes to Flowers Winery. But with production limited to their 5 planted acres, those sales meant their supply couldn’t keep up with the demand of those on the Sophie James waitlist. For harvest 2018, the Grays decided to keep the entire crop for their own label. That means that with the bottling of their 2018 Pinot Noir, they’ll finally have enough product to add new members.

For members of Sophie James’ Tribe, who range in age from their 20s to their 70s and live all over California, the exclusivity adds to the allure of the brand.

“Everyone wants an Instagrammable moment— not just necessarily a photo op, but something to do that’s cool and fun and exclusive, you know,” Sheofsky says. “How do you get to be part of that club? It’s definitely the future of that world. I think it makes so much sense.”

Sonoma County Winery Stars in ‘Wine Country’ and Popular TV Shows

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Between snarf-inducing laughs, it’s hard to dispute that actors Maya Rudolph, Amy Poehler, and Rachael Dratch steal the show in the new Netflix movie, “Wine Country.”

Another star shines brightly too: Healdsburg’s Jordan Winery.

No, the winery itself isn’t in the film—just about all the on-location filming took place in Napa (insert sad trombones here). But a bottle of Jordan’s Chardonnay is front and center in one of the most memorable scenes in the movie.

The scene happens early in the film. The group of six post-college friends meet up in Napa, check into a vacation rental for a long weekend, and immediately get their drink on. Fast-forward to that same evening and the women are out to dinner at a swanky Napa restaurant. They’re reminiscing. They’re cracking jokes. And they’re drinking bottles of Jordan Chardonnay.

The Poehler flick certainly isn’t Jordan’s debut on the silver screen—over the last few years, the winery has become a fixture in movies and on television. In 2019 alone, Jordan wines have been spotted on shows such as “Barry” and “Dead to Me.”

Back up to 2018 and the list includes movies such as “Gloria Bell” and “Book Club,” as well as a host of other television shows. (There’s even a crate of Jordan wine that makes an appearance in “Ironman 3.”)

Many brands pay tens of thousands of dollars per placement for this kind of exposure. Jordan, however, does not. According to spokeswoman Lisa Mattson, the winery doesn’t budget for that kind of marketing but instead gets the exposure from powerful fans in all the right places.

“We’re an established brand with a reputation that everyone knows,” she says. “We make two wines, we make them really well, and we’ve been around for more than 40 years.”

Still, Jordan knows how to work a room. (We’ve already told you about how the winery throws a mean Halloween party.)

This April, Jordan celebrated April Fool’s Day and the release of the 2015 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon with a clever high-end sneaker composed of cork, barrel parts, and other wine packaging materials. The wine represents the first vintage in Jordan history aged entirely in French oak barrels. In other words, it was a pretty big deal.

The footwear, dubbed the Air Jordan XV Retro 2015 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon Limited Edition, was created by Troy Cole, a Los Angeles-based artist, who is known as the “Picasso of Custom Cleats” and affiliated with of Kickasso Kustoms, a brand beloved by celebrities and NFL players alike.

Cole made six pairs of the shoe, with features such as wine cork midsoles, a detachable corkscrew with a Jordan French oak barrel stave handle, and a 2015 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon wine cork lace lock.

The shoes were packaged in small French oak barrels for the ultimate unboxing presentation.

(In a nod to the gag aspect of the sneaks, fictitious “features” also included egg-white fined lining for extra comfort and inserts marinated in coq au vin for 12 months to ensure the shoes always smell like a French restaurant.)

To maximize media buzz, Jordan published a video on April Fool’s Day, then held a release party for the wine in Los Angeles. At the party, Mattson and owner John Jordan gifted shoes to Los Angeles Lakers forward Kyle Kuzma, NFL defensive end Cam Jordan (who already has quite a history with the wine brand), and other celebrities. Tabloid darling Alexis Bellino, of “Real Housewives of Orange County,” made an appearance with her new boyfriend and the paparazzi went nuts.

After the party, Jordan sent another pair of the shoes to LeBron James (yes, that LeBron James) and Troy Aikman, former quarterback for the Dallas Cowboys. Josh Hart, a guard for the Lakers, requested a pair and Cole was expected to deliver it later this spring.

The takeaway from this recent buzz: Jordan slays at marketing. To follow the brand’s exploits, follow them on Twitter. Also, be sure to keep your eyes peeled for the Jordan name in the movies and on your TV/computer screen.

Want to take your marketing game to the next level? Check out these great ideas for increasing media coverage of your winery or hospitality brand.

The Best Old-School Bars in Petaluma

penngrove pub
A shot-and-beer kind of place, the friendly Penngrove Pub on Main Street has been slakeing the thirst of south county locals since 1907. It opens good and early: at 10 a.m., which is a pretty solid indicator of a very good bar, and it’s cash only — another marker. (They have an ATM for those short on bills.) When paired with an amicable bartender and good conversation, like the ones you have here, it’s a knockout combination. 10005 Main St., Penngrove.

From roadhouses to good old-fashioned neighborhood dives, these are the best Petaluma bars of a certain vintage. Perfect for when an ice-cold Coors is calling your name at 3 p.m. on a Tuesday. Click through the gallery for details.

 

An In-Depth Look at the Jenner Beach Slayings

Fish Head Beach, north of Jenner on Tuesday, May 20, 2014. Lindsay Cutshall and Jason Allen were shot to death in their sleeping bags on the beach in August, 2004. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

Editor’s Note: Shaun Michael Gallon, a Forestville man and ex-felon, admitted in a Sonoma County courtroom Thursday to the 2004 murders of Lindsay Cutshall, 22, and Jason Allen, 26, bringing an end to the county’s most unsettling cold case in a generation. Here is an in-depth look at how this tragedy affected the family, locals and investigators, published in Sonoma Magazine in 2014 on the 10-year anniversary of the murders. 


The Pacific Ocean, silver-flecked by the sun, pulls at the slight curve of Fish Head Beach. It’s been a decade since a devout young couple from the Midwest were murdered on the gray sand just north of Jenner. Most days, a salted wind bites at the steep bluffs they would have had to descend to reach the shore.

Except for the startling beauty, there is no visible memorial to Jason Allen and Lindsay Cutshall, shot dead there in 2004 as they slept on the beach, their Bible nearby.

The crime stunned the region and captured national attention. It remains unsolved, the killer or killers still unknown.

“The ugly outside world visited us that night,” said Thomas Yeates, a 30-year resident of Jenner. He spoke this spring in the village of some 140 people, with seaside inns and vacation cottages, a state parks visitor center, a post office, and a gas station-deli.

Yeates, 59, had strolled Fish Head Beach recently with his girlfriend, who is new to the area and unaware of what happened there. While he cannot forget the crime, he did not want murder to cloud their day.

“I didn’t want to bring it up,” he said. “And I didn’t.”

Praying for the ‘enemy’

Lindsay Cutshall grew up in Fresno, Ohio, some 2,500 miles east of Jenner. It has a small post office and a few dozen homes scattered at a distance around some railroad tracks on the edge of Ohio’s Amish Country, where narrow roads carry horse-drawn carriages and wind past red barns and fields of hay and corn.

A “broken” man who would have it no other way lives there: Pastor Chris Cutshall, Lindsay’s father. God can use him fully now, the pastor says.

On the first Sunday in May, Cutshall, 59 and still wiry like the wrestler he was in high school, stood before 217 Fresno Bible Church worshippers — almost the entire congregation — from babes in arms to slow-moving seniors.

He no longer carries his slain daughter’s well-marked Bible when he preaches, as he did for several years; not every sermon can spring from the passages she highlighted. But Lindsay’s name and death — and Jason’s, too — now inhabit the vernacular of the evangelical Fresno Bible Church.

His sermon that day was titled, “The priority of love.” Near its conclusion, Cutshall said to his rapt parishioners: “Did you know that Kathy and I, we pray for the man who killed our kids?… He’s our enemy, but he’s a person in need.”

Faith in God is virtually inseparable from the lives and deaths of Lindsay Cutshall and Jason Allen, 22 and 26, respectively, when they were killed.

It is inseparable from how memories of them are held by their parents, whose deep religiosity promises them a reunion with their children and embraces even their killer. In some cases, it is inseparable from those who track the killers: law enforcement officers who hew to a strong Christianity or, in the murders’ wake, adopted a fervent new faith.

For all that, for how they have forged on, for the way the Fresno Bible Church that Lindsay grew up in has thrived since her death, for how, subsequently, disparate people found the same Christ they worship, the Cutshalls and Allens are grateful and awed.

“Yes, it was a horrible tragedy, an evil thing, but God can still take that and use that for good and for his glory,” said Delores Allen, 62, Jason’s mother, seated with her husband, Bob, in the sunroom of their home in Zeeland, Mich.

Outside the house, the lawns are wide and, for the most part, no fences separate them. The town is a flat landscape; the welcome sign at its border celebrates the championships brought home by the high school sports teams.

Jason grew up there, ensconced in the Baptist faith that has sustained his parents.

“We have the assurance that we know where they are and we know we will see them again,” Delores added. “I know that not all parents have that, and that would be unbearable. If I didn’t have that assurance that they are alive, I don’t know if I could deal with that.”

Driftwood that Jason collected, and also some retrieved from the beach where he was killed, accents the room. It comforts him, said Bob, 67. It reminds him both of Jason and of God’s will, of which he was informed soon after his son’s death.

Days after Jason was killed, Bob learned that not long before, Jason had fallen while rappelling from a 30-foot cliff and narrowly missed a formation of boulders. He went to the spot after his son’s death. Standing there, he said, he heard God’s voice:

“The Lord spoke to me really plainly and he said: ‘Yes, I saved Jason from dying on these rocks. And yes, I could have saved him from dying on that beach. But this is for my glory.’ ”

‘An uphill battle’

It was one of the North Coast’s most notorious slayings, garnering coast-to-coast media coverage, and it remains so 10 years later: the murder of a fresh-faced, young couple in love.

Lindsay and Jason, who met at a Bible college and planned to spend their lives ministering to Christian youth, were to marry Sept. 11, 2004. But they failed to show up Monday, Aug. 16, at their summer jobs as counselors at Rock-N-Water, a Christian youth adventure camp in California’s El Dorado County.

The couple had departed Friday night for a weekend trip; it is believed they planned it at the last minute after a full day of whitewater rafting with their youthful charges.

“I had just sent out the wedding invitations and I came back that (Monday) morning and got the call from camp: ‘Jason and Lindsay are missing,’ ” said Lindsay’s mother, Kathy Cutshall, 57, speaking after a hearty lunch of pulled pork in May in the Cutshalls’ cozy mobile home on the church grounds. “My heart dropped. I knew something was wrong.”

The Cutshalls flew out on Tuesday, the Allens on Wednesday. Both couples landed in Reno and drove to Placerville, where they would stay at the home of Craig Lomax, the camp’s owner and director.

Kathy called a friend of Lindsay’s who worked in the Ohio bank that had issued Lindsay’s credit card, and asked if he could help. Was it ethical? she asked.

“He said, ‘It doesn’t matter,’ ” she recalled.

The couple were traced through credit card receipts to San Francisco, where Lindsay had bought a miniature bottle of Tabasco sauce at Fisherman’s Wharf on Saturday. Late Wednesday, their bodies were found on Fish Head Beach, a mile north of Jenner. It was later concluded that they were killed between Saturday night and Sunday morning.

At some point, they had made entries in a sort of visitors’ journal that was kept in a small wooden hutch on the beach.

“The sun is going down in the horizon,” Lindsay wrote. “All I see is the beams shining on the cliff face. And I know that God is awsome (sic). I look around and I see his creation all around me.”

Jason wrote: “As I stir this Mac & Cheese I think to myself what a wonderful life. I’ve just spent two awsome (sic) days with my fiance Lindsay. Can life ever be so perfect. Only with a person who is so great. God gives me this privilege in life and He has given me a wonderful woman to enjoy it.”

They were found in sleeping clothes and separate sleeping bags. Each had been shot once in the head at close range with an uncommon rifle: a Marlin .45-caliber that uses ammunition also suited to handguns.

The crime was confounding, as was the scene.

Nothing, including their camping gear, appeared to have been stolen. Their car, a battered red Ford Tempo parked in a pullout spot on the side of Highway 1 in Jenner, was untouched. The couple had been in Sonoma County for a matter of hours — a photograph in a camera found with them showed they had been at the Golden Gate Bridge earlier Saturday — and knew nobody here. There was no sign of sexual assault. Lindsay was still wearing jewelry including a diamond cross necklace. The couple’s positions in death led investigators to conclude they had been asleep when shot. And the crime scene, in a remote location, had been exposed to the elements for four days.

“We were behind the eight-ball from the start. We had an uphill battle to fight,” Dave Thompson, a Sonoma County Sheriff’s detective who worked the investigation for two years, from its start, said in an interview in May.

Investigators plunged in, positive nonetheless. The five-person Violent Crimes Investigation (VCI) unit was among 25 detectives on the case.

“We had just come off a couple of other cases that were solved, the unit was clicking, and we were going to attack this one and hopefully come to the same conclusion,” said Thompson, now 44. “That was our mind frame: ‘We’ve been handed this thing. Let’s get going.’ Everyone was on their game.”

The vow

On Thursday, Aug. 19, at 6:30 a.m., a group of men approached Lomax’s house at the camp with terrible news.

Now, the recollections of precisely who was there vary. In Thompson’s memory, it was him, Lomax, an El Dorado Sheriff’s Department chaplain and Sonoma County Sheriff’s Sgt. Steve Freitas, then head of VCI. Freitas, now Sonoma County Sheriff, wanted Thompson there because of the detective’s deep Christian faith.

“I brought him basically to interpret the Christians for me,” said Freitas. He had no idea of how the murder case, merely one of 60 or more he has worked on, would change his life.

Chris Cutshall and Bob Allen, sensing what was to come, met them outside.

“It was like, ‘We’re the men of the family. We’re here to take the bad news first,’ ” Thompson said. “We gave it to them. It just confirmed what they had already suspected.”

Then the fathers told the mothers.

“It was almost unreal. They didn’t know anybody. How could they have gotten shot?” Delores said. “And on a beach. Who would have done that?”

“I said to Chris, ‘I can’t do this,’ ” Kathy recalled. “He said, ‘We might not have a choice.’ ”

Detectives began interviewing camp employees, in rooms at opposite ends of the house. The Cutshalls and Allens sat together at the dining table.

They prayed. They wept. They promised they would withstand the devil.

“The four of us made a vow,” Chris said. “That we weren’t going to let Satan have any victories in our lives. That was the vow, that we weren’t going to fall into sin and lose to the devil. He didn’t deserve it and we weren’t going to let it happen.”

A fruitless search

Hundreds of tips poured into the sheriff’s office in the first few days of the hunt for the killer. Detectives quickly broadened their search to outside Sonoma County, looking at similarities in unsolved murder cases in Humboldt County and Arizona to see if there were links.

A drifter — a Wisconsin native still on the road 10 years later — was named a person of interest. He took a polygraph exam and was cleared of involvement.

Coastal residents were shaken.

“Living out on the coast, away from big cities, it’s not something we’re used to,” said Nick Marlow, then a Duncans Mills resident. He purchased a gun soon after, he said, partly in response to the events.

“It was a shock … and resonated throughout the community,” said Marlow, 38, now of Occidental.

Tipsters in the coastal region reported an unfamiliar car with a distinctive decal on its window in the area at the time of the murders; detectives circulated hundreds of fliers.

The rare Marlin rifle was publicly identified as the murder weapon. Detectives went door to door in the county and elsewhere looking for that model of gun, eventually taking about 100 firearms to test.

The weeks wore on and theories abounded: that the couple had stumbled upon a drug deal or an abalone-poaching ring; that they had angered someone by evangelizing or otherwise speaking too openly about their faith. Chris was convinced that one man had stalked the couple.

More time passed. The state posted a $50,000 reward. It is still unclaimed.

Into the fold

As the investigation proceeded with no apparent progress, developments occurred on other fronts that the Cutshalls and Allens have come to see as being of equal importance: People touched by their childrens’ deaths began committing their lives to Jesus.

A future sheriff was one.

As Freitas met Chris Cutshall and Bob Allen to break the news, he also carried another weight. His marriage, strained by factors including his intense commitments at work, was in serious jeopardy.

That was secondary, though, as the moment came to tell the fathers what had happened to their children.

Freitas, 51, still shakes his head when he remembers Cutshall’s reaction.

“When I told those two men that their kids were dead, Chris Cutshall was overjoyed,” Freitas said. “I can remember this day vividly still. In my head, I thought, ‘This guy’s crazy or he’s on drugs.’ ”

On the return trip to Sonoma County, Freitas, taken aback by Cutshall’s response, quizzed Thompson, the stalwart Christian, about his beliefs.

“It didn’t make sense to me, but Dave was able to help explain it to me,” Freitas said. “(Chris) was so happy that his daughter was in heaven and there was no question in his mind that she was in heaven: ‘She’s in heaven and heaven’s a better place than this and I can’t wait to be there with her. Everything’s good.’ ”

For several years prior to the murders, Freitas, who grew up without religion and with no inclination toward it, had been experiencing occasional events that compelled him, he said, to wonder at the possibility of a God.

For example, he said, a congregation he had visited, as a Sheriff’s Department representative, had prayed for him and his wife, who were trying without luck to conceive. A month later she was pregnant.

Still, he said, “I had totally no faith in my life.”

But Cutshall’s reaction, he said, opened the door.

“It was just so … just so sure. He was on such solid ground with that,” Freitas said. “I don’t even know how to explain it. It was just a powerful, powerful thing. It made me very, very curious.”

At some point in those early, awful days, Cutshall recalled, he and Freitas sat in the kitchen and talked, about the case, about their families and about faith.

“He struggled with the whole idea of how a good God could allow innocent kids like ours to die,” said Cutshall, speaking after the worship service as his grandsons, Jackson, 6, and Lucas, 3, played at his feet.

“It really gave me the opportunity to talk about God’s goodness, right after we found out,” Cutshall said, “to witness to him of God’s goodness. I remember him just shaking his head.”

Those conversations resumed months later, after Freitas left VCI. And then there was a moment in 2005, at a dedication ceremony at Rock-N-Water camp of a plaque for Jason and Lindsay, that Freitas, chatting with Cutshall in the woods, said he accepted Jesus Christ as his Lord and Savior.

The murders, said the sheriff, “changed myself and my family.” It led to a faith, which his wife and sons now share, that he believes saved his marriage.

“There is no doubt in my mind that we would have absolutely gotten divorced, if we did not find faith,” said Freitas, who now worships at an evangelical church in Windsor.

The Cutshalls and Allens refer to events such as the sheriff’s discovery of faith — others have included a television journalist and a Brazilian woman who has adopted Cutshall as her surname — as “Lindsay and Jason fruit.”

“When I tell our story in testimony,” said Chris Cutshall, “I usually use the Freitas family as an example of God’s goodness. God causes all things to work together for good to those who love God.

“Out of this awfulness, this tragedy that was very personally experienced, we’ve seen God keep that promise.”

‘It has not gotten cold’

“It’s always in the back of my mind, just like it has been for the last 10 years,” said Sheriff’s Lt. Carlos Basurto, who oversees VCI now and was one of the first detectives to set foot on Fish Head Beach on that Wednesday in 2004.

Perhaps the brightest hope for a resolution to the case came in 2009. Joseph Henry Burgess, a fugitive wanted in connection with the 1972 slaying of a young Christian couple as they slept on a Vancouver Island beach, got into a gunfight in New Mexico in which he and a sheriff’s deputy were killed.

Sonoma County detectives flew to New Mexico to see if there were ties between the 1972 case and the killings of Jason and Lindsay. But Burgess’ DNA did not match that found on a beer bottle discovered at the scene of the Fish Head Beach murders.

That didn’t exclude Burgess as a suspect, but it meant he could not be connected to the slayings through any other means — by anything in a dozen 4-inch binders of tips, for example, or piles of boxes of investigative research.

“It was extremely frustrating, extremely frustrating,” Basurto said. Still, detectives continue to work the case.

“Although it’s considered a cold case, it has not gotten cold,” he said.

In February, detectives flew to the East Coast — Basurto won’t say where — to interview a “person of interest.” There have been no public developments as a result, but that angle remains open, Basurto said, and other persons of interest are also being explored.

Several viable tips come in monthly that detectives track down, and at times are solid enough to mobilize the unit.

“We’ve had so many different leads that were burning hot … that ended up flaming out,” Basurto said.

The case is, in some ways, a sore point.

“It seems like a black eye, on my tenure, at least, in VCI,” Thompson said.

But the Christian in him, as well as the veteran law enforcement officer, holds out a strong hope.

“One of these days, there’ll be some sort of break,” Thompson said. “I know there are enough people still working on it, still thinking about it and still praying about it.”

When it comes to the possibility that one day they might know who killed their children, “closure” is not a word that the Allens and Cutshalls use. They concede an interest in the killer’s capture — she would like to ask him why, Delores said. Chris said he would like to have him ask their forgiveness. But in conversation, those concerns seem overshadowed by their commitment to forgiveness and their certainty that the killer will one day face a superior judgment.

“We believe in the justice system, too, and we know there are consequences to sin and we would like to see the person caught,” Delores said

“And brought to justice,” added Bob.

“And brought to justice,” echoed Delores. “But it would be a miserable life if we were so absorbed in anger and bitterness that we lost our joy and we don’t want anybody to have that power over us, to take joy from our lives. That’s why we give it to the Lord, knowing he is the final judge.”

Chris Cutshall said he also pities the killer, foretelling for him a stern fate.

“That guy doesn’t have to face the pitiful anger of a little human being, of a father,” he said. “He has to face the wrath of God. And knowing scripture and believing scripture as I do, that’s an awful thing. I wouldn’t wish that even on him.”

Grieving and healing

The mothers could not enter their childrens’ bedrooms for several years after the murders.

For nearly three years, Chris Cutshall would periodically find himself flat on the floor, sobbing.

Bob Allen thinks of hunting with his son, and the loss hits him in his gut.

“Jason was an excellent shot,” he said with pride.

For all the prayers, for all the faith, the pain still arrives — Mother’s Day, birthdays, holidays. On any day.

A week before being interviewed in early May, Kathy Cutshall, out of the blue, was weeping.

“It’s almost like a homesickness,” she said.

There still are days when she goes to her part-time job in a jewelry store and cannot stay.

Delores still finds herself crying at times when she comes across things that belonged to Jason.

“They are not unaffected,” said Janna Kuiphof, 36, a childhood friend of Jason’s in Zeeland who is still close to the Allens, and who has come to know the Cutshalls. “There still is a deep and profound sense of loss and sadness because Jason and Lindsay not being here has left a noticeable hole.”

But the families have survived almost unimaginable loss. Indeed, they appear to have thrived.

They have been helped by the almost certain knowledge that their children were sleeping when they were shot.

And for the Cutshalls, in particular, the fact that no evidence of sexual assault was detected has softened the tragedy.

“There were some things that I think God knew I couldn’t handle. And one was if there had been torture,” Kathy said. “Or if I knew they had pain. And he (God) took care of that.”

“It would have been much worse,” Chris added, his voice far flatter than usual. “It would have been much harder. I mean as bad as it is: our daughter got shot in the head, and our son, basically. Awful. But it could have been worse. And I’ve always been thankful for that.”

The arrival of grandchilden has also played a large role in the recovery of both families, each of which has other children. But indisputably, it is their faith — and the belief that positives have sprung from the tragedy — that have steered them to a place where peace of mind and heart is possible.

“There is a lot of good that has come, and they’re in a wonderful place, and if I didn’t know or feel that, it would be quite different,” Kathy said. She acknowledges, though, that to come to that point took years.

“At the beginning, when I’d hear people say that, I used to want to just shake them,” she said. “But I’d think, ‘No, I wouldn’t want anybody to know that kind of deep pain.’ ”

Delores and Bob say the unexpected ability to live without rage at the killer has been a blessing.

“The more the anger builds, the more it tears you down,” Bob said. “We were able to give that anger to the Lord, so we’re not angry.”

“We don’t hold any anger or bitterness to this person. We know that this person is a lost soul,” Delores added. “And Jason and Lindsay dedicated their lives to bringing good news to those people who are lost.”

Cutshall has flourished as a pastor, the congregation is more solid than it was before the killings, and his power as a Christian minister has grown.

“We are a faith family,” he said. “There’s a lot of love there and that has increased quite a bit since Lindsay died. It has deepened our love and compassion for each other.”

He added, “I think it’s deepened the church’s respect for me. It gave me clout. Before I would get, every once in a while, ‘You don’t understand. You haven’t gone through what I’ve been through.’ I don’t get that anymore.”

He sees God’s hand at play in “selecting” the families who were to go through their ordeal.

“We were both theologically, spiritually on the same page from the very beginning. We were ready. That’s always struck me,” he said. “It’s almost like we were called to this and God knew what he was doing, so that God could be glorified and Satan couldn’t win in our lives.”

Still, Cutshall, who wears a ring of his daughter’s on the little finger of his right hand, doesn’t like to visit the gravesite near Fresno where Jason and Lindsay’s cremated remains are buried together — as if they had married — in the same casket.

Faith, he said, is not, and should not be, an exemption from sorrow.

“The biggest fear I’ve had over the years is that I wouldn’t grieve over her any longer,” Cutshall said. “She’s worth it. She’s worthy. I’m her father. This is her mother. We feel kind of fearful to get to that place where we wouldn’t anymore. We don’t break into tears all the time anymore. But we still grieve.”