Sonoma Magazine

Where to Find the Best Budget Bites in Sonoma County

October 2024

By Maci Martell

Barbecue chicken with a salad and curry rice from Red Bee BBQ in Santa Rosa. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)

In luxurious Wine Country, it can sometimes be hard to find a decent meal that doesn’t make your bank do a double take. While Sonoma County is rich in gourmet dining, it lacks in satisfying cheap eats.

Yes, most restaurants have been hit with inflation and consequent rising costs of ingredients. But local residents are feeling the strain on their wallets, too. So we set out to find where you can get a meal for $20 or less.

You won’t find artfully crafted, tweezer-perfect cuisine on this list. Rather, it’s an assortment of humble yet fulfilling dishes that are as affordable as they are tasty.

Read on below to find the most best budget bites in Sonoma County, and scroll through the gallery above for a sneak peek.

Affordable diner food at Mac's Deli — Hot Corned Beef Sandwich combo with potato salad and a tap beer from Mac’s Deli in downtown Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Santa Rosa

Fourth Street Deli

It doesn’t get much more “best bites on a budget” than this casual corner deli. All sandwiches are under $13 — a favorite is the Spicy Chicken Chipotle Panini ($10.95) with chicken breast, chipotle cream cheese, onions, peppers and pepper jack cheese. Throw in a half-pint deli side, such as the orzo, broccoli crunch or southwest quinoa salads ($5.45 each). You could stop there for a satisfying $16.40 lunch, but why not throw in a housemade cookie ($2.95) for good measure?

300 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-573-9832, fourthstreetdeli.com

Mac’s Deli

Go a la carte for the best budget deals at this historic local delicatessen. For breakfast, you can’t go wrong with two eggs and toast ($7.75), home fries or hash browns ($6) and a choice of bacon, ham or sausage ($5.50) — a total of $19.25. Better yet, go for the short stack of pancakes ($10) and two eggs ($5) for a filling $15 breakfast. For lunch, go for the Reuben ($15.25) with a side of onion rings ($3); or the French dip served with au jus and choice of fries or potato salad for $15.50.

630 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-3785, macsdeliandcafe.com

A’Roma Roasters

This Railroad Square coffee shop has an artsy charm as well as an assortment of affordable meals. The breakfast sandwich ($7.25) comes with two eggs, cheddar and bacon or ham on a buttery croissant. For lunch, try the veggie burger ($9.25) with hummus, lettuce and tomato on ciabatta bread. Don’t forget to check out the goodies behind the counter, including scones, muffins, cookies and cinnamon twists.

95 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-576-7765, aromaroasters.com

Falafel wrap at Zoftig restaurant in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Zoftig Eatery

Zoftig’s breakfast sandwich ($6.50) is simple but delicious, with eggs and chedder on a housemade English muffin. Add-ons like avocado, bacon and ham are $2. For lunch, try the falafel wrap ($14.50) or the loaded Maccabi Bowl ($16.50) with falafel, hummus, baba ganoush, quinoa tabbouleh, mixed greens, beet and walnut dip, and whole wheat chips.

57 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-521-9554, zoftigeatery.com

Mel’s Fish & Chips

Look to the sides and craft your own combo at this local fish and chips institution. Try the one piece fish ($7.49), clam strips ($5.99), chips ($4.99) and individual side of coleslaw ($1). Plus, find corn dogs for $3.50 and fish tacos for $4.25.

1016 Hopper Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-578-1954, melsfishandchips.com

Roseland Taco Trucks

The trucks lining Roseland’s Sebastopol Road, including Mitote Food Park, boast delicious eats for a fraction of what you’d pay at most sit-down eateries. Best bets include Gio y Los Magos Mexican Grill for quesabirria tacos ($4); Delicias Elenita for tamales ($4); Lucha Sabina for mushroom quesadillas ($13); El Roy’s for tacos dorados (three for $11.25); and Pupusas Y Tacos Marquez for pupusas de carne ($4).

Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa

Affordable eats at Mitote Food Park — Jose Cazares, right, owner of the Gio y Los Magos Mexican Grill truck holding a plate of birria tacos during the ribbon cutting celebration of the new Mitote Food Park on Sebastopol Road in the Roseland neighborhood of Santa Rosa, on Thursday, July 14, 2022. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)

Pho Vietnam

Consistently hailed as having the best pho in town, Pho Vietnam delivers on generous portions and reasonable prices. Locals like the bun bo hue (from small to extra large size, $11.25-$13.75), a spicy noodle soup with pork and pork blood; as well as the egg noodle chicken soup (from small to extra large size, $11.95-$14.75).

711 Stony Point Road, Suite 8, Santa Rosa, 707-571-7687

Thuận-Phát Vietnamese Sandwiches

A locals’ favorite with some the most affordable banh mi sandwiches around ($7.50 for all). Popular picks are the grilled pork and grilled chicken sandwiches with cilantro and pickled veggies on a French roll.

3020 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-889-3966

A Dog A Day

More than just a hot dog stand, this small food shack offers affordable breakfast and lunch staples. Find a ham, egg and cheese croissant ($8.30), bacon and sausage-stuffed breakfast burrito ($9.50) and chicken sandwich ($9.55). But, of course, you’re here for a dog. The Millers Giant Dog ($6.75) is a quarter-pound all beef hot dog, ready to be dressed in Chicago-style toppings ($2.99), like sweet relish, dill pickle, diced white onions and pepperoncinis.

4055 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-772-7799

Pupuseria Salvadorena

With a variety of pupusas for $4.50 each, you can try a handful and still be around the $20 mark. Fillings include beans, pork, chicken, shrimp, squash, spinach and loroco blossoms. Also, sweet and savory tamales are $4 each.

1403 Maple Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-544-3141

Bowl & Roll

This unassuming Korean and Japanese spot is known for its large portions and friendly service. The spicy chicken bowl ($16.95) is a best seller — a heap of barbecued chicken sauteed with onions and spicy Korean sauce on a bed of rice and topped with sesame seeds, served with a side salad.

1331 Guerneville Road, Suite Q, Santa Rosa, 707-595-3772, bowlandrollrestaurant.com

Petaluma

Roy’s Chicago Dogs at the Yard

Tucked away at the Petaluma Livestock Auction Yard, Roy’s Chicago Dogs offers Vienna all beef hot dogs. Go for the classic Chicago Dog ($7.50), D’s Killa Dog ($7.75) with chipotle barbecue sauce, chopped onions and coleslaw; or the Reuben Dog ($11) with pastrami, Swiss, sauerkraut and a pickle spear.

84 Corona Road, Petaluma, 707-774-1574

Petaluma Brunch Station

For a hearty pick-me-up at this all-day breakfast and lunch eatery, go for the Wake Up Scramble ($16) — three eggs scrambled with chorizo, corn, red onions and avocado, served with toast and home fries or hash browns. Or go big with the filling French Toast Combo ($17.50): three pieces of brioche French toast dipped in Kahlua batter and served with orange butter, plus two eggs and two pieces of bacon or sausage. For lunch, the sourdough burger ($15) includes two quarter-pound patties on fan favorite grilled sourdough with Swiss cheese, grilled mushrooms, red onions, bacon and house sauce. Burgers come with a choice of soup, salad or fries.

732 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 707-762-4095, thebrunchstation.com

Pete’s Henny Penny

This longtime Petaluma breakfast staple has a long menu of diner classics. The pancake combo ($12.95) is a great deal — featuring three buttermilk pancakes, two eggs and two pieces of bacon or sausage. For lunch, all sandwiches are under $20 and come with your choice of side: fries, salad, coleslaw, potato salad or cup of soup.

4995 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-763-0459, peteshennypennys.com

Chunky’s Taqueria

This inexpensive and community-minded taqueria near Santa Rosa Junior College’s Petaluma campus offers meals even broke college students could afford. The super burrito ($9) is as filling as it is delicious, especially with the carne asada or pollo rojo. Tortas are $7.50, tacos are $3.25 and corn quesadillas are just $1.85.

701 Sonoma Mountain Pkwy, Petaluma, 707-775-3325

Donut Den

Doughnuts and Chinese food don’t sound like a typical match, but here, it works. Doughnuts and other pastries range from $1.99 to $3.89 each and include glazed, jelly-filled, maple bars, old fashions, apple fritters, French crullers and cinnamon rolls. For a quick breakfast, go for the sausage, egg and cheese on an English muffin ($5.99). Some favored lunches include the orange chicken ($13.99) and Mongolian beef with peppers ($15.99); each come with steamed rice.

1390 N. McDowell Blvd., Suite J, Petaluma, 707-792-1312

Rohnert Park

Art’s Place

The late, great Pasta King’s (Art Ibleto) Italian restaurant has everything from pasta and pizza to salads and sandwiches. Go for the meatball sub ($16), barbecue pulled pork sandwich ($14) or the spaghetti half & half ($19) with marinara and pesto sauces.

563 Rohnert Park Expy, Rohnert Park, 707-588-2787, artsplacerp.weebly.com

Smokin’ Bowls

This casual eatery has something for everyone’s tastes, with everything on the menu under $11. Fan favorites include the Dragon Bowl ($8.75) — fried rice with bacon, chicken in a hot-sweet sauce, cashews and green onions — and the Bowl Named Sue ($9.25), with mashed potatoes, chicken, corn, bacon, green onions and gravy.

295 Southwest Blvd., Rohnert Park, 707-665-5265, smokinbowls.com

Sonoma

Baker & Cook

A must-stop for your morning pick-me-up and baked goods fix, this charming bakery has a cute garden patio and offers plenty of fresh pastries and baked breads under $10 daily. Try the quiche ($6), morning bun ($5), jam-filled brioche doughnut ($5) and turkey bagel ($16) with turkey, bacon, sautéed onions, lemon cream cheese and arugula.

18812 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-938-7329, bakerandcooksonoma.com

Broadway Market

For over 70 years, Broadway Market has been supplying fresh produce, premium meats, local wines and deli sandwiches — all at reasonable prices for the high quality. Best bets include the pepper turkey sandwich ($7) and the tri-tip sandwich ($9.50).

20511 Broadway, Sonoma, 707-938-2685, broadwaymarketsonoma.com

Juanita Juanita

This unpretentious eatery brings California flare to its traditional Mexican cuisine. Go for the fish tacos ($3.75), regular quesadillas ($7.50) or the praise-winning Garlic Garlic Burrito ($15.95).

19114 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-935-3981, juanitajuanita.com

Fish Taco Special with Bodega Bay rockfish, pickled onion, jicama and cucumber from Juanita Juanita in Sonoma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

El Huerto of Sonoma

Who said eating healthy has to be expensive? El Huerto serves fresh and nutritious smoothies, “glow bowls,” salads, paninis and more, all at fair prices. Best bites include the avocado toast ($4.75), the Hulk smoothie ($5.95 for a medium, $7.5o for a large) and the acai bowl ($9.75).

19213 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-934-8791, elhuertohealthysna.wixsite.com/clean

Sonoma’s Best

As a mercantile with accompanying deli, wine shop and cottage lodge, Sonoma’s Best has it all with prices to fit every budget. Best bites include the breakfast burrito ($7.99), the Sonoma dog with all the fixings ($8.99) and the chicken panini ($12.50).

1190 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-996-7600, sonomas-best.com

Healdsburg

Downtown Bakery & Creamery

This humble bakery by the Healdsburg Plaza has been offering affordable, delicious treats since 1987. Everything on the menu, save for large cakes and a bag of bagels, is under $10. Go for the breakfast sandwich ($9.26), with scrambled eggs, cheddar and ham or bacon on a housemade English muffin. Throw in a doughnut muffin ($3.50) or coffee cake ($4.25) to add some sweetness to your breakfast. The grilled ham and cheese sandwich ($7), with housemade aioli on a French baguette, makes for a quick and satisfying lunch. Also, grab a personal favorite brownie cupcake ($3.50) and thank me later.

308 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-431-2719, downtownbakeryhealdsburg.com

affordable pastries from Healdsburg's Downtown Bakery — Croissants, sticky buns, blueberry scones and a baby apple quince galette from the Downtown Bakery and Creamery in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The Wurst Restaurant

Best bites at this casual, Midwest-inspired hot dog joint include the Detroit Polish Kielbasa ($12), the Chicago Dog ($12) with green relish, dill pickle spears, fresh veggies and mustard, and the Southwest Turkey Burger ($13) with grilled veggies, pepper jack cheese, avocado and chipotle sauce.

22 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-395-0214, thewurst.com

Shelton’s Natural Foods Market

Doubling as a health foods store and deli, Shelton’s has long been a dependable market for nutritious grub at a fair price. Best bites include the Crunchy Veggie sandwich ($10.99) with pesto, sprouts, cucumber, tomato, onion, avocado, almonds and cream cheese, and the Sonoma Special ($12.49) with smoked turkey, pepper jack, avocado, red onions, lettuce and tomato.

428 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-431-0530, sheltonsmarket.com

Taqueria Guadalajara

An unassuming hole-in-the-wall Mexican eatery, Taqueria Guadalajara is one of those places most adored by regulars and locals in the know. Fresh ingredients, generous portions, friendly staff and reliably affordable eats make this taqueria a true dependable gem. Best bites include the regular tacos ($3.69 each), chicken tostada ($6.65) and regular burrito with carnitas or al pastor ($10.75). Do yourself a favor and order a housemade horchata ($3.25), speckled with fresh bits of cinnamon.

125 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-1052, ordertaqueriaguadalajara.com

Otoro Sushi

Otoro excels in fresh, colorful sushi rolls, light and crispy tempura, a cozy modern ambiance and fast, friendly service. Best bites include the miso soup ($3), chicken karaage ($8), spicy California roll ($8) and tempura veggie roll ($10). Or go for the one-item bento box ($18) for a filling meal of rice, soup, salad and choice of protein (salmon teriyaki and spicy chicken are recommended).

1280 Healdsburg Ave., Suite 101, Healdsburg, 707-756-3932, otorohealdsburg.com

Big John’s Market

This family-run grocery store has been around for 30 years, selling everything from organic produce and local baked goods to housemade sausage and sushi. Big John’s sandwich deli and pizza oven are great for affordable, made-to-order lunches (all sandwiches are $10.99 or under, and pizzas are $12.99 or under). Go for the Fitch Mountain sandwich ($10.99) with chicken breast, bacon, provolone, tomato, avocado and chipotle spread; the Center Street sandwich ($10.99) with prosciutto, fig, blue cheese and olive spread; and the Funghi pizza ($9.99) with fontina, oven roasted mushrooms and thyme.

1345 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-7151, bigjohnsmarket.com

Flakey Cream Do-Nuts & Coffee Shop

More than a doughnut and coffee shop, Flakey Cream’s vast menu includes farm-fresh egg breakfasts, burgers, sandwiches and salads. Best bites include the regular glaze ($2) and jelly-filled ($4) doughnuts; Huevos Rancheros ($16) with two eggs, chorizo, black beans, avocado and salsa on tortillas; and the Big Bird ($16) with two thick slices of French toast, two eggs and two pieces of your choice of sausage, bacon or grilled ham.

441 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-433-3895

Sebastopol

King Falafel

Specializing in Mediterranean fare, best bites here include the regular falafel sandwich ($8.99), lamb or chicken gyro ($9.99) and the chicken kabob plate ($14.99). You’ll also want to throw in the fattoush salad ($7.99).

100 Brown St., Suite 150, Sebastopol, 707-824-4800

Sebastopol Sunshine Café

Best bets at this casual diner include sweet cream pancakes topped with fruit and whipped cream ($8.99), the Sunshine scramble with beef, veggies, cheese and potatoes ($10.99) and the patty melt (10.49) served with choice of side.

124 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-827-3935, sebastopolsunshinecafe.com

Forestville

Carr’s Drive In

Back when El Molino High School was still in session, this was the spot for burgers, fries and shakes. Still offering up great, affordable burger shack grub, grab a regular burger ($5.10, cheese is $0.70 – $1), fried chicken sandwich ($7.20), chili dog ($7.30) and fries ($3.20). Throw in a shake or float for $5.50.

6533 Covey Road, Forestville, 707-887-7053

Guerneville

Guerneville Taco Truck

This taco truck has been a longtime Guerneville staple, always reliably stationed in front of the town’s Safeway. Not only is everything delicious, the whole menu is under $10. Go for the corn tortilla tacos ($2), regular meat or veggie burritos ($8), tortas ($8) and quesadilla supreme ($9).

16405 Highway 116, Guerneville, guernevilletacotruck.com

Coffee Bazaar

This little Russian River coffee house is the right touch of cozy and sophisticated, adorned in local art and situated right next to a bookstore. Cafe food is reasonably priced, too, including the classic breakfast sandwich ($10.95), lamb gyro ($13) and Reuben ($14). Plus, find assorted pastries and other snacks at the counter.

14045 Armstrong Woods Road, Guerneville, 707-869-9706, coffeebazaarcafe.com

Bodega Bay

Spud Point Crab Company

Spud Point has some of the best seafood in the county, and with decent prices to match. Best bets include the New England-style clam chowder ($9.95), albacore tuna sandwich ($10.95) and shrimp cocktail ($11.95).

1910 Westshore Road, Bodega Bay, 707-875-9472, spudpointcrabco.com

The Dog House

There are few American pleasures quite like burgers and hot dogs by the coast. Go for the old fashioned dogs ($11), corn dogs ($10), Dog House club ($13) and third-pound burger ($14). Add loaded cheese fries for $8.

537 Smith Brothers Road, Bodega Bay, 707-875-2441

Multiple Locations

Acme Burger

A single beef burger is $7.10, and add-ons — including various cheeses, sautéed veggies, bacon, avocado and truffle butter — range from $1.10 – $2.35. Make it a combo by adding shoestring fries and a milkshake for $7.95. Plus, only the new east Petaluma location offers 10-inch pizzas, starting at $9.95.

Locations in Cotati, Petaluma and Santa Rosa. acmeburgerco.com

Superburger

While $12.25 might sound like a bit much for a cheeseburger, the half-pound Cheese Superburger is big and meaty enough to last for two lunches. It features 8 ounces of black angus beef topped with choice of cheese, lettuce, tomato, red onions, pickles and mayonnaise on toasted buns. Throw in a regular-size shake ($6), which comes in a variety of fun flavors, such as toffee crunch, birthday cake, mint Oreo, orange creamsicle and caramel apple.

Locations in Santa Rosa, Petaluma, Cotati and Windsor. originalsuperburger.com

A cheeseburger and fries from Superburger. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

El Roy’s

There’s a reason this local taco truck consistently gets rave reviews — and it doesn’t hurt that the service is quick and the prices are more than reasonable for such quality fare. Best bets are the tacos (starting at $2.75), regular quesadilla ($10) and super burrito ($11).

Locations in Santa Rosa and Petaluma. eatelroys.com

Red Bee BBQ

Specializing in fusion-style barbecue, Red Bee’s best bet is the 2 Meats and 2 Sides combo (starting at $16.69), enough for two people (or two lunches for yourself). Meat options include barbecued and teriyaki chicken, pulled pork, tri tip and beef brisket. Sides include cornbread, fried or steamed rice, mac salad, potato salad, baked beans, coleslaw, elote and house salad.

750 Stony Point, Santa Rosa, 707-541-6536; 6560 Hembree Lane, Windsor, 707-836-4090, redbeebbq.com

Grateful Bagel

Sonoma County’s longtime bagel shop is superb for an affordable, handheld meal on the go. The Loxy Lady ($14.95) — with lox, cream cheese, capers, tomato and onion — is a local favorite. But I’m partial to Ellie’s Spicy Eggel ($9.50), with eggs, pepper jack cheese, avocado and salsa (on an everything bagel, please). With a breakfast for just under $10, you can throw in a $5 Americano without the guilt of knowing you could’ve made it at home.

631 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-535-0570; 300 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-829-5220

Plank Coffee

Featuring a variety of pastries and sandwiches, with plenty of vegan options, Plank Coffee has a healthy selection of morning dishes that won’t break the bank. Best bites include baked-in-house vegan doughnuts ($3.5o each), the basic biscuit with butter and jam ($8.50), the croissant, egg and cheese sandwich ($9.50), and El Peluche ($11.50) — a crispy roll stuffed with scrambled eggs, sharp cheddar, seasoned roasted potatoes and spicy mayo.

175 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-395-0572; 227 N. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale,
707-894-6187, plankcoffee.com

Lola’s Market

A one-stop-shop for seasonal produce, quality meats, grocery items, baked goods and traditional Mexican food, Lola’s Market shines as a reliable grocer selling affordable fare. Go for the al pastor taco ($4.49), quesadilla on a corn tortilla ($4.99), chicken torta ($11.99) and enchilada combo plate ($12.99) served with rice, beans, guacamole and sour cream.

Locations in Healdsburg, Petaluma and Santa Rosa. lolasmarkets.com

Explore Unique Varietals at These Sonoma County Wineries

October 2024

By Carey Sweet

Rick Goodson (r) poured barrel samples for Masha Yelsukova (l) and Amira Dahdouh at Sunce’ winery Sunday March 11th, 2018. Celebrating 41 years, the Wine Road Barrel tasting weekends offer the opportunity to sample wines straight from the barrel, talk to winemakers and explore the beautiful Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River Valleys. (Photo Will Bucquoy/For the Press Democrat)

There’s little doubt that Americans love their Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Last year, those two varietals were the top sellers across the nation, according to Nielsen. No surprise, it’s been that way year after year with the tried-and-true “safe” grapes.

Still, people wanting to explore new flavors are increasingly seeking out varietals they’ve never heard of. Young drinkers don’t want grandpa’s go-tos, says a variety of reports. They want to sip something bold and brave. This also goes for some of us who are not millennials or Gen Z.

Personally, I tend to gravitate toward rare wines from Northern California, lured in by some tongue-twister grape name that might sound, well, a little made up. Thankfully for me and others who want to taste something a little different, more local wineries are stepping up to the plate (or glass), tempting us with uncommon and entirely exciting new tastes that they’ve produced on our own soil. Here are a few to explore.

Idlewild Wines

The boutique winery focuses on a lengthy selection of Piedmontese-northern Italian grapes, grown in the Russian River Valley and Mendocino County. These are small batch gems, meaning just 87 cases of 2023 Grignolino were produced ($42), for example, and 75 cases of the 2022 Timorraso ($42).

I adore the Grignolino, a deep salmon-colored red wine that brims with more tannins than you’d expect from its naturally paler hue, and delicate flavors of rose, sage, white peppercorn and strawberry.

Founder-winemaker Sam Bilbro says that his inaugural 2022 release is the first Timorasso ever made outside of Piedmont, helping to preserve a grape variety that nearly went extinct 30 years ago until dedicated Italian winemaker Walter Massa resurrected it in 1987. The white wine is a rapturous achievement, light with lemon balm citrus and flowers, but also earthy with a touch of steel, petrol and honey.

Explore at the modern, industrial-artsy tasting room. 132 Plaza St., Healdsburg, 707-385-9410, idlewildwines.com.

Marimar Estate Vineyards & Winery

Founder-president Marimar Torres was born in Barcelona, Spain, and has long loved Godello from the northwest region of Valdeorras. Her Sebastopol winery’s location reminded her of the area, so she planted an acre of the white grapes in her Don Miguel vineyard to see how the cool, foggy climate would succeed. The first vintage in 2020 was magnificent, bringing 99 cases of the savory quaff touched with lemon zest, green apples, quince and guava.

The current 2023 vintage is now up to 398 cases, drawn from that same one-acre of vines that clearly likes its home. The wine is still in limited supply, though, and the e-commerce site tells you its only sold to club members ($46). But check in with the tasting room — the Godello is poured there often — and exceptions are easily made.

Explore at the castle-chic tasting room, along with other Spanish varietals like Albariño and Tempranillo. 11400 Graton Road, Sebastopol, 707-823-4365, marimarestate.com.

Masha Yelsukova and Amira Dahdough enjoyed barrel samples at Sunce' Winery Sunday March 11th, 2018. Celebrating 41 years, the Wine Road Barrel tasting weekends offer the opportunity to sample wines straight from the barrel, talk to winemakers and explore the beautiful Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River Valleys. (Photo Will Bucquoy/For the Press Democrat) — Masha Yelsukova and Amira Dahdough enjoy barrel samples at Sunce Winery & Vineyard in Santa Rosa, 2018. (Will Bucquoy/for The Press Democrat)

Sunce Winery & Vineyard

The property spans just four acres on the storied, winery-centric Olivet Road in northwest Santa Rosa. But the winery turns out more than four dozen wines in so many styles I can hardly keep track year-to-year.

You’ll find a mesmerizing array of unusual European varietals ranging from Aglianico to Nebbiolo, Souza, Lagrein, Negroamaro, Rosa del Peru, Trincadeira and Valdiguie. Owner Frane Franicevic is from Croatia, so he and his wife Janae Franicevic also grow a grape that originated in his home country, called Crljenak Kaštelanski (here, we know it as Zinfandel).

This is a labor intensive operation for the tiny winery team, involving farming fruit from the estate and sourcing from numerous other vineyards, then making wines in as little production as four barrels. Each tasting experience is customized, too, catering to your preferred styles, and inviting you to sample some varietals you may not be able to pronounce, but will likely love.

Explore at the quaint, farm cottage tasting room. 1839 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa, 707-526-9463, suncewinery.com.

Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah!

Yes, that really is this new winery’s brand name. Owned by husband-and-wife team Hardy Wallace and Kate Graham, it produces “energy wines,” which come in fun names like the 2021 SO GOOD! orange wine of old-vine Mendocino Chenin Blanc.

The 2021 SO GOOD! is colored from 40 days of skin contact and is rich with rocks, herbs, dried citrus, “labdanum, frankincense and fenugreek” (the latter part of that description comes from “vine whisperer” Wallace, and if I knew what labdanum was, I could tell you if I agree).

You’ll find that many of the micro-production wines sell out quickly, prices can vary between pre- and post-release, and you’ll want to pay attention when your host describes the complex blends (a 2021 Mystery Train is a rainbow of Old Vine Grenache, Old Vine Zinfandel, Old Vine Carignane, Old Vine Mourvèdre and Chenin Blanc).

Explore at the sleek tasting room decorated in metaphysical art. 27 E. Napa St., Suite E, Sonoma, 707-682-9324, winecoyeah.com.

Bazaar Sonoma Is ‘Traditional Chinese With Untraditional Values’

October 2024

By Heather Irwin

Forestville’s new restaurant Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini Oct. 17, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

For Sean Quan and Jenny Phan, Bazaar Sonoma is personal.

Inspired by childhood and travel memories, Forestville’s Bazaar Sonoma (shorthanded as BaSo), reflects the couple’s desire to treat Sonoma County to more innovative regional Chinese cuisine and, most importantly, to showcase the food Quan always made for family meal, a communal meal shared by restaurant staff before service.

“This is a 180 from what I used to do,” said Quan, an alum of Healdsburg’s SingleThread and other Michelin-starred restaurants. “When it came to family meal, I would just whip up something I grew up eating and not have to overthink it.”

For the past three years, the couple have run adventurous (and often very secretive) pop-up dinners that featured fried chicken at their late-night Second Staff restaurant takeovers; dim sum through the high-low concept FNCY + PNTS; and “traditional (Chinese) cuisine with untraditional values” through The Matriarch. Many of The Matriarch dishes have reappeared at Bazaar Sonoma.

Chinese restaurant Bazaar Sonoma in Forestville — Co-owner chef Sean Quan tosses Toothpick Beef in a wok at Forestville’s new restaurant Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini Oct. 17, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Beef from Chinese restaurant Bazaar Sonoma in Forestville — Toothpick Beef dusted with peanuts and intense aromatics served as a finger food or over rice from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Born in China, Quan was raised in the U.S., eating the food his parents knew best, though he rejected it as a young chef. Now, he and Phan are embracing an unapologetic menu of regional Chinese cuisine based heavily on dramatic and flavorful Szechuan recipes.

“It’s not exactly the kind of food we grew up eating, but I’m rediscovering things I had as a kid … those recipes are a jumping-off point,” said Quan. “But I’m learning there is so much more to explore.”

Though it’s easy to call dishes like mapo tofu and Shanghai noodles “authentic,” especially when there is a dearth of Chinese food in Sonoma County that hasn’t been Americanized, Quan shies away from the description.

“It’s ‘unapologetic,'” he said. “In China, they don’t make concessions to people’s comfort with the food. There are bones and gristle. You pick it out. That makes the food feel real.”

And though you won’t find any bones or gristly bits in his cooking, Quan says Bazaar Sonoma is not about making things more palatable for a larger audience.

“We respect your palate and your adventurousness,” he said.

Zhong Dumplings with BaSo homemade chili crisp and sweet pork dumplings from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini Oct. 17, 2024 in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Zhong Dumplings with BaSo homemade chili crisp and sweet pork dumplings from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Best Bets

Zhong Dumplings, $13: This classic Szechuanese water dumpling filled with pork is all about the sauce. “It’s what cooks would call a perfect dish — it has everything, but it’s so simple,” said Quan.

For the popular Chengdu-style street snack, he mixes three kinds of soy sauce, brown sugar, garlic, a collection of Chinese spices (Quan calls the mix his “mystery spice”) and Bazaar Sonoma’s chili crunch to an unctuous gravy-like consistency. Poured over the soft, slippery dumplings, it is an intoxicatingly sweet, spicy, savory mess that surprises you with every bite.

“Every shop makes it a little different, depending on what they put in their chili crunch, spices, meats, but it’s irresistible … once you get it in your brain, you love it,” said Quan.

Additional steamed dumplings (all $13 for 6), including Shanghai Soup Dumplings and Shumai with pork and prawns, are made-to-order, arriving scalding hot but too alluring not to dive into despite any burned tongues.

“This is the season when people get together with family to make dumplings and bao,” said Quan, who puts Phan and his visiting parents to work on a family project. The couple plan to add more dumpling styles in November.

Hot and Sour Potato Stir Fry, $12: Though it’s made with the simplest of ingredients — grated potatoes and carrots, garlic, vinegar, salt and a bit of sugar — this dish is complex in a way that’s hard to explain.

“It comes together in a way that’s unique, and every family has their way of making it,” said Quan, whose mother frequently made this dish at home.

Though the potatoes are quickly wok-fried to impart wok hay — which translates as the breath of the wok giving food a smoky flavor — they’re raw enough to have a bit of crunch still. Garlic and rice vinegar play a solid supporting role, but the biggest surprise is that it’s served as a cold salad. Like many of the dishes, you just trust the process. It’s even better as leftovers the next day after the whole kit and kaboodle marinates in the fridge.

Silken Egg and Tomato, $15: Stewed tomatoes sit atop a soft egg custard. Think of it as a savory flan. No chewing necessary.

Black cod from Bazaar Sonoma in Forestville — Black Cod with soy sauce, ginger, greens and a hot infused oil table pour from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Sizzling Black Cod for Two ($27): A large fillet (the fish will change seasonally) gently steamed just to flakiness without overcooking. With dramatic flair, Quan pours boiling oil over the fish and accompanying greens primarily for effect, but it adds intensity to the soy ginger pooled beneath the fillet — one of the best fish dishes I’ve had.

Toothpick Beef, $25: Perhaps one of the most unapologetic dishes features small toothpick-skewered bites of beef encrusted with spices and peanuts. It will bite back if you’re not careful enough to pull out the tiny toothpicks, which also serve as a handy utensil. As an American constantly warned about fish bones, toothpick impalements and spicy food, it’s a surprising presentation (and I felt compelled to warn my dining partners, who rolled their eyes repeatedly). But the spice rub of cumin, fennel, sesame seeds, dried Chinese chiles and roasted brown sugar is nutty, slightly sweet and spicy with a kapow on the tongue.

Smoked Plum Tea, $5: It’s in the same family as hibiscus tea, made with smoked, salt-cured plums, hawthorn, hibiscus root and red dates that are simmered, strained and chilled into a juice-like consistency. I could drink this by the gallon.

Gai Lan with garlic, sesame, char siu sauce and fried shallots from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini Oct. 17, 2024 in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Gai Lan with garlic, sesame, char siu sauce and fried shallots from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Wonton Noodle Soup with pork & shrimp dumplings from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini Oct. 17, 2024 in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Wonton Noodle Soup with pork & shrimp dumplings from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

An adventure in a bowl

Mapo Tofu, $20: I rarely warn anyone off a dish because I can’t tolerate the heat, but this one comes with a two-chili pepper warning notice on the menu. If spicy is your thing, this roiling pot of silky tofu with broad beans, eggplant and chili is a thrill.

“It’s a mix of dishes because mapo tofu is usually made with pork or ham to boost the umami. We use flash-fried eggplant. It’s bold and still bubbling at the table because Szechuan food is so dramatic,” said Quan.

Pair with jasmine rice to cool down the heat.

Also worth ordering

Old Beijing Noodles, $18: Starchy noodles are topped with pork and sweet bean “Bolognese” sauce. It’s the most uncomplicated street food that bursts with flavor once the ingredients are heartily mixed — another next-day favorite.

Vegetables: Gai Lan (Chinese broccoli) with sesame and garlic, topped with fried shallots, and steamed bok choy are great side dishes.

Wonton Noodle Soup, $18: This dish is based on Phan’s memory of eating this soup with her dad. Light pork and shrimp dumplings, egg noodles and a perfumed broth are a loving tribute.

6566 Front St., Forestville, 707-614-8056, bazaar-sonoma.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Last Chance for LA Chef’s Korean Pop-up in Santa Rosa

October 2024

By Heather Irwin

Fried chicken with soy glaze and tartar sauce at the Flamingo Resort’s Lazeaway Turntable pop-up with chef Ki Kim. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Like lingering sunsets and heirloom tomatoes, chef Ki Kim’s Korean (ish) pop-up menu at the Flamingo Resort is winding down, but there’s still time for that last savor of summer through Oct. 30.

The former owner of Kinn restaurant and current chef de cuisine of Michelin-starred Meteora in Los Angeles has created a handful of signature dishes that marry his traditional fine dining skills with Korean flavors.

The monthlong pop-up at Flamingo’s Lazeaway Club is part of the Turntable Takeover that brings renowned chefs from around the country to the Bay Area.
After readers gave mixed reviews of previous Flamingo x Turntable installations, I made a point to vet the dishes.

At Flamingo Resort's Lazeaway Turntable Korean pop-up with chef Ki Kim in Santa Rosa — Heirloom Tomato Salad and Local Halibut Crudo at Flamingo Resort’s Lazeaway Turntable pop-up with chef Ki Kim in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

I was wildly impressed with the Local Halibut Crudo ($19), a small but flavor-packed dish with delicate slices of raw halibut, a sweet garnet yam and aji amarillo puree topped with steelhead roe; and last-of-the-year Heirloom Tomato Salad ($12) that’s a Michelin-worthy bargain with soft burrata, tomato consommé, cherry tomatoes and a quenelle of basil sorbet. It’s fancy and familiar, and I was darn close to licking the bowl on both.

Fried Chicken ($24) is a tender and juicy thigh battered in a delicate tempura with a yin-yang of sweet soy and creamy tartar sauce. Barbecue Short Rib ($32) is a hands-on adventure, featuring leafy butter lettuce and perilla leaves as a wrap for slices of umami-packed beef garnished with enoki ssamjang, pickled daikon and kimchi.

Save room for the Chocolate Mousse ($13), a bombe of sweet-savory mousse enrobed in a chocolate shell with black sesame crumble and Mandarin orange curd.

Chocolate Mousse at the Flamingo Resort's Lazeaway Turntable pop-up in Santa Rosa — Chocolate Mousse at the Flamingo Resort’s Lazeaway Turntable pop-up with chef Ki Kim. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Everyday Lazeaway favorites, like bibimbap, seared salmon with coconut-lemongrass broth, ahi poke with sesame ponzu and pineapple upside-down cake with rum caramel, remain on the menu during the pop-up.

On Nov. 24, the holiday season kicks off at Flamingo Resort with the Sippin’ Santa Tropical Winter Wonderland launch party. Through early January, Lazeaway Club hosts a cocktail pop-up festooned with enough tchotchke and tinsel to choke a yeti.

Featured cocktails will include island-meets-North Pole-inspired cocktails, including Frosty the Merman (rye, vanilla-clove syrup, lime, pear and allspice liqueur); the Sugar Plum Mai Tai (rum, lime, cinnamon and plum); Merry Spritzmas, a take on the Aperol spritz with cognac, lemon, fig preserves and cardamom bitters; and the Snowball’s Chance in Hilo cocktail for two with rum, pineapple, orange, nutmeg and cinnamon syrup.

Seasonally-decorated rooms and suites will also be available.

2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-8530, flamingoresort.com

Plant-based dishes from Goatlandia Kitchen in Sebastopol. (Courtesy of Andie Thornton) — Plant-based dishes from Goatlandia Kitchen in Sebastopol. Goatlandia opened in August and has recently paused its restaurant operations. (Courtesy of Andie Thornton)

Goatlandia changes

Sebastopol’s plant-based Goatlandia Kitchen has paused its restaurant operations, according to owner Deborah Blum. They will focus on catering, special events, classes and parties at the 6811 Laguna Park Way café. Holiday takeaway dinners and a mocktail class are on the horizon, according to Blum.

Previously a barbecue restaurant, the vegan kitchen opened to the public in August. Stay up to date with the changes and new offerings at goatlandia.org.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Barn Owls Are Helping Sonoma County Winegrowers This Harvest, and They Really Don’t Give a Hoot

October 2024

By Nate Seltenrich

Barn owls are the sole vineyard workers to take no note of harvest season. From their perspective up in tree hollows, barn lofts and custom nest boxes mounted on poles, the rows of vines laden with ripe fruit are of little interest.

They’re focused instead on the ground below, where their work is done and their food — rodents — is found. A family of barn owls may eat more than 1,000 in a single season. That translates into a lot of critters that won’t be feasting on the tasty (so we hear) roots of grapevines.

Kelsey Reidinger of Sonoma County Wildlife Rescue says that roughly half of the 40 or so new nest boxes installed annually through its 13-year-old Barn Owl Maintenance Program (BOMP), are placed in vineyards.

“Because gophers can cause such issues for winegrape growers, barn owls are attractive to vintners,” she says.

Angel Van Lawick, granddaughter to famous primatologist Dr. Jane Goodall, places a baby orphaned barn owl with other babies in one of 16 owl boxes at Lynmar Estate near Sebastopol, May 1, 2014. The orphaned owl is placed with a wild mother that will adopt the new baby. Van Lawick is visiting and helping out the Sonoma County Wildlife Rescue from Tanzania. (Crista Jeremiason / The Press Democrat) — Angel Van Lawick places a baby orphaned barn owl in one of 16 owl boxes at Lynmar Estate near Sebastopol. The orphaned owl is placed with other babies and a wild mother that will adopt the new baby. Van Lawick is a granddaughter to primatologist Dr. Jane Goodall. Photo taken May 1, 2014. (Crista Jeremiason / The Press Democrat)

The other half of the group’s owl boxes go into other types of agricultural fields. Either way, the real winner is the region’s overall ecological balance. Barn owls are natural predators of gophers, and our open landscapes are their natural habitat. That’s why they’re called barn owls, after all: They tend to find shelter there, surrounded by farmland.

Barns and fields mimic the tree cavities in grasslands and savannas to which they’re adapted. (Great horned owls, also common countywide, prefer more wooded areas.) Resident owls also forestall the need for rodent poisons, which can be counterproductive by also killing predators.

Though barn owls don’t give a hoot about harvest, late summer and early fall are important for other reasons. This is when juvenile owls, at their own ripe old age of two months, fledge from the nest. And it’s when vacant owl boxes must be thoroughly cleaned, another service that Sonoma County Wildlife Rescue provides.

“After they’re born, these owls are doing all of their business inside of the box, and they do no housekeeping,” Reidinger explains. “Over the 60 days that they’re in the box, it leads to inches of material.”

After all, a clean owl box is a healthy owl box, and a healthy barn owl is worth more than its weight in fine wine.

To learn more about the Barn Owl Maintenance Program or determine if your property is right for a barn owl box, visit scwildliferescue.org/bomp or call 707-992-0274.

Here’s What To Do with That Bag of Table Grapes

October 2024

By Michele Anna Jordan

Ajo blanco with grapes — Table grapes play beautifully in this easy white gazpacho, which has been part of early Spanish food culture since long before the tomato arrived in Europe. (Shutterstock)

Pluck a fat grape from its cluster, pop it into your mouth, and bite down gently — the sweet, smooth juiciness is the taste of early fall. Thin-skinned table grapes, in contrast to their thicker-skinned winemaking cousins, offer bright acidity, few if any seeds, and enchanting names like Perlette, Princess and Flame. Colors range from rosy pink to icy green to deep blue-black.

Table grapes are wonderful on pizza and other flatbreads. And have you ever tried grilling them? Pull them off the bunch, pop them in a grill basket and roast over the grill for a few minutes, then serve with feta cheese, a drizzle of olive oil and crusty bread.

Table grapes play beautifully in this easy white gazpacho, which has been part of early Spanish food culture since long before the tomato arrived in Europe. This version, made with bread, garlic, almonds and peppery olive oil, is finished with sliced table grapes and Marcona almonds — a welcome first course at the fall table.

Ajo Blanco

Serves 4-6

5 to 6 ounces sturdy sourdough bread, a few days old, in chunks

6 plump garlic cloves, peeled

Hot water

1 cup raw almonds, blanched and peeled

4 tbsp. sherry vinegar

1 tsp. hot Spanish paprika

Kosher salt

Freshly cracked black pepper

6 tbsps. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

3/4 cup sliced seedless table grapes

1/3 cup toasted and salted Marcona almonds

Place the bread in a deep bowl and add room-temperature water to cover. Set aside for at least 30 minutes and up to 3 hours.

Put the garlic into a small bowl, cover with hot water and set aside for the same amount of time.

When the bread is very soft, squeeze out as much water as possible and put the wet bread into the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Drain the garlic and add to the bread, along with the blanched almonds and sherry vinegar. Add 1 cup room-temperature water to the mixture and pulse several times, until the mixture is quite smooth. (Soaking the bread, then squeezing out the water, then adding water back in gives the soup a velvety texture.)

Add the paprika, season generously with salt, and add several turns of pepper. Pulse several more times, then, as the machine is processing, add the olive oil in a slow, steady stream.

Taste the soup and adjust to your taste.

Add a bit more vinegar if not tart enough, or a bit more olive oil if too tart. Try a bit more salt or pepper to help the flavors bloom.

Set a strainer over a deep bowl, pour the soup into it and use a sturdy wooden spoon or pestle to press as much of the liquid through as possible. Discard what is left behind. Cover the soup, and chill thoroughly in the refrigerator.

To serve, pour the chilled soup into small bowls and add a swirl of olive oil to each portion. Top with sliced grapes and toasted almonds and enjoy right away.

Sonoma Beekeeper Dives Into the Fall Season’s Other Crush

October 2024

By Carey Sweet

Candice Koseba, Sonoma County Bee Company owner, checks on the hives. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)

Dry Creek Valley’s sprawling Preston Farm & Winery is an oasis of fruit and flowers beside a meandering, salmon-spawning stream. Visitors often hear a symphony of birds, singing and chattering and fluttering their joy. Yet on this particular warm day, the birds were taking it easy — probably staying cool in the shade of the olive and apple trees. The only sound, to a careful ear, was the meditative hum of thousands of bees, hanging out by the front entrance to their hives.

Bees are smart, says Sonoma County Bee Company owner Candice Koseba. They increase their population rapidly in late spring and forage for nectar and pollen at warp speed while there are lots of things in bloom. That’s in anticipation of chilly winter, when the bees hunker in their hives, dining on the food they’ve stored in their honeycomb from earlier in the year. A spell of scorching heat is good reason for the bees to chillax for a bit.

Such seasonal sensibilities mean the best time for beekeepers to gently harvest honey is in the fall, when the sweet stuff is especially abundant and beekeepers can be sure to leave enough in reserve to help ensure the hive makes it through winter.

Sonoma beekeeper Candice Koseba checks on bee hives — Candice Koseba, Sonoma County Bee Company owner, checks on the hives. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)

Autumn is the only time you’ll find Koseba deep in what she calls her “honey crush.” She will have spent the previous weeks visiting her hives and collecting heavy, fragrant frames of honeycomb. Then she ever-so-carefully brings them into what she calls her “sugar shack,” a tidy cottage workshop at the entrance to Preston Farm.

A honey crush is an uncommon thing, left to boutique (or some might say, obsessive) specialists. Most commercial honey is extracted by placing saturated honeycombs into a centrifuge machine, which spins and removes the honey en masse. In contrast, Koseba works like a masseuse, placing her frame bins atop a strainer tub, then carving out the honeycomb by hand with a 3-inch paring knife. She reaches into the tub with both hands, gently crushing the combs, in a sticky ritual that releases more nutrients.

“When you do it in a spinner, it pulls the honey out — but when you crush by hand, the honey sinks down through all that beautiful comb,” she says. “The wax is covered in pollen, and the comb is laced with propolis, so crushed honey keeps a lot more of all the good things.”

At harvest, Candice Koseba slices the comb from the frames to crush it. The smell of honey can attract bees. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)

Candice Koseba crushes comb to harvest the honey locked within. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)

Bee pollen, which is gathered from plants and stored in the honeycomb along with the honey, is rich in vitamins, minerals, enzymes, amino acids and antioxidants.

Koseba leaves her messy work to let it rest a while, with the amber-hued syrup leisurely dripping into a tap bucket, then does a final pass through a fine strainer.

“When we pour it out, there’s still a lot of wax in it, and there might be bee parts in there, or pieces of wood frame that came from when we were scraping. But this strainer catches all of that,” she says. “Then we bottle it — no heat.”

Regular honey is pasteurized for smoother texture and longer shelf life, but that heat can often destroy some of honey’s healthiest compounds, like the bee pollen and antioxidants, she notes. “Regular” honey can also contain added sweeteners like sugar or corn syrup (though in that case, it must be labeled a blend).

Sonoma beekeeper Candice Koseba strains honey — Candice Koseba strains freshly crushed honey before bottling. The honey is unprocessed and unfiltered. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)

Aficionados can taste the difference. Sonoma County Bee Company honey beckons with a more dynamic but delicate flavor, enchanting with complex notes instead of just sweet through and through.

For all her expertise, every day is a learning experience, Koseba admits. Though she’d trained as an herbalist and chef, she’d never thought much about bees before opening her company in 2019. Back then, she was working with SingleThread owners Kyle and Katina Connaughton as a culinary liaison. She and her husband, chef Aaron Koseba, had first met the Connaughtons after hosting them at a coastal foraging dinner in Carmel-by-the-Sea.

After learning the SingleThread folks wanted to keep bees on the 5-acre Healdsburg farm that feeds their restaurant, Candice Koseba joined the Sonoma County Beekeepers Association and took courses at Santa Rosa Junior College with local bee expert Serge Labesque. Apiarist Rob Keller of Napa Valley Bee Company taught Koseba the theories of sustainable beekeeping, which emphasize strong, locally adapted genetics.

Koseba quickly realized that the happiest bees are Sonoma County’s own wild bees, who are never fed artificial food or antibiotics, evolving to be strong enough to make it on their own. Or, as Keller famously calls them, “bionic bees.”

“They know where the nectar sources are, where the water is, what the weather’s like — they’re adapted, and they’re just better,” Koseba explains.

A sustainable log hive with a removable window that allows Candice Koseba to check on the bees' health without opening the hive entirely. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine) — A sustainable log hive with a removable window to check on the bees’ health without opening the hive entirely. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)

Soon, she began keeping bees at her house near Dry Creek in a heritage-style log hive, which is as it sounds: a hive from a log with a large hole bored through the center for the bees to make their home.

At first, Koseba harvested honey in her kitchen, but she soon needed more space. She thought of the relationship she’d built with Preston Farm owner Lou Preston while working with SingleThread. Preston had an empty workshop — previously used as a “vinegar shack” — and happily rented it to her. She installed 50 hives nearby and started catching local swarms that area people wanted relocated each spring.

She also learned to steel herself for some hives to dwindle down in winter, as nature takes its course.

“It’s just natural that not every colony is going to survive,” she says. “There are so many environmental factors affecting the bees that are out of our control, but I used to really beat myself up and cry when a colony would die out. It’s like getting a pet, except a lot of them.”

Sonoma County Bee Company is still in its nascent stage, with honey sales limited to 3- or 9-ounce, hand-labeled jars.

Labeling jars of honey. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)

There’s no wholesale, because as she explains, “We only harvest honey when there is a surplus, in order to preserve our magnificent honeybee population. When we have honey we have it. When we don’t, we don’t.”

That’s why she waits until October to start her honey crush.

“In August, I’ll start looking at hives, saying, OK, this one looks like we could take soon, this one we have to wait, or this one, no — we can’t take any at all.”

Harvest time is special to Koseba because it’s when she reflects on the partnerships she’s developed with the bees. It’s bonding season with her colonies, in a sense, as she makes the rounds of their hives.

Koseba salutes their labor even after their honey is gently removed, melting the spent wax in a solar heater next to her shack. She handcrafts the wax into gorgeous, honeycomb-patterned candles and honey storage boxes.

“People love that they can serve their honey from the wax cells it came from,” Koseba says.

Candice Koseba checks on hives outside Healdsburg. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)

Now, she is expanding her hives into other areas, to see how they produce. One group that’s doing exceptionally well is in downtown Healdsburg, surrounded by luxurious residential gardens lush with flowers and fruit trees.

“It’s so fun to see my rural bees are the tough nuts, and then my downtown girls are more posh,” she says. “So we can split the bees up for more hives, and keep more of them generating in the areas they like.”

If some people think her raw honey is pricey, Koseba cheerfully shrugs.

“I think honey is an ingredient that needs to be more expensive — like truffles — so people value it more,” she says. “Especially real, raw honey that comes from hives that are treated in the right way. We’re not here to strip their honey, we’re here to celebrate and honor the bees.”

To learn more: Candice Koseba’s annual honey crush happens in October. Her Sonoma County Bee Company offers small-batch raw and creamed wildflower honey, herbal skincare and beeswax home accessories, plus apiary consulting and hive management services.

707-756-6010, sonomacountybeecompany.com

Keller Estate Shines Spotlight on Under-The-Radar Petaluma Gap

October 2024

By Tina Caputo

Keller Estate, a Petaluma Gap winery — The Keller Estate tasting room opens out onto a pretty stone courtyard, a scenic spot for seated tastings with sweeping views of the Petaluma River Valley. (Julep-Productions/Keller Estate)

Dozens of Sonoma County wines sport the Petaluma Gap designation on their labels, yet the appellation isn’t often the first one people think of when they plan a wine tasting excursion.

Sure, the wind-swept appellation grows excellent Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah, and the terrain is beautiful, but there just aren’t a whole lot of wineries in the area. In fact, you can count the number of tasting rooms on a couple of hands and maybe part of one foot.

Keller Estate, set on a lovely property just a few miles from downtown Petaluma, shines a well-deserved spotlight on this under-the-radar region.

The story

Keller Estate is no newbie to Petaluma’s winemaking scene. Founder Arturo Keller was born and raised in Mexico City and created a successful business there producing seats for the auto industry before veering off onto a new path. In the early ‘80s, Keller and his wife, Deborah, purchased a 600-acre property in Petaluma and planted Chardonnay at the site in 1989.

The Kellers sold the grapes to Rombauer Vineyards for many years before making the leap from growers to vintners. In 2000, they hired Mexican architect Ricardo Legorreta to design their namesake winery. Their daughter Ana Keller now runs the family business.

Keller Estate in Petaluma. (Courtesy of Keller Estate) — Keller Estate in Petaluma. Near the entrance, visitors are greeted by a life-size sculpture of the founder, Arturo Keller, behind the wheel of an open-top 1929 Mercedes-Benz. (Courtesy of Keller Estate)

The vibe

The late Arturo Keller’s lifelong love of vintage automobiles is a big part of the winery vibe. Near the entrance, visitors are greeted by a life-size sculpture of the founder behind the wheel of an open-top 1929 Mercedes-Benz. Parked inside the tasting room — a welcoming space with wood beam ceilings, terra-cotta tiles and colorful art — are cars from Keller’s impressive collection, such as the snazzy 1910 Ford Model T currently on display.

The tasting room opens out onto a pretty stone courtyard, a scenic spot for seated tastings with sweeping views of the Petaluma River Valley. Visitors can also book a tasting in the winery’s Collection Room, home to a rotating lineup of vintage cars dating from 1900 to 1960.

On the palate

Keller’s star varieties are estate-grown Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. If, like me, you’re a fan of Chardonnays that are on the leaner side — but not too far on the spectrum — you’ll love the 2021 Oro de Plata ($42). It’s fermented and aged in stainless steel instead of oak, so the bright fruit takes center stage. It has some attractive tropical fruit notes and a brisk acidity that brings it all into balance.

The 2021 La Cruz Chardonnay ($52), fermented and aged in oak barrels, has a similar pineapple thing going on, but the wine has a creamier texture and a richer mouthfeel. Among the Pinots, the 2021 El Coro ($70) is deep and complex, with a ripe black cherry vibe, while the 2019 Rôtie Syrah ($65) shows the softer side of this often-brawny grape. Tastings range from $40 to $85 per person.

Beyond the bottles

Keller is tapping into its Mexican roots Nov. 2 with a Dia de los Muertos Fiesta on the winery plaza ($125 per person). It features a communal altar for displaying photos of departed loved ones, plus traditional dancing, music, wine and street food.

On Thursdays from Nov. 7 through March 27, Keller will host “Loteria Night,” billed as a “bingo night with a Latin flair.” Just $20 gets you into the game with a glass of wine.

Keller Estate, 5875 Lakeville Highway, Petaluma. Open Wednesday to Sunday by reservation. 707-765-2117, kellerestate.com

Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.

Local Inn Listed as One of the Most Haunted Hotels in America

October 2024

By Maci Martell

The Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn and Spa in Sonoma, CA. Photographed by Lisa Romerein.

Historic Hotels of America, a program of the National Trust for Historic Preservation, recently released its list of the top 25 most haunted hotels in the country. One of only three California hotels on the list is Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa, located in Boyes Hot Springs.

“More than mere ghost stories, these enduring legends and folklore contribute to the unique qualities of the inns, resorts and hotels of Historic Hotels of America,” said the program’s executive vice president Lawrence Horwitz in an Oct. 7 press release.

The hotels on the annual list were founded between 1716 to 1941. Most reside on the East Coast, where many infamous events in our nation’s history took place, such as the Salem witch trials. (A Salem, Massachusetts hotel appears on the list — often ranked as one of the most haunted hotels in the U.S.)

Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn haunted hotel — The Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa, a member of Historic Hotels of America since 2014, dates back to 1927. Historic Hotels of America listed the hotel in its list of the top 25 most haunted hotels in the country. (The Press Democrat archives)

The five-star Sonoma property, originally known as the Boyes Hot Springs Hotel, circa 1890s, burned down in a 1923 fire. According to a Historic Hotels timeline of the inn, Fred Partridge and Rudolph Lichtenberg had the resort rebuilt in 1926. They hired architect Joseph L. Stewart for the redesign of the Spanish Revival-style hotel. It reopened a year later and the owners renamed it Sonoma Mission Inn in 1928.

So what makes the hotel haunted? According to Historic Hotels of America, the inn’s tenured employees have testified that, “when the evenings are still and the fog rolls in from the San Francisco Bay, a beautiful woman has been seen strolling the hallways of the inn in period clothing.”

The ghost, known as Victoria, was an early European settler in Sonoma Valley who is said to have celebrated her wedding and anniversaries at the resort. Guests have also supposedly seen the ghost of an older man at the inn, as well as other paranormal phenomenon. Reports include seeing shadowy figures, doors slamming, lights flickering and unexplained noises.

Hotel room at Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn — Mission Spa Suite at Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn and Spa in Sonoma. (Courtesy Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa)

“The hauntingly famous Round Room is perhaps one of the most haunted hotel rooms in California,” said the Historic Hotels of America press release.

A 2020 press release from Fairmont Sonoma stated that a guest was allegedly beheaded in a bathtub in this room by a jealous lover in the 1920s. Since then, the hotel’s guests have reported sighting supernatural activity in the room.

Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn also made it on the “most haunted hotels” list last year. In 2022, Historic Hotels nominated Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn as one of its finalists for Best Historic Hotel. The inn also ranked in Historic Hotels’ 2024 lists for “most literary hotels” and “most romantic hotels” in the nation.

100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma, 707-938-9000, fairmont-sonoma.com

20 of the Best Pasta Dishes in Sonoma County

October 2024

By Heather Irwin

Lobster mac and cheese at Willi’s Wine Bar in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Carb-haters read no further, because this is a gluten and Keto-unfriendly list of pasta, pasta, pasta.

Like most other delicious things, pasta has gotten a bad rap after spending decades as the base of the USDA’s food pyramid, along with bread, cereal and rice. Remember those halcyon days when we didn’t know better? Moderation means that if you’re going to eat pasta, you might as well make it worth every calorie.

Read on below for some top Sonoma County pastas for those cheat days. Click through the above gallery for a sneak peek.

Lasagna Bolognese – Portico, Sebastopol: Crepe-thin layers of pasta with ragu, béchamel sauce and Parmesan cheese. Also available in a vegetarian version. 100 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136, porticosocialfood.com

Pasta Bolognese at Portico in Sebastopol — Pasta Bolognese at Portico restaurant in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Ragu Bolognese with Tagliatelle – Portico, Sebastopol: The praises have been sung. Thick strands of housemade pasta hold onto the chunks of carrots and green pepper, with ground beef and pork taking center stage. Portions are reasonable — neither too much nor too little. 100 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136, porticosocialfood.com

Pappardelle Pasta with Saffron Cream – Portico, Sebastopol: Extra-wide strips of fresh pasta bathed in golden saffron cream are precisely as good as they sound. 100 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136, porticosocialfood.com

Cacio e Pepe – Golden Bear Station, Kenwood: Cacio e pepe is a deceptively tricky dish to master and a bellwether dish for me. Chef Joshua Smookler gets it so right, elevating the pasta with seven different kinds of pepper, giving it a spicy punch that lingers on the tongue. 8445 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, goldenbearstation.com

Short rib agnolotti pasta from Monti's in Santa Rosa — Short rib agnolotti from Monti’s in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy Monti’s)

Short Rib Agnolotti – Monti’s, Santa Rosa: The recently-updated menu now includes freshly-made pasta, including Lemon Tagliatelle with Dungeness crab and buckwheat pasta with mushroom ragout. We’re especially fond of the hearty short rib agnolotti with fresh horseradish. 714 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 707-568-4404, montismv.com

Seasonal Pasta – Diavola, Geyserville: We could rave about spaghettini with pork cheek ragu or linguini with manila clams and uni, but what’s so special about this far-flung trattoria is the always-changing seasonal menu. Just order whatever sounds good — you won’t be disappointed. Chef/owner Dino Bugica is the real deal, and his housemade pasta is consistently one of my favorites in Sonoma County. 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com

Seasonal Pasta – Molti Amici, Healdsburg: Handmade pasta is their calling card, and seasonal changes bring an ever-evolving lineup of ingredients and pasta styles. Ravioli with black truffle and brown butter is a fall favorite, while summer brings bright tomato sauces and pesto. 330 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-756-3169, moltiamici.com

Lasagna from L'oro di Napoli in Santa Rosa — The enormous Lasagna with a Stagionale salad of arugula, roasted butternut squash puree, sliced almonds., topped with pecorino cheese, in an orange mustard and Extra Virgin Olive Oil dressing from L’oro di Napoli in downtown Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Lasagna – L’oro Di Napoli, Santa Rosa: Pizza is their bread and butter, but a mile-high slice of lasagna with Bechemel is a must-try. 629 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-541-6394, lorodinapolisantarosa.com

Steamed Clams with Linguine – Campanella, Sebastopol: You’re Frank Sinatra sitting with “The Godfather” and “Jersey Shore” casts. It doesn’t get more Italian American than this. 7365 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-910-3030, campanellasoco.com

Wild Boar Gnocchi – Risibisi, Petaluma: Housemade gnocchi with braised wild boar is a specialty of this Petaluma restaurant. Risotto is also a favorite. 154 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-766-7600, risibisirestaurant.com

Cucina Paradiso, Petaluma: Ravioli di anatra. — Ravioli di anatra at Cucina Paradiso in Petaluma. (Jeff Kan Lee/The Press Democrat)

Ravioli di Anatra – Cucina Paradiso, Petaluma: Every pasta is a winner at this longtime Petaluma Italian restaurant, but this housemade ravioli is filled with roast duck in sundried tomato, pine nut and basil sauce. 114 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-782-1130, cucinaparadisopetaluma.com

Ricotta Gnudi – Grata, Windsor: Lighter and fluffier than gnocchi, these little clouds of ricotta come with brown butter, butternut squash and greens. Love. 186 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 707-620-0508, gratawindsor.com

Nonni’s Ravioli – Negri’s Italian Dinners, Occidental: House-made ravioli with beef, pork, Swiss chard and herbs has been a family recipe for generations. Simple, but excellent. 3700 Bohemian Highway, Occidental, 707-874-0301, negrisrestaurant.com

Ca'Bianca's Rigatoni pasta — Ca’Bianca’s Rigatoni served with Italian sausage, peas, mushrooms, tomato and cream sauce. (Crista Jeremiason/The Press Democrat)

Rigatoni, Ca’Bianca, Santa Rosa: Simple, but delicious, Ca’Bianca’s rigatoni is served with Italian sausage, peas, mushrooms, tomato and cream sauce. 835 Second St., Santa Rosa, 707-542-5800, cabianca.com

Lasagna – Catelli’s, Geyserville: No question, hands down the thinnest layers of pasta with Richard’s meat sauce and plenty of cheese. A crispy top makes this such a decadent treat. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-3471, mycatellis.com

Seasonal Pasta – Glen Ellen Star, Glen Ellen: What’s on the menu changes frequently depending on season, but it’s always excellent. Spring brings lamb confit with artichokes and favas or rigatoni “cashew e pepe” with trumpet mushrooms and snap peas. 13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-343-1384, glenellenstar.com

Spaghetti alla Bolognese pasta at Baci Cafe & Wine Bar in Healdsburg — Spaghetti alla Bolognese is served at Baci Cafe & Wine Bar in Healdsburg on Wednesday, Nov. 27, 2013. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)

Spaghetti alla Bolognese – Baci Cafe & Wine Bar, Healdsburg: A neighborhood favorite that locals swear by. Fresh pasta is made daily. 336 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-8111, bacicafeandwinebar.com

Spaghetti and Meatballs – Union Hotel, Occidental: Regulars’ favorite. What else is there to say? Mange! 3731 Main St., Occidental, 707-874-3555, unionhoteloccidental.com

Craft Mac and Cheese – Bird and Bottle, Santa Rosa: Yes, just yes. 1055 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-568-4000, birdandthebottle.com

Also great: Lobster mac and cheese at Willi’s Wine Bar in Santa Rosa. 1415 Town and Country Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-526-3096, starkrestaurants.com