The pool area at Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa. (Stephanie Russo / Flamingo Resort)
Wine Country is home to a long list of swanky hotels and resorts. More than simply places to rest your head, many of these properties also have sparkling pools that offer the perfect place to beat the heat and relax. Book a weekend away or a staycation — some of these pools can also be accessed with a day pass.
Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa, Sonoma
Sit back and relax or jump right in. The main pool averages 88 degrees. Day passes are available Monday through Friday and can be booked through the resort or ResortPass.
The geothermal mineral pools at the Willow Stream Spa flow from more than 1,000 feet below the surface. The spa pools and hot tub are open year-round for guests 18 years and older. There is a $69 fee for hotel guests to use the spa facilities. Non-resort guests pay $99–$199. The access fee may be waived when booking a spa treatment, depending on the service selected, time and availability. 100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma, 707-938-9000, fairmont.com/sonoma
The pool at Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa in Sonoma. (Sonoma County Tourism)The pool at The Lodge at Sonoma. (The Lodge at Sonoma)
The Lodge at Sonoma, Sonoma
Enjoy the spirit of summer at the main pool and hot tub. If you are not staying at the hotel, you can purchase a day pass to the pool through ResortPass. 1325 Broadway at Leveroni and Napa Roads, Sonoma, 707-935-6600, lodgeatsonoma.com
MacArthur Place, Sonoma
Surrounded by trees and blooming gardens, this midcentury modern pool offers a quiet spot to soak up some vitamin D or make a splash. Day spa guests, who have booked a 50-minute spa treatment at The Spa at MacArthur, are welcome to use the pool. 29 E. MacArthur St., Sonoma, 707-938-2929, macarthurplace.com
The pool at MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa in Sonoma. (MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa)The pool at Gaige House in Glen Ellen. (Gaige House)
Gaige House, Glen Ellen
The serene setting along Calabazas Creek ensures a relaxing day in the pool or hot tub. Bring that book you’ve been meaning to read for the longest time. 13540 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-935-0237, thegaigehouse.com
Olea Hotel, Glen Ellen
This pool (heated year-round) and hot tub are open 24/7. It is only accessible to hotel guests. 5131 Warm Springs Road, Glen Ellen, 707-996-5131, oleahotel.com
The pool at the Olea Hotel in Glen Ellen. (Sonoma County Tourism)Spa cabanas by the warming pool at Kenwood Inn & Spa. (Kenwood Inn & Spa)
Kenwood Inn & Spa, Kenwood
In addition to the main pool and hot tub, this resort also features an adults-only warming pool. Cabana rentals are available for overnight guests only, with rates from $349 for up to two people. Spa guests who book a massage can add on pool access Monday through Thursday for $50. 10400 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-833-1293, kenwoodinn.com
Flamingo Resort & Spa, Santa Rosa
After a $20 million renovation in 2021, the Flamingo Resort boasts a pool area that’s more popular than ever. Hotel guests receive a wristband at check-in for pool access, and non-hotel guests can purchase day passes for the pool on ResortPass. Day guests are restricted to adults 21 and over; children are only permitted as hotel guests. Pool day passes start at $60. 2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-8530, flamingoresort.com
The pool at Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa. (Stephanie Russo / Flamingo Resort)The new pool area at Vinarosa Resort & Spa in Santa Rosa. (Sonoma County Tourism)
Vinarosa Resort & Spa, Santa Rosa
Formerly Vintners Resort & Spa, Vinarosa has recently unveiled a new outdoor pool area featuring plush daybeds and private cabanas. The spa also boasts an indoor caldarium with a heated soaking pool for guests 18 years and older. If you’re not staying at the hotel, but have an appointment at the spa, you get access to the pool and all spa amenities. Day passes to the pool, as well as daybeds and cabanas, are available on ResortPass. 4350 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa, 707-575-7350, vinarosaresort.com
Farmhouse Inn, Forestville
Named among the best hotels in the country last year, this family-run inn has a lovely pool that’s heated from April to October, depending on the weather. The hot tub is toasty year-round. Only accessible to hotel guests. 7871 River Road, Forestville, 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com
The pool at Farmhouse Inn in Forestville. (Farmhouse Inn)The pool at Stavrand Russian River Valley in Guerneville. (Emma K Creative)
The Stavrand Russian River Valley, Guerneville
A day by the pool and hot tub at The Stavrand comes with views of the property’s awe-inspiring redwoods. 13555 Highway 116, Guerneville, 707-869-9093, thestavrand.com
Boon Hotel & Spa, Guerneville
This saline pool is a popular spot to unwind with a good book or glass of wine. If the pool is not too crowded, day spa guests are permitted to use the pool and hot tub for a maximum of two hours before or after their spa treatment. 14711 Armstrong Woods Road, Guerneville, 707-869-2721, boonhotels.com
Sip on a cocktail or a glass of Sonoma wine from the Honor Bar by the pool at Boon Hotel + Spa in Guerneville. (Boon Hotel + Spa)The pool area at The Madrona in Healdsburg. (Daniel Seung Lee)
The Madrona, Healdsburg
Located in the center of the property, the saltwater pool is flanked by citrus groves and the estate garden. Food and beverage service is available poolside. 1001 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-395-6700, themadronahotel.com
The pool at Montage Healdsburg. (Montage Healdsburg)The pool area at Harmon Guest House in Healdsburg. (Harmon Guest House)
Harmon Guest House, Healdsburg
This solar-heated pool’s creekside location has a peaceful vibe and plenty of shade thanks to surrounding trees. Only accessible to hotel guests. 227 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-922-5449, harmonguesthouse.com
Hotel Healdsburg, Healdsburg
Surrounded by a garden with roses, hydrangea, olive and fig trees, it’s easy to lose a day relaxing by the 60-foot pool and bubbling hot tub. Only accessible to hotel guests. 25 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-431-2800, hotelhealdsburg.com
Pool area at Hotel Healdsburg. (Hotel Healdsburg)The pool at h2hotel in Healdsburg. (Kim Carroll / h2hotel)
H2hotel, Healdsburg
Located steps away from the lobby, this pool is flanked by comfy loungers. Only accessible to hotel guests. 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-2202, h2hotel.com
Hotel Trio, Healdsburg
The pool and neighboring bocce court are located in the center of the hotel property. Outside seating, fire pits and gas barbecue grills make the nearby patio area a favorite spot to enjoy the end of the day. Only accessible to hotel guests. 110 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-4000, hoteltrio.com
The pool at Hotel Trio in Healdsburg. (Hotel Trio)The pool area of the Graton Resort and Casino in Rohnert Park. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Graton Resort & Casino, Rohnert Park
Live DJ entertainment by the pool is available daily along with food and drinks served poolside, which can be enjoyed on a plush daybed (starting at $150) or inside a private cabana (starting at $250). Pool day passes, which include one beverage with purchase, are $55 and are available at the resort’s gift and lobby shops. Must be a guest at the hotel or spa, have a pool day pass, or have daybed/cabana reservations to access the pool. Pool guests must be 21 or older. 288 Golf Course Drive, Rohnert Park, 707-588-7100, gratonresortcasino.com
The pool area at Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville. (Francis Ford Coppola Winery)
Francis Ford Coppola Winery, Geyserville
Although you can’t stay overnight at this winery, its 3,600-square-foot pool still deserves a spot on this list. Swimmers and sunbathers can dry off and play bocce ball, dine at the Pool Café or Rustic restaurant and head inside the winery to visit the tasting room or check out Coppola’s collection of movie memorabilia. Cabine reservations are required. 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707-857-1471, thefamilycoppola.com
Michelle Patino, a Kaiser ER nurse, helped to create a medical clinic at the Petaluma Fairgrounds for fire evacuees. Photo taken at the Petaluma Fairgrounds in Petaluma, on Thursday, November 9, 2017. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat)
On sweltering days, of which there are plenty in these parts, the interior of Mongos Ice House in Montgomery, Texas, stays dark and cool behind big, reflective glass windows. Video gambling machines line the walls, cigarette smoke hovers in the air, and the crowd at this strip-mall dive 50 miles north of Houston leans local but friendly, in a Texas way.
Mounted on a post by the bar is a bell with a handwritten sign: “Ring the bell, buy a round for the house!”
An occasional ebullient video jackpot winner might give the bell’s rope a tug, patrons say, but it didn’t ring often.
That is, until the Californian with the big bank account came to town.
Michelle Patino, founder of a Sonoma County-based company called DEMA Consulting and Management, purchased a condo next to Lake Conroe, one of Montgomery’s chief attractions, in November 2022. She soon developed a reputation as a big spender at the local watering hole.
On the left, Michelle Patino, RN, Owner/CEO of DEMA consulting and management, with Administration Drive site manager Monica Flores at the Sonoma County complex, Thursday, April 13, 2023. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
It became one of the better bets at Mongos that if Patino was there, “that bell was going to ring once or twice a night,” one patron said last fall. He, like two other regulars who shared their recollections for this story, asked to remain anonymous. They didn’t want to be labeled gossips in a small town, and they worried about retribution or harassment from Patino.
“It’s her way of showing off ‘I got money,’ and people congregated to her,” the regular said. “She’s throwing it away.”
Another person who saw Patino’s bar tabs said that each ring of the bell would cost hundreds of dollars, sometimes more than a thousand, depending on the crowd. Patino tipped well, regularly adding $300 to $400 to the already hefty tabs. That person said Patino would buy rounds for the bar as often as once a week over the course of a year and a half. And she paid for other fun too, renting party buses for birthdays or to take a group to the world-famous rodeo in Houston.
It wasn’t all frivolity. At a charity auction to help a local woman with her medical bills, Patino ran up the bids, donating $2,000 for a cowboy hat and as much as $5,000 for two handguns.
Her largesse, according to the three people, also insulated Patino.
When two bartenders sought to ban Patino for aggressive behavior in August 2024, the owner overruled them, inviting her back despite a police restraining order, a copy of which was reviewed for this story.
Ultimately, the two bartenders, one a Mongos fixture for years, quit rather than deal with Patino, according to the three bar patrons.
The managed encampment run by DEMA at the county administrative campus in front of Permit Sonoma along Administration Drive in Santa Rosa, Wednesday June 28, 2023. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Before all that, Patino was leading a startup homeless services company with a lucrative no-bid contract in Sonoma County and had expanded its operations into Harris County, Texas, after Sonoma County’s former health director had taken over the top health services job there.
The former emergency room nurse started her company in the first months of the Covid-19 pandemic, hoping to aid local governments responding to disasters. The name DEMA reflects its mission: Disaster Emergency Medical Assistance. Two years ago this summer, The Press Democrat — now part of Media News Group, also the parent company of Sonoma magazine — published the first installment of a wide-ranging investigation into Patino and her company. Initially discounted by some county officials, that investigation triggered a probe that led to the discovery that $11 million or more in public money wasn’t properly accounted for.
Additionally, The Press Democrat identified two cases in which Patino’s relationships with county officials pushed ethical boundaries.
In one, Patino briefly hired the daughter of Tina Rivera, the then-Sonoma County Health Services director who oversaw DEMA’s contract. Patino said she paid Rivera’s daughter only about $600 during that short-lived work stint. But Rivera did not inform county officials of her daughter’s employment by DEMA, county administrator Christina Rivera, who is not related to Tina Rivera, told The Press Democrat.
In the other, Patino extended a consulting offer to the husband of Barbie Robinson, the former Sonoma County Health director who helped propel DEMA’s rise before moving to Texas and overseeing DEMA’s government work there. That instance, documented as part of a criminal case against Robinson in Texas that has since been dropped, came on top of previous reports that she had offered a consulting contract to Robinson.
In a September 2021 email to Robinson, obtained by the Houston Chronicle, Patino expressed frustration that she had been blocked from a contract to provide meals at Sonoma County homeless services sites DEMA had been managing. County officials told her DEMA’s proposal represented a conflict of interest. “I can guarantee we came in cheaper with more benefits with our bid,” she wrote to Robinson.
In other emails, Patino suggested hiring Robinson as a consultant for help with “legal issues we may have in California.” The offer came as DEMA was competing for a major contract to run a crisis response program in Harris County. Robinson sat on the selection committee, and that contract later became a focus of the now-ended criminal investigation in Texas.
The home of DEMA CEO Michelle Patino with two DEMA vans parked in the driveway Thursday, Feb. 13, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
In California, Patino has faced scrutiny from law enforcement, along with civil lawsuits filed by former employees.
FBI agents in February descended on her Santa Rosa home with a search warrant — part of a federal investigation about which little is known. No criminal charges related to DEMA have been filed.
Separately, Patino faces misdemeanor charges in Sonoma County after repeatedly violating a restraining order obtained by her estranged domestic partner and former business partner, Mica Pangborn.
In an interview with The Press Democrat late last year, Patino sought to blame the company’s accounting shortcomings on her ex, saying it was Pangborn that handled the company’s billing. But Pangborn has alleged in court it was Patino who controlled the company’s money. And in an acrimonious divorce proceeding, Pangborn has repeatedly sought spousal support from Patino.
Patino concedes she might have made mistakes as a novice government contractor. But she has repeatedly denied any wrongdoing regarding DEMA’s work. “I didn’t know all the rules, I didn’t know everything, but I also know that there’s ethical things and there’s morals and you don’t cross the line. I didn’t cross those lines,” she said late last year. “I’m a person of honesty and integrity. I don’t lie, cheat, or steal.”
In emails and remarks to the Sonoma County Board of Supervisors, Patino held herself up as a hero of the pandemic.
“This company [DEMA] fell in my lap, literally, and I was completely unprepared and had no idea what it all entailed except I knew how to save lives,” she wrote to county auditor Erick Roeser and other officials. “Did you actually think I was occupied with anything else? No. Too many people were dying (in the pandemic). I did not have a business plan and sought the county’s direction and advice on all matters.”
Indeed, Patino didn’t operate in a vacuum. Sonoma County officials pushed $27 million to Patino’s company, well above other homeless service provider contracts, with county auditor Roeser confirming flawed oversight over those funds.
Sonoma County officials have yet to publicly account for what went wrong. Nor have the county supervisors announced any internal inquiries beyond the limited financial investigation that uncovered $11 million in billing unsupported by records.
Tina Rivera, who directed the Sonoma County health department for much of DEMA’s tenure after inheriting oversight of the company from Barbie Robinson, resigned in August, saying she wanted to spend more time with her family.
Tina Rivera, Sonoma County’s Health Services director, in Santa Rosa, Friday, Feb. 18, 2022. Rivera notified the Board of Supervisors and top administrators last June that she was resigning. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)Barbie Robinson, (second from right) the former director of Sonoma County’s Department of Health Services, shown in a file photo outside the Sonoma County administration building in Santa Rosa on Sunday, March 15, 2020, at the start of the pandemic. Robinson stepped down from the job in May 2021 to take a job leading the health department in Harris County, Texas. She was fired from that job, Harris County’s top administrator announced Aug. 30, 2024. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Robinson was fired by Harris County a week after Rivera’s last day in California. Her dismissal came amid an investigation by former Harris County top prosecutor Kim Ogg, whose office filed its criminal case against Robinson during Ogg’s last months in office. Ogg, who lost her reelection bid in November, had often been at odds with Democratic Harris County commissioners, and her charges against Robinson added to other corruption cases she’d brought against government officials tied to Harris County Democrats.
Ogg’s successor, Sean Teare, dropped all the charges against Robinson in May, saying there wasn’t sufficient evidence to support the allegations of bid-rigging and corruption — including a lack of evidence that Robinson or her husband accepted any money from Patino.
In a statement announcing his decision, Teare suggested the case had been politically motivated. In response, Ogg suggested Teare dropped the cases to protect the county commissioners.
“Ms. Robinson is thankful that the truth has come to light and that this politically driven case is finally behind her,” Robinson’s attorney told Houston Public Media.
While the Texas case is over, the activity in February at Patino’s Santa Rosa house indicates continued interest from law enforcement here. FBI officials have declined to comment on the scope or thrust of their investigation in Northern California, which began in partnership with Santa Rosa police.
The vast majority of the money Sonoma County paid DEMA was to be reimbursed by the federal government through pandemic response funds. Under President Joe Biden’s administration, the U.S. Department of Justice criminally charged more than 3,500 people and seized more than $1.4 billion in assets as it chased down fraud across the spectrum of unprecedented government spending during the pandemic. It’s unclear what impact the Trump administration, which has brought significant changes to both the FBI and Federal Emergency Management Agency — the body county officials hoped would ultimately reimburse Sonoma County taxpayers for DEMA’s bills — could have on the situation.
Michelle Patino, a Kaiser Permanente ER nurse, helped to create a medical clinic at the Petaluma Fairgrounds for fire evacuees. Photo taken at the Petaluma Fairgrounds in Petaluma, on Thursday, Nov. 9, 2017. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Like so much of Sonoma County’s recent history, DEMA’s roots trace back to the fateful and deadly North Bay firestorms in 2017.
Back then, before the investigations and resignations, and before the bar tabs and luxury cars and new homes, Patino was an emergency room nurse and a hero.
She had only recently moved to the county from San Jose and was working in Kaiser Permanente’s Santa Rosa emergency room. Patino wasn’t on shift at the hospital during its dramatic evacuation in the early morning hours as the Tubbs Fire bore down on the facility. But waking up and learning the hospital was closed, she looked for a way to chip in. She and Pangborn were renting a home next to the Petaluma Fairgrounds at the time. The couple had just moved in together, Patino recounted in an August 2023 Press Democrat interview, and had duplicates of household items like pillows and blankets. They gathered bedding and brought it to an evacuation center coming together at the fairgrounds.
When they arrived, Patino found refugees who had fled their homes — many were elderly and had left without critical medications. They needed help. “I started going around talking to every single individual, getting all their medical history,” she recalled. She returned every day for weeks, bringing in other nurses and paramedics, and organized them into a health clinic with 30 beds. She worked 12- to 16-hour days, for days on end, she said.
“I’m one of those people that I just can go,” she said. “You get in those situations … I’m an adrenaline junkie, that’s why I work in the ER and those high [intensity] areas, and I just go, go, go, go.”
Two years later, she did the same thing during the Kincade Fire, she said. This time she responded to a call from a doctor who, according to Patino, told her, “Get over here … they don’t know what’s going on. We need to get this place up and going or people are going to die.”
Those experiences sparked the idea for DEMA.
In spring 2020, as public health officials scrambled to give people without stable housing infected with Covid-19 a place to ride out the virus, Petaluma Health Center enlisted Patino, this time at a county-run shelter at Sonoma State University.
Patino and Pangborn had filed paperwork to start DEMA as a nonprofit but didn’t complete the process. Soon after Patino started at the SSU site, Petaluma Health Center’s leadership decided it could not continue to run it.
Rivera and Robinson each point to the other as the first to bring DEMA on. Whatever the path, Patino stepped into the void. Rushing to get contracted and get to work, according to Patino, they registered DEMA as a sole proprietorship in her name, records show. The business designation gave Patino direct control over the company and, unlike with a nonprofit, limited public insight into revenue and expenses.
Registered nurse Lilly Briggs, right, administers the Moderna COVID-19 vaccine to Sabrina Nesbit at the DEMA, Disaster Emergency Medical Assistance, vaccination clinic, at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds in Santa Rosa on Monday, Feb. 22, 2021. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Soon, health officials were giving DEMA more and more control over the SSU site and putting other homeless care sites under their supervision.
“I’m one of those people, I don’t say no,” Patino said.
DEMA boomed. By December 2021, Patino had signed a contract with Rivera for up to $21 million, and DEMA would continue to receive expansions on those contracts for the next three years. Because of emergency orders issued during the pandemic, those contracts were issued and extended without competitive bidding, even after the company came under scrutiny.
Internal emails from the first months of the company obtained by The Press Democrat show Patino riding the rush of the company’s explosive growth.
“I am absolutely the luckiest girl in the world,” Patino wrote, closing out an email to her staff in October 2020. “I have an amazing wife, family, career, and now I have an amazing team that impresses and amazes me in every way every day … We are a unique set of professionals, with hearts of gold, and an abundance of varying skill sets. That makes you, that makes Team DEMA, one hell of a force to be reckoned with.”
Patino paid her employees well, according to nearly two dozen people who have spoken to The Press Democrat over the past two years. The high salaries made up for a work environment that was often chaotic, as Patino’s leadership alternated between charming and erratic, according to people who interacted closely with her.
Two former employees, one in California and one in Texas, sued the company over a workplace culture they described as discriminatory or toxic, and nearly all the former employees who spoke to The Press Democrat said they feared retaliation from Patino both during and after their time with the company. Pangborn, who was chief financial officer for DEMA, would ultimately accuse Patino of sustained domestic abuse over years of their relationship. In March 2024, Patino fired her partner days before Pangborn obtained a temporary restraining order from a judge, which has since been made permanent.
Patino spent the first year of the company’s life “saying she never took a paycheck for herself,” said a longtime DEMA employee who asked not to be named because he, like others, fears retaliation or harassment from Patino. But as time went on, he said, she began “boast(ing) about how much money she was making.”
Around the time of the fires, public records show both Patino and Pangborn faced financial difficulties. At least two banks were pursuing judgments against Patino in 2018, according to court records, and the IRS had tax liens on her and Pangborn that stretched into the tens of thousands of dollars.
DEMA quickly reversed their fortunes. According to public records, Patino and Pangborn bought a $628,000 house in Santa Rosa in June 2021, and purchased the Texas condo the following fall. In both cases, the public record holds no indication of a mortgage, implying a cash purchase. There are other signs of significant wealth from their company. DEMA purchased a warehouse in downtown Houston later in 2022, appraised at just under $300,000. Again, there is no public record of a mortgage, and the deed implies a cash purchase.
The couple’s divorce records indicate they also owned a 2023 Toyota 4Runner, a second, older model 4Runner, and a 2018 BMW. Then there’s the $50,000 camper purchased in June 2023 and the 2024 BMW coupe, valued by the California DMV at around $77,000, that Patino registered in April of that year. That last purchase sparked outrage among some of her Sonoma County employees, because it came as the company was collapsing and they had gone weeks without pay.
As the pandemic wore on, Patino sought to move beyond health care, as she put it, and began seeking other contracts involved in the shelter effort. Records and interviews show she tried to shift contracts for both food service and security from other vendors to DEMA.
A DEMA vehicle sits in the parking lot on the west side of the emergency shelter site at 400 Administration Drive in Santa Rosa, Thursday, May 23, 2024. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Despite the county auditor’s findings on DEMA’s flawed accounting practices early last year, Sonoma County supervisors never ordered a deeper investigation.
Supervisor David Rabbitt, the board’s chairman at that time, instead publicly called on the federal government to figure out whether any taxpayer dollars had been wasted in Sonoma County.
About eight months later, in December, Harris County commissioners voted to sever their ties to the company, ending its last remaining contract in January.
Patino remains in Texas, according to people familiar with her whereabouts. In a March filing, Patino’s Sonoma County lawyer asked to be removed as her counsel in a suit brought by a former DEMA paramedic against Patino and other DEMA officials over allegations of harassment and wrongful termination. The attorney told the judge Patino “has withdrawn to Texas” and stopped communicating with him and his firm. The judge granted his request. The case is currently set for trial in August.
Among Patino’s many troubles in the wake of DEMA is one that hits hard.
The California Board of Registered Nursing in October ordered her to undergo an examination of her mental and physical health after finding there was “reasonable cause to believe that (Patino) was unable to practice nursing with reasonable skill and safety to patients.”
That finding came in response to a complaint that is not public record, according to a board spokesperson.
But the regulator’s website indicates Patino never replied. In January, the board revoked the license she had held since 2001.
The license that enabled her to save lives.
The license that made her a hero.
Read The Press Democrat’s full investigation of the Sonoma County DEMA scandal here.
Carol Anello’s clam chowder at the Spud Point Crab Company in Bodega Bay. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Discover the hidden treasures of Bodega Bay. From stunning beaches to delicious seafood, this coastal destination has something for everyone.
Find more gems in the charming town of Bodega Bay here.
On the way
While heading to the coast, make a pit stop in Valley Ford for coffee (or a tasty breakfast burrito) at the Estero Cafe. And for the road, grab a brown paper bag of the homemade teriyaki beef jerky next door at the Valley Ford Market — it’s kind of famous in these parts.
Cinnamon French toast made from Village Bakery brioche topped with butter, fresh whipped cream, organic raspberries and real maple syrup with sparkling wine and a cappuccino at Estero Cafe in Valley Ford. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)Potter Schoolhouse in Bodega Bay. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Approaching Bodega Bay from the south on Highway 1, turn right on Bodega Highway to visit the charming town of Bodega, where you can see the Saint Teresa of Avila Church and the Potter Schoolhouse (now a private residence) — both featured in Alfred Hitchcock’s 1963 horror film “The Birds.” And don’t miss screenings of “The Birds” in October during the annual Hitchcock Film Festival at the Grange Hall.
Take in the sights
Coming out of a steep ravine as you roll into Bodega Bay, turn left on Doran Beach Road and wind down to the 2-mile spit that stretches into Doran Beach at Doran Regional Park ($8 fee). It’s a great place to picnic, explore the beach, and watch surfers and fishing boats come and go through the harbor.
Mikos leaps into the air to catch a ball tossed by Ingrid Stearns on the beach at Doran Regional Park in Bodega Bay. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)Wines from Sonoma Coast Vineyards in Bodega Bay. (Sonoma Coast Vineyards)
Back on Highway 1, as you enter town, Sonoma Coast Vineyards (limited production Pinot and Chardonnay) is on the left. On a sunny day, the back patio is a cheese-plate picnic perch for watching snowy egrets that like to roost in trees along the eastern edge of the bay.
Less than a half-mile down on the left is the Tides Wharf and Restaurant, where Tippi Hedren, in a long fur coat no less, rented a skiff in Alfred Hitchcock’s 1963 horror film “The Birds.” It’s a tourist trap today, but still a fun spot from which to watch workers unload fresh salmon filets at the wharf. And if you barely poke your head in the front door, you can see a massive set of shark jaws on the wall and a photo showing the more than 17-foot great white shark caught near Bodega Bay in 1984.
Best bay bites
Dungeness Crab Cake with orange segments, avocado, mixed lettuces and remoulade sauce from Terrapin Creek Cafe Restaurant Friday, May 30, 2025, in Bodega Bay. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Back on the main drag, blow past the saltwater taffy shops and windsock peddlers, and turn left on Eastshore Road where Terrapin Creek is tucked away in a row of shops like a secret culinary hideaway. Owners Andrew Truong and Liya Lin serve up a briny seasonal menu of scallops, Marin miyagi oysters, Monterey sardines, charred octopus salad and pan-roasted sea bass, all freshly sourced from the sea.
Down the way, past abandoned boats with names like Jezebel and Deliverance, Eastshore Road dead-ends at Porto Bodega Marina where Gourmet Au Bay and Ginochio’s Kitchen sit side-by-side, topped with low-slung roofs like twin trailer-park mobile homes or converted storage containers. Don’t be afraid, Gourmet Au Bay boasts an eclectic wine cellar and owner Brian Roth invented (and trademarked) “wine surfing” — so when you order a flight, it arrives on a mini surfboard. And Ginochio’s breakfast hash is loaded with 14-hour slow-cooked Texas brisket.
Liz Martin, left, and Bonnie King enjoy a bottle of wine at Gourmet Au Bay in Bodega Bay on Thursday, May 9, 2024. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)Carol Anello’s clam chowder at Spud Point Crab Company in Bodega Bay. (John Burgess / Press Democrat)
From Eastshore, take Bay Flat Road west as it turns into Westshore Road and you’ll smell the steaming pots in front of Spud Point Crab Company across from Spud Point Marina. Carol and Tony Anello’s fish shack is home to a renowned clam chowder that has won the annual Chowder Day in Bodega Bay contest more than any other competitor.
Coastal education
Further down the road on the right, the UC Davis Bodega Marine Laboratory offers public tours. The first story docent Roger Patton likes to tell is how PG&E once tried to build a nuclear plant in the 1960s at nearby Bodega Head. After that, you get to check out the aquariums, walk outside and see Horseshoe Cove, and touch purple urchins in model tide pools.
Visitors take in the scenery overlooking the Bodega Marine Reserve during a docent-led tour at UC Davis-Bodega Marine Laboratory in Bodega Bay. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)Bodega Head in Sonoma Coast State Park. (Mariah Harkey/Sonoma County Tourism)
At the end of Westshore Road is the climb to Bodega Head, a windblown, dead-end vista overlooking the majestic, white-capped Pacific. A popular spot for tourists, it’s a great excuse for a hike and one of the best whale watching vistas along the coast. In March and April, docents from Stewards of the Redwoods are stationed along the cliffs to help spot mothers and their young calves migrating from Mexico back to Alaska.
Also in Bodega Bay
Pinnacle Gulch Trail: This is one of the best hikes to a secluded beach in all of Sonoma County and totally unknown to most visitors. Just before rolling into Bodega Bay, turn left on South Harbor Way, then make a quick left on Heron Drive. Cruise through the Bodega Harbour subdivision, past “Golf Cart Crossing” signs. Turn left on Mockingbird Lane and a few hundred feet on your left is the Pinnacle Gulch parking lot. From there, hike about a mile down a ravine to a beautiful beach sanctuary. Check tide charts before you go. At low tide, hike south down the beach to pick up Shorttail Gulch trail and make it a 2-mile loop back to your car.
Salmon Creek Beach: One of the best places to watch surfers around Bodega Bay is at Salmon Creek State Beach, along Highway 1 north of town. The parking lot at the end of Bean Avenue (on your right off Highway 1) often fills up on busy days. About a quarter mile up the road, you can park in another lot along the bluffs overlooking the ocean, and take the stairs down to the beach and lagoon where tiny Salmon Creek trickles into the Pacific.
The Molcajete at Ah Huevo! in Santa Rosa Plaza on Monday, July 14, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Though Mondays are notoriously slow days for restaurants, the lunch rush starts early at Ah Huevo! in Santa Rosa. By noon, there’s already a wait for tables and the kitchen is firing on all burners with orders of pancakes, chilaquiles, waffles and the steaming breakfast molcajete flying through the pass-through. In less than 10 days since opening, local social media influencers already made the wildly Instagrammable café a hit.
The name Ah Huevo! is a play on ahuevo, a slang way of saying “Hell Yeah!” or strong agreement in Spanish. Huevos are the Spanish word for eggs, among other things. Suffice it to say all puns are represented.
This is the third Ah Huevo! restaurant — with two more in the works — for owner Jose Lemus, a former machine shop operator. His mother’s recipes were the basis for the original menu of posole, menudo and barbacoa.
The Molcajete at Ah Huevo! in Santa Rosa Plaza on Monday, July 14, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)The Mega Sunrise mimosa at Ah Huevo! in Santa Rosa Plaza on Monday, July 14, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
That later expanded to include a laundry list of American and Latin-inspired breakfast dishes, including 12 kinds of chilaquiles, Benedicts, scrambles, French toast, Belgian waffles, crepes, and a morning molcajete with red and green chilaquiles, steak, sausage, bacon, eggs and sour cream.
At 2 p.m. the menu switches to an equally outlandish choice of dinner entrees with tacos, burgers, asada fries, Mexican-style fried sushi rolls and a whole red snapper.
The real showstoppers, however, are mimosas. Yes, you can have a single glass or a flight, but sipping a 3-liter Royal ($59.99) in a 15-inch tall wine glass with bendy straws broadcasts the kind of week you’ve had — or weekend you’re about to have.
Open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Monday; closed Tuesday. 1016 Santa Rosa Plaza, Santa Rosa, Instagram.com/ah.huevo.oficial
Fried Chicken Sandwich with spicy pickled slaw, jalapeños, ranch, hot sauce and fries from The Burrow Wednesday, July 9, 2025 just off the square in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / Press Democrat)
Bringing kids to a white-napkin restaurant is like hosting a tea party in a tornado. No one’s having fun when chicken nuggets are flying, a wine glass just swan-dived off the table and your 3-year-old is screaming for her lost stuffed animal.
Chef David Baeli and his wife, Elise, feel your pain. With a youngster of their own, the couple have created a restaurant they tried, but failed to find. The Burrow in downtown Healdsburg offers a chef-driven menu for parents, a kid-tested menu for the little ones and a kitted-out play area with toys and books to keep the peace — or at least peace of mind for everyone.
The small café, located at the former Wurst restaurant, is off to a solid start after its June debut. On a recent weekend, the patio was filled with enthusiastic children eating chicken fingers, mac and cheese and burgers. Parents didn’t seem fazed when a stray scream or fussy baby interrupted the stink eye-free zone.
Plenty of patio seating at The Burrow Wednesday, July 9, 2025, just off the square in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)The family-friendly Burrow has a play area for the kids outside the front door. Photo taken Wednesday, July 9, 2025, just off the square in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Baeli co-owned Hops and Hominy in San Francisco, known for its Southern-style cuisine (now closed). The couple moved north to Elise’s hometown for a more family-centered life with their 3-year-old son (the chief taste-tester for the kids menu).
Baeli’s opening menu features chips and smoked salmon dip with crème fraîche ($9), duck fat potatoes with garlic aioli ($14), peach and burrata salad ($18), a juicy grass-fed smashburger ($19) and upscale grilled salmon with coconut rice ($24) or flat iron steak ($28) — affordable by Healdsburg standards. The brunch menu includes eggs with polenta ($18), chicken and waffles ($16) and a breakfast sandwich ($17).
The children’s menu has a burger, grilled chicken or salmon, chicken tenders (all $14), mac and cheese ($12) and the ever-popular buttered noodles ($10).
Family-friendly food at a reasonable price from The Burrow Wednesday, July 9, 2025, just off the square in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Ice Cream Sandwich with flourless fudge cookies and vanilla gelato. Plus, an Almond Flour Cake with market strawberries and Chantilly cream from The Burrow. Photo taken Wednesday, July 9, 2025, just off the square in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Ice cream floats ($8), cake ($9) and an ice cream sandwich ($8) are excellent bribes for good table manners. An ever-changing beer lineup from independent breweries and a brief wine list keep adults happy.
The kitchen is still evolving, and not every dish on my first visit was a home run, but the same could be said for the constant compromises of parenting. Somehow it always works out in the end, and I’m confident this cozy café will make us all proud.
Open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Friday; 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday; and 10 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Sunday. 22 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-955-0132, theburrowhb.com
Noble Folk Ice Cream and Pie Bar, with locations in Santa Rosa and Healdsburg, is worth a special trip. (Noble Folk)
As the sizzling season continues with meltingly hot days and everlasting nights, thoughts turn to ice cream and its cousins — gelato and sorbet — to cool things down.
From classic soft serve spots to trendy new scoop joints and a couple fro-yo faves just for fun. Have a favorite we missed? Email us!
Salt & Straw, Santa Rosa
The Portland, Oregon-based ice cream company is known for its fearless flavor combinations — think pear and blue cheese; Arbequina olive oil; strawberry honey balsamic with black pepper; or goat cheese with marionberries and habanero. Many lean more toward what you might expect on a restaurant menu than at a typical ice cream shop. Even their most popular flavors have twists, like the vegan coconut mint chip, sea salt with caramel ribbons or fudgy brownie batter chocolate ice cream. If you’re an absolute purist, go for the double fold vanilla with gobs of vanilla bean. Gluten-free and dairy-free options abound. Watch for the Monthly Menu Series, a lineup of seasonal flavors only available for a few weeks. 700 Village Court at Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa, 707-360-6349, saltandstraw.com
Salt & Straw’s collab with Russian River Brewery. Salt & Straw recently opened in Santa Rosa’s Montgomery Village. (Salt & Straw)A Rainbow Signature Roll topped with candy and Fruity Pebbles at Pink Sugar Creamery in Santa Rosa Tuesday, May 20, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Pink Sugar, Santa Rosa
Furry pink swings, a wall of shimmering pink mermaid scales, retro-style pink pay phones and pink velvet barstools make for an oh-so-Instagrammable moment at Pink Sugar, Santa Rosa’s first Thai rolled ice cream shop. Here’s how it works: Straus organic ice cream mix is poured onto chilled steel plates that almost instantly freeze it. Dual spatulas then chop, pulverize and blend in candy, cookies, fruit or cake before the mixture is spread into a thin layer and scraped into tight, frozen curls. Favorite options include the Brookie, made with the standard vanilla base, fudge brownies, cookie dough and hot fudge; Cinnamon Toast Crunch with cinnamon toast cereal and caramel; or Banana Pudding with fresh bananas, caramel sauce and Nilla Wafers. 1224 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. 707-368-3200, Instagram.com/pinksugarcreamery
Darling Ice Cream Shop, Sonoma
The always-changing flavors at this charming Sonoma ice cream shop mean you’ll have plenty of reasons to return. A sister location to Sweet Scoops on the Sonoma Plaza, this neighborhood fave is known for its Watmaugh strawberry, salted caramel and, if you want to go the soft-serve route, a sunny Pineapple Dole Whip. 201 W. Napa St., Suite 6, Sonoma. 707-343-1482, darlingsonoma.com
Mila, 9, and her brother Caden, 10, enjoy an ice cream cone at their parents, Joe and Ramie Hencmannís ice cream shop, Darling. Located in the Sonoma Marketplace shopping center on West Napa Street in Sonoma. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)Ice cream cone from Noble Folk, with locations in Santa Rosa and Healdsburg. (Noble Folk)
Noble Folk Ice Cream and Pie Bar, Santa Rosa and Healdsburg
This ice cream shop is worth a special trip. Unique flavors include passionfruit, Thai tea, salted caramel and Dutch cookie, each inspired by local produce and the seasons. The menu changes frequently. 539 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-978-3392; 116 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-395-4426, thenoblefolk.com
Nimble and Finn’s, Santa Rosa and Guerneville
Cheeky by-the-scoop flavors include Front Porch Mint Chip (the mint is from one of the owner’s front porch), Meyer Lemon, Lavender Honeycomb and Whiskey Butterscotch. Add booze and you’ve got a sassy little float. We love the Permanent Holiday with creamy Meyer lemon ice cream, Lo Fi sweet vermouth and Goat Rock rosé cider, or the summery Strawberry Letter with strawberry sorbet, vermouth, elderflower and Champagne. 16290 Main St., Guerneville, 707-666-9411; 123 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-666-9590, nimbleandfinns.com
Lavender honeycomb ice cream at Nimble & Finn’s Ice Cream in Guerneville. (Nimble & Finn’s)Sweet Scoops serves housemade ice cream and waffle cones in Sonoma. (Karen Kizer)
Sweet Scoops, Sonoma
Sonomans go wild for this housemade ice cream spot on the square, which always has 22 flavors, from simple vanilla to lemon custard and Mexican chocolate. Ice cream flavors rotate regularly; check the website for current flavors. 408 First St. East, Sonoma, 707-721-1187, sweetscoopsicecream.com
Fosters Freeze, Santa Rosa
This old school burger and ice cream spot is all about the memories. Maybe because you’ve walked there, or your mom and dad took you in the family wagon, or it’s just Tuesday. 1400 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-576-7028; 855 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, 707-542-3212, fostersfreeze.com
Handline was built on the site of the old Foster’s Freeze in Sebastopol and they continue to keep soft serve ice cream on the menu. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Handline, Sebastopol
This restaurant in Sebastopol was built on the site of an old Foster’s Freeze and they continue to keep soft serve ice cream on the menu. 935 Gravenstein Ave. South, Sebastopol, 707-827-3744, handline.com
Menchie’s Frozen Yogurt, Santa Rosa
The ultimate kid spot with half a dozen flavors like crème brûlée, mudslide pie, white chocolate raspberry and Dole Whip pineapple sorbet. 2188 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-545-9866, menchies.com
Dave’s Gourmet Ice Cream, Santa Rosa
This local artisan producer uses premium organic milk, organic cream and liquid nitrogen (!) to make their ice cream. At a cool 321° below zero, the liquid nitrogen keeps fat and water molecules small, making for a creamier ice cream. 320 W. Third St. Suite A, Santa Rosa, 707-978-2635, dgicecream.com
A variety of ice cream, or glacée, from Goguette Bread in Santa Rosa. (Goguette Bread)
Goguette Bread, Santa Rosa
While known for their mélange of breads and pastries, Goguette also churns out delightful, French-style ice cream, or glacée. Using locally sourced or imported (from France and Italy) ingredients, find flavors like pear, lemon, chocolate orange, Madagascar vanilla and more. The bakery now also sells ice cream cakes, with such flavors as vanilla, strawberry, pistachio and matcha. 59 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, goguettebread.com
Screamin’ Mimi’s, Sebastopol
It’s no surprise that Food & Wine magazine has named this Sebastopol ice cream spot one of the best in America. There’s always a line, there are always kids with messy chocolate grins, and there’s always a new flavor to try. When it comes to rich dark chocolate, there’s always Mimi’s Mud or Deep Dark Secret. 6902 Sebastopol. Ave., Sebastopol, 707-823-5902, screaminmimisicecream.com
Two Dog Night Creamery, Sebastopol
Formerly SubZero, this Sebastopol spot at the Barlow calls itself “farm to cone,” using organic local ingredients and natural flavors for soft, gelato-style ice cream. Seasonal flavors like Summer Yuzu are a treat, while classic scoops, including Bananas Foster Crunch and Coffee Heath Bar, always satisfy. One of the few places you can still get a banana split! 6760 McKinley St., Suite 110, Sebastopol, 707-823-9376, twodognightcreamery.com
Lavender Angela’s Organic ice cream is served in a sugar cone at Iggy’s Organic Burgers on the plaza, Friday in Downtown Healdsburg June 30, 2023. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Angela’s Ice Cream, Petaluma, Forestville and Healdsburg
Formerly known as Lala’s Creamery, this spot looks like the soda fountains of old, with a marble-topped bar and brick walls, but in addition to the traditional confections and banana splits, it serves up unique flavors. If you want to pair burgers with your ice cream, head on over to the Healdsburg location, home to Iggy’s Organic Burgers. 134 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-774-6567; 1390 N. McDowell Blvd. East, Petaluma, 707-981-6910; 6671 Front St., Forestville, 707-820-1559; 109 Plaza St., Healdsburg, 707-473-8636. angelasicecream.com
Petaluma Creamery, Petaluma
This historic creamery still makes house-made ice cream along with Spring Hill cheese. Most popular is the lavender ice cream, but Meyer lemon is also a contender. 711 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-762-9038, springhillcheese.com
Once Upon A Slush, Petaluma
Taking over the former Amy’s Wicked Slush location in Petaluma’s American Alley in 2022, Once Upon A Slush has won over slush fans with its assortment of shakes, slushies, floats and soft serve. There are childhood favorite flavors such as the blue raspberry slush and chocolate vanilla swirl soft serve, as well as seasonal summer flavors like black cherry, sour watermelon and cotton candy. 122b American Alley, Petaluma, 707-763-9253, onceuponaslush.com
Toasted coconut dipped soft serve at Once Upon a Slush in downtown Petaluma. (Houston Porter/For the Argus-Courier)Cielito store manager Stephanie Ramirez dishes out a scoop of mint chocolate chip at the ice cream shop in the Valietti shopping center in Boyes Hot Springs. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
Cielito Coffee and Ice Cream, Sonoma
This coffee and ice cream shop in the Vailetti Plaza shopping center on Highway 12 serves a wide variety of coffee beverages, milkshakes and ice cream. 205 Nino Marco Square, Sonoma, 707-343-7330, instagram.com/cielito_coffee_and_icecream
La Michoacana, Sonoma
You can’t miss this ice cream spot’s bright pink and orange exterior. It’s best known for fruit paletas, or frozen ice pops. Try their Mangonada: blended fresh mango with ice, swirled chamoy sauce, topped with mango chunks and tamarind candy, and a tamarind stick. 18495 Highway 12, Sonoma, 707-938-1773, michoacana.com
Fru-Ta, Santa Rosa and Petaluma
All natural flavors, both traditional and unconventional. Among the more unique are rose petal, guava, cheese, membrillo, chongo zamorano and mamey. Four locations in Santa Rosa and Petaluma, frutaicecream.com
A selection of hand-made ice cream and popsicles from Frozen Art in Roseland using traditional recipes from the owners’ hometown, Tocumbo, Mexico. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Frozen Art, Santa Rosa
The Alcazars have been making Michoacana-style ice creams since 2011, originally as La Real Michoacana, and they continue to expand their lineup of 40 plus flavors. It now includes merlot chocolate chip, Kahlua, Mexican caramel, hibiscus flower, rum raisin and strawberry butter. The family comes from Tocumbo, Mexico’s ice cream-making capital. 500 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, 707-331-2899, frozenarticecream.com
Squatch’s Ice Cream and Coffee, Rohnert Park
This nonprofit ice cream and coffee shop near Sonoma State funds a nearby student center and serves up Petaluma’s-own Mariposa ice cream. 1451 Southwest Blvd., Suite 111, Rohnert Park, 707-992-0841, squatchscoffee.com
Co-owner Linsee Sage rolls cookies and cream ice cream on mini M&M’s at Squatch’s Gourmet Ice Cream Sandwiches and Coffee in Rohnert Park on Saturday, July 10, 2021. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Swirl Time Frozen Yogurt Bar, Rohnert Park
Another locally-owned Sonoma State fave serving up great fro-yo with a smile. 1718 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park, 707-795-7900, swirltime.com
Honeymoon Frozen Yogurt, Sebastopol
This local yogurt shop is a favorite because of its organic ingredients and commitment to local farms. Plus, it’s open seven days a week. 7108 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol, 707-829-9866, honeymoonfrozenyogurt.com
Baskin Robbins, Various Locations
You can’t say 31 flavors without thinking of this classic ice cream spot. Daiquiri ice is among our favorite flavors. Locations in Petaluma, Windsor, Santa Rosa and Rohnert Park. baskinrobbins.com
Cold Stone Creamery, Various Locations
A longtime chain favorite featuring simple base flavors from vanilla and chocolate to cake batter with dozens of mix-ins to make a truly unique scoop. Santa Rosa, Rohnert Park and Petaluma locations. coldstonecreamery.com
Morgan Filler, founder of See Her Swim, with friends Autumn Fuentes, in pink, and Ayla Mills, in black, at Dillon Beach near Tomales Wednesday, May 14, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
To paraphrase the classic ’80s ad that’s become a meme, Morgan Filler is not only the founder of See Her Swim — she’s also a client. The Petaluma mother of two girls and former professional swimmer launched the brand in the fall of 2020 after recognizing a need for high-performance swimwear that was also stylish.
“When I had my own kids, I saw that if I wanted them to play in the water and swim, I had to make it fun,” says Filler, who grew up open-water swimming with her parents in Chesapeake Bay. “I wanted to incorporate my athleticism into family time. I would play in the pool, in the river, in the ocean with them. They grabbed my straps, turned me into animals they rode underwater. They played tag with me and held and stretched my suit so I couldn’t escape.”
During the pandemic, as she taught her younger daughter to swim at Morton’s Warm Springs in Glen Ellen and a community pool in Petaluma, an idea she developed years earlier while teaching swim lessons began to crystallize. Traditional Speedos were too basic for pool parties or beach barbecues, and so-called “fashion” suits weren’t sturdy enough to stand up to active swimming, let alone the demands of amphibious parenting.
Morgan Filler, founder of See Her Swim, with friend Autumn Fuentes at Dillon Beach near Tomales Wednesday, May 14, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
“What if I made a hybrid suit?” Filler asked herself. “So, I took a fashion style and made it with performance construction.” She enrolled in a fashion studies class at Santa Rosa Junior College and learned to sew a prototype, took an online website-design and marketing course, and eventually partnered with a manufacturer in Los Angeles. Before long, she was selling suits at pop-up events across Sonoma County. Today See Her Swim offers six one-piece styles, including plus sizes, all made of a recycled polyamide material that’s 50 times stronger than traditional Lycra or spandex. Filler is looking for investors and interns to help the business grow.
In a way, swimming has become a career again for the open-water expert who in her 20s traveled the world on the pro circuit, competing in races in several countries including Argentina, Brazil, Italy, Macedonia, Slovenia, and Egypt. “I’m back at it as a profession, so it’s full circle, and it feels really good,” she says.
These days Filler is as likely to be seen surfing the waves at Dillon, Doran, or Salmon Creek beaches as she is diving under them. During summer, she loves taking the family to Healdsburg’s Veterans Memorial Beach on the Russian River. “One kid will be on a paddle board, my partner and my other kid will be on a kayak.” She swims alongside — sporting one of her own suits, naturally.
Frog’s Leap Winery in Rutherford. (Emma K Creative)
For four decades, Frog’s Leap has been making some of Napa Valley’s most expressive wines — but they’re not inclined to brag about it. The eco-conscious winery is known for its playful, unpretentious spirit and a lineup of accessible and balanced wines, from crisp Sauvignon Blanc to elegant Cabs.
The story
John Williams studied dairy sciences at Cornell University before a work-study program at nearby Taylor Wine Company inspired him to trade milk for wine. In 1975, Williams hopped a Greyhound bus for Napa Valley and pitched a tent on a rundown farm owned by Larry Turley — his college friend’s brother. Turley introduced him to Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars founder Warren Winiarski, who hired Williams as the fledgling winery’s first employee.
Williams went on to become head winemaker at Spring Mountain Winery, and in 1978, he teamed up with his original campsite “landlord” to plant Sauvignon Blanc on Turley’s property. In 1982, Williams and Turley released their first Frog’s Leap wine.
John Williams, left, and his son, Rory Williams, of Frog’s Leap Winery in Rutherford. (Emma K Creative)
The partners went their separate ways in 1994, and Williams found a new home for Frog’s Leap in Rutherford. In the years to follow, he expanded the winery’s vineyard holdings, added fruit trees and other crops to the ranch, and became a passionate practitioner of dry farming. Frog’s Leap earned organic certification in 2002 and went solar two years later.
The Williams family now farms 200 acres of vines in Napa Valley, including 40 on the winery ranch. Frog’s Leap’s original Sauvignon Blanc is still a flagship, along with Cabernet Sauvignon.
The vibe
At Frog’s Leap Winery in Rutherford. The wraparound porch is one of the best places to sip. There’s also a sweet Garden Bar set in a shady spot away from the main house. (Emma K Creative)
Driving onto the Frog’s Leap estate, past the restored Red Barn fermentation room, you get an instant feeling that you’re down on the farm. Because you are. The contemporary-meets-Mission-style Vineyard House tasting room — one of California’s first LEED-certified winery buildings — is surrounded by vineyards and a lush garden towering with sunflowers and bursting with vegetables.
The best place to taste is on the covered, wraparound porch, cooled in the summer by ceiling fans and warmed in winter with overhead heaters. There’s also a sweet Garden Bar set in a shady spot away from the main house, designed for casual tastings (kids and dogs welcome).
On the palate
Frog’s Leap wines never cease to impress me because they’re always balanced, elegant and just plain delicious. Head winemaker Rory Williams, John’s son, has clearly learned a lot from his dad. The mouthwatering 2023 Concrete Aged Sauvignon Blanc from Rutherford ($55) was fermented and aged entirely in egg-shaped concrete vessels, and it has the minerality and creamy texture to prove it. John’s love for Chablis reveals itself in the 2022 Shale & Stone Chardonnay ($42), aged just four days in French oak before moving to stainless steel tanks.
At Frog’s Leap Winery in Rutherford. The eco-conscious winery is known for its lineup of accessible and balanced wines, including the crisp Sauvignon Blanc. (Emma K Creative)The Garden Bar at Frog’s Leap, in a shady spot away from the main house, is designed for casual tastings. (Emma K Creative)
Frog’s Leap Cabernets are perpetually lovely, yet I had a hard time putting down the 2022 Napa Valley Zinfandel ($45), a sophisticated rendition that leaves those big ol’ jammy Zins in the dust. If you’re in the mood for a light, chillable red, try the multi-appellation 2023 Flycatcher blend ($35).
Tasting options include casual flights at the Garden Bar ($45) and seated tastings at the Vineyard House, ranging from $60 to $100. When you’re finished sipping, meander through the gardens to see what’s buzzing.
Beyond the bottle
Lobster dog with caviar from Under-Study, a sibling to St. Helena’s Press restaurant. (Press restaurant)
For breakfast, lunch or a between-wineries snack, check out Under-Study in St. Helena, from the team at Michelin-starred Press. The casual bakery and counter-service café offers playful-yet-sophisticated bites, like the Lobster Corn Dog — a BottleRock favorite. Also find gorgeous pastries, tapas, local and international wines, and a takeaway butcher and seafood counter. Outdoor seating will open later this summer. In the meantime, patrons can order at the counter and settle in on the pretty patio at Press.
Frog’s Leap Winery, 8815 Conn Creek Road, Rutherford, 707-963-4704, frogsleap.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food, and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED, and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.
Volunteers, from San Jose, Marie Taylor Harper (left) and Mary Ann May-Pumphrey snap a ‘selfie’ at the 45th Gravenstein Apple Fair at Ragle Ranch Park in Sebastopol. (Will Bucquoy/For The Press Democrat)
In late summer, west county is awash in the scent of fermenting Gravenstein apples, fallen in backyard orchards and forgotten groves. Once known as the Apple Capital of the World, Sebastopol has a 150-year-old relationship with the heirloom varietal, which peaked in the mid-20th century when factories processed fruit from thousands of acres of Sonoma County orchards.
As vineyards moved in, orchards were razed or abandoned — and the fate of the Grav hung in the balance. But thanks to local Slow Food chapters and passionate cider makers, this versatile apple has made a comeback and is now a cherished symbol of Sonoma County’s agricultural legacy.
The annual Gravenstein Apple Fair (Aug. 9-10) at Ragle Ranch Regional Park celebrates all things Grav. Expect apple fritters, pies, cider, candy art — even apple juggling. It’s one of my favorite events of the year.
Grace Lewis, 5, of Santa Rosa participates in the kids apple juggling contest during the Gravenstein Apple Fair at Ragle Ranch Park in Sebastopol. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Focused on local farms and ranches, the fair is a family friendly reminder that Sonoma County is an agricultural wonderland. Plus, who can resist piglet races and a watermelon toss?
New this year
Artisan Tasting Grove: Lounge under shady oaks and sample small-batch cider, cheeses, pastured meats, desserts, and nonalcoholic teas and shrubs from dozens of local producers.
Expanded VIP Experience: A shady lounge, VIP bar and libations tents, prime seating for the music stages — and perhaps most important, luxury restrooms.
Cider tasting at the Artisan Tasting Grove at Gravenstein Apple Fair in Sebastopol. (Debbie Wilson)Gravenstein apples and apple pies from Kozlowski Farms at the Gravenstein Apple Fair in Sebastopol. (Sonoma County Tourism)
Always a hit
Apple Alley: Pies, cakes, fritters, juice, sauce, caramels and fresh-picked Gravs.
Farm Yard: Meet the animals and the people who care for them.
Music Stage: Live indie, bluegrass, hip-hop, jazz and the soulful Love Choir.
Gravenstein Apple Fair: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday and Sunday, Aug. 9-10. Proceeds benefit Sonoma County Farm Trails. Tickets on sale at gravensteinapplefair.com.
Slow roasted pork bo ssam at The Casino’s Half Hitch pop-up. (Heather Irwin)
For more than a year, I’ve been wowed by chef Amelia Telc’s dinner pop-ups at The Casino in Bodega. Her menus are tauntingly delicious, with dishes like seared squid with Calabrian chile and green garlic, pork belly and ginger wonton soup, pot au feu, and chocolate mousse with poached prunes and cream.
Her resume includes buzzy restaurants you’ve definitely heard of in New York and San Francisco, and her globally inspired cooking is driven by what she finds at farmers markets and what’s just come in at the dock.
Kimchi and tofu stew with enoki mushrooms and a duck egg at a Half Hitch pop-up at The Casino in Bodega. (Heather Irwin)
On Thursday nights this summer, she’s cooking at the new River Electric camp resort and swim club in Guerneville (16101 Neeley Road). Her a la carte menus change weekly, but a recent dinner included chicken Provençal, mussels in white wine, crispy new potatoes and a roasted plum sundae.
Access to the private club bar is $5 after 4 p.m., with dinner served from 6:30 to 9 p.m., first come, first served. Details at instagram.com/halfhitch_tomales.