Page 99 – Sonoma Magazine

Meet the Livestock Guardian Dogs of Sonoma County

March 2023

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

Tiffany Holbrook receives a hug from her livestock guard dog, Phoebe, at Wise Acre Farm in Windsor. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

Nice work, if you can get it. Livestock guardian dogs are becoming a more common sight in local pastures and vineyards, as farmers turn to new methods of protecting valuable animals from predators. Dogs are part of the team at Beltane Ranch winery in Glen Ellen, Hanzell Vineyards in Sonoma, and Front Porch Farm in Healdsburg, as well as at several local livestock operations.

John Krafft, who keeps two Maremma dogs named Katrin and Annie to protect a herd of some two dozen goats and alpacas on his rural Kenwood farm, says the dogs seem to genuinely enjoy their job, following the animals to pasture during the day and sleeping with them at night. Their role isn’t necessarily to fight predators; more often, their barking acts as a deterrent.

“They’re super-sweet dogs…they seem to understand, ‘This is my family, this is who I’m protecting,’” says Krafft.

At Hanzell Vineyards in Sonoma, Scout and Radley keep watch over sheep, geese, and chickens. (Brandon Brédo)

Chris Majcherek, who cares for two livestock guardian dogs on a private ranch in Kenwood, says the will to protect is instinctual, but adds that the dogs do need training and exposure to livestock at an early age. Breeds like Great Pyrenees and Maremma were developed for this type of work hundreds of years ago.

Majcherek’s dogs are part of a layered approach to reduce the chance of harm from a coyote or mountain lion, an approach that also includes tall fencing and a sturdy barn to shut his livestock in at night. But it’s the snowy-white dogs, a striking pair of Great Pyrenees named Zoey and Zephyr, who get all the attention.

“I’m sold on them,” Majcherek says. “I just love ’em. They’re just so alert and watchful, and they really bond to the livestock. They’re happy.”

For more information on livestock guardian dogs, visit the Maremma Sheepdog Club of America, maremmaclub.com.

Santa Rosa’s Kendall-Jackson Winery Gets New Executive Chef

March 2023

By Heather Irwin

Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Kendall-Jackson)

Tracey Shepos-Cenami, a longtime executive chef for Stark Reality Restaurants and co-executive chef for Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate and Gardens, has been promoted to executive chef and director of culinary development for Jackson Family Wines.

Working in professional kitchens since she was 15, Shepos-Cenami gained notoriety at K-J for her wine and cheese program and cookbook, “Season: A Year of Wine Country Food, Farming, Family & Friends” (Cameron, 2018). Shepos-Cenami has been a familiar face on Food Network shows “Guy’s Grocery Games” and “Guy’s Tournament of Champions,” which aired March 5.

Shepos-Cenami will appear on Food Network’s “Grudge Match” on March 18 against Guerneville chef Crista Luetke.

Pop-Up Comedy Series Offers Stand-Up at Secret Sonoma County Locations

March 2023

By Lonnie Hayes

Comedian David Nguyen, of San Jose, performs during the Don’t Tell Comedy show at the Flamingo Resort, Thursday, February 9, 2023, in Santa Rosa. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)

If you’re anything like me, chances are you’ve stumbled across an ad of late on Facebook or Instagram for a comedy show billed as semi-secret — and bound for a Sonoma County venue.

“Don’t Tell Comedy show near you,” the ad beckons.

I’m a sucker for anything with a little mystery, especially a comedy show, so I was curious enough to swipe on the ad — one of the few that I’d ever click on.

I came across more details that make this show unique: The comedians are kept a surprise and the same goes for the location, which isn’t announced until noon on the day of the show after you’ve purchased your ticket. That makes it much like a pop-up, meaning shows might take place, say, in your local gym, candy store or a house of worship.

The tickets are $21.99 a piece. Many venues are bring-your-own-beverage.

Santa Rosa is one of about 90 cities in North America and England now hosting the Don’t Tell Comedy shows, and I’m here to tell you about one I attended Feb. 9.

The preceding Santa Rosa show featured comedians Peter Ballmer, Marcus Howard, Sureni Weerasekera, James Mwaura and Butch Escobar. However, that didn’t guarantee the same lineup for my night.

Don’t Tell Comedy is based in Los Angeles and is now in its seventh year. The series’ producers aim to introduce new talent and bring in comedians with national recognition. Their names are a secret until they take the stage.

About noon on the day of the show, a Don’t Tell Comedy email arrived in my inbox, announcing the local venue was Santa Rosa’s Flamingo Resort, which got a makeover during the pandemic.

Don’t Tell Comedy didn’t have any flashy indication of its presence, maintaining the mysterious allure.

At the door, the security team asked for my name, which had been placed on the guest list after my ticket purchase. Queue the pleasant VIP atmosphere of a still-affordable and inclusive comedy show.

The performances took place in the resort’s 150-seat Vintage Space Lounge, designed with a retro appearance, with space-themed cocktails and mocktails. I recommend arriving early to give yourself time to order a drink, maybe the Cosmonaut, which comes with a flavored vapor-bubble atop the martini glass.

If you want to snag a front-row seat, there are plenty of small tables to choose from, along with high-top tables and outer booths. Wherever you sit, be forewarned: You could be called out during crowd work by the comedians.

As showtime approached, about 60 guests were on hand, ranging from couples to friends and co-workers. About 8:15 p.m., the music faded and the show began.

First to take the stage was the host, Jordan Thewlis, an Oakland-based comedian, who earned laughs from the crowd throughout the night.

After he broke the ice, he introduced the first performer: Peter Ballmer, who doubles as Don’t Tell Comedy’s producer for the San Francisco region.

He dove right into crowd work, starting off with baldness.

“My hair is thinning,” Ballmer began. “Anybody else?”

A few members of the crowd cheered. He scanned the tops of the assembled heads, however, and surmised that there were some liars in the crowd.

Laughter erupted and his set was underway.

Next up was San Jose’s David Nguyen, who joked about being a new father and his “exceptionally cute biracial baby;” about being a child of immigrants; and about the woes of modern dating.

The headliner of the night was Emily Van Dyke, originally from the Midwest, but now living in San Francisco, which helped her open the set.

“When I moved out here 15 years ago, I was a little bit shocked,” Van Dyke said. “I didn’t realize when I moved out here to San Francisco how much I was going to miss masculinity.”

The show wrapped up with applause at about the 90-minute mark. Thewlis invited the crowd to return to see another show, with the promise of a different lineup.

“I had never heard of Don’t Tell Comedy, so I didn’t really know what to expect but I really liked the setting and how intimate it was,” said audience member Luis Canseco. “It might have been the beer talking, but I thought every comedian was hilarious, and I think what made the show special was how relatable a lot of their material was.

“Overall, it was a lot of fun with a great selection of drinks and a great lineup of comics,” Canseco said. “I would definitely go to the next one.”

After the show, Ballmer shared with me his experience and background in standup, which stretches back to 2017. He joined Don’t Tell Comedy as a producer the following year.

“So I was running shows in the South Bay, and then I started running shows in San Francisco in 2021,” Ballmer said. Sonoma County shows began around September 2022 as a biweekly occurrence. They now have become weekly.

“I think the longer that we do these shows, the more word gets out, we definitely expect to see more growth over time,” Ballmer said.

The series’ advertising comes from Instagram and Facebook, but word-of-mouth also is a major force, Ballmer said. On its YouTube channel, the company has over 945,000 subscribers, and over 217,000 Instagram followers.

Founder and CEO Kyle Kazanjian-Amory is from Boston but attended college in California and began his career here. His time in the accounting field was short-lived, however.

Comedy was calling.

“I’d always had a passion for stand-up and for comedy, and was obsessed with watching it, so I started doing stand-up,” Kazanjian-Amory said. “I started just going to open mics and performing in any place I could.”

At the time, he lived in Orange County, but moved to Los Angeles after a few months to throw himself into the comedy scene. He began with volunteering at shows and soon after began to run his own as a way to create stage time for himself.

“One thing I noticed when I moved to LA, I would go to comedy clubs, and it was very expensive,” Kazanjian-Amory said. “So I’d go to the comedy club and there’d be a two-drink minimum, and the drinks were crazy expensive.

“I was 23 at the time, and it felt unrealistic for someone who loved comedy to go (often),” he said. In turn, he decided to attend pop-up comedy shows that his new friends in the area were putting on — in people’s backyards.

“I thought it was such a fun and different experience, it felt more like a house party meets a comedy show,” Kazanjian-Amory said. “I felt like there was a space in stand-up to create a brand around making these types of shows more accessible, making stand-up more accessible by bringing it to different neighborhoods, and making it more affordable.”

Don’t Tell Comedy was born in March 2017, in a friend’s Los Angeles backyard, where about 30 attended the first free show.

Host cities now stretch between Vancouver, British Columbia, and London.

“It became clear that we could have a comedian of each city running our shows locally and create kind of the infrastructure to support the shows and selling out the shows with their marketing, which is the hardest part,” Kazanjian-Amory said.

In addition to its ever-growing list of live shows, Don’t Tell Comedy has made efforts to create quality digital content. Its YouTube channel is home to short-form comedy specials, which range from 8 to 12 minutes in length.

Kazanjian-Amory anticipates continuing to grow the show as a whole, while maintaining its accessible qualities, with plans to host a festival later this year, as well as at least 2,000 shows in 2023.

And here’s a hot tip: According to organizers, shows in Sonoma County, at least for now, are here to stay.

You can reach intern Lonnie Hayes at lonnie.hayes@pressdemocrat.com.

11 Favorite Thai Restaurants in Sonoma County

March 2023

By Heather Irwin

Clockwise from bottom right, Special BBQ combo with chicken, pork, beef and ribs, Pumpkin Curry, Pad Thai, Potato Samosas, Tom Yum Soup and Mango Sticky Rice from Thai BBQ House Petaluma on Friday, January 16, 2022. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Thai cuisine is the new Chinese takeout. Well, maybe not so new, as many dishes have become as Americanized as General Tso’s Chicken. But there’s always a spot in our heart for the fresh, bright flavors of galangal, tamarind, lemongrass, lime and a hint of briny fish sauce.

We’ve tried just about all of the Thai restaurants in Sonoma County and found that not all are created equal. What stands out are the dishes that don’t take shortcuts (you know who you are ketchup Pad Thai makers) and use authentic spices, palm sugar and Makrut (a perfumed Asian lime).

Click through the above gallery for some of our favorites. Missed one of yours? Let us know.

Carey Sweet contributed to this article.

Peek Inside Interior Designers the Hommeboys’ Gorgeous Sonoma Home

March 2023

By Abigail Peterson

The exposed ceiling trusses in the dining room were a design experiment that worked. The stone dining table was so heavy, it had to be moved up to the second floor with a crane. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

“I think there’s just so much potential here,” says designer Austin Carrier, as his husband and design partner Alex Mutter-Rottmayer nods in agreement. “We want to be a part of that—new growth and a new generation coming to town,” he says.

He is referring to an energetic and sustainably minded design community springing up around the town of Sonoma. But he could just as easily be talking about the potential other tastemakers see in the two young standouts themselves, who work together under the name the Hommeboys.

Interior Design magazine praised the firm’s contemporary California design for the new tasting room at Healdsburg’s Marine Layer Wines, and the couple was recently tapped to collaborate with retailer Crate & Barrel. And their new line of furniture debuts later this year—all of which is to say that the two would certainly win the award for “Sonoma residents most likely to be on the cover of Elle Décor,” if such an honor existed.

Rising star interior designers the Hommeboys practice what they preach at their newly renovated home and design studio in Sonoma. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

The board-and-batten home of Austin Mutter-Rottmayer and Austin Carrier in Sonoma, with a line of San Pedro cactus the couple bought on Craigslist. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

Austin and Alex’s own richly layered home is located just east of the town of Sonoma, on a family property that also includes a house for Alex’s parents and a cottage for his aunt. Alex, who grew up in Marin, and Austin, who grew up in Memphis, Tennessee, moved to the property in 2015 after a detour running an organic farm together in Washington state. Their large, barnlike apartment, which sits atop a design studio and a cabinetry workshop, has become a creative hub and testing laboratory, a place to think big and stretch their boundaries with new looks and materials. “I think we’ve done five remodels on our apartment at this point,” says Austin.

“If you took the wood ceiling off over there, there’d be wallpaper underneath, and then black paint, and then blue. All the layers you’d see as if you were uncovering the decades in an old house—but we did it in five years.”

“We always laugh that anyone who moved in here would be like, ‘Whoa, what is that?’” says Alex.

A dark and dramatic corner bar area. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

The apartment’s single bedroom, with textiles they’ve collected on their travels. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

The home is a place to experiment with materials and techniques, ideas the couple are intrigued by but want to experience firsthand before recommending to a client. Thus, the striking Roman clay on the interior walls upstairs, painstakingly applied by hand last summer (“before we ever tried that for anybody else, we did it for ourselves and fell in love with it,” explains Austin) or exposing the delicate wood trusses in the ceiling above their massive stone dining table.

The jewel box of a living area is built around conversation pieces, including a specimen cactus and a tall wooden armchair, a traditional Windsor style stretched to cartoon heights. Two prototypes from the couple’s upcoming furniture line—a zig-zag end table and a nubby, glossy black coffee table—bookend a navy velvet couch, while custom arched shelves display African art and mementoes from a recent scouting trip to Venezuela. It’s a playful mix, saturated with color and texture.

Across the room, the darkly dramatic open kitchen, with boldly veined stone counters and backsplash, took shape over time. Back in 2015, they made a project out of building their kitchen cabinets out of oak, then lived with inexpensive butcher block counters while they saved up for stone. “We always kind of laugh because it’s like the cobbler without the shoes… We’d get one part looking good, and then we’d start in on the next. After a period of time, it was like, ‘OK, now we can actually afford to put in the countertops,’” says Austin.

The Hommeboys in their Sonoma kitchen. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

The process in their own home echoes how they’ve worked with clients on larger overhauls that take place in stages, aiming always for quality over quantity. “We’ll say ‘Do these things first,’ and then here’s the idea for the next step, two years from now,” explains Alex.

Downstairs, their new design studio, with wenge wood cabinetry to hold tile and fabric samples and open shelves for their library of design books, has introduced a layer of healthy separation between work and leisure.

Alex admits, though, that it’s hard for the couple to set projects aside entirely. “I don’t think there are nonworking hours. I mean, seriously, our brains are never turned off. But we love it so much that it doesn’t feel like work.” The couple share an easy back and forth, an unspoken understanding of each other’s strengths and weaknesses. They work side by side at a long, shared desk, each occasionally pausing to turn the computer screen toward the other to get feedback on designs.

“After all,” says Alex, “if I can’t sell my idea to Austin, then I know it’s not going to be a go with the client.”

Alex Mutter-Rottmayer, left, reviews a custom furniture design in the workshop. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

Wenge wood cabinets in the studio hold tile and fabric samples. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

They say a key to their work with clients is never taking themselves too seriously. “We always want clients to like our first design, but it’s almost more interesting when they’re pushing back a bit, because that will make us think of so many other different ideas,” says Alex.

“I always tell people that this is a collaborative process, and if it wasn’t, it wouldn’t be fun,” explains Austin. “Part of the fun is seeing what the client’s quirks are, their likes and dislikes, and evolving our design around those concepts.”

The studio space downstairs connects to the outdoors via large picture windows, one located right above their shared desk, and a pair of vintage doors from Egypt that the pair found on a scouting trip to Round Top, the famous antiques festival in Texas. The surrounding gardens include raised beds for veggies, a grove of olive trees, and a line of tall San Pedro cactus the couple bought on Craigslist and propagated to fill in beds at the edge of the barn. Last summer, next to a vintage Airstream they use as guest quarters, they planted a lush new garden of natives and succulents. “There’s something so incredible about living on the land,” says Austin. “In Sonoma especially, it’s so intense how much life comes out in the spring.”

The growth they observe in the garden in spring is paralleled in their business’s recent success. “A lot of people ask us what’s our secret,” says Austin. “And I’m like, I don’t know if there is necessarily a secret. We’re just very passionate about what we do.”

hommeboys.com

The couple’s vintage Airstream-turned-guesthouse. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

Around Sonoma with the Hommeboys

Austin Carrier and Alex Mutter-Rottmayer moved to Sonoma in 2015. Two of the spots they return to again and again are Sonoma’s Valley Bar + Bottle and Healdsburg’s Marine Layer Wines, both of which they helped design. And they love Scribe Winery, where they celebrated their wedding a few years back. Other local favorites include:

Artefact Design and Salvage: “Dave Allen travels the world and brings back incredible finds to the town of Sonoma. Unique, exciting, and unexpected.” 20490 Broadway, Sonoma. 707-933-0660, artefactdesignsalvage.com

Jungle Bamboo & Palm Nursery: “If you ever find yourself fantasizing about having a tropical paradise, go here! It’s full of unique palms, bamboo, and dryscape plants.” 503 W. Railroad Ave., Cotati. 707-7948292, junglebambooandpalms.com

Reeve Wines: “Tucked in a quintessential California oak woodland, Reeve is one of our favorite places to get lost for a few hours. Every single wine is killer, but a favorite is the Riesling. Plus, they have cute goats and are dog friendly.”4551 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707-235-6345, reevewines.com

Brand New Hillside Home in Sonoma Valley Listed for $2.2 Million

March 2023

By Karen Kizer

A brand new build in Glen Ellen featuring modern farmhouse style design elements, including board-and-batten siding, a long gabled roof and steel-framed windows, just hit the market for $2,195,000. The home, situated on a hillside, offers a rooftop terrace and sweeping views of the surrounding Sonoma Valley landscape.

An open concept plan brings together the kitchen and eat-in counter with the dining and living areas, creating one spacious great room with large, sliding glass doors and windows that frame the view of the patio and rolling hills beyond. The dwelling has three bedrooms, two of which have en suite bathrooms, and a pool with a built-in spa.

The stonework in the countertops, fireplace and bathrooms — including a spacious walk-in shower — provide grand and weighty texture that anchors the all-white airiness of the home. Wood cabinets and wood floors add a sense of warmth and natural beauty. Click through the above gallery for a peek inside the home.

For more information, contact listing agent Maurice Tegelaar, 707-484-8088, maurice.tegelaar@compass.com or Matt Sevenau, 707-934-5630, matt.sevenau@compass.com, with Compass Real Estate, compass.com/homes-for-sale/glen-ellen-ca

Popular Santa Rosa Seafood Spot Getting a Makeover, New Focus

March 2023

By Heather Irwin

Interior at Tony’s Galley in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

A little more than a year after opening his namesake restaurant in Santa Rosa’s Montgomery Village, chef Tony Ounpamornchai will close Tony’s Galley (722 Village Court) Saturday, March 19.

Fear not, however, because the chef plans to transform the space into Mandarin Kitchen on April 1.

Ounpamornchai, who’s also behind Sea Thai Bistro, Sea Noodle Bar and Raku Ramen and Rolls, said the new restaurant concept is “mostly heirloom recipes from my parents. Food that I will cook at home.” The menu will feature lots of Chinese cooking influences, but it is still in development, he said.

News of the transition was announced on the restaurant’s Facebook page:

“A little over a year ago, we introduced you to Tony’s Galley, the new but familiar face that you’ve learned to love … a new-old friend whom we share our moments together, good, bad, sad and happy. … And just like a friend, there will be a time that we have to part ways. For us at the Galley, the time is soon, and a goodbye is in order.”

Tony’s Galley gift cards will be honored at the new restaurant, Ounpamornchai said.

The news comes on the heels of last week’s announcement that NYC-based Shake Shack will open a location at the Santa Rosa shopping mall next winter.

Where to Get the Best Pub Grub in Sonoma County

March 2023

By Carey Sweet

The Tell Burger with cheese from the William Tell House in Tomales on Sunday, May 29, 2021. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

With so many new restaurants popping up in Sonoma County, you’ve got to keep on top of things to know where to go. But sometimes you just want something simple; something tried and true: a cold beer, a juicy burger and the cozy embrace of a classic joint where you can hang out with friends.

Here are five longstanding, homegrown pubs — packed with Sonoma County characters, good food and great fun — that you always can rely on. Click through the above gallery for a peek inside and a few must-order dishes.

Russian River Pub

Guy Fieri loves this place so much that he’s returned three times on his “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives” show on Food Network. And he’s not the only fan, by far.

Russian River Pub — opened in 1972 and purchased and renovated in 2005 by Wendy Gause — has a loyal following for its dozen local beers on tap, local wines and cocktails, plus delicious dishes like Fieri’s favorite chicken wings with housemade sauce, along with charbroiled burgers, a saucy pulled pork sandwich and a steak sandwich smothered in melted jack, sautéed mushrooms and sweet onions.

Check out daily specials such as an open-faced meatloaf sandwich with mashed potatoes, old-fashioned tri-tip stroganoff and a huge, shareable warm chocolate brownie sundae. Bonus: Russian River Pub is open until midnight Fridays and Saturdays.

11829 River Road, Forestville, 707-887-7932, russianriverpub.com

Murphy’s Irish Pub & Restaurant

Cold pints, live music six nights a week, 10 big-screen TVs, Guinness beer and Irish coffee capped in clouds of homemade cream … this Sonoma square joint has everything a proper pub needs.

Murphy’s also beckons with hearty dishes from the Emerald Isle, like Irish stew stocked with lamb, shepherd’s pie smothered in Irish cheddar, corned beef and cabbage, and bangers and mash. There is fancier fare, too, like luscious lamb strips plated with escarole, beets, grapes, apples, gorgonzola cheese and watermelon radish.

Be sure to dig into the top-notch mussels; a heaping bowl of briny seafood, bacon, baby potatoes, parsley, lemon, garlic butter and rich Irish cream sauce.

464 First St. E, Sonoma, 707-935–0660, sonomapub.com

Olde Sonoma Public House

You could call this Sonoma pub a “dive,” but only in the best possible way. This is a happy place to listen to some live music, watch a game, relax with a beer on the patio (32 drafts, alone!) or play pool, darts and pinball. You could even belt out a few tunes during karaoke night.

While Olde Sonoma doesn’t have a kitchen, and thus no food of its own, the innkeepers encourage guests to dine at the bar via takeout or delivery from adjacent restaurants.

And there’s great stuff to order. We recommend Taqueria Sonoma next door, serving up hearty huaraches, a chile relleno burrito, or a torta Cubana stuffed with crispy breaded steak, chorizo, eggs, salchicha sausage, ham, cheese, jalapeño and avocado.

18615 Sonoma Highway, Suite 110, Sonoma, 707-938-7587, oldesonomapub.com

Steiners Tavern

Steiners is open 7 a.m. to 2 a.m. seven days a week and has been welcoming customers since 1927. What’s not to love about a casual, comfy place that charms with a beer on tap for just $5 or a Cosmo for $6?

There’s nothing fancy here, but that’s how we like it, with the compact kitchen cranking out gut-filling, mouthwatering standards such as buffalo-sauced chicken wings, golden battered mini corn dogs, and spicy jalapeño poppers.

Dig into daily specials, too, such as chilaquiles, or penne pasta in creamy chile poblano sauce with chicken.

465 First St. West, Sonoma, 707-996-3812, steinerstavern.com

The Tell Seafood Tower with oysters, crab, ceviche and clams from the William Tell House in Tomales on Sunday, May 29, 2021. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

William Tell House Saloon & Inn

This historic 1877 restaurant (locals call it “The Tell”) may not be located in Sonoma County proper but remains a best-kept secret for the cool cats of west county.

Stop in for killer housemade Bloody Marys; hot, messy, perfect barbecue oysters draped in bacon, Fresno chiles, herbed butter and cotija; local catch fish and chips in golden beer batter; and a superb ahi sandwich of rich pink seared sashimi tuna, creamy avocado slabs, sliced cucumber, purple slaw and drizzle of sweet soy on a soft roll brushed with fiery-spicy dynamite sauce.

Note: Only open Friday through Sunday during winter.

26955 California 1, Tomales, 707-879-2002, williamtellhouse.com

‘Clutch Your Pearls,’ Sebastopol’s Redwood Wine Bar Is Entirely Unexpected

March 2023

By Heather Irwin

Fried Potatoes with pimenton aioli at The Redwood in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

I was expecting a nice charcuterie board. I got one of the most impressive meals I’ve had this year.

When Khom Loi alums Geneva Melby and Ryan Miller soft-launched The Redwood in late February (just days before officially opening on Feb. 23), I planned to stop in for a glass of cloudy wine and maybe a courtesy nibble. It sounded nice, but I’d keep my dinner reservations elsewhere.

Ninety minutes later, I was still eating (and drinking) because once the first dishes came to the table — crisp cubes of potatoes with pimenton aioli ($7) and a plate of fresh pita with the best baba ghanoush ($8) I’ve ever eaten, I wasn’t about to miss out on anything else. The reservations were canceled, I moved to a more expansive table and settled in for the night.

The menu is divided into snacks, small plates, big plates and desserts. Snacks and small plates are available from 1 to 9 p.m.; larger dishes and desserts are available after 5 p.m. The menu will change seasonally, but hopefully, the Route One Pita and Dips will remain permanently.

Melby takes some liberties with the classic Mediterranean hummus, baba ghanoush and labneh, adding za’atar, sumac and fresh herbs to the creamy labneh, but it’s a lovely diversion. Spring for all three dips (with pickled onions and sliced radish) and three large pieces of Tomales’ famous Route One Bakery’s fluffy pita for $22. It will easily feed at least two people.

Route 1 Pita and Dip with pickled fresh vegetables, served with Chickpea Hummus with Za'atar, left, Seasoned Labneh with herbs & Baharat, and Baba Ghanoush with Sumac, at The Redwood in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat) — Route 1 Pita and Dip with pickled fresh vegetables, served with Chickpea Hummus with Za’atar, left, Seasoned Labneh with herbs & Baharat, and Baba Ghanoush with Sumac, at The Redwood in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

The Scallop Crudo ($16) with tart slices of kumquat, fennel and drips of fennel frond sauce is chefs-kiss good with Weingut Brand “Electric Chardonnay Acid Test” 2021 with hints of pineapple, lemonade and “lightning bolts.” That’s a wine descriptor worth stealing.

Carrots and Black Sauce ($17) stole the show, however. Caramelized carrot spears with fried cumin and feta sit atop a pool of “black sauce” made with skins of the smoky eggplant used in the baba ghanoush. It’s mixed with honey, vinegar and caramelized onion for an umami bomb of flavor. A bright herb salad with parsley and mint lightens the dish perfectly. Arroz Negro ($25) is a heaping bowl of risotto dyed black with briny squid ink and topped with bites of grilled squid.

There’s plenty more to choose from, including a selection of gourmet tinned fish with potato chips and pickles ($17 to $23), Liberty Duck Chicken Liver Mousse with fig mostarda ($14), Braised Lamb Shank ($39), Roasted Squash and Maitakes ($19) and Semolina Crepes with spiced honey butter ($10).

Melby’s menu is truly a stunner that you can go back to repeatedly as the seasons change.

J. Brix Sunrise Over Skin at The Redwood natural wine bar in Sebastopol on Friday, February 24, 2023. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat) — J. Brix Sunrise Over Skin at The Redwood natural wine bar in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

When I first spoke to The Redwood last September, Melby (the chef) and Miller (the beverage director) were just at the trailhead of their journey to open a natural wine bar and kitchen at the former Ginger Thai in Sebastopol. The duo had tested the concept at pop-ups for more than 18 months, found a brick-and-mortar space to remodel and were ready to share their passion for the fast-growing field of low-intervention, native yeast, unfutzed-around-with style of wine.

It’s exactly what the next generation of wine drinkers want in their glasses because there are no rules about pairing or silly explanations. Clutch your pearls, darling, because at The Redwood, sediment in your glass is a positive, cloudiness is expected and a little funk never hurt anyone.

“When we moved (to Sonoma County), we started meeting all of these natural winemakers, joining this community but realizing that we had to go to SF or Oakland to buy or even have a glass of these natural wines in person,” Melby said last September.

The casual tables for two or eight are scattered about, with a friendly bar front and center. You can just eat, you can just have a drink, you can do both or just grab a bottle and go. The selection of wines runs from light French Beaujolais and skin-contact whites (the J. Brix “Sunrise over Skin” riesling from Los Alamos is a stunner) to meaty syrahs and cabernet francs. The bottle list runs four pages and is a perfect primer on the world of natural wines. A great variety of wines also are available by the glass.

A small but well-stocked bottle shop includes dozens of approachable and affordable wines to take home.

The Redwood is at 234 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-861-9730, theredwoodwine.com. Open from 1 to 9 p.m. Thursday through Monday.

Heather Irwin is the Dining Editor of the Press Democrat and Sonoma Magazine. You can reach her at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com.

This Beloved Sebastopol Restaurant Is Back, Reimagined

February 2023

By Heather Irwin

Fork Roadhouse, west of Sebastopol. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

When Sarah Piccolo closed her Sebastopol restaurant, Fork Roadhouse, in late November, she quickly realized that it wasn’t just the food her customers would miss, it was the sense of community she fostered at the west county roadhouse.

“I learned that this was a home for people. They missed the space, and they loved to escape here,” she said.

With the help of a longtime friend, Jesica Lyons, of the local plant-based pop-up J.E.S., the restaurant is coming back to life as a food collective. The growing cast of food businesses at Roadhouse Collective include Lyons, Piccolo’s Fork Catering, Bayou on the Bay (Bradley Wildridge), Happy Cat Pizza (Mark Boccardi) and SubHuman, a sandwich concept from Spencer Hochman.

“Times have changed, and we want to work hand-in-hand together. We’re sharing each other’s knowledge and resources,” Piccolo said. The food collaborators will share the space as an event venue, commissary kitchen and pop-up space for their restaurant concepts.

Owner/chef Sarah Piccolo at the Fork Roadhouse on Bodega Ave. east of Sebastopol. (JOHN BURGESS/The Press Democrat) — Owner/chef Sarah Piccolo at Fork Roadhouse. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

For Piccolo, collaboration isn’t just a nice idea. It’s a necessity.

“This is a unique business model that works with today’s inflation, and it just being harder to have a business in Sonoma County; people need commissary space without the expense of a full restaurant. It’s taking the stress off and creating community,” she said.

The Roadhouse Collective also will share the expense of key employees, like a dishwasher, Piccolo said.

“We just all really need each other right now,” she said.

The Roadhouse Collective will have a preview opening March 2 with classic Fork Roadhouse food, Friday will feature J.E.S. plant-based food and Saturday night and Sunday brunch with be with Bayou on the Bay. Menu details and information about future events and pop-ups can be found at roadhousecollective.com and at Instagram.com/roadhousecollective. 9890 Bodega Highway, Sebastopol.

More dining news

Food Fight for Reproductive Rights

On March 5, chefs Bryan Oliver (Little Saint), Liza Hinman (Spinster Sisters) and Crista Luedtke (Boon Eat + Drink) will join a celebrity lineup of Healdsburg mixologists for a food and cocktail competition benefiting reproductive justice.

Attendees of the ticketed event at Healdsburg’s Little Saint can watch the chefs and drink-makers duke it out and taste small plates, hors d’oeuvres and cocktails. Tickets are $100 per person and will benefit ACCESS Reproductive Justice and Indigenous Women Rising. Attendees must be 21 or older.

25 North St., Healdsburg, bit.ly/3J0n66g.