It’s no secret Healdsburg is an extravagantly fun and beautiful place to visit. Condé Nast Traveler further attested to its appeal in its 2024 Readers’ Choice Awards, released Oct. 1, in which Healdsburg ranked among the best cities in the United States.
The list, divided into big and small cities, listed Healdsburg as the No. 8 best small city in America. The article states Healdsburg boasts “a wonderful mix of scenic vineyards, buzzy restaurant openings, and a vibe that’s managed to stay breezy and relaxed despite the town’s uptick in popularity.”
This isn’t the first nod to the city from Condé Nast, which called it “Sonoma County’s most charming town” in 2022. To make the most out of your stay, here are some of the best things to do and places to go in Healdsburg.
Healdsburg Plaza. (Kim Carroll)Riverfront Regional Park in Healdsburg. (Mariah Harkey)
Where to go
Starting from the historic Healdsburg Plaza, the recent Condé Nast article recommends making time for the Healdsburg Farmers’ Market to peruse goods and wares from local merchants. The farmers market is open from 9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. on Tuesdays, May through September, on the Plaza, as well as from 8:30 a.m. to noon on Saturdays, April through December, at the West Plaza parking lot (one block from the town Plaza).
The article also suggests heading to boutique wine shop Ciao Bruto for its “artisanal Italian foods and biodynamic wines.” Ciao Bruto is open daily and offers a variety of wines, including orange wine and rosato (Italian rosé), as well as provisions like pasta, preserves, cheeses, tinned fish, olive oils and more.
Picnic provisions in hand, make your way to Riverfront Regional Park for a lovely hike near the Russian River followed by a picnic lunch under a shady redwood grove.
At Aesthete Winery & Farm in Healdsburg, make a reservation in the Creekside Lounge with its individual, private spaces furnished with Adirondack chairs overlooking the banks of Dry Creek. The open-air retreat is perfect for a picnic, or upscale snacks from the tasting room. (Courtesy of Aesthete Winery & Farm)Uzu-San at SingleThread in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)Tiramisu French Toast with whipped mascarpone, Raspberry, coffee ice cream and cocoa nibs on Goguette brioche and a Berry Bliss smoothie from the Acorn Cafe Thursday, October 3, 2024 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
What to taste
With a couple dozen wine bars and tasting rooms, it can be difficult to choose a place to taste in the little city. We recommend the natural wonderland that is Aesthete Winery & Farm, located off Dry Creek Road. The 24-acre property is home to an assortment of wildlife and farm animals, which you can observe (or in some cases, pet) while enjoying a relaxing outdoor wine tasting.
To narrow down your search of where to eat, we compiled some of the best restaurants in Healdsburg. Among them is the world-renowned SingleThread (the only three Michelin-starred restaurant in the county), providing high-end, once-in-a-lifetime dining experiences. There’s also more casual places to take the whole family, like Iggy’s burger shop inside Angela’s Organic Ice Cream (burgers and ice cream in one spot — score!) and the brand new Acorn Cafe, offering a much-needed stellar brunch destination.
Guests at Montage Healdsburg can enjoy wines from the onsite vineyard, made by renowned winemaker Jesse Katz. (Montage Healdsburg)The remodeled Madrona has a plush look that is comfortable yet elegant. (Matthew Millmann)
The Madrona, another Michelin Key winner along with Montage, reopened in 2022 following a $6 million renovation. The 1881-era Victorian hotel features modern design and restored architectural features along with charming antiques.
Last month, Sunset magazine listed Healdsburg’s Harmon Guest House among the best Wine Country hotels. The hotel offers public spaces for local artists, like Maria de Los Angeles, as well as alfresco dining on The Rooftop terrace, overlooking Fitch Mountain.
For more places to sip, eat, play and stay in Healdsburg, along with the rest of Sonoma County, stay tuned on sonomamag.com.
Tiramisu French toast with whipped mascarpone, raspberry, coffee ice cream and cocoa nibs on Goguette brioche and a Berry Bliss smoothie from the Acorn Cafe Thursday, October 3, 2024 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Healdsburg is known for many things, but breakfast isn’t one of them. Despite a wealth of fine dining options for lunch and dinner, there are precious few spots to tuck into a hearty pancake breakfast, eggs Benedict or morning mimosa.
Acorn Café is staking a syrup-soaked claim on that void with its over-the-top takes on breakfast, brunch and lunch. The lineup includes tiramisu French toast, a brown butter hollandaise Benedict and quite possibly the world’s most inspired fried chicken sandwich.
A tasty low and no-alcohol and cocktail menu and wine list create a Sunday brunch feel even on weekday mornings.
‘Shop Local’ Benedict with Journeyman bacon, brown butter Hollandaise and Acorn breakfast potatoes from the Acorn Cafe Thursday, October 3, 2024, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
“Here you can detox, re-tox and repeat,” said chef/owner Beryl Adler. The longtime fine-dining chef has worked in far-off locales like Bali, Australia and the Caribbean, but saw an opening for a sit-down café in Healdsburg dedicated to morning and early afternoon eats.
“In my experiences throughout Asia and Australia, I saw that breakfast can be fun, colorful and nourishing, and that’s what I wanted to bring here,” he said.
Acorn Cafe is a Healdsburg gem for lunch and brunch
The former Oakville Grocery has been reborn as a joyful, light-filled downtown gathering spot decorated in sunkissed oranges and blues with modern wood accents. There’s plentiful seating inside and on the patio, which is warmed by a built-in fireplace.
And though Adler’s globe-trotting days are fond memories, he loves the small-town charm of Healdsburg, where he can spend time with his wife and young daughter. As a dad, he was emphatic that the café welcome families, offering a special children’s menu, book-borrowing and a toy corner.
“There’s something touching about this tight-knit community of 12,000 people. It’s got that small-town charm and ultra-luxury feel, the best of both worlds,” Adler said. “That’s why we wanted to call it home.”
Fried chicken sandwich with housemade teriyaki sauce and pickled vegetables from Acorn Cafe in Healdsburg. (Acorn Cafe)Lemon Ricotta Hotcake with Acorn house lemon curd, whipped ricotta, oat crumble and lemon lavender ice cream from the Acorn Cafe Thursday, October 3, 2024 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Best Bets
Fried Chicken Sando, $21: After suffering from a litany of distressingly over- or undercooked fried chicken sandwiches, I’m cautious about ordering them. Adler’s, however, had my attention with a Goguette Bread togarashi-topped bun (made specially for Acorn), housemade teriyaki sauce, pickled carrots and daikon and a slather of spicy mayo. Each bite is creamy, crunchy, sweet, pickle-y and delicious, with a restrained crunch that tickles rather than tearing up the inside of your mouth. Required eating.
Lemon Ricotta Hotcake, $15: If you’ve seen the ridiculously fluffy Japanese pancakes starring on every food blogger’s social media pages, you’ll get this pillow-top hotcake. Impressively large without the overpowering bitterness of too much baking powder. Adler says the ricotta cheese helps puff up the batter. Served with lemon lavender ice cream from nearby Noble Folk bakery.
Tiramisu French toast, $16: Almost too cute to eat, this dessert-for-breakfast concoction starts with Goguette brioche, adding a layer of pressed cacao nibs and topped by kisses of whipped mascarpone and coffee ice cream.
Tiramisu French Toast with whipped mascarpone, Raspberry, coffee ice cream and cocoa nibs on Goguette brioche from the Acorn Cafe Thursday, October 3, 2024 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Shop Local Benedict, $20: Brown butter takes this hollandaise to the next level, turbo-powering the sauce with flavor. Fat slices of Journeyman bacon and perfectly poached eggs make this a new brunch favorite. Served with roasted and togarishi-spiced purple and sweet potatoes.
Green Eggs & Ham, $18: This Turkish-inspired egg dish may have a silly name, but it’s dead-serious delightful. Two poached eggs sit atop a pool of herby yogurt and zesty Egyptian dukkah spice, begging for enthusiastic dipping of grilled sourdough toast. It would be equally delicious without the generous slice of salty ham, but Sam-I-Am might be disappointed.
Buckeye Cocktail, $15: Skip the orange juice for this punchy cocktail made with tangy Seville orange aperitif, turmeric, ginger tonic and lemon.
Blood Orange Spritz, $10: Aperol spritz and mimosas are so last week. Brunch has a new bestie in this sweet and tart porch-pounder that’s refreshing, fizzy and a perfect foil to rich dishes.
Acorn Café also offers grab-and-go salads and sandwiches, juices and smoothies. Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday to Sunday with an all-day menu 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., and a cocktail and snack menu 3 to 5 p.m. 124 Matheson St., Healdsburg, acornhealdsburg.com
Inside Songbird Parlour, an event space in Glen Ellen. (Songbird Parlour)
According to owners Lauren Kershner and Kenneth De Alba, Jack London Village’s Victorian lounge and event venue, Songbird Parlour, will open as a full-time restaurant in November.
The modern, farm-to-table menu, created by chef Eric Moulton, will include dishes like roasted beets with Grazin’ Girl Gorgonzola and crispy shallots; stuffed California dates with housemade chorizo and Achadinha fromage blanc; and seared duck breast with hand-ground heirloom polenta.
Chef Eric Moulton of Songbird Parlour in Glen Ellen. (Songbird Parlour)
Kershner will curate a hyper-local wine list with daily social hours from 3:30 to 5 p.m. spotlighting different winemakers. The 42-seat lounge and restaurant will host live music events and comedy nights. Private dining options will also be offered. Stay tuned for more opening details.
The space was formerly home to Mo’z, a breakfast and brunch restaurant that closed in September. Subject to health and building permitting, owners hope for a late 2024 opening. The new restaurant is not affiliated with the much-missed Bollywood restaurant on Fourth Street, which shuttered in 2020.
19Ten Bar & Provisions on Fourth Street in Santa Rosa, Oct. 10, 2024. The bar closed after a year in business and $1 million in upgrades. (Maci Martell / Sonoma Magazine)
When restaurateurs JC Adams and Brad Barmore opened KIN restaurant on the Windsor Town Green in 2011, they banked on the continued growth and energy of the family-friendly community. Thirteen years later, the decision has paid off with a thriving business.
The duo took another chance on Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square last summer, opening 19Ten bar and restaurant in the sprawling Jack & Tony’s location as a new wave of businesses looked to invigorate the historic district. Despite a popular menu and critical praise, the restaurant couldn’t catch the same lightning in a bottle. It permanently closed in early October.
“The traffic never materialized the way we hoped,” said Barmore, who also co-owns Healdsburg’s KinSmoke.
Though they spent $1 million updating the space with new lighting fixtures, furniture and kitchen upgrades, Barmore said that perceived parking and safety issues at night contributed to an already challenging landscape for restaurateurs plagued by rising food costs and staffing shortages.
“The hardest thing is to look people in the face you consider family and friends, and who went through the battle of opening a restaurant, and tell them you can’t hold up your end of the bargain,” Barmore said.
Kona Kampachi Ceviche with avocado, kohlrabi, citrus kosho from The Matheson in Healdsburg on Friday, November 5, 2021. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
You’re more likely to find ostrich boots and luxury Land Rovers around the Healdsburg Plaza than the dusty cowboy boots and dirty pickup trucks that populate Sonoma’s richest agricultural acreage.
Now winkingly referred to as “Beverly Healdsburg,” longtime locals chafe at the influx of tech moguls, hedge funders and celebrities who are buying second (or fifth) homes in the region and driving up the cost of, well, everything.
But without the influx of money, Healdsburg wouldn’t be the gastro-destination it’s become over the past 20 years. It has the highest concentration of Michelin stars, celebrity chefs and awe-inspiring menus in the North Bay. Patrons of its restaurants allow chefs to push boundaries, explore new ideas and take big risks that wouldn’t be possible elsewhere.
Change is inevitable, especially as more and more city-dwellers discover Wine Country’s charms. Hopefully, however, Healdsburg will keep some of that agricultural ethos that made it so charming in the first place.
Here are some of my favorite restaurants worth trying (or revisiting).
Neighborhoody
Guiso Latin Fusion: At this cozy Healdsburg hideaway, chef Carlos Mojica does gastro-magic in a way that isn’t precious just for the sake of being impressive. Instead, the young chef tells captivating stories with each better-than-the-next dish — from his grandmother’s secret recipe for Latin-style tomato sauce and his mother’s daily preparation of Salvadoran pupusas, stuffed with flower buds and cheese or the Pao de Queijo (Brazilian cheese bread) inspired by a childhood friend. Though the petite restaurant is a hometown favorite, it still floats under the radar of most dining guides, making it a hidden gem in a town dominated by showy Michelin stars. 117 North St., Healdsburg, 707-431-1302, guisolatinfusion.com
The Gallery Burger with fresh thyme, gruyère, caramelized onions with a table side pour of bordelaise sauce from Studio Barndiva in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
HBG–Healdsburg Bar and Grill: Owned by a Michelin-starred chef, this casual bistro is where Healdsburg comes to grab a burger, beer-battered onion rings, fried chicken sandwiches and local beers. Plus, it has the area’s best Bloody Mary. 2245 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-3333, healdsburgbarandgrill.com
Gallery Barndiva: Kick back in this expansive art and dining space for a craft cocktail, The Gallery Burger (a hamburger stuffed with cheese in a Bordelaise sauce) and thoughtful conversation. Watch for upcoming events that highlight environmental visionaries. 237 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-431-7404, barndiva.com
Lunchy
Iggy’s: What if a Big Mac was made with two organic beef and tallow patties sandwiched between three Hawaiian buns, with organic cheddar and topped with housemade “million island” sauce? What if that burger was available inside an ice cream shop? And what if that burger (with twice-cooked fries, natch) was one of the most affordable meals in Healdsburg? Iggy’s is the answer. A mom-and-son collab that includes some of the best burgers and ice cream in the county. 109 Plaza St., Healdsburg. Information is online at instagram.com/iggysburger
Journeyman Meat Co.: Hidden away off the Plaza, this warm yet minimalist space showcases hand-operated Berkel meat slicers, hanging salumis, extensive wine racks, a wood-fired pizza oven and casual seating for sharing plates of charcuterie, pizzas, sausages, sandwiches and a glass of wine. As a butcher shop, it holds a carefully curated case of estate beef and heritage breed pork, along with bacon, smoked and fresh sausages and assorted salumi. 404 Center St, Healdsburg, journeymanmeat.com
Brunchy
Acorn Cafe: Chef Beryl Adler’s cheery cafe is staking a syrup-soaked claim to fame for its outrageous takes on breakfast, brunch and lunch standards that include tiramisu French toast, a brown butter Hollandaise Benedict and quite possibly the world’s most inspired fried chicken sandwich. A tasty low and no-alcohol and cocktail menu and wine list give a Sunday brunch feel even on weekday mornings. 124 Matheson St., Healdsburg, acornhealdsburg.com
Tiramisu French toast at Acorn Cafe in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Parish Cafe: With all of the easy of The Big Easy, the New Orleans cafe draws you in with homey charm, Southern comfort and a menu that’s pure French Quarter. Open for breakfast and lunch, you’ll be hard-pressed to find more authentic Louisiana cooking this side of the mighty Miss. 60A Mill St., Healdsburg, 707-431-8474, theparishcafe.com
Alter Egos
Troubadour & Le Diner: Chefs Melissa Yanc and Sean McGaughey, the owners of the popular Quail & Condor bakery, run this beloved boulangerie and sandwich shop by day and French bistro by night. Wednesday through Saturday evenings, McGaughey riffs on French classics at “Le Diner.” The prix fixe menu changes seasonally, but expect picture-perfect courses made in the tiny cafe kitchen. $125 per person by prepaid reservation only. 381 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-756-3972, troubadourhbg.com
Le Diner at Troubadour Bread and Bistro in Healdsburg. (Emma K. Creative)
Great Drinks, Great Food
Lo & Behold: Want to know where off-duty restaurant staff hang out? You’ll find them here, kicking back with a craft cocktail and shareable plates like Vietnamese crepes with pork belly, gussied-up chicken tenders, beef brisket tacos, and steamed mussels with chorizo or pimento crab dip. Belly up to the bar for the “World’s Best Vodka Soda” with local vodka and “Unicorn Tears.” So good. Open until midnight. 214 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-756-5021, loandbeholdca.com
Matheson, Roof 106: Chef Dustin Valette’s ambitious multistory restaurant complex includes, downstairs, a cocktail bar, a wine wall with by-the-glass vending machines (top-notch stuff, of course) and a more formal dining menu (don’t miss the Tamanishiki Rice Porridge or Aged Sonoma Duck). Upstairs, enjoy pizzas, salads and nibbles on the covered deck. 106 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-723-1106, thematheson.com
Willi’s Seafood: Seafood-centric small plates are the order of the day. Don’t miss the lobster roll, Dungeness crab Louie, one of the area’s best raw oyster bars, steamer pots of mussels swimming in PBR and Old Bay, and a selection of seafood tartare. 403 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, 707-433-9191, willisseafood.net
From left, Sherry Sunset, Into the Mine and Best’s Bait cocktails from Roof 106 at The Matheson in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Iconic
Dry Creek Kitchen: Chef Charlie Palmer has updated the dining room and the menu at this clubby Healdsburg institution, though it remains true to his progressive American style. Executive Chef Shane McAnelly has recently taken over the reins, adding twists like seasonal agnolotti and umami-rich proteins. Leave room for clever desserts from their in-house pastry chef. $135 per person, five courses. 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-0330, drycreekkitchen.com
SingleThread Farm Restaurant: A 15-plus-course tasting menu at this three-Michelin-starred restaurant is an event, not just a night out. Chef Kyle Connaughton’s micro-seasonal dishes are inspired by his time in Hokkaido, Japan, as well as the bounty of the restaurant’s farm. Reservations are required for this once-in-a-lifetime experience. The wine list is one of the best in the area, and that’s saying something. 131 North St., Healdsburg, 707-723-4646, singlethreadfarms.com
A Pumpkin Spice Mousse Bomb with vanilla bean, espresso Chantilly and ginger créme anglaise from the Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)At SingleThread restaurant in Healdsburg. (Garrett Rowland/Sonoma County Tourism)
Valette: The eponymous restaurant of chef Dustin Valette somehow manages to be luxurious and casual simultaneously. Go for the “Trust Me” tasting menu that gives the best insight into Valette’s talents, curated ingredients and playfulness. 344 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-0946, valettehealdsburg.com
Around the World
Bravas Bar de Tapas: The expansive patio is a year-round draw, with the restaurant’s sangrias, ciders, wines and cocktails served with bites of Iberico ham and manchego cheese, tuna belly salad, mushroom escabeche, bacon-wrapped dates with blue cheese and Marcona almonds. The menu is expansive, so come hungry. 420 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-433-7700, starkrestaurants.com
Taste of Tea: This sweet, family-owned Japanese tea house has homey bento boxes, ramen, rice bowls and hard-to-find onigiri (rice balls). An extensive tea menu has more than 80 choices from around the globe, plus sake cocktails, milk tea and matcha. 109 North St., Healdsburg, thetasteoftea.com
Tisza Bistro: It’s Oktoberfest all year long at this German and Eastern-European restaurant that’s got a legion of fans from Petaluma to Cloverdale. Real deal schnitzel, currywurst and warm apple strudel in a charming couple-run cafe. 165 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-291-5193, tiszabistro.com
Melissa Yanc of Quail & Condor bakery and Troubadour in Healdsburg. (Emma K. Creative)
Baked
Quail and Condor: Two SingleThread alums’ deep dive into bread-making has become a destination bakery with an ever-changing lineup of challah, sourdough loaves, sweet croissants, excellent Kouign Amann, cinnamon rolls and more. Order online to ensure you’ll get something before the cases are stripped bare. 149 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-473-8254, quailandcondor.com
Barbecue chicken, Brisket, Brussels sprouts with bacon, macaroni and cheese, and hush puppies at Kinsmoke in Healdsburg. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Smoked
KINSmoke: With a “non-denominational” approach to regional barbecue, KINSmoke features everything from St. Louis style pork ribs and Texas links to Alabama white sauce, Carolina mustard sauce and Texas brisket. Sides It’s all good, including sides like Bourbon baked beans, frickles and three kinds of slaw. Did me mention the burnt ends? 304 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-8440, kinsmoke.com
Coming Soon
Dutch Door Donuts: The former Burdock space has gotten a bright orange paint makeover in preparation for the spring arrival of this Carmel-based doughnut shop. The menu features made-to-order masterpieces of fried dough that come in seasonal flavors like passion fruit and hibiscus, miso caramel, salted brown butter and almond sesame cinnamon. For purists, there’s also vanilla, chocolate and cinnamon. 109A Plaza St., Healdsburg, dutchdoordonuts.com
Sip wine overlooking the water at the new, open-air boathouse pavilions at Cuvaison Winery in Napa. (Courtesy of Cuvaison Winery)
If there were any silver linings to the pandemic, one may be that winery owners discovered the outdoors.
Rather than hosting tastings at a bar or in a lounge, more wineries moved the parties out to patios, lawns and terraces. They had to, of course, to stay in business at the time.
But they soon discovered that guests loved it, sipping while soaking up stunning scenery and connecting with the land where the grapes are grown.
Now, some wineries have taken the idea further, expanding their outdoor amenities so sense of place is a vital part of the wine tasting experience. Discover these new alfresco attractions in one-of-a-kind settings.
Sip wine overlooking the water at the new, open-air boathouse pavilions at Cuvaison Winery in Napa. (Courtesy of Cuvaison Winery)Sip wine by the water at the new, open-air boathouse pavilions at Cuvaison Winery in Napa. (Courtesy of Cuvaison Winery)
Cuvaison Winery
Founded in 1969, the secluded, 400-acre Los Carneros property has always been spectacular, anchored by the Tai Vineyard planted primarily with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. More recently, the winery added a 2,500-square-foot, dog-friendly terrace to the tasting room to capture up-close views of grapevines, rugged open space and, in the distance, a sparkling blue reservoir pond.
Now, with the new, open-air boathouse pavilions, you can linger over estate wines right at the water’s edge. Actually, you taste above the water, since the two redwood and steel trimmed cottages are cantilevered over the pond, for a feeling like you’re floating.
Parties of two to six are private — there are just two boathouses — and include a tour of the vineyard and winemaking cellar, barrel and new release tastings, paired with bites like juicy pork tostadas and fancy sliders. As for actually soaring across the water, that’s a BYOB deal — bring your own boat.
Wine tasting at Aesthete Winery & Farm in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Aesthete Winery & Farm)At Aesthete Winery & Farm in Healdsburg, make a reservation in the Creekside Lounge with its individual, private spaces furnished with Adirondack chairs overlooking the banks of Dry Creek. The open-air retreat is perfect for a picnic, or upscale snacks from the tasting room. (Courtesy of Aesthete Winery & Farm)
Aesthete Winery & Farm
Debuted this April, the 24-acre property is a natural wonderland, home to a herd of goats and sheep and a hikeable restored creek, as well as a riparian ecosystem that welcomes seasonal steelhead and coho salmon, osprey, red-tailed hawks, golden eagles, blue herons, white cranes, ducks and otters.
You can relax on the farmhouse patio, lawn or picnic tables in a shady grove near the “petting zoo” goats. But the best vantage spot is the by-reservation Creekside Lounge, with its individual, private spaces furnished with Adirondack chairs overlooking the banks of Dry Creek. The open-air retreat is perfect for a bring-your-own picnic, or upscale snacks from the tasting room.
Formerly Truett-Hurst Winery, the estate is now owned and operated by Sonoma County native Jeff Jones, who is working with acclaimed winemaker Jesse Katz to produce signatures like Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé and Pinot Noir.
At Cline Family Cellars in Sonoma, taste wine in a cabana overlooking the lavish gardens, grand lawn and pond. (Courtesy of Cline Family Cellars)
Cline Family Cellars
The Cline Family Cellars tasting room is located on the original site of the San Francisco de Solano mission, which was settled as a camp and later moved to the town of Sonoma. The original mission bell now presides over a garden on the 160-acre estate, amid a landscape of 3,000-plus rose bushes, a pond holding dozens of turtles and carp, and a barn paddock for meet-and-greets with resident donkeys Pudding and Fancy.
Choose from several outdoor options, including a hilltop tasting overlooking the Tolay Lake Regional Park area, a casual pondside picnic, or, my recommendation, the newer private cabana tasting.
The three-sided hideaways are flocked in classy white drapes, and bring comfy banquette seating for up to 8 guests. These are nice perches for people watching, since you’re on the edges of the tasting room, lavish gardens, the grand lawn and the pond.
You customize your cabana retreat, with bottle service and an array of nibbles like cheese and charcuterie plates, or a Wine Country Basket packed with goodies like Brie, Manchego cheese, salami, Italian cheese crackers, cookies and fig jam.
Sterling Vineyards gondolas over the valley in Calistoga. (Adam Potts/Courtesy Sterling Vineyards)Sterling Vineyards in Calistoga. (Adam Pots/Sterling Vineyards)
Sterling Vineyards
This impressive, sprawling white winery has held court above Calistoga for 60 years. And, since 1972, guests have marveled at the gondola that (slowly and gently) whisks visitors up the steep northern face of the Mayacamas Mountains.
The grand estate closed after the 2020 Glass Fire, but reemerged three years later, with completely renovated gondolas. The spiffy new ADA compliant rides are much larger and more sleek than the old cabs, with cabins spanning 16 feet tall and with elegant accents like teak seats and tinted glass walls.
I also like that the winery reconfigured the direction of the original gondola trek, so it now offers a longer ride up the northern hillside for even better views. Kudos to the solar power setup, too.
Up top, go for the Hilltop Experience, offering five estate wines that you can only taste at the winery, paired with a local cheese and charcuterie board. And be sure to take time to tour the terraces and gardens after.
Jeff Clark pulls suckers and leafs a vineyard, Saturday, July 6, 2024, during a work party with the Sonoma Winemakers Club. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
Take a trip through most small towns and you’ll find the usual public amenities: A park, a library, maybe even a pool — but a city vineyard?
Welcome to Tex Juen Park and Vineyard in Sonoma, where about an acre of Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon is meticulously maintained and harvested by a devoted crew of hobby enologists called the Sonoma Home Winemakers.
“It was a big lot of weeds when the city took over,” says Doug Ghiselin, who helped establish the tiny, unassuming vineyard on Leveroni Road near downtown Sonoma in the 1990s, along with namesake Henry “Tex” Juen, better known as a prolific stonemason who built many Sonoma Valley wineries.
“Somebody called it a vineyard. But the only vines that were there at the time were the big, heavy, thick ones — the Sauvignon Blanc at the end of the rows.”
Longtime club officer Doug Ghiselin, left, with Rebecca Kreeger at Ghiselin’s home wine cellar in Sonoma. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)Awards in the basement of Doug Ghiselin’s wine cellar Saturday, July 6, 2024, during a work party with the Sonoma Winemakers Club. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
Originally calling themselves “The Valley of the Moon Dilettante Enological Society,” the group planted new vines donated by local wineries and grapegrowers. Where once there was a mink farm, and later an artist colony, now there is a “teaching vineyard.” If you want to learn printmaking or ceramics, you go to the local community center. For budding viticulturists and winemakers, there is Tex Juen vineyard.
On a recent morning, midway through another heat wave, Ghiselin and six other members set up a table in the shade alongside the vineyard. They’re part of “the Leveroni Group,” a subgroup within Sonoma Home Winemakers who do most of the care and harvesting. Within minutes, they’re popping a 2019 Merlot, aged in Ghiselin’s makeshift wine cellar, aka a crawlspace beneath his house.
The Merlot tastes like any moderately priced bottle you might pull off the shelf at a local wine shop. To the bikers, joggers and walkers that pass by frequently along the adjacent Fryer Creek Trail, it seems perfectly normal that the group are standing around drinking wine at 11 in the morning.
In 2023, the Leveroni Group filled two barrels each of Chardonnay and Merlot from around 1,000 vines on just over an acre. Other members farm a few additional rows of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. Some of the wine will go to the city of Sonoma, for pouring and auctioning off at fundraisers and events. But most is split between members.
Over the years, member Bob Brindley catalogued the most common reactions he gets after pouring homemade wine for the uninitiated. They range from “I’ve had worse” and “it’s drinkable” to “not bad” and “this is really good” — the last comment uttered almost in shock.
Dressing up the morning work party’s picnic table with a tablecloth and a spread of gourmet cheeses and almonds is member Rebecca Kreeger, who joined the group in 2019 after she and her husband bought a home with 63 Cabernet Sauvignon vines that needed caring for. Kreeger’s block was too small to hire a professional vineyard company, so she came to a monthly meeting looking for pruning tips. Before long, she was out in the vineyard with Ghiselin and the gang.
Jeff Clark pulls suckers and leafs a vineyard, Saturday, July 6, 2024, during a work party with the Sonoma Winemakers Club. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
The group has around 50 devoted members, many who have small vineyards at their homes. They regularly attend monthly meetings, where wine industry guest speakers often share their expertise and year-round vineyard work parties. At the parties they do jobs like pruning, suckering, weeding and sulfur dusting.
Many volunteer at harvest, collecting grapes in truckloads of 5-gallon buckets. Some are retired or semi-retired, while others are near the end of their careers. Vocations include salumi salesman, travel industry executive, fabricator of large-scale art installations, savings and loan asset manager, and newspaper ad rep. One member, Joseph Daniel, made a documentary called “Tiny Vineyards,” and now makes wine professionally.
They all have a similar dream — to make the best possible wine on what is often the smallest scale possible, with the least amount of expensive tools.
Without professional resources, sometimes basic winemaking needs like temperature control can be a challenge. Over the years, there have been plenty of mistakes and lessons learned. About a decade ago, the city cut off the water. The group has been learning to dry-farm ever since, except for new plantings.
One year, they were fermenting Chardonnay in aluminum beer kegs when a newbie filled them too high and all of the kegs bubbled over. Another year, they didn’t have the technology to determine if the wine had gone through malolactic fermentation. They bottled it — and corks started popping when warm weather hit.
“We’re always trying to find ways to make what we do better, or make the wine better, and so a lot of that is learning from experience,” Brindley says. “We’ve had situations where something didn’t work out and was a big disappointment. And other times we’ve seen really, really big improvement.”
In 2020, the Chardonnay was loaded with too much residual sugar, which led to super-high alcohol content. “It was totally oxidized,” says Brindley. “It tasted like a bad sherry, which you don’t want in a Chardonnay.” Most of it went down the drain, but some people distilled it into rubbing alcohol. Kreeger bottled it in plastic spray cans she uses to clean around the house.
Club member Jesse Castro checks on the fruit at the Tex Juen Vineyard in Sonoma. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
In a way, it’s nothing new. “The Chardonnay never really came out that good back in the day,” says Ghiselin. The reason? “We didn’t have a lot of wine snobs in the group back then,” he says with a dry laugh. After working 30 years in the Vallejo shipyards, he enjoys poking some good-natured fun at some of the less blue-collar winemakers who have joined the ranks over the years.
At an open house in January, part of the mission was to actively recruit the next wave of home winemakers. Paz Del Rascate and Jesse Castro, both in their 30s, were immediately hooked. The friends were already working locally in wine production but wanted to branch out from their day jobs. At their first meeting, a member offered them 100 Chardonnay vines to maintain, harvest and turn into wine. Soon after, someone else offered them 86 Merlot vines. And the offers kept coming. This harvest, they’ll be making wine from nearly 1,400 vines they’ve adopted.
“It’s been crazy,” says Del Rescate, who used to ferment cheap wine in a bag back in his dorm room at Texas A&M. “And in exchange, all they want is a little bit of finished wine.”
Overwhelmed with the amount of pruning, they reached out last winter to Kreeger for help. “She sent out a post, and all of a sudden eight members came out to help us prune,” says Castro. “They had only met us like once or twice. I was like, ‘Wow, is this for real?’ The fact that they came out to support us just speaks volumes.”
When harvest rolls around, “I know if we need more help, they’ll be there,” says Del Rescate. “You can’t do this alone — it takes a community.”
Sonoma Home Winemakers hosts monthly educational talks and group events at the Sonoma Community Center. There are also twice-monthly Saturday morning work parties at the Tex Juen Park and Vineyard in Sonoma. New members are always welcome. For more information, visit sonomahomewine.org.
Kunde Vineyards at peak fall color in Kenwood. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
To taste wine while soaking in the autumn colors in the vineyards is a far more interesting — and delicious — form of leaf peeping. October is the ideal time to witness Sonoma County’s colorful transition from summer to fall in the field, so start making plans now.
Read on below for a few favorite Sonoma wineries for taking in the fall colors.
Jordan Vineyard & Winery
In fall, the buttercup-colored Jordan chateau, covered in Boston ivy, is as iconic a place as any in Sonoma. The ivy morphs from vibrant green to red, then orange to pale yellow. Beyond those walls, the 1,200-acre Alexander Valley estate includes approximately 120 acres planted to Bordeaux red grape varieties.
1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg. 707-431-5250, jordanwinery.com
The front gate and vineyards at Sonoma’s Bartholomew Estate Winery in fall. (Courtesy of Bartholomew Estate Winery)
Bartholomew Estate Vineyards and Winery
Hiking through vineyards is a fine way to see fall colors. But a ride on horseback offers a higher-level, ever-changing perspective. In conjunction with Sonoma Valley Trail Rides, the winery hosts 45-minute rides through the 375-acre estate and its vineyards, with a bottle of wine to take home ($150). There’s also a 3-mile hiking trail past oaks, madrones and vines.
Long known for its Tuscan-style tasting room and marketplace, Viansa also affords an impressive 270-degree sweep that takes in the autumnal palette across the valley, as well as views of nearby wetlands that harbor migrating waterfowl. Wood-framed hillside outlooks — the winery describes them as grown-up tree houses — can be booked for groups of up to six and come with service of four wines, cheese and charcuterie ($75). The Summit Tasting ($40) has broad views from a hilltop terrace.
25200 Arnold Drive, Sonoma. 800-995-4740, viansa.com
Keller Estate
From this Petaluma Gap vineyard perched at 500 feet, the view to the south encompasses glowing grapevines, trees and fall foliage stretching across southern Sonoma and northern Marin. Tastings here include a walking tour of the stunning property.
Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Kendall-Jackson)View of Kunde Family Winery’s vineyards in Kenwood during the Mountain Top Tasting. (Courtesy Kunde Family Winery)
Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens
Kendall-Jackson’s four-acre culinary gardens provide fresh produce for tasting experiences as well as a feast for the eyes during harvest season. The best way to enjoy both is at the estate’s upcoming Come Over October Harvest Hangout from 1-3 p.m. on Oct. 19. The free event includes live music, garden tours and wine tastings paired with fall bites, featuring expert culinary gardener Tucker Taylor along with special winemaker appearances. If you can’t make the harvest hangout, the estate also offers a Garden Tour & Tasting ($55) April through October.
5007 Fulton Road, Santa Rosa. 707-571-8100, kj.com
Kunde Family Winery
There are few Sonoma wineries that show off autumn colors as gloriously as this Kenwood winery and vineyard estate. The 1,850-acre ranch, established in 1879, is enveloped by terraced vineyards and oak woodlands. The effect is one of a blanket of marigold, pumpkin and rust — especially when seen from 1,400 feet up during the Mountain Top Tasting ($100). Kunde’s vineyard views lend to it being among our favorite winery patios in the county.
The estate at Bricoleur Vineyards is beautiful any time of year, and autumn is no exception. With Bricoleur’s Essentials Picnic ($75), guests can enjoy an alfresco picnic either on the pavilion lawn, under a trellis by the pond, or at the picnic tables in the culinary and rose gardens. The picnic package includes a chic red wagon to cart around while exploring the estate grounds as well as a chilled glass of wine and a wicker basket filled with gourmet picnic items.
The hillside tasting room at Trattore Farms (named for the Italian word for tractor) affords sweeping views of Dry Creek Valley to the west and Geyser Peak and Mount St. Helena to the east, all awash in fall color. Various experiences are offered, including wine and olive oil tastings and the Get Your Boots Dirty Tour ($95) — a drive through the vineyards and olive orchard in a Kawasaki utility vehicle, with a stop at the olive mill center and a tasting of wines and olive oils.
Condé Nast Traveler, an online and print guide to luxury travel around the world, received over 578,000 votes from readers in its recent survey. The annual awards ranks prime travel destinations ranging from best resorts and hotels to countries, restaurants, airlines and more. Winners are independently selected by Condé Nast readers.
The pool at Bardessono Hotel and Spa in Yountville. (Courtesy Bardessono Hotel)
Bardessono Hotel and Spa, Yountville
Bardessono Hotel and Spa in Yountville, Napa County, made No. 14 on the list. The 62-room “eco-luxe hotel” offers an on-site spa and garden-to-table inspired restaurant, Lucy Restaurant and Bar, for guests. The suites include both indoor and outdoor showers, “massive living rooms,” outdoor patios and flat-screen TVs, according to the article.
Condé Naste calls the hotel “the ultimate place to slip completely under the radar while being surrounded by world-renowned art and nature.” A night’s stay ranges from $737 to $1,545, depending on the date.
Silverado Resort and Spa in Napa. (Courtesy of Silverado Resort)
Silverado Resort and Spa, Napa
The Silverado Resort and Spa in Napa came in at No. 43 on the list. Known for being “one of the most renowned destinations in Napa Valley” and having an abundance of “state-of-the-art sports facilities,” according to the article, the 1,200-acre resort offers eight on-site dining options with fresh, seasonal produce grown from the resort’s garden as well as hiking and biking trails, private cabanas at the pool and live music on the lawns during summer.
The Silverado costs about $220 to $450 a night, depending on the date.
The lobby at Montage Healdsburg. (Montage Healdsburg)English Pea Soup poured at the table over lavender, coconut yogurt and vintner’s coppa from Hazel Hill at Montage Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Montage Healdsburg
One hotel in Sonoma County made the list. Montage Healdsburg ranked No. 36.
The hotel is set on 258 acres, surrounded by oak trees and vineyards. This is the first property Montage International, an Orange County-based hotel and resort brand, has built in Northern California, according to the article. It has 130 rooms raised, to disturb the land as little as possible and “celebrate its own landscape, leaving the 22,000 live oaks in place,” stated Condé Naste Traveler. The resort’s restaurant, Hazel Hill, offers guests a variety of Sonoma County wines, beers and food.
A night’s stay at Montage Healdsburg ranges from $670 to $5,700.
The only other places in California to make the list were L’Horizon Resort & Spa in Palm Springs (No. 1) and the Waldorf Astoria Monarch Beach Resort & Club in Dana Point, Orange County (No. 25).
Many of the redesigned guest rooms at The Sea Ranch Lodge offer cozy window seats that encourage guests to linger and take in sweeping coastal views. (Adam Potts)
According to Condé Nast Traveler, more than 575,000 readers across the United States weighed in on this year’s survey. Ratings were submitted online during the sweepstakes period of April 1 through June 30, 2024. You can read more about how the results were tabulated here.
The Lodge at Bodega Bay. (Caitlin Atkinson/The Lodge at Bodega Bay)
No. 1: The Lodge at Bodega Bay
Snagging the highest ranking on the top 20 hotels in Northern California list, the coastal retreat places above the likes of Big Sur’s Post Ranch Inn and Sausalito’s Cavallo Point.
Farmhouse Inn, 7871 River Road, Forestville, 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com
No. 7: Vintage House at The Estate Yountville
Set within walking distance of just about everything in Yountville, Vintage House is one of two hotel properties on Washington Street at The Estate Yountville.
Its sister property, Hotel Villagio, took No. 12 on Conde Nast Traveler’s 2024 Readers’ Choice Awards list of top 20 hotels in Northern California.
Auberge du Soleil in Rutherford. (Courtesy Auberge du Soleil)
No. 8: Auberge du Soleil, Auberge Resorts Collection
Inspired by the south of France, the restaurant at this Rutherford property has been awarded a Michelin Star for 17 consecutive years. Auberge du Soleil, Auberge Resorts Collection, also holds the Michelin guide’s most prestigious “Three Key” distinction along with just 16 other hotels in the country.
Smack dab in the heart of downtown Napa and an easy walk to the city’s ever-growing list of wine tasting rooms, restaurants and shops, the Archer also boasts a cool rooftop pool.
Many guest rooms at The Sea Ranch Lodge offer cozy window seats that encourage guests to take in coastal views. (Adam Potts)
No. 17: The Sea Ranch Lodge
No two of the 17 recently redesigned guest rooms are the same. However, the notion of “living lightly on the land” is consistent throughout each accommodation at The Sea Ranch Lodge.
With sought-after access to the Russian River, accommodations at Dawn Ranch come in a variety of configurations. Lodging options range from luxe glamping tents and one-room cabins to two-bedroom bungalows with a full kitchen.
