Farmers Market Report: Santa Rosa’s Wednesday Night Market

Pacheco’s Roasted Corn at Santa Rosa’s Wednesday Night Market (Heather Irwin/Bite Club Eats)

We lost that loving feeling for Santa Rosa’s Wednesday Night Market for a couple years after what felt like a lot of same old same old from the food vendors. It’s time for a makeup to that breakup…

Pacheco’s Roasted Corn at Santa Rosa’s Wednesday Night Market (Heather Irwin/Bite Club Eats)
Pacheco’s Roasted Corn at Santa Rosa’s Wednesday Night Market (Heather Irwin/Bite Club Eats)

The market opened a couple weeks ago for the season, and we’re excited to see some new faces, and even more excited to find a reason to eat our way through the nearly 50 food stalls and trucks. A quick first pass turned up some awesome finds: Anello Family Crab and Seafood are serving salmon and crab from their boat; Haute Gypsy with arepas, cubanos and a pork belly BLT, Gerard’s Paella and Adobos n’More who are serving authentic Filipino chicken adobo, lumpia and rice.

Though they’re not new to the market, S’Wine Country BBQ killed it with their Pig Pen ($8), a gut-busting sausage topped with pulled pork, mango cole slaw and fried onions. Their beans are better than my mom’s (sorry mom) with sweet and heat, and the mango jalapeno slaw is also a stunner. We waited patiently in the mile-long line for Pacheco’s Roasted Corn, slathered with mayo, cojeta cheese and chili powder. If you haven’t tried this Mexican street food, make a bee line, because you’re going to become a fan.

Biteclub’s ready for a second date, Wednesday night…

The Wednesday Night Market runs each Wednesday evening from 5-8:30p.m. through Aug. 17, wednesdaynightmarket.org.

This is a perfect piece of roasted corn with all the toppings from a recent trip to SF’s Gott’s Roadside (Heather Irwin/Bite Club Eats)
This is a perfect piece of roasted corn with all the toppings from a recent trip to SF’s Gott’s Roadside (Heather Irwin/Bite Club Eats)

Authentic Indian With a Modern Twist in Sonoma

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The masala chai tea steaming fragrantly between my palms tastes nothing like the chai tea that Oprah and about a million other Americans have come to know as a milky, sweet, spiced black tea more like a pumpkin latte than what southeast Asians know as “masala” chai, or spiced tea.

That’s the problem with so many ethnic foods we think we love (or hate). The true flavors and inspirations often get lost in translation.

On this uncharacteristically rainy day at Delhi Belly Indian Bistro in Sonoma, the hot, milky masala smells of cardamom, cinnamon and clove but wakes up the tastebuds with a one-two punch of black pepper and ginger. It’s barely sweet and as comforting as a mother’s embrace.

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Scallops at Dehli Belly Indian Restaurant in Sonoma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Just off the Sonoma Square, Delhi Belly is one of only a handful of Indian restaurants in Sonoma County, and easily one of the best. Focused heavily on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu has a familiar lineup of dishes that range from palak paneer to daal and naan, along with tandoori and tikka masala for traditionalists.

But the real buzz is about the less-familiar dishes: Roti and paratha (wheat breads), Hariyali Mali Kofta (a cheese dumpling with spinach and veggies in tomato sauce), kale pokoda (chickpea fritters also known as pakora), and the elusive butter chicken. Often confused with tikka masala, butter chicken is an actual Indian dish (usually from Delhi) with a little more spice, a little less cream and a lot more butter. I like to think of it as tikka masala’s classier cousin.

The menu makes it immediately clear that Delhi Belly isn’t your usual hodgepodge of Nepalese, Northern and Southern Indian curries and overcooked momo. Instead it is a chef-driven menu that’s heavy on authentic spices the use of a hand-tiled tandoori clay oven that cooks at 800-plus degrees.

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Raj Singh and Bhupender Singh, co-owners of Dehli Belly Indian Restaurant in Sonoma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat).

Chef Bhupender Singh looks far younger than a man with his experience at some of India’s top-rated restaurants and well-received eateries throughout California (Avatar, Ambrosia, Saffron). But it was his childhood friendship with co-owner Raj Singh in New Delhi that brought him to Sonoma County.

Missing the endless family feasts, street foods and flavors of home, the two decided that Delhi Belly would be about authentic dishes with modern twists that often nod to a sense of place in Northern California. That means dishes using local ingredients like kale, avocado, salmon and goat cheese in traditional dishes like kale pakora ($5), avocado chaat with layers of pomegranate, yogurt and tamarind chutney ($7) or lamb kebabs stuffed with goat cheese ($9). Cumin scallops with cilantro, lime and roasted peppers ($10) have just a hint of the musky spice, brightened with citrus and perfectly cooked.

Lamb Shank at Dehli Belly Indian Restaurant in Sonoma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Singh’s food isn’t about heat, but about flavor. One of the most impressive dishes is a slow-cooked lamb shank in hand-pounded spices ($18) that falls off the bone into an angry-looking red sauce, surprisingly delicate and deeply complex.

Tikka masala ($14) is a house specialty that’s hard to resist, but it gets the respect it deserves. The tender tandoori chicken and tomato sauce is miles beyond the usual tomato-soup style sauce we’ve had in other Indian restaurants.

Delhi Belly is far better than its name, which the owners meant to evoke the goodness of Delhi’s food but might evoke something else in world travelers. That’s too bad, because our bellies are now very much in love with the luxurious cuisine of this northern Indian metropolis.

Instead, think of Delhi Belly Indian Bistro as a well-deserved departure from ho-hum Indian food and a dive into the rich, fragrant, exotic flavors of a distant land. Without anything lost in translation.

520 Broadway, Sonoma, 343-1003, facebook.com/Delhi-Belly-Indian-Bistro


Don’t Miss Dishes

Vegetable Samosa ($6): Crispy pastry triangles hold a mix of potatoes, spices and peas atop a bed of tamarind and mint sauce.

Tandoori Mixed Grill ($27): We rarely recommend tandoori because too often the meat is drier than Death Valley. Delhi Belly gets it right with tender chicken, rosemary lamb, salmon with mint and basil seekh kabab (minced meat). Heaven on a plate.

Butter Cilantro Naan ($3): Natch. What else are you going to soak up all that goodness with?


 

 

Sonoma People: Who’s Your Dream Dinner Guest?

If you could pick anyone in Sonoma County to join you for dinner, who would it be?
In our article series “Sonoma People: Who’s Your Dream Dinner Guest?” we ask well known locals to name three Sonomans they would like to have at their table…

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The Hostess

AMELIA_CEJA1_crop_sent-2Ameila Morán Ceja has had a trailblazing career, going from vineyard worker to president of Ceja Vineyards Estate in Sonoma Carneros. She relocated to California from Jalisco, Mexico, in 1967, joining her father by working in Napa Valley vineyards.

As a farmworker, she learned firsthand how difficult the life is, and has pushed to improve the working and living conditions of those who toil in the fields today. In February, Ceja was given the Delores Huerta Award by the Farmworker Justice organization, for helping the group successfully advocate for new Environmental Protection Agency Worker Protection Standards on pesticides, to which agricultural workers are often exposed. In 2005, the California Legislature recognized Ceja as “Woman of the Year” for “breaking the glass ceiling in a very competitive business” as the first female Mexican-American winery president.

“Without farmworkers, there would not be a wine industry nor food on our table, and they must be protected and treated with dignity and respect,” said the energetic Ceja, who runs the business with other family members, including her husband, Pedro, and kids Dalia and Ariel. Yet she also finds time to prepare authentic Mexican dishes and pair them with wine, for those who doubt the two can be complementary (and they can).

Ameila’s Dream Dinner Guests 

MARIMAR_TORRES_HIMarimar Torres, Founder Marimar Estate Vineyards & Winery

“I’ve not met Marimar Torres but I’ve followed her career since she opened Marimar Estate Vineyards & Winery in Sebastopol in 1992. We could meet at her winery or at Ceja Vineyards Estate to enjoy a lovely meal paired with both our wines, and discuss the present and the future of the wine industry.

“Marimar comes from an elite and very traditional Spanish winemaking family, while I come from a nontraditional matriarchal farmworking Mexican family. Yet we’re both Hispanic immigrant women. We founded wineries in the two most renowned winegrowing regions in the U.S. We share a passion for food from our country of origin and we’ve succeeded in the maledominant wine industry. I have great admiration for Marimar’s tenacity in shaping her own brand, distinct from her family’s Bodegas Torres in Spain.”

CANDIDO_MORALES_hiCandido Morales, Board Member La Cooperativa Campesina de California

“I met Candido Morales a few years ago, when he was unit chief of the Institute for Mexicans Abroad. His mission was to connect Mexican nationals with the tools that would enable them to successfully transition to life in the U.S. He retired in 2013 and now serves on the board of directors of La Cooperativa Campesina de California.

“Candido and I are immigrants from Mexico. I was 12 years old when I arrived in Napa Valley and he was 13 when he arrived in Sonoma. Neither of us spoke English and our fathers were vineyard foremen. We’re both university educated and we care about social justice issues relating to immigrants and farmworkers. “I would enjoy sharing a meal with Candido to discuss our experiences as immigrants in our adopted country. What has changed and what remains the same?”

MERRY_EDWARDS_HIres_Merry Edwards, Founder Merry Edwards Winery

Merry Edwards of Merry Edwards Winery in Russian River Valley and I have much in common: We like to cook and garden, and we both love Pinot Noir! Equally important, we both have experienced discrimination in the wine industry because of our gender. “Merry is a pioneer in one of the most competitive industries, winemaking. I’ve admired her journey from UC Berkeley to UC Davis to crafting some of the most iconic Pinot Noirs in Sonoma. It would be so interesting and fun to have dinner with Merry, the food prepared by both of us with ingredients from our organic gardens, and paired with our Chardonnays and Pinots.”


Celebrity Chef Ayesha Curry Headlines Sunset’s Celebration Weekend in Sonoma

 

Some 10,000 Sunset Magazine fans experienced the very best of “Western Living” as the California lifestyle magazine hosted its 2016 Celebration Weekend at its new home in Cornerstone Sonoma.

Visitors to the event were delightfully enthralled as editors, celebrity chefs, vintners, craft beer brewers and renowned lifestyle experts went about bringing the pages of Sunset Magazine colorfully alive. While touring the new Sunset grounds, visitors enjoyed fine food and wine while being treated to a lavish preview of the magazine’s picture perfect Test Gardens (designed by Bay Area edible landscaping company Homestead Design Collective), top-of-the line Outdoor Kitchen and a brand new Airstream Village.

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Celebrity chef and lifestyle blogger Ayesha Curry captivated the Celebration Weekend audience as she prepared a parsley-mint chicken, steak with chimichurri, and a citrus-infused tequila cocktail.

Culinary stars traveled from across the West (and beyond) to share their favorite recipes with an engaged Celebration Weekend audience. The weekend’s headliners were dynamic duo Ayesha Curry, author of the Little Lights of Mine blog and The Seasoned Life cookbook; and Amanda Haas, culinary director of Williams-Sonoma. Curry especially captivated the large and ebullient audience as she prepared a parsley-mint chicken, steak with chimichurri, and a citrus-infused tequila cocktail.

Video and photography by Joshua Dylan Mellars Abuela Luna Pictures.

Fans lined up to take selfies with celebrity chef Ayesha Curry.

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Legendary Guitar Maker Still Strumming in Sonoma

His birth name is Sam, though he won’t divulge his last name and wants the world to call him Fat Dog, a nickname given to him by his mother.

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He doesn’t want the exact location of his home and recording studio revealed, though it’s somewhere above Sonoma Valley. Fat Dog, 68, has never married, doesn’t have kids, doesn’t own a cellphone and is fond of wearing tie-dyed T-shirts and jeans. He makes his living running Subway Guitars in Berkeley.

So hippie. So Sixties.

Photography by Jeremy Portje.
Photography by Jeremy Portje.

Yet Fat Dog lives very much in the now, his somewherein-Sonoma music studio and guitar workshop welcoming musicians to play, record and rebuild instruments with him. Some are students from Bennington College in Vermont, who earn credit while learning how to assemble guitars. Others are accomplished musicians who appreciate Fat Dog’s efforts to make guitars affordable to all, and his ability to construct instruments specific to their needs.

One of the instruments he made recently was for Joseph “Ziggy” Modeliste, drummer for New Orleans-based funk band The Meters. Modeliste needed a left-handed jazz guitar for his brother. Fat Dog took a regular jazz guitar and turned it over so the sound hole sits against the stomach, making the back of the guitar the front. Other wacky instruments he’s made include baritone lap steel slide guitars, baritone solid body resonator guitars, electric sitars and mandocellos.

It all happens in his Sonoma workshop.

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Fat Dog’s interest in music started early. He grew up in Philadelphia with unionist parents who played music by activists such as Woody Guthrie and Pete Seeger. His mother told him that music was his weapon, and that led him to move to Berkeley in the mid-’60s, at the height of the civil rights movement. He studied medicine at UC Berkeley to not only avoid the Vietnam War, but because he thought he’d like to become a doctor after visiting impoverished parts of Mexico.

Fat Dog didn’t finish his degree, and instead became involved in Berkeley’s music scene, working part time buying, fixing and selling guitars.

Fat_Dog_Sonoma_Magazine.8“The cultural revolution was in such full bloom, and music was the weapon,” Fat Dog said. “Being involved in the music scene was like being a gunsmith at the height of the Revolutionary War.”

He played guitar with several bands in high school but as an adult became more interested in guitar assembly and jamming with musicians. He opened Subway Guitars in 1968, but by the mid-’70s he needed a place to escape. He bought his property in Sonoma and splits his time between there and the Berkeley store.

The Sonoma studio feels like a roadhouse, a shrine of sorts to blues musician Chester Burnett (Howlin’ Wolf) — his name is etched on the room’s front door — and the sound Burnett brought to music of the 1950s and ’60s. No instrument in the space is newer than 1963, and the wooden floor gives a foot-stomping echo not found in modern studios.

“After 1971, music became so processed and artificial,” Fat Dog said. “Before then, music was spontaneous. What I’m trying to do is take it a step further by using recording equipment from the ’40s and ’50s to capture music that’s raw and has some richness to it, like that of John Lee Hooker, Otis Rush, B.B. King.”

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Musicians looking for that vintage sound enter the recording space with a toddler-at-Disneyland enthusiasm, finding instruments they’ve never seen in person. Playing them, musicians can channel Burnett’s booming tone and record using wire recorders, tape recorders and 78 record-cutting machines. Nothing digital.

On the commercial side, Subway Guitars has been open for 48 years, rare for an independent music store. Stickers touting “Peace Through Equality” are attached to a wall.

Fat_Dog_Sonoma_Magazine.10“It’s not like a sterile Ikea-type of place,” Fat Dog said. “It’s more like the way guitar stores were in the ’60s and ’70s.”

He uses parts from Fender, Alembic, Modulus and others to create functional guitars for cost-conscious players.

In the 1970s, musicians from bands such as Jefferson Airplane, Creedence Clearwater Revival and Santana frequented the store. Members of Green Day hung out there. Michael Franti and Charlie Hunter worked in the shop. Paul McCartney plays one of Fat Dog’s guitars on tour.

“He has one of the best shops to find older instruments,” said the blues musician known as The Maestro. “He provides musicians with incredible instruments and makes them available at a real affordable level. He isn’t ever trying to rip the public off. He sets everyone up, creating a wonderful social situation around music.”

“Fat Dog has always stood for what he calls ‘the proletariat’ in terms of what he offers,” added Ethan Lee, who teaches music and works at Subway. “He doesn’t really care about shiny new guitars. He prefers to get something functional and make it available at a reasonable price for people. There’s massive gentrification going on in the Bay Area, but he’s continued to keep his lo-fi approach and offer entry-level and mid-range guitars to people.”

Sonoma is home to many guitar makers, yet none so storied — and private — as Fat Dog. For all of his shunning of the spotlight, his devotion to old-school musicianship and instruments looms large.

fatdawg.com/dawgpress

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Keep Calm and Craft On: Nourish Your Inner Artist at Graham’s Country Store

In an old white barn on a defunct chicken ranch west of Petaluma is Graham’s Country Store, a throwback to the days when artsy-craftsy folks had a shop just around the corner to purchase materials for decorating wood birdhouses, making holiday wreaths, knitting sweaters and replacing the noggin on a vintage doll.

You could go to the nearest chain craft store, but why, when there’s Graham’s?

Photography by John Burgess.
Photography by John Burgess.

“If you love crafts, repurposing, junking like I do, it’s nearly dreamlike to pull off the road toward the huge barn chock full of crafts that your mother — even your grandmother — enjoyed doing,” said customer Rayne Wolfe of Petaluma. “What don’t they have? It’s an almost Christmas morning-like destination for crafters. They have the fixin’s for everything.”

Helen Graham founded the shop with her husband, Carl, in 1971, and they continue to run the place today. Buddy, a white shitzhu with an adorable underbite, is their canine representative.

JB1221_629558A person could easily lose track of time while browsing the aisles at Graham’s. Shelves are laden with all types of craft supplies: paints and brushes, jewelry-making components, doll parts and tiny decorative lights that are no longer produced. The store also carries a large selection of ready-to-paint ceramics, one of its main draws. Friendly service and the Grahams’ willingness to dig deep into boxes to find just the right item for a customer is another.

They also offer craft workshops for kids and adults.

“We teach whatever people want to learn,” said Helen, 84, from painting ceramics to macramé.

“Yes,” she added, “people still do macramé.”

2865 Pepper Road, Petaluma, 707-795-7514, visit on Facebook.

$3,000 Kobe Beef Steak Anyone?

Wagyu beef at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/15/2016. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat

We’re not usually ones to brag about schwanky dinners we’ve crashed, but a recent winemaker dinner at Chef Dustin Valette’s Healdsburg restaurant, Valette, featured one of the most expensive cuts of meat we’ve ever laid eyes on.

A few pounds of the top-grade Japanese Kobe beef Valette served in small slices to the attendees cost about as much as a round-trip ticket to Tokyo and caused a few tears when pictures of the perfectly marbled meat appeared on Instagram. Now, if you’re not familiar with Kobe, it’s highly sought-after beef from Wagyu cattle raised exclusively in Hyogo Prefecture sometimes fed on Japanese beer and massaged for hours with sake. We have no idea if the cow we were eating lived the good life, but let’s just say it wasn’t missing any meals. (Point of clarification: The entire cut of beef, which was several pounds, was $3K, not a single serving.)

Why we mention this bit of luxury isn’t to brag (okay, maybe a humble brag). But it’s also reaffirm that every once in a while it’s worth experiencing food that isn’t just sustenance, but sublime — even if its just a perfect peach at the market or a warm croissant from the bakery.

That is what eating is truly about.

More Pix from the dinner (because I know you want to see ’em)

A winemaker dinner at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/6/16. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat
Spring peas and lobster at a winemaker dinner at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/6/16. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat
Quail and red polenta at a winemaker dinner at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/6/16. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat
Quail and red polenta at a winemaker dinner at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/6/16. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat
A winemaker dinner at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/6/16. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat
A winemaker dinner at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/6/16. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat
A winemaker dinner at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/6/16. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat
A winemaker dinner at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/6/16. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat
Foier gras and red pepepr gelee at a winemaker dinner at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/6/16. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat
Foier gras and red pepepr gelee at a winemaker dinner at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/6/16. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat
Dark chocolate dessert at a winemaker dinner at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/6/16. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat
Dark chocolate dessert at a winemaker dinner at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/6/16. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat
Duck and 64 degree egg at a winemaker dinner at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/6/16. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat
Duck and 64 degree egg at a winemaker dinner at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/6/16. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat

Santa Rosa’s Wednesday Night Market Food Report

S'Wine Country BBQ's Pigpen sandwich at Santa Rosa's Wednesday night market (heather irwin)
S’Wine Country BBQ’s Pigpen sandwich at Santa Rosa’s Wednesday night market (heather irwin)

We lost that loving feeling for Santa Rosa’s Wednesday Night Market for a couple years after what felt like a lot of same old same old from the food vendors.

It’s time for a makeup to that breakup.

Pacheco's Roasted Corn at Santa Rosa's Wednesday Night Market (heather irwin)
Pacheco’s Roasted Corn at Santa Rosa’s Wednesday Night Market (heather irwin)

The market opened a couple weeks ago for the season, and we’re excited to see some new faces, and even more excited to find a reason to eat our way through the nearly 50 food stalls and trucks. A quick first pass turned up some awesome finds: Anello Family Crab and Seafood are serving salmon and crab from their boat; Haute Gypsy with arepas, cubanos and a pork belly BLT, Gerard’s Paella and Adobos n’More who are serving authentic Filipino chicken adobo, lumpia and rice.

Though they’re not new to the market, S’Wine Country BBQ killed it with their Pig Pen ($8), a gut-busting sausage topped with pulled pork, mango cole slaw and fried onions. Their beans are better than my mom’s (sorry mom) with sweet and heat, and the mango jalapeno slaw is also a stunner. We waited patiently in the mile-long line for Pacheco’s Roasted Corn, slathered with mayo, cojeta cheese and chili powder. If you haven’t tried this Mexican street food, make a bee line, because you’re going to become a fan.

This is a perfect piece of roasted corn with all the toppings from a recent trip to SF's Gott's Roadside (heather irwin)
This is a perfect piece of roasted corn with all the toppings from a recent trip to SF’s Gott’s Roadside (heather irwin)

Biteclub’s ready for a second date, Wednesday night…

The market runs each Wednesday evening from 5-8:30p.m. through Aug. 17, wednesdaynightmarket.org.

Calm is Brewing at The Taste of Tea

Imagine sitting in a comfortable chair, cup of tea in hand and surrounded by Japanese decor, soft lighting and the peaceful sounds of burbling water. A warm herbal-tea neck wrap gently brings the shoulders down to a relaxed state, feet sigh “ahhhh” in a tea soak, and tension melts away under a facial mask.

The relaxation room at The Taste of Tea in Healdsburg offers this healing retreat, leaving guests feeling rejuvenated and refreshed, skin aglow from green tea’s antioxidant properties. The Shinwa spa package ($75) is an hour’s worth of whole-body heaven.

Part cafe, part tea tasting room and part day spa, The Taste of Tea offers opportunities for relaxation at every turn. Sip at the bar, watch a mixologist prepare tea beverages (including nonalcoholic MarTEAnis), or find a table in the comfy lounge and enjoy ramen and small-plate dishes.

It’s the creation of Donna and Nez Tokugawa, who met in the financial world and retired to Bodega Bay. The couple quickly became experts in all things tea, fascinated, they said, by the health benefits of loose-leaf tea. Their menu reads like a wine list, with teas grouped by desired mood effect rather than varietal. With more than 80 types of Chinese, Japanese and Taiwanese teas, the shop has “docents” who make suggestions based on whether customers want to feel energized or relaxed. A specialty is an exclusive blend of matcha (finely ground green tea) served by the shot, traditional bowl and as a latte.

109 North St., Healdsburg, 707-431-1995, thetasteoftea.com

Taste of Tea Sonoma County

The Big Chill: New Rain Tunnel at Fairmont Sonoma

Regulars of the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa’s Willow Stream Spa are familiar with the six-step “bathing ritual,” where guests take full advantage of the thermal mineral waters common in the area. An exfoliating shower, a soak in two mineral-water pools, and herbal steam and dry-sauna treatments are followed by one of several cool-down showers.

Now there’s a chilling change. The final showers have been replaced by something much more luxurious: the Rain Tunnel. And it leaves many guests shrieking, just a little.

Photo courtesy of Willow Stream Spa at Sonoma Mission Inn.
Photo courtesy of Willow Stream Spa at Sonoma Mission Inn.

The tunnel is a multifaceted glass shower that allows guests to “take the waters” in several whimsical ways. The experience is a blend of ancient healing ritual and state-of-the-art technology. Fed by artesian mineral water, an overhead mist gently hydrates the face. Move next to the dancing waters spurting from a river-rock floor. Then it’s on to a waterfall that cascades over the shoulders, designed to wash away tension and stress.

It’s the final step that gets the biggest reaction, and one not necessarily associated with a relaxing experience. A strategically placed wooden bucket with a cord attached is perched overhead. Those brave enough to pull the cord are doused with cold water, and many let out an involuntary screech —and a few laughs — breaking the silence of the otherwise tranquil setting. It’s a playful twist on the typical spa experience.

100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma, 877-289-7354, fairmont.com/sonoma