Beef Combination Pho Soup with steak, flank, brisket trip & meatball from VN Flavor restaurant Wednesday, August 3, 2025 in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Sovandy Kien and her husband, Nouly Chhem, fell in love over food — pork fried rice, to be specific.
As young sweethearts in Cambodia, Chhem won over Kien with his repertoire of recipes. A self-taught cook, he had a knack for making friends through food, but it was a simple stir-fry of rice, soy sauce, vegetables and pork that stole Kien’s heart.
Her dream of opening a restaurant and his love of cooking aligned like stars. But when her family moved to Northern California eight years ago, he continued a cooking career in Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia and Korea.
It would be nearly a decade before the couple opened their first American restaurant with the help of Kien’s sister, Kanha.
One of Sovandy Kien’s sisters, Maliza Kien, adds wise sayings to her Paradise Lime drink and other tea drinks because “I’m wise like that,” said the future social media star Wednesday, Aug. 3, 2025, in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
A dream realized
In late May, Kien and Chhem opened VN Flavor in a quiet corner of Raley’s Towne Center in Rohnert Park. A rotating cast of restaurants have occupied the space over the last five years, including an Asian bistro, a burger café and a bagel bakery.
That led to more questions. Why would the Kien sisters open competing restaurants with similar menus?
The answer is simple, said Kien with a broad smile. After several years working at Savor, Kanha encouraged the couple to open their own restaurant in Rohnert Park, even helping fund the dream.
“I kept saying we weren’t ready,” said Kien. “But my husband said, ‘Trust me. I want to show people what I have.’”
VN Flavor restaurant married co-owners Sovandy Kien, right, and Nouly Chhem Wednesday, Aug. 3, 2025, in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
A place of their own
The restaurant kitchen, with its noise and heat, is tucked away in the back, where Chhem reigns over pots of broth and a fiery grill. His garde manger is stocked with crushed peanuts, fragrant basil, limes, pickled carrots, cilantro and bean sprouts that garnish his flavor-packed dishes.
“When I’m cooking, I’m always thinking about my customers. I need to make it beautiful,” Chhem said. And it is.
House Special Combo with barbecue lemongrass pork, egg roll and crispy shrimp over rice noodles and a Monkey Strawberry Smoothie. From VN Flavor restaurant Wednesday, Aug. 3, 2025, in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
But the L-shaped dining room has always been at odds with its function. The narrow seating area and spacious foyer work well for takeout, but previously felt disjointed for dining in. Kien has bridged that gap by personally bringing the steaming bowls of pho, crisp banh mi and sizzling short ribs to each table — creating a more connected experience.
“I just want to see this keep growing,” she said. “I hope we can open another (restaurant), maybe some day in Petaluma. But for us, it isn’t about the money. We really care about every customer.”
Best bets
Beef Combination Pho Soup with steak, flank, brisket trip & meatball from VN Flavor restaurant Wednesday, Aug. 3, 2025, in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Beef Combination Pho, $18: A long-simmered beef bone broth makes up the base for this hearty pho, filled with rice noodles, flank steak, brisket, meatballs and tripe. I’ve always shied away from beef pho due to its sometimes overpowering “cow” flavor, but Chhem’s clear, clean broth is soul-satisfying with its gentle fragrance and warm spices. The meat isn’t overly fatty, and the tripe has a satisfying chew without off flavors. I’m also a massive fan of the Wonton Egg Noodle Soup ($17), made with an 8-hour simmered chicken broth, pork-filled wontons and soft egg noodles.
BBQ Lemongrass Pork Bahn Mi Sandwich and Taro Milk Tea from VN Flavor restaurant Wednesday, Aug. 3, 2025, in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Banh Mi, $13: The defining element of a great banh mi is the perfect baguette. Commercial soft rolls are too soft and crusty French baguettes are too hard. Kien bakes fresh mini baguettes every morning, with a gentle crisp crust and a pillow-soft interior that hits that Goldilocks zone. VN Flavor skips the traditional pâté on the baguette (which is a bummer, but not a deal-breaker), replacing it with a more American-friendly garlic mayo. The barbecue lemongrass pork is my favorite, but tofu, spicy pork, braised pork belly, crispy chicken and five-spice chicken are also available. Pickled carrots and daikon elevate this from a simple sando to a top-notch Vietnamese banh mi. Watch out for the sneaky jalapeños.
Korean BBQ Short Ribs, $22: At first, I ignored this entrée, but it turns out to be one of Chhem’s signature dishes. Thin flanken-style short ribs, cut across the bone, are marinated in a sweet-savory soy sauce and quickly flame-grilled. Crispy char and tender meat make this a finger-licking must-try.
Korean BBQ Short Ribs from VN Flavor restaurant Wednesday, Aug. 3, 2025, in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Spicy Basil Fried Rice, $20: Spicy, wonderful fried rice that’s even better the next day. Like all fried rice.
House Special Vermicelli Noodle, $20: Cold rice noodles, shredded lettuce, barbecue pork, shrimp and a sliced egg roll doused in nuoc mam cham (a sweet, citrusy fish sauce) is my desert island meal. I could eat it every day and never tire of the sweet, sour, fatty, crispy, noodly wonder that is bún.
A Vietnamese dessert parfait with coconut cream, lychee, brown sugar, daong, grass jelly, red peals, red bean and garbanzos. From VN Flavor restaurant Wednesday, Aug. 3, 2025, in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Vietnamese Desert, $9.95: Many Southeast Asian countries have a version of Chè Ba Màu, a refreshing drink made with crushed ice, coconut cream, lychee, brown sugar, daong, grass jelly, red beans and garbanzos. It’s not for everyone, but I love it (without the garbanzos).
VN Flavor is at 90 Raley’s Towne Center, Rohnert Park, 707-843-7585. No website; go to bit.ly/4laGOfq for online orders.
A notable addition to Sonoma’s real estate inventory is the home of astronaut Russell “Rusty” Schweickart, who piloted the Apollo 9 lunar module that made way for the Apollo 11 moonwalk. The well-traveled Schweickart settled on a sweet patch of earth on Sonoma’s east side, where he has called home since 2000.
The three-bedroom, three-bathroom, 3,071-square-foot dwelling is now listed for $2,500,000.
At the entrance, the light-drenched, high-ceilinged foyer shines in this circa-1991 home. A grand double staircase leads to the upstairs, which includes a library.
Foyer with double staircase in the Sonoma home of Apollo 9 astronaut Russell “Rusty” Schweickart. (Daniel Wilson / Photovino)Orangerie with French and transom windows, plus skylights, in the Sonoma home of Apollo 9 astronaut Rusty Schweickart. (Daniel Wilson / Photovino)
An orangerie — a home addition designed to serve as a greenhouse — has repeating French and transom windows, plus skylights. The structure creates a light-flooded seating area with generous views to the gardens and, predictably, the stars.
The home includes an updated kitchen. The grounds are lush with mature plantings.
For more information on this home at 760 Fifth St. E. in Sonoma, contact listing agent Kathleen Leonard, Compass Real Estate, 135 W. Napa St., Suite 200, Sonoma, 707-287-4314, kathleenleonard.com, compass.com
This circa-1867 Queen Anne — the former home and office of Occidental’s first doctor — is currently listed for $1,399,999. (Peter Lyons)
A circa-1867 Queen Anne — the former home and office of Occidental’s first doctor — is currently listed for sale. Originally built as a mock-up for San Francisco Victorians, the renovated 4,052-square-foot historic home has six-bedrooms, two bathrooms and multiple auxiliary spaces. The asking price is $1,399,999.
Classic details include claw-foot tubs, two stories of wraparound porches, wainscoting and rosettes, dormers and shingles. With a modernized tranquil interior — evoking a type of Nancy-Meyers vibe — comfort, beauty and history merge nicely in this dwelling.
Living room with fireplace in the historic Queen Anne, which was the home of Occidental’s first doctor. (Peter Lyons)Renovated kitchen in Occidental home. (Peter Lyons)
The renovated kitchen boasts marble countertops, Thermador appliances and direct access to the porch, which overlooks the garden’s mature trees and roses.
The home’s top floor gives views to the tiny town and rolling hills. A full basement offers more usable space below.
The carriage house, wherein the doctor saw patients, has been reframed and could serve as an office or workout space. Beneath the carriage house is a renovated studio that’s ready to serve as a rental unit.
For more information on this home at 14952 Coleman Valley Road, Occidental, contact listing agent Emily Beaven, 415-730-9759, Compass,compass.com
A Strawberry Cheesecake Premium Roll at Pink Sugar Creamery in Santa Rosa. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Summer is the perfect excuse for eating ice cream, drinking slushies, and not giving a hoot about the calories because you’ll certainly sweat them off, right? And while there are more than a dozen usual suspects when it comes to favorite summer sweets, this list goes a little deeper, featuring new and unexpected spots to quench your cravings.
Best Boozy
A bartender fills a mug with beer from one of many taps at Cooperage Brewing in downtown Santa Rosa, Friday, Dec. 20, 2024. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
Cooperage Brewing
On a hot day, nothing beats a cold beer — unless it’s a hard seltzer slushy. This Santa Rosa brewery’s seasonal Sparklepants seltzer releases are spun into icy, dangerously delicious drinks that beat the summer heat with a sneaky kick. A tropical moment on sweltering days. 981 Airway Court and 575 Ross St., Santa Rosa. 707-293-9787, cooperagebrewing.com
Best Seasonal Selection
Darling Ice Cream Shop
The always-changing flavors at this charming Sonoma ice cream shop mean you’ll have plenty of reasons to return. A sister shop to Sweet Scoops on the Sonoma Plaza, this neighborhood fave is known for its Watmaugh strawberry, salted caramel and, if you want to go the soft-serve route, a sunny Pineapple Dole Whip. 201 W. Napa St., Suite 6, Sonoma. 707-343-1482, darlingsonoma.com
Mila, 9, and her brother Caden, 10, enjoy an ice cream cone at their parents Joe and Ramie Hencmann’s ice cream shop, Darling, located in the Sonoma Marketplace shopping center on West Napa Street. (Robbi Pengelly/Sonoma Index-Tribune)Flights of soft serve and slush at Once Upon a Slush in downtown Petaluma. (Houston Porter/for the Petaluma Argus-Courier)
Best Pickle Slush
Once Upon a Slush
More like Italian ice than a Slurpee, these Boston-style slushes need a spoon — at least to start. And yes, they have a pickle slush that tastes precisely like a pickle. Not feeling that adventurous? Go for fruit flavors like cherry or orange creamsicle and add sprinkles, drizzles and layers of soft-serve ice cream for the full experience. 122 B American Alley, Petaluma. 707-763-9253, onceuponaslush.com
Best Halo-Halo
Halo-halo at Tambayan Filipino restaurant in Santa Rosa’s Larkfield neighborhood. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Tambayan Filipino Eatery
The name of this traditional Filipino dessert means “mix-mix” in Tagalog, and what a mix it is. This colorful combination of crushed ice, evaporated milk, coconut strips, sweet beans, fruit jellies and a scoop of purple yam ice cream is — trust me on this — the most surprisingly delicious dessert you’ve probably never had before. 600 Larkfield Center, Larkfield-Wikiup. 707-843-3824, tambayaneatery.com
Best Rolled
A Rainbow Signature Roll topped with candy and Fruity Pebbles at Pink Sugar Creamery in Santa Rosa Tuesday, May 20, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Pink Sugar Creamery
Ice cream is a treat in any form — it just seems more delicious in scroll-like rolls. At the former Yogurt Farms, wall-to-wall pink decor (including swings with fuzzy pink seats) sets the stage for rolled ice cream, a street-food treat from Thailand. Here’s how it works: A cream mixture is poured onto chilled steel plates that almost instantly freezes it. Dual spatulas then chop, pulverize and blend in candy, cookies, fruit or cake before the mixture is spread into a thin layer and finally scraped into tight, frozen curls. Fun for the whole family. 1224 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. 707-368-3200, Instagram.com/pinksugarcreamery
Best Ice Cream Sando
Sebastopol Cookie Company
It’s all about the cookies at this hole-in-the-wall bakery. Fresh chocolate chip cookies are outstanding on their own, but in the summer, they add an ice cream middle. Just like milk and cookies, but better. 168 N. Main St., Sebastopol. 707-824-4040, sebastopolcookiecompany.com
Lynzie Brodhun, left, and her sister Lexi Brodhun drink beer and listen to live music at Brewster’s in Petaluma on Sunday, September 9, 2018. (Beth Schlanker/ The Press Democrat)
Locally made craft beer and seasonal cuisine are already a perfect match. Throw in some live (mostly free) music, and you’re in store for a great night out.
From brewpubs and beer gardens to roadside diners and artsy cafes, check out our list of over a dozen places in Sonoma County to eat local cuisine while listening to live music.
Brewsters Beer Garden
With fire pits, heat lamps and ample room for dancing, this open-air restaurant and beer garden is a great venue to enjoy free, weekly live music and Southern-style barbecue. Bands play from 5-8 p.m. on Thursday and Friday; from 1-4 p.m. and 5-8 p.m. on Saturday; and from noon to 3 p.m. and 4-7 p.m. on Sunday. The family-friendly restaurant also has a kids play area and welcomes dogs on the outdoor patio. 229 Water St., Petaluma, 707-981-8330, brewstersbeergarden.com
Lagunitas Brewing Co.
This local brewhouse has over a dozen house beers on tap and a simple menu of classic American cuisine, all best enjoyed outdoors while taking in the annual Live at Lagunitas summer concert series, with shows happening every weekend from June to September. Most shows are free but require tickets to reserve a spot; tickets can be purchased on Eventbrite. There’s also music bingo from 6-8 p.m. every Thursday. 1280 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-778-8776, lagunitas.com
Visitors lounge on the amphitheater lawn before the evening’s concert at Lagunitas Brewing Company in Petaluma. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)Enjoy a variety of live music every night at The Big Easy while snacking on late night food from its sister restaurant, Speakeasy. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)
The Big Easy/Speakeasy
Enjoy a variety of live music every night at The Big Easy while snacking on late night food from its sister restaurant, Speakeasy. The nightly live bands at The Big Easy typically start around 7-8 p.m. and the cover charge ranges from free to $20. Speakeasy’s full dinner menu, including a selection of local wines and craft beers, is available from opening to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and until midnight Friday and Saturday. 128 American Alley, Petaluma, 707-776-7163, bigeasypetaluma.com; 139 Petaluma Blvd. N., Suite B, Petaluma, 707-776-4631, speakeasypetaluma.com
The Block
Petaluma’s food truck hub and beer garden also serves as an event venue featuring regular live music in addition to open mics and DJ nights. Bands typically perform from 6-9 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. 20 Grey St., Petaluma. 707-775-6003, theblockpetaluma.com
Sharing the summertime vibe at The Block in Petaluma. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
HenHouse Brewing Co.
In addition to trivia and DJ nights, HenHouse throws rocking shows to enjoy with a pale ale in one of its colorful taprooms. The Santa Rosa location is hosting a release party to celebrate the return of its Avian Surveillance Division IPA — featuring a lineup of Sonoma County punk rock bands — from 6-10 p.m. Friday, Aug. 8. Later this month, HenHouse’s Palace of Barrels taproom in Petaluma will host the Howling Coyote Tour during its Northern California stop, from 2-5 p.m., Aug. 31. Make a trip to the Novato location (1301 Grant Ave.) for its monthly music showcase featuring local musicians, held 5-8 p.m. on the first Tuesday of every month. 1333 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 322 Bellevue Ave., Santa Rosa, henhousebrewing.com
A live music event at HenHouse Brewing’s Palace of Barrels taproom in Petaluma. (Sonoma County Tourism)Ricky Ray performs at Hopmonk Tavern in Sebastopol on Wednesday, March 24, 2021. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
HopMonk Taverns and Twins Oaks
Come for the craft beer and elevated pub grub, stay for the lively concerts held every week. Most of HopMonk’s live music can be enjoyed in the charming beer garden, enhanced with stringed lights, fire pits and space heaters, while some other shows are played inside the cozy, rustic tavern. Twin Oaks Roadhouse, owned by HopMonk, also hosts live music concerts as well as free karaoke nights every Wednesday. HopMonk Sebastopol: 230 Petaluma Ave., Sebastopol, 707-829-7300; HopMonk Sonoma: 691 Broadway, Sonoma, 707-935-9100; Twin Oaks Roadhouse: 5745 Old Redwood Highway, Penngrove, 707-795-5118, hopmonk.com
Brew Coffee and Beer House
Aside from some occasional live music pop-ups (keep an eye on the cafe’s Facebook for upcoming events), Brew hosts weekly open mic nights featuring local musicians, comedians and poets. Open mics are from 5-8 p.m. every Tuesday. 555 Healdsburg Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-303-7372, brewcoffeeandbeer.com
Shady Oak Barrel House
Live music, comedy shows, trivia and paint nights are in store at this taproom, which also includes a rotating roundup of food trucks to match local cuisine with craft brews. Upcoming events can be found online. Most live concerts are free and happen from 7-10 p.m. 420 First St., Santa Rosa, 707-575-7687, shadyoakbarrelhouse.com
The Shady Oak Barrel House in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Flagship Taproom
For good times with friends and family, Flagship’s Santa Rosa location is the spot to enjoy craft beers, barbecue, Wednesday trivia nights and live bands on weekends. 446 B St., Santa Rosa, 707-541-6716, flagshiptaproom.com
Belly Left Coast Kitchen & Taproom
The popular downtown Santa Rosa taproom hosts free live music on the outside patio on select nights. Check for upcoming events online. 523 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-526-5787, bellyleftcoastkitchenandtaproom.com
At Crooked Goat Brewing’s taproom in Petaluma. (Sonoma County Tourism)
Crooked Goat Brewing
Locally sourced food, brews and tunes are on tap at Crooked Goat. The Sebastopol location is hosting a free summer concert series, with bands playing from 5-8 p.m. every Saturday, Aug. 2 through Sept. 13. There are also a number of events held at both Petaluma and Sebastopol locations each month, including bingo, open mics, speed dating and trivia nights. 120 Morris St., Sebastopol, 707-827-3893; 110 Howard St., Petaluma, 707-559-5691, crookedgoatbrewing.com
Altamont General Store
The Altamont Yard, Altamont General Store’s outdoor lounge area, is a bohemian space to snack, sip and enjoy live music from 6-8 p.m. every Friday. Learn about upcoming acts from Altamont’s event calendar. 3703 Main St., Occidental, 707-874-6053, altamontgeneralstore.com
Little Saint
Healdsburg’s premier plant-based restaurant hosts free live music starting at 7 p.m. every Thursday at its upstairs event venue, The Second Story. Guests can enjoy cocktails and vegan bites while watching a show, curated by music director Jonny Fritz. While most shows are free, some bigger-name acts are ticketed, such as the upcoming Beck solo show (Aug. 10) and Rufus Wainwright solo show (Sept. 9). Find Little Saint’s music lineup here. 25 North St., Healdsburg, 707-433-8207, littlesainthealdsburg.com
Boygenius fans line up before a sold-out show at Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative)Boygenius plays at Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative)
The Elephant In the Room
This 21-and-over-only watering hole in Healdsburg is known for its speakeasy vibe, long beer list and weekly live music shows. The August music roster is filled with Bay Area bands spanning genres from rock and blues to hip-hop and psychedelic funk. Shows typically start between 6-8 p.m. and tickets range from free to $20. 177 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, elephantintheroompub.com
La Tequila Mexican Restaurant
For the past three years, local Latin jazz quartet The Rice & Bean Project has been performing fan-favorite jazz, reggae and oldies from 5:30-8:30 p.m. every Friday at Cloverdale’s La Tequila. Savor Mexican eats while enjoying the band’s easy listening sounds either on the outdoor patio or inside by the fireplace on colder evenings. 134 N. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 707-669-2363, mexicanrestaurantcloverdale.com
Geyserville Gun Club
Enjoy bar bites and seasonal cocktails while taking in free, local live music, starting at 8 p.m. on Saturdays. No cover charge. 21025 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0036, geyservillegunclub.com
Rancher Kevin Lunny opens a gate in preparation for his family’s final roundup of cattle, Saturday, May 17, 2025, at Point Reyes National Seashore. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Early dawn on Point Reyes brings another sunrise without a sun, the May fog shrouding this Saturday as winds whip up like they often do out on the peninsula.
“It’s all I’ve ever known,” says rancher Kevin Lunny. He’s talking about the wind, the light, the smell of cows, the scent of salted air off the sea — almost every detail in his life — as he drives a 4×4 into the pasture where his grandfather first set foot in 1946.
An executive at Pope and Talbot in San Francisco, Joe Lunny Sr. was a steamship man, not a farmer. But after buying a run-down dairy on the Historic G Ranch, he learned, often the hard way, from old family ranchers nearby, like the Kehoes and the Mendozas, who had worked the land long before he arrived. His son, Joe Lunny Jr., who was 17 at the time — he’s now 94 — remembers, “I came out here as greenhorn as you can be.”
With daughter Ginny Cummings, Joe Lunny waves to family as they arrive for the family’s last cattle roundup, Saturday, May 17, 2025. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Over these past few weeks, everything Kevin Lunny does, whether closing a pasture gate or fixing a fence wire or taking an evening walk down to Abbotts Lagoon with his wife Nancy — he keeps asking himself, will this be the last time?
Today, at least, one thing appears sure: This is the final cattle roundup at Lunny Ranch. The last time he’ll ever bring cows into corrals and separate them. He’s known this day might arrive sooner than later, for years now.
“But it’s still hard,” he says.
More than a decade ago, when he lost a long-shot bid to renew the federal lease inside Point Reyes National Seashore for his Drakes Bay Oyster Company, he had a premonition this day might come. After the seashore was created in 1962, with provisions for pastoral and wilderness lands, the longtime ranching families were reluctant to sell their land to the federal government, even with agreements to lease the land back.
Kevin Lunny’s pants bear the brunt of ranch work at Point Reyes National Seashore, Saturday, May 17, 2025. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Over the decades, those agreements came increasingly under fire from environmental groups who want more of the park turned over to wilderness and wildlife. After years of lawsuits and mediation between ranchers, environmental groups, and the National Park Service, which owns the land, the park is effectively shutting down the farm Lunny grew up on, one of a dozen set to close by next year under a voluntary buyout brokered by The Nature Conservancy.
Lunny, a frontman in many of the biggest fights over the seashore in the past decade, doesn’t want to argue over the details anymore. He held out as long as he could. Finally, his father came to him and said, “I think we have to come to a yes. I don’t want to see it kill you.”
In January, he was the last of 12 ranchers to sign the settlement, which includes a reported $30-million payout to the ranchers who agreed to leave the land forever by next spring.
Now, Lunny looks out on the pasture where his grandkids, other family, and old friends make wide sweeps on dirt bikes, horseback, and 4x4s, leading the cattle toward the corrals.
Bob Lunny, son of Kevin Lunny at Point Reyes National Seashore, drinks coffee prior to his participation at the last roundup on the Lunny Ranch, Saturday, May 17, 2025. Bob made the trip from his home in Memphis for the gathering. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)Callie, 11, and her mom Kristen Cummings move cattle in to a pen during a last roundup of cattle on the Lunny Ranch at Point Reyes National Seashore, Saturday, May 17, 2025. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
“We’ve never had this many people to gather cows in our life,” he says. “It’s really kind of everybody in the family coming together. It’s very emotional for everybody. It shows you how this place has been meaningful for generations.”
His daughter Brigid Mata, who has worked the farm since she was a child, says she originally thought maybe the last roundup should just be small and super-intimate. “But my dad said, you know, everyone has memories here. Everyone wants to be a part of it.”
On this final roundup, there are 90 mother cows, 30 bred heifers, 85 calves — many that will relocate to a pasture in southern Oregon for now. And 55 2-year-olds going to slaughter.
Cattle are pushed through a gate for a pregnancy check and electronic tag, Saturday, May 17, 2025, during a last roundup of cattle on the Lunny Ranch at Point Reyes National Seashore. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)Joe Lunny and daughter Pamela Lunny react as Joe hangs on to his hat during a windy last roundup of cattle, Saturday, May 17, 2025. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Over the next few hours, friends and family from as far and wide as Tennessee, Washington and all over California, will lend a hand helping sort cattle while a vet does pregnancy checks on mother cows. Mata will attach new ear tags on the cows going to Oregon, and Nancy Lunny will log every detail from the vet checks in her notebook. Eventually, empty boxes of doughnuts make way for an open-pit barbecue firing up. It feels like a family reunion, with all the hugs and back-slapping and kids running around.
“On the outside we might be laughing and smiling and carrying on, but on the inside, everyone is sad,” says Kevin Lunny.
His father, Joe Lunny Jr., is taking it the hardest. He’s watching from afar, on the patio of the main house. As people park and walk up the driveway, they stop to pay their respects as if giving their condolences at a funeral. Joe leads them through a room with walls filled with family photos and deer mounts. Nearby, framed on the wall, an old Press Democrat story headline reads, “Ranching in Paradise.”
Over the years, it became anything but that.
Family photos at the Lunny Ranch, Saturday, May 17, 2025, at Point Reyes National Seashore. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)Family and friends of the Lunny family have their portrait made during a last roundup of cattle, Saturday, May 17, 2025. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
“I thought I would die here one day,” says Joe Lunny Jr., choking back tears as he reaches out to the land with one arm.
Will he ever return to visit?
“Why would I?” he says.
By this time, in the thick of summer, Kevin and Nancy Lunny plan to be settled down in their new home on 10 acres near Auburn. His father will split time with them and his sisters, who live in Penngrove and McCloud near Mt. Shasta.
On the farm outside Auburn, there’s a pond stocked with bass and bluegill that his grandkids love to fish. Kevin Lunny thought he would have a hard time adjusting to such a quiet place, without the constant sound of the ocean and harsh winds he grew up with in Point Reyes. But a creek running through the property “that babbles year-round” has filled any void. He also kept a few cows, because he says it would be hard to live without them, and he has a barn.
Kevin Lunny runs to secure a gate during the last roundup of his family’s cattle, Saturday, May 17, 2025, at Point Ryes National Seashore. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Lunny has promised to stay involved in the ongoing battle over ranching in the park and help other ranchers in need. Lately, there have been rumblings that bureaucrats in Washington might reverse the deal that ended ranching in the park. If that happened, would he be interested in coming back to Point Reyes?
“In a heartbeat,” he says. “We’d do it in a second.”
But he already spent the money.
“We signed a contract,” he says. “We committed never to come back.”
The outdoor area of The Block in Petaluma. Photographed on Wednesday, April 17, 2025. (Crissy Pascual/Petaluma Argus-Courier)
Summer is for beer gardens. Fortunately, Sonoma County has them in abundance, with the Wine Country bonus of excellent beer and top-notch food. Here are some favorites if you’re craving an afternoon of brews with your crew.
Twin Oaks Roadhouse
The fried chicken sandwich at Twin Oaks Roadhouse on Old Redwood Highway in Penngrove. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
In continuous operation since 1926, this ramshackle-looking roadhouse and watering hole is one of Sonoma County’s best-kept secrets. Owned by HopMonk Tavern, well-known for its beer gardens in Sebastopol, Sonoma, and Novato, Twin Oaks has kept its historic charm while offering stellar fried chicken sandwiches and live entertainment for those who appreciate its charms. (The property is currently listed for sale.) 5745 Old Redwood Highway, Penngrove. 707-795-5118, hopmonk.com/twin-oaks
Lagunitas Taproom
Visitors lounge on the amphitheater lawn before the evening’s concert at Lagunitas Brewing Company in Petaluma. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Sink into the trippy scene that is Lagunitas, through and through. The tap room and “beer sanctuary” is a casual spot hidden in the shadows of the brewery complex. There’s great pub grub, a swag-filled gift shop, a small music venue, and the hoppy IPAs that have made them famous. 1280 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma. 707-284-1020, lagunitas.com
Brewsters Beer Garden
The most beer-garden-y beer garden in Sonoma County. Big enough for an Oktoberfest crowd with loads of picnic tables, live music, plenty of beer (and cocktails), with kids and dogs welcome. Plus, solid eats. 229 Water St., Petaluma. 707-981-8330, brewstersbeergarden.com
Brewsters Beer Garden in Petaluma is ready for Oktoberfest on Wednesday, Sept. 25, 2024. (Crissy Pascual / Petaluma Argus-Courier)At Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (Old Caz Beer)
Old Caz
Most breweries are bare-bones places with a funky college-dorm aesthetic and sticky tables — and we like it that way! But Old Caz has upped its game with a swanky new spot with high ceilings, matching chairs, hand-built tables, and usable bathrooms. Wow! The lunchtime bar menu and top-notch food trucks are the cherry on top. Don’t worry, the butt-kicking IPAs keep it real. 1500 Valley House Drive, Suite 110, Rohnert Park. 707-665-6668, oldcaz.com
Russian River Brewing
If there’s a heaven for beer drinkers, it’s at the 85,000-square-foot Russian River brewery in Windsor. Book a guided tour and tasting, then head to the outdoor beer garden where you can choose from roughly 20 signature brews on tap and a full pub menu. The dog- and kid-friendly patio is a great spot to hang out and dream of next year’s release of Pliny the Younger. 700 Mitchell Lane, Windsor. 707-545-2337, russianriverbrewing.com
Amy and Nathan Booth enjoy drinks while taking in the sunset on the patio at Russian River Brewing Company in Windsor. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)The outdoor area of The Block in Petaluma. Photographed on Wednesday, April 17, 2025. (Crissy Pascual/Petaluma Argus-Courier)
The Block
Hidden behind an auto parts store in an industrial part of Petaluma, The Block is a tiny-but-mighty beer garden with nearly 30 taps and a full cocktail menu. Tacos Don Pepe and Jackie Boy’s Barbecue are on a rotating lineup with Fire Slice pizza served six days a week. 20 Grey St., Petaluma. 707-775-6003, theblockpetaluma.com
Tisza Bistro
At Tisza Bistro’s Beer Garden in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Though it’s just a handful of stout wooden tables and bistro seats beneath draping twinkle lights and Weihenstephan pennants (Germany’s oldest brewery), Munich is in the air at chef Krisztian Karkus’ German and Central European eatery. Grab a Bavarian pretzel, currywurst, or a Weiner schnitzel sandwich and choose from five German beers on tap, plus cans of Stiegl Radler (grapefruit juice and lager) and malty Korbinian. Prost! 165 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. 707-291-5193, tiszabistro.com
Located on the 400-acre Salmon Creek Ranch in Bodega, Eagle’s Nest Treehouse features a wraparound deck, queen bed, bathroom and modern amenities. (Salmon Creek Ranch)
Each year, campsite booking platform Hipcamp honors standout camping destinations across the country. In the recent 2025 Hipcamp Awards, the North Bay made a strong presence. From glamping getaways to rustic farm stays, six properties from Sonoma, Marin and Mendocino counties were recognized this year.
Salmon Creek Ranch, Bodega
A repeat winner in this year’s awards, Bodega’s Salmon Creek Ranch earned two titles: Best Treehouse and Best Hipcamp in California. Set on a 400-acre working ranch just outside Bodega Bay, the property offers a secluded tree house with sweeping forest views, a cozy wood stove and a private deck. Guests can explore redwood groves, visit livestock and enjoy farm-fresh produce during their stay.
A tree house with a view at Salmon Creek Ranch in Bodega. (Silas Fallstich)
The private preserve has an on-site farm store, featuring products such as grass-fed beef sausages and organic duck eggs. There’s also a private picnic area with a firepit and Weber barbeque grill. A stay at Salmon Creek Ranch starts at about $120 per night and goes up to $399 for the unique Eagle’s Nest Treehouse Farmstay — a premium glamping spot. 1400 Bay Hill Road, Bodega, 707-775-9604, salmoncreekranch.com
Finley Camp, Bodega
Also honored in the Best in Every U.S. State category, Finley Camp sits right along Finley Creek in west Sonoma County, just 20 minutes inland from Bodega Bay. The camp features 13 sites with firepits and picnic areas, as well as access to nearby hiking trails. It’s a peaceful base great for groups looking to explore Sonoma County’s coastal charm.
Each campsite at Finley Camp in west Sonoma County includes a firepit and picnic table. Well-behaved dogs on a leash are welcome. (Sonoma County Tourism)
The camp is located on an active cattle ranch, with grass-fed beef available for purchase. The farm also offers orchard tours where guests can pick apples, pears or blueberries (when in season). A stay at Finley Camp starts at around $85–$95 per night. The exact address will be provided after booking to respect the host’s privacy, according to Hipcamp. hipcamp.com
The Deck and Cozy Container, Albion
The Deck and Cozy Container in Albion is a short drive from the Mendocino Coast. (Joel Shawn / Shutterstock)
Near the remote Mendocino coast, The Deck and Cozy Container offers a pared-down, off-grid experience with forest views and ocean air. The converted shipping container, complete with a 2,000-square-foot redwood deck, was named one of Hipcamp’s best in the state this year. Amenities include showers, potable water and cooking equipment, including a kitchenette with a fridge. It’s a low-key escape designed for quiet mornings, coastal hikes and nights under the stars.
A night with four guests at The Deck and Cozy Container is $143. The exact address will be provided after booking to respect the host’s privacy, according to Hipcamp. hipcamp.com
Estero San Antonio Wonderland, Tomales
Camp guests at Estero San Antonio Wonderland in Tomales can bring their own kayak and paddle down the Estero de San Antonio to Dillon Beach, only 3.5 miles away. (David Dines/Western Rivers Conservancy)
Recognized as one of the Best Farmstays in the country, this Marin County site sits on a serene ranch near the Estero de San Antonio waterway. Guests can camp in furnished bell tents or pitch their own, with access to farm animals, peaceful pastures and kayak trips down the river. There are six campsites as well as a farm store.
A stay at Estero San Antonio Wonderland ranges from $67–$94 per night. Learn more about the campsites from host True Grass Farms. The exact address will be provided after booking to respect the host’s privacy, according to Hipcamp. hipcamp.com
Heartwood Mendocino, Mendocino
This camping destination earned a nod in Hipcamp’s Best Glamping Sites category. Located in the hills outside Mendocino, Heartwood blends nature with thoughtful design. The site features three tent/RV sites and eight cabins — each with expansive forest views. Amenities include heated beds, luxe linens, a bath house with redwood tree shower and an outdoor camp kitchen, plus cooking equipment. Trails, rivers and the charming coastal town of Mendocino are all within reach. A night at Heartwood Mendocino goes from $76–$190. 40500 Little Lake Road, Mendocino, heartwoodmendocino.com
Heartwood Mendocino is surrounded by redwood forest with direct access to hiking and biking trails. (Salil Bhatt / Getty Images)Waterfall Camp is nestled on the edge of redwoods and pygmy forests, adjacent to Russian Gulch State Park. (John Burgess)
Waterfall Camp, Mendocino
One of the newest additions to Hipcamp’s roster, Waterfall Camp in Mendocino earned a spot in the Newcomers category for its quiet, back-to-nature charm. Hidden deep in the redwoods and accessible only by a short trail, the camp offers walk-in tent sites beside a gentle creek and a communal fire circle for evening gathering. The namesake waterfall is just steps away, offering a cool, shaded retreat after a day of hiking. With no cell service or crowds, it’s the kind of place that invites you to slow down, listen to the trees and fully unplug.
“Our goal is to make you feel right at home,” hosts Shay and Liz state on the booking site. A night’s stay at Waterfall camp starts at $90. The exact address will be provided after booking to respect the host’s privacy, according to Hipcamp.hipcamp.com
Want to camp right on the beach? Check here for beachfront camping in Sonoma, Mendocino and Marin. Check here for more favorite camping spots in Sonoma County.
Shrimp and pork shumai from dim sum specialist Michelle Wood, the new owner of Jimtown Store, at her home in Santa Rosa, Friday, Jan. 24, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
It took Michelle Wood nearly two years to reopen the former Jimtown Store after purchasing the Alexander Valley property in 2023. Nestled along a quiet stretch of Highway 128, the 132-year-old general store has been a gourmet pit stop for meandering cyclists, curious tourists and vineyard workers for decades. Its weathered plank walls, well-worn wood floors and shady front porch have graced countless Instagram feeds.
In early June, Wood debuted Jimtown & Then Sum, merging her longtime dim sum catering business with the Jimtown legacy. Fans of her handmade dumplings eagerly anticipated shu mai, potstickers and bao at the new location.
But when the doors opened, there was no dim sum at Jimtown & Then Sum.
The daily process of folding, filling and steaming dumplings proved too demanding in the early days of operation. But three weeks after this month’s grand opening — with the new business running smoothly — they are now on the menu.
Shrimp and pork shumai from dim sum specialist Michelle Wood, the new owner of Jimtown Store, at her home in Santa Rosa, Friday, Jan. 24, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)The colorful banh mi sandwich at the new Jimtown & Then Sum in Healdsburg’s Alexander Valley. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
From 11 a.m., the lunch menu features a section dedicated to steamed dumplings, spring rolls, bao buns and a poke bowl, served until sold out, which typically happens within a few hours. The menu also includes a barbecue pork banh mi sandwich and matcha cheesecake bites with honey and ginger.
Traditional deli sandwiches, including Italian subs, muffulettas and chicken curry, are also available, along with morning pastries and cookies.
On a recent Friday during the lunch rush, customers hovered over Wood’s Asian-inspired menu with curiosity. The most frequent question: “What’s an open-faced steamed bao?” (It’s a fluffy, sweet cousin to the taco.)
Shu mai and open-faced bao with tofu at the new Jimtown & Then Sum in Healdsburg’s Alexander Valley. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
By 11:45 a.m., Wood was busy steaming dumplings as the dim sum orders began streaming in.
Standout dishes include her signature shu mai ($14 for six), filled with seasoned pork and shrimp; potstickers ($17 for six), stuffed with vegetables, chicken, or kimchi and tofu; and the open-faced steamed bao ($15), topped with braised pork belly or tofu and finished with hoisin sauce.
There’s also Vietnamese-style spring rolls with rice noodles, Thai basil and shrimp, served with sweet chili or peanut sauce ($14 for three), or veggie-only rolls ($12 for three). A poke bowl with seasoned ahi tuna over sticky rice is $23.
Shrimp rolls with peanut sauce at the new Jimtown & Then Sum in Healdsburg’s Alexander Valley. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
But it’s the pillowy barbecue pork bao buns ($6 each) that make me weak in the knees. Light, squishy and slightly sweet, they’ve got all the starchy satisfaction of Wonder bread, only better. Other fillings include Thai basil chicken, or broccoli and tofu.
Early birds and morning bicyclists will find pastries like apple-cinnamon coffee cake, muffins and scones, along with avocado toast, a breakfast burrito and coffee drinks.
But it’s Wood’s dim sum I’m coming for — finally.
Jimtown & Then Sum, 6706 Highway 128, Healdsburg, 707-756-5022, jimtown.com
1/21/2012: B1:
PC: Jamie Spaletta, prepares to take an order, Friday Jan. 20, 2012 at Volpi’s Ristorante and Historical Bar in Petaluma. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat) 2012
In the restaurant business, it’s saying something to make it through the first year and rare to last more than 10. But in Sonoma County, there are more than a dozen restaurants that have survived well past their 30th year and a handful which have outlasted generations of diners, stretching back more than a century.
These are well-worn eateries that have a proven formula. Most share a common heritage: They were built by Italian immigrants and have continued to serve hearty family-style meals at approachable prices for decades. It’s not a stretch to say that the farms, timber mills, railroads and vineyards of Sonoma County were built on pasta and meatballs. And maybe a steak or two.
We pay homage to several tried and true local restaurants that have stood the test of time and are still going strong.
Stormy’s Spirits and Supper, 1854
Established as a roadhouse, Stormy’s has hosted generations of Sonoma County diners. The restaurant turned into a steakhouse in the early 1970s and remains a family-style dining destination in Bloomfield. Open limited hours Friday through Sunday. Call or check Stormy’s Facebook page for updates. 6650 Bloomfield Road, Petaluma, 707-795-0127, stormysrestaurant.com
Washoe Roadhouse in Petaluma. (Photo by Chris Hardy)Personalized dollar bills hang from the ceiling at Washoe House in Petaluma on Wednesday, Nov. 21, 2018. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Washoe House, 1859
A former stagecoach stop connecting Petaluma, Santa Rosa and Bodega, this historic roadhouse is best known for two things: Dollar bills pinned to the bar ceiling and The Battle of the Washoe House. According to legend, following the 1865 assassination of president Abraham Lincoln, a group of Petaluma militia were intent on creating trouble for Southern-leaning Santa Rosans. Their thirst got the best of them and the group ended up getting drunk instead of rabble-rousing. 2840 Roblar Road, Petaluma, 707-795-4544, washoehouse.site
Union Hotel, 1879
This Occidental restaurant has been around for 146 years. What began as the Union Saloon and General Store grew into a family business, with four generations managing the restaurant over the years. The restaurant serves salads and pizza as well as a fan-favorite bruschetta. Open 4-8 p.m. Friday and noon to 8 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. (Note: The Union Hotel in Santa Rosa has separate ownership and is open daily.) 3731 Main St., Occidental, 707-874-3555, unionhoteloccidental.com.
Madrona Manor, 1881
The historic hotel underwent a major renovation in 2022, reopening as The Madrona. While the property has retained its Victorian past, the restaurant, mansion and guest houses have been infused with a modern, artistic sensibility. Chef Patrick Tafoya oversees the restaurant, offering an upscale dinner menu, relaxed lounge dining and a popular brunch. 1001 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 433-4321, madronamanor.com
Historic photos cover the walls in the bar of the Swiss Hotel on West Spain Street in Sonoma on Thursday, Aug. 4, 2022. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
Swiss Hotel, 1892
Sonoma’s history is etched into the walls of this historic inn, restaurant and bar. An Italian-focused menu reflects the generations of family ownership. 18 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-938-2884, swisshotelsonoma.com
Pick’s Drive In, 1923
One of the oldest hamburger joints in America, this Cloverdale drive-in has been serving up beefy burgers, hot dogs and shakes for over a century. The restaurant sources local produce and meat for its menu, and offers hand-scooped shakes, malts and soft serve with a modern twist. The historic drive-in is currently closed, but new ownership and upcoming renovations were announced in June. 117 S. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale
Volpi’s Ristorante & Bar, 1925
Though it has operated as a grocery for most of its existence, Volpi’s major claim to fame was as a Prohibition-era speakeasy. Locals know that the “secret” bar is still in operation, with a convenient escape door to the alley in case of a raid. Or your ex-wife. The grocery became a full-fledged restaurant in 1992, though there’s still an old Italian grocery vibe with well-worn wooden floors and walls lined with Italian tchotchkes, accordions and candle wax-covered Chianti bottles. 124 Washington St., Petaluma, 707-762-2371, volpisristorante.com
Catelli’s in Geyserville, April 25, 2012. (Jeff Kan Lee / The Press Democrat)
Catelli’s, 1936
Italian immigrants Santi and Virginia Catelli opened Catelli’s “The Rex” in tiny Geyserville as a humble family eatery, serving up spaghetti, minestrone and ravioli. After closing in 1986, the restaurant later reopened in Healdsburg, where it stood until 2004. In 2010, siblings Domenica and Nick Catelli reopened Catelli’s at the original Geyserville location, where it has been host to a number of celebrities, but remains an approachable family-style restaurant. Their paper-thin layers of lasagna noodles make Catelli’s version one of the best in the region. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-7142, mycatellis.com
Dinucci’s Italian Dinners, 1939
Though the building dates back to 1908, when it served train travelers, the current restaurant didn’t open until 1939. Owners Henry and Mabel Dinucci turned it into a welcome stop for hearty family-style Italian dinners. In 1968, Dinucci’s sold to the Wagner family, but some of Mabel’s original recipes are still in use today. The historic interior hasn’t changed much over the years, with red-and-white checkered tablecloths right out of the 1940s. 14485 Hwy. 1, Valley Ford, 707-876-3260, dinuccisrestaurantandbar.com
Flooded street in front of Pat’s Cafe (now Pat’s International) in Guerneville, 1940. Three men paddling canoe and others standing at entrance. (Sonoma County Library)
Pat’s International, 1940
Pat’s in Guerneville has been a reliable Russian River eatery for over 80 years, weathering everything from floods to global pandemics. Late last year, owner David Blomster put the business up for sale, however, the restaurant continues to serve customers. 16236 Main St., Guerneville, 707-604-4007, patsinternational.com
Negri’s, 1942
This family-owned Italian restaurant began as a stopover for train travelers journeying from San Francisco to Eureka. According to restaurant lore, original owner Joe Negri Sr., an Italian immigrant, was once the personal chef for movie legend Rudolph Valentino. After moving to Santa Rosa, he opened Negri’s, which has served traditional Italian pasta dinners ever since, many made using original recipes from the 1930s. Open for dining in the attached Joe’s Bar from 4-8 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 3-8 p.m. Sunday, offering its famous ravioli, burgers, pizza, salads, sandwiches and housemade desserts. 3700 Bohemian Highway, Occidental, 707-823-5301, negrisrestaurant.com
Superburger, early 1950s
Opened as a modest burger shack on the corner of Santa Rosa’s College and Fourth streets in the early 1950s, Superburger has become one of Sonoma County’s go-to family spots for made-to-order char-grilled hamburgers, tater tots, onion rings and old-fashioned milkshakes. Two locations: 1501 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-4016, and 8204 Old Redwood Highway, Cotati, 707-665-9790. originalsuperburger.com
People walk into Mac’s Deli in Santa Rosa on April 23, 1987. Mac Nesmon opened the deli in 1952. (Timothy Baker / The Press Democrat, file)
Mac’s Deli, 1952
Mac’s bills itself as Sonoma County’s oldest continuously operating breakfast and sandwich café. Opened by Mac Nesmon in 1952 as a New York-style deli, it was purchased in 1970 by the Soltani family, who still run the restaurant today. Don’t miss the classic Reuben sandwich. 630 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-3785, macsdeliandcafe.com
Mary’s Pizza Shack, 1959
Mary Fazio opened her first pizzeria in Boyes Hot Springs in 1959 using family recipes and her own pots and pans. Thought Fazio died in 1999, her legacy lives on in the family-owned restaurant chain with locations across the North Bay. maryspizzashack.com
Tide’s Wharf, around in different shapes and forms since the 1950s
Made popular by Alfred Hitchcock’s 1963 thriller “The Birds,” this Bodega seafood restaurant has been a coastal staple for more than 50 years. With sweeping bay views, it remains a magical spot. 835 Bay Highway, Bodega Bay, 707-875-3652, innatthetides.com/tides-wharf-restaurant
Pinky’s Pizza in Petaluma, established in 1962, is a hometown classic pizza joint loved by generations of Petalumans. (Pinky’s)
Opened in the late 1960s, La Casa has seen Sonoma’s transformation from sleepy rural town to bustling tourist destination. The restaurant was purchased in 2015 by the Sherpa Brothers Group, Nepalese restaurateurs who’ve revitalized several local restaurants. La Casa continues to serve simple, traditional Mexican cuisine — if you go, don’t miss the margaritas. 121 East Spain St., Sonoma, 996-3406, lacasarestaurants.com
Betty’s Fish and Chips, 1967
Serving English-style fish and chips and the world’s best lemon pie, Betty’s has been a Santa Rosa favorite for over five decades. The restaurant got a face-lift in 1996 but remains true to its roots. 4046 Sonoma Highway, Santa Rosa, 707-539-0899, bettysfishandchips.com
At Costeaux French Bakery in Healdsburg, Brian Phipps takes a food order from father and daughter diners, Pat Dugan, right and Kelly Dugan, left. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat, file)
Costeaux French Bakery, 1973
In 1973, French natives Jean and Anne Costeaux bought a 1920s-era French American bakery in Healdsburg and renamed it Costeaux French Bakery. Karl and Nancy Seppi purchased the bakery in 1981 with a vision to expand — and Jean taught them the art of bread baking. Today, Costeaux, with additional locations in Santa Rosa and Petaluma, is renowned for its sourdough baguettes, French macrons, princess cake and cinnamon walnut bread. 417 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-1913, costeaux.com
Blue Heron, 1977
The building that houses Blue Heron was originally built in the late 1800s, but the 1906 earthquake destroyed most of Duncans Mills. In 1976, a restoration project revived the town — and with it, the Blue Heron. The restaurant’s expansive menu includes local seafood, burgers, salad and chowder. 25275 Steelhead Blvd., Duncans Mills, 707- 865-2261, blueheronrestaurant.com
Don Taylor’s Omelette Express, 1977
Most weekends, Don Taylor can be found at the door of the original Omelette Express in Santa Rosa, greeting regulars who have made a breakfast at his restaurant a family tradition. Opened in 1977, the all-day breakfast spot has since expanded to Windsor and, in 2018, it went international with a location in JeJu City, South Korea — Santa Rosa’s sister city. Omelets remain a best bet, of course, but there’s plenty more to explore on the menu, including Benedicts, burgers, sandwiches and salads, plus some of the best coffee in town. 112 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-525-1690; 150 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 707-838-6920, omeletteexpress.com
Old Chicago Pizza in Petaluma has been around since 1978, but the original building is from the 1870s with additions in 1911. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Old Chicago Pizza, 1978
Opened by William Berliner in 1978 inside a historic 1870s building, Old Chicago Pizza has become a Petaluma fixture, known for its hearty, deep-dish pies served in a space that reflects the city’s historic charm and offers a second-floor view. 41 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-763-3897, oldchgo.com
La Gare, 1979
Chef Roger Praplan relishes the fact that he’s now serving the grandchildren of some of La Gare’s early customers. His parents, Swiss-born Marco and Gladys Parplan, opened the restaurant in 1979 after purchasing the lot for $25,000 two years earlier. Though dining trends have come and gone since, La Gare has remained steadfast in its approach and was featured on KQED’s “Check, Please! Bay Area” last year for staying “true to its Swiss-French roots.” 208 Wilson St., Santa Rosa, 707-528-4355, lagarerestaurant.com
The John Ash & Co. restaurant in north Santa Rosa, Friday, March 1, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
John Ash & Co., 1980
Long before “farm-to-table” became a culinary catchphrase, John Ash was sourcing local produce, dairy and meat for wholesome, seasonal dishes paired with excellent regional wines. His namesake restaurant helped define Sonoma County’s food identity and launched the careers of many local chefs and winemakers, including Jeffrey Madura, Dan Kosta and Michael Browne. Though Ash has stepped away from the restaurant kitchen, John Ash & Co remains a top dining destination with a recently revamped menu following the renovation of Vintners Resort (where the restaurant is located), now named Vinarosa. 4330 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa, 707-527-7687, vinrosaresort.com
Grateful Bagel, 1981
Founded by East Coast transplants yearning for New York-style bagels, Grateful Bagel opened in 1981 on Mendocino Avenue in Santa Rosa. Within a year, the bakery was distributing its bagels to delis and grocery stores from San Francisco to Fort Bragg. While the original location has since closed, Grateful Bagel locations can be found at 631 Fourth St. and 925 Corporate Center Parkway in Santa Rosa; 300 South Main St. in Sebastopol; 221 N. McDowell Blvd. in Petaluma; and 10101 Main St., Suite A, in Penngrove.
Worth the trip: Tony’s Seafood Restaurant, 1948
For nearly seven decades, this seafood shack overlooking Tomales Bay was run by a Croatian fishing family. By the time it changed hands in 2017, it was a fading relic, but a two-year renovation by the owners of Hog Island Oyster Co. brought new life to the space. Today, Tony’s is a vibrant, modern seafood house with panoramic bay views. 18863 Shoreline Highway, Marshall, 415-663-1107, tonysseafoodrestaurant.com
