Craftsman-Style Home Near the Russian River Listed for $750,000

A Russian River area two-bedroom, one-bathroom Craftsman home is currently listed for sale. The circa-1905 dwelling is listed for $750,000.(Open Homes Photography)
A Russian River area two-bedroom, one-bathroom Craftsman home is currently listed for sale. The circa-1905 dwelling is listed for $750,000.(Open Homes Photography)

Vintage-home enthusiasts have lots to love in a two-bedroom, one-bathroom craftsman-style home on one-third of a forested acre near the Russian River.

The circa-1905 home, known as Fairview, features well-preserved vintage details. It is listed for $750,000.

A wraparound porch offers lounging and dining areas that overlook a dense backdrop of redwoods. 

Russian River home
The wraparound porch offers dining and lounging space with forest views. (Open Homes Photography)

The 1,008-square-foot interior has well-crafted built-ins, columns, and tall wainscoting that exemplify the Arts and Crafts design movement. Light fixtures are vintage-style as well, while the bathroom and kitchens have been updated.

Steps from the home is a studio perfect for workouts, projects or working from home.

For more information on this home at 14804 Canyon 4 Road in Guerneville, contact listing agent Noel Flores, 415-730-0554, noel@continuumrealestate.com, 10 Fourth St., Suite 215, Santa Rosa, continuumrealestate.com

Where To Find the Best Live Music in Sonoma County This Summer

The harmony of sunshine and music is a Sonoma County summer tradition — and always a great chance to explore the scene on decks, patios, lawns and beyond.

Scroll on to read about the best live music happenings in the county this summer.

John Beck contributed to this article.

Sonoma

Sebastiani Vineyards stages live music and lively pours on the patio with the Sunday Afternoon Music Series from 1 to 4 p.m. July through October. 389 Fourth St. East, Sonoma. 707-933-3200, sebastiani.com

Bloom Carneros hosts free live music on the weekends in its garden featuring an eclectic array of musical talent. Upcoming events are held from 2-4 p.m. on July 21, 27 and 28. 22910 Broadway, Sonoma. 707-412-0438, bloomcarneros.com

The patio bar at Bloom Carneros in Sonoma. (Photo: Marielle V. Chua)
The patio bar at Bloom Carneros in Sonoma. (Photo: Marielle V. Chua)

On select Fridays this summer, Patz & Hall Winery is hosting Schellville Sunsets, an evening for guests to sip single vineyard wines, dine on local bites and listen to live music while taking in the sunset. Tickets are $10 per person and include a glass of rosé in a keepsake Patz & Hall GoVino glass. More wine will be available for purchase by the glass or bottle, as well as cheese and charcuterie trays from Sonoma’s Sausage Emporium ($30 each, order 72 hours in advance). Upcoming events will be held from 5:30-7:30 p.m. on July 26 and Aug. 23. Reserve on Tock. 21200 8th St. East, Sonoma. 707-265-7700, patzhall.com

Santa Rosa

Stirring up a musical gumbo, from blues and rock to Latin Jazz and Afrobeat, the Fridays at the Hood series runs through Aug. 23 at the historic Hood Mansion near Hood Mountain Regional Park. It all goes down easy with drinks and food trucks galore. Tickets range from $15–$25. 389 Casa Manana Way, Santa Rosa. fridaysatthehood.com

Billed as “the ultimate Sunday Funday experience,” the Sunday Social Club summer music series at Sugarloaf Wine Co. features a fresh pairing of local bands and local wines. There will also be food trucks, lawn games and an artists’ showcase. Concerts are from 3-6 p.m. Sundays through September. Tickets are $15 per person and can be reserved on Tock. 6705 Cristo Lane, Santa Rosa. 707-244-4885, sugarloafwineco.com

Windsor

Sonoma-Cutrer’s Sunday Funday summer concerts, held from noon to 4 p.m. on July 21 and Aug. 18, features live classic rock and Americana music as guests enjoy food, drinks and lawn games. Tickets are $25 per person and include a glass of wine, cheese and charcuterie, and access to croquet, corn hole and more. Reserve on Tock. 4401 Slusser Road, Windsor. 707-237-3489, sonomacutrer.com

Healdsburg

Breathless Wines’ Bubbles & Music summer music series features an eclectic lineup of jazz, Latin, rock, indie pop and more paired with estate sparkling wine, from noon to 2 p.m. every Sunday through August. Tickets are $10 per person and $5 for wine club members. Reserve on Tock. 499 Moore Lane, Healdsburg. 707-395-7300, breathlesswines.com

The outdoor patio at Breathless Wines in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Breathless Wines)

Bella Winery’s summer music series, Storytellers, explores the musical stylings of cities such as Austin, Nashville and New Orleans along with Dry Creek Kitchen-crafted menus inspired by the regions and local wine pairings. Upcoming events will be held on July 26, Aug. 23 and Sept. 13. Tickets are $175 per person. Find more info and reserve online. 9711 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707-473-9171, bellawinery.com

On select Fridays, Arista Winery hosts its signature summer music series Vineyard Vibes featuring live bands, estate wine and local chef-prepared pizzas baked in a wood-fired oven. Upcoming events will be held from 5:30-8:30 p.m. on July 26, Aug. 16 and Sept. 13. Tickets are $45 per person. Reserve on Tock7015 Westside Road, Healdsburg. 707-473-0606, aristawinery.com

Leo Steen Wines is hosting an evening of live music and barbecue starting at 5 p.m. Aug. 3 at its Healdsburg estate. The local Americana folk group Fitch Mountaineers will perform from 6-8 p.m. and California barbecue fare will be available. There’s no cover fee and seating is first come, first serve. Reserve a spot online. 53 Front St., Healdsburg. 707-974-6822, leosteenwines.com

Geyserville

Catelli’s Backyard Concert Series brings in top local musicians like Steve Pile and Nick Otis (plus occasional touring acts) for lively back-patio jams every Thursday from 6-9 p.m. The best thing? It’s totally free. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville. 707-857-3471, mycatellis.com

West County

There’s plenty of room for dancing in front of the Rio Nido Roadhouse outdoor stage. Expect live music every weekend at this river-rat hangout that staged the 13th annual Bob Dylan celebration and Chuck Prophet’s Summertime Thing festival earlier this summer. Tickets range from free to $25. 14540 Canyon 2 Road, Rio Nido. 707-869-0821, rionidoroadhouse.com

Multiple locations

The third annual Songwriters in Paradise — a weekend festival full of musical talent, seasonal bites and fine wine — will be held from July 24-27 at select north county wineries. The participating wineries include Geyserville’s Banshee and Robert Young and Windsor’s Bricoleur Vineyards and La Crema. Tickets start at $300 for single day passes, $900 for VIP single day passes, $1,200 for a four-day pass and $4,500 for a VIP five-day pass. songwritersinparadise.com

Underground Sonoma County Artist Shares Inspiration Behind Popular Street Art

Sonoma County artist, The Velvet Bandit, a single mother of two children with one of her “Tax the Rich” paintings, Thursday, Sept. 16, 2021. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

Every superhero has an origin story. For Sonoma County’s anonymous Velvet Bandit, it started off innocently enough.

Imagine a 46-year-old school lunch lady going about her daily routine — one day pizza, the next, sloppy joes. Then all of a sudden, a pandemic hits. Laid off, and at home with two kids, she was inspired to try street art for the first time. It felt urgent, like shouting into the void to see if anyone was listening.

So, late one night in March 2020, she pasted up a small painting of a toilet-paper roll with the words “Let’s Roll” under a bridge along the Santa Rosa Creek Trail. “I stood back and thought, ‘Oh my god, that looks so cool,’” she remembers. “Then I went back into my studio and started painting a bunch more. I was instantly hooked.”

Since then, she’s pasted hundreds of vibrant street paintings on alley walls, utility boxes, and street signs from Willits to Los Angeles. They’re often punny (“Not mushroom for hate here” written on a fungus). Sometimes they’re political (“Tax the Rich” on Abraham Lincoln’s face). And other times oddly inspirational, like an award ribbon that reads, “Didn’t quit my job today.”

Santa Rosa-based street artist, The Velvet Bandit, a single mother of two children, displays a "Tax the Rich" painting, Thursday, Sept. 16, 2021. The font and the style of the wording resembles Rep. Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez (D-N.Y.) dress at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute benefit gala on Sept. 13. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2021
Santa Rosa-based street artist, The Velvet Bandit, a single mother of two children, displays a “Tax the Rich” painting, Thursday, Sept. 16, 2021. The font and the style of the wording resembles Rep. Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez (D-N.Y.) dress at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute benefit gala on Sept. 13. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2021

As word spread and fans shared photos on Instagram (where she has more than 10,000 followers), a Petaluma restaurant hired her to paint a window, and a cider company asked her to decorate cans and bottles.

If the artist has to make a public appearance — at an art show or on a vlog, she often wears masks or a pink wig and dark sunglasses. Never revealing her real name (because, well, street art isn’t exactly legal, just ask Banksy), she is still known only as the Velvet Bandit.

What’s in a Name? “One of the very first things I bought for myself after my ex-husband moved out was a green velvet couch. I slowly started acquiring more velvet things, like a velvet throw pillow and a velvet bedspread. One of my friends suggested ‘Velvet Bandit,’ and I loved it because it was feminine, but also with the word ‘bandit’ in it.”

Strange Encounters “I was in a situation where a man came out and said, ‘Hey, what are you doing? Stop that!’ That wasn’t fun. He called me a nut job. Later, I went back, and he had taken the paste-up down that I had put up. So I went back and painted a squirrel that said ‘Nut job.’”

Unexpected Outcomes “People have wanted to Venmo me money, and they didn’t want anything in return. They just wanted to help replenish my supplies because they loved it so much. And that was just mind-blowing to me that people wanted me to do art with nothing in return because they were getting such a kick out of it.”

Family Backing “At first, my kids (ages 13 and 16) thought, ‘What’s Mom doing? This is a little crazy.’ But once they saw that I was getting a little publicity, and people were rallying behind me, then they came on board. Now, they think it’s pretty cool.”

Eat Your Way Through Santa Rosa’s Mitote Food Park This Summer

Mitote Food Park — the tented, outdoor oasis in the heart of Santa Rosa’s Roseland neighborhood — has live music, a mezcal bar and a lineup of food trucks with regional Mexican eats from Yucatan to Baja.

Scroll through our list of favorite eats and sips to get at Mitote Food Park this summer.

665 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa. mitotefoodpark.com

La Churroteka food truck at Mitote Food Park
Churros from La Churroteka food truck at Mitote Food Park in Santa Rosa’s Roseland neighborhood. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Filled churros at La Churroteka

Crispy batons of fried dough rolled in cinnamon sugar and filled with chocolate, strawberry, dulce de leche, or condensed milk.

Tlayuda at Antojitos Victoria

Think pizza, but Mexican style. Cracker crust topped with refried beans, lettuce, tomato, cheese, cilantro, avocado and your choice of meat (we recommend carnitas).

Fish tacos at Pezcow Food Truck

Best known for their seafood, these fried fish tacos are smothered with cabbage, tomatoes, and housemade chipotle sauce.

eats from Mitote Food Park in Santa Rosa
Young children enjoying tacos de hongos (mushroom tacos) from the Lucha Sabina truck during the ribbon cutting celebration of the new Mitote Food Park on Sebastopol Road in the Roseland neighborhood of Santa Rosa, Calif. on Thursday, July 14, 2022. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)
Chicken Panuchos from Yucamami, a food truck in Mitote Park specializing in Yucatecan street food Wednesday, June 5, 2024, in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Chicken Panuchos from Yucamami, a food truck in Mitote Park specializing in Yucatecan street food Wednesday, June 5, 2024, in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Mushroom super quesadillas at Lucha Sabina

These braised mushrooms encased in a flour tortilla with melty cheese are some fun fungi. Known for plant-based dishes, but good barbacoa, too.

Panucho at Yuca Mami

A specialty of the Yucatan, small tortillas are stuffed with refried beans and topped with shredded chicken, pickled red onions, lettuce and tomatoes. A rare find!

La Coquetta cocktails at Mitote Bar

Come for the tacos, stay for the mezcal. The food park’s full bar mixes up some great cocktails, including this sweet-sour concoction that’s a fiesta in a glass.

Where to Go Glamping in Sonoma Wine Country

Glamping tent at Boon Hotel & Spa in Guerneville. (Boon Hotel & Spa)

Sleeping under the stars. Enjoying the great outdoors. Embracing nature. It all sounds wonderful, until you remember that sleeping on the ground isn’t exactly comfortable and that hot showers are a good thing.

In Sonoma County, you can have the best of both worlds — being one with nature during the day and then spending the night in a plush bed. All you need to do is make a reservation at one of the area’s luxe glamping spots. From safari-style tents to shiny Airstreams to towering treehouses, here are a few of our favorites.

Click through the above gallery to explore each glamping spot.

Eagle’s Nest Treehouse Farm Stay at Salmon Creek Ranch

Forget the tent. At Salmon Creek Ranch you can stay in a dreamy treehouse complete with heat, electricity and a bathroom (from $399).

Located on a 400-acre working ranch on the Sonoma Coast, Eagle’s Nest treehouse is accessed via a 30-foot spiral staircase. It features a queen bed, coffee machine and a wraparound deck for lounging on — when you’re not hanging out with the ranch’s resident ducks, cows, goats and livestock guardian dogs.

1400 Bay Hill Road, Bodega, 707-775-9604, salmoncreekranch.com

Sonoma Zipline Adventures in Occidental

Five treehouses, similar to yurts, form an aerial village in redwood treetops on the Alliance Redwoods property in Sonoma’s west county. (There’s also a sixth similar structure on the ground that is ADA compliant and accessible.) Every treehouse stay includes two zipline tours with Sonoma Zipline Adventures — one on the day you arrive and another before you depart.

Dinner and a hot breakfast are included and are delivered via room service. With a queen bed and bunk beds, each treehouse is designed to sleep up to four people. Treehouses also have a sink and compostable toilet.

The cost ranges from $1,046 to $1,932 per treehouse per night, depending on availability and number of guests. Along with the overnight stay and two zipline tours, the stay includes a guided nature hike, gourmet dinner and hot breakfast.

6250 Bohemian Highway, Occidental, 888-494-7868, sonomacanopytours.com

In addition to glamping tents, Boon Hotel & Spa has a vintage camper, the boonito. (Courtesy of Boon Hotel & Spa)

Boon Hotel & Spa in Guerneville

The three glamping tents at this popular Russian River hotel and spa are available May through October (from $199).

Glampers enjoy queen platform beds with organic linens, lanterns and boon breakfasts that include local pastries and French press coffee from Flying Goat Coffee in Healdsburg. There’s also electrical outlets to charge all those gadgets we travel with these days.

In addition to glamping tents, Boon Hotel & Spa has a vintage camper (from $189). The boonito comes with a full bed and is available year-round.

14711 Armstrong Woods Road, Guerneville, 707-869-2721, boonhotels.com

Dawn Ranch in Guerneville

After purchasing neighboring property Fern Grove Cottages and closing for a series of renovations, Dawn Ranch reopened in 2022 with a number of new offerings, including a spa and nine glamping accommodations, available April through October.

The glamping sites are located near the property’s 120-year-old apple orchard. All have premium amenities, including electricity, luxe bedding and personal fire pits. Six of the glamping tents feature a king bed and have shared bathroom facilities (from $203). The remaining three glamping sites boast trailer or cabin-style tents with queen beds, heaters and private bathrooms (from $216).

16467 California 116, Guerneville, 707-869-0656, dawnranch.com

Highlands Resort in Guerneville

Guerneville chef and hotelier Crista Luedtke owns this historic LGBTQ-focused resort together with Christian Strobel, founder of Basecamp Hotels, with boutique properties in South Lake Tahoe, Tahoe City and Boulder, Colorado. (Luedtke also owns Boon Hotel & Spa.)

The Highlands, which has been around since the early 1920s in different iterations, features 11 glamping tents, available from May 1 to Oct. 1 (from $199). The resort also has more than a dozen cabins – each with a different look – and traditional hotel guest rooms.

14000 Woodland Drive, Guerneville, 707-869-0333, highlandresort.com

Airstream trailer at AutoCamp in Guerneville. (AutoCamp Russian River)
At AutoCamp, guests can choose between staying in a sleek Airstream trailer or in a luxury platform tent.

AutoCamp Russian River in Guerneville

At AutoCamp in Guerneville, guests can choose between staying in a sleek Airstream trailer or in a luxury tent.

Luxury tents are available April through October (from $230). Each canvas tent has a queen size bed, an electric blanket for chilly nights, electrical outlets, lights, ice chest and a patio area with a fire pit.

AutoCamp Airstreams come with a queen size bed, a sofa that converts into a full size bed, a full bathroom, a well-stocked kitchen and a patio with fire pit. Choose between the Classic (from $349) and the Premium (from $366) located along a seasonal creek. Dog-friendly Airstreams are available for an extra fee; call for reservations.

AutoCamp’s most budget-friendly glamping accommodation is the Happier Camper (from $210), a 42 square-foot camper featuring a full size bed with plush linens, as well as towels and robes and a private outdoor seating area with a fire pit. Spa-style showers and bathrooms are available in the AutoCamp clubhouse, the property’s take on a hotel lobby.

4120 Old Cazadero Road, Guerneville, 888-405-7553, autocamp.com

Bunk bed tents sleep two adults and up to four children. (Courtesy of Araceli Gonzalez)
Bunk bed tents at Wildhaven Sonoma sleep two adults and up to four children. (Araceli Gonzalez)

Wildhaven Sonoma in Healdsburg

Just steps from the Russian River, this glamping spot has 37 safari-style canvas tents (from $89 off season) and two cabins (from $199 off season) to choose from. All tents are equipped with a bed, linens, heated mattress pads, towels, lights, electric outlets and heaters.

In addition to tents with one or two queen beds, Wildhaven also offers bunk bed tents that include two sets of bunk beds along with a queen bed. Nine more cabins are expected to be completed at the Healdsburg property in the coming months. Well-behaved dogs are welcome for an extra $30 nightly fee per dog (two dogs maximum).

Quiet hours, 10 p.m. to 8 a.m., are strictly enforced. There are clean, communal bathrooms and showers (including outdoor showers if you take a dip in the river) and each site has a picnic table, fire pit and access to a communal cooking area with barbecues and sinks.

Guests can enjoy easy access to hiking trails, patio dining, al fresco wine tasting and other outdoor activities. Alexander Valley wineries, such as Medlock Ames, are just a stone’s throw away.

2411 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, 707-283-7773, wildhavensonoma.com

NewTree Ranch in Healdsburg

This 120-acre biodynamic estate in Healdsburg focuses on wellness and sustainability. The poolside Estate Villa features four bedrooms and a luxury yurt with a wood-burning stove and a pair of photogenic outdoor soaking tubs (from $4,000 nightly, two-night minimum stay).

The smaller Barn Villa features two bedrooms and overlooks a 1-acre farm with fruit trees, vegetables and flowers (from $2,000 nightly, minimum 31-day stay).

NewTree Ranch offers a variety of wellness experiences, such as working the onsite farm, canoeing, paddle boarding, spa treatments and breathing exercises followed by an ice bath (also known as the Wim Hof experience).

3600 Wallace Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-9643, newtreeranch.com

Safari West in Santa Rosa

Go on a safari on Sonoma’s Serengeti, then spend the night in one of 30 luxury tent cabins on the 400-acre African wildlife preserve (from $346). Imported from Botswana, the tents at Safari West boast beds, a bathroom, polished hardwood floors and private viewing decks.

Overnight stays include continental breakfast. Safari West’s tent cabins close during the months of January and February, but safari tours are offered year round.

3115 Porter Creek Road, Santa Rosa, 800-616-2695, safariwest.com

Sugarloaf Ridge State Park in Kenwood

A trio of glamping tents — with a fourth popping up next spring — are tucked away in the campground at Sugarloaf Ridge State Park in Kenwood. Each canvas tent features a queen bed, futon lounge chairs, rugs, tables, lights and some firewood. Ideal for families, two twin beds can be added to each tent. (There’s also room for glampers to set up additional tents; a maximum of eight people are allowed at the campsite.)

Glamping sites include a picnic table, fire ring and outdoor seating, and are within easy walking distance to flush toilets and a bathhouse with coin-operated showers. There is no cell service in the park, but free Wi-Fi is available at the Visitor Center.

Cost is $150 per night Friday and Saturday; $125 per night Sunday through Thursday. There are a few additional fees to be aware of, including a $25 set-up/cleaning fee and an online booking fee. Reservations include parking for one car. Additional vehicles are $10 per night. Bedding is not included, but can be added on with a 48-hour notice.

A two-night minimum stay is required Memorial Day through Labor Day. Glamping tents can typically be reserved mid-April through mid-November, but dates can fluctuate depending on weather.

2605 Adobe Canyon Road, Kenwood, 707-833-5712, sugarloafpark.org

Every Bite’s a Sweet Surprise at New Penngrove Bakery

Odd Cookie Bakery
Giant cookies and over-the-top cupcakes at Odd Cookie Bakery in Penngrove. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

If buttercream had a fan club, I’d be its president and CEO, yet it’s taken me almost three days to get through two-plus inches of lipstick red strawberry frosting atop my Dolly Parton-themed “I Will Always Love You” cupcake.

And not for lack of trying because this is deliciously dense stuff.

Odd Cookie Bakery owner Anna Rodriguez is the wickedly creative confectionist behind this behemoth of a dessert. After getting her pastry degree at Tante Marie Cooking School in San Francisco, she operated a bar and bakery in Sacramento for several years before moving to Sonoma County.

Her pint-size Penngrove cookie and cake shop is all about over-the-top creations, like an eight-item cupcake series devoted to Parton, the country singer and musical icon.

Odd Cookie Bakery in Penngrove
Giant cookies and over-the-top cupcakes at Odd Cookie Bakery in Penngrove. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Interpretations of the country singer’s songbook include: “Bubbling Over” (pink Champagne cake with buttercream bubbles and a yellow rubber ducky); “Baby I’m Burnin” (s’more cupcake filled with marshmallow cream topped with vanilla buttercream and toasted jumbo marshmallows); “I Will Always Love You” (strawberries and cream cake with fresh strawberries and red buttercream); “I Am A Rainbow” (funfetti cake with rainbow buttercream); and “Red, White and Bluegrass” (red velvet cake with red, white and blue buttercream).

Rodriguez also has paid homage to David Bowie and Prince with themed cupcake collections. I’ll be eager to see what she comes up with next. May we suggest singer Jelly Roll?

At Odd Cookie, supersized cookies are equally imposing. They include: “Call Me Old Fashioned” (browned butter cookie rolled in brown sugar and topped with butterscotch chips); “Oreo Speedwagon” (a soft cookie with cookies and cream swirl, cookies and cream Pop Tart center and topped with mini Oreos); “I’m Stuffed” (a cookie packed with Biscoff, white chocolate chips and stuffed with a cookie butter center); and “Chocolate Hazelnut Heaven” (dark chocolate cookie packed with toasted hazelnuts, hazelnut Oreos, chocolate chips, a Nutella center and topped with Ferrero Roche).

Cupcakes and cookies are each $5, which is kind of a steal considering the amount of sugar, butter and cuteness packed into each bite.

Open 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. 10000 Main St., Penngrove, Instagram.com/oddcookiebakery

21 Best Outdoor Dining Spots in Sonoma County

If you’re heading out to the coast, the Wild Poppy offers a creekside, dog-friendly patio with music for brunch on the weekends Saturday, July 13, 2024 on the Bodega Highway west of Sebastopol. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

In temperate Sonoma County, it’s rare to find a dining venue without a lovely patio or sidewalk tables. Still, there are some serious standouts when it comes to offering stellar outdoor spaces and great food.

Here are my picks for shaded patios, prime sidewalk people-watching and sun-dappled gardens worth seeking. As a person prone to severe sunburn, I’ve added a shade score to indicate the coverage you can expect from shades and umbrellas.

Santa Rosa

Spinster Sisters: This outdoor garden is all about wide-open spaces in an urban setting. Enjoy supper and wine beneath colorful sails and twinkling lights. Charming bistro tables and retro picnic benches covered by floral oilcloth match the creative vibe of the SOFA (South of A Street) neighborhood. Chef Liza Hinman creates hyperlocal seasonal California cuisine. Shade score: 6/10. 401 South A St., Santa Rosa, 707-528-7100, thespinstersisters.com

Mitote Food Park: Set in the heart of the predominantly Latino community of Roseland, this happy gathering of food trucks features the flavors of Oaxaca, Jalisco, Michoacan, Yucatán, and Mexico City. There’s also a vibrant al fresco bar and live music with fully-tented sun coverage. Shade score: 9/10. 665 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, mitotefoodpark.com

Windsor

Grata: Neighborhood Italian dining with a semi-enclosed patio with plenty of shady spots and cool breezes. Metal mesh tables aren’t ideal, but the risotto makes up for it. Shade score: 8/10. 186 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 707-620-0508, gratawindsor.com

Valley Swim Club
Outdoor dining at Valley Swim Club in Sonoma. (Eileen Roche/for Sonoma Magazine)

Sonoma

Valley Swim Club: This seafood-centric restaurant has no indoor seating, so the year-round outdoor space is well-covered with retro-chic furniture and comfy bench seats. Oversized striped umbrellas create a shaded oasis for yard seating. Shade Score: 9/10. 18709 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, valleyswim.club

El Dorado Kitchen: A private courtyard and pool transport you from the busy downtown square to a restful retreat. Excellent Cal-Italian food and craft cocktails compliment the intimate space. Shade Score: 7/10. 405 First St. West, Sonoma, eldoradosonoma.com

The Girl & the Fig: Large umbrellas and sun shades cover the large enclosed patio space that’s a world away from the daily grind. Casual French cuisine with a full cocktail bar and friendly service. Shade Score: 7/10. 110 West Spain St., Sonoma, thegirlandthefig.com

Bloom Carneros: With nearly an acre of enclosed patio and woodchipped ground cover, there’s plenty of room to spread out in shady spots or grab some tanning time in the sun. The menu features a creative, seasonal Cal-Med fare from chef Jennifer McMurry. Bring your kids and pups because it’s a perfect play place with special menus for both. Shade Score: 8/10. 22910 Broadway, Sonoma, bloomcarneros.com

Wild Poppy outdoor dining
If you’re heading out to the coast, Wild Poppy offers a creek-side, dog-friendly patio with music for brunch on the weekends. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Sebastopol

Wild Poppy: The rambling outdoor patio of this offbeat Sebastopol roadhouse has always been a magical place, full of nooks, crannies and hidden spaces to explore. Despite plenty of umbrellas, it can be hard to find complete shade on extra hot days, but a quiet ledge overlooking the creek offers leafy coverage. Don’t miss the Cosmic Queso! Shade score: 7/10. 9890 Bodega Highway, Sebastopol, thewildpoppycafe.com

Petaluma

Brewsters Beer Garden: Dogs, kids and grown-ups all have a place at this indoor-outdoor spot. Excellent barbecue and burgers, mostly California-made beers on tap and cocktails. Live music can get a little loud if you’re trying to converse, but after a few beers, who cares? Shade Score: 7/10. 229 N. Water St., Petaluma, brewstersbeergarden.com

Healdsburg

Molti Amici: Summer sunsets were made for convivial Italian aperitifs, gourmet wood-fired pizza and bocce ball at this neighborhood trattoria, which opened in 2023. The name translates to “many friends,” which you’ll undoubtedly make while lazing away with a cocktail under fringed umbrellas or leaning back into summery lime-striped cushions. Shade score: 8/10. 330 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, moltiamici.com

The Rooftop at Harmon Guest House: Take in views of Fitch Mountain, the Mayacamas range and downtown Healdsburg while you nosh on small bites and casual dishes. Full bar, plus some excellent wines. Shade score: 6/10. 227 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, harmonguesthouse.com

Olive Terrace at Montage Resort: Perched high above the Alexander Valley, it overlooks vineyards and hundreds of acres of open landscape. It also comes with cozy rocking chairs and fire pits. The menus offer both small bites and hearty offerings. Order craft cocktails at the adjacent Scout Field Bar. Shade score: 6/10. 100 Montage Way, Healdsburg, montagehotels.com/healdsburg

Roof 106: Chef Dustin Valette’s ambitious venture is a multistory building with The Matheson restaurant on the ground level, a mezzanine overlooking the restaurant for private events and a rooftop lounge, Roof 106. The rooftop lounge has a more casual indoor-outdoor setting with craft cocktails, small plates and seasonal flatbreads from a custom 3,800-pound wood-fired Mugnaini oven. Shade Score: 8/10. 106 Matheson St., Healdsburg, thematheson.com

Outdoor dining area at Bravas Bar de Tapas
Outdoor dining area at Bravas Bar de Tapas in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Bravas Bar de Tapas: “Jamon In,” reads the neon arrow pointing to the patio that Healdsburgers flock to every summer. Sangria, paella, Spanish tapas and plenty of gossip are what you’ll find at this popular watering hole and restaurant. Shade score: 7/10. 420 Center St., Healdsburg, starkrestaurants.com

Healdsburg Bar & Grill: Known to locals as HBG, this buzzing American eatery is the playground for Michelin-starred chef Douglas Keane to serve up comfort classics like macaroni and cheese, seared tuna burgers and the classic HBG burger. The fenced patio offers space for kids to roam. Shade score: 7/10. 245 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, healdsburgbarandgrill.com

Occidental

Altamont General Store: A new outdoor space is the perfect addition to this eclectic cafe and market. Umbrella-covered tables plus a grassy knoll for cartwheels on cool summer evenings. Shade score: 5/10. 3703 Main St., Occidental, altamontgeneralstore.com

Geyserville

Catelli’s: Lasagna with paper-thin layers of pasta and a tried-and-true meat sauce is a signature dish worth the trip north. Chef Domenica Catelli is one of Sonoma County’s bright lights, committed to using the best local ingredients. The expansive outdoor area with black and white tiles is iconic — and one of the best event spaces in Sonoma County. Shade score: 6/10. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, mycatellis.com

Outdoor dining patio at Catelli's
The outdoor patio at Catelli’s in Geyserville. (Courtesy of Catelli’s)

Diavola: You’ll swear you’re in Italy at this temple of charcuterie, wood-fired pizza and classic Italian entrees, including oxtail ragu with pappardelle, braised beef tripe alla Fiorentina and spaghetti with pork cheek ragu. The cheeky hanging laundry that lines the walkway to the back patio completes the experience. Shade score: 9/10. 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, diavolapizzeria.com

Rustic at Francis Ford Coppola Winery: Rustic takes full advantage of its scenic Sonoma County setting on an outdoor terrace overlooking the picturesque Alexander Valley and Coppola vineyards. The menu embraces family-style cooking with fresh, seasonal ingredients from the property’s organic herb and produce garden. Shade score: 8/10. 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, francisfordcoppolawinery.com

Sonoma Coast

Fisherman’s Cove: This no-nonsense family-owned seafood shack and fishing-marine supply store specializes in fresh local oysters harvested from Tomales Bay. The crab sandwich rivals nearby Spud Point. Shade score: 4/10. 1850 Bay Flat Road, Bodega Bay, fishermanscovebodegabay.com

Rocker Oysterfeller’s: There’s often live music and dancing on the large back patio of this funky eatery and saloon in the historic Valley Ford Hotel. A mix of local oysters and Southern-influenced comfort foods using local ingredients make this a top stop. Shade score: 8/10. 14415 Highway 1, Valley Ford, rockeroysterfellers.com

A Fishing Vessel Ran Aground at the Sonoma Coast. Could It Have Been Saved?

Personnel from a salvage crew wait to offload equipment from the Aleutian Storm, Friday, Feb. 16, 2024. After offloading a pump and fuel hoses, the seas became too rough to continue working on the beached vessel at south Salmon Creek State Beach, north of Bodega Bay. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

It was nearing midnight and too dark for captain Chris Fox to see the land or determine how far offshore he was.

But he knew he was too close. The water was shallow. The Aleutian Storm was on a sandbar.

Fox needed help.

The engine and all other onboard systems were still working, but Fox knew he could hold the 57-ton fishing vessel only so long before the waves drove it ashore.

“I wasn’t, like, in total jeopardy yet,” he recalled two and a half weeks later—after his $1.2 million vessel had been lost to winter storms, wind and waves south of Salmon Creek along Sonoma Coast State Park.

Fox radioed the U.S. Coast Guard for help, which wasn’t immediately forthcoming—not in the way he had hoped, at least.

“I needed a boat, like one of their motorboats, to come get me right then and there,” Fox says. “We weren’t in danger, but we needed some help. We needed to get towed out into slightly deeper water.”

He’ll never know if it might have worked.

Waves crash in to the side of the Aleutian Storm, Friday, Feb. 16, 2024. After crews offloaded a pump and fuel hoses, the seas became to rough to continue working on the beached vessel at south Salmon Creek State Beach, north of Bodega Bay. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat) 2024
Waves crash in to the side of the Aleutian Storm, Friday, Feb. 16, 2024. After crews offloaded a pump and fuel hoses, the seas became too rough to continue working on the beached vessel at south Salmon Creek State Beach, north of Bodega Bay. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

In the weeks and months since, Fox has been enmeshed in a grief-infused swirl of phone calls, insurance claims, and, in those first three days, desperate attempts to try to save the vessel before it became dug in on land.

As each attempt to save the vessel failed, Fox said he watched what might have been a several-hundred-thousand-dollar recovery swell into likely millions of dollars in salvage efforts—costs for which he is liable.

The February loss of the Aleutian Storm is the latest controversy surrounding the Coast Guard’s local response to grounded vessels. While the details of each emergency are unique, they are viewed with similar frustration and pain by some who believe more could—and should— have been done to save them from breaking apart on land.

To some degree, the Aleutian Storm’s fate reflects the perils of the Dungeness crab season and commercial fishing in general. It’s a grueling profession that demands crews leave port for days at a time, sometimes in rough, wintry conditions, to haul in as much as they can harvest within the parameters of fishery regulations and the capacity of their vessels to hold and chill their catch.

Fox would not confirm reports that his boat landed near shore in the first place because he dozed off while en route from northern crabbing grounds to Bodega Harbor to refuel. But he conceded that restrictions limiting commercial crabbing boats to half their permitted crab traps this past season—an effort to reduce the risk of marine animal entanglement—made the hours of work seem longer than usual.

He said he and his crew of three had been out fishing for two and a half days before his vessel ran too close to shore.

“You push yourself and you push yourself,” veteran fisherman Dick Ogg, president of the Bodega Bay Fisherman’s Marketing Association, said after days at sea himself. “You do everything to make ends meet, and s—t happens. We drive ourselves to just the bitter end. That’s the nature of the industry.”

In 2022, a fishing vessel named the Seastar ran aground near Point Reyes National Seashore after its captain apparently fell overboard and drowned. A year earlier, the disabled American Challenger ran aground on the Marin coast. In both cases, some in the close-knit commercial fishing community believe it was the Coast Guard’s inaction during the first minutes and hours of a crisis and beyond that led to the loss.

Coast Guard officials counter that each response is tailored to the circumstances, available assets, and potential risks. Personnel need time to assess the situation before deciding who to send and, once on scene, what to do.

Still, critics like veteran Fort Bragg fisherman Chris Iversen, a friend of Fox’s, sense déjà vu in the pattern of lost vessels—each briefly in a position for a possible save only to later run aground.

Iversen believes resources and equipment dispatched to clean up the aftermath would better serve everyone if they were directed to help boats in jeopardy in the first place.

“The Coast Guard mission statement says that they’re there to ‘mitigate the consequences of marine casualties and disastrous events,’” Iversen said. “They show up, first responders, minimizing the loss of life and property.”

“I think they failed.”

Waves crash on the Aleutian Storm as excavators work to free the fishing vessel on South Salmon Creek Beach north of Bodega Bay, Monday, Feb. 12, 2024. Efforts to refloat the vessel failed after a haul line broke. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Waves crash on the Aleutian Storm as excavators work to free the fishing vessel on South Salmon Creek Beach north of Bodega Bay, Monday, Feb. 12, 2024. Efforts to refloat the vessel failed after a haul line broke. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

A sudden, nighttime crisis

According to the Coast Guard, it was 11:13 p.m. Friday, Feb. 9 when captain Chris Fox made his distress call from the Aleutian Storm over Channel 16, the federally designated radio frequency for maritime emergencies. The fishing vessel was off the coast south of Salmon Creek, about 6 miles by water from the U.S. Coast Guard’s Bodega Bay Station at Doran Beach.

Fox said the Coast Guard watch standers who answered his call went through a long list of questions: What were the names of those on board? What was his cell number? Were the GPS coordinates Fox provided correct? If the Aleutian Storm was where he said it was, it already was on land, they suggested.

He said friends on other crabbing boats heard his appeal for help. Some called the Coast Guard to ask them to repeat coordinates for the troubled vessel, thinking they might be near enough to help, but they got no response, Fox said.

It was part of a period of confusing communication across the radio, during which it was clear multiple agencies at multiple levels were being consulted. Fox said he was pleading for the motor lifeboat, which he believes should have taken only 20 minutes or so to arrive from the station at Doran Beach.

That the Aleutian Storm was in trouble “is my fault,” Fox said, “but you would think they would have a plan to respond.”

Commander Danielle Shupe was the search and rescue coordinator for the agency’s San Francisco Sector that night. “If there was a way that the Coast Guard could have safely assisted the Aleutian Storm at that time, with those conditions, we would have,” Shupe said.

Shupe explained that decisions about how to respond to a distress call are based on deliberate, measured discussions under the Coast Guard’s Operational Risk Management guidelines, balancing potential gains like preserving life and property against risks to agency personnel and assets, the environment, and economic interests.

“Our priority is to save life and protect life, but we also have a priority of protecting property and the environment and the economy,” balanced against “the risk that we’re asking of our boat crews and copter crews,” she said.

The Aleutian Storm was stuck in the dark, in the elements, and in the surf zone, “which is an extremely dangerous position for the vessel and crew to be in,” said Shupe. Each option available that night—delivering a rescue swimmer by air, approaching from land through breaking surf, or having Fox and crew abandon ship—raised tremendous risk, according to Shupe.

There also was the remote location to consider, away from a major port like San Francisco, where a tugboat could have been mobilized more quickly.

The Coast Guard did approve dispatch of the motor lifeboat from Doran Beach, notifying Station Bodega Bay to launch the vessel at 11:34 p.m., 21 minutes after Fox’s distress call came in, according to petty officer Hunter Schnabel, a public affairs specialist. A Eurocopter MH65 Dolphin was sent from San Francisco at the same time.

The Aleutian Storm, Friday, Feb. 16, 2024, lists heavy to starboard as the first in a line of Pacific storms moves in to the region, at south Salmon Creek State Beach, north of Bodega Bay. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat) 2024
The Aleutian Storm, Friday, Feb. 16, 2024, tilts heavy to starboard as the first in a line of Pacific storms moves in to the region, at south Salmon Creek State Beach, north of Bodega Bay. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

Fox said the aircraft arrived well ahead of the lifeboat, and there was talk of an attempted airlift. At the time, that prospect “seemed even more dangerous than what we were in already,” he said.

Besides, he said, “We weren’t in that situation. We weren’t taking on water. Everything was functioning just fine.”

The Coast Guard helicopter crew also raised concerns about rigging on the vessel that could interfere with a rescue attempt, said Schnabel., and the helicopter returned to base.

The motor lifeboat arrived at 12:08 a.m. Feb. 10, 55 minutes after Fox’s call. Officials said it quickly became clear that a close approach was not safe.

Shupe said the depth of the water surrounding Fox’s boat, the vessel’s proximity to shore amid shifting tides, high winds, and breaking waves, potentially unseen rocks or other obstructions, and the fishing vessel’s draft factored in the decision not to approach.

The lifeboat’s crew that night determined they had to stay at least 700 feet away from the Aleutian Storm or risk bottoming out in the shallow water.

“Towing of disabled vessels is something that we do almost daily from the sub-units of sector San Francisco, and so that is not anything unusual,” said Shupe. “But I would say the circumstances of this particular case were unusual due to the environmental conditions, due to the vessel’s location in the surf zone.”

In addition, there was the question of equipment. Petty officer Schnabel noted that the 3-inch towline that is standard gear on the 47-foot lifeboats, while rated for 150 tons of maximum tow capacity, is designed to pull boats afloat in water, not stuck on sand. “They’re not designed to do the things that a tugboat does,” Schnabel said.

In the meantime, Fox repeatedly tried to back off the sandbar and refloat his boat, without success. When he couldn’t hold the boat any longer, the waves took over and pushed it into shore. Finally, at what he estimated to be about 12:30 a.m., Fox and his crew jumped onto the beach. Additional Coast Guard personnel who drove to the scene, arriving well in advance of the motor lifeboat, were present on land to assist the crew, but no help was needed, Fox said.

The Coast Guard said the fishermen were reported safely ashore at 1:20 a.m., ending the agency’s initial response. The window for saving the Aleutian Storm that night had closed.

“We basically just hopped off the boat onto the sand,” leaving the vessel in “perfect condition,” said Fox. “We just walked away. We just left the lights on, and we walked away.”

The Aleutian Storm lies stranded on south Salmon Creek Beach, Saturday, Feb. 10, 2024, just north of Bodega Bay after running aground late Friday night. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
The Aleutian Storm lies stranded on south Salmon Creek Beach, Saturday, Feb. 10, 2024, just north of Bodega Bay after running aground late Friday night. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

By the light of day

Early Saturday morning, after hours of overnight interviews, phone calls and questions from authorities about his plan to get the vessel off the coastline, Fox was back at the beach. He was still trying to save his boat.

Though in the shallow surf, the Aleutian Storm was not yet fully wedged into the sand, and Fox thought there was still a chance a tugboat might be able to tow it back to open water. The engine and machinery still worked. The vessel was intact, and Fox was well insured: He had every chance of rebuilding.

Fox’s confidence that he could refloat the vessel and its good structural condition convinced the Coast Guard to allow him the next day to make the attempt. By then, the Coast Guard was part of a unified command structure that included California State Parks, the Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary, the California Department of Fish and Wildlife’s Office of Spill Prevention and Response, the Sonoma County Department of Emergency Management, and Fox himself.

On Super Bowl Sunday, 50 or more members of the fishing community from ports throughout the northern half of the state converged on the beach to help.

Some of them, Fox said, he’d met only once before.

It’s just what the fishing community does, said Ogg, who had towed another fishing vessel into shore from 9 1/2 miles out just four or five days earlier. “We’re a competitive group, but we’re a family,” he said. “And, you know, regardless of who it is or what the situation, if somebody is in trouble, we come out.”

Fox had called a tugboat that already was in the region, but it had to stay so far offshore—maybe a quarter-mile away, Ogg said—that a tow was only feasible if the tugboat had a very strong, very long towline. What was available on the tugboat did not fit that description.

“I took one look at that line, and so did my friends, and we were like, ‘oh, man,’” Fox said.

“We’re just fishermen. We’re not specialized with this type of stuff. This is a big deal, and we needed more professional help. If it wasn’t for my friends and fishermen, there would have been no help with anything.”

“I guess it’s my fault. I’m supposed to figure it out.”

The owner and crew of the Aleutian Storm, flanked by California State Parks personnel, watch waves crash on the fishing vessel after an attempt to dislodge the boat failed along South Salmon Creek Beach north of Bodega Bay, Monday, Feb. 12, 2024. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
The owner and crew of the Aleutian Storm, flanked by California State Parks personnel, watch waves crash on the fishing vessel after an attempt to dislodge the boat failed along South Salmon Creek Beach north of Bodega Bay, Monday, Feb. 12, 2024. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

And they tried, working under a Coast Guard-approved plan. Taking advantage of high tide Sunday morning, a rescue swimmer and State Parks lifeguards ran the towline out to the tug, while fishermen on shore gripped a separate set of lines and lent their collective strength to straightening the boat so it could more smoothly slide off the sand.

In what one volunteer described as a “really humbling” display of courage, Fox and his crew remained on the 58-foot vessel, trying to wrestle it into submission, as crashing waves battered and tilted the vessel sharply toward the surf.

And for a moment, “we had it,” said Ogg, who was in the scrum. After hours of effort, the boat was moving.

But then the towline snapped. And hours later, it snapped again.

As volunteers worked, the Coast Guard and other agencies monitored the situation for safety and possible fuel spills. Their priority at this point, they said, was to prevent an unknown quantity of diesel still on board from getting into the water. The Coast Guard did not intervene in the rescue attempt, to the chagrin of some involved.

The effort was considered a salvage operation and therefore the purview of the vessel owner, his insurer, and, in this instance, the tugboat involved, Shupe explained. Coast Guard involvement in the work of tugboats would be prohibited as “interference with commerce.”

The agency did not have immediate access to appropriate recovery equipment either, Schnabel said.

But “it’s always our desire to allow the party to try,” as long as it can be done safely, Shupe said, applauding Fox’s efforts.

“It’s personal property,” said Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary superintendent Maria Brown. “And so that also comes into play.”

Fox was given one more day, during high tide Monday, to try to move the Aleutian Storm off the sand, but a third refloating attempt failed, despite the use of a thicker towline. Given high waves predicted in advance of a winter storm later that week, the unified command federalized the incident the next day, taking the operation out of Fox’s hands and making the Coast Guard lead agency.

Close-up of Capt. Chris Fox and his crew battled to rig the Aleutian Storm in one last effort to refloat the fishing vessel despite heavy surf before it was dug into the sand at Salmon Creek Beach. (Courtesy of Gary Saxe)
Close-up of Capt. Chris Fox and his crew battling to rig the Aleutian Storm in one last effort to refloat the fishing vessel despite heavy surf before it was dug into the sand at Salmon Creek Beach. (Courtesy of Gary Saxe)

Fox and his crew left the vessel for the last time Monday afternoon in the bucket of an excavator parked on the beach.

Fox’s two young children, 7 and 2, had spent the previous two and a half days making sandcastles on the beach, oblivious to the struggle underway, as their dad, his crew, and volunteers tried to save the boat. Fox said watching his kids play on the beach and hearing them cry, sad to leave the beach and their sandcastles as the family walked away, was “the hardest thing I’ve ever gone through.”

Over the next couple of days, a few unsuccessful efforts were made to haul the Aleutian Storm higher up on the beach to try to prevent it from breaking apart in the surf. But a shattered cabin window allowed in so much water that the structure soon was destroyed. Within a week, much of the vessel was torn apart, its debris littered across a long stretch of coast.

In the weeks that followed, during low tides, salvage crews used heavy equipment to begin dismantling the remainder of the Aleutian Storm, and collect debris that had been scattered on the beach. Officials said they had made good progress, despite battling active surf and constantly shifting sands.

By mid-March, workers had removed about three-fourths of what was left. But two large pieces of hull were still on the beach, buried in sand, said Max Delaney, emergency response coordinator for the Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary.

Heavy swells moved sand into and around the wreckage as fast as salvage crews could scoop it out, he said.

Finally, five weeks after the Aleutian Storm was grounded, salvage operations were put on hold—an “operational pause” until the return of minus tides in June, said Delaney.

In making that call, sanctuary representatives took into account changing tides and a shift away from the extra-low water levels that allowed for longer periods of work. Another issue was the beginning of the nesting season for a tiny, endangered seabird called the western snowy plover, which counts the beach area near the wrecked vessel among its few remaining nesting spots.

Still unknown is how much of the Aleutian Storm’s diesel fuel was spilled. Of the estimated 1,500 gallons on board initially, Delaney said 197 gallons were recovered during salvage efforts. Some fuel had been expended early on as Fox ran the engines during the rescue attempts, but an unknown quantity leaked over time, Delaney said.

In late March, a hastily organized band of volunteers swooped in to collect as much of the remaining litter from the beach as possible. And officials say they’re committed to salvage the remaining wreckage, some of which peeks out above the sandy beach these days, though the remains of the Aleutian Storm are mostly buried.

Volunteers spread out along south Salmon Creek Beach at Bodega Dunes State Park, Saturday, March 23, 2024, during a cleanup tied to the Aleutian Storm fishing boat. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Volunteers spread out along south Salmon Creek Beach at Bodega Dunes State Park, Saturday, March 23, 2024, during a cleanup tied to the Aleutian Storm fishing boat. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

Delaney said the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, state parks and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service are working with Fox’s salvage contractors to resume work during low tides in mid-summer. But their work is complicated by the presence of active plover nests nearby. Nesting season for the endangered plovers does not close until mid-September.

A series of difficult losses

The destruction of the Aleutian Storm revived criticism of the Coast Guard’s response to grounded vessels—a kind second-guessing that gains strength with each loss.

Tal Roseberry, who sold his boat and retired from commercial fishing last year due to the troubled nature of the industry, said his thoughts could be considered moot, at this point.

But in recent years, after seeing several vessels run aground and break apart while the U.S. Coast Guard stood by, he shares the concerns of others in the local fishing fleet who believe the agency’s reluctance to act jeopardizes vessels that could be saved.

“It’s at the point now where I wouldn’t call the Coast Guard. I’d call my friends,” Roseberry said. “It comes back that we don’t have trust in them.”

It’s an opinion shared by Iversen, now approaching retirement himself, who dates his doubt in the agency to the 2011 loss of the fishing vessel Tasu near Bolinas, a loss he witnessed aboard his own vessel.

Like the Aleutian Storm, the 48-foot Tasu foundered in shallow water off Marin County’s Stinson Beach, where its captain, Greg Ambiel, called for help, hoping for a Coast Guard tow.

But, according to news accounts from the time, small Coast Guard stations like the one near Fort Baker in Horseshoe Bay only respond when human life is at risk, which was not the case. Like the Aleutian Storm, Ambiel’s boat also was in water deemed too shallow for one of the agency’s 47-foot motor lifeboats to navigate. The captain was left to try to free his boat on his own. It eventually overturned and filled with sand.

The remains of the Aleutian Storm are hit by waves along Salmon Creek State Beach near Bodega Bay, Monday, March 18, 2024. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
The remains of the Aleutian Storm are hit by waves along Salmon Creek State Beach near Bodega Bay, Monday, March 18, 2024. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

Coast Guard officials cite challenges specific to each incident, which could not be overcome safely and prevented their intervention. Factors include the safety of personnel, the risk to Coast Guard assets like boats and equipment, and environmental hazards.

Shupe said her agency is “sensitive to the concerns of the fishing community,” as well as to the reality of the North Coast’s rather remote distance from tugboats and other assets more readily available in, say, San Francisco Bay. But in the case of the Aleutian Storm, environmental factors and dangers dashed hopes of saving the vessel, she said.

The Coast Guard has a different calculus when asking crews to risk their own safety to protect property when no one on board is threatened with injury or death, Shupe said. “Obviously there’s a lot of complexity to a response like this.”

Tal Roseberry was especially close to another incident in February 2022, when a young fisherman named Ryan Kozlowski fell overboard and perished while working alone harvesting Dungeness crab off Point Reyes National Seashore.

Commercial and recreational crabbers in the area found Kozlowski’s boat, the Seastar, unmanned and adrift, and called the Coast Guard. They sought help to anchor or tow the boat to preserve it for Koslowski’s family and prevent it from running ashore. But the vessel soon broke apart on Kehoe Beach.

The Seastar incident occurred almost exactly a year after a decommissioned, unoccupied fishing vessel being towed south from Port Angeles, Washington to be scuttled in Mexico, came loose when a steel shackle linking it to its tugboat failed.

The 90-foot American Challenger was adrift for more than 12 hours before ending up on the rocks off the north Marin coast, where it remains today. Both the tugboat and the American Challenger were uninsured.

The tugboat captain, Christian Lint, said at the time that the Coast Guard had several options to prevent the American Challenger from running aground, including getting on board and dropping the anchor or securing a 100-foot-long “insurance line” tied to a buoy and trailing behind the vessel.

Coast Guard officials discuss their options during a salvaging attempt of Aleutian Storm, Friday, Feb. 16, 2024. After a salvage company offloaded a pump and fuel hoses, the seas became to rough to continue working on the beached vessel at south Salmon Creek State Beach, north of Bodega Bay. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Coast Guard officials discuss their options during a salvaging attempt of Aleutian Storm, Friday, Feb. 16, 2024. After a salvage company offloaded a pump and fuel hoses, the seas became to rough to continue working on the beached vessel at south Salmon Creek State Beach, north of Bodega Bay. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

In each case, Coast Guard representatives cited reasons for decisions that are difficult to evaluate in hindsight, from outside the agency, let alone after the passage of years.

But the decisions were robustly challenged at the time.

In the case of the American Challenger, the Coast Guard said the then-commander of the 87-foot Coast Guard cutter Hawksbill had determined it was unsafe to put personnel aboard “due to weather conditions, the proximity to shore, and the unknown structural integrity of the unmanned vessel.”

Lint countered that “calm seas” and “unlimited visibility” prevailed during the extended period the American Challenger remained offshore. He pointed out that Coast Guard personnel would not have had to get on board to secure the trailing insurance line, which might have kept the vessel off the rocks.

A year later, when the Seastar was in trouble, the Coast Guard said the vessel was on rocks by the time its personnel boarded, so towing the vessel would have risked rupture to the hull and the potential release of fuel or other pollutants into waters of the Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary.

They also considered the possibility that Kozlowski, still missing, might have become entangled in gear or rigging underneath the boat and wanted to find him or his remains before moving the vessel.

But fishermen who were present said the Seastar remained in deep water by the time the search for Kozlowski moved elsewhere. The loss of the fishing vessel added to the pain of its captain’s family.

‘This is all we have’

That night in February, the Aleutian Storm was on a sandbar for an hour or more before waves shoved it into the surf at Salmon Creek Beach, where it was later destroyed.

“When I say it traumatized the whole industry,” said Iversen, “I mean it traumatized the whole industry.” He believes that there’s an opportunity to reconsider the response to vessels in distress along the North Coast—perhaps by staging a suitable tow line near the harbor, for example. “There is a fix out there,” said Iversen. “This is fixable.”

“It’s frustrating because we do have the infrastructure within our area to respond to these kinds of incidents,” said west Sonoma County supervisor Lynda Hopkins. “It just felt like all the ingredients weren’t there.”

Hopkins and Sonoma County emergency management director Jeff DuVall also believe a fix is possible. They are now working with Ogg to develop a playbook for vessel groundings that identifies best practices and available resources like tugboats and other equipment, plus phone numbers and government agency roles—“kind of like a wildfire plan,” explained Ogg.

Salvage operation, California State Parks, and U.S. Coast Guard personnel meet after an effort to refloat the fishing vessel Aleutian Storm failed following the breaking of a haul line, along South Salmon Creek Beach, north of Bodega Bay, Monday, Feb. 12, 2024. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Salvage operation, California State Parks, and U.S. Coast Guard personnel meet after an effort to refloat the fishing vessel Aleutian Storm failed following the breaking of a haul line, along South Salmon Creek Beach, north of Bodega Bay, Monday, Feb. 12, 2024. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

They hope to improve coordination between the Coast Guard, the Office of Spill Prevention and Response, the county and the fishing community for faster, more successful responses.

“Up until the Coast Guard federalizes a case,” said DuVall, “it is 100% on the owner to try to mitigate and get the vessel off the beach, and that’s when we saw the community coming together and trying to help. We’re trying to learn from past lessons.”

Fox is hopeful his insurance will cover the costs for which he’s responsible, but he’s exasperated by the need to make a claim of complete loss. Though final figures aren’t available and the status of his insurance claim is unknown, costs are likely several million dollars. Fox recently declined to say anything further about the claim.

“I spent a lot of time on that boat thinking it would be saved, while my kids built sandcastles right next to it,” Fox said.

“This is my boat,” he said, though it had by then been smashed to pieces. “This is my livelihood, my wife’s boat, my kids’ boat, my family’s boat. This is all we have.”

Sonoma Cellist Provides Elevated Music Program To Local Students

Cellist and music teacher Michael Fecskes, who is the artistic director of ViVO Youth Orchestras, a program that does music in schools for underserved youth in Sonoma Valley, photographed at Sonoma’s Bartholomew Park June 3, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

Four afternoons a week, cellist Michael Fecskes leads a room of young musicians through the fundamentals of classical music as the artistic director of Sonoma’s ViVO Youth Orchestras.

Modeled after El Sistema, the renowned Venezuelan training program that produced conducting phenom Gustavo Dudamel, the nonprofit based at El Verano Elementary brings music education and leadership training to K-12 students across Sonoma Valley.

Teaching is a calling for Fecskes, who moved to Sonoma as a high schooler, studied music at Sonoma State, and lived and performed in New York and Europe for over a decade before settling back in Wine Country eight years ago.

Fecskes performs locally as well, and will be playing with a chamber ensemble July 23 at Buena Vista Winery as part of the 10th anniversary Valley of the Moon Music Festival. valleyofthemoonmusicfestival.orgvivosonoma.org

Read below for Fecskes’s views on his music program and teaching process.

Cellist and music teacher Michael Fecskes, who is the artistic director of ViVO Youth Orchestras, a program that does music in schools for underserved youth in Sonoma Valley, photographed at Sonoma’s Bartholomew Park June 3, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Cellist and music teacher Michael Fecskes, who is the artistic director of ViVO Youth Orchestras, a program that does music in schools for underserved youth in Sonoma Valley, photographed at Sonoma’s Bartholomew Park June 3, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

“I really wanted to design a program where the student could theoretically stay with us from kindergarten until they graduate from high school, always with something to do, always with an elevated purpose, with a new set of musical skills they can apply. And that’s working. It’s really beautiful to see.”

“I love to ask my intermediate classes, ‘When did you join?’ And they’ll tell me kindergarten or first grade, and I remember them when they were so little. Offering the program four days a week for years, you really know these children. You know about their days, their successes, which they always report back to us. You know their families, too. To be that kind of figure in their lives for multiple years, multiple seasons, multiple stages — I mean, there’s nothing better.”

“I’ve realized this type of work is not at all like a transaction. I don’t just come with a body of knowledge to instill and then just walk away. It feels very cyclical, very circular in the relationship with the children. Like, I give them everything I’ve gained in my life, and they give me back these amazing reminders of the human process.”

“The teaching helps me to recognize we all go through the same kinds of little struggles throughout our life, but with maybe a little less love and care as we get older. I run into my students all the time around town. I’ll hear my name from any direction from a child, and I’m just like, ‘Yes, what is it? What can I do?’ And I pull a Band-Aid out of my pocket.”

Liven up Summer Lemonade With Sonoma’s Golden Raspberries

Golden raspberries
Golden raspberries (Shutterstock)

It’s the summer of berries: Black raspberries, purple raspberries and the dearest ones of all, golden raspberries, sunshine yellow with a just hint of blush.

Golden raspberries are delicate with a bit more sweetness than their more familiar red cousins. They have the shortest season, too; when late summer and early fall temperatures soar, golden raspberries quickly fade away.

Find them at farmers markets and produce stands, including Petaluma’s Stony Point Strawberry Farm. You’ll want to either buy way more than you think you’ll need, or hide them in the trunk so they don’t get devoured on the drive home — they’re that irresistible.

A simple pureed raspberry sauce is perfect when drizzled over ice cream, and the whole berries are delicious in tarts and salads. Golden raspberries are wonderful in summer drinks, too, from classic lemonade and iced tea to mocktails and cocktails.

Get up close and personal with Sonoma County’s bounty at seasonal and year-round markets from Healdsburg to Occidental. Santa Rosa has two year-round markets with everything from artisan cheese and locally-caught seafood to sushi burritos and bone broth. (Raspberries from the Sebastopol Berry Farm, BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat)
Get up close and personal with Sonoma County’s bounty at seasonal and year-round markets from Healdsburg to Occidental. Shown here are an assortment of raspberries, including sweet golden ones, from the Sebastopol Berry Farm. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat)

Sparkling Raspberry Lemonade

Makes 6 to 8 servings

2 cups fresh golden raspberries, pressed through a strainer or sieve

2 cups freshly squeezed lemon juice

3 sprigs of basil

¼ cup simple syrup, plus more to taste, see note

4 cups sparkling water, chilled

Ice cubes

Whole golden raspberries, for garnish

Press the raspberries through a strainer or sieve set over a glass bowl. Discard any remaining seeds or solids. To the processed berries, add fresh lemon juice and basil and refrigerate for at least 3 hours and as long as overnight.

Discard the basil sprigs. Add the simple syrup to the berry-lemon mixture. Stir well, taste, and add more to taste. Stir in the sparkling water.

Fill glasses with ice cubes, pour in the lemonade, top with 3-4 whole raspberries, and enjoy right away.

Note: To make simple syrup, put 4 cups of granulated sugar into a heavy saucepan, add 2 cups of water, and set over high heat. Do not stir. When the mixture just starts to boil, reduce heat and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, until the syrup is transparent. Remove from heat, cover, and allow to cool. Pour cooled syrup into a clean glass jar, and keep in the refrigerator up to 3 months.