Tiny town of Calistoga, we’re so proud to call you our Wine Country own. You’ve always been a charming burg, and now, you’re blossoming into an increasingly fashionable destination we adore. With new restaurants, resorts, wine tasting rooms and shops amid the historic landmarks, there’s so much to explore within your span of 2.6 square miles.
The history here is rich. Originally populated by the Wappo Indigenous people, the land came under the control of Mexico’s Mission San Francisco de Solano during the 1700s and early 1800s. Later, Anglo settlers began, well, settling in.
In 1859, American entrepreneur/gold mogul Sam Brannan began snatching up sprawling parcels. He was fascinated by the natural hot springs that abounded in the town. Brannan envisioned building a spa retreat reminiscent of his dream spot, Saratoga Springs resort in New York.
By 1862, he had built Calistoga Hot Springs resort. After the Napa Valley Railroad Company’s track was completed to Calistoga in 1868, the area became a particularly popular retreat for ferry passengers traveling from San Francisco, plus visitors from nearby Lake and Sonoma counties.
Salutes to Brannan remain to this day in several other lodging properties, restaurants and the location of the original Calistoga Hot Springs, where the posh Indian Springs Calistoga resort is today.
Fun fact: The Wappo name for the area was Nilektsonoma, meaning “Chicken Hawk Place.” Early Anglo settlers called it “Indian Hot Springs.” Brannan renamed it Calistoga, in what he later admitted was a slip of his tongue that transformed “Saratoga of California” into “Calistoga of Sarifornia.”
Here’s a favorite way to spend a few days’ getaway in Calistoga.
Day 1
Get an early start to your full day with brunch at Fleetwood (Friday-Sunday), in Calistoga Motor Lodge. Cal-cuisine dishes are soul-satisfying, like steel cut oatmeal that’s crispy-capped in sweet banana brûlée, or smoked salmon eggs Benedict layered with spinach. The crunchy chilaquiles are exceptional. Corn tortillas are smothered in chicken, pepper jack cheese, yolky poached eggs, red chile salsa, queso fresco and velvety avocado.
Take a spin on the brand new, scenic Napa Valley Vine Trail (opening to the public Aug. 17), accessed just a few blocks from Fleetwood/the Lodge. Rent an e-bike from Calistoga Bikeshop and be one of the first to traverse the 8.2-mile section connecting Calistoga to St. Helena.
Indulge in a wine tasting at the lavish Elusa Winery, on the grounds of the Four Seasons Resort Napa Valley. Tour the winemaking facilities and estate vineyards with a glass of wine in hand. Then relax in the contemporary, art-flocked lounge for tastes of high-end bottlings like Calistoga-grown Cabernet Sauvignon, paired with cheese and charcuterie.
Break for lunch at House of Better, at the Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs. The specialty here is New Mexico fare. Lots of Hatch chiles make for sumptuous dishes like red chile chicken posole and carne adovada-chile-cheese flat enchiladas. Don’t forget the must-have apple pie, laced with roasted green chiles tucked in a butter-based cheddar crust then topped with walnut streusel and clouds of crème fraîche.
Check into Calistoga Motor Lodge, originally built in the 1940s and dramatically renovated and expanded a few years ago into an Airstream-chic collection of “camper” rooms reminiscent of elegant camper van interiors (pet friendly!). The larger deluxe rooms are new, nestled on the second floor with private balconies (ask for a Palisades mountain view). Complimentary goodies include freshly ground organic pour-over coffee, fun snacks like Cracker Jack and toiletries from the onsite MoonAcre Spa.
(Tip: Priority Cruiser Bicycles are complimentary for up to two hours for Lodge guests, perfect for navigating Calistoga’s 1-mile-long main drag of Lincoln Avenue).
Kick back over dinner at Bricco Osteria, a new Italian joint that welcomes with elevated comfort food. Try the lasagna draped in rich béchamel, organic chicken parmigiano, and local eggplant stuffed with ricotta and parmigiano then baked in silky tomato sauce. Be sure to get a reservation; this bustling spot is hot.
Day 2
Enjoy a leisurely brunch at Lovina. Owner Jennifer Bennett wows with Cal-Med cuisine in a chic cottage setting (the garden patio is particularly lovely). The housemade cinnamon roll is a must — baked golden in a cast iron skillet then slathered in cream cheese icing topped with pecans. An Omeletti du Jour is done in the delicate, soft-folded French style. Or go big and dig into spicy heritage pork and beef Bolognese with parmesan, Calabrian chile and breadcrumbs over fresh fettuccine (make it “dirty” by adding melted cheese and truffle butter).
Take a quick drive to Bale Grist Mill, a gorgeous California state park located between Calistoga and St. Helena. The remarkable structure was built in 1846, as settlers came to have their grain ground into meal or flour via a water wheel, which still drives the milling stones today. It’s a good idea to make an appointment at stateparks@ncrposd.org. Regular hours are 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays, but the volunteer-led tour availability can vary.
Scoot over to nearby Sterling Vineyards for a scenic gondola ride up to the estate’s several mountaintop tasting rooms. The Hilltop Tasting Room is a favorite choice, overlooking the Napa Valley and showcasing five exclusive estate wines paired with local cheese and charcuterie.
Grab lunch at the family-owned Sushi Mambo for a Japanese feast of okonomiyaki pancake studded with squid and seafood yosenabe simmered in rich dashi broth in an earthenware pot over flames. Dozens upon dozens of sushi and sashimi choices beckon, too. The decadent “Main Lovester” is made with lobster, crab and shrimp topped in tuna, hamachi, avocado, tobiko and miso.
Hop-skip a few blocks over to Maria Concetto Winery, a new tasting room featuring the delightful RobinoVino, a robot sommelier. Dressed in a dapper bow tie, the $50,000 machine picks up your wine bottle, pours a generous splash in your glass, then tips any leftover drops into a dump bucket before selecting your next wine to go in a fresh glass. While you sip, he dances to an upbeat music track under beams of colorful lights.
Shop and sip at the creative combo that is Picayune Cellars & Mercantile, a boutique tasting room with covetable clothes and home accessories, plus attractions like a build-your-own hat bar. The classic tasting is a great introduction, offering five wines to enjoy at a patio table or while wandering the store, glass in hand. Fun finds at the mercantile include Indigenous-made jewelry, stylish water bottles inserted with sealed gempods (filled with precious “wellness” gems), and intriguing books like “The Modern Witch’s Guide to Magickal Self Care” (yes, it’s spelled Magickal).
Treat yourself to dinner at the elegant but relaxed Truss at the Four Seasons. Vineyard and sunset views are postcard worthy, and the Cal-Italian menu appeals with comfort choices such as a knife-and-fork Stemple Creek Ranch cheeseburger, but also luxuries like a 32-ounce rib-eye for two dressed in sea salt, bone marrow jus and chimichurri (it’s a cool $225).
Recommendations
Indian Springs Calistoga, 1712 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-709-8139, indianspringscalistoga.com
Fleetwood, 1880 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-709-4410, fleetwoodcalistoga.com
Calistoga Motor Lodge, 1880 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-737-0000, calistogamotorlodgeandspa.com
Napa Valley Vine Trail, vinetrail.org
Calistoga Bikeshop, 1318 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-942-9687, calistogabikeshop.com
Elusa Winery, 400 Silverado Trail N., Calistoga, 707-403-6644, elusawinery.com
House of Better, 1507 Lincoln Ave. (in Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs), Calistoga, 707-942-6257, houseofbetter.com
Bricco Osteria, 1350 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-341-3442, briccoosteria.com
Lovina, 1107 Cedar St., Calistoga, 707-942-6500, lovinacalistoga.com
Bale Grist Mill, 3369 Saint Helena Hwy N., Calistoga/Saint Helena, 707-942-4575, napaoutdoors.org
Sterling Vineyards, 1111 Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga, 800-726-6136, sterlingvineyards.com
Sushi Mambo, 1631 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-942-4699, sushimambo.com
Maria Concetto Winery, 1367 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-860-5774, mariaconcettowinery.com
Picayune Cellars & Mercantile, 1440 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-341-3410, picayunecellars.com
Truss, 400 Silverado Trail N., Calistoga, 707-709-2100, trussrestaurantandbar.com