Wine Country Hotels, Restaurants Win 2025 Forbes Travel Guide Star Awards

The lobby at Montage Healdsburg. (Montage Healdsburg)

Sonoma County continues to stand at the forefront of luxury hospitality, with two of its Healdsburg-based properties, Montage Healdsburg and SingleThread Farms & Restaurant, earning top honors in the 2025 Forbes Travel Guide Star Awards. These two remarkable establishments have earned Forbes’ prestigious five-star luxury rating for the fourth consecutive year.

Forbes describes these annual awards as an “independent, global rating system for luxury hotels, restaurants, spas and ocean cruise ships.” The magazine’s Star Rating system puts an emphasis on reviewing service quality.

“Ensconced among the vineyards in Sonoma, Montage Healdsburg immerses you in Wine Country,” wrote Forbes. “The hotel, which debuted in January 2021, seamlessly blends into the landscape, with its 130 rooms tucked into bungalows that bear the same shade of brown as the heritage oaks that cloak them.”

Wine Country Forbes Travel
The lobby at Montage Healdsburg. (Montage Healdsburg)

The Montage Resort has a reputation for attracting the rich and famous to its 250-acre estate nestled in the hills above Healdsburg. According to The Hollywood Reporter in 2022, pop star Justin Bieber and his wife, Hailey Bieber, are among the high-profile guests who have stayed at the property.

Among its sumptuous offerings, the resort boasts a 4,635-square-foot accommodation called the Guest House, starting from around $5,000 per night. Catering to well-heeled travelers, the hotel unveiled in 2021 its “The Sky’s the Limit” package, which runs up to $95,000. The package includes private jet flights from anywhere in the United States.

The Guest House, Montage Healdsburg's presidential suite. (Courtesy of Montage Healdsburg)
The Guest House, Montage Healdsburg’s presidential suite. (Montage Healdsburg)
Wine Country Forbes Travel
The pool at Montage Healdsburg. (Montage Healdsburg)

In addition to its five-star rating of the Montage Resort, Forbes also highlighted the Montage Spa and the resort’s restaurant, Hazel Hill, with their own four-star ratings.

The 11,500-square-foot Montage Spa includes 11 treatment rooms, a fitness center and a zero-edge pool.

But the resort’s commitment to tranquility extends beyond the spa.

“The terrace at Hazel Hill places you above Montage Healdsburg‘s vineyards, with the Mayacamas Mountains’ rolling hills unfolding beyond them and Mount St. Helena looming in the distance,” wrote Forbes. “It’s a stunning Sonoma scene. A fresh, seasonal meal will give you even more of a reason to linger and savor the scenery.”

English Pea Soup poured at the table over lavender, coconut yogurt and vintner's coppa from Hazel Hill at Montage Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
English Pea Soup poured at the table over lavender, coconut yogurt and vintner’s coppa from Hazel Hill at Montage Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

A short drive south of Montage, located in downtown Healdsburg, SingleThread is the only three-star Michelin restaurant in Sonoma County. Run by husband-and-wife team chef Kyle Connaughton and farmer Katina Connaughton, the restaurant also has a five-room inn where guests can stay the night. (Forbes separately included the inn in its “recommended” list of places to stay.)

“To call SingleThread Farms a restaurant is akin to calling Buckingham Palace simply a house. This temple of haute cuisine in Sonoma County’s quaint town of Healdsburg delivers on the oft over-used promise of ‘farm to table,’” wrote Forbes.

Sourcing ingredients from its 24-acre biodiverse farm in the Dry Creek Valley, SingleThread serves a kaiseki-style 11-course menu.

“To source purveyors for SingleThread’s incredible array of seafood items, executive chef Kyle treks six times annually to Japan, the country that serves as inspiration not only for his lauded donabe clay pot cooking techniques, but also for SingleThread’s elegant and serene dining room interior,” wrote Forbes.

At Single Thread restaurant in Healdsburg. (Garrett Rowland/Sonoma County Tourism)
At SingleThread restaurant in Healdsburg. (Garrett Rowland/Sonoma County Tourism)
SingleThread Healdsburg
An elegantly presented dish at the three-Michelin star SingleThread in Healdsburg. (John Troxell/Sonoma County Tourism)

Sonoma County’s list of award-winning properties doesn’t stop there. MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa in Sonoma received two separate four-star ratings from Forbes: one for the entire property and another for the recently refurbished Spa at MacArthur. Forbes also recommended the property’s restaurant, Layla.

Additional Sonoma County luxury establishments that were recommended by Forbes include Farmhouse Inn and Farmhouse Inn Restaurant in Forestville and Hotel Les Mars in Healdsburg.

The Forbes Travel Guide also handed out a plethora of awards to luxury hotels and restaurants in Napa this year. Auberge du Soleil, Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley and The French Laundry continue to garner five-star honors. Other Napa properties, such as Carneros Resort and Spa and its restaurant FARM and Solage, Auberge Resorts Collection, earned four stars, while Stanly Ranch, Auberge Resorts Collection and Archer Hotel Napa earned “recommended” distinctions.

Forbes Travel Guide Star Award inspectors rate properties based on up to 900 objective criteria, according to Forbes. The inspectors are always anonymous and spend at least two days staying at the hotels they review. See the complete list of 2025 awardees here.

A Garden Party Wedding Showcases the Bounty of Wine Country’s Harvest Season

Jason Teplitz and Dylan Hunn at their wedding ceremony in Kenwood. (Kathryn White)

Dylan Hunn and Jason Teplitz met in college at Stanford, when they were assigned to be teaching assistants for the same introductory computer science class. Now living in San Francisco and working in the field of artificial intelligence, the couple hosted their September wedding at Kenwood’s Chateau St. Jean Winery. With family spread across the country (Dylan grew up in Texas, and Jason’s parents are in Connecticut), they loved the idea of introducing their loved ones to Wine Country during the bounty of harvest season.

“There’s just something specific about Sonoma. The wines are amazing, but it’s also a little bit low-key,” says Dylan. “You’re showing everyone one of the hidden gems of California.”

The couple envisioned a relaxed afternoon garden party, “idyllic and pastoral,” as Dylan describes it, with a Jewish ceremony in the shade of a pergola and a reception in the gazebo.

“We wanted the whole thing to feel like a cocktail hour where you really have time to talk to everybody and hang out together,” says Dylan.

Wine Country harvest garden party wedding
Dylan Hunn and Jason Teplitz at their wedding ceremony in Kenwood. (Kathryn White)
Wine Country harvest wedding garden party
Dylan Hunn and Jason Teplitz’s wedding ceremony and reception included a harvest luncheon and relaxed afternoon garden party. (Kathryn White)

A harvest luncheon — three types of pizza, salmon and chicken, and Mediterranean sides and spreads — was followed by wedding cake and fig-and-port gelato scooped from a cute gelato cart. Their 60 guests embraced the garden party vision, playing chess and bocce and dancing a traditional hora on the grand lawn next to a grove of redwood trees.

After many years together, the couple agree they didn’t expect being married to feel all that different — and yet, so much has changed.

“I thought the wedding was just going to solidify something that was already basically true, but that ended up not being how I felt at all,” says Jason. “Immediately after, it just felt like such a change of mindset, such a change in how we think about things.”

Dylan and Jason say they now look forward to the warm nostalgia they feel each time they return to Sonoma Valley, where their new life together had its launch.

Wine Country harvest wedding
A multi-tiered wedding cake topped with fresh berries and figs by Flour and Bloom Cakes. (Kathryn White)
Zinnias and fall grasses decorated the tables. (Kathryn White)
Zinnias and fall grasses decorated the tables. (Kathryn White)

Resources

Venue: Chateau St. Jean, Kenwood

Planner and Design: Seven Oh Seven Events

Photography: Kathryn White Photography

Catering: the girl & the fig caters

Florals: Mariana’s Floral Design

Cake: Flour and Bloom Cakes

DJ: Nor Cal Pro Sound

Musician: Mario To

Rentals: Encore Events Rentals

Officiant: Rabbi Steve Finley

Where to Get the Best Margaritas in Sonoma County

Best of Margarita: Best Of La Rosa Tequileria & Grille Monday, July 8, 2024. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

You don’t have to wait until Cinco de Mayo to enjoy the sweet, sour, salty, boozy taste of a well-made margarita.

Often hailed as the quintessential Mexican cocktail, the origins of the margarita remain debated — some claim it was invented in Tijuana in the 1930s while others say the first margarita was concocted by a Dallas socialite at her Acapulco vacation home in 1948.

No matter where it came from or how you like yours — frozen or on the rocks, with or without salt, flavor-infused or classic — Sonoma County serves up some marvelous margaritas. Here are our top picks.

La Rosa Tequileria & Grille, Santa Rosa: La Rosa’s La Diabla is a favorite margarita made with lime, strawberry (or other fruits, your choice) and muddled serrano chiles, served on the rocks. A little spicy, a little naughty. If heat isn’t your thing, try one of their 12 other margaritas, or keep it simple with a sip of tequila from the expansive bar, which features over 180 artisan tequilas and mezcals. 500 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-523-3663, larosasantarosa.com

A Prickly Pear Margarita with chicken fajitas at La Rosa Tequileria & Grille in Santa Rosa, on Tuesday, August 11, 2015. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat)
A Prickly Pear Margarita with chicken fajitas at La Rosa Tequileria & Grille in Santa Rosa. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Paradise Sushi, Santa Rosa: Ignore the fact that they’re not made with real tequila, because this sweet little flight of margs is every bit as tasty. Pair with a couple of California rolls, and you’re in for a brilliant evening. 119 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, paradisesushi.net

Lazeaway Club at the Flamingo Resort, Santa Rosa: Grab a poolside table and a fresh margarita and enjoy the “ode to idleness” vibe at the renovated resort. 2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-510-4533, lazeawayclub.com

Sweet T’s, Santa Rosa: The secret to the Texas Margarita? Pineapple and a kick of cayenne pepper. But oh, how sweet it is. 9098 Brooks Road South, Windsor, 707-687-5185, sweettssouthern.com

Ricardo’s Bar & Grill, Santa Rosa: A popular hangout for Bennett Valley residents, Ricardo’s serves up tasty martinis and a delicious house margarita that uses Sauza Blue tequila and is served on the rocks in a tall, skinny glass. Or go big with their top shelf — it’s worth the upgrade. Pair it with shrimp tacos from the secret menu and you’ll be more than satisfied. 2700 Yulupa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-545-7696, ricardosbarandgrillca.com

Cascabel, Santa Rosa: Originally a tequila lounge based out of San Rafael, Cascabel opened a second location in Montgomery Village. They offer up plenty of delicious tequila-focused cocktails, with the Margarita de la Casa as number one on the list. 909 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 707-521-9444, cascabelbayarea.com

Tamarind margarita from El Gallo Negro in Windsor. (El Gallo Negro)
Tamarind margarita from El Gallo Negro in Windsor. (El Gallo Negro)

El Gallo Negro, Windsor: This Windsor restaurant and mezcaleria serves up Oaxacan-influenced dishes and a margarita for everyone with 11 festive options, including their house margarita, La Margarita, a Mezcal margarita, skinny margarita and the Mucho Caliente. 8465 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor, 707-838-9511, elgallonegro.net

Agave, Healdsburg: Agave offers one of the largest tequila selections in the county and hosts regular tastings. Order a house margarita or go big with La Reyna del Sur, which is made with Herradura silver tequila, fresh squeezed lime and Grand Marnier. Enjoy your margarita al fresco with chef Octavio Diaz’s mother’s speciality, traditional molé from Oaxaca. 1063 Vine St., Healdsburg, 707-433-2411, agavehealdsburg.com

Roof 106, Healdsburg: The Modern Margarita is a wonder of modern alchemy. This classic cocktail is crystal-clear, making for a sneaky drink that’s every bit as good as the original. Maybe better. 106 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-723-1106, thematheson.com

The Modern Margarita from Roof 106 in Healdsburg is a wonder of modern alchemy. This classic cocktail is crystal-clear, making for a sneaky drink that's every bit as good as the original. Maybe better. (Courtesy of The Matheson)
The Modern Margarita from Roof 106 in Healdsburg is a wonder of modern alchemy. This classic cocktail is crystal-clear, making for a sneaky drink that’s every bit as good as the original. Maybe better. (Courtesy of The Matheson)

Maya Restaurant, Sonoma: Maya serves up contemporary Yucatan cuisine and the largest tequila selection in town. All of their margaritas use 100% Blue Weber Agave tequila and their house margarita is no joke — it packs a punch with silver tequila, orange liqueur, and fresh lemon and lime juice. For something a bit more fruity, try their pomegranate margarita. 101 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-935-3500, mayarestaurant.com

La Casa Restaurant, Sonoma: One of the oldest restaurants in Sonoma knows how to throw down the margaritas — they offer six types — many use recipes that date back to the restaurant’s 1967 opening. Try the Coat Rack, which uses Cazadores Reposado tequila, Cointreau and fresh squeezed lime, or order a house margarita during happy hour. 121 E. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-996-3406, lacasarestaurants.com

Taqueria La Hacienda, Sonoma: Sonoma locals flock to La Hacienda, not just for their hearty portions of Mexican food, which includes the best homemade molé in town, but also for their gigantic margaritas. Skip the house margarita and go top shelf with a blend of their famous margarita mix and El Jimador Tequila Blanco Triple Sec, topped with floats of Grand Marnier and Cointreau. They also serve a margarita using organic tequila. 17960 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-939-8226, lahaciendasonomabarandgrill.com

Oso Sonoma, Sonoma: Oso’s food is great and so are their cocktails. Pair Oso’s shrimp tacos with a blood orange margarita, which uses Sabé Teq, blood orange puree, lime, agave and salt. 9 E. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-931-6926, ososonoma.com

Mi Pueblo, Petaluma: Mi Pueblo, located in the heart Petaluma’s historic downtown, hosts a popular happy hour, with speciality margaritas, such as their jalapeño margarita. Local fans describe Mi Pueblo’s margaritas as being “the size of a mixing bowl” and therefore shareable for two — but would you really want to share your margarita? 108 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-769-9066, eatmipueblopetaluma.com

Plaza Tequila, Petaluma: Popular with happy hour enthusiasts, Plaza Tequila offers margarita lovers plenty of options to pair with their expansive menu. Treat yourself to a top shelf margarita, which is topped off with a float of Cointreau, and sit back and relax on their shaded patio. 600 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 707-776-4949, plazatequila.com

Mi Ranchito, Cotati: Mi Ranchito loves tequila so much they have their own tequila club. Their specialty margaritas run the gamut of colors, tastes and sizes. Try La Borracha, which is topped off with a mini-Corona beer or a refreshing cucumber margarita that uses Milagro silver tequila. 7600 Commerce Blvd., Cotati, 707-795-7600, miranchitocotati.com

Margarita at El Barrio in Guerneville, California
Margarita from El Barrio in Guerneville (Kelly Pulieo)

El Barrio, Guerneville: One of the hottest spots in Guerneville, El Barrio pairs tequila and mezcal craft cocktails with small Mexican plates. USA Today calls their La Adelita margarita — made with Cebeza tequila, Cointreau, hibiscus, and lime — “sultry.” They also offer mezcal margaritas, like the El Barrio, which uses just a few simple ingredients: Fidencio mezcal, agave and lime juice. Order some Mexican deviled eggs and chill on the patio. 16230 Main St., Guerneville, 707-604-7601, elbarriobar.com

Underwood Bar and Grill, Graton: A popular hangout for locals, including winemakers and artists, Underwood offers a top notch craft cocktail program, which of course includes a margarita. Their Mercury Margarita uses Herradura Blanco tequila, Grand Marnier, Cointreau, house-made sweet & sour, and fresh orange juice. It’s a perfect match with their signature grilled hamburger. 9113 Graton Road, Graton, 707-823-7023, underwoodgraton.com

El Coronel Mexican Restaurant, Sebastopol: This family-friendly establishment, with an outdoor patio, makes for a great spot to enjoy one of nine speciality margaritas — especially if you love a more fruity twist. Their Pink Cadillac margarita stars Chambord, giving it a distinct raspberry flavor, and the Georgia Peach features peach Schnapps. 1015 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-829-7010, elcoronelrestaurant.com

Rocker Oysterfeller’s, Valley Ford: This Valley Ford saloon offers contemporary twists on classics, including the margarita, which comprises fresh lime, Arette tequila, Patron Citronage and agave. Enjoy it with their beer-battered fish tacos, served with apple-fennel slaw and a spicy remoulade sauce. Too many margaritas? Sleep it off at their onsite hotel. 14415 Highway 1, Valley Ford, 707-876-1983, rockeroysterfellers.com

Heather Irwin and Sarah Stierch contributed to this article.

Where To Take Wine Tasting Classes in Wine Country

Idlewild Wines in Healdsburg focuses on a lengthy selection of Piedmontese-northern Italian grapes, grown in the Russian River Valley and Mendocino County. (Courtesy of Idlewild Wines)

You don’t have to study wine to enjoy drinking it. But learning more about its origins and nuances can certainly enhance the experience.

Julie Rothberg, the founder of Odyssey Wine Academy in Healdsburg, points out that wine classes such as those offered through the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) can help people discover regions and wines they otherwise wouldn’t encounter.

“It’s really just giving people a global perspective on wines,” said Rothberg, who is also the president of Medlock Ames winery in Healdsburg. “Especially here in Northern California, we very much have a ‘house palate’ because we’re drinking what’s close. But there’s this whole world of wine that’s just so amazing and fantastic.”

Wine tasting classes at Odyssey Wine Academy
Julie Rothberg, president of Medlock Ames winery, during a wine education class at the Odyssey Wine Academy. Rothberg is also the founder of Odyssey Wine Academy, which provides WSET courses. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

Rothberg and other expert instructors teach WSET courses at Odyssey’s original spot in Bacchus Landing, as well as at a new location at Avinage wine shop in downtown Petaluma.

She said she likes the WSET program because it teaches a systematic approach to tasting.

“It’s a way to break down wine into its structure and components and aromas and flavors, which allows you to really understand what it is you’re drinking,” she said. “It tells you something about where it came from and it helps you enjoy and evaluate a wine so that instead of just saying, ‘I like a big bold red,’ or, ‘I like fruity wines,’ you’re able to really articulate that you like high-acid wines or softer tannins or something with a really rich mouthfeel.”

Although some of Rothberg’s students are wine professionals, she said many are people who are just passionate about wine. “About half the students don’t work in wine,” she explained. “They just love it and want to learn more.”

Here’s where to find wine tasting classes — from half-day workshops to multilevel courses — in Sonoma County and Napa Valley.

Sonoma County wine classes
At Idlewild Wines in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Idlewild Wines)
Wine tasting at Idlewild Wines in Healdsburg. Every Sunday, the tasting room hosts a deep dive into the world of Italian wines. (Courtesy of Idlewild Wines)

Idlewild Wines Sunday School

Every Sunday, the tasting room in downtown Healdsburg hosts a deep dive into the world of Italian wines — including those made in Italy and wines made from Italian grape varieties grown in California. Idlewild founder and winemaker Sam Bilbro leads the Sunday afternoon events ($50), with each focusing on a different region or producer. This spring, look for a comparative tasting of wines from Friuli and the Südtirol with selections from Comunitá, Idlewild’s sister winery.

132 Plaza St., Healdsburg. idlewildwines.com

Wine tasting classes at Odyssey Wine Academy
Julie Rothberg during a wine education class focusing on French and Spanish varietals at Odyssey Wine Academy at Bacchus Landing. Rothberg said she likes the WSET program because it teaches a systematic approach to tasting. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Damien Carney spent years as a sales director and portfolio manager for wine importers in New York and California before opening Avinage in Petaluma. (Tina Caputo)
Damien Carney at his Avinage wine shop in Petaluma. Avinage hosts WSET courses from Odyssey Wine Academy. (Tina Caputo)

Odyssey Wine Academy

Located at Bacchus Landing in Healdsburg and Avinage wine shop in Petaluma, Odyssey Wine Academy offers three levels of WSET certification courses ($385-$1,600), as well as smaller, private classes on request. The single-day Level 1 course, aimed at wine novices, introduces students to the components of Old- and New World wines. Level 2, consisting of two full-day classes, is better suited to people who work in the wine industry or already have some wine knowledge and would like to make a career change. The intensive Level 3 course, a precursor to the WSET Diploma certification, involves four months of advanced classes.

Bacchus Landing: 14210 Bacchus Landing Way, Healdsburg. Avinage: 15 Petaluma Blvd. N, Petaluma. odysseywineacademy.com

Napa Valley wine Classes
Compline wine bar/restaurant/merchant sells a selection of wines with notes to educate and help the buyer at the Napa restaurant. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Compline wine bar/restaurant/merchant sells a selection of wines with notes to educate and help the buyer at the Napa restaurant. This restaurant and wine shop offers seated wine seminars throughout the year. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The cheeseburger and duck-fat fries at Compline Restaurant in Napa, Thursday, Jan. 25, 2024. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
The cheeseburger and duck-fat fries at Compline Restaurant in Napa, Thursday, Jan. 25, 2024. This restaurant and wine shop offers seated wine seminars throughout the year. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Compline

A locals’ favorite for its excellent burger with duck fat fries and its intriguing wine selection, this restaurant and wine shop in downtown Napa also offers seated wine seminars ($100) throughout the year. Recent themes for the two-hour evening sessions have included a tasting with Axel Heinz of Château Lascombes in Bordeaux and a Tokaj Masterclass with Hungarian wine importer Eric Danch.

1300 First St., Suite 312, Napa. complinewine.com

The Culinary Institute of America at Copia

For those who want to know the full story behind one of California’s most famous appellations, the CIA’s local outpost offers The History of Napa Valley in 8 Glasses ($85). Over 90 minutes, participants learn about the region’s soils and microclimates while tasting wines from some of the region’s pioneers.

500 First St., Napa. ciafoodies.com

Napa Valley Wine Academy

Along with WSET Level 1 to Level 4 courses ($399-$1,197), the academy offers weekly blind tasting workshops ($45). The hourlong study sessions are led by Master of Wine candidates and suitable for anyone who wants to become a better taster, delve into wine structure, grape varieties and more. Monthly master class sessions ($129) feature interactive tastings led by top wine specialists, covering such topics as Coombsville Cabernet Franc. The two-day Champagne Specialist course ($799) explores the history, production methods and tasting techniques of French sparkling wines. For those who can’t make it to in-person classes, there are lots of online options.

2501 Oak St., Napa. napavalleywineacademy.com

‘Everything Aligned’: Local Couple’s Santa Rosa Wedding Honors Heritage and Cultural Traditions

Angelina and Josue Lagunas at their wedding in Santa Rosa. (Erin Perkins)

Angelina and Josue Lagunas shared a yearslong journey to the altar. The couple grew up together in Windsor and were high school classmates — but it wasn’t until Josue reached out during the pandemic in 2020 that their connection deepened.

“The timing wasn’t right when we first met,” Josue says. “Each time we reconnected, we were more defined. By the time we got together, we were the best versions of ourselves. Everything aligned.”

Angelina, an events manager at the Montage Healdsburg resort, and Josue, a senior clerk in Marin County who issues marriage licenses and officiates civil ceremonies, brought plenty of wedding expertise to the table. Their wedding was held in May at the Hyatt Regency Sonoma Wine Country in Santa Rosa.

Josue and Angelina Lagunas at their wedding in Santa Rosa
Josue and Angelina Lagunas at their wedding in Santa Rosa. (Erin Perkins)

With their shared roots in Sonoma County, the couple wanted to create a celebration that honored their heritage and cultural traditions. The menu was a specific focus, with appetizers inspired by Angelina’s Filipino roots and a family-style Mexican feast in tribute to Josue, with ceviche, rice, beans and handmade tortillas.

During the meal, guests took in a traditional mariachi performance, a gift to the couple from Angelina’s brother. “A lot of the family was surprised,” says Angelina. They originally wanted to book a smaller band, but when they weren’t available, they ended up with a 12-piece band, including a harp player.

Mariachi Barragan played during the dinner hour. (Erin Perkins)
Mariachi Barragan played during the dinner hour. (Erin Perkins)

Dancing was another key element of the day, just as important to the couple as the food and location. “We love to dance and throw a good party,” says Angelina.

The couple opted for a much larger dance floor than usual to accommodate a night of celebrating together. They danced until the early hours of the morning. “I’m so glad we got the bigger dance floor, because it was packed the whole time,” says Angelina.

A chic, two-tiered cake from Flour and Bloom Cakes. (Erin Perkins)
A chic, two-tiered cake from Flour and Bloom Cakes. (Erin Perkins)

Resources

Venue: Hyatt Regency Sonoma Wine Country, Santa Rosa

Planner: Blissful Events

Photography: Erin Perkins Photography

Video: Romero Creative Studio

Florals: Vanda Floral Design

Cake: Flour and Bloom Cakes

DJ: Nor Cal Pro Sound

Rentals: Encore Events Rentals

Hair and Makeup: Jacque Oh Beauty

Dress: Wine Country Bride Boutique

Music: Mariachi Barragan

Sonoma Valley Wineries Offer Special $15 Tastings During Sonoma Sips

Wine and snacks at Abbott’s Passage in Glen Ellen. (Courtesy Abbott’s Passage)

Wine lovers, rejoice! For one month only, Sonoma Valley wineries are offering premium tastings at an unbeatable price. Sonoma Sips, running from Feb. 15 to March 15, invites visitors to experience world-class wines for just $15 per tasting at 16 participating wineries.

The event, a collaboration between the Sonoma Valley Visitors Bureau and Sonoma Valley Vintners & Growers, is designed to make wine tasting more accessible. Whether you’re a seasoned enthusiast or a first-time visitor, Sonoma Sips offers the perfect opportunity to sample a variety of wines, from rich Pinot Noirs to refreshing Chardonnays.

“Wine Country can be intimidating to new visitors who don’t know what they want or where to start. Sonoma Sips embodies what makes Sonoma Valley so special,” said Tim Zahner, executive director of the Sonoma Valley Visitors Bureau, in a press release. “It’s a welcoming invitation to try something new in a beautiful place with friendly people.”

Sonoma Sips
Sonoma Sips, running from Feb. 15 to March 15, invites visitors to experience world-class wines for just $15 per tasting at 16 participating wineries. (Courtesy Sonoma Sips)

Taking part in Sonoma Sips is simple. Visitors can choose from a list of participating wineries, most of which don’t require reservations. Upon arrival, guests just need to mention they are there for Sonoma Sips to unlock the special tasting offer. Each winery will curate a selection of wines to showcase, allowing guests to explore a range of flavors and styles. Visitors can purchase bottles to take home or join a winery’s wine club for exclusive, year-round perks.

“Don’t miss this rare opportunity to experience the best of Sonoma Valley wines at an incredible value,” Zahner said in the release. “Gather your friends, plan a day trip, or make it a weekend escape to soak in the beauty and bounty of California’s Wine Country this winter.”

For more details and a list of participating wineries, visit sonomavalley.com. Looking for free wine tastings? Check out some Wine Country wineries offering complimentary tastings here.

A Rural Sonoma Coast Lodge Provides the Ideal, Intimate Backdrop for Bay Area Couple’s Wedding

After the storm, Megan and Ahmed Modan were rewarded with beautiful light for portraits. (Amy DeBonis)

On a gorgeous afternoon last May, after hours of rain and “a proper thunderstorm,” the skies cleared and the lawns dried out just in time for Megan Gaunt and Ahmed Modan to exchange vows at the rural Driftwood Lodge in Jenner.

The couple first met while working at San Francisco’s Belcampo Meat Co. and have both transitioned to careers in tech. They were married by their former manager from Belcampo, who has witnessed their relationship from the start.

The couple fell in love with the rural lodge and retreat center, which has a broad grassy meadow with miles-wide views of the Pacific — the ideal backdrop for the intimate, getaway wedding weekend the couple envisioned.

“We loved the Sonoma vibe and wanted a place everyone would enjoy traveling to,” says Megan.

Rural Sonoma Coast wedding
Megan and Ahmed Modan’s afternoon wedding ceremony took place at The Driftwood Lodge on the Sonoma Coast in Jenner. (Amy DeBonis)

Megan and Ahmed found meaning by including their family in the celebration, including Ahmed’s mother, who prepared a traditional Indian meal of butter chicken, biryani and samosas the night before the wedding.

“She’s an amazing cook — it fed everyone,” says Megan.

The morning of the wedding, Ahmed’s mother also adorned Megan’s hands with intricate henna designs, improvising the pattern to complement the patterns in her wedding dress. Ahmed opted for a bold white suit with a graphic design to stand out from his groomsmen.

Megan and Ahmed Modan married in May of 2024. The morning of the wedding, Ahmed’s mother adorned Megan’s hands with intricate henna designs, improvising the pattern to complement the patterns in her wedding dress. Ahmed opted for a bold white suit with a graphic design to stand out from his groomsmen. (Amy DeBonis)
Megan and Ahmed Modan married in May of 2024, enjoying an intimate, getaway wedding weekend at a rural Sonoma Coast lodge. (Amy DeBonis)

“When else am I going to be able to wear an Alexander McQueen suit?” he says. “If she’s going to go all out for her dress, I wanted to go all out with my suit.”

The May ceremony included a surprise nod to the movie “Star Wars,” courtesy of Megan’s mom. “She latched onto the idea of May the Fourth and surprised us with light sabers for the guests before our first dance,” says Megan.

The unexpected touch injected an extra layer of joy and merriment as the dance party carried on into the evening.

Rural Sonoma Coast wedding
Sebastopol-based caterer The Cook and the Drummer provided catering for Megan and Ahmed Modan’s wedding ceremony. (Amy DeBonis)
The Local Bartenders provided drinks for Megan and Ahmed Moran's May wedding. (Amy DeBonis)
The Local Bartenders provided drinks for Megan and Ahmed Moran’s May wedding. (Amy DeBonis)

Resources

Venue: The Driftwood Lodge, Jenner

Photography: Amy DeBonis Photography

Coordinator: Cala Larioni

Catering: The Cook and the Drummer

Rentals: Bright Event Rentals

Drinks: The Local Bartenders

Hair and Makeup: Brush The Salon

Music: Runaway DJ

Transportation: Pure Luxury Transportation

Restrooms: American Sanitation

Internationally Renowned Artist Richard Diebenkorn Took Inspiration From Rural Alexander Valley Landscape

DO NOT REPURPOSE WITHOUT PERMISSION. Copyright of Richard Diebenkorn Foundation Archives
Artist Richard Diebenkorn in his Healdsburg studio, 1988. (C. Smith / Richard Diebenkorn Foundation Archives)

Near the end of his career, artist Richard Diebenkorn realized he needed to escape the very place he was famous for painting — Ocean Park, the bustling Santa Monica neighborhood that inspired his widely celebrated series of mesmerizing, abstract patterns and delicately hued landscapes.

After two decades in west Los Angeles, he had begun to feel “hemmed in and closed in,” he told friends. Never one to crave the limelight, he cherished his alone time in the studio, something that was harder to come by each day.

So, in the mid-1980s, he and his wife Phyllis began to search for a change of scenery, embarking on long road trips throughout California, the Southwest and the Midwest. They looked at a ranch in Montana. They thought about returning to Albuquerque. Then they pondered relocating to Springville, San Luis Obispo, Sonora and Reno before landing back in the Bay Area, where he had attended Stanford University in the 1940s and painted a well-known series of Berkeley paintings in the 1950s.

On the advice of friend Dick McDonough, they toured northern Sonoma County. One day, standing in front of an 1878 white farmhouse in Alexander Valley, Richard Diebenkorn fell for a new sense of place. It was not just the house, topped off with an ornate widow’s walk and meticulously restored by its previous owner, a former racing jockey. Nor the remote location on 6 acres, set back from winding West Soda Rock Lane and framed by a white corral fence. But also the surrounding vines, nearby Russian River and a towering, siren-like peak in the distance. Miles from the ocean, it was a landscape less defined by the Pacific blues of Ocean Park, expanding the palette to vibrant greens and reds — even yellow and gold when the spring mustard was in bloom.

DO NOT REPURPOSE WITHOUT PERMISSION. Copyright of Richard Diebenkorn Foundation Archives
The view from the porch of the Diebenkorn family home in Healdsburg, circa 1988-1993. (Richard Diebenkorn Foundation Archives)
DO NOT REPURPOSE WITHOUT PERMISSION. Copyright of Artists Rights Society/Richard Diebenkorn Foundation
An untitled work from Diebenkorn’s Healdsburg years, with a color palette and forms that seem to echo the view of vineyards and mountains from his front porch. “Untitled” c. 1988-1992, gouache, crayon and graphite on joined paper. (Artists Rights Society/Richard Diebenkorn Foundation)

Gazing across quilted vineyards, Diebenkorn could see Mount St. Helena from almost anywhere on the property. It inspired him. Later, he would introduce it to newcomers as “my Montagne Sainte-Victoire” or “Montagne de Cézanne,” in honor of the post-impressionist French painter, who recreated the iconic French mountain dozens of times.

“What drew him to (the house) was its simplicity and its lack of ostentatiousness,” says Andrea Liguori, executive director of the Richard Diebenkorn Foundation in Berkeley. “They chose that house visually, and he pursued it through his real estate agent and learned that it was, in fact, available. So, he manifested their moving into that house, like people generally can’t do now, where you just fall in love with a house.”

In 1987, after buying the two-story, five-bedroom white farmhouse (for $555,000 at the time), the Diebenkorns hired Berkeley designer Jay Claiborne to convert the barn-style garage into an art studio, adding a stark, angular second floor with clerestory windows that allowed natural light to fill the space. Although Claiborne installed a fancy new lighting system, Diebenkorn was content to use the simple, hooded clip-on aluminum lights he’d hung in studios for decades.

Tension Beneath Calm

By the spring of 1988, the great American painter had traded fast-paced Los Angeles for the slow hum of rural Sonoma County. Often referred to as “the Healdsburg years,” it’s a chapter in his life and a period in his work that doesn’t always get a lot of attention.

In an interview a few months before moving, Diebenkorn seemed almost anxious. Surrounded by paintings in his Ocean Park studio, Diebenkorn admitted “my fingers are crossed” about the move. He had fallen for Alexander Valley, but he added, “my concern is that it’s possibly just a little bit too beautiful. There won’t be enough irritants. There’s plenty of that here (in Los Angeles). I suppose I can always come back here and be irritated.”

It had always been a part of his process, that “tension beneath calm” referenced throughout his career. A calm, bespectacled, unpretentious man, Diebenkorn also had a wry sense of humor, remembers printmaker Renée Bott, who worked with him in the ’80s and ’90s on several large-scale prints he made at Crown Point Press in San Francisco. Diebenkorn and his close friend Wayne Thiebaud were two of the first artists to experiment with etchings and intaglio at the pioneering press.

The necessary “irritants” he mentioned were very much a part of his process, she says. “His paintings were about beauty and composition, and the beauty that happens when something’s well composed,” says Bott. “But he also wanted to create tension in his work, and I think he lived that way, too.”

She once worked on prints with him in a makeshift San Francisco studio, salvaged from a former autobody shop after the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake, as rats scurried throughout the space. “It was really beautiful to watch him work, because I always felt like he was solving a problem,” she says.

DO NOT REPURPOSE WITHOUT PERMISSION. Copyright of Richard Diebenkorn Foundation Archives
Richard Diebenkorn’s studio in 1993. The artist often kept works in progress pinned up on the wall for months. (Kathie Longinotti / Richard Diebenkorn Foundation Archives)

In his Alexander Valley studio, Diebenkorn often settled into a favorite chair he’d brought from Ocean Park, staring at works-in-progress for hours. “He had this energy for the struggle in the studio,” says foundation director Andrea Liguori. “For him, the act of making a painting was the goal. It was the process of figuring out that was of more interest to him, ultimately, than the end product.”

Looking at his writings over the years, she says, “It’s really fascinating that when he got too comfortable, he complained about it, because then there was no struggle anymore.”

Bott visited the Diebenkorns several times, often dining outdoors eating lunches that Phyllis prepared, beside a long, black-tiled pool and a rolling grass lawn. “It felt like a scene out of some romantic movie,” she remembers. “I felt like I was in Provence.” But what she remembers most about Diebenkorn is his humble nature — “very introspective and quiet.”

When he moved into his new Healdsburg studio, he brought two unfinished “Ocean Park” canvases from Santa Monica. At around 8 feet tall, they were so large that his contractor had to raise a gateway arch near the entrance to the property, so the moving truck transporting the paintings could pass underneath.

A Refuge in the Valley

DO NOT REPURPOSE WITHOUT PERMISSION. Copyright of Artists Rights Society/Richard Diebenkorn Foundation
An untitled work produced by Diebenkorn at his studio in Healdsburg. It’s impossible to know for certain whether Diebenkorn was referencing the Russian River and vineyard blocks in this work, but Sonoma locals may pick up hints of a familiar landscape. “Untitled,” c. 1988-1992. Watercolor, paper tape, graphite, ink, crayon and colored pencil on torn-and-taped paper. (Artists Rights Society/Richard Diebenkorn Foundation)

It didn’t take long for the painter to feel at ease in his new backdrop. In 1988, when a “CBS Sunday Morning” production crew came to visit, Diebenkorn looked every bit the artist in transition, acclimating to his new surroundings, walking through autumnal vineyards with his dogs Amie and Lucy, talking about sketching scenes along the banks of the Russian River. He seemed eager to explore the light and geometry of the area.

“I think what an artist does is all about what’s around him,” he told the interviewer. “His environment — cultural, physical and visual.”

As the scenery changed, so did his palette — not immediately, but measured over time with daily walks through the vineyards. “After more than two decades in Santa Monica, his brain and body must have been madly recalibrating from all of the change: discernible seasons, a new spectrum of California colors (more greens and yellows, fewer blues), a jarringly different vastness (no more miles of sand and crashing waves, just parallel lines of vines extending up into quiet mountain ranges),” his granddaughter Phyllis Grant, a Berkeley author, once wrote.

In Santa Monica, Diebenkorn had often chatted over his fence with his neighbor Ry Cooder, the blues and world musician. His L.A. social circle included painter William Brice, film producer Ray Stark, art dealer Irving Blum and playwright Edward Albee. In Alexander Valley, Richard and Phyllis found new friends, making an instant connection with Dick and Mary Hafner, who owned nearby Hafner Vineyards. A former journalist, Dick Hafner had worked in public affairs at UC Berkeley, not far from where the Diebenkorns lived in the ’50s and ’60s.

“It was very much a symbiotic relationship,” says son Scott Hafner, a managing partner at the family winery today. “They respected that someone moves to this area, probably in part because they want the solitude, and that lack of glitziness has some attractiveness.”

DO NOT REPURPOSE WITHOUT PERMISSION. Copyright of Artists Rights Society/Richard Diebenkorn Foundation
“Soda Rock I,” 1988, pasted paper, gouache, fabric, paper-lined foil, crayon and plastic on paper. (Artists Rights Society/Richard Diebenkorn Foundation)

The two couples spent many late evenings around a table, drinking wine and talking — sometimes at the Diebenkorns’ farmhouse, other times on the terrace overlooking the valley from the Hafner property on Pine Flat Road. The couples often hiked through the vineyards or along the river together, too. On his sojourns, Diebenkorn would pocket scraps of litter, like bottle caps, or bits of paper or plastic. The brightly colored objects would often find their way into his art, appearing in the collage “Skating Down the River at Soda Rock,” a gift to his granddaughter before she moved to New York for college.

But at age 66, Diebenkorn’s health began to decline. A few months after the “CBS Sunday Morning” episode aired, he took a winter walk and felt out of breath. He had to lay down and rest. Doctors later discovered a damaged aortic valve, and during surgery he developed an infection.

For a while, his studio was moved to a location inside the house. After a six-month recovery, he wrote a letter to his friend, the art consultant Mary Keesling, saying, “I am working daily in my Healdsburg studio, and think I should have come up here years ago.”

In 1991, Press Democrat reporter Tim Fish sat with Diebenkorn on his front porch, overlooking the vineyards in the distance. Fish remembers he was allotted one hour for the interview, and how Phyllis “was very protective of his time and level of energy.”

“He was fragile, but still mentally sharp,” recalls Fish, now a senior editor at Wine Spectator. “He seemed to truly enjoy talking about his life and work.” Fish took the photo that appeared in the newspaper — a portrait of Diebenkorn standing, his glasses removed, both hands in his jean pockets — because Phyllis wouldn’t allow a photographer.

While they were sitting on the porch, Diebenkorn pointed again to the westward summit he so loved.

When Fish asked him if Alexander Valley, like Ocean Park, had influenced his new work, Diebenkorn said, “That’s very hard to tell. I don’t go to a place for that reason. When I saw this place, I knew it right away. If I like a place, I kind of have a rapport with it.”

What Might Have Followed

DO NOT REPURPOSE WITHOUT PERMISSION. Copyright of Richard Diebenkorn Foundation Archives
Richard Diebenkorn with his wife, Phyllis, and children, Gretchen and Christopher, in nearby vineyards, Healdsburg, 1988-1993. (Richard Diebenkorn Foundation Archives)

It’s difficult to predict what effect Alexander Valley might have had on future work. In 1992, Diebenkorn’s health continued to worsen, and in March of 1993, he died of pulmonary failure in Berkeley. A New York Times obituary described him as “one of the premier American painters of the postwar era.”

In the five years he lived in Alexander Valley, the two 8-foot-tall, unfinished “Ocean Park” series paintings he brought from Santa Monica were never unwrapped, and never hung on the hooks driven into the wall to support them. In fact, after moving to Northern California, he would never paint on canvas again. He only produced works on paper — with charcoal, gouache and watercolor — a practice he often undertook while transitioning to a major new period of creativity.

Over the years, he wrote countless notes to himself in the studio on scraps of paper that he saved as reminders or words of encouragement to stay the course. One of them reads, “Have confidence in this landscape thing — even though it seems to have gone to hell today.” Another says, “Each painting requires weeks of dismal and embarrassing manipulation of meaningless lines and spaces. I never know what funny shift will put me on the track.”

During this time, even as he retreated to the country and focused on more intimate works on paper, his international fame continued to grow. His large-scale paintings were exhibited at the Museum of Modern Art in New York and the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, fetching more than $1 million from art collectors, and he was the subject of a feature profile in The New York Times Magazine in 1992.

“He was looking for a change of place, a change of space, a change of light, a change of look, and I think he really happily found that up there,” says John Van Doren, owner of Van Doren Waxter gallery in New York. In 2014, the gallery worked with the Diebenkorn family to stage the well-received exhibit “The Healdsburg Years 1988-1993.”

Looking back on this time of transition, Van Doren says, “It’s a shame that we don’t know where that went, because he was clearly getting into new approaches and new forms in the work that he was making. We have what we have, which is glorious.

But, of course, it would have been great to know what followed.”

DO NOT REPURPOSE WITHOUT PERMISSION. Copyright of Artists Rights Society/Richard Diebenkorn Foundation
“I can’t help but look at that skull and think there’s at least some reference to the passage of time,” says gallerist John Van Doren, who helped organize a major public exhibition of Richard Diebenkorn’s Healdsburg work in 2014. ‘Skull,’ 1992. Watercolor, graphite and pasted paper on paper. (Artists Rights Society/Richard Diebenkorn Foundation)

One work in the 2014 exhibit that might be hard to pick out of a lineup as distinctly Diebenkorn, is a watercolor and graphite still-life of a skull, conjuring a classic memento mori symbolism dating back to the Renaissance. “I can’t help but look at that skull and think that there’s at least some reference to the passage of time,” says Van Doren.

Taking a closer look at some of his last works, Liguori and other art scholars have noticed how “the work got smaller, with rounder shapes and kind of mysterious with playful symbols… The little wheels and little circles of curiosity, little eyes and buttons and these fun shapes.”

When Diebenkorn was a child, his maternal grandmother gave him a set of playing cards that reproduced the medieval Bayeux Tapestry. He was also obsessed with the imagery of clubs and spades. Similar symbols of heraldry had cropped up in previous artwork over the decades and then reemerged during his time in Healdsburg.

“It makes you wonder, was he aware that he was dying soon?” says Liguori. “Was he thinking about childhood? Was he having this sort of summation of life experience that people can have when they’re in their last few years of life?”

Today, his daughter Gretchen Diebenkorn Grant still owns the white farmhouse on West Soda Rock Lane. She works with the Richard Diebenkorn Foundation to help preserve her father’s legacy and make his archives available to curious admirers and researchers. After the morning fog burns off in the valley, she can walk out the front door and see a mountainous reminder of her father in the distance, a post-impressionistic monument to Diebenkorn’s way of looking at the world.

Split by the Russian River and painted over with vineyards that turn lush green every summer, fiery red and gold in autumn, and almost barren brown this time of year, Alexander Valley was the last place that had that effect on him.

For more information on the artist, visit the Richard Diebenkorn Foundation at diebenkorn.org.

Thumbprint Cellars Closes Downtown Healdsburg Tasting Room After 15 Years

San Francisco visitors taste wine at the Thumbprint Cellars tasting room in downtown Healdsburg. (Erik Castro / for The Press Democrat)

Thumbprint Cellars held its last wine tasting over the weekend at its Healdsburg Plaza tasting room, as first reported by The Healdsburg Tribune.

It is the latest in a string of recent tasting room closures in Wine Country — last week, two Napa Valley wineries shuttered their tasting rooms. Newton Vineyard in St. Helena and two of Silver Oak Cellars’ Twomey tasting rooms, in Calistoga and Philo, announced their closures.

However, this is not the end for Thumbprint Cellars, whose Plaza-facing tasting room enjoyed over 15 years of foot traffic on downtown Healdsburg’s Matheson Street. The north county winery will move all operations to its rural headquarters in Geyserville. In addition to the move, Thumbprint will also shift its business model to focus more on experiences for wine club members.

In an email Wednesday, Thumbprint founder Scott Lindstrom-Dake stated the team has “begun the move from our downtown Healdsburg tasting room we have lovingly referred to as ‘The Lounge’ over the past 20 years. The location is now closed for tasting and sales.”

Lindstrom-Dake stated they are in the process of consolidating the business and “creating a new venue for tasting and sales at our Geyserville location,” the details of which will be announced soon.

The winery’s first event at its Geyserville location, a club member pickup party, is tentatively slated for April, according to the Healdsburg Tribune article. Thumbprint also plans to hold more public events and wine tastings by early summer.

Thumbprint wine
Thumbprint Cellars’ 2013 Voigner. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Since Thumbprint’s first release in 1995, founders Scott and Erica Lindstrom-Dake have been busy building the reputation of their boutique winery. They opened their first tasting room in 2004 in downtown Healdsburg, which they later relocated in 2009 to its popular Matheson Street home. In 2020, the founders’ son, Carter Lindstrom-Dake, helped remodel the tasting room.

Thumbprint wines have achieved plenty of success in recent years. In the 2021 North Coast Wine Challenge in April, three of the winery’s reds earned gold medals — the 2017 Ramazzotti Vineyard Cabernet Franc (94 points), 2020 Teldeschi Vineyard Dan’s Block Valdiguie (90 points) and 2016 Climax Red Blend (90 points). Seven months later, in the 2021 San Francisco International Wine Competition in November, Thumbprint’s 2017 Alexander Valley Premium Bordeaux Blend scored a near-perfect 99 points, earning it a Double Gold medal.

Other notable wineries in the area, such as Scribe Winery in Sonoma, have opted to offer member-exclusive tasting experiences and pickup parties. Thumbprint Cellars appears optimistic for the change of focus.

“We are excited for the next Thumbprint Cellars adventure!” Scott Lindstrom-Dake stated.

Those Working To Preserve the Russian River Watershed’s Native Coho Salmon Offer Hope for a Flourishing Future

Coho salmon
Sonoma’s Russian River watershed was historically home to hearty populations of native salmon. After Russian River surveys in the early 2000s revealed that local species had dwindled to dangerously low numbers, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Sonoma Water and other local agencies have spent the past two decades trying to preserve the unique genetics of native coho salmon. (Kaare Iverson)

Santa Rosa photographer Kaare Iverson was on a photo assignment for a winery along Dry Creek outside Healdsburg when a colossal construction project caught his eye.

“I found these mysterious wooden pillars sprouting from the edge of the creek,” he remembers. Iverson later learned the pillars were part of a project to create habitat for endangered salmon. “I felt such an immense sense of pride in my community, that we would exert such enormous effort at such expense for conservation.”

Iverson grew up in a commercial fishing family in the Prince Rupert region of northern British Columbia, where a healthy salmon population makes annual returns in prodigious numbers. After moving to Sonoma County, Iverson became curious about the natural history of the Russian River watershed and, he says, “a bit obsessed with the idea that it once held, and could again hold, enormous runs of coho and chinook.”

Sonoma’s Russian River watershed was historically home to hearty populations of native salmon like those Iverson was familiar with in British Columbia. After Russian River surveys in the early 2000s revealed that local species had dwindled to dangerously low numbers, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Sonoma Water and other local agencies have spent the past two decades trying to preserve the unique genetics of native coho salmon.

Coho salmon
Sonoma’s Russian River watershed was historically home to hearty populations of native salmon. (Kaare Iverson)
Sonoma’s Russian River watershed was historically home to hearty populations of native salmon. However, Russian River surveys in the early 2000s revealed that local species had dwindled to dangerously low numbers. (Kaare Iverson)
Sonoma’s Russian River watershed was historically home to hearty populations of native salmon. However, Russian River surveys in the early 2000s revealed that local species had dwindled to dangerously low numbers. (Kaare Iverson)

The contrast between the waters where Iverson grew up fishing with his father and the Russian River, where salmon populations have been so depleted, has led Iverson to consider what it would be like to live in a world without wild salmon. “I know what this place could be like… and I recognize that it’s going to take a considerable shift in public perception to get it there.”

For the project, Iverson photographed at the Warm Springs Fish Hatchery west of Geyserville, home to native coho breeding programs, as well as at several restoration locations in the Russian River watershed. He used both modern equipment and a large-format Ansco camera that, remarkably, once belonged to Ansel Adams. Iverson’s stepfather’s cousin, who worked in a framing shop in Carmel, acquired the camera in the 1980s and later passed it to Iverson.

Iverson’s portraits of the salmon — and the people working to save them — convey his belief in treating overlooked populations with the same reverence reserved for charismatic, keystone species like bison and grizzly bears. Iverson says he wanted to create portraits “that give these fish a sense of personality, going so far as to anthropomorphize them in a way that feels human, personal and conversational.”

Beyond composing his alluring images, Iverson brings a strong sense of purpose to the work, connecting viewers with the roots of their natural history — “so that the knowledge of what this watershed could be is not lost, and so that we can all remember what it is we should be fighting for.”

Precocious Jack

Coho salmon
A precocious jack is a salmon that reaches sexual maturity at age two rather than the typical three years, a natural adaptation that leads to greater genetic diversity. This coho salmon represents a successful return of adult spawning salmon to the Russian River watershed. (Kaare Iverson)

A precocious jack is a salmon that reaches sexual maturity at age two rather than the typical three years, a natural adaptation that leads to greater genetic diversity.

Iverson had been granted a single day to shoot at Geyserville’s Warm Springs Fish Hatchery. But the water that day was filled with silt, too opaque to create the portraits he’d envisioned. Fortunately, a biologist remembered they’d frozen about 20 gallons of clearer lake water, “just enough to fill the aquarium we were using to hold the fish,” Iverson recalls. The lake water still contained a small amount of silt; those are the flecks in the photo.

“After a few test images, I realized I could modify my lighting such that the silt would catch the light and create a bit of a vignette around the fish,” he says. “And it added depth and a sense of the water itself that I appreciate more than the original idea.”

A Brighter Dawn

The sun rises over a recently built side channel on Sonoma County's Dry Creek. The vertical stumps that at first appear as a recently logged streamside are actually full length logs that have been pneumatically driven into the ground to stabilize flow enhancing features. The denuded ground has been stripped of exotic plant species and reseeded with native riparian species. This stretch of water will maintain steady, cool and slow flowing water that is ideal for young Coho salmon. (Kaare Iverson)
The sun rises over a recently built side channel on Sonoma County’s Dry Creek. The vertical stumps that at first appear as a recently logged streamside are actually full length logs that have been pneumatically driven into the ground to stabilize flow enhancing features. The denuded ground has been stripped of invasive plant species and reseeded with native riparian species. This stretch of water will maintain steady, cool and slow flowing water that is ideal for young coho salmon. (Kaare Iverson)

Water trickles into one of dozens of new enhancement sites along Dry Creek. Seeded with native flora and studded with wooden poles, this development will form a year-round, cool-water refuge for young salmonids and other native animals. Before the first sprout broke through the burlap, the location was already occupied by fish-eating birds, a sign of the ecosystem coming back to life.

“I loved watching this site develop,” Iverson says. “To see a landscape torn apart by machines meticulously reassembled with engineered waterways, and ultimately repopulated by native animals, was inspiring. An untrained eye could easily mistake this site for a devastated clear-cut landscape, rather than a setting for potential ecological energy. There’s a definite sense of momentum.”

Handle with Care

Coho salmon
Biologist Ken Leister gently grips a female salmon at Warm Springs Fish Hatchery in Geyserville. (Kaare Iverson)

At Warm Springs Fish Hatchery, biologist Ken Leister grips a female salmon. As part of restoration efforts, mature female salmon who return in winter to the Russian River watershed to spawn and die are instead euthanized at the hatchery. Their eggs are harvested and mixed with the milt, or sperm, of male salmon with desirable genetics, and the resulting juvenile fish are returned to local waters.

Leister holds the female salmon gently — any blood or fluids that contact the unfertilized eggs could damage them. “Each egg is important to the survival of the population. The margin for error in the recovery of these fish is slim,” Iverson says. “There’s a preciousness to how all this biological potential is handled, love and care and death and rebirth all happening at once.”

One Fish, Two Fish

A Sonoma Water staffer cleans the viewing window at a diversion dam below Wohler Bridge on the Russian River. (Kaare Iverson)
A Sonoma Water staffer cleans the viewing window at a diversion dam below Wohler Bridge on the Russian River. (Kaare Iverson)

A Sonoma Water staffer cleans the viewing window at a diversion dam below Wohler Bridge on the Russian River. This narrow passage in the dam’s fish ladder allows for an accurate count of returning fish, including both hatchery-bred fish and those born in the wild. Iverson had hoped to photograph fish going up the ladder, but few fish have returned in recent years. When he made this image in early 2023, it was already apparent that the coho that year were either unusually late in their return, or perhaps not returning at all.

“As I watched them clean the viewing window, I was immediately struck by the mix of futility and hope these scientists were harboring,” says Iverson.

Breeding for Diversity

Biologist Emily Van Seeters places fertilized coho eggs into spawning racks at Warm Springs Fish Hatchery. (Kaare Iverson)
Biologist Emily Van Seeters places fertilized coho eggs into spawning racks at Warm Springs Fish Hatchery. (Kaare Iverson)

Biologist Emily Van Seeters places fertilized coho eggs into spawning racks at Warm Springs Fish Hatchery. In winter, during spawning season, the racks are fed with a constant stream of fresh water coming out of Lake Sonoma. Each female is spawned with up to four different males for genetic diversity, according to the California Department of Fish and Wildlife.

Coho salmon
A juvenile coho raised at the hatchery is weighed before being fitted with a tracking tag. (Kaare Iverson)

A juvenile coho raised at the hatchery is weighed before being fitted with a tracking tag. The hatchery’s conservation work was honored as part of the Lake Sonoma Steelhead Festival on Saturday, Feb. 8 (steelheadfestival.org).

Human-made “Natural” Habitat

Large-scale dams such as Warm Springs are primary culprits in the decline of salmon populations. But as water temperatures rise in local creeks due to climate change, cooler water released from the depths of the reservoirs can help salmon. The problem is that high flows also wash away the gravel beds that females need for spawning, as well as stands of woody debris where juvenile salmon can shelter and grow.

Temporary equipment isolates a section of waterway so that workers can construct habitat features that will benefit young salmon. (Kaare Iverson)
Temporary equipment isolates a section of waterway so that workers can construct habitat features that will benefit young salmon. (Kaare Iverson)

“Without a place to rest, small fish would be blasted out into the main stem of the river where they stand little chance of surviving,” Iverson says.

Local agencies and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers are driving wooden poles into the riverbank and piling up brush to simulate natural habitat, as well as installing metal blockades to slow the course of the water. The first 3 miles of a planned 6-mile restoration along Dry Creek is nearly compete.

Cycle of Life

Coho salmon
Salmon typically spend their first year in a river or stream before migrating to the Pacific Ocean to live for two years. In the winter of their third year, they return to the stream where they originated to spawn and then die. (Kaare Iverson)

This hatchery salmon, after it died, was planted in Green Valley Creek by volunteer Doug Gore. Salmon typically spend their first year in a river or stream before migrating to the Pacific Ocean to live for two years. In the winter of their third year, they return to the stream where they originated to spawn and then die. Their bodies become a part of the food web, providing nutrition for small invertebrates, younger salmon and otters.

Gore tells Iverson he’s seeing less invertebrate life in the streams he visits, a concern echoed by biologists worldwide. And without the local efforts of Gore and other passionate conservationists, it’s possible that native coho might already have disappeared entirely from the Russian River watershed. That’s a world difficult to imagine. But Iverson’s images of the salmon and those seeking to steward their recovery offer hope for a more bountiful, flourishing future.

Correction (Feb. 21, 2025, 2 p.m.): This story has been updated to correct the type of equipment shown in photos for salmon habitat restoration projects.