“Life’s too short to eat sh—y barbecue” is the saucy motto for pitmaster Larry Hillix’s roving barbecue catering company War Pigs. It’s a worthy mantra for his new War Pigs Craft Kitchen in Santa Rosa.
The 12-hour smoked barbecue pulled pork sandwich on toasted brioche ($15) is a serious contender for my new favorite sandwich. It’s a stunner with piles of crispy pork bark and velvety shreds of meat topped with tangy red sauce. Order some mouth-puckering mustard sauce and spicy horseradish for dipping into any straggling bites of meat that fall onto your tray.
Or skip the bun for the all-encompassing Dirty Fries ($16), a jumble of skinny French fries plunged into a warm bath of cheese, barbecue sauce, pulled pork and coleslaw. Fried Brussels ($5) are a petite but satisfying side tossed with Balsamic vinegar for a hint of sweet, salty shaved Parmesan and bacon atop the crispy leaves. I’m also a fan of the creamy slaw.
It will take a few more trips to taste through the rest of the menu, featuring smoked chicken wings, griddled pork tacos, sliders, onion rings, fried chicken, a smoked turkey club and house-ground burger. Excellent prices for massive portions make it an even better deal.
War Pigs Craft Kitchen is inside The Clubhouse Bar & Grill run by the former owners of Whiskey Tip bar. It replaces Westside Grill, closed in 2020. War Pigs Craft Kitchen is open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.
3082 Marlow Road, Santa Rosa, 707-508-5551, bbqhustlers.com