On a television above the bar, Puerto Rican salsa dancers swivel with the kind of impossible hip action that makes Shakira seem restrained. At Santa Rosa’s El Coqui, sangria flows freely on Friday nights, congas pulse through the speakers and housemade pique — a garlicky hot sauce sharpened with vinegar — lends a little extra swagger to nearly every dish.
Festooned with Puerto Rican flags, island memorabilia and dozens of tiny coquí tree frogs, the restaurant feels more like a house party than a business. Much of that spirit comes from co-owner and chef Jackie Roman, whose compact kitchen sends out a steady procession of mofongo, chuletas and empanadas to diners making the trip from across Sonoma County and beyond.
When El Coqui opened in 2009, it was the only restaurant north of San Rafael devoted to Puerto Rican cuisine, a vibrant blend of Spanish, Indigenous and African influences still rarely represented in the region. Plates of red beans, yellow rice, roast chicken and pork chops arrive with the straightforward comfort that transcends language.
Roman, who split her childhood between New York and Puerto Rico in a family of eight siblings orbiting a lively cast of aunts, uncles and grandparents, learned early how to cook for a crowd. Her longtime friend and business partner, Tina Jackson, still laughs recalling how the pair opened the restaurant during the depths of the recession using secondhand equipment bought on Craigslist — all while trying to keep the venture secret from their employers until a local restaurant writer accidentally revealed the plan.
“I was supposed to be talking to people about refinancing and everyone was asking about the restaurant,” said Jackson, a former banker.
Through recessions, wildfires and the pandemic, El Coqui has endured.
“Despite everything, we’re still cruising along,” Jackson said.
I’ll have the usual
The menu has changed little over the years, aside from occasional specials Roman adds on impulse. Most regulars settle into familiar routines, and signature dishes like the Pollo al Horno, roast chicken ($19 lunch/$22.75 dinner), and the Canoa con Carne Molida, a sweet plantain stuffed with ground beef ($19/$21), have earned loyal followings.
The food can appear deceptively simple, rooted in family recipes but elevated by Roman’s instinctive touch. Ask for details about the seasoning, however, and she becomes notably less forthcoming.
“A large part of why we’ve been so successful is because of our reputation. People love Jackie’s food,” Jackson said.
Like many longtime customers, I often default to the same order: the beef-and-cheese stuffed sweet plantain, rich and soothing in all the right ways. Still, it is worth straying for meat-filled empanadas; Tostones Montaditos con queso, mashed plantains topped with cheese ($12.99); Mofongo Criolla estilo Boriqua with shrimp ($23) or the Cubano sandwich ($17.99), layered with ham, roast pork, pickles, mayonnaise and mustard.
Bottles of pique sit on every table, packed with garlic, peppers, peppercorns and herbs, ready to be splashed over nearly everything. Cocktails — Cuba Libres, piña coladas and a Michelada bloody mary sharpened with pique ($8-$8.50) — pair well with the boldly seasoned, though not overly spicy, food. Desserts like coconut flan and creamy rice pudding ($9.50) make a persuasive argument for saving room.
Nearly two decades after opening, El Coqui still feels like one of Sonoma County’s liveliest family parties, complete with gregarious music, generous portions and plenty of cha-cha-cha charm.
Fun fact
As a teenager spending summers with family in Puerto Rico, Roman discovered an entrepreneurial opportunity next door: her neighbor was Draco Rosa of the 1980s boy band Menudo. At 14, she sold eager fans clumps of his lawn for $5 and $10 and charged them for glimpses into his bedroom window from her aunt’s backyard.
“I made a lot of money that summer,” she said.
The perks
Happy hour runs from 3-6 p.m. Monday through Friday, with $5 sangrias and $5 bacon-wrapped sweet plantains. Tuesday is Taco Rican night, with Puerto Rican-style tacos made from pollo al horno.
The place
El Coqui is at 400 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-542-8868, elcoqui2eat.com. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday and noon to 9 p.m. Sunday.