Presidential candidates Hillary Clinton, left ( Photo by Joseph Sohm), and Donald Trump, right. (Photo by A. Katz)
So it begins. Tonight, Hillary Clinton and Donald Trump will face off in the first round of presidential debates at 9 p.m. ET (6 p.m. PT). And, all over the country and around the world, people are getting ready to see the debate screened — on televisions, computers, and smartphones.
Taking the stage at Hofstra University on Long Island, NY, the presidential candidates are expected to battle it out in front of a record audience. Recent polls predict that over 100 million people will watch the 90-minute debate, ratings that would steal the spotlight from prime time prima donna “Monday Night Football” on ESPN — and possibly score higher than the Super Bowl.
The highly anticipated presidential debate will take place 56 years to date after the first televised presidential debate in American history — that between John F. Kennedy and Richard M. Nixon. Much like 1960, two vastly different candidates will duel for the White House on September 26. Unlike 1960, on-camera personality has now become a near prerequisite for candidates vying in the presidential race. Tonight, the glaring stage lights will be hot on Hillary Clinton and Donald Trump.
If you’re planning to be one of the millions watching the debate — but would prefer to add a little party to your politics — we’ve listed the (surprisingly few) Sonoma County bars that will tune in their TV sets to the tunes of Hillary and Donald:
Brew Coffee & Beer – Santa Rosa
Pair presidential politics with pour-overs, pizza, pastries, craft beer and bites. Happy Hour(s): 4-6 p.m. and 8-10 p.m., $1 off beer and cider on tap, and wine by the glass.
There’s more to Brew than just coffee and beer. (Photo by Heather Irwin)
Pub Republic – Petaluma
Pints and politics at a pub — you might think for a split second that you’re in England, until you see the burgers. Such succulent patties will turn anyone into a proud patriot. Happy Hour Menu: 3-6 p.m.
Pub Republic in Petaluma will screen the debate, but might turn the sound off. (Photo courtesy of Pub Republic)
Taps Beer & Kitchen – Petaluma
If your idea of the perfect political party is a feast for your favorite candidate, Taps’s got you covered with burgers and brews. Happy Hour Menu: 2-4 p.m.
54 E. Washington Street, Petaluma, 707-763-6700, petalumataps.com
B&V Whiskey Bar & Grille – Sonoma
Nothing goes hand in hand like whiskey and long-winded political arguments. Some steak on the side and you’re all set. Happy Hour Menu: 3-6 p.m.
400 1st Street East, Sonoma, 707-938-7110, bvsonoma.com
Sonoma County Democrats and Republicans will host Debate Watch Parties at Round Table Pizza – in Sonoma and Santa Rosa. (Photo courtesy of Round Table Pizza)
If you’d like to toe the party line on Monday night, Round Table Pizza in Santa Rosa or Sonoma – depending on political preference – is the spot.
The Sonoma Valley Democrats are putting on a “no-host” Debate Watch Party at 5:30 p.m. at Round Table Pizza in Sonoma (201 W Napa St, Sonoma, in the Market Place Shopping Center). The Sonoma County Republican Party will host their Debate Watch Party, starting at 5:30 p.m., at Round Table Pizza in Santa Rosa (2065 Occidental Road, Santa Rosa).
The Sonoma County Democratic Party are also hosting a Debate Watch Party – with pizza – at their headquarters (120 D St., Santa Rosa). Doors open at 5:30 p.m. RSVP to: scdpoffice2016.1@gmail.com
Biteclub’s been wandering the grocery store aisles for a couple weeks now, looking for this year’s oddest Halloween candy. The winner so far: Brach’s Brunch Favorites candy corn.
Brach’s Brunch Flavor candy corn for Halloween 2016
It’s a match made in candy heaven, because everyone loves brunch, and no one really likes the waxy little bullets of flavorless “corn”, right? Well, kinda. We tested three kinds of Brach’s new candy corn flavors, and let’s just say the brunch flavors of strawberry waffles, chocolate chip pancakes and french toast and maple syrup are the least offensive. They do taste like breakfast, but in a weird Willy Wonka everlasting gobstopper way.
Brach’s Peanut Butter Cup Flavor candy corn for Halloween 2016
The Peanut Butter Cup flavor, however, was so revolting, we had to warn people away from the bag. Most of them didn’t heed the warning, but unanimously regretted the decision. It’s kind of like eating sweet dirt, with an aftertaste that will stay with you for hours.
Brach’s Sea Salt and Chocolate Flavor candy corn for Halloween 2016
Sea Salt Chocolate were less offensive, but still pretty nasty. Sort of like eating a really, really, really old, dried out piece of chocolate. You’ve been warned. (By the way, the brunch flavor is only available at Target.)
Cadbury Screme Egg for Halloween 2016
Cadbury has a Halloween creme egg filled with green goo they’re calling the “Screme Egg”. Same flavor as the Easter one, more disgusting. Fellow Easter candy-maker Peeps has introduced marshmallow monsters and ghosts for the holidays as well.
Booterscotch M and M’s
M&M’s have introduced Boo-tterscotch flavored candies, and Oreo continues to come out with weird flavors, including “Halloween” (which is simply orange-colored creme) to Blueberry Pie and Swedish Fish.
Let me know if you find some more great fall candy flavors in the comments below.
Lots of changeups this week in the Wine Country restaurant world.
Nick’s Cove Restaurant in Marshall California
Nick’s Cove & Oyster Bar: There’s a new reason to head out to Marshall for oysters. Chef Joshua Seibert of San Francisco’s wildly popular Mission Beach Cafe has landed in the kitchen, bringing with him several new dishes and a new enthusiasm to the Tomales Bay restaurant. Many of the favorites will remain on the menu, including Dungeness Mac & Cheese and Deviled Duck Eggs, but they’ll get some minor tweaks and join several new items on the menu. Seibert has been working with the property’s new Garden Manager, Brendan Thomas to grow fresh produce for the restaurant year-round. 23240 Highway One, Marshall, 415-663-1033, nickscove.com.
Chef Chris Biard is the new executive chef at The Restaurant at Russian River Vineyards
The Restaurant at Russian River Vineyards has appointed Chef Chris Biard as their new executive chef. Following a stint at Napa’s La Taberna and as a chef on several private yachts, he has landed in Forestville. 5700 Hwy. 116 North, Forestville, 707-887-3344, russianrivervineyards.com.
At Persimmon in Healdsburg, Chef Rodrigo Mendoza has taken over the kitchen from executive opening chef Danny Mai. We’ll be heading back up in the next couple weeks to see what’s new on the menu.
Kenzo Tsujimoto of Kenzo Winery in Napa will be opening a new Japanese restaurant.
Kenzo Opening
There’s plenty of buzz happening around the opening of Japanese restaurant, Kenzo, slated for a Napa debut in November. The restaurant has been in the works for nearly two years by Kenzo and Natsuko Tsujimoto of Kenzo Estate winery. The ultra-high end restaurant will fly in fresh fish from Japan for its pre-fixe “kaiseki” and sushi menu. Chef Hiroyuki Kanda, whose Kanda restaurant has earned three Michelin stars for the last nine years, has created the menu, and will be based out of Napa for the opening. Key staff will be trained in Japan with Chef Kanda, making this a truly intimate Japanese dining experience — especially size-wise. The 400 square foot dining room will have just 27 seats. Opening Nov. 16. at 1339 Pearl St., Napa.
Chef Hiroyuki Kanda will be the consulting opening chef for Kenzo restaurant in Napa
Taverna Sofia Closed
One of the few authentic Greek spots in Sonoma County has closed. Chef Sofia Petridis-Lim closed her Taverna Sofia just off the Healdsburg square. She made a great go of it for four years, and we hope we’ll see her around again, possibly in a more casual spot near Santa Rosa, because goodness knows we loved her Moussaka.
Oysters 101: Oysters with a shucking knife at Santa Rosa Seafood. Heather Irwin/PD
The Oyster Eater’s Guide
(This article was originally published in 2016 when I met with Santa Rosa Seafood owner Mike Svedise. Sadly, Svedise died unexpectedly in 2017.)
On Thursday and Friday mornings, dozens of mesh bags filled with oysters are piled onto fresh ice at Santa Rosa Seafood shop. They travel from waters as far away as Prince Edward Island and the Virginia coast, to Pacific waters between Tomales Bay and British Columbia, and come in all shapes, sizes, colors and textures.
Call it a United Nations of bivalves.
Devoted oyster seekers come for Kumamotos, Miyagis, Malpeques, Kusshi and even Fat Bastards.
Sixteen different kinds of oysters are in today’s order: from Hammersly Inlet, Tomales Bay, Wildcat Cove or Anchor Bay Washington; the Yeocomico River in Virginia or Long Island. Each has a distinctive shell shape, ruffled, flat, ruggedly bumpy or nearly smooth.
As staff shuck them, he reveals a time capsule of a specific place and time where that oyster grew, what they’ve eaten, the temperature of the water, the time of year and of course their place of origin. All give an oyster the unique flavor some compare to a wine’s terroir, or “merroir.”
As we head into winter, the ideal time for shellfish, it’s worth knowing what you’re eating and what to look for.
Oysters at Santa Rosa Seafood in 2016 (Heather Irwin)
What an oyster is
Oyster are bi-valves, meaning they are filter feeders with a hinged shell. Also part of the oyster family tree are mussels, clams and scallops. As anyone who’s been to an oyster bar knows, part of the fun of eating these slippery shellfish is getting up close and personal with them.
It’s less clear what’s in a name. Fanny Bay, Hog Island Sweetwater, Totten Inlet, even French Kiss and Naked Cowboy are just a few of the monikers you’ll find, most of them referring to the place they were grown. We actually eat only five main species in North America: Pacific, Kumamoto, Olympia, Eastern and European Flats.
Blue Point Oyster at Santa Rosa Seafood (Heather Irwin)
Pacific oysters are the most common species, estimated to be 75 percent of the worldwide market. They have ruffled shells, like our local Hog Island Sweetwaters. Both Pacific and Kumamotos originated in Japan but are frequently grown in California and Washington. Kumamotos tend to have the lightest, sweetest flavor and are great for first-timers.
Olympia oysters tend to be small, but are gaining popularity with aficionados, even though they can be hard to find. Eastern oysters have flatter, less jagged shells and often a stronger briny flavor. European Flats are native to the cool waters of Western Europe and less popular in the U.S., though you can find the rare French Hog at Hog Island Oysters.
Miyagi oyster at Santa Rosa Seafood (Heather Irwin)
Why we love oysters
“A good oyster smells like the sea breeze skipping over the shore,” writes Rowan Jacobsen in “The Essential Oyster: A Salty Appreciation of the Taste and Temptation” (Bloomsbury, $35). “A bad oyster smells like a murder victim. I prefer the former. But I like how even the latter helps exemplify the essence of the interface: An oyster conveys its life experience directly to your senses.”
Though it seems a bit counter-intuitive to yearn for a slimy little creature that spends its life filtering mud, algae and other floating things, archaeologists have found ancient oyster shell piles (called middens) that date back millennia. Clearly our ancestors knew there was something to be said for them, whether it was the salt, the minerals in their flesh or simply their alleged aphrodisiac properties.
Oyster at Santa Rosa Seafood (Heather Irwin)
Then again, there’s something primal about tucking into a plate of these sea creatures. They are the essence of salt water and time.
Many are available year-round, though experts that include Jacobsen say it’s best to use the “R” rule, eating them in months with an “R” in their name (September through April, in other words).
Most oysters we eat are farmed, not wild. And that’s not a bad thing.
Fat Bastard oyster at Santa Rosa Seafood (Heather Irwin)
In Northern California, they are seeded and grown, each oyster filtering up to 50 gallons of water each day, according to the Chesapeake Foundation, and are generally thought to improve their surrounding environments. In fact, a Stanford study found that oysters and other bivalves could significantly reduce toxins in water, though you might not want those on the half shell.
Oysters at Santa Rosa Seafood (Heather Irwin)
The biggest concentration of oyster farms is near Vancouver Island, British Columbia, where popular Pacific oysters like Fanny Bay, Kusshi, Emerald Cove, Denman Island and Chef’s Creek are grown. Washington state is also a large producer best known for Kumamotos and smaller Olympia oysters. In Northern California, Hog Island oysters are plentiful in Tomales Bay. Keep in mind that most oysters we eat don’t grow pearls, though it’s always worth a look.
Oysters: What to look for
“The first thing you want to see is liquid,” said Aluxa Lalicker, co-owner of The Shuckery restaurant in Petaluma. As half of “The Oyster Girls” traveling oyster bar she runs with her sister, Jazmine, she’s seen a lot of oysters, both good and bad.
“Oysters are bringing the seawater to you,” she said, in the form of oyster liquor, the watery, salty liquid that surrounds an oyster. If an oyster is dry, you probably don’t want to eat it, and for heaven’s sake, don’t pour out the liquid. It’s part of the tasting process and tres gauche to dump it.
Depending on the kind of oyster, it should look plump and healthy. Color is also important, according to Lalicker. “Some have a more orange or coppery color, offering a lot of minerality. Some have really green gills with notes of vegetables, prized in Europe,” she said. “After you open a lot of oysters, you kind of know what it’s going to taste like.”
Oysters should always be stored cold and served cold if they’re raw. If an oyster is already opened before shucking, it’s dead, and you really don’t want to eat it.
Starter oysters
Lalicker’s restaurant usually has about four kinds of oysters on the menu, but Tomales Bay Miyagis are her favorite. The local oysters have a salty, sweet and slightly metallic flavor that’s approachable to newcomers, but also a favorite of more experienced oysterologists.
“I’ve tasted oysters from throughout the world, and they’re addictive,” Lalicker said. Like wine, however, it takes a little while to learn what you like.
“We ask if you like ice cream or potato chips,” she said. Folks who like chips tend to like briny, more intense flavors. Ice cream people tend to like sweeter, softer oysters grown near freshwater that have a less salty flavor.
Best bet, however, is just to ask questions, go to a reputable purveyor or restaurant, and try a few oysters to see what you like. “It’s about the smell, the taste and the texture all coming together,” said Lalicker.
How To Shuck An Oyster
Great Spots to Get ‘Em
You can practically throw a rock in any direction and hit an oyster bar in Sonoma County. We’ve got a passion for them, just about any way you can serve them up. Here are a few spots to try them:
El Dorado Kitchen: El Dorado Hotel & Kitchen, 405 First Street West, Sonoma, 707-996-3030, eldoradosonoma.com
Stark’s Steak and Seafood: 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-5100, starkrestaurants.com
Sonoma Grill: 165 W. Napa St., Sonoma, 938-7542
Cafe Lucia: 235 Healdsburg Ave., Suite 105, Healdsburg, 707-431-1113.
Rocker Oysterfeller’s: 14415 Highway 1, Valley Ford, 707-876-1983, rockeroysterfellers.com
Nellie’s Oysters: Saturdays at the Santa Rosa Community Farmers’ Market, Santa Rosa Veteran’s Building.
Hog Island Oyster Co.: This oyster pilgrimage spot has recently changed up their policies on the picnic area: Seating is reservation-only and are limited to 90 minutes, though its really only enforced Friday through Monday. Make sure to check the website before you go so you won’t end up disappointed. 20215 Highway 1, Marshall, 415-663-0218, hogislandoysters.com
It’s the first day of fall, and I’m already noticing some of my summer plants going dormant. My cucumbers, eggplants, and okra are on their final stretch – and although my tomatoes are still looking healthy, I know they won’t last much longer. It’s time to plant vegetables that will thrive as the temperatures begin to drop.
Here are six edibles that will reinvigorate your garden, as well as your dinner plate:
Cabbage
Cabbage seedlings. (Image via harvesttotable.com)
I’ve always had a tough time growing cabbage, but it’s not stopping me from trying again this year. Cabbage needs fertile soil and lots of moisture to thrive. This year, I’ll plant the seedlings by a drip irrigation system I’ve had installed – and I’ll keep my fingers crossed for better cabbage-growing luck.
Cabbage ready to harvest. (Image via gardeningknowhow.com)
You’ll know your cabbage is ready to harvest when it looks like a green sculpture that you can’t wait to take a crunchy bite of. It generally takes about 70 days to mature.
Roasted cabbage with bacon. (Image via azestybite.com)
My favorite way to enjoy cabbage has always been with corned beef. However, this roasted cabbage with bacon recipe has made me consider trying something new this year.
Broccoli, the oh-so-often-underrated vegetable, is one of the most versatile ingredients you can grow in your garden. While I like to experiment with different broccoli preparations, my boys are more “basic” in their broccoli tastes: some melted cheese on top and they’ll happily take a bite – or two.
Broccoli ready to be harvested. (Image via bonnieplants.com)
Not only is broccoli tasty – it’s healthy too! It is an excellent source of dietary fiber, vitamin B6, and vitamin E.
Roasted broccoli with cherry tomatoes. (Image via foodandwine.com)
Brussels sprouts seedlings. (Image via podgardening.com)
Brussels sprouts are one of the most reliable edibles to plant in the fall – they do well even in temperatures that drop as low as 20°.
Brussels sprouts ready to harvest. (Image via Wikipedia)
Brussel sprouts take around 90 days to mature, but they are worth the wait if you plant them in early fall as cool weather seems to bring out the taste better.
Brussels sprouts sliders.
I made these Brussel sprout sliders for Thanksgiving two years ago, when my brother-in-law brought his vegetarian girlfriend for dinner. The sliders were served as an appetizer, and were thoroughly enjoyed by all – carnivores included.
While technically a member of the cabbage family, kohlrabi tastes and looks very much like a turnip. I was introduced to this funky vegetable a couple of years ago by a co-worker, and I’ve been enjoying it ever since.
Kohlrabi ready for harvest. (Image via plantgeeksgarden.com)
Much like a turnip, kohlrabi will mature in a little less than 60 days – you’ll see the bulb stick out above the soil when it’s good to go.
Kohlrabi scallops. (Image via rachelcarr.com)
This Kohlrabi Scallops dish uses thick slices of kohlrabi as a vegetarian substitute for scallops. With delicious additions of shallots, garlic, and cashew milk, you won’t miss the seafood.
Cauliflower seedlings. (Image via inchbyinchrowbyrow.com)
Much to my 7 year-old son’s dismay, I adore cauliflower. They are trickier to grow than many fall vegetables, but well worth the effort. Cauliflower needs to be planted 6 to 8 weeks before the first frost. Pay attention to temperature fluctuations – too much fluctuation can make your cauliflower taste bitter.
Cauliflower ready to harvest. (Image via laurarittenhouse.com)
There’s little guessing involved when it comes to deciding when your cauliflower is ready for harvest – it’s practically begging to be picked up and eaten.
Broccoli cauliflower casserole. (Image via mccormick.com)
Casseroles make a weekly appearance at my house, and this broccoli cauliflower casserole has enjoyed many reruns. This is one of the few vegetable dishes my young boys will gladly eat – while most other veggies are forcefully pushed away.
Radish seedlings. (Image via better-together-farm.com)
When planting radishes, there are a variety of seedlings to choose from but the differences are slight. Some will mature more slowly but be larger in diameter, while some can mature in as few as 25 days.
Radish ready to harvest. (Image via campusagriculture.ca)
When radishes are ready to grace your dinner table, they’ll start poking their little heads out of the ground. (Image via campusagriculture.ca)
Honey roasted radish. (Image via thebittenword.com)
Roast your radishes in honey for a sweet and savory contrast to the peppery – sometimes tangy – taste of the radishes. Honey roasted radishes will pair well with pork chops or salmon fillets.
Just in time for fall – Sonoma County style comfort food and full bodied wheat beer. Perfect Pairing: Modern Times Unfortunate Islands
Fall is officially here, and we’re getting ready to settle into our comfort food phase with hearty stews and soups on chilly nights. If you’d like to savor some of the summer feeling in early fall, try this recipe with roasted root vegetables seasoned with fresh spices from the local Savory Spice Shop. Pair it with a fruit-forward, hoppy wheat beer – like Modern Times Fortunate Islands, available at Beer Craft in Rohnert Park.
1 head cauliflower, quartered, sliced in thin steaks
2 tsp. Garam Masala
1 and 1/2 tsp. salt
½ tsp. fresh ground pepper
1 head frisee salad, chopped
3 heads hearts of romaine, chopped
1 c. green olives, sliced in quarters (long)
½ cashews, chopped
DIRECTIONS
Roasted Cauliflower: Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees. Place cauliflower steaks on a sheet tray. Use two trays if needed to avoid layering. Drizzle 1 tsp. olive oil over cauliflower, dust with garam masala. Roast in oven for 30 minutes, flipping steaks after 15 minutes. Set aside when done.
Dressing: In a small mixing bowl, squeeze the juice from one lime and add mustard, remaining olive oil, ½ tsp salt and pepper. Blend well.
Salad: In a large mixing bowl, add in romaine and frisee salad, olives, half of the cauliflower, and dressing. Mix and transfer to serving bowl. Add remaining cauliflower and sprinkle cashews on top. Ready to serve.
Happy Cooking!
Savory Spice Shop
Santa Rosa: 317 D Street, Santa Rosa, CA 95404.
Sonoma: Sonoma Market Place, 201 West Napa Street, Unit 5 , Sonoma, CA 95476.
Beer Craft, Commerce Business Center, 5704 Commerce Blvd, Rohnert Park, CA 94928, (707) 206 – 9440 @BeerCraft
“I feel like I’m receiving nonverbal messages and cues all day long from ambient aromas inside and outside of the winery,” she said.
The associate winemaker, gifted with sensory acuity, helped craft our wine-of-the-week winner — the La Follette, 2013 North Coast Pinot Noir at $24.
The La Follette pinot noir has aromas of bright strawberry that give way to concentrated flavors of dried cherry, cracked black pepper and mushroom. This pinot has depth, surprising at this price point. You also can find it at discount retail shops for $20.
Sequeira, 41, has been working with vintner and winemaker Greg La Follette since the brand’s inception in 2009, also the year La Follette sold his winery, then named Tandem, to Wine Creek LLC.
La Follette said he continued working with his namesake winery until June, when he left as a result of corporate restructuring with its current owner.
La Follette produced the winning North Coast pinot before leaving the company and is now the winemaker of Ancient Oak Cellars, which has a tasting room in downtown Santa Rosa.
“I’m proud of all the wines I produced at La Follette,” he said, “and very thankful for the excellent work of Simone Sequeira, my gifted assistant winemaker for many years, who remains with La Follette.”
Sequeira said she is “honored to have spent so many years learning from a master such as Greg La Follette. Now with Greg’s departure from La Follette, I am looking forward to continuing to craft beautiful pinot noir and chardonnay under our new winemaking consultant, Ehren Jordan.”
Sequeira’s pivotal moment with wine came when she had the opportunity to taste an old Burgundy.
“Until that time, I had no experience with cellared wines,” she said. “What I sipped that night was so ephemeral, so pleasing and fleeting that it changed the way I considered wine. And it also served as an introduction to the birthplace of pinot noir.”
In 2002, Sequeira worked her first harvest at Domaine de la Vougeraie, surrounded by grapes from some of the finest vineyards of Burgundy.
Sequeira said what the uninitiated may not know about pinot noir is how easy it is to bungle.
“Pick it too early and you may have missed the real flavor development,” she said. “Pick too late and the acidity drops and the potential alcohol rises.”
Of all the daunting decisions winemakers make, the harvest date is the most crucial, she said.
“It’s like the blue flash that happens when the sun dips below the horizon on a clear sunset. You look away for a moment and you’ll miss it.”
Sequeira said she’s well-suited to winemaking because she thrives on multi-tasting.
“Winemaking is a carousel of vineyard visits, cellar decisions, tasting, traveling, spreadsheets and sharing the wines with others,” she said.
During harvest, we often hear the saying, “It takes a lot of good beer to make great wine.” Luckily local brews abound, and they are a steal with 22-ounce bottles typically in the $5 range. Here are some India Pale Ales to drink while this fertile region makes wine.
Bear Republic Racer 5 IPA, 22 oz., 7.5% alcohol. Healdsburg. A full-bodied beer that’s hoppy, both in aroma and flavors. Additional notes of mango and caramel. Balanced.
North Coast Stellar IPA, 22 oz., 6%. Fort Bragg. A medium-bodied beer that’s very tasty. Flavors of toast, citrus and toffee. Creamy texture. Hoppy finish.
Fogbelt Del Norte IPA, 22 oz., 7%. Santa Rosa. This is a tasty beer with aromas and flavors of pineapple, citrus and caramel. A touch sweet. Malty finish.
Lagunitas IPA, 22 oz, 6.2%. Petaluma. A brew with mild hoppiness. It has both citrus and tropical notes, with a hint of caramel. Foamy head. Dry finish.
Squab miso ramen at Miminashi, a Japanese izakaya, in Napa, California on Tuesday, August 30, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Squab miso ramen at Miminashi, a Japanese izakaya, in Napa. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
From the very front door, we can tell that Miminashi is something special. Designer Michael McDermott dreamed up a stunning hand-carved creation, inspired by Mt. Fuji, for a three-sided foyer lined in hundreds of small peaks that rise from the naturally multi-colored wood, each mountaintop capped with a tiny volcanic indention.
To me, the pattern looks more like female anatomy, in an art form of epizeuxis. But either way, it’s gorgeous and sets the stage for what is now downtown Napa’s most exciting restaurant. The Japanese décor is sophisticated, the Japanese cuisine is authentic and the experience pushes the envelope for anything we’ve ever had in this area.
Chicken tail yakitori at Miminashi restaurant in Napa. (Photo by Heather Irwin)
Yakitori? Yes. You can see the skewers being fired on the expo robata grill. But here it comes in the many unusual cuts the Japanese culture appreciates, with grilled chicken breast ($9) and thigh ($7.50), but also chicken belly ($7), knee cartilage ($9), heart ($8.50), fatty-luscious fried skin ($8) and tail (ok, butt), which is a delicacy, even if it’s too fatty and squid textured for my taste ($6).
Miatake mushroom yakitori at Miminashi restaurant in Napa. (Photo by Heather Irwin)
The concept is a radical switch for chef-owner Curtis Di Fede, who leapt into the spotlight in 2010 with his Oenotri southern Italian restaurant in Napa. Then, two years ago, he and co-owner Tyler Rodde ended their partnership, with Rodde keeping Oenotri.
Soon after, Di Fede took an Asian vacation and decided Napa needed an izakaya, in an upscale, Cal-inspired version of the boisterous pub style so beloved in Japan. After lots of red tape, he opened Miminashi earlier this year in the historic Young Building on Coombs and Second streets, just around the corner from Oenotri.
Customers enjoy dinner and drinks at Miminashi, a Japanese izakaya, in Napa. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
Now, instead of Oenotri-style braised pigeon pasta, Di Fede gives us pigeon miso ramen ($17), the savory bird broth stocked with slippery noodles, pork chashu, shimeji mushroom, grilled Little Gems, leeks, black garlic and sesame.
And he sends out Paine Farms squab ($30), presented in a dramatic fashion with the feet still attached to the skin-on plump legs, splayed atop Brentwood corn, sweet Jimmy Nardello peppers and red spring onions. (Tip: don’t eat the feet.)
Executive chef/owner Curtis Di Fede stands inside the walk-up ice cream window beside the unique wood front door at Miminashi. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
Most everything tastes as impressive as it looks, from hamachi sashimi decorated with avocado slabs and diced chives ($8), to a magurodon bowl layered with ruby red ahi, fiery daikon kimchee, radish, pickled kombu, shiitake tsukemono (pickle), Tokyo negi (onion), rice, sesame and furikake seaweed-fish seasoning ($18).
Throughout, the chef balances fat and lots of vegetables to soak up what is often a lot of salt, plus often serious jolts of heat, such as the gypsy peppers that zip up sweet fluke sashimi draped in shiso ($11).
I don’t need freshly grated wasabi ($4.50) for any of my dishes, since there’s enough spice already in the recipes.
A selection of robatayaki / yakitori, from front to rear: kawa (chicken skin), yagen nonkotsu (chicken cartilage), Tsukune (chicken meatball) with egg yolk, and momoshiniku (boneless chicken thigh) with negi (Welsh onion), at Miminashi in Napa. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
From bacon-cabbage okonomiyaki (savory pancakes, $15) to Georgia white shrimp gyoza in vinegar-sharp shiso ginger broth ($13), selections change nearly daily. It’s like Christmas each time I open the folded paper menu.
On one visit, the ramen is tonkatsu style, creamy and meaty. It is topped in crispy pork belly, shiitakes, yuzukosho (chile-yuzu peel paste), toasted nori and a crown of onsen egg, poached inside its shell so the white is silky with a custard yolk ($17).
It’s my favorite for its umami and succulence. On another visit, the ramen is chicken paitan style, the velvety broth stocked with roasted kohlrabi, grilled Little Gems and black garlic shoyu butter ($16). It’s my favorite for its rich earthiness.
Yellowfin tuna crudo with soba dashi and sungold tomatoes at Miminashi, a Japanese izakaya, in Napa. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
Too many favorites
There are worse problems to have than too many favorites at a restaurant; ordering gets tough since it’s all good. Still, I’ve zeroed in on recent standouts like wok-fried shimeji mushrooms tossed with crisp gypsy peppers and sugar snap peas in a bright sesame cream vinaigrette ($13), and kama yakitori, a meaty slab of salmon collar ($20) that goes marvelously with a crisp, shaved cabbage salad dressed in shiso, puffed rice curls, black sesame seeds and sharp, charred ginger vinaigrette ($10).
But I also love the asparagus, roasted over Japanese Binchotan charcoal that imbues char without smokiness. The tender spears arrive laced in negi, black garlic, a fried egg and whispery thin bonita flakes ($13), all set — like all the food — on pretty, imported pottery.
Sake at Miminashi restaurant in Napa. (Photo by Heather Irwin)
Like a true izakaya, drinking is a major component here, as is noise. Loud voices bounce across the 85 seats and communal wood bar, up into the dramatic wood-lined, 20-foot-tall modern pagoda ceiling and down into tall wood booths that look like triangular origami.
Servers deliver plates in quick succession, but once I learned to ask for slower pacing, I wasn’t racing through my ramen to get to the crisp croquette ($5) stuffed with creamy mashed potato, chicken and negi, for dunking in sweet, rice-vinegar mayonnaise.
Lorraine Tiang, left, snaps a selfie with Wan Chan after their dinner at Miminashi, a Japanese izakaya, in Napa. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
Yet here, there’s a sommelier on staff to help navigate the 100 international wine choices, and nearly two dozen sake choices that include chilled Gunma Izumi sake ($15, Asian carafe), and a prized Junmai Daiginjo from the Niigata prefecture of western Japan ($100).
There’s Asahi Super Dry draft ($6), but also a mixologist fashioning a floral Axolotl of Olmeca Altos blanco tequila, St. Germain elderflower, makrut lime cordial, celery juice and bitters ($11).
Soft serve ice cream in a waffle bowl with sesame honeycomb topping at Miminashi, a Japanese izakaya, in Napa. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
Is there a word for a soft-serve mixologist? There should be, since Miminashi has one who crafts the ice cream ($7) in a variety of nightly changing flavors, like bold matcha green tea, lemon verbena, sweet corn, malted chocolate and black sesame that boasts a peanut butter-like flavor.
It’s even better served in a super-crispy waffle bowl ($1), and sprinkled with add-ons like candied ginger, sesame honeycomb candy and whiskey butterscotch sauce (50 cents each). Hint: You can now snag the soft serve at a walk-up window next to the front door.
Sake cups at Miminashi restaurant in Napa. (Photo by Heather Irwin)
About that name, by the way. It’s a salute to Mimi-nashi Hoichi, a mythological character who, in a long, complicated story, ends up with his ears ripped off by a samurai. According to Di Fede, mimi-nashi also honors a Japanese tradition of a chef covering his ears with a towel when making ramen.
Over several visits, I have yet to see Di Fede sporting a turban, but he has certainly taken all the other meticulous steps in this magnificent creation.
This autumn, give your wardrobe an update with versatile and wearable pieces that you can pair with pretty much everything. Here are 10 trendy basics – available or made locally – that will take your fall outfits to a whole new level of fabulousness:
A Bomber Jacket
Bomber jackets are making a comeback for both men and women. Soft chambray gives this bomber jacket an extra dose of chic. Wear this bomber with a pair of contrasting darker denim jeans for a stylish denim-on-denim look. Or tie on a colorful silk neck scarf to add personalty and vibrance to your look.
Regis Chambray Bomber Jacket by Velvet Heart $98
Available at Macy’s, Santa Rosa Plaza, 800 Santa Rosa Plaza, Santa Rosa
The Poncho
Ponchos have been on-trend for the last several seasons, and they continue their popularity this year. Wearing a poncho is an easy way to be fashion-forward while staying warm. Add a long necklace and a pair of jeans or black pants for a stylish fall ensemble. You can also wear a poncho over a dress or with a skirt and heels for a dressier look.
Melissa Fringe Poncho $109
Available at Chico’s, Montgomery Village Shopping Center, 713 Village Ct., Santa Rosa
A Cashmere Wrap
Invest in a wardrobe item that you will keep for many decades and reach for time and time again. Himalayan Chyangra cashmere wool shawls from Pashmn & Co., based in Petaluma, are handcrafted, not machine-woven. These incredibly soft shawls come in an array of beautiful colors, weaves and wool blends – you can even pick out the type of fringe you’d like, if any. With our ever-changing temperatures and micro-climates here in Sonoma County, you won’t want to leave the house without your wrap any time of year. They are perfect for travel too.
Your fall wardrobe will benefit from a great fitting pair of classic black pants. These ponte ankle pants from White House Black Market have a modern cut and are made with soft, comfortable and forgiving ponte material. Wear them to the office with a button down tailored blouse, skinny belt and pumps or out on the town with a black beaded silky tunic and strappy, get-noticed heels.
Ponte Slim Ankle Pants $79
Available at White House Black Market, Montgomery Village Shopping Center, 706 Village Ct., Santa Rosa
Cropped Jeans
Not ready to give up your summery cropped pants just yet? You don’t need to with these Cropped Flare Jeans from Old Navy that have a touch of fringe at the hem. Wear these mid-rise jeans with a pair of stylish booties, a slouchy t-shirt and a long knit cardigan for a boho chic look for fall. If you’re in between sizes, size down.
This tunic-style Little Black Dress from Bay Area designer Lesley Evers will be your go-to dress for the office, a party, or out wine tasting with friends. The dress’s length, just above the knee, and 3/4 sleeves make it flattering on nearly every figure. Dress it up with black heeled Mary Jane pumps, a statement necklace and black clutch or wear it casually with a denim jacket, wool scarf, tote bag and tall low-heeled boots. This dress is machine washable and made in the USA.
Carey Black Dress $168
Available at Lesley Evers, 211 Town Center, Corte Madera
A Timeless Leather Handbag
Few colors say “autumn in Wine Country” more than a deep, rich burgundy shade. This versatile hue works well with most fall shades. The Carlyle bag from Bella Vita Sonoma is a 100% leather shoulder bag with a canvas lining and a timeless look. Carry all your essentials in its handy compartments. There is even an interior pocket for your tablet which snaps closed. The Carlyle also comes in an always classic black.
Carlyle Bag $225
Available at Bella Vita Sonoma, 457 1st St. W., Sonoma
Leopard Print
While the leopard and cheetah print trend has never gone entirely out of style, it may have taken a backseat in recent years. This season it’s taking center stage once again. Look for leopard print dresses, handbags, coats, belts and shoes like these darling flats by Matt Benson from Tamarind at The Barlow. Wear these flats with cropped and ankle pants, dresses and skirts and try wearing them with a bright color. One of my favorite colors to wear with leopard prints is fire engine red!
These handcrafted distressed leather short boots by BED STU will take you into both fall and winter. Wear them with dresses, skirts, and jeans for a ruggedly stylish cool weather look. BED STU uses traditional cobbling techniques to create their much sought-after designs. Their boots are a favorite among stars like Taylor Swift and Brody Jenner. Shop for an array of BED STU boots – both short and tall – at Robindira Unsworth Boutique in Petaluma.
BED| STU Short Boots $245
Available at Robindira Unsworth Boutique, 115 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma
A Long Beaded Pendant Necklace
Elongate your silhouette and add texture, interest and color to your outfit with a beautiful handmade beaded necklace from Meghan Bo Designs of Sonoma. These beauties are 72″ long and made with an assortment of beads, gold accents and a pendant. Available in Amazonite with Arrowhead, Jasper with Tusk and Turquoise and Black with Long Horn.
