Petaluma made the Thrillist list of cool San Francisco suburbs. (Photo by Scott Manchester)
Thrillist, the online site for all list-worthy things, has released a carefully curated selection of “cool San Francisco suburbs you should actually visit” — and Petaluma and Healdsburg made the cut (along with Mill Valley, Walnut Creek, Pleasanton, Downtown San Jose, Redwood City, Half Moon Bay, Niles, Bolinas and Yountville).
While we were thrilled to find two Sonoma County burgs included on the list — and we agree that both Petaluma and Healdsburg are indeed pretty “cool” places — Thrillist’s definition of “suburb” made us reach for our dusty dictionary (we’re pretty sure the people in Mill Valley and Yountville did the same).
Healdsburg also made the Thrillist list. (Photo Flickr/Clay Gilliland)
As it turns out, definitions of “suburb” tend toward the vague (from “a residential district situated on the outskirts of a city or town” to “a smaller community adjacent to or within commuting distance of a city”) and definitely leave the door open for sweeping interpretations. What all definitions have in common, however, is the concept that the word “suburb” derives meaning from its implied “subordinate” relationship to the “urbs” (city).
Now, while we don’t have anything against San Francisco, we’d like to think that Sonoma County cities and towns exist in their own right, and not merely as extensions to “the city.”
In the largest sense of the word, we in Sonoma County are not “suburban”, “subordinate” or “sub” anything – and all of our cities and towns have their very own take on “cool” (fashionable, stylish, chic, up-to-the-minute, sophisticated, trendy, funky, with it, hip, big, happening, groovy, phat, kicky, fly, laid-back…the list goes on…).
What do you think?Read Thrillist’s descriptions of Petaluma and Healdsburg here.
There are two distinct personalities to the town of Sonoma. One is the tourist face, with a carefully cultivated shabby-chic, gentleman farmer vibe that matches its historic mission, wineries and Old West past. Charm abounds, and there are plenty of white tablecloth, high dollar restaurants to accommodate luxe tastes.
But simmering just below is the true Sonoma, a tight-knit community that includes the rest of us — the people who work in the tasting rooms and restaurants, at the Sonoma Speedway, behind desks and in firehouses. This diverse gathering of native Californians, immigrants, retirees, artisans and small business owners makes for a vibrant, (mostly) affordable food scene that most visitors breeze past.
We’re pulling back the cover on the Sonoma restaurants where townies really eat: From favorite happy hours and taco trucks to insiders-only recommendations for where to get a great cup of coffee or a family breakfast. We’re also including a few tips on getting some great bites at the higher-end spots, whether that’s a happy hour special, or a dish that won’t cost a mint.
So, forget the stars and hype. We’ve got the real guide to eating in Sonoma.
It must be authentic, because finding a photo is nearly impossible. La Bamba Taco Truck in Sonoma, courtesy of Yelp.
Tacos at Juanita Juanita: There’s no shortage of great taco trucks and taquerias around town but we can’t help but love the locals-only vibe at this offbeat cantina where you can grab a cold one and stuff you face al pastor and carne asada tacos. Going solo tonight? Feel free to try their Garlic Garlic Burrito with a pungent garlic-walnut paste and all the other fixings. 19114 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, (707)935-3981. Of course, if you need a late-night gordita or burrito, hit up La Bamba Taco Truck at the Larbre Automotive Lot in Boyes Hot Springs (but expect a wait).
Black walnut Manhattan at Starling Bar in Sonoma. Heather Irwin/PD
Black Walnut Manhattan at Starling: This new craft cocktail bar in the former Blue Moon is everything a neighborhood bar should be, but with really good cocktails. Their Black Walnut Manhattan is made with their own nocino (a walnut liqueur), along with bourbon, vermouth and a brandied cherry. We also like the Bacon Bourbon Sour with a mix of bacon-infused bourbon, Madeira, maple syrup, fresh citrus juice, cherry, lime and sriracha bacon. 19380 Hwy. 12, Sonoma, (707) 938-7442, starlingsonoma.com.
New Haven Apizza in Sonoma. Robbi Pengelly, Sonoma Index-TribuneClam pizza at Apizza Sonoma.
Clam Pizza at New Haven Apizza Shop: Mexican bakery by day, New Haven-style pizzeria by night. Fernando Garcia, whose family owns Garcia Mexican bakery learned about this East Coast style of pizza after working in a New Haven restaurant for 15 years. Locals say the crispy crust and traditional clam, garlic and white sauce pizza is as real as it gets…at least on the West Coast. Pies run from $14 (small) to $31 for a large. Don’t miss the homemade espresso tiramisu $6 made daily. Beginning at 3p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. 555 Fifth St. West, 931-4694, newhavenapizzashop.com.
Seafood pasta at Mama Tanino’s in Sonoma. Courtesy Yelp.
Seafood Pasta at Mamma Tanino’s Ristorante: Way off the square, Mamma Tanino’s is rustic, Italian cuisine straight from a Sicilian. The menu is simple, but authentic, with spaghetti all Carbonara, linguine, fettuccine with sausage, pappardelle Bolognese and classics like Chicken Marsala and Veal Scaloppini. Early birds flock to the $15 daily dinner specials from 5-5:30p.m. The location, near the Sonoma Market, isn’t swanky, and there can be a wait on busy nights, but this is solid Italian at an attainable price. Open 5-9p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, 500 W. Napa St., Suite 512, 933-8826, mammataninos.com.
You can’t go wrong with just about any flavor at Sweet Scoops in Sonoma. Heather Irwin
A Tiny (or big) Scoop at Sweet Scoops: Mid-afternoons during the week tend to be the best time to get a scoop from these mad scientists of ice cream. Though there’s Rocky Road, Chocolate, Strawberry and vanilla for the traditionalists, we come for flavors like jalapeno cucumber sorbet, Mare Island Brewery chocolate stout, horchata, pear crisp, salted caramel corn and seasonal strawberry basil. The flavors change daily and are made in small batches, so there’s always a new flavor to try. Tiny scoops are $3, but we love the flight of four for $6.75. 408 First St. East, 721-1187, sweetscoopsicecream.com.
Maya Restaurant. Jeff Kan Lee/PD
Nachos and Margaritas at Maya: Not just nachos, but “Really Good Nachos,” are part of this Yucatecan menu, along with specially priced tacos, sliders and margaritas from 4-6 p.m. Monday through Friday. If you want something a little more special, ask for the fresh-squeezed margarita or taste your way through Maya’s 100+ tequila list. 101 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 935-3500, mayarestaurant.com.
Tapas at Tasca Tasca in Sonoma. Heather Irwin/PD
Tapas At Tasca Tasca: The more casual little sister to Chef Manuel Azevedo’s La Salette, this small plates (true tapas) includes everything from fried piri piri potatoes with saffron aioli to goat stew, salt cod cakes and Portuguese mac and cheese in nibble-sized portions. The idea is to order between three and seven items at a time, presented on beautiful butcher boards, to share with the table. Or, you can just hog it all for yourself. With so many choices, feel free to go out on a culinary limb, and try ceviche, blood sausage, escargot in garlic butter or Portugal’s national soup, Caldo Verde. Priced at $15 for three plates, $24 for five and $32 for seven. 122 W. Napa St., Sonoma, (707) 996-8272, tascatasca.com.
Charcuterie Plate at the Girl and the Fig. Heather Irwin/PD
Charcuterie at Girl and the Fig’s Seat 99: We don’t usually suggest specific seats, but this spot at the end of the bar is such a perfect spot to perch. The housemade charcuterie is a passion for Executive Chef John Toulze, who started making prosciutto, coppa, bacon and other cured meats for the restaurant several years ago. The platter comes with several meats, pate and terrine, along with grilled toast and house pickles for $16. 110 West Spain St., Sonoma (707) 933-3000, thegirlandthefig.com.
Barbecue Brisket from Rossi’s 1906 in Sonoma, California. Photo Heather Irwin
Ribs at Rossi’s 1906: Barbecue is a thing here, with some of the best in the North Bay. You’ll know by the scent of smoked meat wafting from behind the restaurant. The beer garden has a great happy hour to warm up (4-6p.m. Wednesday through Saturday) with $5 burgers, pulled pork slides, twice baked potatoes and pimento cheese toast. But you’re really here for the smoker plates with chicken, ribs, tri tip and pulled pork. 401 Grove St., Sonoma, (707) 303-0044, rossis1906.com.
Caesar salad at Oso Restaurant in Sonoma. Heather Irwin/PDDeviled eggs with crab at Oso Restaurant in Sonoma. Heather Irwin/PD
Between Time at Oso: There’s that awkward time between 2:30 and 5p.m. for restaurants when it’s well past lunch but too early for dinner. Many just close up for those few hours, but Oso keeps a light menu rolling for “linner” eaters. Our fave: Mole pork tacos and deviled eggs. Chef David Bush’s critically-acclaimed restaurant can be bustling for dinner, so we like getting a leg up when the kitchen and the bar are quieter. 9 East Napa St., Sonoma, (707) 931-6926, ososonoma.com.
Fresh Tortillas at Tortilleria Jalisco: Locals takeaway still-warm bags of homemade flour and corn tortillas by the pound and swear by the posole. Run by a group of women, most mornings you can watch as they roll the dough and lineup stacks of balls for pressing and griddle-cooking. They’ll cost you just a few dollars for a stack of 10, in flour, wheat or spinach flavors. 897 W. Napa St., Sonoma, (707) 935-7396). We’d be remiss in not mentioning El Molino Central (11 Central Ave., Boyes Hot Springs, elmolinocentral.com), where you can buy corn tortillas made with freshly-ground masa, for a truly authentic experience.
Truffle Fries at EDK
Truffle Fries at El Dorado Kitchen: More than one local suggested the addictive truffle oil and Parmesan fries here, which you can get at lunch or dinner, best paired on the outdoor patio with a cocktail. Either way, they’re great alone, or with a signature EDK burger.405 First St. West, Sonoma, (707)996-3030, eldoradosonoma.com.
Truffled eggs at the Community Cafe. PD file photoWaffles at the Breakaway Cafe.
Breakfast at Breakaway Cafe: This cafe is one of the most under-rated spots in the Valley, and we’re happy to keep it under the radar. They’ve got plenty of the usual suspects on the menu (scrambles, Huevos Rancheros, hash) but we love extra delicious buttermilk pancakes and banana walnut waffles. 19101 Sonoma Hwy., Sonoma, (707) 996-5949, breakawaycafe.com. We also have to mention, however, the Community Cafe’s lemon flaxseed pancakes with warm raspberry honey butter syrup and truffled eggs and toast with eggs, fontina, mushrooms and asparagus, topped with truffle oil. (875 West Napa St., Sonoma, (707) 938-7779, ccsonoma.com) Decisions, decisions!
Murphy’s Irish Pub in Sonoma. PD File Photo
A Beer at Murphy’s Irish Pub: We love a pub you have to hunt for. Located at the end of one of the Square’s hidden alleyways, Murphy’s is a favorite Irish pub with plenty of Guinness, Harp and Smithwick’s on tap. They’ve also got some solid Irish pub food like bangers and mash, mushy peas, colcannon and meat pies. Just don’t ask for a Bud, because they don’t sell ‘em. Time it right and there’s live music several times a week. 464 First St. East, Sonoma, (707) 935-0660, facebook.com/SonomaPub.
Sunny days at the Sunflower Caffe. PD file photo
Coffee at, well, hmmm: No one can seem to agree on the best place for coffee in Sonoma because everyone has a favorite. If you’re grabbing a pastry and want to take it to go, it has to be Basque Boulangerie. If you’re wanting to sit outside and just have a slow moment, it’s Sunflower Caffe. If you’re looking for a local roastery for some freshly ground coffee, Barking Dog Roasters is tops.
Of course, we’ve probably missed many more favorites. Want to shout out the ones we’ve missed? Have your say below…
Fall is a fine time to return to the classics, to wines that connect summer sipping with the cooler temperatures and comfort foods ahead.
SAUVIGNON BLANC
If You Like… Rochioli Vineyards & Winery 2015 Estate Grown Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($35)
This sultry, classy Sauvignon from the family’s vineyards has exotic aromas of almond and lemongrass, complementing the intense lemon pith and grapefruit flavors. It’s refreshingly complex, with just the right amount of weight and texture.
You May Also Like… Rodney Strong Vineyards 2015 Charlotte’s Home Northern Sonoma Sauvignon Blanc ($17)
From the winery’s estate vineyards comes this finely made wine, with aromas and flavors of mango, peach and melon, balanced by hints of fresh-cut grass and honeysuckle. The majority of the grapes were fermented in stainless steel, with 10 percent spending time in oak barrels, adding some richness to the bright, clean flavors.
SYRAH
If You Like… MacLaren Wine Co. 2013 Moaveni Vineyard Bennett Valley Syrah ($45)
Bennett Valley once again shows it is a happy place for this varietal. The wine opens with comforting aromas of baked bread, earthy truffles and chocolate-dipped bacon. On the palate, the wine is ripe yet restrained, with keen focus and tension.
You May Also Like… Acorn 2013 Axiom Alegría Vineyards Russian River Valley Syrah ($36)
From a historic vineyard site in the northernwestern reaches of the appellation comes this rich, hedonistic expression of red berry and blackberry pie topped with cinnamon sugar. Firm structure frames the warm fruit and dusty leather character, making it great for a cool fall night.
CHARDONNAY
If You Like… Friedeman Wines 2014 UV Lancel Creek Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($44)
Famed farmer Ulises Valdez’s vineyard produced this bright, barrel-aged wine with honeyed apple, tangy citrus, green apple and a hint of mango shining through on the moderately rich, juicy palate. Beautiful in its subtlety.
You May Also Like… Marimar Estate 2014 Don Miguel Vineyard Acero Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($29)
This is the producer’s estate-grown, unoaked version of Chardonnay, with the grapes fermented entirely in stainless steel. The wine is kept in the tank until bottling, which retains the juicy, refreshing acidity and crisp notes of quince, mango and green olive.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
If You Like… Kunde 2012 Drummond Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($50)
Drummond is named for Capt. John Drummond, whose link to the Kunde estate dates to the 1800s. For this wine, vines planted two decades ago contribute buoyant acidity that contrasts with the firm tannins and palate of ripe plum, licorice and black currant, finishing with a rich dusting of chocolate.
You May Also Like… Louis M. Martini 2013 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($34)
A mix of cedar and leather provides a classical character to this full-bodied wine with supple texture and depth. Juicy black cherry, black currant and plum flavors add depth to the approachable structure.
“It Takes a Lot of Great Beer to Make Great Wine” produced by Russian River Brewery, Santa Rosa. Available for purchase seasonally, at the brewpub only. (Photo by Jess Vallery)
During harvest, vineyard and winery crews toil tirelessly. And, like any hard working man or woman, they enjoy a nice cold one at the end of the day. The saying goes: “it takes a lot of great beer to make great wine” — and in Sonoma County every cellar seems to have their favorite local brew.
We asked five Sonoma County winemakers what’s on tap when they’re tapped out from the winemaking work:
“Lately, my go-to harvest beer is Anchor Steam and Russian River Pils, but I’m a hop head and IPAs have been a part of Kokomo winemaking since the beginning.”
Kokomo Winery, named after Miller’s Indiana hometown, is set next to 120 acres of benchland vineyards at the Timber Crest Farms in Dry Creek Valley. Miller traded the midwestern soybeans and corn fields for rolling hills and vineyards, and now produces Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Muscat Merlot, Pinot Noir and a killer Rosé, served by the glass at Russian River Brew Pub. (Because wine and beer really go hand in hand!)
Erik Miller, Owner and Winemaker, Kokomo Winery. (Photo via YouTube)
“Lagunitas Pils hits the spot. I have it after driving the last tractor dump into the pumice pile!” Before this year’s harvest, Covington took his crew to the Petaluma brewery for a tour – and put the Lagunitas bumper sticker on the company forklift.
The Trione Family has been farming fruit for 45 years. They produce a variety of wines, such as a Sparkling Brut and Primitivo; their popular Sauvignon Blanc can be found at many Sonoma County restaurants. Scot Covington has been making wines for the Trione Family since 2005. He selects the top three percent of grapes from more than 650 acres of Trione vineyards in the Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley and Sonoma Coast AVAs.
Winemaker Scot Covington samples wine from a barrel at Trione Vineyards and Winery, in Geyserville. Covington has been making wine with the Trione family since 2005. (Photo by Christopher Chung)
“Some of my favorite local brews are from Fogbelt Brewery and Henhouse Brewing.”
J. Rickards Winery was established by local wine veterans Jim and Eliza Rickards in 2005. The winery is known for its Old Vine Zinfandel, a field blended wine from vines planted by the Brignole family in 1908. The winery was recently honored at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair, winning the sweepstakes award for best white wine for their Sauvignon Blanc. Blaine Brazil joined J. Rickards winery in 2011, after 7 years at B.R. Cohn. His goal at J. Rickards is to “produce quality small lot, single vineyard wines that express the terroir of the individual vineyards.”
Blaine Brazil, Winemaker, J. Rickards Winery. (Photo courtesy of J. Rickards Winery)
During harvest, Daryl searches out Coopers Sparkling Ale from his native Australia, “it makes me smile, remembering fun times during Australian harvests a long time ago.”
Prior to making wines under his own name, Daryl held numerous positions in the wine industry, including Vice President of Winemaking & Operations for Peak Wines International and Beam Wine Estates and both Senior White Winemaker and then Senior Red Winemaker for Penfolds Wines in Australia. In 2011, Daryl launched Colby Red Wine, inspired by his son Colby who was born with a hole in his heart and endured two open-heart surgeries to correct the condition. The wine raises money for heart-disease-related charities.
Daryl Groom, right, with his son Colby Groom. Groom’s Colby Red Wine has successfully raised over 850 million dollars supporting charities that promote heart health. (Photo by Christopher Chung)
“While there is certainly diversity when it comes to styles of beer [during harvest], one thing you can guarantee is that there is going to be a heavy dose of Bear Republic in the mix. We love their beer, we love the people at the Bear, and we love to support local businesses. The Bear Republic and Dry Creek General Store are probably the two favorite haunts after a long day in the cellar.”
Clay Mauritson’s family has farmed land in the Dry Creek Valley since 1868. He established Mauritson Winery in 1998 and opened a tasting room in 2004. Mauritson is a Zinfandel house, famous for their Rockpile Zinfandel, which is made from grapes grown in one of the newest appellations in California, the Rockpile AVA. Mauritson also makes a “Charlie Clay” Pinot Noir in collaboration with restaurateur Charlie Palmer.
Restauranteur Charlie Palmer, left, tastes pinot blends with Clay Mauritson at Mauritson Winery in the Dry Creek Valley. (Photo by John Burgess)
Craft beer has long been an integral part of Sonoma County winemaking: from earlier winemakers bonding over a cold Coors while playing a game of liar’s dice at Catelli’s the Rex, to newer generations sipping on a cold Row 2 or Racer 5 at the rustic Dry Creek Bar.
Vinnie Cilurzo of Russian River Brewery even made a beer to celebrate this relationship: The Winemakers Session Ale aka It Takes a Lot of Great Beer to Make Great Wine, which is available at the brewpub on draft, seasonally.
The Struts singer Luke Spiller on stage at City of Trees Festival in Sacramento. (Photo by Estefany Gonzalez)
Despite the devastating loss of David Bowie early this year, there’s still a glimmer of hope for glam rock. On an odyssey across the Unites States, English rock band The Struts is on a mission to bring back retro rock – and it’s all gloriously glitzy. This Friday, November 4, they will grace the stage at the Napa Valley Opera House. We caught up with The Struts singer Luke Spiller.
Over the past few years, The Struts have opened for the Rolling Stones, toured with Mötley Crüe and played countless concerts and festivals, including Lollapalooza, Austin City Limits and Napa’s own BottleRock festival – which featured not only a performance on the main stage, culinary stage and JaM Pad stages, but also an after show. For every performance, the British band puts on a show full of stage swagger comparable to that of golden age glam rockers Queen.
The Struts singer Luke Spiller at City of Trees Festival in Sacramento. (Photo by Estefany Gonzalez)
During a brief break from taking on the U.S. stage by stage, singer Luke Spiller – aka Luke Struts – walks around the pool of the band’s Los Angles rental. It’s only been a week since their last gig, but the group is already working on new music. Spiller fills us in on the band’s hectic schedule.
“We’re just recording some new ideas and demos for the next album, so, busy, busy, busy,” Spiller says. “We’re going back on the road really soon.”
The struts drummer Gethin Davies at City of Trees Festival in Sacramento. (Photo by Estefany Gonzalez)
Though The Struts have gained a large following since the release of their debut album Everybody Wants, fame is not something the band members take for granted. The group is dedicated to playing as many shows as possible and working as hard as they can during their U.S. tour.
“Coming over, we kind of wanted to do twice as much work,” Spiller says. “We just felt like we had to.”
The Struts guitarist Adam Slack at City of Trees Festival in Sacramento. (Photo by Estefany Gonzalez)
The reason behind The Struts’ somewhat manic attitude, is that they have seen other UK bands come to the United States and not work as hard as they could have, with negative results.
“They don’t put in the time and what’s needed to do their absolute best. I don’t want us to fail or come up short in terms of our work ethic when it comes to America,” Spiller says.
The Struts bassist Jed Elliott at City of Trees Festival in Sacramento. (Photo by Estefany Gonzalez)
Though Spiller knows he probably won’t have time to wander around wine country, he’s excited for The Struts to return to Napa.
“It’s a beautiful area from what I gathered,” Spiller says. “I have to confess I didn’t really have a lot of time to explore because of the schedule that we had [at BottleRock]. “We can’t wait to come back and I hope to see all the old faces again and maybe some new people as well,” he continued.
The Struts singer Luke Spiller on stage at City of Trees Festival in Sacramento. (Photo by Estefany Gonzalez)
THE STRUTS with special guests Black Pistol Fire and TBD
Mixed grill at Maya, in Sonoma. September 12, 2012.
Jeff Kan Lee
Mixed grill at Maya restaurant in Sonoma. (Photo by Jeff Kan Lee)
What is Latino heritage, and where can you find it along the North Coast? The answer depends on who you talk to.
Sonoma County is home to a diverse Latino population with roots in Central America, South America, the Caribbean and regions of Mexico that have very little in common.
Each group brings with it a rich and complex blend of history, customs and traditions that perhaps are most apparent in the food.
“Many of the region’s countries were first settled by the Spaniards, who were very open to incorporating into their own cuisine the dishes and ingredients of indigenous peoples in South America and the Caribbean, Africans, the French, Dutch, Portuguese, Italians, Asians and so many others,” said Laura Larque, a Latin American historian who teaches at Santa Rosa Junior College.
“Depending on the ingredients available and the geography, regions or even towns next to each other developed a completely different way of cooking. Tamales in Oaxaca are not the same as in Guerrero, and they even vary from one region of Oaxaca to another,” she said.
“That’s why Latin American cuisine is so rich, with unique flavors that you just won’t find on other continents.”
To provide a window into the culinary richness represented in Sonoma County, we asked six chefs with very different roots — from Mexico’s Oaxaca and Yucatan regions to Cuba, Peru, Brazil and Puerto Rico — to describe the quintessential ingredients that make their cuisine uniquely authentic.
Their answers range from indigenous spices to special sauces, often made with family recipes that have been passed down from one generation to the next.
Chef/owner Manuel Arjona runs the kitchen while his son Heir, left, handles the front of the room and the bar at Maya Restaurant on the square in Sonoma. (Photo by John Burgess)
Manuel Arjona – Maya Restaurant, Yucatan
For chef/co-owner Manuel Arjona of Sonoma’s Maya Restaurant, the tiny orange-red seeds of a small tropical plant, achiote, are the herald of Yucatan cooking.
“It’s an ancient spice,” he said, “a little nutty and savory. It has a unique taste, something similar to paprika, that gives an unmistakable flavor to pork or chicken. It’s a very strong flavor, very distinctive, and a little goes a long way — you might compare it to saffron in that way, something that you use in very small quantities. The Mayans used achiote in almost every dish.”
At Maya, Arjona recommends Cochinita Pibil — pork slowly roasted in banana leaves with achiote and sour orange — as a good way to learn about the spice. “It’s a simple dish, but the flavor — unforgettable!”
Those banana leaves also play a big role in Yucatan cuisine. “It’s a unique flavor,” said Arjona, “like using parsley, or cilantro or any other fresh herb. It’s toasted, and I add it to our dishes and stocks. We also wrap our tamales in banana leaves, just as Mayans did.”
Maya Restaurant, 101 E Napa St, Sonoma, CA 95476, (707) 935-3500, www.mayarestaurant.com
Pumpkin bread with slow cooked pork, mole de Oaxaca, toasted pumpkin seeds and plaintains served with mezcal, top left, served in a decorated gourd at Agave Mexican Restaurant and Tequila Bar in Healdsburg. (Photo by Crista Jeremiason)
Octavio Diaz – Agave Mexican Restaurant & Tequila Bar, Oaxaca
“We are so rich in food in Oaxaca,” said Chef Octavio Diaz of Healdsburg’s Agave Mexican Restaurant & Tequila Bar. “We use mescal, black beans, blue beans, blue corn, white corn; and grasshoppers have been around for a long time. But if I have to name one ingredient that sets us apart, it’s mole.
Octavio Diaz holding ingredients he uses to make a mole sauce at his restaurant Agave Mexican Restaurant and Tequila Bar in Healdsburg. (Photo by Crista Jeremiason)
“Mole exists throughout Mexico, and everywhere it’s different. In Oaxaca, though, we’re the region most overpopulated with spices, and you see that in our Mole Negro de Oaxaca, with many kinds of chiles and spices, Mexican chocolate, garlic, almonds, tomatoes, raisins.
“To us, it’s a signature dish that carries a lot of passion, craftsmanship and tradition — mole turns any occasion into a celebration. What keeps your family together is the mole, passing down the recipe through many generations.”
The Mole Negro de Oaxaca (with chicken) at Agave is prepared from a recipe by Diaz’ mother.
Agave Mexican Restaurant & Tequila Bar, 1063 Vine St, Healdsburg, CA 95448, (707) 433-2411, agave-mex.com
Jose Navarro, owner and chef of Sazón Peruvian Cuisine in Santa Rosa. (Photo by Christopher Chung)
Jose Navarro – Sazón, Peru
“We have so many important ingredients in Peruvian cuisine,” said Chef Jose Navarro of Santa Rosa’s Sazón, “but three peppers are essential: aji amarillo, which is yellow-orange in color; aji rocoto, very hot; and aji panca, sort of smoky with lots of flavor and super-important to our cooking. Amarillo I use a lot in sauces, and rocoto in ceviches. Panca I use in all sorts of stuff.
The Ahi Ceviche Nikei, is a dish of raw ahi tuna mixed with soy and ponzu sauces, onions, jalapeno, cilantro, chilies, sesame seeds, and avocado at Sazón in Santa Rosa. (Photo by Beth Schlanker)
“I make a sofrito with a little oil, garlic and panca, add salt and other spices — that gives our food life. Without rocoto I wouldn’t have seven ceviches on my menu. And the amarillo, we’re always discovering new things to do with them; they are amazing. These peppers allow us to add the spice of life to our cooking. More than anything it’s what brings our food out and gives it depth.”
At Sazón, consider ordering a side dish of four Peruvian hot peppers, Navarro’s three mainstays plus aji hucatay.
Sazón Peruvian Restaurant, 1129 Sebastopol Rd, Santa Rosa, CA 95407, (707) 523-4346, facebook.com/SazonPC
Cristina Faga, chef/owner of Brasil BBQ in Petaluma. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
Cristina Faga – Brasil BBQ, Brazil
“What separates our cuisine from other Latin American countries?” asked Chef Cristina Fagan of Brasil BBQ in Petaluma. Pepper sauces, served on the table.
“We Brazilians don’t cook with spice in the food. If I make my beans with spices in them, Americans will order them, but Brazilians won’t. No matter how far away you go from your culture, there are some things you never give up. For Brazilians, 99% of us want spice on the side, on the table, so we can add exactly the right amount to our food.
“There are two types of spice on the table; one is a sauce and the other is a hot oil, and both are made from spicy malagueta peppers imported from Brazil. Other peppers I use are milder, Biquinho and Dedo de moca pimenta.”
Chef Faga grew up on a farm in the Brazilian state of Minas Gerais, learning to cook traditional regional dishes from her mother. You’ll find many of them on the menu at Brasil BBQ, including the quintessential Brazilian dish, Fejoada, along with an ample supply of her homemade pepper sauces on the table.
Brasil BBQ, 5306 Old Redwood Hwy, Petaluma, CA 94954, (707) 665-0644, brasilbbq.co
Cubano sandwich at El Coqui in Santa Rosa. (Photo by Jeff Kan Lee)
Jacqueline Roman – El Coqui, Puerto Rico
Ajicito dulce is the special ingredient that gives sofrito its distinctive Puerto Rican flavor at Chef Jacqueline Roman’s El Coqui restaurant in Santa Rosa.
“I make 10 gallons of sofrito each day,” she said. “A true Puerto Rican sofrito uses Ajicito dulce, a special little pepper that grows in the Caribbean. I order 100 pounds of it every three months from Puerto Rico. Another important ingredient is recao, which is something like cilantro but has much more flavor — and we also use cilantro. In Cuba, sofrito is only red, but in Puerto Rico it can be red or green.
“Like every Italian grandmother has her pasta sauce, every Puerto Rican cook has their own special way of making this blend of peppers, cilantro, onions, garlic, spices and other ingredients that I can’t tell you about because they’re a family secret. We always have a jar stashed in the freezer to whip up some beans or rice in a hurry.
“The other, more obvious ingredient is a staple for our food — plantains, the Caribbean cousin to the banana. They’re a little starchier when unripened, like a potato, and nice and sweet when ripe. They’re a perfect balance of sweet and savory flavors.”
Try El Coqui’s Jibarito, which is seasoned ground beef, tomatoes and cheese between two layers of fried green plantains.
El Coqui, 400 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa, CA 95401, (707) 542-8868, elcoqui2eat.com
Entree at Rumba Cuban Kitchen in Windsor. (Courtesy Photo)
Liz Tormo – Rumba Cuban Kitchen, Cuba
Liz Tormo, chef of Rumba Cuban Kitchen in Windsor, doesn’t hesitate to pinpoint the ingredient that makes Cuban cuisine — influenced by Spain, Africa and the Caribbean — distinctive from any other in Latin America.
“Sofrito is the base for all Cuban food,” she said. “It’s a mix of bell peppers, onions and garlic, but that’s just the first step. You can add to it and change it depending on what you’re cooking. You might add white wine, cumin (which is huge in our cuisine), cilantro, oregano, parsley, tomato sauce.
“Sofrito is not spicy, but is very flavorful. In Cuba, it is our staple more than any other ingredient. I make a fresh batch of sofrito every morning, just enough for a day’s use. Doing it that way adds real freshness to dishes.”
To appreciate the sofrito at Rumba Cuban Kitchen, Tormo suggests trying the Ropa Vieja or Picadillo.
Rumba Cuban Kitchen, 8750 Old Redwood Hwy, Windsor, CA 95492, (707) 687-5632, rumbacubankitchen.com
Entree at Rumba Cuban Kitchen in Windsor. (Couresty Photo)
Barbera is a varietal that screams: “Let me express myself.”
That’s how Greg Graziano sees it. The vintner said the grape’s best expression in California just happens to be in the rugged terrain of Mendocino County.
Graziano is behind our wine-of-the-week winner — the Enotria, 2012 Mendocino County Barbera at $19.
This tasty barbera is weighted to black fruit, although it has a streak of red currant running through it. The red wine, with jammy fruit, has notes of smoke and toasty oak. But the barbera is kept in check with its crisp acidity. It’s a knockout — Graziano at his best.
“Having made barbera since 1990, I understand what the wine is trying to tell me,” he said. “Mendocino County is a great area for this variety. With its very rugged terrain, poor soils, high altitude, very warm days and very cold nights, there is a purity of fruit flavors and aromas and high acidities that are unlike anywhere else in California.”
Barbera was once known as a peasant wine in Italy, but it is now one of the most widely planted varietals in the Piedmonte region. It arrived in California in the 19th century, often tucked in the suitcases of Italian immigrants.
Graziano said he’s up to the challenge of making barbera because he tastes a lot of it, from Italy as well as California.
“The acidity of the wine and its nature to overproduce are the main challenges with barbera,” he said. “Producing barbera for 26 years has taught me much, and working with barbera from several different areas has shown me how it performs in those regions.”
Graziano, 62, was raised in Redwood Valley and Calpella, and he studied at UC Santa Cruz and UC Davis. The founder of the Graziano Family of Wines, he produces brands that include Enotria, Graziano, Monte Volpe and Saint Gregory.
How does he keep his barbera in high demand when there are so many competing wines?
“This is one of the great challenges of my winemaking life,” Graziano said. “With so many varieties to look after, it is both a blessing and a curse.
“Our 30-something number of wines are of course like my children. I love them all but have some favorites, one of which is barbera. I often tell other winemakers, don’t do what I do. Make your life easier.”
In its 42nd year, the Harvest Fair will be serving up the very best of Sonoma County bounty this weekend. While world-class local wines take center stage, local craft beers are stealing some of the spotlight.
Harvest Fair attendees will have the opportunity to meet the brewers first hand, while sampling their brews. Breweries are mixed in alphabetically among the wineries and will serve up some fun surprises (the beer lineup is not revealed in advance).
These five breweries will be serving samples at the Harvest Fair:
The Bear Republic
Famous for the Racer 5, a well balanced, hop forward double IPA, The Bear Republic makes a series of great brews. Look for the Hop Shovel, Peter Brown Ale, Grand Am, Hop Rod Rye, or the Red Rocket Ale. Make sure to try their Salmon BLTA (it won Gold Medal for best Seafood Entrée at this year’s Harvest Fair Restaurant Competition) and pair it with El Oso. If they’re serving Red Rocket, grab a “Noni’s meatball” from Peloton Culinary – amazing pairing.
Carneros Brewing Company
Carneros Brewing Company, located in Sonoma Valley, is owned and operated by four brothers – you might get a chance to meet all of them at this year’s fair. The Sonoma Valley brewery is known for their Jefeweizen and Cerveza Pilsner. They also brew a Negra IPA, Morena Ale, and Carneros IPA – all great.
St. Florian’s Brewing
A personal brewery favorite, St. Florian’s is run an operated by Aron and Amy Levin. Aron and Amy will be showcasing a brand new beer at this year’s fair: the Fresh Hop on the Engine. While I haven’t tasted this beer yet, I am pretty sure I am going to love it…this is a special Pale Ale that they brewed using hops grown by the Santa Rosa High School Ag Program. Bank on another beer or two on rotation; the classic Flashover IPA perhaps, or the popular Cali Common.
Lagunitas Brewing Company
Lagunitas never lets their fans down. From the Daytime IPA to Little Sumpin’, everyone’s palate is sure to be pleased here. I am hoping to get a sip on the 12th of Never and the Lagunitas Sucks.
Henhouse Brewing
New to the taproom scene, the Henhouse brewers are no strangers to the Sonoma County Beer scene. They started out promoting their beers through events like the Harvest Fair, and serve up an incredibly delicious Saison as well as an Oyster Stout and Pilsner.
The Harvest Fair Grand tasting is located in the Grace Pavilion at the Santa Rosa Fairgrounds. The wine and beer tasting event is indoors. Tickets can be purchased through the website for $55/person, per day, all inclusive.
350 Bennett Valley Rd. Santa Rosa, CA 95404, (707) 545-4200, www.harvestfair.org,
This weekend is the 42nd annual Harvest Fair at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. Saturday, thousands of cyclists will ride scenic Sonoma County roads for Levi’s GranFondo. Petaluma kicks off a month of Dia de Los Muertos festivities with this Sunday’s opening ceremony. All this and more is in our list of things to do.
FRIDAY, Sept 30
Sonoma County Harvest Fair: In its 42nd year, the best of Sonoma County’s bounty is highlighted in 3 days of tasting and celebration at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. This traditional community event features world-class wines, award winning beer and delicious culinary treats, plus the much anticipated grape stomp, live music, a classic car show and more. Tickets are $5 admission, or $55 for admission and tasting tickets. Find out all the details at harvestfair.org. (Sept 30-Oct. 2)
7500 bicycle riders crowd the start of Levi Leipheimers King Ridge Gran Fondo. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
SATURDAY, Oct. 1
Levi’s GranFondo: This Saturday, thousands of cyclists from all over the globe will ride the scenic routes of Sonoma County. During and after the race, attend the FondoSonoma Festival at the Finley Center in Santa Rosa, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. The event includes performances by The Sam Chase & The Untraditional, The Pulsators and more. Find out all the details at levisgranfondo.com.
North Bay Belly Dance Bazaar: Come to Siren’s Studio in Sebastopol this Saturday and Sunday for a weekend of dance, music, food and fun. The event will feature over 100 dancers, plus a competition and workshops, live music, and a fire show. Admission is $20. Find out all the details at northbaybellydancebazaar.net. (Oct. 1-2)
Classic Sports Racing Group Charity Challenge: This weekend’s racing event at Sonoma Raceway is revving its engines for a good cause. More than 200 vintage race cars will hit the track to raise funds for Sonoma County youth groups through Speedway Children’s Charities. Tickets are $12-$40. Find out more at sonomaraceway.com. (Oct. 1-2)
Sunday kicks off a month of events surrounding El Dia de Los Muertos. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
SUNDAY, Oct. 2
Summer Concerts at the Village: This Sunday, get your dancing shoes on when the Jami Jameson Band brings you an energetic array of swing, jazz and blues to boogie to. The performance takes place 1-4 p.m. at the Village Terrace near Cattleman’s, and is, as always, free to attend. Find out more at mvshops.com.
Calabash: This Sunday, view gourds in a whole new way when artists share their gourd-created art at Food for Thought in Forestville. The annual event features gourds given a new life as instruments, accessories, sculptures and everyday objects. Enjoy a silent auction, live music, tours through the Food for Thought gardens and more. Tickets are $50-$55. Find out more at fftfoodbank.org.
El Dia de Los Muertos Opening Day: Sunday kicks off a month of events surrounding El Dia de Los Muertos, starting with a festival and Health Fair at St. Vincent de Paul Church Plaza. The event will include music, dance and traditional foods. Find out more at bit.ly/PetalumaDiaDeLosMuertos.
More Upcoming Events:
Ayesha Curry: ‘Women in Conversation’ series with ‘The Seasoned Life’ author, 7 p.m. Oct. 7, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. (Photo by Rebecca Chotkowski)
Friday, Sept. 30
Wesla Whitfield: ‘Music From the Movies,’ Sonoma Film Institute fundraiser, 7:30 tonight, Schroeder Hll, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $30. 664-2606, sonoma.edu/sfi.
Emmylou Harris: Thirteen-time Grammy-winning country-Americana singer-songwriter, 8 tonight, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. $49-$69. 546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org.
‘Threepenny Opera’: Musical satire with mayhem and madness, opens 8 tonight, runs through Oct. 23, 6th Street Playhouse, Santa Rosa. $15-$38. 523-4185, 6thstreetplayhouse.com.
Saturday, Oct. 1
Tracy Morgan: ‘Picking Up the Pieces’ stand-up comedy tour, 8 p.m. Saturday, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. $49-$65. 546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org.
Johnny Vegas & The High Rollers: Disco, soul, Motown and classic rock, noon-3 p.m. Saturday, Village Court, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa. Free. 545-3844, mvshops.com.
Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra: Fifteen top jazz musicians, including Wynton Marsalis, 7 p.m. Saturday, Weill Hall, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $50-$110. (866) 955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.
Sunday, Oct. 2
Omara Portuondo: Latin jazz and balladry with the 85-year-old Cuban performer, 7 p.m. Sunday, Weill Hall, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $40-$95. (866) 955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.
Monday, Oct. 3
‘Haunted Sonoma County’: Premiere of Petaluma filmmaker Tom Wyrsch’s documentary about local supernatural occurrences, 7 and 9 p.m. Monday, Sebastiani Theatre, Sonoma. $15. 996-9756, sebastianitheatre.com.
Tuesday, Oct. 4
Charlie Quimby: Author of ‘Inhabited’ and ‘Monument Road,’ 7 p.m. Tuesday, Copperfield’s Books, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa. Free. 578-8938, copperfieldsbooks.com.
Wednesday, Oct. 5
Eowyn Ivey: Lit Night series with ‘To the Bright Edge of the World’ author, 7 p.m. Wednesday, Copperfield’s Books, Petaluma. Free. 762-0563, copperfieldsbooks.com.
Jewish Film Festival: First of six films, ‘Wounded Land,’ 1 and 7:30 p.m. Wednesday, Rialto Cinemas, Sebastopol. $10-$13. jccsoco.org.
Thursday, Oct. 6
Nicholas Sparks: Conversation with the New York Times bestselling author of 20 books, 7 p.m. Thursday, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. $40 includes ‘Two by Two.’ 546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org.
Lorca Hart Trio: Versatile drummer and his group, 7:30 p.m. Thursday, Cloverdale Arts Alliance. $20. 894-4410, cloverdaleartsalliance.org.
Matt Mauser’s Tribute to Sinatra: ‘Concerts Under the Stars’ season finale, 5:30-8 p.m. Thursday, Village Court, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa. Free. 545-3844, mvshops.com.
Friday, Oct. 7
Ayesha Curry: ‘Women in Conversation’ series with ‘The Seasoned Life’ author, 7 p.m. Oct. 7, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. $125 for three-speaker series, includes book. 546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org.
Blind Scream Haunted House: Three haunted houses, coffin burial, movies, zombie paintball, 7 p.m. Oct. 7, select days through Halloween, near Sally Tomatoes, Rohnert Park. $10-$30. 837-1928, blindscream.com.
Jean Hegland: Book launch for the Sonoma County author’s ‘Still Time’ novel, 7 p.m. Oct. 7, Occidental Center for the Arts. Free, donations accepted. 874-9392, occidentalcenterforthearts.org.
‘Leaving Home’: Santa Rosa Junior College original play opens 8 p.m. Oct. 7, Newman Auditorium, SRJC Santa Rosa campus. $12-$18. 527-4307, theatrearts.santarosa.edu.
Saturday, Oct. 8
Greg Kihn Band: Rock ’n’ roll and pop music, 8:30 p.m. Oct. 8, Mystic Theatre, Petaluma. $25. 765-2121, mystictheatre.com.
Art Trails: Sebastopol Center for the Arts presents open studio tours of 160 diverse Sonoma County artists, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Oct. 8-9 and 15-16. Free. 829-4797, sonomacountyarttrails.org.
Chris Smither: Folk and blues singer-songwriter in concert, 8 p.m. Oct. 8, Sebastopol Community Cultural Center. $23-$26. 823-1511, seb.org.
‘XXc Icons of Photography’: The best of world photography, exhibit opening, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Oct. 8, Sonoma Valley Museum of Art. $5-$15. 939-7862, svma.org.
Pride and Joy: ‘Rockin’ Concert’ season finale, noon-3 p.m. Oct. 8, Village Court, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa. Free. 545-3844, mvshops.com
Colbie Caillat: Pop singer-songwriter and acoustic guitarist, 8 p.m. Oct. 8, Uptown Theatre, Napa. $45-$60. 259-0123, uptowntheatrenapa.com.
Sunday, Oct. 9
Gator Nation: ‘Concert Under the Terrace’ season finale, 1-4 p.m. Oct. 9, ‘Concert Under the Terrace’ season finale, Village Terrace, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa. Free. 5453844, mvshops.com.
Scott Capurro: Stand-up comic known for his deliberately provocative material, 8 p.m. Oct. 9, HopMonk Tavern, Sebastopol. $15-$20. 829-7300, hopmonk-sebastopol.ticketfly.com.
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It’s rare to find a restaurant in sunny Sonoma County that doesn’t have an umbrella or two for al fresco dining, but not all patios are created equal. We’ve made a list of al fresco options with shaded patios, prime sidewalk people-watching and sun-dappled gardens worth seeking out. Just remember the sunscreen. Click through the gallery for details.
