Jeff Clark pulls suckers and leafs a vineyard, Saturday, July 6, 2024, during a work party with the Sonoma Winemakers Club. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
Take a trip through most small towns and you’ll find the usual public amenities: A park, a library, maybe even a pool — but a city vineyard?
Welcome to Tex Juen Park and Vineyard in Sonoma, where about an acre of Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon is meticulously maintained and harvested by a devoted crew of hobby enologists called the Sonoma Home Winemakers.
“It was a big lot of weeds when the city took over,” says Doug Ghiselin, who helped establish the tiny, unassuming vineyard on Leveroni Road near downtown Sonoma in the 1990s, along with namesake Henry “Tex” Juen, better known as a prolific stonemason who built many Sonoma Valley wineries.
“Somebody called it a vineyard. But the only vines that were there at the time were the big, heavy, thick ones — the Sauvignon Blanc at the end of the rows.”
Longtime club officer Doug Ghiselin, left, with Rebecca Kreeger at Ghiselin’s home wine cellar in Sonoma. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)Awards in the basement of Doug Ghiselin’s wine cellar Saturday, July 6, 2024, during a work party with the Sonoma Winemakers Club. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
Originally calling themselves “The Valley of the Moon Dilettante Enological Society,” the group planted new vines donated by local wineries and grapegrowers. Where once there was a mink farm, and later an artist colony, now there is a “teaching vineyard.” If you want to learn printmaking or ceramics, you go to the local community center. For budding viticulturists and winemakers, there is Tex Juen vineyard.
On a recent morning, midway through another heat wave, Ghiselin and six other members set up a table in the shade alongside the vineyard. They’re part of “the Leveroni Group,” a subgroup within Sonoma Home Winemakers who do most of the care and harvesting. Within minutes, they’re popping a 2019 Merlot, aged in Ghiselin’s makeshift wine cellar, aka a crawlspace beneath his house.
The Merlot tastes like any moderately priced bottle you might pull off the shelf at a local wine shop. To the bikers, joggers and walkers that pass by frequently along the adjacent Fryer Creek Trail, it seems perfectly normal that the group are standing around drinking wine at 11 in the morning.
In 2023, the Leveroni Group filled two barrels each of Chardonnay and Merlot from around 1,000 vines on just over an acre. Other members farm a few additional rows of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. Some of the wine will go to the city of Sonoma, for pouring and auctioning off at fundraisers and events. But most is split between members.
Over the years, member Bob Brindley catalogued the most common reactions he gets after pouring homemade wine for the uninitiated. They range from “I’ve had worse” and “it’s drinkable” to “not bad” and “this is really good” — the last comment uttered almost in shock.
Dressing up the morning work party’s picnic table with a tablecloth and a spread of gourmet cheeses and almonds is member Rebecca Kreeger, who joined the group in 2019 after she and her husband bought a home with 63 Cabernet Sauvignon vines that needed caring for. Kreeger’s block was too small to hire a professional vineyard company, so she came to a monthly meeting looking for pruning tips. Before long, she was out in the vineyard with Ghiselin and the gang.
Jeff Clark pulls suckers and leafs a vineyard, Saturday, July 6, 2024, during a work party with the Sonoma Winemakers Club. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
The group has around 50 devoted members, many who have small vineyards at their homes. They regularly attend monthly meetings, where wine industry guest speakers often share their expertise and year-round vineyard work parties. At the parties they do jobs like pruning, suckering, weeding and sulfur dusting.
Many volunteer at harvest, collecting grapes in truckloads of 5-gallon buckets. Some are retired or semi-retired, while others are near the end of their careers. Vocations include salumi salesman, travel industry executive, fabricator of large-scale art installations, savings and loan asset manager, and newspaper ad rep. One member, Joseph Daniel, made a documentary called “Tiny Vineyards,” and now makes wine professionally.
They all have a similar dream — to make the best possible wine on what is often the smallest scale possible, with the least amount of expensive tools.
Without professional resources, sometimes basic winemaking needs like temperature control can be a challenge. Over the years, there have been plenty of mistakes and lessons learned. About a decade ago, the city cut off the water. The group has been learning to dry-farm ever since, except for new plantings.
One year, they were fermenting Chardonnay in aluminum beer kegs when a newbie filled them too high and all of the kegs bubbled over. Another year, they didn’t have the technology to determine if the wine had gone through malolactic fermentation. They bottled it — and corks started popping when warm weather hit.
“We’re always trying to find ways to make what we do better, or make the wine better, and so a lot of that is learning from experience,” Brindley says. “We’ve had situations where something didn’t work out and was a big disappointment. And other times we’ve seen really, really big improvement.”
In 2020, the Chardonnay was loaded with too much residual sugar, which led to super-high alcohol content. “It was totally oxidized,” says Brindley. “It tasted like a bad sherry, which you don’t want in a Chardonnay.” Most of it went down the drain, but some people distilled it into rubbing alcohol. Kreeger bottled it in plastic spray cans she uses to clean around the house.
Club member Jesse Castro checks on the fruit at the Tex Juen Vineyard in Sonoma. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
In a way, it’s nothing new. “The Chardonnay never really came out that good back in the day,” says Ghiselin. The reason? “We didn’t have a lot of wine snobs in the group back then,” he says with a dry laugh. After working 30 years in the Vallejo shipyards, he enjoys poking some good-natured fun at some of the less blue-collar winemakers who have joined the ranks over the years.
At an open house in January, part of the mission was to actively recruit the next wave of home winemakers. Paz Del Rascate and Jesse Castro, both in their 30s, were immediately hooked. The friends were already working locally in wine production but wanted to branch out from their day jobs. At their first meeting, a member offered them 100 Chardonnay vines to maintain, harvest and turn into wine. Soon after, someone else offered them 86 Merlot vines. And the offers kept coming. This harvest, they’ll be making wine from nearly 1,400 vines they’ve adopted.
“It’s been crazy,” says Del Rescate, who used to ferment cheap wine in a bag back in his dorm room at Texas A&M. “And in exchange, all they want is a little bit of finished wine.”
Overwhelmed with the amount of pruning, they reached out last winter to Kreeger for help. “She sent out a post, and all of a sudden eight members came out to help us prune,” says Castro. “They had only met us like once or twice. I was like, ‘Wow, is this for real?’ The fact that they came out to support us just speaks volumes.”
When harvest rolls around, “I know if we need more help, they’ll be there,” says Del Rescate. “You can’t do this alone — it takes a community.”
Sonoma Home Winemakers hosts monthly educational talks and group events at the Sonoma Community Center. There are also twice-monthly Saturday morning work parties at the Tex Juen Park and Vineyard in Sonoma. New members are always welcome. For more information, visit sonomahomewine.org.
Kunde Vineyards at peak fall color in Kenwood. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
To taste wine while soaking in the autumn colors in the vineyards is a far more interesting — and delicious — form of leaf peeping. October is the ideal time to witness Sonoma County’s colorful transition from summer to fall in the field, so start making plans now.
Read on below for a few favorite Sonoma wineries for taking in the fall colors.
Jordan Vineyard & Winery
In fall, the buttercup-colored Jordan chateau, covered in Boston ivy, is as iconic a place as any in Sonoma. The ivy morphs from vibrant green to red, then orange to pale yellow. Beyond those walls, the 1,200-acre Alexander Valley estate includes approximately 120 acres planted to Bordeaux red grape varieties.
1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg. 707-431-5250, jordanwinery.com
The front gate and vineyards at Sonoma’s Bartholomew Estate Winery in fall. (Courtesy of Bartholomew Estate Winery)
Bartholomew Estate Vineyards and Winery
Hiking through vineyards is a fine way to see fall colors. But a ride on horseback offers a higher-level, ever-changing perspective. In conjunction with Sonoma Valley Trail Rides, the winery hosts 45-minute rides through the 375-acre estate and its vineyards, with a bottle of wine to take home ($150). There’s also a 3-mile hiking trail past oaks, madrones and vines.
Long known for its Tuscan-style tasting room and marketplace, Viansa also affords an impressive 270-degree sweep that takes in the autumnal palette across the valley, as well as views of nearby wetlands that harbor migrating waterfowl. Wood-framed hillside outlooks — the winery describes them as grown-up tree houses — can be booked for groups of up to six and come with service of four wines, cheese and charcuterie ($75). The Summit Tasting ($40) has broad views from a hilltop terrace.
25200 Arnold Drive, Sonoma. 800-995-4740, viansa.com
Keller Estate
From this Petaluma Gap vineyard perched at 500 feet, the view to the south encompasses glowing grapevines, trees and fall foliage stretching across southern Sonoma and northern Marin. Tastings here include a walking tour of the stunning property.
Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Kendall-Jackson)View of Kunde Family Winery’s vineyards in Kenwood during the Mountain Top Tasting. (Courtesy Kunde Family Winery)
Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens
Kendall-Jackson’s four-acre culinary gardens provide fresh produce for tasting experiences as well as a feast for the eyes during harvest season. The best way to enjoy both is at the estate’s upcoming Come Over October Harvest Hangout from 1-3 p.m. on Oct. 19. The free event includes live music, garden tours and wine tastings paired with fall bites, featuring expert culinary gardener Tucker Taylor along with special winemaker appearances. If you can’t make the harvest hangout, the estate also offers a Garden Tour & Tasting ($55) April through October.
5007 Fulton Road, Santa Rosa. 707-571-8100, kj.com
Kunde Family Winery
There are few Sonoma wineries that show off autumn colors as gloriously as this Kenwood winery and vineyard estate. The 1,850-acre ranch, established in 1879, is enveloped by terraced vineyards and oak woodlands. The effect is one of a blanket of marigold, pumpkin and rust — especially when seen from 1,400 feet up during the Mountain Top Tasting ($100). Kunde’s vineyard views lend to it being among our favorite winery patios in the county.
The estate at Bricoleur Vineyards is beautiful any time of year, and autumn is no exception. With Bricoleur’s Essentials Picnic ($75), guests can enjoy an alfresco picnic either on the pavilion lawn, under a trellis by the pond, or at the picnic tables in the culinary and rose gardens. The picnic package includes a chic red wagon to cart around while exploring the estate grounds as well as a chilled glass of wine and a wicker basket filled with gourmet picnic items.
The hillside tasting room at Trattore Farms (named for the Italian word for tractor) affords sweeping views of Dry Creek Valley to the west and Geyser Peak and Mount St. Helena to the east, all awash in fall color. Various experiences are offered, including wine and olive oil tastings and the Get Your Boots Dirty Tour ($95) — a drive through the vineyards and olive orchard in a Kawasaki utility vehicle, with a stop at the olive mill center and a tasting of wines and olive oils.
Pies at Hazel restaurant in Occidental. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Eat dessert first, because those peas and carrots aren’t going anywhere. No matter what mom said, we’re all about enjoying the sweeter things in life and worrying about the rest tomorrow.
When the call went out for some of your favorite desserts, we couldn’t help but add a few of our own guilty pleasures from around Sonoma County. Read with caution, because this list is jam-packed with chocolate, sugar, whipped cream and cookies.
National Dessert Day is Oct. 14, so now would be as good a time as any to get acquainted with the best desserts in the county.
Story by Sofia Englund, Jennifer Graue, Heather Irwin and Maci Martell. Readers contributed their dessert picks on the Sonoma Magazine Facebook.
Heather’s Picks
Banana pudding with Nilla wafers soaked in dark rum and coffee at Rocker Oysterfeller’s at Lucas Wharf in Bodega Bay on Friday, Aug. 23, 2024. (Erik Castro / for The Press Democrat)
Banana Pudding, Rocker Oysterfeller’s at Lucas Wharf, Bodega Bay
Even if you’re not a huge banana fan, this very adult version of the Southern classic marries layers of creamy banana pudding and fresh bananas with ‘Nilla wafers soaked in dark rum and coffee.
Every month is a new cupcake adventure, and owner Anna Rodriguez loves to dig deep for inspirations, ranging from Dolly Parton and Prince to a spooky seasonal ode to Beetlejuice.
Feel free to dive into a hefty slice of this espresso-soaked dessert made with mascarpone rather than whipped cream. The sweetness is toned down, making it a calorie-worthy dessert without the sugar shock.
Apple Strudel from Tisza Bistro chef/owner Krisztian Karkus Monday, Feb. 12, 2024, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Strudel, Tisza Bistro, Healdsburg
This seemingly simple dessert is made in-house by stretching the dough into thin, buttery layers filled with seasonal fruit, including apples, cherries and poppy seeds.
Every Friday is pie day at this Occidental restaurant. Co-owner Michele Wimborough’s pies are legendary, ranging from peanut butter and blackberry to Dutch apple and lemon meringue. You never know what she’ll be making, which is half the fun of your pie adventure.
Handcrafted on-site, this family-run ice creamery has flavors that change with the season, but their spiced chai tea scoops have cinnamon, cardamom and ginger for a special zing.
A variety of ice cream, or glacée, from Goguette Bread in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy Goguette Bread)
Glacée and Petit Beurre Cookies, Goguette Bread, Santa Rosa
This popular boulangerie extended its opening hours to 9 p.m. this summer, a brilliant move as warm Sonoma County nights made for a perfect excuse to indulge in their housemate glacée — a decadent French custard-style ice cream — to the tune of chansons on their Parisian patio. Picking a couple of flavors (new ones are made each week) is near impossible when you have choices like pistachio, rose, violet and choco-orange. Whatever flavor you pick, pair your treat with Le Petit Beurre, Goguette’s take on the shortbread from Nantes, in the Brittany region of France. Order in advance to bring your desserts home during fall and winter — ice cream and cookies are not just for summer.
If you’re craving dessert, this miniature version of lemon meringue may seem a bit petite at first glance. But what it lacks in size it makes up for in flavor. It’s also very pretty — a bright yellow swirl served in a tiny glass jar. Enjoy it in one of the Adirondack chairs outdoors or seated by the large windows, watching the world go by on Sonoma Avenue. Or bring it home, like we often do. The evidence: tall stacks of tiny glass jars in our kitchen cupboard.
Meyer lemon curd topped with meringue from The Pharmacy in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Gluten-free Carrot Cake, Zoftig Eatery, Santa Rosa
Carrot cake, done right, can be absolutely sublime. Zoftig Eatery has perfected the art of the carrot cake with a gluten-free version that has the Goldilocks ratio of just the right amount of carrot, spice, sweetness and moistness. It is rich, but not overpowering, and the cream cheese frosting is really the icing on the cake, not detracting from the flavors by being overly sweet or artificial-tasting. The secret, according to co-owner Sonjia Spector, is high-quality spices and lasting friendships: the restaurant buys the gluten-free flour for the cake from Spector’s childhood friend Dawn Zaft of Criminal Baking Co. We have attempted to split this generous slice of carrot cake in two and save the second half for the following day, but never succeeded.
Vegan Elderflower/Berry Mini Cake, Criminal Baking Company, Santa Rosa
This hidden gem bakery, located off the beaten path in a red brick industrial building on Donahue Street, continues to serve up the best sweet treats in Sonoma County. The menu changes frequently, but you won’t be disappointed whatever you order. A recent favorite includes a vegan elderflower/berry mini cake — the kind of heavenly dessert that treats your taste buds to a kind of transcendental experience. The outdoor seating, under bright yellow umbrellas, is lovely but we like the bustling indoor space that feels like a theater set beneath tall ceilings.
A naturally gluten-free cake, Gateau Parisien is a rustic almond macaron layered with a praline buttercream. From Patisserie Angelica in Sebastopol. (Courtesy Patisserie Angelica)
Gateau Parisien, Patisserie Angelica, Sebastopol
If the words “gluten-free dessert” normally leave you cold, this ethereal treat (which just won the best of show award in the 2024 Sonoma County Harvest Fair) will change your mind. Three layers of almond macaron are layered with Italian praline buttercream. It’s not overly sweet and is simply delicious. The best part? In addition to full sized cakes, they also come in individual servings so you don’t have to share.
Fruit Basket Cake, Oliver’s Market, multiple locations
This cake perennially pops up at birthdays, retirement parties and Mother’s Day gatherings, and every single time it appears, we make a beeline for the dessert table. An eye-catching rainbow of fruit for a topping draws you in, but the layers of moist vanilla cake, pastry cream and a hint of raspberry jam keep you coming back for just one more bite. Cakes come in 6, 8 and 10 inches, plus two sheet cake sizes for when you’re serving a crowd.
Co-owner Christian Sullberg cuts a slice of Peanut Butter Pie at Noble Folk Ice Cream and Pie Bar in Santa Rosa. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Peanut Butter Mousse Pie, Noble Folk, Santa Rosa & Healdsburg
This pie is 9 inches of decadence, and it is worthy every single, silky bite. Noble Folk’s co-owner, Christian Sullberg, fills an Oreo cookie crust with whipped peanut butter mousse and tops it all with a cloud of whipped cream. It’s a seasonal pie, usually only on the menu a couple of times a year, but it’s your lucky day because it’s available right now just in time for National Dessert Day. My 2022 Thanksgiving story included a recipe for it; super bonus!
Brownie Cupcake and Baby Fruit Galettes, Downtown Bakery & Creamery, Healdsburg
Step into Healdsburg’s Downtown Bakery, and suddenly words like “carbs” and “calories” have no meaning. The incredibly rich and chocolaty brownie cupcake is a treat I will never pass up. And whatever fruit galette is available, get it. All of them are winners.
Croissants, sticky buns, blueberry scones and a baby apple quince galette from the Downtown Bakery and Creamery in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Cinnamon Babka, Grossman’s Noshery & Bar, Santa Rosa
Skip the slice and go right for the half loaf of Grossman’s sticky, sweet cinnamon babka to take home and share with loved ones. Or hide it away to indulge in to yourself — we’ve all been there. The chocolate crinkle cookies and rugelach also never disappoint.
Apple Pecan Crumble Pie, Petaluma Pie Company, Petaluma
This brown sugar-sweetened apple pie is topped with a nutty crumble and a generous drizzle of housemade salted caramel for a luscious fall dessert. Bring it to the Thanksgiving table this year to switch up your traditional pie offerings and make a lasting impression. And while nothing beats grandma’s homemade, from-the-garden strawberry rhubarb pie, this humble pie shop’s sweet-tart strawberry rhubarb comes as close as it gets.
Carrot Chocolate Chip Cookies and Cardamom Braids, Cacau Bakery, Santa Rosa
“Cacau bakery (Swedish and Brazillian, found in the farmers markets in Santa Rosa and elsewhere) — carrot chocolate chip cookies and cardamom braids. Go here if you’re tired of sugar being used as the flavor rather than the flavor enhancer,” wrote Per-Anders Edwards on Facebook. “They know what Scandinavian food tastes like … they even use the right type of cardamom.”
Scandia Bakery proprietor Marcela Barrenechea with her well-known princess cake at the shop on Fifth Street West on Tuesday, May 16, 2023. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
Princess Cake, Scandia Bakery, Sonoma
A vanilla cake filled with raspberry jam and vanilla custard, covered in whipped cream and rolled in marzipan icing.
“The Swedish Princess Cake from (the) Scandinavian bakery in Sonoma! Outstanding!” wrote in Maria LeVicki on Facebook.
“That was the birthday cake my mom wanted every year!” replied Donna Litvin.
“The berry turnovers at Mom’s Apple Pie,” replied Elizabeth Jack to our query on best local desserts on Facebook. “Crispy, buttery layers around mixed berries. Yum!”
Chocolate Mousse, CIBO Rustico Pizzeria, Santa Rosa
The Coppa Tre Cioccolati Mousse at CIBO has silky white chocolate, dark chocolate, and hazelnut and wafers.
“CIBO Rustico Pizzeria — 3 layer chocolate mousse,” wrote Emily Haws on Facebook. “What dreams are made of.”
1305 Cleveland Ave., Suite C, Santa Rosa, 707-623-9906, ciborustico.com
Screaming Mimi’s won best Ice Cream or Yogurt by Press Democrat readers for Best of Sonoma County 2024. July 10, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Ice Cream, Screamin’ Mimi’s, Sebastopol
“Screaming Mimi’s Mimi’s Mud Chocolate Espresso Ice Cream in Sebastopol!” wrote Marty Waldron.
Mimi’s Mud is an espresso ice cream with chocolate chips, Oreo-like cookies and housemade fudge. Screamin’ Mimi’s Pumpkin Mud is also back this fall season.
“Lavender ice cream from Screamin’ Mimi’s Ice Cream,” wrote Michi Cardenas Campos.
“Wit & Wisdom: Deconstructed S’more,” Emily Haws wrote on Facebook. “Chef Danny and team always push the level with desserts. I have enjoyed so many incredible ones — and they serve Fiorello’s Artisan Gelato, which is a plus in my eyes!”
The restaurant’s current dessert menu includes Woodfired S’mores Souffle for two, served with cherry coulis, Fiorello vanilla gelato and a graham streusel.
“You might miss these little guys next to the till, or pass over them thinking they’re just for decoration,” wrote Per-Anders Edwards. “But if you’re a fan of gooey meringue (the best kind on a pavlova, Eton Mess or lemon meringue tart) and miss it, here you can get a single mouthful that’s just as much as you’d want before the sugar coma kicks in. Two flavors. They have some great savory options.”
Les Pascals in Glen Ellen is an authentic French bakery and cafe popular with the bicycle set. Fresh pastries and housemade breads, along with cookies, croissants, brioche and sandwiches. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Mama Janne’s Cream Cheese Pie, Stark’s Steak & Seafood, Santa Rosa
“Mama Janne’s Cheese Pie at Stark’s Steakhouse — the best,” John Noble wrote on Facebook.
The pie is filled with brown butter peaches and topped with a graham cracker crumble.
“Warike Restobar – Churros,” wrote Per-Anders Edwards on Facebook. “Fun, shareable, finally a decent amount of cinnamon! The rest of the menu’s great, too.”
Warike’s churros are filled with manjar blanco (similar to dulce de leche) and served with vanilla ice cream.
527 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-536-9201, warikesf.com
Pumpkin Spice Bundtlet, Nothing Bundt Cakes, Santa Rosa
“Nothing Bundt Cakes (Santa Rosa Coddingtown mall) — Pumpkin Spice bundtlet,” wrote Per-Anders Edwards on Facebook. “You can ask for it minus the icing in ‘naked’ form. Once you eliminate the octopus of icing, this is pretty similar in flavor profile and texture to some Swedish spice cakes.”
Almond Matcha Pound Cake, baked into a swirl pattern served with fresh strawberries from Preston Farm from Cloverdale Flour Girl Shannon Moore. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Cakes and Apple Cider Doughnuts, Flour Girl, Cloverdale
“Flour Girl — her cakes and apple cider donuts are to die for!” wrote Savannah DelCampo-Snyde.
“Sarmentine — A French patisserie worth visiting in three locations now (Santa Rosa, Sebastopol and Petaluma). Go for the tartlets, the fruit one is a favorite, also a good loaf and super deep dish quiche.” – Per-Anders Edwards
Condé Nast Traveler, an online and print guide to luxury travel around the world, received over 578,000 votes from readers in its recent survey. The annual awards ranks prime travel destinations ranging from best resorts and hotels to countries, restaurants, airlines and more. Winners are independently selected by Condé Nast readers.
The pool at Bardessono Hotel and Spa in Yountville. (Courtesy Bardessono Hotel)
Bardessono Hotel and Spa, Yountville
Bardessono Hotel and Spa in Yountville, Napa County, made No. 14 on the list. The 62-room “eco-luxe hotel” offers an on-site spa and garden-to-table inspired restaurant, Lucy Restaurant and Bar, for guests. The suites include both indoor and outdoor showers, “massive living rooms,” outdoor patios and flat-screen TVs, according to the article.
Condé Naste calls the hotel “the ultimate place to slip completely under the radar while being surrounded by world-renowned art and nature.” A night’s stay ranges from $737 to $1,545, depending on the date.
Silverado Resort and Spa in Napa. (Courtesy of Silverado Resort)
Silverado Resort and Spa, Napa
The Silverado Resort and Spa in Napa came in at No. 43 on the list. Known for being “one of the most renowned destinations in Napa Valley” and having an abundance of “state-of-the-art sports facilities,” according to the article, the 1,200-acre resort offers eight on-site dining options with fresh, seasonal produce grown from the resort’s garden as well as hiking and biking trails, private cabanas at the pool and live music on the lawns during summer.
The Silverado costs about $220 to $450 a night, depending on the date.
The lobby at Montage Healdsburg. (Montage Healdsburg)English Pea Soup poured at the table over lavender, coconut yogurt and vintner’s coppa from Hazel Hill at Montage Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Montage Healdsburg
One hotel in Sonoma County made the list. Montage Healdsburg ranked No. 36.
The hotel is set on 258 acres, surrounded by oak trees and vineyards. This is the first property Montage International, an Orange County-based hotel and resort brand, has built in Northern California, according to the article. It has 130 rooms raised, to disturb the land as little as possible and “celebrate its own landscape, leaving the 22,000 live oaks in place,” stated Condé Naste Traveler. The resort’s restaurant, Hazel Hill, offers guests a variety of Sonoma County wines, beers and food.
A night’s stay at Montage Healdsburg ranges from $670 to $5,700.
The only other places in California to make the list were L’Horizon Resort & Spa in Palm Springs (No. 1) and the Waldorf Astoria Monarch Beach Resort & Club in Dana Point, Orange County (No. 25).
Many of the redesigned guest rooms at The Sea Ranch Lodge offer cozy window seats that encourage guests to linger and take in sweeping coastal views. (Adam Potts)
According to Condé Nast Traveler, more than 575,000 readers across the United States weighed in on this year’s survey. Ratings were submitted online during the sweepstakes period of April 1 through June 30, 2024. You can read more about how the results were tabulated here.
The Lodge at Bodega Bay. (Caitlin Atkinson/The Lodge at Bodega Bay)
No. 1: The Lodge at Bodega Bay
Snagging the highest ranking on the top 20 hotels in Northern California list, the coastal retreat places above the likes of Big Sur’s Post Ranch Inn and Sausalito’s Cavallo Point.
Farmhouse Inn, 7871 River Road, Forestville, 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com
No. 7: Vintage House at The Estate Yountville
Set within walking distance of just about everything in Yountville, Vintage House is one of two hotel properties on Washington Street at The Estate Yountville.
Its sister property, Hotel Villagio, took No. 12 on Conde Nast Traveler’s 2024 Readers’ Choice Awards list of top 20 hotels in Northern California.
Auberge du Soleil in Rutherford. (Courtesy Auberge du Soleil)
No. 8: Auberge du Soleil, Auberge Resorts Collection
Inspired by the south of France, the restaurant at this Rutherford property has been awarded a Michelin Star for 17 consecutive years. Auberge du Soleil, Auberge Resorts Collection, also holds the Michelin guide’s most prestigious “Three Key” distinction along with just 16 other hotels in the country.
Smack dab in the heart of downtown Napa and an easy walk to the city’s ever-growing list of wine tasting rooms, restaurants and shops, the Archer also boasts a cool rooftop pool.
Many guest rooms at The Sea Ranch Lodge offer cozy window seats that encourage guests to take in coastal views. (Adam Potts)
No. 17: The Sea Ranch Lodge
No two of the 17 recently redesigned guest rooms are the same. However, the notion of “living lightly on the land” is consistent throughout each accommodation at The Sea Ranch Lodge.
With sought-after access to the Russian River, accommodations at Dawn Ranch come in a variety of configurations. Lodging options range from luxe glamping tents and one-room cabins to two-bedroom bungalows with a full kitchen.
Hall Wines is one of the best Napa wineries for first-time visitors. (Hall Wines)
Napa Valley is widely considered one of the premier wine destinations in the world. Millions of people come here each year to sip wine, eat good food and stay in luxury resorts. But with over 400 wineries to choose from, it can be overwhelming to plan a first visit.
To help visitors create a perfect trip itinerary, we have put together this list of Napa wineries that offer a great introduction to the superlatives of the region. And, because the ambiance and setting is just as important as the wine, we have created a photo gallery above that offers a peek at each winery.
Domaine Carneros
Every visit to Napa Valley should begin with bubbles. Founded by the famed Taittinger family, Domaine Carneros produces French-style sparklers from sustainably grown estate vineyards. Take in the vineyard views from a table on the patio — you’ll feel like you’ve been transported to a French countryside chateau.
Tasting to try: Domaine Carneros’s “A Journey to Southeast Asia” pairs sparkling wines with a menu inspired by the cuisines of Vietnam, Thailand and India. It includes savory and sweet bites and four sparkling wines: Ultra Brut, Estate Brut Cuvée, Brut Rosé and Verméil Demi-Sec. $99 for a 90-minute experience.
Founded in 1862, Schramsberg is one of the oldest sparkling wine producers in California. The historic property was purchased by Jack and Jamie Davies in 1965 and is now listed as a California Historical Landmark, complete with a Victorian mansion. Shortly after buying the winery, the Davies made their first vintage of Blanc de Blancs — the first commercial use of chardonnay in a sparkling wine made in the United States.
Tasting to try: The cave tour experience at Schramsberg is educational, starting with a tour of the historic property and caves followed by an all-sparkling wine tasting, or three Schramsberg sparkling wines and three red wines from sister winery, Davies Vineyards. Cave tastings start at $85. By appointment only.
Both locals and visitors to Wine Country tout the views and wine at Artesa, where the hillside tasting room and winery overlooks 350 acres of vineyards. Opened in 1991 by Spanish winemaking family Codorníu Raventós, the winery offers estate-grown Chardonnay and Pinot Noir crafted by winemaker Paula Borgo. (“Artesa” means “handcrafted” or “artisan” in Catalan.)
Tasting to try: After snapping selfies by the winery’s impressive entrance, enjoy the classic “Taste of Artesa” pairing of Ibérico ham and wine by the modern Mediterranean tasting bar, or on the patio, which offers 360-degree views — on a clear day you can see San Francisco. $105 per person. Reservations recommended.
Midcentury-modern design and excellent wines make this one of the hottest destinations in Wine Country. The winery has been featured in a variety of lifestyle publications, including Architectural Digest, Vogue and Goop, but tastings here remain relaxed and casual, and come with great music playlists curated by winery owner Kashy Khaledi.
Tasting to try: It’s hard to go wrong with pizza and wine. The “A&D Wines + Shroomy Schmaltzy” tasting features pizza with locally foraged wild mushrooms, aged mozzarella and crème fraîche paired with three wines. Yum! $45 per person. Reservations required.
Outdoor area at Ashes & Diamonds winery in Napa. (Ashes & Diamonds)The tasting room at Ashes & Diamonds winery in Napa. (Ashes & Diamonds)
Beaulieu Vineyard
“Beau lieu” means “beautiful place” in French, which was an apt name for this Rutherford property thought the de Latour family when they bought it in the early 20th century. One of the oldest wineries in California, Beaulieu Vineyard (or simply “BV”) is a must-visit for wine lovers seeking a touch of heritage with their estate Cabernet.
Tasting to try: The reservation-only “Legacy Experience” starts with a tour of the winery followed by a tasting of a selection of reserve wines in the winery’s Legacy Room. $130 per person. Reservations recommended.
1960 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford. 800-373-5896. bvwines.com
Beringer
The first winery to have both a red and a white wine named “Wine of the Year” by Wine Spectator, Beringer has been crafting wines for nearly 150 years, making it the oldest continually operating winery in California. If that isn’t enough to convince you to visit, the gardens and the stately Victorian-era tasting rooms, housed in the Beringer family’s former home — the Rhine House — should seal the deal.
Tasting to try: The “Legacy Cave Tour” winds through the old winery and into the cave to explore the hand-carved tunnels. The tour includes a tasting of three wines. $35 per person. Reservations recommended
2000 Main St., St. Helena. 707-257-5771. beringer.com
Castello di Amorosa
It’s no surprise that some refer to Dario Sattui, a fourth generation vintner and the man behind Castello di Amorosa, as a modern-day Don Quixote. Sattui spent 15 years building this medieval-style Tuscan castle in Napa Valley as a place to showcase his wines. The result: a 107-room, eight-level, 136,000-square-foot building complete with drawbridge, secret passageways, torture chamber — and tasting rooms.
Tasting to try: The “Diamond Estate Tour” includes a guided tour of the castle and its production area, followed by a tasting of five current-release reserve and small-production wines. $75 per person. Reservations required. Adults only.
Charles Krug, an immigrant from the German state of Prussia and one of the pioneers of Napa Valley winemaking, founded this winery in St. Helena in 1861. Robert Mondavi, another winemaking legend, got his start here after he convinced his parents, Cesare and Rosa Mondavi, to purchase the historic winery in 1943. The winery has remained a Mondavi property for over 75 years and four generations.
Tasting to try: Charles Krug’s “Tour and Tasting” experience offers a taste of winemaking history and five signature, current release wines paired with a gourmet cheese and charcuterie board. $90 per person. Reservations required. Adults only.
We can thank this Calistoga winery, founded in 1882, for putting California wine on the international wine map. Yes, there once was a time when American wine was the laughingstock of France and its wine producing neighbors. But that all changed when Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay won the famous Paris Tasting. Today, the winery continues to produce delicious and accessible wines, including their legendary Chardonnay and collectible Cabernet Sauvignon.
Tasting to try: The “Montelena Estate Collection” showcases the winery’s Estate Cabernet Sauvignon by offering a comparative tasting of four vintages. Don’t worry, you will get to taste the Chardonnay, too. Don’t leave the property without exploring its beautiful Chinese garden, lake and vineyards. $125 per person. Reservations required. Adults only.
Wine lovers flock to Napa Valley for Cabernet Sauvignon, but on a first visit it is also worth seeking out Merlot. The best place to taste the resurgence of the ruby red is at Duckhorn Vineyards in St. Helena. Duckhorn Merlots have been named “wine of the year,” “Merlot of the year” and “just plain darn delicious” by a variety of publications, including Sonoma Magazine, so you don’t want to miss a taste while in Napa Valley.
Tasting to try: The unpretentious tasting room at Duckhorn is surrounded by beautiful gardens. Make a reservation on the veranda for the “Portfolio Tasting Experience” and enjoy five current-release wines: Paraduxx, Goldeneye, Migration, Decoy, Canvasback and Calera. Splurge on a cheese plate; it is a good excuse to linger. $65 per person. Reservations required. Adults only.
1000 Lodi Lane, St. Helena. 707-963-7108. duckhorn.com
Far Niente
Another Napa Valley landmark, Far Niente was founded in 1885 by John Benson, who made his money in the California gold rush. (Another fun fact: Benson’s uncle was famous American impressionist painter Winslow Homer.) The historic winery, surrounded by 13 acres of landscaped gardens, is located next to a hillside with 40,000 square feet of caves that age the winery’s award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
Tasting to try: The 90-minute “Tour and Tasting” experience boasts a sweet ending — a tasting of the winery’s lauded late-harvest wine, Dulce. Don’t miss a chance to see the oldest bottle of wine in California, an 1886 Far Niente Sweet Muscat, which the winery proudly displays. $130 per person. By appointment only.
The Bunny Foo-Foo sculpture at Hall Wines in St. Helena. (Hall Wines)
Hall Napa Valley
One of the best things about Napa Valley is the diversity of wine tasting experiences available here. One minute, you’re sipping sparkling wine in a 100-year-old wine cave; the next, you’re tasting bold red blends surrounded by contemporary art. At Hall, pair eco-friendly wines with fine art — the winery is the brainchild of Kathryn Walt Hall (philanthropist and former ambassador to Austria) and her husband, Craig.
Tasting to try: The “HALLmark Tour and Tasting” includes a tour of the innovative production facilities in St. Helena, which will impress any techie, as well as the organic gardens. Then, enjoy a seated tasting where you will nibble on cheese alongside a flight of four wines. And don’t forget to snap a selfie with the Bunny Foo-Foo sculpture outdoors. $75 per person. Reservations recommended.
401 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena. 707-967-2626. hallwines.com
Inglenook
Founded in 1879, Inglenook was the go-to wine for the American elite — including presidents — by the turn of the 20th century. Today, Inglenook wines are among the most collected in the country. The winery was purchased by filmmakers Francis Ford and Eleanor Coppola in 1975 with profits from The Godfather films. Dress up and charge your phone for pictures — the property looks like a movie set.
Tasting to try: During the “Private Library Tour and Tasting” explore the chateau and grounds, wine in hand. Then visit the caves, the vineyards and one of the oldest winemaking facilities in the country, with huge redwood barrels. End the experience with a seated tasting of library wines paired with artisan cheese. $150 per person. By appointment only.
1991 St Helena Highway, Rutherford. 707-968-1161. inglenook.com
Robert Mondavi Winery
One of Napa’s most well-known wineries has temporary downtown digs. Robert Mondavi Winery’s Arch & Tower has moved into the city’s historic Borreo building. (The space was formerly occupied by Stone Brewing Co.). Mondavi’s wine tasting experiences will take place at the downtown Napa location while the namesake winery property in Oakville undergoes a multi-year renovation.
Tasting to try: Robert Mondavi founded his namesake winery in 1966, planting Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. The “Napa Exploration” tasting introduces you to four Estates-tier wines. Snag a seat on the River Terrace and take in views of the Napa River while you sip and swirl. $65 per person. Reservations required.
This Napa Valley winery was founded in 1972 by onetime Colorado oil prospector Raymond Twomey Duncan and winemaker Justin Meyer. Their goal: to make Cabernet Sauvignon aged exclusively in American white oak. Today, Silver Oak Cellars is operated by Twomey Duncan’s sons, David and Tim Duncan, who are committed to sustainable winemaking practices and operations and continue to focus on Cabernet from Napa Valley and Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley.
Tasting to try: The “Silver Tasting and Tour” allows visitors to observe the winemaking process from a glass-enclosed cellar while sipping cab in a modern tasting room built from hand-quarried limestone. Pinot lovers will enjoy the opportunity to taste bottles from Silver Oak’s sister property, Twomey. Tastings start at $65.
Silver Oak Cellars in Oakville. (Silver Oak Cellars)Spootswoode Winery in St. Helena. (Spootswoode Winery)
Spottswoode Winery
This family-owned and operated winery is setting the standard for sustainability in Napa Valley. In 1985, Spottswoode was the first in Napa Valley to farm organically. In 2020, the estate earned biodynamic certification and became the first Napa Valley winery to earn B Corp Certification. Most recently, Spottswoode added Regenerative Organic Certification to its long list of eco-friendly accomplishments.
Tasting to try: Private “Estate Tastings” are hosted by appointment Monday through Friday. After touring the estate and learning about the winery’s farming practices, you’ll enjoy a seated tasting of current-release Spottswoode wines. $150 per person.
1902 Madrona Ave., St. Helena. 707-963-0134, spottswoode.com
Tres Sabores
This family-owned, woman-led winery produces organically farmed wines in a postcard setting. Along with vineyards, owner and winemaker Julie Johnson tends to pomegranates, Meyer lemons, olives and more. A plus: leashed dogs are welcome with advance notice.
Tasting to try: Grab a seat on the sunny patio or at a shady picnic table and sip on five current releases while watching hummingbirds in the heirloom garden, sheep “mowing” in the vineyards, and red-tailed hawks soaring above. $60 per person. A locally-sourced cheese and charcuterie platter large enough for four can be reserved for an additional $28. Reservations required.
1620 South Whitehall Lane, St. Helena. 707-967-8027, tressabores.com
A lunch plate from Robert Mondavi Winery’s Arch & Tower in downtown Napa. (Robert Mondavi Winery)
It wasn’t so long ago that many Wine Country tasting rooms began rolling out cheese plate pairings, and guests were thrilled. Then some wineries upped the amenities to charcuterie. Next, “small bites” became the norm at higher-end spots, offering little nibbles of varying fanciness to complement wine flights.
These days, if a winery wants to impress us with food pairings, they have to be on their game.
The snacks don’t have to be fussy, just interesting. At Silver Trident Winery in Yountville, for example, there’s a longtime favorite Potato Chip Extravaganza. That’s a guided, high-end “picnic” of five chips and wines where you’ll find that Symphony No. 9 Sauvignon Blanc goes well with Route 11 Sour Cream ‘n’ Chives chips, and Benevolent Dictator Pinot Noir matches with Zapp’s Cajun Dill ($65).
Or, for about five years now, the Priest Ranch tasting room in Yountville has found fans for its Bacon Experience ($85), tempting with four sumptuous, thick cuts of differently flavored pork belly with four red wines.
“It’s our most popular experience, selling out weekly,” said Tasting Room Manager Cory DeLoach. “It started out with the small, crispy breakfast bacon. But (Executive Chef) Dan (Solomon) has completely elevated that. Now we bring in an entire pork belly slab, sous vide cook it, then do a different glaze for each and finish them to order in the oven.”
I recently visited a slew of interesting Napa Valley wineries, to discover what’s new and most mouthwatering. Here’s what I’m loving right now.
Priest Ranch Winery & Tasting Room
The original Priest Ranch was established in 1869 by James Joshua Priest, a Gold Rush prospector. Today, the 1,682-acre estate is farmed with 242 acres of vineyards spanning the eastern hills of the Vaca Mountains above St. Helena.
I like to bring friends to take a tour and tasting starting at the Somerston Estate (somerstonestate.com). It’s an extraordinary experience for the spectacular wilderness beauty, and historical lore you’ll learn.
Then we head to the Yountville tasting room for the new, ultra-luxurious Caviar Experience ($125).
At Priest Ranch Winery & Tasting Room in Yountville. (Priest Ranch Winery)At Priest Ranch Winery & Tasting Room in Yountville. (Priest Ranch Winery)
This is pinkies-in-the-air stuff, as we sip a single vineyard, oak-aged Sauvignon Blanc sparkling, presented with classic Siberian reserve caviar dolloped atop tangy lemon-chive crème fraîche on a pillowy, warm blini. Next up is a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir rosé, partnered with a delicate wheat crisp layered in a curl of Cambridge House Royal smoked salmon, mascarpone, golden Kaluga caviar, a bit of preserved lemon and dill leaf.
Then chef Solomon shows his playful side, offering a housemade, nacho cheese chicharron curl capped in Siberian reserve caviar and diced chives. Surprise — I really like the chip’s salty, faux-cheesy crunch, especially matched with strawberry-crisp Brut rosé.
The finale: traditional blanc de blancs with brioche crisp spread in truffle honey fromage blanc, golden Kaluga caviar, a strip of sun dried tomato and chives.
The legendary 1966 Robert Mondavi Winery on Highway 29 in Oakville is undergoing an extensive renovation that will take several years. So the team did a natural thing — they opened a lavish new tasting room in the historic 1877 Borreo Building overlooking downtown Napa and the Napa River.
The 10,000-square-foot multi-floor structure looks like a castle from the outside, built of stone quarried from the Soda Canyon area. Inside, it’s rich with dark wood, golden-hued accents and modern, roll-up walls for open-air views.
Robert Mondavi Winery’s Arch & Tower in downtown Napa overlooks the Napa River. (Robert Mondavi Winery)
I like to indulge in The Legend Lunch ($165), a three-course, wine-paired meal from Executive Chef Jeff Mosher. Menus change seasonally and it’s a full feast — I started with local asparagus atop baby lettuce laced with salt-cured egg yolks, sauce gribiche and Meyer lemon vinaigrette. To sip: the winery’s signature floral Fumé Blanc.
Then the chef sent out a thick slab of roast Berkshire pork loin topped in mildly spicy salsa verde and framed with French green lentils, carrots, peas, favas, spring onion and radish in a splash of red wine jus. To sip: A robust red blend of all five Bordeaux varietals.
A summery strawberry shortcake was a not-too-sweet finish, gussied with slightly tart, macerated local berries and tarragon-spiced Chantilly cream. To sip: Sauvito, a Sauvignon Blanc dessert wine kissed with notes of apricot, honey and spice.
Perched high on the northern slope of Diamond Mountain, the family-owned estate has just introduced a Garden and Glass Pairing Experience, bringing a five-course dive into winery chef Josh Mitchell’s seasonal favorites ($95, in addition to Theorem’s standard $200 tasting fee). Much of the produce comes from the onsite gardens, with a centerpiece of Theorem Beef, a product that vintner-owners Kisha and Jason Itkin have been cultivating at their sister property, Theorem Ranch, in Big Timber, Montana.
Lacquered Theorem Beef Short Rib from Theorem Vineyards in Calistoga. (Briana Marie Photography)Spicy fried chicken slider from Theorem Vineyards in Calistoga. (Briana Marie Photography)
Plan for a hearty meal. A few highlights I enjoyed included a spicy fried chicken slider with pickled slaw and fermented spicy aioli on a housemade Hawaiian brioche bun (alongside Theorem’s Moon Mountain Sauvignon Blanc); and lacquered beef short rib with crispy shallots, carrots and Hawk’s Prey Cabernet demi-glace (alongside Theorem’s Hawk’s Prey Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon).
Just debuted from Jean-Charles Boisset and his Boisset Collection, this over-the-top destination wows as a collection of historic rail depot and train cars transformed into fantastic shops, wine and spirit salons, tasting rooms, restaurants and beer garden.
Pick your sipping place from nearly a dozen salons and bars. That might be the Distillery Bar brimming with signature malted barley whiskeys, rye whiskeys, gin, brandies, vodka and rum, crafted in Boisset wines, port or sherry casks ($75 to $300 a bottle). Or it might be the JCB Parlor Car, beckoning with Boisset French Champagne ($13-$150).
Then choose your food. At the Distillery Bar you can dig into comfort dishes, including a grass-fed beef burger topped with cheddar and brown butter mayo ($21) with optional bacon ($4) and flavor-bomb bone marrow ($8). At the Parlor Car, the eats are elevated, for the luxuries I adore like raw or grilled oysters and clams ($27-$110), a caviar flight ($210, and an exquisite pizza, the crispy crust mantled in lemon crème fraîche, smoked salmon and caviar ($51).
Local oysters paired with Champagne at the JCB Parlor Car at the Calistoga Depot in Calistoga, Monday, May 13, 2024. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)The decor featuring Mexican ceramic artwork and tiles at Casa Obsidiana at the Calistoga Depot in Calistoga, Monday, May 13, 2024. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
St. Clair Brown
Winemaker/brewmaster Elaine St. Clair and President Laina Brown just celebrated their 10th anniversary, but every month, there’s something new at their winery, nanobrewery, and culinary garden in Napa’s Rail Arts District (just 4 miles from their estate vineyards in Coombsville).
Wine tastings ($60-$125), beer flights ($30) and by-the-glass pourings are held in a darling greenhouse nestled in the organic garden and fruit orchard. You can also order from a delightful garden-to-table food menu that rivals a restaurant. I really appreciate that guests can now get zero-proof garden cocktail tastings, too ($30).
Your server will suggest wine and beer pairings for nibbles like roasted almonds tossed with rosemary, lemon zest and lemon infused organic olive oil ($6). Or more filling fare like rustic pork rillette served with sel gris flatbread crackers, and crab apples pickled in a symphony of cinnamon, clove, cardamom, ginger and Rustic Bakery olive oil ($24).
Condé Nast tallied 575,048 votes cast in its 37th annual Readers’ Choice Awards survey, released Oct. 1. Voters ranked hotels around the globe based on their design, food and immersive experiences.
This is the fifth readers’ choice award since 2017 for The Lodge at Bodega Bay — which also ranked No. 1 on Condé Nast’s top 20 hotels in Northern California. The hotel was chiefly noted for its laid-back vibe, proximity to beaches and vineyards, and breathtaking sunset views of the Pacific Ocean.
The Captain’s Quarters suite at The Lodge at Bodega Bay. (Travis Watts/The Lodge at Bodega Bay)A fire pit with a cheese and charcuterie board at The Lodge at Bodega Bay. (Travis Watts/The Lodge at Bodega Bay)
The Accommodations
The waterfront lodge features 83 cream and blue-accented guest rooms that offer a modern nautical feel. Rhode Island-based design firm Superette Studio recently completed guest room interior renovations for the property. Most rooms include a fireplace, private balcony or patio, in-room jacuzzi, Nespresso coffee maker, sound machine and 42-inch LCD TV.
Other hotel amenities include a spa, sauna, heated pool, infinity edge hot tub, bocce ball court and outdoor fire pits. The lodge also has two restaurants: the upscale Drakes Sonoma Coast and the cozy-casual Drakes Fireside Lounge.
Drakes Sonoma Coast focuses on local, seasonal produce and sustainably caught seafood. The menu includes the likes of smoked salmon benedict, Tomales Bay manila clams, mussel cacio e pepe and oven-roasted black cod. Drakes Fireside Lounge boasts oceanfront views with its outdoor fire pit seating, perfect for sunset drinks and nibbles. The bar fare includes chilled and baked oysters, cheeseburgers, charcuterie boards with Valley Ford cheeses, Hamachi crudo and other snacks.
The Lodge at Bodega Bay also offers complimentary fare for its guests. Guests can roast marshmallows and enjoy s’mores from 7-9 p.m. every Sunday and Monday in the lobby. Additionally, guests can taste wines and bites during the wine receptions from 3-5 p.m. on Thursday, Friday and Saturday in the den by the lobby.
Although it’s located right off of Highway 29 in St. Helena, Harvest Inn feels like you’ve discovered a secret stretch of Napa Valley. The grounds are lush, peaceful and covered with towering redwoods. (Courtesy of Harvest Inn)
There’s no getting around it, a Napa Valley getaway adds up quickly. But if you do a little research and choose wisely, you can still find stylish hotels that won’t break the bank. And if you plan your stay during the week or during the quieter winter months, your hard earned dollars will go even farther. To help jumpstart your getaway planning, we’ve put together a list of our favorite budget-friendly Napa Valley hotels.
Harvest Inn
Although it’s located right off of Highway 29 in St. Helena, Harvest Inn feels like you’ve discovered a secret stretch of Napa Valley. Stretching eight acres and surrounded by hundreds of towering redwoods, a peaceful calm prevails at here; many rooms and suites boast views of vineyards and the Mayacamas Mountains.
The resort pool and hot tub are family-friendly, but there is a second, adults-only pool and hot tub for those seeking a quieter experience. The pools are heated to 80 degrees year round. Saturday mornings, May through early November, guests can enjoy complimentary meditation and yoga steps away from the vineyards.
Harvest Table, the property’s onsite restaurant, is open daily for dinner, and weekdays for breakfast. Brunch is offered Saturday and Sunday.
1 Main St., St. Helena, 707-963-9463, harvestinn.com. Rates from $259.
Stretching eight acres and surrounded by hundreds of towering redwoods, a peaceful calm prevails at Harvest Inn; many rooms and suites boast views of vineyards and the Mayacamas Mountains. (Courtesy of Harvest Inn)
Archer Hotel Napa
Location, location, location. Set in the heart of downtown Napa, Archer Hotel allows you to park your car and then forget about it. Seemingly countless wine tasting rooms, restaurants and shops are located just steps away.
Be sure to pay a visit to the sixth-floor rooftop. The sundeck features a six-inch deep wading pool with colorful lounge chairs ideal for soaking up vitamin D and one-of-a-kind Napa views. Neighboring Sky & Vine rooftop bar pairs the panoramas with fire pits, craft cocktails and bites.
And, because we love a Sonoma County connection, Healdsburg’s own celebrity chef Charlie Palmer has his Charlie Palmer Steak restaurant in the Archer lobby.
The rooftop wading pool at Archer Hotel Napa. (Courtesy of Archer Hotel)
Silverado Resort
Originally constructed as a luxe private estate, Silverado Resort boasts a fancy exterior vibe, but all of its 345 condo-style rooms feature full kitchens, which can really help you stretch your travel budget. The resort is also amenity rich — along with two PGA championship golf courses, there’s nine tennis courts, three bocce and pickleball courts, as well as a trio of swimming pools. Add the spa, fitness center and Grill restaurant to the list of perks, and you might think twice about leaving the property during your stay.
1600 Atlas Peak Road, Napa, 800-532-0500, silveradoresort.com, rates from $299.
Calistoga Inn Restaurant & Brewery
Set on Calistoga’s main drag, Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga Inn Restaurant & Brewery boasts 17 rooms and a private cottage. Rooms offer queen beds and have a sink, but shared restrooms and showers are located at the end of the hall.
After a busy day of wine tasting, you can grab a beer at onsite Napa Valley Brewing Company, or go for a stroll through downtown Calistoga. One of our favorite hikes, Oat Hill Mine Trail, follows an old stagecoach route for more than eight miles. Great views are waiting about a half-mile from the trailhead just off the Silverado Trail.
1250 Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga, 707-942-4101, calistogainn.com. Rates from $169.
Calistoga Motor Lodge and Spa
This revamped roadside motel embraces its beginnings. In the retro-inspired camper rooms you’ll find décor including hula hoops, cork boards and quirky art. Deluxe Rooms offer an entirely different, elevated vibe, and in some cases, views of the Mayacamas Mountains.
The hotel’s three geothermal pools make it easy to linger longer and the onsite Moonacre Spa & Bath offers massages, facials, and a twist on the traditional Calistoga mud bath. Those looking to stay active can check out a complimentary cruiser bike for up to two hours. Onsite restaurant Fleetwood serves up woodfired dishes in a setting.
The Calistoga Motor Lodge, a 1940s roadside motel, has been transformed into a nostalgic ode to the American road trip of your childhood. (Courtesy of Calistoga Motor Lodge)Spend your downtime floating in the lodge’s three geothermal pools, each at varying temperatures, or relax in the sun in a hammock or on a day bed. (Courtesy of Calistoga Motor Lodge)
Napa Valley Railway Inn
It’s a dream come true for train enthusiasts and anyone watching their budget. Six railcars and three cabooses are permanently parked on the original tracks of the Napa Valley Railroad Company. One caboose is home to The Model Bakery’s Yountville location, but the remaining train cars are outfitted with everything you’ll need to spend the night.
But perhaps the biggest perk of a stay here is the primo location. If you call Napa Valley Railway Inn your home away from home, you’ll be within walking distance of some of Yountville’s best offerings. Along with countless wine tasting rooms, shops and restaurants, save time to enjoy the Yountville Art Walk, comprised of more than 35 outdoor sculptures. You can’t shuffle through town without seeing many of the pieces.
Reportedly the oldest hotel in Napa Valley, Maison Fleurie was built in 1873 as the Magnolia Hotel. Back in the day, travelers might have come for the saloon and rumored bordello, but today’s modern travelers love the property’s central Yountville location. The inn’s lavish gardens are the inspiration for its name. Maison Fleurie means “flowering house” in French.
As part of the Four Sisters Inn collection, every stay includes a daily afternoon wine and cheese hour, as well as a full breakfast. Along with complimentary bicycles for guests interested in rolling through Yountville, Maison Fleurie features a pool and hot tub. The pool is heated from May until October, and is also available for use by guests of its nearby sister property, Lavender.
Maison Fleurie offers 13 guestrooms, while Lavender is a bit more intimate, with just nine guestrooms.
One of the eight destinations is Ridgewood Ranch, located on 5,000 acres of rolling hills, creeks and forests in Willits. The current owner of the property is Christ’s Church of The Golden Rule, formerly known as the cult Mankind United.
Arthur Bell founded the cult during the Depression. Bell — a swindler, especially in real estate — believed the world was under the control of “Hidden Rulers” and “Money Changers” determined to make a “worldwide slave state,” according to the Fodorś article.
The Gateway to Willits on Highway 20 and business Highway 101, Friday, Jan. 11, 2019. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Bell convinced many that the only way to avoid this fate was to enter into his cult, Mankind United. In order to join, followers had to give Bell half their possessions and work long hours for low pay in the cult’s hotels, restaurants and ranches throughout the state.
Bell handed over leadership of the cult in 1951 as a result of legal battles and bad press.
Although the cult unraveled, about 100 people stayed and settled on Ridgewood Ranch. The community now “operates a mobile home park, runs (approximately) 200 head of cattle and works with conservation groups like Mendocino Land Trust,” the article stated.
Ridgewood Ranch was also where famous racehorse Seabiscuit died of a heart attack in May of 1947, according to a Press Democrat article from May 21, 2020.
That wasn’t the only Northern California destination listed in the article. Lodge at Marconi, located in West Marin, was a remote location for the Church of Synanon from 1964 to 1980.
Aerial photo of Lodge at Marconi. (Lodge at Marconi)
According to the Fodorś article, the Church of Synanon has a twisted history. Mickel Jollet, frontman of indie rock group The Airborne Toxic Event, lived on the property as a child. He recounted in his memoir, Hollywood Park, “how children at the Tomales Bay Synanon were taken from their parents at six months old and raised by other cult members in a type of orphanage.”
The Point Reyes Light newspaper “helped expose Synanon as a dangerous cult, winning the paper a Pulitzer Prize in 1979,” the article stated.
Two of the eight destinations listed are in Northern California, but the rest were from the Los Angeles area. These included: Hotel Casa Del Mar, Santa Monica; Al Cove Café & Bakery, Los Feliz; Peace Awareness Labyrinth & Gardens, West Adams; Beachwood Canyon Neighborhood, Los Angeles; Santa Susana Knolls Neighborhood, Ventura County; and Mount Baldy, San Bernardino and Los Angeles counties.
