Welcome to Cannabis Country: How the Green Rush Will Reshape the North Coast Economy

Following the collapse of the North Coast timber industry, the isolated Mattole River Valley in Humboldt County became a center for marijuana cultivation that is now key to its economy. (Kent Porter

The Mattole Valley is almost heartbreaking in its beauty, a green and fertile vale along the pristine Mattole River, buttressed by the steep, dark and forested mountains of the King Range.

Following the collapse of the North Coast timber industry, the isolated Mattole River Valley in Humboldt County became a center for marijuana cultivation that is now key to its economy. (Kent Porter
Following the collapse of the North Coast timber industry, the isolated Mattole River Valley in Humboldt County became a center for marijuana cultivation that is now key to its economy. (Kent Porter

It is a long, arduous drive to the valley from the Highway 101 exit between the towns of Garberville and Rio Dell, the road narrow, potholed and punctuated by abrupt hairpin turns. The approach from the north, reached by driving south from Eureka and Ferndale, is even longer and more circuitous.

Isolation is perhaps the most salient characteristic of life in this part of Humboldt County, long shrouding the marijuana cultivation that is the engine of the regional economy. It has been that way for a generation, ever since the timber industry collapsed and Humboldt emerged — along with Mendocino and Trinity counties — as the notorious Emerald Triangle, the largest cannabis growing region in America.

When California voted in November to legalize recreational pot use, the industry stepped from the shadows with purpose. Its promise of short-term profit and long-term growth potential has triggered a “Green Rush” that will reshape the North Coast economy and upend the fortunes of growers.

Jessica Rockenbach and her partner, Kris Schuster, came to the Mattole Valley a decade ago and worked as tenant cannabis farmers. They saved their money, maintaining a frugal lifestyle that ultimately allowed them to buy a 60-acre parcel of gently rolling hillside land. It is here, in the heart of the Emerald Triangle, where the couple plan to realize their long-held dream. They’ll build a home, tend fruit trees, hike the woods, and fish for steelhead in the Mattole River. They are determined to spend their lives in this chosen place.

“It’s not going to be just a cannabis operation,” says Schuster. “That’s going to be a very small part of it, actually. We’re going to produce a broad range of organically grown crops. There’s an old orchard on the place, and we’re rehabilitating it. We plan to have a cidery. First and foremost, we see ourselves as stewards of this very special place.”

For years and for obvious reasons, Rockenbach and Schuster have lived and worked on the periphery of civil society. Cannabis cultivation existed in a legal gray area at best, pinned between a state that sanctioned medical pot 20 years ago and the federal government, which still considers the drug illegal in all cases. Though enforcement by government agents has been spotty in the Mattole Valley during the past decade, it was an omnipresent threat. The couple never knew if or when the black helicopters would descend, disgorging heavily armed officers in tactical gear intent on arresting them and confiscating their plants.

But that’s all changed through the combination of two landmark state laws. The first was passed by the Legislature and signed by Gov. Jerry Brown last year to regulate and tax medical cannabis. Then the second — Proposition 64, approved in November — legalized the recreational use of cannabis by adults.

Jessica Rockenbach and her partner, Kris Schuster, came to the valley as tenant cannabis farmers but plan to grow a range of crops, including marijuana, on a 60-acre parcel they bought. (Kent Porter)
Jessica Rockenbach and her partner, Kris Schuster, came to the valley as tenant cannabis farmers but plan to grow a range of crops, including marijuana, on a 60-acre parcel they bought. (Kent Porter)

For thousands of small pot growers like Rockenbach and Schuster — there are an estimated 3,000 alone in Sonoma County, gateway to the Emerald Triangle — California now comprises a bonafide business landscape free of the legal clouds that previously loomed over the state’s multibillion dollar pot industry. That sanctioned market is expected to quickly expand. By 2020, legal medical and recreational pot will generate $22 billion in economic activity — equivalent to two-thirds of the state’s retail wine sales — according to ArcView Market Research, an Oakland-based firm that studies the cannabis industry.

With such rich prospects for growth, a bevy of big investors based in New York, Chicago, Seattle and the Bay Area are hurrying to cash in on the new cannabis economy.

The contrast between such heavy money and Rockenbach and Schuster’s operation is stark, and the financial stakes for the couple are clear. Their vehicle is a battered Toyota 4×4 truck. They’re refurbishing an old sheet metal shack on their property for short-term living quarters. They plan to fell and mill some of the conifers on their land to build their home. With a go-ahead from state and county regulators, the duo will grow up to 15,000 square feet of marijuana in 2017 — the first crop under the new rules for their ultra-high-end enterprise, terravida farms.

While the couple’s plans are moderately ambitious by Mattole Valley standards, they’re nothing compared to those of the big players moving in. Under Proposition 64, no limits will be imposed on vertical integration, meaning a few huge operators could corner much if not most of the market. Opponents of Proposition 64 are thus haunted by the specter of gigantic Central Valley pot farms linked with wholesale and retail ventures, all of it pouring profits into the coffers of a corporate few at the direct expense of the existing small farmers and processors of Cannabis Country.

“Candidly, the future for many current growers isn’t bright,” said Joe Rogoway, a Santa Rosa attorney specializing in cannabis issues. “The new marketplace requires a degree of capitalization and sophistication that inevitably will leave people behind. It’s capitalism. There will be winners and losers.”

The transformation is already opening new agricultural and industrial sectors that are likely to have profound and far-ranging impacts on the state’s economy, environment and culture. Farflung communities like Garberville in Humboldt County that have flourished in the cannabis trade because of their isolation may find themselves edged out by places like Santa Rosa, with better access to capital, urban populations and a skilled, stable workforce.

“Most of California’s cannabis is produced on the North Coast,” said Tawnie Logan, the executive director of the Sonoma County Growers Alliance. “Mendocino, Humboldt and Trinity counties are the breadbasket. Then it moves south to major markets in the Bay Area and Los Angeles. Highway 101 handles a very large percentage of that traffic, and Santa Rosa is the logical capture point. We can handle not only growing, but processing and distribution. And I think we’re heading that way.”

In the Mattole Valley, Schuster and Rockenbach acknowledge the uncertainty they face. “We’re going to just have to wait and see,” Rockenbach said. “Frankly, we don’t know how it’s all going to play out, or what it’ll mean for us in the long run. Before, all we had to be was farmers. Now we have to be marketers, brand experts, designers, processing experts, and even lawyers to a degree. We’re dealing with issues we never faced before.”

We’re only going to have one chance to get this right, and we need to proceed carefully.” Tawnie Logan, left, Sonoma County Growers Alliance. (Alvin Jornada)
We’re only going to have one chance to get this right, and we need to proceed carefully,” Tawnie Logan, Sonoma County Growers Alliance. (Alvin Jornada)

The mood inside the old, ramshackle house that serves as the studio of radio station KMUD was not celebratory on election night. The FM station is based in Redway, a seven- minute drive north and west along the Eel River from Garberville, for decades a gritty redoubt of the region’s renegade pot economy. KMUD serves as a main information and entertainment source here, with hosts overseeing everything from lengthy Grateful Dead retrospectives to call-in shows on local politics. And on the evening of Nov. 8, the hosts and most of the callers were in shock.

By 10 p.m., Donald Trump had built up a lead in electoral votes that seemed certain to make him the next president of the United States, a result so unforeseen in this ultraliberal swath of the state that it had largely sidelined the evening’s other historic result — California voters’ overwhelming decision to legalize recreational pot.

“Where’s the bourbon? Did anybody bring bourbon?” howled one stunned KMUD staffer.

The three counties that form the Emerald Triangle have long existed as a promised land for the cultivation of high-grade bud. Marijuana is the economic foundation here, and Emerald Triangle cannabis is considered the ne plus ultra of the trade. Much of it is trafficked out of state and under Proposition 64, the market will only swell, possibly tripling the national trade in legal cannabis products. Twenty-six states now allow some mode of marijuana consumption, and in the November election, Massachusetts and Nevada followed California in sanctioning recreational use. Colorado, Washington and Oregon were first among the states to greenlight recreational pot use.

In the Emerald Triangle, thousands of small growers, many of them multigenerational cannabis families, serve as the backbone of the economy. And their general outlook explains why the reaction at KMUD to Proposition 64’s election night approval was muted at best. The law is widely seen as a threat as much as an opportunity, said Isabella Vanderheiden, one of the station’s two co-news directors. North Coast growers consider themselves producers of an artisanal product, said Vanderheiden, and Proposition 64 wasn’t necessarily written with their interests in mind.

“They’re small farmers, they’re independent, representatives of a unique culture,” Vanderheiden said. “Proposition 64 could easily change all that, shift the cannabis economy to corporate growers, distributors and processors. The people here feel they have a lot to lose.”

Proposition 64 will allow growers to emerge from the black market into a legal and regulated economy. That process had already begun with last year’s passage of the Medical Cannabis Regulation and Safety Act (MCRSA), which established detailed regulations for the expanded production, distribution and processing of medical marijuana. Under the still-evolving protocols of the MCRSA, farmers — like Rockenbach and Schuster — who bring their operations into compliance can grow their product openly and sell it to distributors for a fair and stable price.

But for growers, that takes money, — often hefty amounts — to build proper water systems, shore up roads, roll out safeguards for workers, curb erosion, and comply with rules for pesticide use and organic certification.

“They’ve also been adjusting to the reality of taxes,” said Sydney Morrone, a KMUD news director. “Under the MCRSA, substantial taxes can be imposed by the counties. But they also have to deal with income taxes. For decades, people haven’t been paying direct state or federal income taxes on their cannabis. They may pay taxes indirectly — many of the businesses here were started and are supported by cannabis money. But they haven’t paid on their crops. Now that’s changing. If your operation is compliant, you will pay income takes.”

Similar government regulation and taxation will occur under Proposition 64, meaning rules for medical and recreational pot will exist on twin tracks for the foreseeable future.

The result is certain to trigger a fundamental economic and cultural shift in the marijuana industry, and especially in the Emerald Triangle, where money generated by the off-books pot trade supports Main Street businesses and nonprofit groups and has even underwritten political campaigns.

On the streets of Garberville in Humboldt County, young men from Spain, Argentina and Honduras pass the time as they look for work harvesting marijuana. (Kent Porter)
On the streets of Garberville in Humboldt County, young men from Spain, Argentina and Honduras pass the time as they look for work harvesting marijuana. (Kent Porter)

In Garberville, businesses along the main drag have long functioned, purposely or not, as cash laundromats for the marijuana economy.

The town of fewer than 1,000 full-time residents bears the marks of a love-hate relationship with the pot culture and workforce that sustains it. The community has become an international magnet for the seasonal workers or “trimmigrants” who flock to the Emerald Triangle each harvest season, looking for employment processing dried flowers. Others are simply here to smoke as much dope as possible and squat on the street with newfound friends, playing guitars, often poorly. They are tolerated, but barely. A sign on the window of the Blue Room Lounge features a marijuana leaf in a circle and a slash mark through it with the words, “No Work Here — Move On,” and another sign on the door declares, “Absolutely No Patchouli.”

“The people who live here, they want to have their cake and eat it too,” said a man in his 40s with slicked-back hair who identified himself as Richard. He was standing on the street with an acquaintance, another longtime Humboldt County resident who was dressed in a trench coat, shirt and tie, holding up a copy of The Watchtower.

“They created this situation, but then they get upset with all the homeless kids here, sucking off society,” said Richard. “And at this point, it’s too late to change. And that has a lot of people worried, because there’s nothing else. Also, no one knows what full legalization will bring.”

“It [marijuana] does support this county, that’s a fact,” said the Jehovah’s Witness, who declined to give his name. “I’ve lived here for 40 years. Several of the businesses on this street are owned by one guy, a grower, a millionaire. A lot of the retired people here, they grow some plants to make ends meet.”

But there are no guarantees the storefronts will remain open once cannabis is regulated and taxed, so residents and merchants here and throughout the Emerald Triangle find themselves in an economic limbo.

“The California cannabis industry consists of 60,000 independent business people,” said Hezekiah Allen, executive director of the California Growers Association, which lobbies on behalf of marijuana cultivators. “About 50,000 are growers and 10,000 are retailers, manufacturers or own support enterprises. We provide well-paying jobs in small communities. But some folks want massive wealth. They look on us as an inefficient industry that needs to be captured.” Recent history provides a cautionary tale for the cannabis industry, Allen said.

“We saw the mindset that’s playing out now with another North Coast resource-based industry. Pacific Lumber was a sustainablyoperated redwood company. Then Charles Hurwitz took it over, determined to liquidate the resource. We’re still suffering the effects of that tragedy. Rural communities have a hard time asserting themselves under these kinds of pressures. Cannabis provides California with the opportunity to create a multibillion dollar sustainable marketplace. But we have to be careful about our choices — industrial agriculture and sustainable agriculture are mutually exclusive.”

Dona Frank opened one of Sonoma County’s first medical marijuana dispensaries and now runs multiple dispensaries stretching from Oakland to Hopland. (John Burgess)
Dona Frank opened one of Sonoma County’s first medical marijuana dispensaries and now runs multiple dispensaries stretching from Oakland to Hopland. (John Burgess)

If Garberville is Old Cannabis, a rural North Coast community that always has relied on natural resources — first timber, now pot — to survive, then Santa Rosa is emerging as the New Cannabis hub: a sizable, economically diversified, strategically located city, with a robust private sector, abundant capital, good infrastructure and skilled workforce.

Sonoma County already supports about 9,000 marijuana-associated businesses, according to the New York Times, and with Proposition 64, that figure inevitably will grow.

Those with an early foothold include entrepreneur Dona Frank, who opened one of the county’s first dispensaries, OrganicCann, and now runs a veritable empire of cannabis-associated enterprises, including multiple dispensaries stretching from Oakland to Hopland and a distribution company that offers members a wide choice of exotic marijuana strains from Emerald Triangle growers. She has built a loyal customer base through direct marketing, including a quarterly community-supported agriculture box, a farmers market and collaboration on product lines with celebrities ranging from international hip-hop artists to porn stars.

“I have been following the winery model for eight or nine years,” Frank told The Press Democrat a week before the vote on Proposition 64, which she supported.

Others looking to set up shop include Privateer Holdings, a Seattle private equity firm with principals that include Silicon Valley venture capital superstar Peter Thiele. It picked Santa Rosa as the headquarters for its expansion into California’s cannabis market, with plans, approved by the city, to manufacture, process and distribute a line of bud varieties, hemp-oil body-care products and smoking materials dubbed Marley Natural.

Another figure drawing notice is Ted Simpkins, the founder of Sonoma County’s Lancaster Estate winery and the former CEO of Southern Wine & Spirits, the nation’s largest wine and liquor distributor. Simpkins, who owns a home off Chalk Hill Road in Healdsburg, recently established River Collective, a cannabis distribution firm based in Sacramento.

Simpkins has played an active role behind the scenes in shaping the distribution plan favored by the state’s taxing authorities under last year’s medical marijuana law. According to a report by the Los Angeles Times, he pushed successfully for the model used in the alcohol industry, with growers dependent on distributors to sell their product. Many veteran North Coast growers opposed the policy, concerned that it will strip them of both autonomy and revenues.

“The larger growers in particular didn’t like the distribution clause,” said Allen of the California Growers Association. “They feel they can do better on their own.”

Simpkins did not respond to interview requests. But Rockenbach and Schuster are among those who favor his involvement, saying they’re eager to work with partners, especially savvy and well-funded distributors who can help them gain a foothold in the increasingly competitive market.

“People like Ted can really help us develop our brands, establish market share, and provide growers with stable and fair prices,” said Rockenbach. “As it stands, we’re completely at the mercy of the [medical marijuana] dispensaries. They exploit growers as a matter of course. We recently were guaranteed a price of $1,500 for some of our product. It was top-grade, organic flowers produced under best environmental practices. But when we delivered, we were told we’d only get $1,000 a pound. When we complained, the owner told us that he had ‘10 Mexicans’ a day coming in, offering to sell at $500 a pound, so take it or leave it.”

Like many cannabis farmers, Rockenbach and Schuster are leery of Proposition 64, worried that it will allow big players to consolidate all sectors of the trade — cultivation, processing, transportation, secondary product manufacturing and retail sales — driving out all smaller stakeholders. They’re also worried about something else: the incoming Trump administration.

Some of Trump’s cabinet selections are eliciting particularly sharp fears on the North Coast. Alabama Sen. Jeff Sessions, Trump’s nominee for attorney general, is deeply problematic for legalized cannabis advocates. During a Senate hearing earlier this year, Sessions called cannabis “a very real danger,” and declared that it shouldn’t be legalized.

“The day before the election we were optimistic, certain that we’d have no major problems from the federal government,” said Schuster. “Now? We just don’t know. We don’t know what Trump will do. But we’ve already committed. We filed all the paperwork. We’ve on the record. So we can only move forward.”

But Rogoway, for his part, remains moderately optimistic about Trump.

“He’s indicated he wants to leave it to the states, and he has made some supportive comments about medical marijuana,” said Rogoway. “Further, [Silicon Valley venture capitalist] Peter Thiele has Trump’s ear, and he’s a principle in Privateer Holdings, one of the biggest cannabis hedge funds. So I don’t anticipate a major disruption from the federal side. We are advising our clients to stay calm, don’t panic and proceed with compliance.”

“J,” a worker at OrganiCann, prepares young mariuana plants at the company’s facility in Santa Rosa. (Beth Schlanker)
“J,” a worker at OrganiCann, prepares young mariuana plants at the company’s facility in Santa Rosa. (Beth Schlanker)

They were just a snapshot in time, but the satellite images of several North Coast watersheds beamed back to state water and wildlife scientists in 2012 shocked even veteran regulators of the cannabis trade.

Hundreds of marijuana farms had popped up in places they had never been, or never been detected. In graphics produced from the satellite data, they showed up as dots — red for outdoor gardens, green for greenhouses — and in places they covered the blue lines demarcating streams for miles.

The records were evidence of a sharp increase in pot cultivation that scientists said poses a serious threat to imperiled salmon and steelhead runs, the North Coast’s original, natural bounty. In the teeth of California’s historic drought, water consumption by pot farms could effectively stanch the seasonal flow of many small creeks in the region, leaving young fish stranded.

“Essentially, marijuana can consume all the water. Every bit of it,” Scott Bauer, a state Fish and Wildlife senior scientist, told The Press Democrat at the time.

Stormer Feiler, a State Water Quality Control Board environmental scientist who participated in the same multiagency study, notes that any citizen can get a sense of the problem from a computer or smartphone.

“Just go on Google Earth and look at, say, southern Trinity County,” Feiler said. “It’s a patchwork of marijuana plots. We estimate there may be 50,000 grow sites in California. We’re seeing massive erosion from illegally graded roads. We’re seeing streams drying up and salmon and steelhead dying. The watershed impacts from marijuana cultivation are huge. We’re doing what we can, and along with other state and federal agencies and the counties, we’ll enforce the new regulations. But we all have limited staff. Right now, (the Water Board) is dealing with about 800 cultivation permits for the North Coast, and that number is only going to grow. So our job is going to stay pretty challenging for a while.”

Increasingly, both regulators and compliant farmers agree on the necessity of reining in the guerrilla cultivators growing on public land or operating irresponsibly on private land. Such enterprises are widely blamed for the massive environmental impacts associated with the industry.

Mattole Valley residents have long been terrorized by federal and state agents swooping in on helicopters to raid pot farms, said Kris Schuster, but landed growers may welcome such operations on neighboring public lands as private farms move toward compliance.

“No one who is a legitimate member of our community likes the [guerrilla] growers,” Schuster said. “Some of them are armed. They contaminate our water supplies and kill our wildlife. We’ll be glad when they’re gone.”

But it’s not going to be easy to bring the farmers yearning to be legal into environmental compliance, let alone the growers who are determined to remain outlaws. There aren’t enough regulators, and there are far too many pot plots.

Furthermore, a legal market is unlikely to end certain malignant issues associated with the cannabis trade. Like violence. That’s the main concern of Sonoma County Sheriff Steve Freitas, who observed the North Coast has witnessed some particularly horrendous cannabis-associated crimes in recent years.

“A grower just was murdered near Willits,” said Freitas, a bald, powerfully built man of middle height who assays the world with the flat, unwavering gaze of the veteran lawman. “In October, there was a double murder in Sebastopol that was marijuana related. And we had a triple murder near Forestville in 2013 when a marijuana deal went bad.”

Such incidents can be expected, said Freitas, as long as marijuana is legal in some states and illegal in others. The states where cannabis is illegal function as a kind of regulatory low pressure area, drawing in large quantities of high-grade weed from the legal states.

“In basic terms, people can get more money for marijuana in areas where it remains illegal, so a lot of legally produced marijuana inevitably will find its way to illegal markets,” Freitas said. “That brings bad guys here to Sonoma County and the North Coast, where it’s produced. All of the murder cases I just cited involved perpetrators from out-of-state. And I don’t think that’s going to change unless or until we see marijuana legalized and regulated at the federal level.”

Sonoma County Sheriff Sonoma County Sheriff Steve Freitas, right, and Assistant Sheriff Robert Giordano. (Christopher Chung)
Sonoma County Sheriff Sonoma County Sheriff Steve Freitas, right, and Assistant Sheriff Robert Giordano. (Christopher Chung)

The conceit that cannabis use is universally benign also is faulty, said Robert Giordano, a Sonoma County assistant sheriff who recently traveled to Colorado to assess the impacts of recreational cannabis legalization in that state. Giordano said the Colorado state poison control center received 400 calls on marijuana-induced psychosis since pot was declared legal, a sobering figure considering the agency fielded no such calls for the five years preceding legalization.

“The main problem is the edible products, and the extracts like ‘wax’ and ‘shatter,’” said Giordano. “It’s hard to control the doses with edibles and the extracts are astronomically high in THC. You can get an extremely large dose with a puff or two, much, much more than you could by smoking dried flowers.”

Still, Proposition 64 is now state law, and Freitas confirms he and his fellow officers will uphold it.

“I think this department will back totally away from enforcement in regard to marijuana” as long as other crimes are not involved, said Freitas. “Our role will be more administrative — making sure regulations are implemented properly, that permits are in order, and so forth.”

Even the legislators who helped reform some of California’s cannabis laws are less than enthusiastic about Proposition 64.

“Smaller growers are very concerned about the license category that allows grows of unlimited size in five years,” said Assemblyman Jim Wood (D-Healdsburg), a co-author of the MCRSA. “When we crafted the MCRSA, we adopted measures to ensure that larger players couldn’t grab multiple licenses, and get bigger and bigger. Proposition 64 just kind of throws that out the window.”

But like Freitas, Wood has adjusted to the consequences of Nov. 8.

“I didn’t support Proposition 64, but it’s now up to the Legislature and proponents to ensure that the intent of the proposition is [upheld],” he said. “There will be challenges and unintended consequences, so it’s really important that we all work together to solve those issues as they [develop].”

kp0617_Bud

Among cannabis cultivators, Jennifer Bruce’s stance on Proposition 64 puts her in the clear minority. She supported the ballot initiative. She believes medical marijuana isn’t sufficient to assure a stable cannabis trade, one that’s large enough to support California’s 50,000 cultivators. To survive, she says, small farmers must get behind a regulated recreational market.

“Is [Proposition 64] perfect? No,” said Bruce, who has been cultivating cannabis for about 20 years in Arcata, on the Humboldt Coast. “But it’s at least a start, and it gives people an opportunity to become part of a new industry in new ways.”

Bruce said she “still grows some flowers,” but she is shifting her focus from smokables to edibles. Her appetizing and decidedly psychoactive treats took two first-place prizes at the 2016 Hempcon, which bills itself as the nation’s largest marijuana convention-cumfestival. She has invested heavily in equipment to produce and package her goodies — marketed under the brand name Sarkara —and is entertaining offers from venture capitalists.

“I’m a single mother, so it’s a way for me to ensure a secure future for my family,” said Bruce, “but I support Proposition 64 for reasons other than personal opportunity. I know most people up here oppose [it] because they want to maintain exclusivity, which they think helps maintain decent prices. There’s something to that. But this is also a social justice issue. I want to be able to provide good living wages for the people who work for me, and I can only do that with a thriving legal business. And people still go to jail and prison for cannabis, especially people of color. The only way we’re going to really stop incarceration is with a fully legal marketplace.”

While some aspects of Proposition 64 kicked in immediately after passage — it is now legal for adults to possess an ounce of dried flowers or eight grams of concentrate and grow up to six plants — recreational cannabis outlets won’t appear until at least 2018. But it’s all coming: ambitious indoor and outdoor grows, certainly, but also edibles and extract processors, perhaps even bud pubs and organized tours of Cannabis Country. And it’s not just a matter of psychoactive cannabis. Hemp — low-THC cannabis variants that provide superb textile fiber and valuable seed oil — also has tremendous commercial potential, said Craig Litwin, a cannabis industry consultant and former Sebastopol mayor.

“It yields high-quality cloth and paper, the seed can be used for food oil and animal feed or processed for fuel and solvents, it doesn’t require pesticides, and its cultivation would work against deforestation,” said Litwin. “It’s an untold part of the cannabis story, but it could ultimately be worth billions.”

Logan, the Sonoma County cannabis advocate, said Sonoma’s carefully cultivated sustainability ethos should serve the emerging legal trade well. The county has adopted rigorous regulations that will require all indoor growers to purchase energy from sustainable sources, and environmental compliance for outdoor grows and manufacturing enterprises will also be strictly enforced.

“That may seem like a burden to some businesses, but it’s also a powerful branding tool,” said Logan. “If you have, say, stamps on your cannabis confirming that it’s from Sonoma and that it’s produced by solar power and that it’s salmon-safe, you automatically appeal to a large segment of consumers.”

Still, Logan is no starry-eyed Pollyanna, convinced all will go well simply because the cause is just.

“Industrialization and consolidation are inevitable,” she said. “It can all be done sustainably, and it can be done equitably. But it’s going to take a lot of work. For example, we’re helping small farmers form co-ops. We think that’s the only way they’ll be able to survive with the big money coming in. We’re only going to have one chance to get this right, and we need to proceed carefully.”

Back in the Mattole Valley, Schuster and Rockenbach are doing everything possible to get it right. They’ve filed for the necessary permits, and they’re spending a lot of money to bring their operation into compliance. They’re designing logos and packaging for their products, and they’re developing cannabis strains uniquely suited to the valley’s microclimates.

If they’re concerned they could still be undone by government and market machinations beyond their control, they’re tamping down their fears, showing visitors nothing more than a steely resolve to persevere. Come hell, high water, or a return of the black helicopters, they’re not leaving their verdant home.

“We’re not in the Mattole Valley to grow cannabis,” says Rockenbach. “We’re growing cannabis so we can live in the Mattole Valley.”

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California’s Path to Legalized Pot

More than 60 percent of Americans now support legal cannabis, a trend that began 20 years ago with the passage of California’s Proposition 215, the country’s first medical marijuana initiative. California was a cannabis policy outlier back in 1996, but now legal pot — medical and recreational — is a social and economic juggernaut. Colorado and Washington both approved legalized recreational marijuana in 2012, and California reasserted itself as the leader in legal weed with the passage of Proposition 64. The state has the agricultural base, the industrial and marketing infrastructure and the workforce needed to supply branded, top-quality cannabis products to the nation — and ultimately, the world.

Currently, legal cannabis in California is governed by two different laws. The Medical Cannabis Regulatory and Safety Act addresses the use of cannabis by people with a physician’s recommendation, while Proposition 64 pertains to adult recreational use. Requirements for cultivation and distribution differ for each law, and there may be compliance conflicts for producers and administrative difficulties for regulators as they try to reconcile the different statutes. Major differences between the MCRSA and Proposition 64 include the size of sanctioned operations. The MCRSA caps the size of outdoor grows at 1 acre and indoor grows at 22,000 square feet. Proposition 64, on the other hand, authorizes various levels of cultivation under a tiered and timed system, concluding with permits that will allow operations of any size in five years.

The MCRSA also stipulates that growers must sell their products to distributors, but generally forbids vertical integration: You can be a grower, or a distributor, or a processor, but you can’t be all three. Proposition 64 doesn’t require growers to sell to distributors and allows cannabis entrepreneurs to wear multiple hats. If they have the requisite ambition and capital, they can grow pot, distribute it, process it, test it and sell it retail.

If there are risks to the legalized cannabis trade, there could also be significant social benefits. A 2016 analysis from ArcView Market Research estimates legal medical and recreational pot will generate $22 billion in economic activity by 2020, and a lot of agencies and public service organizations will be in line for the tax revenues those sales will generate. Under Proposition 64, about $450 million could go annually toward funding youth drug avoidance and treatment programs; $150 million could be devoted to the California Highway Patrol, local law enforcement and fire response programs and public health initiatives; another $150 million would be used to remediate waterways damaged by cannabis operations and protect public lands from illegal growing activities; and $25 million would support ancillary education, law enforcement and health programs.

Santa Rosa Artist’s Work, Unseen for Decades, is Revealed and Celebrated in Local Exhibits

St. Philip’s Church Termite Wrap, (2002) 22×16”, watercolor on paper, by William F. Taylor.

William F. Taylor paints for the love of painting. He paints the way a Zen practitioner meditates, the way a musician composes: as a daily creative practice. Now 89, the shy and nearly deaf Santa Rosa artist has painted almost every day of his adult life, yet never sought to make himself known.

His art was virtually unseen until last fall, when the Sebastopol Center for the Arts, supported by RiskPress Foundation, gave him a solo exhibition. A major group of his paintings of Occidental and its environs is featured in a three-man show opening January 20 at the Occidental Center for the Arts.

BillTaylorBill Taylor’s subject matter is the urban landscape.

He paints seated in his car in front of the subject he has chosen. (He likes the mobility and privacy.) A master draftsman who worked as a graphic artist for two decades in Los Angeles, he draws and paints precisely and at leisure (if he’s not asked to park elsewhere), working in watercolor, pen and ink, acrylics or oils.

When he can’t finish on the spot, he will develop the painting further at home.

Taylor may know Occidental more intimately than anyone alive. For decades he has studied its historic structures and verdant setting, its plays of light and color, its small shifts and transitions. Through the mindful act of painting, he reveals how deeply attached he is to the place. Iconic buildings such as St. Philip the Apostle Church, rendered from different angles at different times of the year (once, shrouded in a striped tent during termite extermination), pop up frequently, like old friends.

His straightforward and elegant images suggest a depth of understanding that can only come from a lifetime of practice. “Their intimacy is compounded and magnified because of the insularity of his deafness,” says his friend Charlie Pendergast of RiskPress. “His paintings are vivid evidence of meticulous insight.”

When he was younger, Taylor learned taxidermy and prepared bird specimens of such high quality that the California Academy of Sciences accessioned them for their collections. His paintings similarly preserve what is beautiful and unique in the region he loves.

“Onsite: Landscapes by Charles Beck, Dave Gordon and Bill Taylor” is on view at Occidental Center for the Arts January 20 through March 13, with an opening reception January 21, 4–7 p.m.

Biggie Meets Beethoven in Unique Santa Rosa Show

Black Violin brings classical music to the hip-hop generation.

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Wil B (Wilner Baptiste) and Kev Marcus (Kevin Sylvester) of Black Violin. (Lisa Leone)

Sit in on any high school band class in America, and you’ll inevitably find one or two students warming up for the day’s Tchaikovsky or Mozart playing melodies from modern hits by Beyonce or Kendrick Lamar. Other students will gather around, reclaiming their instruments and starting a mini jam session — before the teacher taps the conductor’s baton and snaps the young musicians back into reality.

But for the Florida duo Black Violin, such a scene isn’t a warmup. It’s the show itself.

Along with a drummer and DJ, Kevin Sylvester and Wilner Baptiste perform a unique hybrid of hip-hop and classical music, throwing in scratching and freestyling along the way. It’s an energetic, uplifting mixture born from playing in their high school orchestra and listening to ’90s hip-hop.

“Every day in second period, we’re playing Bach and Beethoven and Mozart, and on the way to third period, we have our Walkman on, and we’re listening to Biggie and Mary J. Blige,” said Sylvester in a recent lecture at Florida International University. “We were in this interesting melting pot and we had no idea what was gonna become of it.”

Initially, they didn’t aspire to headline concert halls. But after playing with stars like Kanye West and Jay Z — and performing at both of President Obama’s Inaugural Balls — Black Violin set out to inspire other young students around the country.

While many attempts by classical organizations to appeal to youth falter, Black Violin never fails to get crowds on their feet. Returning to the Luther Burbank Center for the Arts after a successful appearance last January, the duo knows that their sound is more than mere novelty, with a message deeper than music.

“The point is to get people to think differently, to live differently,” Sylvester said. “It’s not about the violins.”

Showtime: 8 p.m. Feb. 22. Admission: $25-$35. Luther Burbank Center for the Arts, 50 Mark West Springs Road, Santa Rosa, 707-546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org

Hip Chick Farms Lands $2.5M in Investments, Credits Local Community for Success

Hip Chick Farms founders pay forward the help they’ve received.

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Hip Chick Farms founders Jennifer Johnson, left, Serafina Palandech and their daughter Rubyrose, 6, at their farm in Sebastopol. (Beth Schlanker)

For Hip Chick Farms founders , the “aha” moment came about six years ago, when they realized how popular chicken fingers were with the kiddie crowd.

Johnson, then a personal chef for billionaires Ann and Gordon Getty in San Francisco, was also cooking for the 20-some children who attended the private Montessori School the Gettys had set up in their house for their granddaughter. From that experience, the Hip Chick idea was born: Why not create a branded line of organic, allnatural chicken bites that the rest of the world could enjoy?

Then came the “uh-oh” moment, when Palandech and Johnson began to realize how much effort and funding it would take to turn that bird into a business. This daunting task was made all the more challenging by their especially high standards. Non-negotiables included the use of premium California poultry like Mary’s Free-Range Chickens, hand-ground panko breading, soybean oil for frying, and no fillers.

“How hard could it be?” Palandech recently recalled thinking, as she relaxed in the sprawling ranch home and animal-rescue sanctuary she shares with wife Johnson and their 6-year-old daughter, Rubyrose, in Sebastopol.

“It was mind-blowing,” Johnson chimed in. “Red tape, and raising money was brutal.”

 Palandech and Rubyrose tend to some of their pet chickens.
Palandech and Rubyrose tend to some of their pet chickens. (Beth Schlanker)

Still, they managed to launch the brand in 2013, and today Hip Chick Farms chicken fingers, wings, nuggets, meatballs and grilled strips are sold at more than 3,000 stores across the West Coast. The business has upgraded from an “office” centered around an orange leather chair and coffee table next to a stone fireplace in their living room, to commercial space on Main Street in downtown Sebastopol.

In October, Johnson — who spent nearly a decade as a chef with Alice Waters at Berkeley’s Chez Panisse — visited the White House to cook a meal for President Barack Obama and his staff. Now she’s working on new adult-oriented recipes for gourmet sausages, among other food items.

It sounds like the perfect, magical success story of two tenacious women breaking into the highly competitive frozen food arena, and dipping their toes into a largely male-dominated agribusiness. Except there were a lot of unexpected twists along the way, and they couldn’t have done it, the pair insists, without a whole lot of help from a whole lot of friends in their Sonoma County community.

In October, Johnson — who spent nearly a decade as a chef with Alice Waters at Berkeley’s Chez Panisse — visited the White House to cook a meal for President Barack Obama and his staff.
In October, Johnson — who spent nearly a decade as a chef with Alice Waters at Berkeley’s Chez Panisse — visited the White House to cook a meal for President Barack Obama and his staff.

“I don’t think this all could have happened anywhere else,” said Johnson, noting that when the couple decided to leave San Francisco five years ago, they considered many other relocation options, including Portland, Oregon. “We were determined to find a farm, and here, we discovered a magical place for community. All our neighbors were so welcoming, and we’re all here because we’re so in love with it.”

Initially, the two started with a $25,000 Kickstarter campaign, “but we went through that money so fast, it was scary,” Palandech said. So she drew on her expertise as a professional charity fundraiser and called on some fellow entrepreneurs.

Indeed, it sounds a bit like an Academy Awards acceptance speech as the duo rolls out the thank-you’s they owe to local entrepreneurs. Sue Conley and Peggy Smith of Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes and Petaluma. Neal Gottlieb of Three Twins in Petaluma. Willie Tamayo of La Tortilla Factory in Santa Rosa. Ernie Shelton of Shelton’s Natural Foods Market in Healdsburg. A big breakthrough came when a top local executive at Whole Foods not only promptly returned Palandech’s email, he asked if he could hang out with the creative women to help strategize their next steps.

“I think people want to help other people,” Palandech said. “There’s a really deep-rooted sense of kindness in this community, with thoughtful, cultured people interested in bettering the world.”

Jennifer Johnson poses with White House Executive Chef Cristeta Comerford, fourth from right, and the kitchen crew.
Jennifer Johnson poses with White House Executive Chef Cristeta Comerford, fourth from right, and the kitchen crew.

One of the more fruitful reach-outs happened when Palandech cold-called Andy and Rachel Berliner of Amy’s Kitchen, the Petaluma-based familyowned company that makes organic and non-GMO convenience and frozen foods for international distribution.

“I essentially said, ‘Can you explain the entire business?’ and they did,” said Palandech.

Among other advice, the Berliners referred her to Acosta Sales & Marketing, a Florida-based company specializing in consumer packaged goods. The Acosta team then hooked up Hip Chick with Greg Hartman, president of Oasis Sales and Marketing in Sebastopol. Oasis works with clients like Three Twins and Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery in Sebastopol. Hartman agreed to take on Hip Chick at no charge.

“I have provided pro bono consulting for numerous brands over the years,” Hartman said. “Since I don’t go to shelters to help feed homeless people, I feel I can at least make a modest contribution to young companies, and help them launch their brands. Sometimes it leads to providing our brand management services, but mostly I want to contribute.”

He chose Palandech and Johnson since he felt they were so marketable, too.

“Hip Chicks have a special story to tell, rich with their unique family, expertise in gourmet recipes and cooking,” he said. “Plus, I love their chicken wings.”

Jennifer Johnson laughs at a comment her wife and business partner, Serafina Palandech, makes to the audience during their appearance at the Sonoma County Women in Conversation series. (Erik Castro)
Jennifer Johnson laughs at a comment her wife and business partner, Serafina Palandech, makes to the audience during their appearance at the Sonoma County Women in Conversation series. (Erik Castro)

Along the way, Palandech and Johnson have worked with SCORE, a network of volunteer business mentors who provide free answers to entrepreneur questions. The group also supports other local female-owned farm businesses like Audrey Hitchcock-Ramini’s Italian water buffalo mozzarella ranch in Petaluma.

They took small business development classes, and in 2014 applied to the Whole Foods Local Producer Loan Program, scoring $35,000 at low interest, plus free mentoring, packaging consultation and coveted entry into the prominent grocery store chain. Whole Foods is well-regarded for assisting other businesses like Grindstone Bakery of Santa Rosa, Saint Benoit Creamery of Petaluma, and Lydia’s Kindfoods of Petaluma.

Hip Chick also joined Sonoma County BEST’s Food Industry Group, an association of natural and specialty food manufacturers who collaborate and share experiences and resources. Other members include Straus Organic, Three Twins, La Tortilla Factory and Amy’s.

With all this community-driven momentum, the fledgling business was really gaining traction when the unimaginable happened. Johnson was diagnosed with a brain tumor in early 2015, and the couple thought they might have to sell their farm to cover medical bills. Yet once again, a friend stepped in, giving them a sizable loan. Serendipity played a part as well, when in July of that year, they won $500,000 on the CNBC show “West Texas Investors Club,” which supports entrepreneurs.

Then, this past October, Hip Chick received a $2 million Series A investment round from Advantage Capital Agribusiness Partners. ACAP is licensed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture to partner with nine Farm Credit organizations that support small business in rural communities.

“U.S. Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack helped create the program so investors would understand our challenges and have patience (for returns),” said Palandech. “They found us when we displayed at Natural Products Expo West this past spring.”

Today, the women are living their Hip Chick dream at their Ramblin’ Rose farm, with Johnson back in good health. They share the bucolic property with three Shire horses, two mini donkeys, five cats, two dogs, a half-dozen pygmy goats, many pet chickens and turkeys, and a kunekune pig named Willie.

They’ve recently added organic turkey patties to their lineup, fashioned with a bit of cream, egg, onion, panko and dried apple. Johnson is tweaking ideas for bourbon-bleu cheese-fig chicken sausages, breakfast patties, and more turkey entrees.

The next goal is to get their products into local school cafeterias; they’ve already broken into the Orinda district.

“It’s important for kids to have real food, sustainably made,” Palandech said.

The duo also hopes to expand into operating their own poultry ranch, to continue the humane practices their partner farms celebrate. They’ve already learned that USDA ranching rules are very complicated, and that, as Palandech said, “it’s very cost intensive to butcher.” Perhaps they’ll find a good local adviser for that step, too.

And then, they plan to pay it all forward.

“In the business, humane animal welfare is becoming a priority,” Palandech said. “Target just asked us what we’re doing to ensure happy animals as we grow. So we’re getting to talk about compassion and transparency.

“It’s funny,” she added. “Now, we’re helping others.”

hipchickfarms.com

On the Ale Trail: An Epic Beer Trip in Sonoma County

Russian River Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. (

How do you get to the heart of the craft brew craze? Go taste at the source: along the Sonoma and Mendocino ale trail.

Russian River Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. (
Russian River Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. (Nino Padova)

“You guys thirsty?” Before we can answer, a hand yanks the tap and fills two tasting cups with an orangey golden ale. I’d been warned about this. Lagunitas pours heavy, enough people told me that we made it our first stop. Sneak a quick tour, then get back on the road. That was the idea. But here we are, early on a Friday afternoon, two guys in cargo shorts and T-shirts far away from the frenzy of our daily lives. Yeah, we’re thirsty.

Two weeks before, I’d sent my buddy Nate an email: Beer run … 3 days, 6 epic breweries. Book a flight! It was more of a challenge than an invitation, the torqued-up chatter that passes for dialogue between us. Years had gone by since we’d last seen each other, and somewhere along the way our lives had outgrown us—marriage, kids, premium cable. The next day he texted me his itinerary.

Our route started in Petaluma, about an hour north of San Francisco, and snaked through Sonoma and Mendocino Counties, home to some of the most exciting beermaking on the planet. We’d slip through wine country’s back door to taste toasty lagers, mouth-puckering sours, stouts the color of crude oil, and the West’s signature brew, the hoppy India Pale Ale. Bud country this was not.

There was, of course, the matter of the car. My 2004 Toyota Corolla with its Cheerios-encrusted car seat wasn’t fit for the occasion. So we rented the biggest, loudest ride we could find, a bright orange Dodge Challenger. Our only rule for the next three days: No Bad Beer!

 Lagunitas Taproom in Petaluma on Friday afternoon. (JOHN BURGESS / Sonoma Magazine) beer
Lagunitas Taproom in Petaluma on a Friday afternoon. (John Burgess)

“Beer speaks, people mumble” is the motto at Lagunitas Brewing, and judging from the line of trucks streaming in and out of the Petaluma brewery, beer has a lot to say. What started as a stovetop operation in Tony Magee’s home has mushroomed into the second-largest craft brewery in California (behind Sierra Nevada). Lagunitas cranked out 160,000 barrels of beer last year—almost 5 million gallons. This year, the company plans to bump production up to more than 200,000 barrels, which would make it about a fifth the size of Anheuser-Busch … in 1902.

Microbrews account for 9 percent of U.S. beer sales—a mere drop in the industry keg. But in recent years, overall sales have slumped while craft brew has exploded, growing 110 percent in the last decade. There are now more small breweries in more places making more styles of beer than at any time since Prohibition. Just walk down the beverage aisle at your local grocery store. Notice all the new sixers and bombers taking over the shelves? That’s beer talking.

There are about 30 of us sipping Lagunitas brews in its Loft, a tasting den that reminds me of an off-campus college clubhouse. It’s dimly lit and decorated with ratty old couches and spaghetti western posters. I could live in this room forever. The man behind the bar pours another beer, A Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ ale. I lean in for a whiff—citrus, grass, lots of hops—then nudge my cup to Nate. (My day to drive.)

“We planned our whole vacation around this,” says the guy next to me, Vince Rinaldo, a homebrewer and graphic designer from Akron, Ohio. He and wife Taylor are in the middle of a four-day beer run from San Francisco to Portland. “We’re not much into sightseeing. If you want to know a place, drink its beer.”

We take the full brewery tour, zip through a maze of stainless steel tanks and massive bins packed with hops, then jump back into the Challenger and rumble 20 minutes north, past fields of grazing cows and roadside fruit stands, to downtown Santa Rosa.

Beer lovers from Sweden, England, Canada and around the U.S. toast Pliny the Younger at Russian River Brewing Company in Santa Rosa on Friday. (JOHN BURGESS
Beer lovers from Sweden, England, Canada and around the U.S. toast Pliny the Younger at Russian River Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess)

A Zen-like hush comes over Nate as we enter Russian River Brewing, considered by some to be the Holy Temple of American craft beer. Brewmaster Vinnie Cilurzo came up in the wine industry, then bought a brewpub with wife Natalie in 2004. The place has been buzzing ever since. During Russian River’s February release of Pliny the Younger—a high-powered triple IPA—hopheads from as far away as Australia and Japan stake out on the sidewalk for hours just to get a taste.

Though famous for his hop-heavy IPAs, Cilurzo likes experimenting with Belgian-style sours, which call for local fruits, oak-barrel aging, and in some cases spontaneous fermentation, where the wort (pre-fermented beer) is exposed to the open air in order to suck up naturally occurring yeasts and bacteria. These beers—with names like Temptation, Supplication, and Beatification—taste unlike any brew I’ve ever had. They’re tangy and brightly acidic, with a complex, dry fruity finish that brings to mind a sparkling wine. They taste, I suppose, like Sonoma.

Brian Hunt, Moonlight Brewing brewmaster Chris Hardy
Brian Hunt, Moonlight Brewing brewmaster. (Chris Hardy)

It’s late afternoon when we’re whirring down dirt roads northwest of Santa Rosa. Nate is air-drumming to early Who while I wrestle with the GPS. I’d heard about Moonlight Brewing, a one-man operation in the middle of Zin country. No tasting room. No brewpub. But some of the most amazing beer I’ve never had, I was told.

I find Brian Hunt at his private brewery, where he kegs about 1,500 barrels, most of which travel 60 miles max—less than Nate and I drove this morning. “Beer is like bread,” Hunt says, tilting a glass of straw-colored Reality Czeck pilsner so it catches the light. “You want it fresh, and that means you want it local.”

We’re plunked down on lawn chairs at the top of his driveway. Behind us is a boneyard of empty kegs and the old barn where Hunt concocts his brews, including some flavored with mugwort and wild bergamot instead of hops. His Working for Tips, a copper-colored ale, is spiced with the sticky ends of redwood branches from his front yard.

Hunt tells us about New Albion, the Sonoma brewery that set the path for the industry 30 years ago, about its founder, Jack McAuliffe, an engineer and homebrewer who applied his skills to make real beer, ingredient-driven and full-flavored, about how McAuliffe welded together old Coca-Cola drums and dairy tanks to cook up 15 barrels a week. No tasting room. No brewpub. Just beer so innovative that it helped start a revolution.

A sampler flight of beers at Bear Republic Brewing Co., in Healdsburg. (photo by Christopher Chung)
A sampler flight of beers at Bear Republic Brewing Co., in Healdsburg. (Christopher Chung)

We leave Hunt’s feeling light and energetic, ready for whatever might lie around the next bend. In Healdsburg, we march past $600-a-night hotels in flip-flops to taste wheat ale from a barrel at Bear Republic. The next morning, we hang a left onto Highway 128, a snarl of hairpin turns that passes through vineyards, a goat farm, and a redwood forest before spitting us out at the coast. It’s a glorious drive, with the V8 Hemi humming and Petty’s “Free Fallin’ ” on the speakers. In Boonville, we stop to pose for snapshots beside an antlered bear, Anderson Valley Brewing’s “Beer” mascot.

Visitors tour the Anderson Valley Brewing Company on Thursday, August 16, 2013. (photo by John Burges
Visitors tour the Anderson Valley Brewing Company. (John Burgess)

The Pacific peeks in and out of view as we coast the last stretch from Mendocino to Fort Bragg. It’s right on top of us, then behind a clump of trees, always hiding. We drop our things at the motel and hike out to a headland to watch the surf, then over an old railroad trestle once used to haul lumber. For more than a century, Fort Bragg was a booming mill town. And even today, the last of the saws long silenced, a scruffy blue-collar spirit remains.

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Bartender Jessica Melcher at North Coast Brewing Company’s Taproom in Fort Bragg. (Alvin Jornada)

I notice it in the taproom at North Coast Brewing. An early player in the craft scene, the brewery specializes in sturdy, slow-sipping beer—Belgian darks and Imperial stouts.

And I notice it at Piaci, a one-room pub that serves the best thin-crust pizza in the county. The bar is three-deep. Locals, mostly. Men in baseball caps and sweaters with thick, calloused hands that make the pint glasses inside them look small. The beer menu reads like a road journal from the last 48 hours. There are Lagunitas’s hopped-up IPAs and a tasty black lager from Moonlight Brewing.

The pub is loud in the way that pubs get loud when everyone knows each other. Voices rising excitedly over other voices. We grab two stools beside a group of truckers. One of them is telling a story, waving his hands wildly, and his friends are laughing. Nate and I are laughing too. This is the last night before we point the car south and return to our regularly scheduled lives—back to our spread-sheets and youth soccer and fuel-efficient compacts—and I want to spend it right here in this room, with these guys. And that’s not the beer talking.


TASTE NORCAL’S BEST BEER
Take a 125-mile trip from Petaluma to Fort Bragg.

Lagunitas Brewing. The free brewery tour starts with a tasting and ends in the taproom for live music. Tap into: A Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ Ale, a “wheatish” beer with a huge hop finish. $; lagunitas.com

Russian River Brewing. More than 15 selections await in the busy brewpub. Tap into: Supplication, a brown ale brewed with sour cherries aged in Pinot Noir barrels. $$; russianriverbrewing.com

Bear Republic Brewing. The Healdsburg brewpub’s full-bodied ales pair well with its spicy chili. Tap into: Racer 5, a classic West-Coast style IPA. Big, bold, and balanced. $$; bearrepublic.com

Anderson Valley Brewing. The brewery sits on 30 acres that include a taproom and plenty of picnic tables. Tap into: The caramely smooth Boont Amber Ale. avbc.com

North Coast Brewing. The sampler tray covers all the beer bases. Tap into: Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout. Dark, strong, bitter, beautiful. $$; northcoastbrewing.com

Piaci Pub & Pizzeria. The 14 tap handles rotate like the tides with local beers. Tap into: Moonlight’s Death & Taxes, an easy-drinking black lager. $$; piacipizza.com


MORE CLASSIC ALE TRAILS
– Eric Smillie

1. Denver to Fort Collins, CO (76 miles)

Great Divide Brewing, Denver. Don’t miss: Oak Aged Yeti, a roasty Imperial Stout with a touch of vanilla. greatdivide.com

Avery Brewing, Boulder. Don’t miss: Small-batch specials; coconut shrimp with lemony White Rascal witbier. $; averybrewing.com

Oskar Blues Brewery, Longmont. Don’t miss: Firkin Fridays for one-off experiments at the Tasty Weasel Tap Room. oskarblues.com

New Belgium Brewing, Fort Collins. Don’t miss: The 90-minute brewery tour that ends with you going down a slide. newbelgium.com

2. San Diego to Placentia, CA (112 miles)

AleSmith brewing, San Diego. Don’t miss: Evil Dead Red, a red ale thick with hops and a smooth toffee sweetness. alesmith.com

Stone Brewing, Escondido. Don’t miss: Sampling four beers on the brewery tour, including the powerful Arrogant Bastard Ale. $$; stonebrew.com

The Lost Abbey, San Marcos. Don’t miss: Wild yeast brews, such as the dry, sour-cherry-flavored Cuvee de Tomme (released in mid-November). lostabbey.com

The Bruery, Placentia. Don’t miss: Beers made with surprising ingredients like yam, Thai basil, and toasted pecans. thebruery.com

3. Portland to Newport, OR (385 miles)

Hair of the Dog Brewery, Portland. Don’t miss: Adam, a chocolatey, earthy dessert ale. $; hairofthedog.com

Full Sail Brewing, Hood River. Don’t miss: Locally-raised-beef burgers and a view of the Columbia River from the pub deck. $; fullsailbrewing.com

Deschutes Brewery, Bend. Don’t miss: Trial brews such as the Oh Be Joyful pale ale and spicy mac and cheese. $$; deschutesbrewery.com

Rogue Brewery, Newport. Don’t miss: The brewery’s full catalog of beers on tap, plus halibut fish and chips. $$; rogue.com

New Sonoma Brew is Hazycalifrajilistichoppy-aladocious

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The “HazyCaliFrajilisticHoppyaladocious” from Sonoma Springs Brewing Company is a rare fruity New England-Style IPA. (Sonoma Springs Brewing Company)

Sonoma Springs Brewing Company, located in the town of Sonoma, is releasing a new brew and it’s definitely much easier to drink than it is to pronounce – and it’s pretty much as magical as Mary Poppins! Modeled after the popular Northeastern-style “juicy” IPAs, the “HazyCaliFrajilisticHoppyaladocious” is a unique addition to the Sonoma County beer scene; a fruity New England-style IPA that contrasts the citrusy, piney, bitter IPAs common here on the West Coast. 

As the name suggests, Sonoma Spring’s latest release is heavily hopped, with tropic flavors, and the appearance is cloudy – or hazy – resembling orange juice. New England breweries like Treehouse and Trillium have paved the way for this style of IPA among beer geeks around the world, showing that, while different, they can hold their hoppy own against the Blind Pigs (Russian River Brewing Company) and Racer 5s (Bear Republic Brewing Company) of the world. 

“We are always trying to innovate and do something new,” says Sonoma Springs Managing Partner Derek Drennan. “It keeps things interesting for us, as well as for our customers at the taproom and for folks that drink our beers at the many bars and restaurants that serve them across Northern California. Plus no one, that we are aware of anyway, is doing this style in Sonoma County. It is always fun to try to introduce our great beer drinking community to a new-ish style.”

HazyCaliFrajilisticHoppyaladocious is a mashup of Crystal, Mosaic, Amarillo, and Citra hops. The alcohol comes in right around 7.5%.

 “In early tastings this brew is a total fruit bomb – in a good way!” says Drennan. “We certainly took into account beers of this style that we have tasted from places like Treehouse and Trillium. There are some good regional ones regionally that we like as well, including Moonraker in Sacramento and Alvarado Street in Monterrey. However, we definitely went our own direction and gave it our own Sonoma flare,” Drennan adds.

The fruity and juicy IPA is now available on tap at Sonoma Springs Brewing Co. in Sonoma. If it’s well received, they plan to brew it again, making it a regular beer at the taproom and putting it into cans for purchase and distribution.

Sonoma Springs Brewing Company, Riverside Dr #101, Sonoma, CA 95476, @SonomaSprings, sonomasprings.com, (707) 938-7422, Taproom hours: Mon-Thurs 4-9PM and Fri-Sun 1-9PM

6 Fun & Cheap Things to Do in Sonoma County in January

San Francisco/Sonoma County band Royal Jelly Jive plays at the Cloverdale Plaza “Friday Night Live.”

Spent too much money during the holidays, but still want to have a bit of fun? Check out this list of local events in January that won’t break the bank.

San Francisco/Sonoma County band Royal Jelly Jive plays at the Cloverdale Plaza "Friday Night Live."
San Francisco/Sonoma County band Royal Jelly Jive performs at HopMonk Sebastopol, Saturday, January 28.

Arlene Francis Presents: Winter Clothing Swap – Santa Rosa
What better way to say “out with the old and in with the new” than recycling your old outfits at the Winter Clothing Swap at Arlene Francis Center in Santa Rosa? This is a popular community event, put on every couple of months, to help you clear out your closet and perhaps pick up a few new items. Meet some new people as you sort through potential finds and listen to live music.

Friday, January 20, 4 – 10:30 pm, $10 suggested donation, Arlene Francis Center, 99 Sixth Street, Santa Rosa

Phoenix Pro Wrestling – Petaluma
Who needs WWF Smackdown when there’s Phoenix Pro Wrestling? Skip Friday night wrestling on TV and see the real deal at one of Petaluma’s longest standing all-age venues: The Phoenix Theater. On Friday, January 20th, the 100-year-old venue turns into a wrestling ring, featuring fights that will beat any on-screen battle.

Friday, January 20, 7:30 – 11:30 pm, $2-$10, Phoenix Theatre, 201 Washington St, Petaluma

Laura Frost takes Lisa Lace for a spin at
Laura Frost takes Lisa Lace for a spin at Phoenix Pro Wrestling in Petaluma. (John O’Hara)

Emerging Visual Artists Opening Reception – Petaluma
Want to explore the local art scene? Catch the fourth biannual “Discovered: Emerging Artists from Sonoma County” exhibit at the Petaluma Arts Center on Saturday, January 21. The exhibit showcases five local artists, selected by Creative Sonoma from a list of 49 applications, and will include mix media, oil, video, ceramics and paper art work. The opening reception is free and open to the public.

Saturday, January 21, 5 – 7pm, Free, Petaluma Arts Center, 230 Lakeville Street, Petaluma

Live Music at the Forestville Club – Forestville
Grab a few drinks and spend the night listening to an eclectic mix of local bands, and a special guest act from Portland, at one of Sonoma County’s best dive bars: the Forestville Club. The night’s lineup includes The Illumignarly, PWRHAUS, Rags, and Slow Bloom – whether you’re into surf rock, dream pop, indie tunes or something a little harder, there’s a band on the bill to fit a variety of musical tastes. Show up early for a cocktail and a game of pool.

Wednesday, January 25, 8 – 12pm, Forestville Club, 6250 Front St, Forestville

Roe v. Wade Birthday Party at Brew – Santa Rosa
Join some of Sonoma County’s finest female musicians at Brew in Santa Rosa for the 44th annual celebration of the U.S. Supreme Court’s decision to affirm the legality of a woman’s right to choose. Drink beer, eat cake, check out local art, and dance the night away to the sound of talented ladies, including solo artist Ashley Allred, Emily Bonn of The Vivants, and Kristen Pearce of The Betty Blues. Entrance is by donation and all proceeds will benefit Planned Parenthood.

Sunday, January 22, 2-7 pm, $10-25 suggested donation, Brew, 555 Healdsburg Ave, Santa Rosa

Lauren Michelle Bjelde and Royal Jelly Jive combine elements of Soul, Rock, Swing and Hip-Hop. (www.royaljellyjive.com)
Lauren Michelle Bjelde and Royal Jelly Jive combine elements of Soul, Rock, Swing and Hip-Hop. (www.royaljellyjive.com)

Royal Jelly Jive at HopMonk – Sebastopol
Skip the hour drive to the city and catch a rambunctious bunch of San Francisco musicians live at HopMonk Sebastopol. After playing festivals such as OutsideLands and Santa Rosa’s own Rail Road Square music festival, it’s a rare but delightful treat to see the band play in Sonoma County again. Royal Jelly Jive offers a fresh mix of soul and hip-hop with sultry songs such as “Bad” and a blend of high energy rock n’ roll tunes with a hint of swing in tunes like “Tommy The Cat,”  that are likely to have just about anyone dancing.

Saturday, January 28, doors open 8 pm, show starts 9 pm, $12.00 – $15.00, HopMonk Tavern, 230 Petaluma Ave, Sebastopol (21 and older only).

Big Brewery Birthday Bash Coming Up in Santa Rosa

Fraser Ross pours a beer for the Friday crowd at Fogbelt Brewing Company in Santa Rosa, June 27, 2014. (Conner Ja

Fogbelt Brewing Company turns three this year, and the Santa Rosa brewery certainly have a lot to cheer to: a series of great events, an ever busy taproom, a phenomenal chef serving up seasonally inspired dishes and, of course, loads of fantastic beers. To celebrate their anniversary, Fogbelt is inviting all beer lovers to a big birthday bash on February 11th. 

Paul Hawley, left and Remy Martin of Fogbelt Brewing in Santa Rosa, Monday March 30, 2015. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
Paul Hawley, left and Remy Martin, founders of Fogbelt Brewing in Santa Rosa. (Kent Porter)

Here is what is on the menu for the Fogbelt birthday bash: 

Plenty of beer: Fogbelt is releasing 3 new brews during the event: Dyerville Giant Imperial Red, Godwood Triple IPA and Gin Barrel Aged Hyperion Red (limited production)

Barbecue and a special dish: A pig roast.

And, in true Fogbelt Brewing fashion, there will be live music Down, Dirty Shake.

Fraser Ross pours a beer for the Friday crowd at Fogbelt Brewing Company in Santa Rosa, June 27, 2014. (Conner Ja
Fraser Ross pours a beer for the Friday crowd at Fogbelt Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. (Conner Jay)

Fogbelt Brewing will be expanding its venue space for the day, taking up parts of the parking lot so that more people can partake in the fun. 

Deviled eggs at Fogbelt Brewing in Santa Rosa (Heather Irwin, PD)
Deviled eggs at Fogbelt Brewing in Santa Rosa (Heather Irwin)

There is no cost to attend the anniversary party, just pay for the beer. Save the date to celebrate and raise a glass with the folks at Fogbelt in honor of their third year. Fogbelt Brewing Company, 1305 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa, CA, 95401, (707)-978-3400, fogbeltbrewing.com, @FogbeltBrewing

Speakeasy Spirit Alive and Roaring as Royal Jelly Jive Takes the Stage in Sebastopol

Luke Zavala (left) and Robby Elfman (right) of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol.

The 1920s speakeasy spirit was alive and roaring this Saturday as Royal Jelly Jive and Marty O’Reilly took the stage at a sold-out HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. Check out the gallery below for some swing and jazz action: 

Luke Zavala (left) and Robby Elfman (right) of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol.
Luke Zavala (left) and Robby Elfman (right) of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Lauren Bjelde of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Lauren Bjelde of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Martin O'Reilly and Chris Lynch perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Martin O’Reilly and Chris Lynch perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
The crowd is enjoying the Royal Jelly Jive show at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
The crowd is enjoying the Royal Jelly Jive show at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Lauren Bjelde of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Lauren Bjelde of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)

Royal Jelly JIve Crowd Shot 03

Martin O'Reilly performs at HopMonk Tavern Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Martin O’Reilly performs at HopMonk Tavern Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Felix Macnee of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Felix Macnee of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Lauren Bjelde of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Lauren Bjelde of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)

Royal Jelly JIve Crowd Shot 04

Jesse Lemme Adams of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Jesse Lemme Adams of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Lauren Bjelde of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Lauren Bjelde of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
The crowd is enjoying the Royal Jelly Jive show at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
The crowd is enjoying the Royal Jelly Jive show at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Felix Macnee, Jesse Lemme and friend at the Royal Jelly Jive gig at HopMonk in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Felix Macnee, Jesse Lemme and friend at the Royal Jelly Jive gig at HopMonk in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Lauren Bjelde of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)
Lauren Bjelde of Royal Jelly Jive perform at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol. (Estefany Gonzalez)

Phoenix Pro Wrestling Takes the Ring in Petaluma

On Friday night, renowned all-age music venue The Phoenix Theater turned into a battle scene as Phoenix Pro Wrestling returned to Petaluma. The family friendly fight night featured creative costumes, including an impressive lineup of colorful spandex outfits and luchador masks, and, of course, plenty of drama. 

To catch a bit of the action, check out our photo gallery below. (For the real deal, check out the upcoming Championship Cage Match in March: phoenixprowrestling.com)

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