Sonoma County Restaurant Week Will Go On Despite Pandemic

By Heather Irwin
BN Ranch Hanger Steak with jalapeno charmoula, demi-glace, salt and pepper frites at Seared in Petaluma. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

Sonoma County Restaurant Week is happening Feb. 19-28. While I love the idea of Restaurant Week, I’m a bit ambivalent this year. The concept of helping local restaurants during the quiet winter season is on point, but the timing seems a bit tone-deaf when vaccinations for restaurant workers and the general public are moving far more slowly than anticipated. It’s a tough call.

So, what to do? I would strongly encourage readers to check out the socorestaurantweek.org website and wander around. While the actual information about menus is sparse, there are options for buying a gift card (a swell idea) and even better, it may turn you on to a new restaurant you’d like to check out either for Restaurant Week or later.

I don’t want to discourage dining out, especially since a business boost right now could literally make or break some restaurants. But it’s equally important to be mindful of restaurant workers. I’m going to let Sonoma County Restaurant Week plant a seed in my brain to try restaurants I’ve forgotten about or want to try again. I encourage you to do the same.

See participating restaurants and purchase gift cards here. 

6 Sonoma Wineries That Are Making Extra Virgin Olive Oil

By Dana Rebmann

Dining outside or ordering takeout from our favorite Sonoma County restaurants is a great way to support local businesses during the pandemic, but chances are you’re still doing more cooking at home these days. Something as simple as swapping out that store-bought extra virgin olive oil in your pantry with a locally produced bottle can be a game changer in the kitchen. Thanks to a small group of Sonoma County wineries we can get liquid gold — when it’s fresh and at its peak — delivered straight to our doorsteps. Along with upping you dinner game, it’s a great opportunity to support family-owned businesses.

Click through the gallery above to learn more about some of the best locally-produced olive oils in Sonoma County. You just might find something new to love from one of your favorite local wineries.

Sonoma County Hotels Featured on New Amazon Prime Show

By Grace Yarrow

Sonoma County residents — and Wine Country frequenters — might notice a few familiar spots if they tune into Amazon Prime Video’s new series “Epic Hotels.”

The first episode of the series highlights four hotels in the Sonoma and Napa areas. First on the list of “epic” properties is Timber Cove Resort, located in Jenner and overlooking the Sonoma coast.

“It was a ton of fun to show off. It’s such a beautiful place and it looks just brilliant on TV,” said Timber Cove general manager David Ahern. On the show, Ahern gives a tour of the resort, including outdoor areas, the spacious lobby, and ocean-view rooms.

The hotel has a rustic but luxurious feel and is the only Sonoma County resort with an unobstructed view of the Pacific Ocean. The expansive property offers plenty of space for guests to explore, watch whales or take a break with a glass of local wine.

“Especially now, in 2021, escaping wherever you are is perfect. We have 23 acres to distance yourself, to collect yourself, to kind of refocus your energy on what’s going to be an amazing 2021,” Ahern said.

The second hotel featured on the Amazon show is Vintners Resort in Santa Rosa. The property attracts visitors with beautiful gardens and two restaurants, and shows off Sonoma’s vineyards and natural beauty.

“It’s just like being in the south of France or the south of Italy. It’s the Mediterranean in Sonoma County,” said Percy Brandon, general manager of Vintners Inn, on the show.

The producers of “Epic Hotels” also showed segments from Napa County hotels Triple S Ranch and Vista Collina Resort in the Sonoma/Napa episode.

Sonoma County Restaurants Are Serving Up Super Bowl Meals To Go

By Dana Rebmann
Truffle fries at Wing Man in Cotati. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

It doesn’t matter who you are rooting for in this Sunday’s big game because, let’s be honest, the real question is: what will you be eating? When it comes down to it, by halftime, it’s food that has the power to make every fan happy.

From classic chicken wings and chili to ribeye and Brussel sprouts, chefs like Liza Hinman and Dustin Valette are offering Super Bowl takeaway menus that make game day grub a no-brainer. You can eat like royalty without spending hours in the kitchen, while also supporting local businesses. It’s a win any way you look at it.

Many of the menus below must be ordered in advance, so don’t delay.

The Spinster Sisters

The “Big Game Menu” from Santa Rosa’s The Spinster Sisters features some of the kitchen team’s favorite Super Bowl dishes.

“Seven layer dip is one of my favorites,” says chef Liza Hinman, owner of The Spinster Sisters. “I make it every year.”

Curbside pick up is on Saturday, February 6, from 4:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. and the food can be easily reheated on Sunday while you’re watching the game. Wine pairing is available. Order ASAP, because Family Meals like these sell out quickly. (The Spinster Sisters plans to continue to offer Family Meals for the next few months, Tuesday through Saturday, 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. for curbside pickup).

401 South A Street, Santa Rosa, 707-528-7100, thespinstersisters.com

The Spinster Sisters’ Big Game Menu

  • Chili Con Carne + all the fixings
  • Bacon + Pickled Pepper Corn Muffins
  • 7 Layer Black Bean Dip with House-made Tortilla Chips
  • Bacon Wrapped Jalapeños with Honey Goat Cheese
  • Flash Fired Brussel Sprouts with Lemon Aioli
  • Chocolate Rum Cake
  • $66 serves two
Chili from The Spinster Sisters in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy photo)
Chili from The Spinster Sisters in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy photo)
Joe Trez of Wing Man in Cotati. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)
Joe Trez of Wing Man in Cotati. (Heather Irwin)

Wing Man

Joe Trez of Wing Man in Cotati says he’s “loved wings ever since I was a kid.”

The restaurant offers nearly a dozen sauce choices for its crispy wings along with a selection of more than 80 beers, including local favorites like Cooperage Brewing Company, Moonlight Brewing Company, and Russian River Brewing Company.

Pre-orders can be placed online for your preferred pick-up time on game day.

101 East Cotati Avenue, Cotati, 707-794-9464, wingmanfoodtruck.com

Wing Man’s Super Bowl Sunday Special

  • 30 Wings (bone-in, boneless or vegan) with choice of up to five sauces
  • Carrot and Celery Sticks with Ranch or Blue Cheese Dressing
  • Choice of any style of French fries: Plain Jane, Garlic + Parmesan, Truffle + Parmesan, or Sweet Potato Fries
  • Mixed Four Pack of Local Beer, Sparkling Wine or Six Sodas
  • $50 serves two to four

Ricky’s Eastbound

Ricky’s Super Bowl takeout menu incorporates a number of favorites from both Ricky’s Eastbound and owner Rick Bruno’s recently-closed restaurant, Bruno’s On Fourth. Professional baker Clare Hulme of Wooden Petal helped open Ricky’s, so her pretzels are a natural fit on the Super Bowl menu.

Orders must be placed by 7 p.m. on Thursday, February 4, for pick up on Saturday, February 6, from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Dishes can be reheated to eat on Sunday during the game.

5755 Mountain Hawk Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-536-6606, RickysEastboundOrders@gmail.com, rickyseastbound.com

Ricky’s Super Bowl Heat & Eat Meal

  • Wooden Petal Pretzels with Honey-Mustard Dip & Rick’s Gruyere & Bacon Cheese Dip
  • House-Made Tortilla Chips with Guacamole & Salsa
  • St. Louis Hoisin & BBQ Pork Ribs (half & half)
  • Moonlight Brewing Death & Taxes Stout Baked Beans
  • Ricky’s Mac n’ Cheese
  • $125 serves four. $245 serves eight.

Valette Healdsburg

“When I think of [the] Super Bowl I can’t help but imagine massive ribeye steaks on the grill smoking away and of course a cold beer,” says chef Dustin Valette, proprietor of Valette restaurant in Healdsburg.

In honor of Super Bowl 55, Valette is offering a Super Bowl Sunday Provisions Menu for $55 per person.

Order online sooner as opposed to later to avoid disappointment. Pickup is available 11 a.m. through 2 p.m. on game day.

344 Center Street, Healdsburg, 707-473-0946, valettehealdsburg.com

Valette’s Super Bowl Sunday

  • Valette House-Made Bread
  • Charcuterie and Local Cheese
  • ‘Pliny’s’ Mac n’ Cheese with Gouda and House-Made Bacon
  • 18 oz Sous Vide Creekstone Ribeye
  • $55 per person. Minimum two people.
The Butcher Burger with house American, cheddar and jack cheese, iceberg lettuce, smoked 'n' grilled onions and pickles from the Butcher Crown Roadhouse in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The Butcher Burger with house American, cheddar and jack cheese, iceberg lettuce, smoked ‘n’ grilled onions and pickles from the Butcher Crown Roadhouse in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Butcher Crown Roadhouse

Butcher Crown Roadhouse in Petaluma is offering special Super Bowl Pigskin Platters and Football Feasts, including smoked brisket by the pound, brisket chili, slider trays with choice of smoked brisket and pulled pork, mac ‘n’ cheese, plus their regular menu for pick up on game day. The cut-off time to reserve for Super Bowl Big Game BBQ packs is Thursday at 8 p.m. Porch pick-up is between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m. on Sunday for these items. Make reservations here.

1905 Bodega Ave, Petaluma, 707-559-3735, butchercrown.com

Butcher Crown Roadhouse’s Super Bowl Big Game BBQ Packs

  • Humm Baby-Back Ribs
  • Pulled Pork Slider Tray
  • Slow ‘n’ Low Pulled Pork
  • Smoked Brisket
  • Mac ‘n Cheese
  • Brisket Slider Tray: One pound of 24 hour-smoked Brisket, 16 Hawaiian rolls, coleslaw, pickles
  • Ultimate Pigskin Pack BBQ Feast: 2 Full Birds Piri Piri Chicken, 2 Full Racks Humm Baby-back Ribs, 2 pounds of 24 hour smoked Brisket, 2 pounds slow ‘n’ low smoked Pulled Pork, plus tray of mac ‘n’ cheese, tray of cornbread, large size sides of loaded potato salad, and creamy coleslaw ($349)

Tips Roadside

Tips Roadside in Kenwood is serving up Super Bowl meals to go. Pre-order and pick up your order at the restaurant between 12-3 p.m. on Sunday. Cocktail crowlers and bottles of wine available with to go orders.

Tips Roadside’s Super Bowl Specials

  • Smoked Tri Tip Meal: Whole Tri Tip, BBQ Baked Beans, Housemade Coleslaw, Bread rolls. (4-6 people; $99.00)
  • Smoked Chicken Wings w/ Alabama Sauce (4-6 people; $50.00)
  • Tri Tip Nachos (4-6 people; $35.00)
  • Tri-Tip Chili & White Cheddar Cornbread (4-8 people; $50.00)

Is one of your favorite Sonoma County restaurants offering a Super Bowl Sunday spread to go? We’d love to know! Leave details in the comments below.

12 Sonoma Wineries to Visit Right Now

By Jean Saylor Doppenberg

Sonoma County wineries are open for outdoor tastings. Here are a few recommendations of wineries to visit. Please call ahead — many wineries require appointments and seating may be limited. Click through the above gallery for a peek at the wineries.

Abbot’s Passage Winery & Mercantile

The tasting room that spotlights the work of Katie Bundschu, the first female winemaker in her six-generation California wine family, recently moved from downtown Sonoma to this spacious location which once housed Valley of the Moon Winery. Bundschu is grafting and crossing vines from the property’s historic Zinfandel vineyard to make completely new varietals for future vintages. Wines by Bundschu you can enjoy now include Sightline, a Chenin Blanc-Verdejo blend; Redshift, a mix of Zinfandel, Merlot, and Pinot Noir; and Tri Point, a blend of Viognier and Syrah. The $40 tasting is available with food pairings if you choose.

777 Madrone Road, Glen Ellen, 707-939-3017, abbotspassage.com

Black Knight Vineyards

In 2007, the Black family bought 15 acres of vineyards in the Bennett Valley AVA and replanted them to cool-climate varietals. Since then, the family has added many more acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and less-common grapes such as Gamay and Ploussard. They also make sparkling wine, with a “bubble bar” as part of the Black Knight tasting room that opened in downtown Petaluma last summer. “The turnout by locals has been great, and the wine is flowing,” says owner Lexine Black. “Nearly all of our wines are estate-grown and produced, and we bottle about 1,500 cases. We expect to release our newest rosé the weekend of Valentine’s Day.” Choose from the standard tasting of five wines ($20), a vertical tasting of Chardonnay ($35), or a sparkling wine flight.

155 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-278-6877, blackknightvineyards.com

Corner 103

Owner Lloyd Davis has a reputation for creating an enjoyable tasting experience, recently verified when Corner 103 was named the best tasting room in the nation by 10Best, a travel guide published by USA Today. The by-reservation-only tasting ($20) might include samples of five limited-production wines such as sparkling rosé, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Malbec, and a Marsanne- Roussanne blend. New releases likely to be poured this month include the 2018 Knights Valley Primitivo, 2018 Sonoma Valley Zinfandel, 2017 Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah, and the 2018 Sonoma Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon.

103 W. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-931-6141, corner103.com

Davis Family Vineyards

Overlooking the Russian River, the setting of this tasting room is only a few blocks from downtown Healdsburg. The excellent Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah produced by Guy Davis have made this a must-visit. The Davis family also bottles Chardonnay, Roussanne, and a Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend, and they received two gold medals for their Pinot in the 2020 North Coast Wine Challenge. Tasting appointments are recommended on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday ($20).

52 Front St., Healdsburg, 707-433-3858, davisfamilyvineyards.com

DeLoach Vineyards

Owned by vintner Jean-Charles Boisset, DeLoach sources its fruit from many local vineyards, including Chardonnay from the Ritchie Vineyard, one of the oldest in the Russian River Valley, and the Saitone Vineyard, where the average age of the vines is 100-plus years. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are primarily bottled here, but Zinfandel is also produced. The Amphora line includes Carignane and the white Italian grape Ribolla Gialla. A seated tasting of four wines is $20; add cheese or charcuterie for two, or a boxed lunch from the Oakville Grocery ($30 each). Weather permitting, take a self-guided tour through the estate’s organic and biodynamic farm.

1791 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa, 707-755-3300, deloachvineyards.com

Dutton-Goldfield Winery

When grapegrower Steve Dutton teamed with winemaker Dan Goldfield in 1998, they started a label known for world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, along with Zinfandel, Syrah, and Riesling. Select the basic tasting of five wines, or choose a four-taste all-Pinot ($30 each). Wine-and-cheese pairings ($35) feature seasonally selected wines. The grapes are sourced mostly from the cool climates of the Petaluma Gap AVA and the Green Valley district of the Russian River Valley AVA. “Dan is an outdoor enthusiast who’s discovered many great vineyards while riding his bike around the region,” says general manager Valerie Wathen. “He seeks out the special microclimates in vineyards and says, ‘I want to make wine from there.’”

3100 Gravenstein Highway N., Sebastopol, 707-823-3887, duttongoldfield.com

Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery

The Fort Ross-Seaview AVA is one of Sonoma County’s smallest, with fewer than 600 planted acres, located on steep coastal ridges inland from the ocean with elevations ranging from 920 to 1,800 feet. These slopes produce some of the finest cool-climate grapes in the county. Fort Ross winery owners Lester and Linda Schwartz have carved out 53 acres of vineyards planted to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and, in a nod to their South African roots, Pinotage. Sample four estate-grown wines together with a pairing of charcuterie or artisanal cheeses, with house-made morsels that might include duck with dried sour-cherry terrine, local rabbit rillette, and marinated vegetables ($45). By appointment only.

15725 Meyers Grade Rd., Jenner, 707-847-3460 fortrossvineyard.com.

Iron Horse Vineyards

Tastings at this house of sparkling wine are offered four times daily, and bottle service is also available for guests who reserve a table. The winery has partnered with Big Bottom Market to deliver prepared meals that guests can order in advance. “In January, we’ll release two special bottles of bubbly for visitors,” adds Ariana Chapanar, tasting room host. “The first is our Chinese cuvée, which we produce to commemorate Chinese New Year. The other is Commander’s Palace, celebrating Mardi Gras and named for the iconic restaurant in New Orleans. It’s the private label we make for the restaurant, and they allocate 400 cases back to us to share with our guests.”

9786 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol, 707-887-1507, ironhorsevineyards.com

Meadowcroft Wines

Tom Meadowcroft has the ideal name for a wine producer: “meadow” means a fertile field, and “croft” refers to a cultivated area. He bottles several whites and reds, including Sauvignon Blanc, Colombard, Viognier, Roussanne, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Wine by the glass or bottle is available to-go without reservations (a $12 snack box can be added), or a seated wine-and-food bites option ($30) can be reserved. A taste of four wines together with a picnic lunch can also be arranged ($40), or a Pinot tasting with light bites ($50), and a blending and tasting experience ($105).

23574 Arnold Drive (in Cornerstone Sonoma), Sonoma, 707-934-4090, meadowcroftwines.com

Roger Roessler Wines

The signature wine created by this small producer is Pinot Noir, including its popular Black Pine Pinot. Additional varietals are Chardonnay, Grenache, Grenache Blanc, Carignane, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a red Bordeaux-style blend. Three tastings are offered: four samples of single-vineyard Pinots of different vintages and AVAs ($15), four Rhône varietals, or a combo of five Pinots and Rhône wines ($12 each). Wines by the glass are also poured. Monthly case sales are offered in January and February, when visitors can expect to save at least 45%. “As a small passion-project type of winery,” says Ethan Glago, director of hospitality, “we’re making wine we love to drink, and we’re all about small quantity and high quality. In the past year our Pinots have received seven double-gold medals and 10 gold medals.”

654 Broadway, Sonoma, 707-933-1330, rogerroesslerwines.com

Sangiacomo Family Wines

This tasting room operated by the legendary Sangiacomo grape-growing family opened last summer to showcase their own line of wines, in production since 2016. The spot launched with a soft opening, says director of hospitality Meghan Delzell, then quickly became a popular spot for its tasting of five current releases, such as Sonoma Coast Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and a selection of single-vineyard wines ($30). “Our beautiful terrace has a great view, and visitors are loving being here. Hospitality is so much about the experience, and to engage with the host and the property,” Delflight zell says. Now producing 1,000 cases annually, Delzell says the goal is to increase production by 10% every year.

21545 Broadway, Sonoma, 707-934-8445, sangiacomowines.com

Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards

Set amid 400 acres, this long-standing winery is prized for its Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc. The Pinot and Chardonnay picked up several gold medals in the 2020 North Coast Wine Challenge. Sonoma-Cutrer tends 270 acres of premium Chardonnay vineyards, and the area around its tasting room offers lovely views beyond the croquet courts. The standard tasting ($20) features four samples.

4401 Slusser Road, Windsor, 707-237-3489, sonomacutrer.com

Williamson Wines

With two locations in downtown Healdsburg, Williamson can offer several tiers of tastings, such as the sampling of four wines with cheese and food bites ($20). The Icon wineand- food pairing ($50); the Meritage Bordeaux tasting paired with food ($75); and the tasting of such Rhônestyle varietals as Grenache, Shiraz, Roussanne, and Viognier ($65) can all be reserved. “We’ve been consistently full at both locations during the week, and weekends are much busier,” says marketing associate Rachel Kualii. “Reservations are necessary because space is limited and in demand.”

134 Matheson St. and 18 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-433-1500, williamsonwines.com

12 New Food Trucks to Check Out Right Now in Sonoma County

By Heather Irwin
A plate of three tacos; shrimp, right, oyster, and calamari, served at the Charro Negro food truck in the Roseland area of Santa Rosa. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Great food trucks are incubators of culinary dreams.

More financially approachable than brick and mortar restaurants for budding food entrepreneurs, mobile kitchens allow for experimentation, adaptation and even a few menu missteps as business plans are ironed out and audiences grow. Intrepid food truck fans are the first to gauge whether your queso birria is truly outstanding or if Filipino-Cajun fusion is actually a good idea.

That’s why we’re excited to share some new (or new-to-you) players, some of our off-the-beaten-path faves and taproom regulars we’ve recently checked out.

Keep in mind that trucks are mobile, and often change locations from day to day and week to week. We’ve included social media links, where you’ll be most likely to find up-to-date info. Also check out local taprooms like Moonlight Brewing, Shady Oak, Cooperage Brewing, Henhouse Brewing and The Block which all regularly host trucks. Have we missed one of your favorites? Let us know!

New Japanese Restaurant in Healdsburg a Top Pick for Sushi

By Heather Irwin
Chef’s omakase nigiri at Asahi Sushi in Healdsburg. (Nobuyuki Asahi)

Any sushi experience can be summed up by a simple equation: seasoning of rice plus quality of fish, divided by proximity to sushi chef equals deliciousness. Works every time, providing you’re not an actual mathematician.

High-quality fresh fish and the deft, careful making of rice are critical. But the farther you get from the hands making your nigiri (sushi rice plus fish) or sashimi (just the fish), the less perfect the experience. Sushi is a time-honored craft, not assembly-line fast-food.

That’s why grocery store or takeout sushi pales in comparison to what you get sitting at a sushi bar. And it’s why, in times like these, starting with pristine fish and well-made rice matter even more, especially if you have a mean craving for some top-notch sushi.

Nobuyuki Asahi, who grew up in Japan and opened Asahi Sushi & Kitchen in Healdsburg last November, gets it. Asahi’s grandparents worked at the famed Toyosu fish market in Tokyo, where Asahi spent many hours as a child.

“Since I was a kid, I was in the fish market. You could say I lived with the fish,” he said.

That’s why he insists on both local and imported Japanese fish, mostly seasonal, for his restaurant. The difference in his delicate hamachi, buttery tuna, creamy scallops and velvety Mendocino uni make Asahi one of my top five in Sonoma County, in the company of Sake 107, Hana Japanese, Sushi Kosho and Shige. And that’s only having had takeout during shelter-in-place, which adds both time and transport to the sushi.

What first alerted me to Asahi’s restaurant was a personal note from an Asahi fan who said the sushi was as good as they’d had in Japan. That’s a tall order. But biting into at the careful cuts and precise presentation of a well-trained chef, it’s clear this isn’t your usual sushi bar. It’s sushi heaven.

Asahi’s menu, however, isn’t just raw fish. The kitchen features crossover favorites including light tempura, chicken karaage, teriyaki and both udon and soba noodle soup. We recommend the vegetable curry, which Asahi makes in-house. Don’t expect an Indian curry; this is a simpler sort of curried gravy that’s more nuanced and authentically Japanese. Hamachi collar (or kama) is a special treat, one of the prized sections of meat from just behind the gills. Bon Appétit magazine calls kama “the spareribs of the ocean,” which is apt.

I’ll mention a curated list of American-style rolls with fried shrimp and sauces, along with a “real” California roll featuring snow crab, “traditional” rolls with single ingredients (tuna, cucumber or avocado) and hand rolls.

Don’t miss the small pantry, if you head in for pickup. There you can find everything from Kewpie mayo and Japanese candies to soy sauce, sake and seasonings.

Overall, this is real Japanese kitchen cooking, with nigiri, rolls and sashimi worth the trip. Portions are logical rather than ridiculous and use thoughtful, well-curated ingredients.

Best Bets

Takoyaki Ball, $6: These didn’t survive the trip home, meaning I ate them all during the drive. They are a sort of round pancake filled with octopus and vegetables and slathered with a reasonable amount of mayo sauce. Dangerously delicious.

Carpaccio, $15: It’s like sashimi light; choose from hamachi, salmon, albacore or scallop with a light yuzu (citrus) and soy vinaigrette.

Sashimi Appetizer, $18: A good deal for 10 pieces of perfectly balanced raw fish (no rice). Sashimi can be a pitfall at lesser restaurants, where fish has been frozen and thawed so many times it becomes a chewy sponge. Asahi’s, however, was fresh, clean and delicious.

Chicken Karaage, $9: Though the light rice flour breading doesn’t hold up exceptionally well for takeout, we love that you can choose thigh or breast, and the spicy-tart mayo sauce is crave-worthy.

Japanese Vegetable Curry, $15: Grilled cucumber, squash, carrots and Brussels sprouts are set on a bed of rice with lightly spiced curry gravy, Japanese style. Warming, comforting and great the next day.

Omakase Nigiri, $40: “Chefs Choice” is always the way to go at a sushi bar, if you’re up for adventure. Honestly, omakase is the only way I’ve learned that raw ama ebi (spot prawns) and Hokkaido hotate (scallops from the best spot — Hokkaido) are insanely good. You really can’t go wrong with any of the nigiri or sashimi, which include several types of tuna, salmon, yellowtail, crab legs and Spanish mackerel. Snappers, Arctic char and uni are frequent daily specials.

Tamago Nigiri, $6: This is not your usual overly sweet, overly chewy factory-made omelet. These are fluffy and savory, with a slightly browned edge and a dash of shrimp paste. Impossible to resist.

Rainbow Roll, $14: Tuna, salmon, avocado and shrimp top a simple California roll. A crowd-pleaser.

Tsukemono Moriawase, $7: I judge a Japanese kitchen by the pickled veggies they offer. These often alien-looking bits of cucumber, daikon, plum, garlic, carrot, eggplant or ginger offer balance to the meal. Asahi’s were a solid mix that included pickled daikon, narazuke and garlic. Not my absolute favorites, but still, an important addition.
 
Asahi Sushi and Kitchen: 335 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-395-0487. Order online at asahisushiandkitchen.com. Open 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 — 8 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and noon to 7 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Crab Sandwiches and More: Where to Eat on the Sonoma Coast

By Heather Irwin
Buttery Dungeness crab sandwich from Ginochio’s Restaurant in Bodega Bay. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)

Finally! Dungeness crabbers are now out in full force and these sweet, delicious little crustaceans are ready for your table. That means you can make a Sunday trip to Bodega Bay to grab the freshest creatures that have gone from crab pot to boiling pot in a matter of hours. Not days. Or even worse, weeks or months in a freezer.

It’s worth the journey to the coast not just for fresh crab but for all the tasty goodness along the way, and to directly support fishermen (and women) who have been hit hard by the long delay to crab season.

Bite Club spent most of Sunday afternoon winding our way around the area, eating some pretty dang good seafood. Here’s what you can’t miss.

Carol Anello's clam chowder at Spud Point Crab Company on Bodega Bay. (John Burgess / Press Democrat)
Carol Anello’s clam chowder at the Spud Point Crab Company in Bodega Bay. (John Burgess)

Ginochio’s Kitchen: Hello to my new favorite Dungeness crab sandwich. Though I usually prefer a soft roll with crab meat nestled within, Ginochio’s buttery, griddled slices of white bread hold huge chunks of freshly picked crab and a slice of melted cheese. It’s a messy affair and resplendently rich, so you could probably split one with a friend or take some home for later, especially since the chowder here is required. We love the soft scallops and clams dotted throughout the chowder, and the big plus is that seafood outweighs potatoes. It’s one of the best chowders on the coast. Next time we’ll definitely try the caramel bacon monkey bread. Plus, they have some great wines, beer and cider, including Claypool Cellars, that are hard to find elsewhere. 1410 Bay Flat Road, Bodega Bay, 707-377-4359, ginochioskitchen.com

Anello Family Crab and Seafood: Follow the bright orange crab signs to this dock-to-table family crabbing operation. Though we usually hit up Spud Point first, we decided to try this restaurant pop-up and crab boil instead. Giant live crabs are pulled out of the tank and immediately cooked and put on ice. We’ve never had a crab this fresh, sweet and delicious, ever. Ever. Cooked crab runs for about $12.50 a pound, which isn’t the cheapest, but it’s worth every penny. After a giant crab sandwich, we weren’t hungry for their hot food, but a take-out window serves chowder, sandwiches and more. Weekends only. 1820 Westshore Road, Bodega Bay, 707-232-8002, anellofamilyseafood.com

Spud Point: Always jammed, always great. A crab sammie on a soft roll and chowder comes with plenty of garlicy goodness. Owned by Tony and Carol Anello. 1910 Westshore Road, Bodega Bay, 707-875-9472, spudpointcrabco.com

Fisherman’s Cove: Barbecue oysters are always my favorite here, but their crab sandwich on toasted ciabatta is another must-have. 1850 Bay Flat Road, Bodega Bay, 707-377-4238, fishermanscovebodegabay.com

Fishetarian Fish Market: Best fish and chips, according to my dad. So there you go. They also have crab cakes, tacos and whole Dungeness crab with melted butter ready for eating. Don’t miss the super-fresh poke and rockfish ceviche. 599 Highway 1 S., Bodega Bay, 707-875-9092, fishetarianfishmarket.com

Huria’s: On the docket for this weekend is Huria’s, best known for their wood-fired Napoletana pizzas that come in flavors so dreamy you’ll have a hard time choosing. Start with the Margherita, the standard of any great pizzaiolo, with simple San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, basil, oregano and olive oil. Move on to the Bodega, with Bechamel sauce, clams, mozzarella and garlic and the Chateau Rouge with Havarti, fresh mozzarella, smoked and caramelized onions, cremini mushrooms, Parmesan and dried herbs with garlic oil. There’s plenty more to love, including house-smoked salmon on sourdough toast, wood-fired butternut squash with ricotta and octopus with caramelized tomato salsa. Takeout only. Inside the Pelican Plaza, 1400 N. Highway 1, Bodega Bay, 707-377-4721, hurias.com

Now that we’re in the clear for more outdoor dining, stay tuned for even more coastal eating adventures.

How to Do Wine and Chocolate the Sonoma Way on Valentine’s Day

By Linda Murphy

Red wine with chocolate for Valentine’s Day: What could go wrong? A lot, actually.

Gifting wine and chocolate to a treasured one is impressively generous and traditionally romantic. But drinking a Sonoma dry red wine with high-quality dark chocolate can take all the helium out of the heart-shaped balloon attached to the basket. The natural bitterness and tannins in each can create a clash of titans in the mouth. So best to share, not pair, cabernet sauvignon and chocolate.

“People like wine, and people like chocolate, thinking that they go together,” said Ron Washam, who retired after working 19 years as sommelier at Pacific Dining Car, one of Los Angeles’ finest restaurants until it closed in 2020. Now a wine educator at Rodney Strong Vineyards in Healdsburg, Washam is blunt about his disdain for pairing chocolate with the dry red wines produced in California.

“The typical advice is to make sure the wine is as sweet as the chocolate, and that’s fine,” he explained. “But you still have to deal with the bitterness in both.”

Washam says that sweet, fortified red wines, such as port (he mentions Rodney Strong’s True Gentleman’s Port), can work well with a 70% dark chocolate. The bitterness in the chocolate offsets the sweetness of the port; mature ports, at least 10 years of age, typically have a nutty, dried-fruit character that complements dark chocolate with similar flavors.

“But for red table wines, the pairing with chocolate seems forced,” he said. “Pairings are supposed to make the food taste more interesting and the wine taste better. It’s better to enjoy the chocolate, and enjoy the wine separately.”

Of course, the best matches of wine and food are the ones you like. There are no rules for pairing, just suggestions and opinions. Yet when it comes to Valentine’s Day and our infatuation with wine and chocolate on that holiday, consider the advice of Washam and others who want you to experience peak moments of enjoying both: Try them separately.

Here are a few more suggestions.

A port maker’s perspective: Bill and Caryn Reading, Sonoma Portworks, Petaluma

Twenty-five years ago, Bill Reading realized that while his port-style red wines complemented chocolate, they weren’t drop-dead perfect with the finest-quality cacao dark chocolate. So the Sonoma Portworks’ founder/winemaker infused one of his local ports with natural chocolate flavoring and voilà, DECO was created. It’s an 18% alcohol, spirit-fortified dessert wine ($17 for 375 ml) with a subtle yet distinguishable dark chocolate note that accents the blueberry, black cherry and espresso notes of the wine and ties it to chocolate.

Purists will object, but fans of chocolate-flavored wines such as DECO are legion. Just ask the tasting room managers at Trentadue Winery in Geyserville and Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery in Healdsburg, who sell impressive amounts of dessert wines with chocolaty notes gained from flavor infusions. Trentadue’s Chocolate Amore Port ($20) is made from merlot grapes fortified with neutral grape spirits and finished with chocolate flavoring. Ferrari-Carano’s Baci ($25) is a late-harvest zinfandel with dark-chocolate essence added before bottling.

Sonoma Portworks Petite Sirah Port with Coco Tutti truffles. (Amy McElroy)
Sonoma Portworks Petite Sirah port with Coco Tutti truffles. (Amy McElroy)

Sonoma Portworks’ wide range of port-style wines (plus sherry and grappa) offer something for everyone with a sweet tooth and a desire to match wine with dessert. ARIS ($18), for example, is a blend of zinfandel, grenache and alicante bouchet grown in Southern California’s Temecula Valley, where warm days during the growing season produce ultra-ripe grapes that take well to a supplemental addition of distilled spirits. The resulting alcohol is 18%, with more than 7% residual sugar.

Sonoma Portworks, 613 Second St., Petaluma, 707-769-5203, portworks.com

Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery, 8761 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-6700, ferrani-carano.com

Trentadue Winery, 19170 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-433-3104, trentadue.com

A restaurateur perspective: Sondra Bernstein, the girl & the fig in Sonoma; the fig cafe in Glen Ellen

Sondra Bernstein, owner of two of Sonoma Valley’s finest restaurants, each with heavy leanings toward serving wines made from Rhone Valley grapes, confessed that red wine with chocolate is not her favorite pairing.

“We always have a chocolate dessert on the menu because a lot of people really want that with their meal,” she said. “But pairing chocolate with wine is difficult. I prefer to serve Banyuls, a fortified grenache (from the Roussillon region of France) that has a lot of sweetness, and we always have a bottle at the restaurants. For a locally made wine with chocolate, I like Loxton Cellars Sonoma Valley Port ($30), a fortified syrah. For big, fruity wines, I’m tempted to add some fruit to a chocolate dessert to bridge the flavors with the wine.”

Her chocolate and salted fig caramel trifle is a keen match for the Loxton port. “Portlandia” fans will understand: Just put a fig on it to make a better match.

the girl & the fig, 110 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-938-3634, thegirlandthefig.com

the fig cafe, 3690 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-938-2130, thefigcafe.com

Loxton Cellars, 11466 Dunbar Road, Glen Ellen, 707-935-7221, loxtonwines.com

A winemaker perspective: Kathleen Inman, Inman Family Wines, Santa Rosa

“I love chocolate, but I’m not a big fan of chocolate with wine,” said Kathleen Inman, owner and winemaker at her Russian River Valley winery. “Chocolate accentuates the tannins in red wine and has fats that coat the palate, changing the wine’s texture and astringency. I want people to taste my wine for the wine; then they can taste the wine with chocolate and see for themselves. They’re often surprised at the difference.”

One particular chocolate, however, works splendidly with Inman’s OGV Estate Pinot Noir ($73), she said. It’s made by Jeff and Susan Mall of Volo Chocolate in Windsor. “Their Volo dark milk chocolate bar with dried figs (and almonds and hazelnuts) mirrors the earthy character of OGV,” Inman explained. “In tastings I do, guests taste a trio of wines, then taste them with the Volo bar. The caramelized sweetness of the fig seems to be a nice pairing with the chocolate, which also has sea salt and cinnamon.”

Inman Family Wines, 3900 Piner Road, Santa Rosa, 707-293-9576, inmanfamilywines.com

A chocolate maker’s perspective: Jeff and Susan Mall, Volo Chocolate, Windsor

Jeff and Susan Mall, who owned Zin restaurant in Healdsburg for a decade before decamping to Mexico to develop culinary programs, became interested in Mexican cacao beans and the chocolate made from them. They returned to Sonoma County in 2016 and founded Volo, using their chefs’ minds to include sea salt, cinnamon, New Mexico chiles, candied orange peel, olive oil and other nontraditional ingredients that add savoriness and flavor balance to their bars.

“A pinch of sea salt pulls out the other flavors and lowers the sugar content and bitterness of chocolate,” Jeff Mall said. “Wineries seem to like the result.”

The Malls have found regular customers in several local wine producers. Inman Family, Medlock Ames, Papapietro Perry and others sell Volo bars (about $8 each) in their tasting rooms, tuck them into wine club shipments and use them in virtual tastings. Volo flavors include Deep Dark, Chocolate Orange, Dark Cream Caramel Crunch and Dark Cream Mexicali, made with chiles and dried cherries.

“Even though we owned a restaurant named Zin and were known for the zinfandels on our wine list, we’ve found the varietal doesn’t pair well with our chocolate,” Jeff said. “Pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon seem to be the most successful reds with dark chocolate.”

Chocolate creations, including a life-size chocolate wine bottle, from Fleur Sauvage in Windsor. (Chris Hardy/Sonoma Magazine)
Chocolate creations from Fleur Savage in Windsor. (Chris Hardy / Sonoma Magazine)

The Malls make chocolate; other Sonoma confectioners purchase chocolate, such as Vahlrona from France, and create truffles and bonbons from it, adding their own flavors and artistic touches.

One of the newest and most sophisticated chocolatiers in Sonoma County is Fleur Sauvage Chocolates. Owners Robert and Tara Nieto add ganaches and other fillings that, depending on the ingredients, can turn tannic dark chocolate into a more wine-friendly mate. Fleur Sauvage also sells a goof-proof Valentine’s Day gift: a full-size chocolate wine bottle filled with truffles ($60). Save the actual wine for another date.

Volo Chocolate, 707-536-6764, volochocolate.com. Purchase online and at Oliver’s Markets in Santa Rosa, Cotati and Windsor; Miracle Plum in Santa Rosa and Big John’s Market and Russian River Tea Co. in Healdsburg.

Fleur Sauvage Chocolates, 707-235-8679, fleursauvagechocolates.com. Purchase online and look for Fleur Sauvage at farmers markets.

Straight Out of The Jar: Sonoma Chefs Are Cooking Up Addictive Pantry Items

By Dana Rebmann

There’s no denying it — we eat well in Wine Country. Whether dining outdoors or picking up take out, our local restaurants have continued to wow us during the pandemic. Even on those days when we’re trying to make magic happen in our own kitchens, we can turn to some of our favorite local chefs for inspiration — and a little help.

Chefs like Sondra Bernstein, Duskie Estes and Liza Hinman are busy creating pantry items such as olive oil, barbecue sauce, jams and salted fig caramel that help us all look good in the kitchen. Click through the above gallery for details. And remember: Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. These days, every home cook deserves some extra love.